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004_9781118288665-ch01.indd4_9781118288665-ch01.indd 1 77/9/12/9/12 88:20:20 PPMM 1 an Francisco’s reputation as a rollicking city where almost anything goes dates back to the boom-or-bust days of the gold rush. It’s always been this way: This city is so beautiful, exciting, diverse, and cosmopolitan that you can always fi nd something new to see and do no matter if it’s Syour 1st or 50th visit. Oh, and bring a warm jacket: Bob Hope once remarked that is the city of four seasons—every day.

Things to Do Consistently ranked as America’s Favorite City, San Francisco never ceases to entertain. Enjoy the cool blast of salty air as you stroll across the Golden Gate. Stuff yourself with dim sum in Chinatown. Browse the second- hand shops along Haight Street. Recite poetry in a North Beach coffeehouse. Stroll Ocean Beach, skate through , ride the cable cars to Fisherman’s Wharf, tour a Victorian mansion, explore , go The Best Only-in–San Francisco Experiences The Best Only-in–San Francisco Experiences to a Giants ball game—the list is endless.

Shopping Oh baby, start polishing that credit card. Some of our favorites include strolling the hip boutiques in Hayes Valley, gourmet delicacies at the Ferry Building Marketplace, the wow factor of Union Square and West- fi eld San Francisco Centre, real vinyl at Amoeba Records on Haight Street, and the weird-to-wonderful shopping bazaar that is Chinatown. Nightlife & Entertainment It’s true: San Francisco sells more theater tick- ets per capita than any other major city in America. We love to watch our recy- cled Broadway musicals at the A.C.T. and transgender tragedies at Theatre Rhinoceros. The San Francisco Symphony, Opera, and Ballet are three great reasons to dress up. Sundays are a Drag (show) at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, while anything goes down at the Endup. Maceo Parker’s playing at Yoshi’s, Stanton Moore is at the Boom Boom Room, and Tainted Love is sold

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO out at Bimbo’s 365 Club. Let’s end the night with a Golden Gate Martini at . Restaurants & Dining With more than 3,500 restaurants in San Francisco, you could eat at a different restaurant every night for 10 years and still not visit them all. Try Afghan, Burmese, Cambodian, Cajun, Moroccan, Persian, Ethiopian— or better yet, follow the street food craze at roaminghunger.com/sf in search of Sam’s Chowdermobile, Chairman Bao, and Waffl e Mania food trucks. THE best ONLY-IN–SAN FRANCISCO EXPERIENCES A Powell–Hyde Cable Car Ride: Skip the less-scenic California line and take the Powell–Hyde cable car down to Fisherman’s Wharf—the ride is worth the wait. When you reach the top of Nob Hill, grab the rail with one hand and hold your camera with the other, because you’re about to see a view of the bay that’ll make you all weepy. See p. 172.

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A world-class bike ride. The Powell–Hyde cable car.

An Adventure at Alcatraz: Even if you loathe tourist attractions, you’ll dig The Best Only-in–San Francisco Experiences Alcatraz. Just looking at the Rock from across the bay is enough to give you the heebie-jeebies—and the park rangers have put together an excellent audio tour with narration by former inmates and guards. Heck, even the boat ride across the bay is worth the price. See p. 168. A Walk or Bike Ride Across the : Don your wind- breaker and walking shoes and prepare for a wind-blasted, exhilarating jour- ney across San Francisco’s most famous landmark. It’s simply one of those things you have to do at least once in your life. See p. 178. A Stroll Through Chinatown: Chinatown is a trip—about as close to experi- encing Asia as you can get without a passport. Skip the ersatz camera and

Alcatraz Island.

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004_9781118288665-ch01.indd4_9781118288665-ch01.indd 3 77/9/12/9/12 88:20:20 PPMM 1 luggage stores and head straight for the food markets, where a cornucopia of critters that you’ll never see at Safeway sit in boxes waiting for the wok. (Is that an armadillo?) Better yet, take one of Shirley Fong-Torres’s Wok Wiz tours of Chinatown (p. 194). A Game at AT&T Park: If it’s baseball season, then you must spend an afternoon or evening watching the National League’s Giants at one of the fi nest ballparks in America. For only $10, you can buy a bleacher seat on the day of a game. Even if the season’s over, you can still take a guided tour of the stadium. See p. 222.

