ARC HITECTURAL REMAINS OF RI C HMOND TWI C KEN HAM KEW MO RTLAKE AND PETERSHAM TH I S E DI T I O N CONS I S TS O F 400 C O P I E S

6 FO R S A L A N D T H E DRA W I NG S A V E. (3 5 E) , H N B EE E RAS E D F ROM TH E S TO N ES . T HE L I TH OG RA P H S H AV E B EE N P RI N T ED B Y O MAS “I AY 2 1 \V E LLI NGTO N S R E TH , , T ET ' I S P I N TH CO Y S Oo. 3 3 / oawf

FR ON T IS PI ECE T HE OLD PA L A CE R I CH MO N D F R OM T HE COU RT Y A R D

R CH IT E CT UR A L R E M A I N S O I CHMO N D TW ICKE N HA M KEVI E T E R S HA M A N D M O R T L A K

W D RAWN I N L I TH O G RAPH Y BY TH O MAS R . AY W I TH N O TES C O M P I LED BY F REDE R I C C HA P MAN

L ONDO N AN D N EW Y O RK oH N A C M N E A . D M j L . b P rint ed y

lkard S on , Richard Fo

n W . C . h re S tre e t ondo , Devon s i , L P R EFA C E

AV I NG made n ear ly 1 00 D raw i n gs i n th e fou r vol u m es ofRe l ique s ofOld Lon don an d its S u u r s ofwhat a eare d to m e to b b , pp be the most pict ure sque ofth e old b u i ldi n gs an d g rou p s ofhou s e s l eft at th e e n d ofthe C e n t u ry i n t h i s vast c t ofou rs have fou n d t he tas s o n t r s t n an d i y , I k i e e i g , the re ce ption ofth e book s both by the p u bl i c an d th e re s s s o n d that to fi n d s imi ar s u e cts have p ki ly , , l bj , I n atu ral ly l ook e d to that ri n g ofgreat an d grow i n g c t e s wh ch n ci rc e on don n ow bu t are fas t e n i i i e l L , b i g

i n to it s n e t ofS u u r s M r n d Mr ha n e . draw b b . y f i C p man s ugge s ted to m e t hat the old Pal ace an d G re e n at R ch mon d wou d ma e an e xce e n t n u c e u s an d i l k l l l , s o w e w e n t ove r the rou n d an d t he s u e ct s for t he g , bj

r chos e n W h hm n u n r re s n t oo w e e . t R c o d fo p e b k i i , t u n ate l w e s e e m tobe a itt e ate as s t re e t i m rove y , l l l , p m e n t s have bee n m ade ofl ate years by wh i ch m u ch of

h ld char m Oft h n ha e n ost t T i k n t e o e tow s . A w c e _ b e l

' h am too a n e w mai n road i s u st o n e d bu t st m an , , j pe , i l l y c arm n rou s ofold hou se s re m a n an d it i s to h i g g p i , be h op e d t h ey w i ll n ot be i mp roved offth e face ofth e m m d u m ch a t as s ma an d n co o o s . t rs a w e r h l l i i Pe e h , h i i s r a s t he m ost a s tocrat c a i n n an d pe h p ri i v i l l ge E gl , bei n g al most e n t i rely com pos ed ofa grou p ofspl e n di d

ar or n Man s on s s ou d on e m a r ason a e ly Ge gi a i , h l , y e bly r a n a i i s for an i n d fi n m x ct m s t t t . e pe , e i e i e i e A m on st t h s e d raw n s i s on e t he v w om g e i g , i e fr R c mon d T rrac w ch i s n ot arc t ctu a u n ss i h e e , h i h i e r l ( le w e may look u pon the t ree s w h i ch form a s cr e e n tothe ’ s u ct as n at u r s arc t ct u r b ut R c mon d an d bje e h i e e), i h its R r V w s e m i n s e ara e an d s oi t i s i n c u de d i ve i e e p b l , l w h t r i t h t e o h e s . Th e re are probably man y b u i ldi n gs w i th more i n t r st n assoc at on s than some ofthose h re draw n e e i g i i e , bu t my s el ect i on i s m ai n ly bas e d on the pi ctu resque c aract r ofthe s u cts i n add t on toth i r an u t h e bje i i e tiq i y . Th a all n d r w r fr m n atu r ey h v e be e a n d i e ctly o e .

