The Value of a Journey Through the Wilderness SCOTT WOOD Department of Human Performance and Recreation
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Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land Page 9
VERTICAL TIMESSection The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 09/Volume 86 www.accessfund.org Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land page 9 CHOOSING YOUR COnseRvatION STRateGY 6 THE NOTORIOUS HORsetOOTH HanG 7 Winter 09 Vertical Times 1 QUeen CReeK/OaK Flat: NEGOTIATIONS COntINUE 12 AF Perspective “ All the beautiful sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action.” — James Russell Lowell irst of all, I want to take a moment to thank you for all you’ve done to support us. Without members and donors like you, we would fall short F of accomplishing our goals. I recently came across some interesting statistics in the Outdoor Foundation’s annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report. In 2008, 4.7 million people in the United States participated in bouldering, sport climbing, or indoor climbing, and 2.3 million people went trad climbing, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It is also interesting to note that less than 1% of these climbers are members of the Access Fund. And the majority of our support comes from membership. We are working on climbing issues all across the country, from California to Maine. While we have had many successes and our reach is broad, just imagine what would be possible if we were able to increase our membership base: more grants, more direct support of local climbing organizations, and, ultimately, more climbing areas open and protected. We could use your help. Chances are a number of your climbing friends and partners aren’t current Access Fund members. Please take a moment to tell them about our work and the impor- tance of joining us, not to mention benefits like discounts on gear, grants for local projects, timely information and alerts about local access issues, and a subscrip- tion to the Vertical Times. -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Ski Mountaineering Camp Packet
Mount Hood Intro to Ski Mountaineering Camp Mount Hood, Oregon June 22-24, 2021 Level: 14 and Older A girls-only introduction to ski mountaineering camp on Mount Hood, Oregon. The camp will include an all-female professional guide team and education on ski mountaineering fundamentals. Itinerary: June 22nd 3-5pm: Orientation Guides will meet the girls participating in this camp at 3pm to go over the following: • Expectations/ goals for the camp • Safety briefing • Gear check • Tips on how to pack your pack June 23rd: Ski Mountaineering Day School Meet time: TBD Guides will meet the girls at the base of Timberline ski area. From the top of the lifts they will tour above the ski area and review skills for the summit attempt the following day. This will include ice axe self-arrest, how to use crampons, basic skinning techniques, rope travel and other skills that the guides think will be important to cover before the summit attempt. Following the field day guides will review the day with the girls and review the plan for the summit day! June 24th: Summit Attempt Guides and athletes will meet at the base of Timberline ski area and make an attempt to ski off the summit (weather and route conditions depending). If all goes according to plan, guides and athletes will ride the chairlift to the top of the ski area. They will make their summit attempt from there dependent on conditions and weather. If conditions do not allow us to ski off the summit, guides will make that decision and we have the option to leave our skis at various places on the route. -
South America and Antarctica 1993
DAVID SHARMAN South America and Antarctica 1993 Thanks are due to Marcelo Scanu, Gerhard Feichtenschlager, Pavle Kozjek and Franci Savenc for their invaluable contributions. Most of the activity this year has continued to centre on the developed countries of Argentina and Chile where an increasing number of teams are producing committing big-wall routes in a variety of styles. In Peru the situation continues to improve, with Slovenians notably active this summer. Venezuela Aratitiyope Paul Ridgeway, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana and a camera crew made a difficult approach through jungle to attempt the second ascent of Boivin's 1984 route up a prominent rib on the right side of the 600m E face of this flat-topped tower. Peru - Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash Both the weather and the security situation were considerably more set tled in Peru this year with New Zealand climbers returning to the Huay huash after a long absence following the 1988 shootout. They made an attempt on the W face of Yerupaja, stopping just short of the summit. Slovenians dominated the new route scene in the Blanca where general levels of activity continued to rise. Artesonraju (6025m) On 9July 1993 Tomo Sbrizaj and Sebastian Semrajc climbed the SE face via a direct line up the triangular rock buttress to a junction with the normal route. On 18 July they returned with Borut Naglic and repeated the route, Triangle, continuing to the summit (TD+ 60°- 85° III 600m). Andre Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed the snowy SW face through seracs on the left side but it is not clear how this differs from' previous ascents of this face. -
Historical Analysis and Notes on the Emergence of the Profession of Mountain Guide and Alpinism