The Best Splurge Hotels The Best Splurge THE best SPLURGE HOTELS

The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco, 600 Stockton St., Nob Hill ( 800/241- 3333 or 415/296-7465; www.ritzcarlton.com), is the sine qua non of luxury hotels, offering near-perfect ser- vice and every possible amenity. Even if you can’t afford a guest room, come for the mind-blowing Sunday brunch. See p. 77. Four Seasons Hotel San Fran- cisco, 757 Market St., south of Market Street (SoMa; 800/ 819-5053 or 415/633-3000; www. fourseasons.com), is the perfect

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO combination of opulence, hipness, and class. We can’t afford it either, but we sure love to hang out at the bar and pretend. See p. 80. The Mandarin Oriental, 222 Sansome St., Financial District ( 800/622-0404 or 415/276- 9888; www.mandarinoriental.com/ The Ritz-Carlton lobby. sanfrancisco), is perched so high above the city that the fog rolls in below you. Take in the view from your glass- wall bathtub. Maybe we really did die and go to heaven? See p. 85. The St. Regis Hotel, 125 Third St., SoMa ( 877/787-3447 or 415/284- 4000; www.stregis.com/sanfrancisco), has these touch-screen remote con- trols that let you operate everything in your room—without leaving your bed. Add a destination restaurant and a fabulous two-fl oor spa, and why would you ever want to leave? See p. 82. THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS The Golden Gate Hotel, 775 Bush St., Union Square ( 800/835-1118 or 415/392-3702; www.goldengatehotel.com), receives nothing but kudos from satisfi ed returning guests. Just 2 blocks from Union Square, this 1913 Edwardian hotel is a charmer and a fantastic value. See p. 74.

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A room at the Hotel Union Square.

Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St., Union Square ( 800/228-8830 or 415/775- The Best Dining Experiences 5000; www.thehoteladagio.com), is far more chic and hip than its category counterparts. The 1929 Spanish Revival building has sexy streamlined rooms swathed in rich spice and earth tones. See p. 65. The Hotel Bohème, 444 Columbus Ave., Nob Hill ( 415/433-9111; www.hotelboheme.com), is the perfect mixture of art, style, class, romance, and location—just steps from the sidewalk cafes of North Beach. If Bette Davis were alive today, this is where she’d stay. See p. 89. Hotel Union Square, 114 Powell St., Union Square ( 415/397-3000; www.hotelunionsquare.com), is an updated classic in an ideal location. A $5-million renovation in 2008 melded contemporary elements with historical San Francisco features dating back to 1915. See p. 70. Laurel Inn, 444 Presidio Ave., Pacifi c Heights ( 800/552-8735 or 415/567-8467; www.thelaurelinn.com), may be off the beaten track, but it’s one of the best affordable, fashionable hotels in the city. Just outside of the southern entrance to the Presidio in the midst of residential Presidio Heights, it’s a chic motel with soothing, contemporary decor and equally calming prices. See p. 91. THE best DINING EXPERIENCES The Best of the City’s Fine Dining: La Folie, 2316 Polk St., Russian Hill ( 415/776-5577), has been the place to go for cuisine at its fi nest since 1988. Celebrity chef Roland Passot never fails to offer his guests a delightfully long, lavish meal. And then there’s Restaurant Gary Danko, 800 North Point St., Fisherman’s Wharf ( 415/749-2060; p. 136), always a sure bet for a perfect contemporary French meal complete with polished service and fl ambéed fi nales. Best Classic San Francisco Dining Experience: The lovable loudmouths working behind the narrow counter of Swan Oyster Depot, 1517 Polk St. ( 415/673-1101), have been satisfying patrons with fresh crab, shrimp, oysters, and clam chowder since 1912. The father of this guide’s author,

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A vendor at Fisherman’s Wharf.

Matthew Poole, doesn’t care much for visiting San Francisco (“Too crowded!”), but he loves having lunch at this beloved seafood institution. See p. 127. Best Dining on Dungeness Crab: Eating fresh Dungeness crabmeat straight from Fisherman’s Wharf seafood vendors’ boiling pots at the corner of Jeffer- son and Taylor streets may be touristy, but it’s the quintessential San Fran- cisco experience. See p. 176. Locals are more apt to go to Swan Oyster Depot. See p. 127.

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO Best Dim Sum Feast: If you like Chinese food in bite-size portions, you’ll love dim sum. At Ton Kiang, 5821 Geary Blvd., the Richmond ( 415/387-8273; p. 165), you’ll be wowed by the variety of dump- lings and mysterious dishes. Don’t worry about the language barrier; just point at what looks good and it will be delivered. For downtown dim sum, the venerable Yank Sing, 101 Spear St. ( 415/957- 9300; p. 119), offers an exotic edi- ble surprise on every cart that’s wheeled to your table. Best Breakfast: We have a tie: Dottie’s True Blue Café, 28 Sixth St. ( 415/885-2767; p. 125), has taken the classic American breakfast to a new level—maybe the best we’ve ever had. Ella’s, 500 Presidio Ave. ( 415/441- 5669; p. 142), is far more yuppie, Swan Oyster Depot.