T R W AY . . .

vi . C O N TE N TS

P LATE PAG E RICHMOND

’ O ld Palac e from t he Courtyard Fr on ti rpzere O ld Palac e from t he G re e n G re e n side Ric hm on d Ch urc h T he Bridge T he T rumpe tin g House R e d Lion I n n A lmshouse s in t he She e n Road V ie w from t he T e rrac e G arde n s T he W hit e L odg e

Parkshot

T WI CK E N H A M

T he R ve om Eas i r Fr , t T w ic ke n ham Ch urch Mon t pe lie r Row

T he G e o e I n n K n S e e rg , i g tr t Ch urc h St re e t Sion Row

K EW '

vii . P LATE PAGE MO RT LA K E

Mort lake Ch u rc h T he Rive r Fron t

P E TE RS H A M

P e t e rsham Ch urc h R u t lan d Lodge Ham H ouse

i i v i . A RCHITECTURAL REMAIN S O F RI C HMO N D T WI C KEN HAM KEW MO RTLAKE AN D PETERSHAM

R I C H MO N D

H E origin O fthe present name of the t own is told in A s the note on the old palace . to its earlier name, S S hene , it is supposed by some to be a axon word s n u ignifying shini g , or beautif l , and to have been bestowed on the place in recognition of it s natu ral beauty .

I n a H arleian manuscript , almost contemporary with S Doomsday B ook , the name is spelt yene ; and it has been S suggested that the neighbouring convent of yon , the pre S u decessor of yon H ouse , may have acq ired its name from it s nearness to S yene rather than from the Mount S ion of the sacred city . I t were perhaps equally plausible to suggest t a S h t the town , or village rather, was named yene because the proximity of the hill brought the holy mountain continu of s ally before the mind some devotee of remote day . The early history of Richmond is the history O fit s con n e ct ion with the royal family , and is therefore contained in the note on the old palace . A l fter the abandonment of the palace by the roya family, there is not much to be told until the kings of the hou se of u R i n H anover took p their residence at ichmond Lodge , the B ut its Old Deer Park . in speaking of this residence and occupants it will be necessary to go back several generations .

H enry V . was burdened with the knowledge that his e R father had dethroned and caused the d ath of ichard I I . , and being a man of deeply religious temperament (the wild a w escap des of his youth not ithstanding) , he resolved to found two religious houses wherein perpetual intercession should be ’ u made for his father s so l and that of the murdered king . B rid e t in e S Of The one was the g nunnery of yon , which mention is made in the note on Twickenham Park , which faced the palace on the opposite side of the river ; an d the other a Carthusian establishment for forty monks , known as “ The H ouse of J esus of Bethlehem at S heen . This l atter monastery was O fvery considerable dim e n A sions , and contained , according to ubrey, a great hall , 1 2 2 measuring 3 feet in length by 4 feet in width , a great 60 1 00 quadrangle , 3 feet in length and feet in width , cloisters 6 00 0 00 feet long and 9 feet high , and a total area of 3 feet by 1 3 0 5 feet . I n all monasteries of the Carthusian order each inmate C had a separate small house , bordering on the great loister, and comprising a living room . a sleeping room , a workshop ,

and a little oratory . E ven the small garden attached to each “ of these cells was enclosed within its own walls . O f I t would be one these houses , or cottages, that J ohn A a th 1 6 8 E velyn refers to on ugust 7 , 7 ’ ’ Mr B rou n c ke r s . . S Din d at H en at ye abbey of heene , a formerly a mon stery of Carthusians , there yet remaining r one of their solita y cells with a crosse .

