HISTORY AWESOME KYIV 8

The Act of Dec- laration of In- dependence of Ukraine es- tablished Ukraine as an independent state

Independence Day Independence day is celebrated on August 24th to commemorate Ukraine’s 1991 Declaration of Independence

Leonid Kravchuk The Act of Declaration of Independence of Ukraine was adopt- served ed by Ukrainian Parliament on August 24th 1991, establishing as Independent Ukraine’s first Ukraine as an independent state. On August 24th, Parliament President, from December called for an independence referendum to support the declara- 5th 1991, until his resigna- tion. The resulting referendum on December 1st 1991 was un- tion on July 19th equivocal — more than 90 per cent of Ukrainians voted in fa- 1994 vor of Independence with a high voter turnout of 82 per cent. Today, Ukraine’s Independence Ukraine had sought independence from the Soviet Un- takes on new meaning. Its cen- ion for decades and by the late 1980s, calls for democratic turies long fight Independence Day is Ukraine’s most popular holiday reform were overpowering. Several movements buoyed these for independ- and Kyiv is a great place to take it all in. Put on a vyshyvan- ence continues aims. The Ukrainian Miner’s Strikes between 1989 and 1990, with Russia’s ka (traditional embroidered shirt), drape yourself in blue invasion of East- and the Revolution on the Granite (also known as the Student ern Ukraine and yellow and head to Khreshchatyk for open air concerts, and its annexa- Revolution) in 1990 supported the cause of independence. tion of Crimea parades and other festivities! HISTORY AWESOME KYIV 10

Euromaidan Ukraine’s Revolution of Dignity — a political, social and cultural transformation

Kyiv’s “Maidan Nezalezhnosti” (Independence Square) Serhiy Nigoy- is a square — a meeting place to stroll, flirt, gawk and de- man rights and profound economic mismanagement led an was an Ar- bate. It has long been the focal point for numerous protests to calls for President Yanukovitch’s resignation. Through menian-Ukrain- ian activist. He and is quite simply, the centre of Ukraine’s political conscious- the cold winter months, Euromaidaners as they came to be was the first protestor killed ness. It was the site of mass protests against President Kuch- called, set up camp, barricades, kitchens, medical services, by shooting during the Hrushevskoho ma in 2001 and the Orange Revolution in 2004. an ‘open university’ and even a library to support the cause. riots in January Euromaidan gave At the end of November 2013, President Yanukovitch way to many Events came to a head at the end of January when several cultural initiatives. reneged on a promised trade agreement with the Europe- Among them protestors were killed. In the following month, more blood an Union, sparking a peaceful protest movement against ‘Artists Support was spilled — the regime’s brutal Berkut (Eagle) special forc- Ukraine,’ this hasty reversal. A subsequent violent crackdown on peace- aimed at turning es and government snipers killed dozens of men and women international ful protestors (along with the passing of draconian anti-pro- attention towards and wounded thousands. the current situa- test legislation) cemented broad scale support for political tion in Ukraine At the end of February, President Yanukovitch gave an ul- change. The scope of the protests evolved over the coming timatum to the protest movement — “pack up and leave weeks and millions of Ukrainians came out on the streets the Maidan.” But the Maidaners remained stalwart. They wer- to demand a democratic government. Widespread grievances en’t going anywhere. The deadline to leave came and went. Yanu-

of government corruption, abuse of power, violation of hu- TOP PHOTO: OLEKSANDR KURMAZ, BOTTOM PHOTO: OLEKSANDR KURMAZ, RIGHT PHOTO: DMYTRO LARIN kovitch fled to Russia and a provisional government was formed. CULTURE AWESOME KYIV 14

Oleksandr Murashko One of Ukraine’s most internationally acclaimed painters — known for his vivid