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Best Funky Atmosphere: That’s an easy one: Tommy’s Joynt, 1101 Geary THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO Blvd. ( 415/775-4216). The interior looks like a Buffalo Bill museum that imploded, the exterior paint job looks like a circus tent on acid, and the huge trays of hofbrau classics will make your arteries harden just by looking at them. See p. 149. Best Family-Style Restaurant: Giant platters of classic Italian food and carafes fi lled with table wine are placed on long wooden tables by motherly waitresses while Sinatra classics play to the festive crowd of contented diners. Welcome to North Beach–style family dining at Capp’s Corner, 1600 Pow- ell St. ( 415/989-2589). See p. 132. Best Surreal Dining Experience: This has to be sitting cross-legged on a pil- low, shoes off, smoking apricot tobacco out of a hookah, eating baba ghanouj, and drinking spiced wine in an exotic Middle Eastern setting while beautiful,

sensuous belly dancers glide across the dining room. Unwind your mind at The Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) Kan Zaman, 1793 Haight St. ( 415/751-9656). See p. 161. Best Wine Country Dining: If you’re a foodie, you already know that one of the top restaurants in the world, the French Laundry, 6640 Washington 1 St. ( 707/944-2380; p. 357), is about 1 ⁄2 hours north of the city in the Wine Country’s tiny town of Yountville. Only die-hard diners need apply: You’ll need to fi ght for a reservation 2 months in advance. A more relaxed alternative is Terra, 1345 Railroad Ave., St. Helena ( 707/963-8931; p. 361), where award-winning chef Hiro Sone shows his culinary creativity and mastery of French, Italian, and Japanese cuisine within a historic fi eld- stone split dining room. THE best THINGS TO DO FOR FREE (OR ALMOST) Meander Along the Marina’s Golden Gate Promenade and . There’s something about strolling the promenade that just feels right. The combination of beach, bay, boats, Golden Gate views, and clean, cool breezes is good for the soul. Don’t miss snacks at the Warming Hut. See p. 202. Wake up with North Beach Coffee. One of the most pleasurable smells of San Francisco is the aroma of roasted coffee beans wafting down Columbus Avenue in the early morning. Start the day with a cup of Viennese on a side- walk table at Caffè Greco, 423 Columbus Ave. ( 415/397-6261), fol- lowed by a walk down Columbus Avenue to the bay. Browse the Haight. Though the power of the fl ower has wilted, the Haight is still, more or less, the Haight: a sort of resting home for aging hippies, ex- Deadheads, skate punks, and an eclectic assortment of young panhandlers. Think of it as a people zoo as you walk down the rows of used-clothing stores, hip boutiques, and leather shops. End the tour with a pitcher of sangria and a plate of mussels at Cha Cha Cha (p. 161), one of our favorite restaurants that’s a bargain to boot.

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You’ll fi nd more frugal tips in Frommer’s San Francisco Free & Dirt Cheap (John Wiley & Sons, Inc.): 1. Tickets to the their demonstrations. Bakery visitors (p. 184; pictured at right) ain’t cheap, can watch the entire baking process but you can climb to the top of the from a 30-foot observation window museum’s 144-foot observation tower along Jefferson Street. for free. And if you can time it right, 3. Hard to fi nd, but worth the effort, is a admission is free the fi rst Tuesday of funky little bar in North Beach called each month. Specs’ (p. 280). It looks like a 2. The Boudin Demonstration Bakery maritime museum that imploded, (p. 172; pictured below) at the Wharf with walls featuring historically has a nifty little free museum hidden eclectic seafaring oddities brought upstairs that explains the symbiotic back by long-dead sailors who relationship between San Francisco dropped in between voyages (dried and its unique sourdough loaf. The whale penis, anyone?). The Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) The Best Things to Do for Free

story and science behind the 4. If you log onto www.calacademy.org/ “mother dough” is fascinating, as are webcams/penguins, you can see what the California Academy of Sciences’ penguins are up to via their PenguinCams, which offer three real-time views of the new penguin exhibit. It’s mesmerizing. 5. If you want to watch a Giants game for free, you can join the “knothole gang” at the Portwalk (located behind right fi eld) to catch a free glimpse of the game through cut-out