Presumably hall , church , cloisters had all vanished , leaving only the single cell ; but some portion of the old buildings may have been incorporated in the house at which

E velyn dined , as he makes no mention of the great gateway 1 of the Priory , which was not demolished till 7 7 0 .

Edward I V . and his Queen , with the Duke of G lou

c e st e r R . 1 2 , afterwards ichard I I I , visited the Priory in 47 , ’ 00 to to obtain 5 days pardon , this grace having been offered ” all persons who had contribu ted to the repairs of the building . Perkin Warbeck sought and O btained shelter here i n

1 496 from the vengeance of H enry V I I .

S tow records that the body of J ames I V . of S cotland s was brought here after the battle of Flodden Field , and state

t 1 2 . tha he saw it, wrapped in lead , in a lumber room i n 5 5

I n 1 5 3 9 the Priory was suppressed by H enry V I I I . and granted in the following year to the nobleman who afterwards S became Duke of omerset , and who so enriched himself at f the general spoliation O the religious houses . R I t is stated that the marriage of obert Dudley, Earl of A m R Leicester, with y obsart took place here , in which case the Priory Church must have remained unmutilated for a con s id e rable length Oftime . The house had been restored to M religious uses for a brief period under Queen ary .

1 6 8 . I n 3 it was bestowed by Charles I upon James ,

Duke of Lennox , for life . Lord Lisle had a lease of it upon the restoration of Charles I I . H e assigned it to J ohn , Lord B e llas s e 1 666 S ir y , and in it became the residence of William

Temple . “ M 1 66 y heart , he writes in 7 , is set on my little corner S at heen , that while I keep it no other disappointments will be sensible to me . I am contriving this summer how a s uccession of cherries may be compassed from May to M S im ichaelmas , and how the riches of heen vines may be - a- proved by half dozen sorts which are not known here . E lsewhere he speaks of laying out a thou sand pounds upon his garden . S ir William I I I . visited William Temple at S heen from R S i r time to time , but the great significance to ichmond of W ’ illiam s residence here is that with him was his secretary , h S J onat an wift , and that here began the strange romance S between wift and H ester J ohnson , the true details of which have remained to this day one of the unelucidated mysteries R of literary history . ichmond can boast a special relationship

3 13—2 ou r n al toS te /l a was to the famous j , since it the outcome of an acquaintance begu n in the town .

I n the Old Deer Park, near the site of the Priory , was a O f house known as The Lodge , erected by J ohn Colet , Dean ’

t 1 1 . a S . Paul s , who died there in 5 9 C rdinal Wolsey occupied the house for a short time when his downfall had already begun , and Cardinal Pole lived in it for a couple of years . A ’ I n Queen nne s reign it was granted to J ames , Duke ’ Cole t s of Ormond , and he pulled down building and erected A a new mansion for his own occupation . fter his impeach A ment his brother, the Earl of rran , purchased it , and sub sequently sold it to George I I . , then Prince of Wales . H is A Queen , Caroline of nspach , had a strong partiality for the a t h place , and spent a gre t deal of money on ornamenting e h gardens wit buildings and figures in her peculiar taste . ’ ” M “ a “ There were erlin s Cave , The H ermit ge , The M ” “ ” enagerie , The Library , and so on , and a person who S passed for a poet , by the name of tephen Duck , was installed as librarian .