impressionism and compelling portraiture Oleksandr Murashko, Winter, National Art Museum of Ukraine, Kyiv Oleksandr Murashko — known for his colourful impressionist Oleksandr Mu- rashko received Oleksandr Murashko, Parisian cafe, works of art — had a difficult upbringing. Born out of wed- widespread inter- Kharkiv Art Museum national acclaim lock and unwanted, he lived with his grandmother in a small for his 1906 work “Carousel,” which town in Chernihiv region for his first seven years. He was then was awarded to paint. Gathering his courage, he asked Professor Adri- Murashko returned to the care of his mother, who had married the own- a golden medal yan Prakhov for help. Prakhov had noticed the boy’s potential was one of found- at the Munich ers of the Ukrain- er of an icon-painting workshop. This connection opened International during his time in the Cathedral, and together with Vasnetsov ian Academy Exhibition. of Arts (the mod- the world of art to the young Oleksandr. When the family This recogni- and Nesterov, helped Oleksandr get established in his chosen ern National tion led to invita- Academy of Fine moved to Kyiv, Oleksandr witnessed the painting of St.Volod- tions to the top profession. Art and Architec- ymyr Cathedral. The work of the great masters — Vasnetsov, exhibitions across Murashko’s talents were widely recognized. He studied ture). To enjoy Mu- Europe rashko’s works, Nesterov, Pymonenko — made a deep impression on him, at the St. Petersburg Academy and was a student in Ilya Re- visit the National Art Museum and he decided to dedicate his life to art. His stepfather, how- pin’s studio. He worked as a trainee artist in Paris and Munich of Ukraine www. ever, had a different plan for him: that Oleksandr continue and his work was exhibited across Europe. Murashko settled namu.kiev.ua icon painting for the family business. back in Kyiv where his artwork continued to evolve. He is particu- But Oleksandr could not be held back. He fled from home larly known for his compelling portraiture. Today, you can find and wandered the streets of Kyiv, taking up any opportunity his work exhibited in some of the world’s leading galleries. CULTURE AWESOME KYIV 24

Left: Sviatoslav Richter in the Kyiv Philarmonic, Viktor Marushchenko 1980. Photo: Viktor Marushchenko. Right: Kyiv, Lenin Museum, Enlistment into the This Kyiv and Berlin based photographer Little Octobrists, 1987. Photo: Viktor. Marushchenko is widely acclaimed — featured in solo and group exhibits around the world

Top: Viktor In 2004, Vik- Viktor Marushchenko’s family moved to Kyiv from Novosybirsk Marushchenko. a trip to Switzerland, the Director of Lausanne’s Musée de tor Marushchenko in 1951, when he was just five years old. Despite Victor’s long Self-portrait l’Élysée (Museum of Photography) saw Victor’s photos and sug- founded a School of Photography held interest in photography, he didn’t think that his hob- gested that he should participate in a festival of Eastern in Kyiv: www. marushchenko. by could actually be a career until one of his photographs European photography in 1990. It was an auspicious meeting. com was published in Culture and Life in 1975. With this accom- The festival launched Marushchenko’s career and he started plishment behind his belt, Victor switched tracks — he left receiving invitations to exhibitions around the world. his career as an engineer behind and started a degree in jour- Atmospheric desolate Chornobyl landscapes, scenes nalism. At the same time he persistently submitted his works from the life of Donbass inhabitants, urban storylines to various editorial boards. His tenacity paid off and he was of- from the outskirts of Kyiv are some of the themes featured fered a press photographer position at Soviet Culture. in his work. The way Marushchenko portrays Ukrainian re- Working in the newspaper allowed Marushchenko to trav- ality is reserved, yet vivid. His contemplative shots make el extensively and build his photography portfolio. During a strong impression. FOOD AWESOME KYIV 30 “Kyiv Perepichka” is open every day from 8.30 a.m. 9 p.m.

Kyiv Perepichka At the crossing of Bohdan Khmelnitsky and Khreshchatyk Streets, you’ll always find a queue for Kyiv’s legendary fast food

In Ukrainian national cuisine, on the go. The vendor’s thin paper perepichka is a delicacy of fried napkins — now, as ever — do little sough dough. Kyiv Perepichka takes to keep hands clean from the deep this mouth-watering treat and adds fried delicacy. a twist — the dough surrounds Over the past 30 years, the cen- a sausage and is deep-fried. It’s Ky- tre of Kyiv has changed a lot. There iv’s take on a sausage role. are so many new cafés, restaurants Kyiv Perepichka first opened and fast food outlets, and yet, people in Soviet times, in 1981. The greasy, still flock to Kyiv Perepichka. If you’re delicious snacks were sold out looking to try this great combina- of a small kiosk in a prime loca- tion of national dish and classic tion in front of the Central Universal hotdog, grab a spot in the line near Store at 3a Lenin street, (now known Kyiv Perepichka’s window. And don’t as Bohdan Hmelnytskyi Street). worry — the line moves fast. Kyivans took an immediate liking The hard-working, experienced staff to the tasty, nourishing and cheap ensure that your wait is rarely longer

perepichka, which could be eaten than 15–20 minutes. PHOTO: DMYTRO SHYTKO PLACES AWESOME KYIV 45