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO portholes into the ballpark. In the

Pretend to be a guest at the Palace or Fairmont Hotels. You may not be staying the night, but you can certainly feel like a million bucks in the public spaces at the Palace Hotel (p. 81). The extravagant creation of banker “Bonanza King” Will Ralston in 1875, the Palace Hotel has one of the grand- est rooms in the city: the Garden Court, where you can have high tea under a stained-glass . Running a close second is the magnifi cent lobby at Nob Hill’s (p. 76). Sip a cocktail in the clouds. One of the greatest ways to view the city is from a top-fl oor lounge in hotels such as the Sir Francis Drake (p. 67), the Grand Hyatt San Francisco (p. 62), and the venerable InterContinental Mark Hopkins (p. 77). Drinks aren’t cheap, but considering you’re not pay- ing for the view, it almost seems like a bargain.

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spirit of sharing, Portwalk peekers 7. Every second Thursday of the month, THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO are encouraged to take in only an you can watch free movies in inning or two before giving way to Dolores Park, located at 20th and fellow fans. Dolores streets. Bring a blanket and even your dog if you’d like, as well as 6. Free steak sandwiches! Well, kinda a little cash to buy the world’s best free. Every Monday through Friday, tamales from the Tamale Lady. Morton’s Steakhouse (400 Post St. at Powell St.; 415/986-5830) 8. The Good Vibrations sex-toy shop hosts a happy hour at their BAR (p. 256) on Valencia Street is worth 12•21, where you can stuff yourself visiting just to see their Antique on four Petite Filet Mignon Vibrator Museum. Who knew that Sandwiches at the bar for only $7. vibrators have been around since 1869

and were prescribed by physicians to treat “hysteria”? Fascinating. The Best Outdoor Activities 9. If you’re looking for a buddy to ride bikes with, the 511 Bike Buddy Ridematch Service will pair you up with someone at your skill level at no cost. Log onto www.ridematch.511. org, click on “Bicycling,” then click on “Bike Buddy Matching.” 10. If city life is stressing you out, take some free tai chi lessons. Log onto www.sfnpc.org/tai-chi-in-the-parks for a list of places and times that the free lessons are offered. There’s no need to register; just show up and dress comfortably.

THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES A Day in Golden Gate Park: Exploring Golden Gate Park is an essential part of the San Francisco experience. Its arboreal paths stretch from the Haight all the way to Ocean Beach, offering dozens of fun things to do along the way. Top sights are the , the Japanese Tea Garden, the fabulous de Young Museum (p. 184), and its eco-fabulous cross-concourse neighbor, the California Academy of Sciences (p. 182). The best time to go is Sunday, when main roads in the park are closed to traffi c (rent a bike for the full effect). Toward the end of the day, head west to the beach and watch the sunset. See p. 204. A Walk Along the Coastal Trail: Stroll the forested Coastal Trail from Cliff House to the Golden Gate Bridge, and you’ll see why San Franciscans put up

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The Coastal Trail is steps from the beach.

with living on a fault line. Start at the parking lot just above Cliff House and head north. On a clear day, you’ll have incredible views of the Marin Head- lands, but even on foggy days, it’s worth the trek to scamper over old bunkers and relish the cool, salty air (dress warmly). See “The Presidio & Golden Gate National Recreation Area,” beginning on p. 199, for more on this area. A Wine Country Excursion: It’ll take you about an hour to get there, but once you arrive you’ll want to hopscotch from one winery to the next, per- haps picnic in the vineyards, or have an alfresco lunch The Best Activities for somewhere atmospheric like Families THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO Tra Vigne. And consider this: When the city is fogged in For a list of San Francisco attractions that and cold, Napa and Sonoma appeal to kids of all ages, see the “Especially are almost always sunny and for Kids” box on p. 211 of chapter 6. warm. See chapter 11 for more information. A Climb up or down the Filbert Street Steps: San Francisco is a city of stairways, and the crème de la crème of scenic steps is Filbert Street between Sansome Street and the east side of Telegraph Hill, where steep Filbert Street becomes Filbert Steps, a 377-stair descent that wends its way through fl ower gardens and some of the city’s oldest and most varied housing. It’s a beautiful walk down from , and great exercise going up. THE best OFFBEAT TRAVEL EXPERIENCES A Soul-Stirring Sunday Morning Service at Glide Memorial Church: Every city has churches, but only San Francisco has the Glide. An hour or so with Reverend Cecil Williams and his exuberant gospel choir will surely shake