The Lodge, as rebuilt , seems from existing views of it to a h ve been a particularly plain and severe building , hence ’ possibly the Queen s gropings after the romantic and pie t ur e sq u e in the decoration of her grounds . H ere S ir Robert Walpole announced to the Prince Of

Wales the death , at Osnaburg , of his father, King George I . The scene is pourtrayed very vividly by Thackeray in 7 71 3 F ou r G e or es g , but his account appears to lose in acc uracy what it gains in dramatic quality ; and the main incident of the interview seems to have been the unpalatable instructions S ir R given by the new King to obert, Go to Chiswick and S ir S take your directions from pencer Compton . w a S ir R w The King soon learned , ho ever, th t obert as a S i r R more valuable minister to him than Compton , and obert remained in power . R S ichmond Lodge and omerset H ouse, with a year, were apportioned to Queen Caroline by Parliament ,

4 ants flung at Wolsey when he t ook up his quarters there after ’ g i ving H ampton Court to the K ing S oe a butcher s dogge M R — dothe lie in the anor of ichmond alluding , of course , to

. a o his reputed parentage The P lace , indeed , seems t have ’ M S R been known as the King s anor of hene , ichmond Court , R b t a u u . and ichmond H o se , only rarely as the P lace A portion of the S heen Road near to the town was Mars h at e bu known until recent years as g , and one can t regret that a name with old associations should have been a obliterated . H ereabouts is a pleas nt old group of eighteenth Century houses known as S pring Terrace ; a fine old house Marsh at e called g H ouse , with a handsome iron entrance gate of somewhat intricate workmanship ; a huge seventeenth century red brick winged mansion , which has within the last few years been divided into three separate houses by par . tit ion i ng off the wi n gs from the centre block ; and Lichfi e ld d H ouse, a plain but dignified building , the resi ence for many Mr s M w ho h r years past of . J ohn axwell , by e maiden name,

M . . E B raddon , is known as one of the most popular women noveli sts of the reign . S S George treet , the H igh treet of the town , retains few interesti ng features , so much that was old having given place “ ” to commanding business premises . I ts tortuousness and A narrowness remains, however. good idea of the appearance of that part of the street called the Quadrant , before the mo m dern buildings were erected , is to be gained fro a view , in ’ i t r f Mr . H s o O Chancellor s y , the old omnibus office , where u u tickets for the jo rney to London sed to be obtained , at one h time for two s illings each , but later for a shilling . S t Of old buildings in George treet , the only one tha ' u nmistakeabl y appears i n Overton s 1 7 1 0 view is that now

M A . occupied by essrs . W . J . and Long , auctioneers and s h urveyors . The modern police station at the side of it as the reduced it by the width of one whole gable end , but t the u J acobean charac er of remaining gable is naltered , in u despite of st cco . There are a few quaint cottages su rrounding the church t yard , and one or two nice old houses in Church Terrace , jus beyond . Richmond is the background of at least two famo us scenes in fiction . ’ ’ Tle H e ar t o M i al otézaa S ir The first is in e f . Walter ’ S cott makes use of Queen Caroline s habitual residence at Richmond to stage here t h e famous interview between J eanie u Deans and the Queen , although he seems to have bl ndered ’ about the position of the Queen s house , The Lodge , and placed it in the Park itself, instead of in the Old Deer Park . ' n n a The other is in P e de m s . Thacker y takes the whole family to Richmond after the recovery of A rthur from his M illness in the Temple , and here H elen and the ajor have their battle over the supposed delinquencies of the hero . We “ A t R read too , Piccadilly, waiting for the ichmond omnibus , M George ! Warrington! fell in with ajor Pendennis , bound in ” M the same direction . H e tells the ajor how Fanny is “ M ! finding consolation . S ays the ajor When I used to read ’ ' Télema ae Cal so ae ou r/ai l se oon sol azl o at school , yp f , I used to A ” say it was absard . bsard , by Gad, and so it is . ’ s The bibliographer, noting that the preface to Browning ’ ’ P au li n e R zoémorz a 1 8 2 n is dated from , 3 , might co clude that a bu t here was nother literary connection with the old town , the poet ’s son states that the name was only used as a blind to conceal the real place of origin of the volume . “ R Wordsworth wrote here his stanzas , emembrance of m R ” Collins , composed upon the Tha es near ichmond . ’ Collecl ea P oe ms Mr The of . William Watson contain R ” some Lines written in ichmond Park . But the loveliest poem associated with the district is the

Mr . . . A B ook o unnamed one by W E H enley , in his volume , f Ve r se s t wo , from which detached fragments are quoted on h - s t e title page of thi book .