“Mother Motherland” Monument A massive female warrior stands guard over Kyiv

On Victory Day of May 9th, 1981, the General Secretary of the “Mother Moth- erland” is a part Communist Party — Leonid Brezhnev — unveiled “Mother of the Museum of the Great Pa- Motherland.” Original plans would have seen this monument triotic War com- plex found at 44 gold-plated. But, even the Soviet fondness for monumental- Ivana Mazepy ism had its limits, so the sculpture was fashioned instead out Street of stainless steel. Separate parts weighting several dozens of tons each were welded at the Paris Commune plant in Kyiv. In the end, the sculpture came to weigh around 450 tons. Together with its pedestal, it reaches to 102 meters. The steel woman brandishes a 9-ton sword in her right hand and 13- ton and 13×8-meter shield in her left. Two elevators function inside of the sculpture. You can also climb the stairs up to the sword and shield where you’ll find an observation deck. “Mother Motherland” faces towards Moscow. Kyivans joke that she defends against Russians, a joke that has taken on

new meaning during this time of war. PHOTO: DMYTRO SHYTKO PLACES AWESOME KYIV

46 was meant to be constructed near- You can visit the Crematori- by, so as to mirror the bas-relief. um today on the Baikova Mount However, in 1982, Soviet authorities in the western part of the well- ordered the project (which was near- known Baikove Cemetery — Kyiv’s ly completed at the time) to be necropolis. Ukraine’s most famous drowned in concrete. The possibility scholars, scientists, artists, poets, of reviving this masterpiece is still sportsmen and public figures are under discussion. buried at the Cemetery.

Ada Rybachuk and Volodymyr Melnyk also designed an incredible mosaic panel at Kyiv’s Central Bus Station and the Palace of Children and Youth

Crematorium Historian and statesman Mykhai- lo Hrushevskyi, poetess Lesya Ukrainka, and politician Vo- With its bold futurist design, you won’t see lodymyr Shcherbytsky were laid to rest at Baikove Cemetary. Though another building like it it may seem somewhat morbid to visit a cemetery, its intricately carved headstones and sculptures There were plans to build this cre- inseparable, both in life and work; make for a fascinating stroll matorium in the 1960s, but they they even adopted a joint signa- were continually delayed so ture, ‘ARVM.’ Upon researching as to avoid any association with everything there was to know about the infamous furnaces of fascist similar buildings in the history concentration camps during WWII, of world architecture, the young which remained a close memo- artists created a striking design — ry for many Kyivans. Eventually, a genuine ‘Celestial Temple’ as they the project was completed in 1975, called it. Between the cemetery based on a modern, futurist design and the crematorium, Rybachuk by Ada Rybachuk and Volodymyr and Melnychenko constructed Melnychenko — the finished com- a unique bas-relief Wall of Com- plex is called the Park of Commem- memoration, 213 meters long and 4 oration. to 14 meters tall. It took the artists Rybachuk and Melnychenko 13 years to perfect the composi- met during their studies at the Kyiv tion, which symbolizes the victory

Institute of Art, and soon became of life over death. An artificial lake BURLAKA OLEKSANDR PHOTO: PLACES AWESOME KYIV

You’ll note The monument, 57 that Ukrain- with its out- ian workers door stand seat- in the bronze stat- ing nearby, ue are depicted is a favorite place as smaller in stat- for concerts ure than their and festivals. It of- Russian coun- fers a great stop- terparts — a jab ping place to take at Ukrainian ‘in- in the views over feriority’ the Dnipro

Friendship of Nations Arch This massive titanium arch in the centre of the city is an ever-present reminder of millions of people — a precur- of Peoples along with a granite stele, of Ukraine’s complicated history with Russia sor to the more deadly Famine-Holo- depicting the participants of the Pe- domor of 1932–1933. The Ukrain- reyaslav Council of 1654 (the Council At Khreshchatyk Park, a mas- tracted wars from 1917–1921, be- ian Soviet Socialist Republic convened Bohdan Khmelnytsky sive titanium arch looms over tween Ukrainian forces representing was formed in 1922 and became to discuss Cossack Hetmanate the right bank of the Dnipro. the Ukrainian National Republic one of the constituent republics and Muscovy relations). This monument was opened in 1982 that declared independence in 1918, of the Soviet Union. In Soviet propa- Although Russia and Ukraine on the anniversary of the Octo- along with other Ukrainian gov- ganda, this occupation was always have always been intimately ber Revolution by the First Sec- ernments, and the Bolshevik army depicted as an act of selfless friend- bound, it is unclear what the fu- retary of the Communist Party of occupation from Russia. It took ship on the part of the Russian peo- ture may hold. Today, as this text of Ukraine, Volodymyr Shcherbyt- three attempts to establish Soviet ple. But in fact, it was a ‘unification’ is being written, Russia has an- sky. It was meant to formally com- rule in Ukraine. borne of war, famine and death. nexed Crimea and invaded the east memorate the ‘unification’ of Rus- In 1921–1923, as a result of dra- The monument also includes of Ukraine: Russian forces are sia and Ukraine, and the Friendship conian grain requisitions imposed a large bronze statue of Rus- killing Ukrainians in an undeclared of Nations. But this ‘unification’ by the Bolsheviks, a colossal famine sian and Ukrainian workers holding war. Ukrainians, now as ever, fight