Trakia Journal of Sciences, Vol. 18, Suppl. 1, pp 752-757, 2020 Copyright © 2020 Trakia University Available online at: http://www.uni-sz.bg ISSN 1313-3551 (online) doi:10.15547/tjs.2020.s.01.121 HISTORICAL ANALYSIS AND NOTES ON THE EMERGENCE OF THE PROFESSION OF MOUNTAIN GUIDE AND ALPINISM T. Dimitrov* Department of Sport, Sofia University, St. Kliment Ohridski”, Sofia, Bulgaria ABSTRACT In its essence, a man is a discoverer and researcher. His irresistible desire for knowledge gives birth to progress, and he the thirst to master the secrets of nature. The process of conquering the mountains is long and continuous. A major stage in the development of alpinism was the climbing of Mont Blanc in 1776 by the physician Michelle-Gabriel Pacar and the mountain shepherd and crystal collector Jacques Balma, who was also his guide during the climbing. With this significant climbing, only one stage of exploring the mountains ends. The importance of mountain guides, being professionals, for the development of alpinism, driven by the desires of their clients and scientific and educational purpose is huge. They lay the foundations of modern techniques and methods in alpinism, and create functional equipment for mountain climbing. Key words: guides, climbing methods, development of mountain sports. INTRODUCTION METHODS Alpinism, as a conscious and purposeful Hypothesis - Thanks to mountain guides, have activity of modern man, generated by interest any of the most significant climbs and peaks in and love for the mountains is a relatively new the world been climbed and do they make a phenomenon in human society, but the significant contribution to the development of conquest of the mountains out of necessity can alpinism and mountaineering in the world? be attributed to prehistoric times. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Alpine Notes
320 ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES (Compiled by D. F. 0. Dangar) PERSONAL. M. Armand Charlet, Herr Albert Eggler, and Mr. C. F. Meade have been elected Honorary Members of the Alpine Club. M. Charlet has recently retired after forty-seven years climbing as a , guide; in the course of his career he made nearly 3,ooo expeditions in the Alps, ninety-nine of them since becoming a grandfather! Mter twenty years' service he is not standing again for election as Mayor of Argentiere. Herr Albert Eggler is President of the Swiss Alpine Club and was leader of the successful Swiss Mount Everest expedition of I956. Mr. C. F. Meade is known for his Himalayan travels and particularly for his attempts on Kamet; to him is due the credit for discovering the only practicable route up the mountain and he was unlucky not to have reached the summit. In the Alps he made many expeditions including the first descent of the North-east an~te of the J ungfrau with Ulrich and Heinrich Fuhrer in I 903 eight years before the first ascent of the ridge. We congratulate Mr. A. E. Gunther on having been elected an Hono rary Member of the Club Andino Venenolano de Merida. ONE HuNDRED YEARS AGo. Although the first ascent of the Matter horn overshadowed all other achievements in I 86 5, several notable ascents were made in the course of the summer. A. W. Moore and Horace Walker broke away from contemporary practice by carrying out an extensive tour with only one guide, Jakob Anderegg. -
1976 Bicentennial Mckinley South Buttress Expedition
THE MOUNTAINEER • Cover:Mowich Glacier Art Wolfe The Mountaineer EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Verna Ness, Editor; Herb Belanger, Don Brooks, Garth Ferber. Trudi Ferber, Bill French, Jr., Christa Lewis, Mariann Schmitt, Paul Seeman, Loretta Slater, Roseanne Stukel, Mary Jane Ware. Writing, graphics and photographs should be submitted to the Annual Editor, The Mountaineer, at the address below, before January 15, 1978 for consideration. Photographs should be black and white prints, at least 5 x 7 inches, with caption and photo grapher's name on back. Manuscripts should be typed double· spaced, with at least 1 Y:z inch margins, and include writer's name, address and phone number. Graphics should have caption and artist's name on back. Manuscripts cannot be returned. Properly identified photographs and graphics will be returnedabout June. Copyright © 1977, The Mountaineers. Entered as second·class matter April8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Washington, under the act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly, except July, when semi-monthly, by The Mountaineers, 719 Pike Street,Seattle, Washington 98101. Subscription price, monthly bulletin and annual, $6.00 per year. ISBN 0-916890-52-X 2 THE MOUNTAINEERS PURPOSES To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanentform the history and tra ditions of thisregion; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of NorthwestAmerica; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all loversof outdoor life. 0 � . �·' ' :···_I·:_ Red Heather ' J BJ. Packard 3 The Mountaineer At FerryBasin B. -
Contents Volume 36, June 2017