A T E PL II . T HE OLD PA LA CE F R OM R ICH MO N D G R EEN

s H enry V I I . added till further to the palace , and ren dered it more sumptuous , and it became his chief residence . I n 1 49 2 a grand tournament was held on the green S ir outside the palace , and a combat between James Parker

and H ugh Vaughan resulted in the death of Parker. The palace of S hene up to this time was probably only a - a l rge building, half fortress and half country house , and a moated . I t would be r signs of its patchwork construction , a piece added here and there at the whim of the resident

monarch for the time being. But nothing remains to give 1 one an idea of its general appearance . I n 499 it was destroyed

by fire . s e t H enry V I I . immediately about erecting the new a p lace , the general configuration of which is familiar to us

from the numerous views that exist . The new building was 1 0 1 t s completed in 5 , and from that da e the place become R S known as ichmond instead of hene , H enry conferring upon it the name of the town in Yorkshire from which he derived

the title he bore before he ascended the throne . A description of the palace at this time , from a manu ’ i n 1 0 A st e ll s A s cript written 5 3 , printed in Grose and nti

uarian R . a q epertory , is of extreme interest The gre t hall

had portraits of the sovereigns of E ngland , including H enry

. w himself, between the windows The chapel was hung ith arras and cloth of gold ; its altar encrusted with go ld and e ffi ie s j ewels ; its walls painted with the g of royal saints .

From the fragment that remains , one gathers that the general “ as appearance , close at hand, must have been much the same

that of H ampton Court . But viewed from a little distance , - the tou t e n se mol e was singularly u n E nglish . A perfect forest

of turrets reared itself towards the river front, and the peculiar

cupolas which surmounted them had , as Dr . Garnett remarks , S a strong affinity to the aracenic type of architecture . The close relations then existing between the courts of England

and S pain may well have accounted for this . Of the views W n arde V i n c ke n boom t by H ollar, y y , and , probably tha of

I O t t H ollar gives the mos vivid presentmen of the river frontage . 1 The view by Buck , 7 3 7 , only shows a trifle more of the building than the still remaining fragment west of the green . ’ 1 1 0 Overton s plan of the town , 7 , gives some idea of the ground plan of the buildings , although a number of them had A then made way for buildings of the Queen nne type . a H enry V I I . est blished a library in the palace , and some items from his privy purse expenses show that he could be u lavish in directions where his taste demanded expendit re . “ ” F r e n shman 6 s 0d. H e pays To a for certain bokes , ff; 5 . 4 . ’ A n d F r e n shman 1 0 . 5 . a again , To a for printed bokes , £ 5 o . t s On another occasion , Quen in Paulet , the librarian , receive “ ” twenty pounds for bokes . The miscellaneous extracts from the expense books of

Mr . H enry and his Queen , printed by Chancellor, are of the highest interest . There are numerous disbursements to ex lore rs p , and to those who brought rarities to the King , in his book ; and to the bringers of delicacies for the table , or gay apparel in that of the Queen ; but all showing a spirit quite contrary to that penuriousness which has been so closely a associated with the n me of the seventh H enry .

H ere , during the interval between the death of her first u A d h sband , Prince rthur, and her marriage with the secon ,

r . A Prince H enry, afterwards H en y V I I I , Catharine of rragon

r 1 0 . . esided and here , in 5 9 , H enry V I I died H is will , dated R at ichmond , provides for his burial at Westminster in the A new chapel he had built adjoining the bbey , and orders the completion Ofit with funds he had provided for the purpose and the Prior of the Charte r H o use at S hene gets 500 marks for the use of the brotherhood . R H enry V I I I . resided constantly at ichmond, and here

a s . A n d he kept the first Christmas after his cce sion here , on ’ 1 1 1 A N ew Year s Day , 5 , his Queen , Catherine of rragon ,

son . u gave birth to a On the life of this infant h ng, perhaps , more than on that of any child born in or near Richmond up t o s. His su our own day rvival would , almost certainly, have

I I C —2 prevented the divorce of his parents , and altered the whole

u . co rse of the E nglish reformation H e died , however, in less than two months , and was buried at Westminster .

