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Quirky

20 of the ’s oddest or most unexpected activities CONTENT

Derek Blyth Author

Quirky Flanders

2 / Walk barefoot in 12/ Discover the new Berlin landers is full of offbeat things to do. 3 / Visit a bizarre Belgian enclave 13/ Take a foodie tour in the They can be surprising, sometimes 4 / Walk through a that was once 14/ Explore the dark secrets of a Fa little disturbing, but always a battlefield Brabant Castle unexpected. Most are off the beaten track, 5 / Find old in a lost 15/ Cycle down the golden river away from the crowds, in places that are 16/ Sneak a look at the forbidden sometimes hard to find. 6 / Follow the street art sculpture 7 / Find the Bruges no one knows 17/ Stroll through eccentric You might need to ask in a local bar 8 / Take the world’s longest ride architecture for directions or set off on foot down a 9 / Admire the station that moved 36 18/ Take a night walk in muddy track. But it’s worth making the metres 19/ Hop on a free bike to explore effort to find them, because they tell you 10/ Wander along ’s lost river ’s hinterland something about Flanders that you don’t 11/ Visit the world’s most beautiful 20/ Walk under the river in Antwerp read in the guide books or learn from chocolate shop Wikipedia.

Quirky Flanders 2 WALK BAREFOOT IN LIMBURG VISIT A BIZARRE BELGIAN ENCLAVE

he village of -Hertog is described as a Belgian enclave within the Nether- Tlands, but it’s a lot more complicated than that. The village, population 2,300, is t used to be seen as eccentric broken up into 20 little enclaves located and even reckless, but walk- inside the Dutch village of Baarle-Nassau. Iing barefoot is taking off in But there are also seven Dutch exclaves Flanders. Some argue that it provides within the Belgian enclaves. health benefits, but others simply see it as a new way to experience . The result is a baffling with two fire stations, two town The best place to try it out is in Limburg halls, a cafe split between two coun- , where the first blotevoetenpad tries and a house with the living (barefoot path) was created in 2006 at De Li- room in and the bed- eteberg . The 2km barefoot trail room on Dutch . Once a den lets you experience a range of surfaces, from of smuggling, it is now a lively wooden walkways to sand and even mud. tourist town with a curious split identity. The route includes a steep hill, a stretch of and a wooden lookout tower. Kids, not surprisingly, Northern Antwerp love it. province

Visitors’ Centre Lieteberg Zutendaal

ææwww.lieteberg.be ææwww.baarle-hertog.be

Quirky Flanders 3 WALK THROUGH A FOREST THAT WAS ONCE A BATTLE- FIELD

he nature reserve De Palingbeek has woodland , farm animals and Tviews of rolling countryside. But this estate near Ypres also has a tragic history. Some of the fiercest battles of the First World War were fought here, leaving FIND OLD behind concrete bunkers, flooded craters and two small cemeteries hidden deep ANTWERP IN A in the forest. LOST SCHELDT The most striking is Hedge Row Cemetery, a silent, mysterious VILLAGE place that can only be reached on foot along a muddy forest trail. The original cemetery was he strange forgotten village of Buitenland destroyed by shellfire, and the is hard to find. It lies off the main road in graves were laid out after the Ta bend of the Old Scheldt. Not many people war in a circle. Three former ever come here, so no one has bothered to explain army packs are lined up the strange buildings that don’t look as if they be- along the cemetery wall long. containing objects that soldiers once carried, They were built in 1894 for the World Fair in Antwerp as like gas masks, hand- part of a nostalgic section called Old Antwerp. After the ææwww.tinyurl.com/depalingbeek kerchiefs and even fair was over, most of the buildings were demolished, but makeup. a few were rebuilt in Buitenland by a local businessman who owned a basket-making company. The most impressive Zwarteleenstraat is a replica of the 16th-century Reuzenhuis. Palingbeek, Near ,

Quirky Flanders 4 FOLLOW THE BRUSSELS STREET ART TRAIL FIND THE BRUGES NO ONE KNOWS

illions of tourists head straight for the crowded centre of Bruges, but Malmost no one walks around the he street art scene in Brussels old ramparts. Landscaped in the 19th emerged in the 1990s when century, they form an almost continuous Tthe , modelling itself on around the old city. Here is Berlin, took a more tolerant attitude where to head if you want to escape the towards graffiti. Many of the best street crowds. artists flocked to the abandoned Kapell- ekerk railway station in the Marollen You might pass the occasional fisher- where the art organisation Recyclart was man or a couple their bikes, based. but almost everyone is local. The seven-kilometre trail takes you The artists were given permission to create past city gates, windmills and a works in the tunnels that run under the rail- wooden crane, with authentic way viaduct. Here you find striking works by local pubs like De Windmolen local artists such as Bonom and ROA as well as providing stops along the Greek artist Sonke. From the station, head into the way. Marollen where vibrant street art can be found in cobbled alleys off the Hoogstraat. Between Bruges train station and Ezelpoort Ursulinenstraat, Brussels city gate