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Contents Volume 36, June 2017 Ninety Years of The Himalayan Club – Celebrations and New Beginnings 4 The Himalayan Club Logo for the 90th Year Celebrations 4 An Overwhelming Annual Seminar 4 Launch of Commemorative Himalayan Journal Issue 7 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award 8 Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering 8 Jagdish Nanavati Garud Medal 8 Annual Dinner 9 Banff Film Festival 10 Arun Samant Memorial Lecture 10 Visit to Dharamsala 10 A short Sojourn with the Himalayan Club 17 New Beginnings with the Digital Age 18 Activities of the Delhi Section 18 Climbs and Explorations 19 Tibet 19 Exploration of Southern Tibet 19 International team climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan - Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m 20 Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet 23 Tibet’s Jang Tsang Go climbed 27 South Face of Shisha Pangma in 13 hours 28 Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya 28 Kangchenjunga Skyline Project 28 New Catalan climbs in Nepal 29 Three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley 30 First alpine style ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face 32 Everest - Hillary Step collapsed 33 Kumaun and Garhwal Himalaya 33 Direct route up Thalay Sagar North Face(6904m) 33 Himachal Pradesh 35 Shiv Shankar – 6050m – First ascent of the North Buttress 35 2 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Kishtwar Himalaya 37 A new Route on South face of Brammah II 37 News & Views 39 IMF News 39 Augmented Climbing Wall 40 Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey 41 Piolets d’Or Awards – 2017 41 Obituaries 42 Warwick Deacock 42 Ueli Steck 44 The man to remember 47 Erich Abram, the last Italian K2 mountaineer 48 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2017 50 Narration for Cover Page A 90 year Journey. -
Robert Schaller Jr., 1934 – 2014 Robert T
AAC Publications Robert Schaller Jr., 1934 – 2014 Robert T. Schaller Jr., M.D., died of pneumonia on December 7, 2014, in Kirkland, Washington, surrounded by family. He had delighted in his medical practice and in mountaineering. He was a leading pediatric surgeon in the Seattle area until arthritis forced him to give up operating, but he continued to teach and to work on his surgical slide archive for Children’s Hospital in Seattle. Jane Green and Rob Schaller met and married at Harvard Medical School in 1958. That fall, Jane took Rob on his first mountain trip, to the White Mountains, where Jane had climbed as a camp counselor. In 1960 they chose Seattle for their internships, to go where the big mountains were. They enrolled in the climbing course at the University of Washington led by Pete Schoening, including a climb of Mt. Rainier. Rob went on to India, Alaska, Pakistan, and Nepal. He was a miler, a marathoner, had captained the Yale track team, and was set for the challenges of mountaineering. I first climbed with him in May 1968. Dee Molenaar and Lee Nelson organized a climb of Liberty Ridge with Sandy Bill, Warren Bleser, Dave Mahre, Rob, and me. Dee was the first to get permission to attempt the ridge before the official season. Dee wanted to show that early ascents were feasible. This he did. The climb was a delight, save for a storm and unplanned bivouac on Columbia Crest. A clear dawn and downhill run to Camp Schurman restored our spirits. Lee and Warren filmed parts of the climb for Don McCune’s “Exploration Northwest” (a DVD is available.) In 1968, Rob was in the final year of his residency in general surgery and I was completing my thesis at the university. -
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020 C CONTENTS All-Afghan Team with two Women Climb Nation's Highest Peak Noshakh 7492m of Afghanistan Page 2 ~ 6 Himalayan Club E-Letter vol. 40 Page 7 ~ 43 1 All-Afghan Team, with 2 Women Climb Nation's Highest – Peak Noshakh 7492m The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. Related News • Female 30K Cycling Race Starts in Afghanistan • Afghan Female Cyclist in France Prepares for Olympics Fatima Sultani, an 18-year-old Afghan woman, spoke to TOLOnews and said she and companions reached the summit of Noshakh in the Hindu Kush mountains, which is the highest peak in Afghanistan at 7,492 meters. 1 The group claims to be the first all-Afghan team to reach the summit. Fatima was joined by eight other mountaineers, including two girls and six men, on the 17-day journey. They began the challenging trip almost a month ago from Kabul. Noshakh is located in the Wakhan corridor in the northeastern province of Badakhshan. “Mountaineering is a strong sport, but we can conquer the summit if we are provided the gear,” Sultani said.The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. “We made a plan with our friends to conquer Noshakh summit without foreign support as the first Afghan team,” said Ali Akbar Sakhi, head of the team. The mountaineers said their trip posed challenge but they overcame them. -
New Yorker Magazine
ANNALS OF ADVENTURE THE MANIC MOUNTAIN Ueli Steck and the clash on Everest. BY NICK PAUMGARTEN TH RIFFI G AN H NAT JO 46 THE NEW YO R K E R , J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 3 TNY—2013_06_03—PAGE 46—133SC.—LIVE ART R23602—EXTREMELY CRITICAL PHOTOGRAPH TO BE WATCHED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PRESS RUN 4C eli Steck’s closest brush with death, many of whom work as porters and guides April 27th was the day that a team of or at least the time he thought it like- for the commercial expeditions on Ever- Sherpas were installing the fixed rope. It liestU that he was about to die, came not est. This was on the first day that the is an essential and difficult job, involving when he plummeted seven hundred feet weather cleared for a summit push. The heavy gear and extreme working condi- down the south face of Annapurna, or next day, the crowds went up—hundreds tions on an ice cliff riddled with crevasses. spidered up the Eiger’s fearsome North of aspirants, most of them clients of com- The day before, the Sherpas, with help Face alone and without ropes in under mercial companies, and their Sherpas— from three Western guides, had nearly three hours, or slipped on wet granite and, amid the traffic jam approaching the completed the job but came to an untra- while free-climbing the Golden Gate summit, four climbers died, of exposure versable crevasse, which had forced them route of El Capitan with his wife, on their and cerebral edema.