I n 1 5 2 3 the Emperor Charles V . visited H enry at Rich mond , with an immense retinue ; and in the same year

Cardinal Wolsey , having completed and presented to H enry R the palace of H ampton Court , ichmond Palace was assigned to Wolsey as a place of residence . ’ A fter Wols e y s death it was part of the provision bestowed u A pon nne of Cleves when the king divorced her.

. a his Edward V I chose it as his perm nent abode , but a a physici ns urged him to use H ampton Court inste d . Queen Mary was at Richmond when Wyatt ’s rebellion broke out , and here she spent three weeks of her honeymoon S he with Ph ilip of S pain . kept her sister Elizabeth a prisoner here for some time .

A z R . fter her accession , Eli abeth constantly used ich S he mond as a residence . received here the embassy from France with respect to her proposed marriage with the Duke S A . of njou , and E ric I V , K ing of weden , was her gues t here . A t Richmond the Queen received the Commissioners u M who came to urge the carrying out of the exec tion of ary ,

Queen of S cots . he 1 60 a S retired here in 3 in ill he lth , it having been thought the air of Richmond would prove beneficial to her ; but she died at the palace shortly afterwards ; and the last grand pageant connected with Richmond Palace was her funeral procession by water to Westminster.

J ames I . preferred Windsor, but his son , Prince H enry , a a made the p l ce his home , and here accumulated a fine col lection of pictures , which was , when he died at an early age , b i R di from the effects of athing in the r ver at ichmond , s p e rse d amongst other palaces of the king .

Three years the palace was deserted , and then Prince s i Charle came here to live , and also made a collection of p e

I 2 t u t u s res ; on his accession he almos discontin ed his visit , preferring Windsor as his father had done . s The parliament ordered his son , Prince Charles , afterward 1 6 1 Charles I I . , to reside here in 4 , with Duppa, his tutor . 1 6 a I n 49 , at the de th of the king , his collections here and elsewhere were sold ; and it was at this date that the su rvey was made from which most is to be learned of the fa actual extent of the palace before it began to ll into decay . M ’ t r . H i s or This survey is printed in full in Chancellor s y . 1 0 0 0 The great hall was feet long and 4 feet wide , the chapel 6 0 9 feet long and 4 feet wide . The round tower, called the had 1 2 Canted Tower , 4 steps , and an open gallery , adjoining ’ the Prince s garden was 2 00 feet long . The palace buildings altogether covered an area of about 1 0 acres . 1 6 0 I t was sold by the parliament in 5 , and purchased by S ir three gentlemen jointly, who in turn sold it to Gregory

N orton . N orton , having sat on the trial of the king and - a signed the death warrant , had to surrender his purch se to the crown on the restoration of King Charles I I . , but escaped with his life I t was subsequently given to the Queen Dowager for a 1 66 residence , but she left it in 5 , and it was then almost entirely neglected .

The children of the Duke of York (James I I . ) were placed here under the charge of Lady Frances Villiers , their governess , and the Duke , after his accession , is said to have executed some repairs . But from that date the royal family practically ceased to have any connection with the palace . M S ’ r . al By cott s courtesy , the writer was lowed to see the portion of the palace which he occupies— that part facing the green . The insertion of eighteenth century windows has A robbed the apartments of much of their air of antiquity . vaulted passage from the entrance hall , the handsome main w staircase , and the room over the archway , in hich Queen ’ Elizabeth s death is said to have taken place , are the chief t points of interes .