ææwww.recyclart.be ææwww.brugge.be

Quirky Flanders 5 TAKE THE WORLD’S LONGEST TRAM RIDE

ost visitors say the same thing. The coast is flat. It’s a long line ADMIRE Mof apartment buildings. And it al- ways . But take a ride on the coast tram THE STATION and you might see things differently. THAT MOVED The 67-kilometre route is the longest in the world and costs just a few euros for a day ticket. You can cover the 36 METRES entire route from southern to northern in a couple of hours, but it is more fun to get off at different stops along the way. ou might not think Antwerpen-Dam looks You can wander among the fish different from any other Belgian train sta- shops in Nieuwpoort, drink a Ytion. Located near Park Spoor Noord, it’s a coffee in Ostend’s grand cafe typical Flemish Renaissance building stand- Du Parc and walk out to the ing alongside a railway viaduct. But an exhibition end of the wooden jetty of old photographs in the tunnel under the viaduct in . But the tells an astonishing story. best part of the trip is the stretch between the sea It reveals that the entire station was moved 36 metres and the dunes just west in 1907 using an ingenious system of mechanical jacks ææwww.delijn.be of Ostend. and rails. The company that carried out this exceptional engineering project hoped that it could sell the technolo- From De Panne to gy elsewhere, but the concept never took off, leaving Dam Knokke station as a unique experiment.

Damplein, Antwerp

Quirky Flanders 6 VISIT THE WORLD’S WANDER ALONG MOST BEAUTIFUL MECHELEN’S LOST CHOCOLATE SHOP RIVER

t’s one of Flanders’ forgotten hen Dominique Persoone opened rivers. The Dijle flows secret- The Chocolate Line in Bruges, Ily between old buildings Wpeople were rather shocked that in Mechelen, but you can track it he used ingredients like smoked eel, fried down at a couple of spots. Begin on bacon and cauliflower. But then he was Zoutwerf, a former harbour with an awarded a place in the Michelin guide, impressive renaissance house once and the critics adjusted their opinion. owned by the guild of fishermen. His second shop occupies two Here you can pick up the Dijlepad - rooms in a former royal palace on en walkway that meanders along stretches Antwerp’s Meir, once occupied by of water once accessible only by boat. Then ’s brother. The choco- head back to the charming cafe De Gouden lates are sold in an elegant room Vis near the old fish market where you can with 18th-century wall paint- sit outside on a sunny terrace overlooking the ings, while the ancient tiled river. kitchen is now a chocolate workshop.

Paleis op de Meir Meir 50, Antwerp

ææwww.mechelen.be ææwww.dominiquepersoone.be

Quirky Flanders 7 DISCOVER THE NEW BERLIN

et off through the streets of Brussels to check out some quirky art galleries in TAKE A Sunusual locations. Begin at Wiels, where edgy art is shown in a former brewery next FOODIE to the railway tracks. The newly opened rooftop space adds to the excitement of TOUR IN THE this industrial space.

Head uptown to Poelaertplein where WESTHOEK several galleries, including the well- known Jan Mot, have taken over a large building once occupied by a law publisher. Now head ome of the strangest and beer is through Elsene to Galerie Valerie produced in the rolling hills of the Flem- Bach, where art is exhibited Sish west around Ypres. It’s worth in a former skating rink. End checking out the bierpaté sold in local butchers, your art tour at Galerie Rivoli with each recipe using a different local beer. where several small galleries Some say the best is made by Puydtjes, where such as the popular Xavier they use the strong Sint-Bernardus Abt 12 beer. Hufkens have taken over a 1970s shopping mall. Look out also for potjevlesch, literally a “little pot of meat”, made with chicken, rabbit and veal preserved in jelly and served with a bowl of ææwww.bamart.be frietjes and a beer. And if you ever find yourself ææwww.toerismewesthoek.be in Poperinge, drop into Bakkerij Sansen to pick up a mazarinetaart. This sweet sponge cake is named after a Cardinal Jules Mazarin, who soaked sponge cake in warm butter and cinna- mon sauce to create a sweet, sticky pudding.

Quirky Flanders 8 CYCLE DOWN THE EXPLORE THE DARK GOLDEN RIVER SECRETS OF A nce called the Golden River because it BRABANT CASTLE flowed among flax fields, the Leie meanders Othrough the flat countryside outside Ghent, passing sleepy where Flemish artists once painted. This is a quiet region of cobbled roads, fields of cows and local bars.