was in fact achieved through pro- broke out that claimed the lives PHOTO: DMYTRO SHYTKO up the Soviet Order of Friendship for their independence. NATURE AWESOME KYIV 65

From Obolon to Pushcha-Vodytsia, you The tram route Kontrakto- can take a retro-tram for group excur- va Square-Pushcha-Vodytsia is the long- Pushcha-Vodytsia Tram sions. The trams are identical to the ones est in Kyiv — almost 20 kilometers used in Kyiv in 1892, both inside and out. long. The ride takes one hour and 12 The retro-tram was a labour of love; tram minutes to complete and makes 40 stops car enthusiasts refurbished it from old along the way In just one hour you can go from a residential spare parts in 2006 area in the heart of Kyiv to an idyllic forest — just hop on tram route twelve

Kyivans love to get out and enjoy the countryside and Push- The new rail route made travel to the area more comfort- cha Vodytsia is a favorite destination. Its dense forests, located able. But it also proved to be a critical infrastructure link on the northwestern outskirts of the capital have long been during the First and Second World Wars; the tram was used a place to relax and enjoy the outdoors. During Kyivan Rus, to transport wounded soldiers, and over the cold dead of win- the area was a favorite hunting ground for princes. By the end ter, delivered firewood for heating. of the 19th century, it was developed into a recreational There is yet another tram route you can use to access area. People started to build dachas and recreation facilities Pushcha-Vodytsia: the number seven, which starts in Obolon, on the land. This forced municipal authorities to tackle the is- at Taras Shevchenko Square. This tram takes only half an hour sue of transport and communication. In 1900, rails were laid to get to the final stop — a cozy park with huge oak trees between Kontraktova Square and Pushcha-Vodytsia, and a so- and pines, a clear pond, sports grounds and beaches. No need called ‘locomobile’ — a steam tram — was established; after to be in a hurry to get there. The tram ride through the majes-

four years it was upgraded to an electrical tram. PHOTO: DMYTRO SHYTKO tic forest is a pleasure unto itself. SPORTS AWESOME KYIV 73

Kachalka This outdoor gym in Kyiv’s HydroPark is “the most hardcore in Europe”

“Kachalka” gained If Mad Max had a gym, it would look like Kachalka. The gym notoriety when is located in Hydropark — a waterfront entertainment park Ukrainian pho- tographer Kyrylo with beaches and attractions on Kyiv’s Venetian and Dolobet- Holovchenko published a collec- skyi islands in the Dnipro River. These islands have a long tion of photographs titled “Kachalka. history with settlements predating Kyivan-Rus. During Muscle Beach” the Second World War the islands were laid to waste, and af- dedicated to this lo- cation ter the war it was decided that they should be transformed Today in “Kachalka” into a recreation area for Kyivans. The park formally opened you’ll find over 150 fitness machines For many years, in the 1960s and was instantly popular. spread over 10,000 planks were added — and Kachalka gym was born. “Kachalka” lost The park was improved by Yuriy Kuk, a Professor of Mathe- square meters This outdoor, cobbled-together gym has been added fitness machines to thieves, who stole matics, who worked in the Cybernetics Institute at the Nation- You can take to over the years and just keeps growing in popularity. Anyone parts to sell as scrap the Metro metal. To prevent this, al Academy of Sciences. Together with Polish gymnast Kazimir to the Park — can train here for free. It attracts schoolchildren, pensioners, the machines have Hydropark been fixed on the spot Yagelski, he started to add gym equipment. It all began with station is located men, women, pros and amateurs… pretty much everyone. with chains, giving a bar set between two trees. Later old tires, fragments of pipes, on Venetian Island Its outdoor location makes it an ideal place for body sculptors the site even more of a post-apocalyptic look

radiators, automotive parts from waste dumps, and wooden PHOTO: DMYTRO SHYTKO, ST.PIXANEWS.COM to show off, and gawkers to gawk.