1 3 t The adjoining portion , facing the cour yard and forming a separate residence , is apparently the part referred to in ’ t t ' a letter of Disraeli s , quo ed by Dr . Garnet M a 2 1 8 y , 49 . M I have been to see etternich . H e lives on Rich mond Green , in the most charming house in the world , called — the Old Palace long library, gardens , everything worthy of him . I met there the Duchess of Cambridge and the Collo am R redos . I enchanted with ichmond Green , which , strange ’ to say , I don t recollect ever having visited before , often as I have been to R ichmond . I should like to let my house and

. u live there I t is still and sweet , charming alike in s mmer and winter . The part of the palace remaining is t hus described in the su rvey of 1 649 “ The Wardrobe and other offices consist of three fayr R anges of Building , embattled , and guttered with Lead , and t le d R fa r y in the oof, two stories high , lying round one y and 66 60 spacious Court , Yards long and Yards broad , all paved, c on t e yn in g very many good Rooms and Lodgings both on fa r the first and second storie , and divers garrets , and one y S Payr of strong Gates , leaded , arched , and battled , with tone

overhead , leading into the said Court from the Green lying ” before Richmond H ouse . Few objects are mentioned in the su rvey as remaining

in the rooms or courtyards . One wonders what became of S t the eleven tatues in the sides of the Grea H all , and of the fayr Ca se of Carved Work for a Payr of Organ s in the “ ” u chapel . The one very large Fo ntain of Lead in the u court, enclosed by the hall , chapel , and other b ildings , is ’ s s S t aid to be the one preserved at Lord Windsor s eat, .

E rvan s . , in Glamorganshire

1 4 R I C H MO N D GR E E N

H I S lies on the east side of the old palace , between it

and the Old Deer Park . I t has a curiously secluded air for a place so close to a main thoroughfare out of London , and even now retains , in the trees that border it , Mr . a rookery . The point of View selected by Way , known ” “ u as Greenside , is, the palace apart , the most picturesq e remnant of the old stateliness of the green . Row has Maid of H onour , which flanks the palace , greater dignity from the larger size of the houses and their fa uniformity . The l t Georgian fronts , the centering of the r doorways , the lawns that sepa ate them from the footpath , n and the contemporary tall iron raili gs and gates, all add to the austere aloofness whi c h is their main note . a I n Greenside we h ve a diversity of elevation and of detail ,

- a broken skyline , and an irregularity in the ground line from o one group standing out nearer to the r adway than another . S everal of the houses have elaborately -carved frames and copings to the doors. R I n the view and plan of ichmond by Overton , con t u rall 1 1 0 je c y dated 7 , which hangs in the Free Library , a number of the houses still standing can be identified , and

, one , of decided Tudor type which appears in the view , may as possibly be that now known Gothic H ouse, disguised by a modern stucco front .

I mmediately facing Greenside , on the site of the present

Pembroke V illas , formerly stood a house which was , at one a S ir , S S time , the residence of Ch rles H edges ecretary of tate S ir M u nder Queen A nne ; then of atthew Decker , who added I to it a large room for the entertainment of George . ; and

1 5 t t z la er s ill of Viscount Fit william , who formed here the col lection of books and pictures which he bequeathed to the an d U niversity of Cambridge , which is now housed in the i tz williarn M F useum in that city . A mongst the treasures of the collection are origi n al scores of works by H andel (Lord Fitz william was mainly n instrumental in fou ding the H andel Festivals) , a number of u beautifully illuminated manuscripts , and a small vol me known ’ ! as Queen Elizabeth s Virgina Book , written for her by Tallis , F a n b r a . Giles y, William Byrd, Dr Bull , and over twenty other composers . The best known of the old views of Richmond Palace and R ichmond H ill are engravings from paintings by Vine ke n boom in the Fitzwilliam Collection . the On the west side of the green , near old palace, f ormerly stood a house of Observant Friars , of the order of — M S t . . was Francis the Little Brothers, or Friars inor I t