Follow the river south of abbey, heave your bike onto the free ferry at Afsnee and drink a beer in Cafe Sfinx on the other bank. From here, some serious he strangely overlooked Gaas- pedalling brings you eventually to the beek Castle lies just outside Brus- Flemish Renaissance turrets of Ooi- Tsels in the rolling donk castle. Ring the caretaker’s bell countryside of . Here at the entrance if you want to look you can explore dark Neo Gothic interiors, around. including a dining hall, round tower and luxurious Art Deco bathroom installed by the It’s then just a few more kilo- last countess to live here. metres to the riverside bar ’t Oud Sashuis, located in an aban- These romantic rooms are often the setting for doned lock-keeper’s house. contemporary art exhibitions on creative themes The interior is crammed with like sex and death. After a visit, you can wander shipping mementoes, old around the wooded estate, visit the walled vegeta- photographs and dried sau- ble garden and drink a beer in one of the taverns at sages hanging on strings, the castle gates. while French songs play in the background. Use Kasteelstraat 40, Lennik the numbered cycle route signs, or knoop- punten, to plot a ææwww.kasteelvangaasbeek.be route.

ææwww.fietsnet.be

Quirky Flanders 9 STROLL THROUGH ECCENTRIC SNEAK A LOOK AT ARCHITECTURE A FORBIDDEN SCULPTURE

isplayed in a temple designed by the young Victor Horta, Jef Lambeau’s D“Human Passions” has not been seen by the public since 1899. But curious visitors peer through the keyhole for a glimpse of this notorious banned relief. ake the tram to Antwerp’s Zuren- Carved from 17 blocks of white Carrara borg district, just a few minutes marble, it features dozens of naked Tfrom Central Station. Here you find bodies representing human passions some of the most stunning 19th-century such as seduction, suicide, birth, architecture in Europe. The main street drunkenness and murder. This Cogels-Osylei is lined with buildings in every proved too much for 19th-century style imaginable, from mock Greek temples to sensitivities, and the temple’s en- Art Nouveau. trance was bricked up just three days after it was unveiled. The exuberance continues in the surrounding streets, where wealthy locals built grand houses In 2015 it will be open decorated with turrets, balconies and painted ce- temporarily to visitors, on ramic tiles. It used to be a forgotten district with few Wednesdays and week- restaurants, but the squares De Dageraadplaats and ends until 25 October. Draakplaats are now lively urban eating hubs.

Jubelpark Museum Tram 11 ææwww.kmkg-mrah.be Etterbeek (Brussels) Cogels-Osylei, Antwerp ææwww.visitantwerpen.be

Quirky Flanders 10 HOP ON A FREE TAKE A NIGHT BIKE TO EXPLORE WALK IN GHENT OSTEND’S HINTERLAND

ost people struggle to find a parking place at the coast, but Ostend has Mcome up with a smart solution. You can park on the edge of town and then hop on a free bike to get around.

Launched back in 1998, the Park & Bike scheme hands out distinctive bright yellow bikes at three locations. You hent is an atmospheric city after can be at the beach in a few minutes, dark thanks in part to an inspiring or, if you want to be more adventur- Gurban lighting plan. The ancient ous, set off on the 30km Lint Gothic buildings like Vleeshuis and Sint- route around the edge of Ostend. Baaf’s are illuminated with subtle lights that bring out the mediaeval details, while spot- This takes you on an intriguing lights in the pavements create a theatrical effect route, past a race course, oys- when anyone walks past. ter farm, fishermen’s church and across the harbour on Start a night walk on Sint-Michiels bridge and fol- a free ferry. Download the low the waterfront north to Vrijdagmarkt. Then head route map from the tour- east to the streets around Sint-Jacobs church. ist office website.

Central Ghent

ææwww.gentverlicht.be

ææwww.visitoostende.be

Quirky Flanders 11 VISIT A MUSEUM WALK UNDER THE WHERE YOU DON’T RIVER IN ANTWERP WANT TO BE ALONE

any people don’t even realise you can walk under the river Scheldt. Just over Mhalf a kilometre long, the white tiled Sint-Anna tunnel was built in 1933. You find the entrance in an Art Deco brick building behind the basketball court on Sint-Jansvliet. A creaky wooden escalator takes you down to the tun- nel level, where you can walk to the other side in about 10 minutes.

But what do you do once you get across? he strange and haunting Dr In the past, people headed along the Guislain Museum occupies the waterfront to Sint-Anna beach, a little T19th-century psychiatric institution resort that was the height of fashion founded by Dr Jozef Guislain. Visitors can in the 1930s. Locals still come here to wander through chilling deserted wards still eat in the fish restaurants behind furnished with iron beds and old medical the sea wall, swim in the open-air equipment. pool and cycle along the dike towards the Dutch border. But One room contains a terrifying mechanical saw don’t expect beach huts and used in operations to remove the top of the skull. night clubs. The temporary exhibitions are always fascinating, as is the extensive collection of outsider art. Almost Sint-Jansvliet, Antwerp no one leaves this museum untouched.

J Guislainstraat 43 Ghent

ææwww.visitantwerpen.be ææwww.museumdrguislain.be

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