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beliefs may be—everybody THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO leaves this Tenderloin church spiritually uplifted and slightly misty-eyed. See p. 206. A Cruise Through the Castro: The most populated and fes- tive street in the city is not just for gays and lesbians (though the best cruising in town is right here). Great shops and cafes aside, the best reason to come here is for the people-

watching. If you have time,

catch a fl ick and a live organ performance at the beautiful The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences 1930s Spanish colonial movie palace, the (p. 291). See “Neighborhoods Worth a Visit,” beginning on The Castro Theatre. p. 192, for more info. Skating Through Golden Gate Park on a Weekend: C’mon, when’s the last time you went rollerblading? If you’ve never tried skating before, there’s no better place to learn than on the wide, fl at main street through Golden Gate Park, which is closed to vehicles on Sundays.

Glide Memorial Church.

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Here’s your guide to some of the city’s most curious (and beloved) characters:

Eccentric Oakland resident Frank Chu is like the Waldo of San Francisco protests, if easier to spot: At any protest on Market Street, look for an Asian-American man holding a sign lambasting the "12 Galaxies." Frank believes the galaxies and U.S. presidents owe his family $20 billion. He's spread this message daily since the early 1990s, and his persistence

The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences Travel The Best Offbeat has made him a legend, a meme, the

subject of a Yelp.com page, and the

inspiration for a bar, Twelve Galaxies. The back of his sign is now sponsored various degrees of hunkiness (and by LaughingSquid.com. nakedness) and lots of religious irreverence. Spotting a graffi ti artist at work is rare; you may have more luck fi nding More nudity (there’s no shortage of it a muralist at work in the Mission here if you know where to look): The district. Contact World Naked Bike Ride (pictured (p. 199), which oversees much of the above) takes place around the world mural painting, for more information, twice a year (partially to bring attention and ask if they’ll clue you in on their to the dangers of gas emissions); the painting schedule. Northern Hemisphere date is in mid-March, and the Southern THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO You’ll fi nd a crowd of older Chinese Hemisphere date is in mid-June. San men smoking up a storm and playing Francisco now participates in both, mah-jongg and cards in Portsmouth naturally. Visit www.sfbikeride.org for Square in Chinatown. Try www. specifi c dates, routes, and more. sanfranciscochinatown.com. Head to Golden Gate Park (p. 204) Strictly devout Christians don’t always on a weekend to fi nd lawn-bowlers fi nd this amusing, but every Easter and occasionally an impromptu brings the Hunky Jesus Contest to drum circle. Dolores Park, which combines men of

Catching Big Air in Your Car: Relive Bullitt or The Streets of San Francisco as you careen down the center lane of Gough Street between Ellis and Eddy streets, screaming out “Wooooeee!” Feel the pull of gravity leave you momen- tarily, followed by the thump of the car suspension bottoming out. Wimpier folk can settle for driving down the steepest street in San Francisco: Filbert Street, between Leavenworth and Hyde streets.

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Head to Ocean Beach (p. 217) to faux bush at since 1980, when watch surfers in action, especially on he decided to give up his robot act for weekends. You may hear surfer lingo something more unique. His former similar to this comment posted on collaborator, Gregory Jacobs, is now a www.wannasurf.com: “48 F, cold and rival competitor. Watch video of scary . . . but tubed every once in a startled tourists at http://bit.ly/dArD58. while . . . ice-cream headaches every You’ll meet some of the city’s duck dive . . . what an awesome friendliest foodies at the Saturday break, though.” morning Farmers’ Market at the David Johnson, aka the Bush Man, Ferry Building (p. 175). Nosh on free has been popping out from behind his samples while you chat up the

vendors. Visit Cap’n Mike & Sally in

the outdoor market area for fantastic The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences smoked fi sh; you can take smoked fi sh with you back on a plane as a treat for yourself or as a gift for your housesitter. Visit www.holysmoked salmon.com.

The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence (www.thesisters.org; pictured at left) appear at almost every public event to give their blessing—though these “sisters” have Adam’s apples and sometimes beards. What started in 1976 as a group of gay men performing The Sound of Music then morphed into nuns carrying fake machine guns and cigars in local parades; now the satirical act is also a charity that is devoted to “community service, ministry and outreach to those on the edges, and to promoting human rights, respect for diversity and spiritual enlightenment.”

AsiaSF: The gender-bending waitresses—mostly Asian men dressed very con- vincingly as hot-to-trot women—will blow your mind with their performance of lip-synched show tunes, which takes place every night. Bring the parents— they’ll love it. See p. 125.

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