1 . u founded in 499 by H enry V I I , and s ppressed, according

S 1 . to H ollinshed and tow , in 5 3 4 I n the survey of 1 649 a building adjoini n g the Palace is “ “ called The Friars, and is described as containing three h ” rooms below styrs , and four andsome rooms above styrs . ’ C A n I t was at that time used as a handler s shop . rare e graving shows that the F r iary was a building of considerable 1 6 extent , so that the part noticed in the 49 survey must have been a mere fragment of the original establishment . ’ Friar s Lane , which leads from the west side of the s green to the river, perpetuates the memory of this religiou house , and a modern residence adjoining , once the property of M “ ” the arquis of H ertford , is still known as The Old Friars . A t - the north west corner of the green , just where Old

Palace Lane runs down to the river, formerly stood the old R 1 6 — 6 ichmond Theatre , built in 7 5 for James Dance, for w hom , on the occasion of the opening of the theatre , Garrick n s wrote a prologue . Duri g its existence it had on its board su M u M ch actors as Garrick, acready, Charles Yo ng , unden,

1 6

M Quick , Liston , Buckstone , Charles athews , Edmund and Mrs S M M . V e st r is Charles Kean , iddons , iss Foote , adame , Mr s Fau c it M . J ordan , and H elen (Lady artin) who made her ’ a at éé here . I n 1 8 3 3 Edmund Kean died in the old house which adjoined the theatre , and which was , with it , demolished a few years since . H e was buried in the parish churchyard , and on the wall of the church , near the tower, is a monument to his memory , on which is sculptured a medallion portrait of t he great actor. A t - 2 1 2 the foot of a play bill , dated J une 9 , 79 , announcing ’ “ Mr the fifth night of . Quick s engagement as S crub in m e ’ B eaux S t r ata e m t he g , is following note “ I n consequence of many reports of Robberies said to ’ ’ M a well ar m a have been Committed , the anager has provided A T O o E /z t M e n P R L f ig , who, together with Others from the P aol i o O i oe n on P l a N z al s fl , will constantly atte d , y g , on the s everal Roads leading to S oattendance at the little old theatre was in those days accompanied by perils that do not threaten the visitors to its modern successor on the Little Green .

Facing the Little Green , on the site where now stands a large modern house of uninteresting character, appears , in

1 1 0 . the 7 view , a fine Elizabethan mansion, labelled E sq i ’ Mi ch ll s . Other houses of architectural importance are shown in this view , both on the Little Green and on the east all side of the Green itself, but those at present standing are of comparatively modern construction , as are those on the north side . A t S f s the corner of Duke treet , where now the Gas O fice s Re v tand , was formerly a school of some repute , kept by the . a Charles Delafosse . H is most not ble pupil was R ichard t S ir R d Francis Bur on , afterwards ichar , the famous scholar and traveller, and one of the heroic figures of the Victorian age . Whilst at the school he and his brother lived in one of R w the hous es in Maid of H onour o .

I 7

TH E A R S U R R M P I H C H C H , I C H ON D

H E first notice of the existence of a ch u rch at Richmond 1 wa occurs in the year 3 3 9 , at which time there s a “ ” Chapel at S chene .

MS . s I n the book of expense of H enry V I I . there appears this entry Given to ye Parish Clerke of hmon de Ric . , towards ye building of his new Church , £5 M The Princess argaret , eldest daughter of H enry V I I . and Elizabeth of York , was formally betrothed to King S 1 0 2 . a James I V of cotland in J anuary , 5 , in the Chapel t S e was s h ne , but this almo t undoubtedly the private chapel attached to the Palace . s Of the original building but a very small portion remain . t The ower is probably the oldest fragment , and it has been so groomed in restoration as to lose most of its appearance of antiquity . I t is of stone and flint . was The chancel is evidently of Tudor date , and pro bably part of the edifice towards the cost of which H enry V I I . contributed £ 5 . I t is of red brick , with the black brick diaper, th e characteristic of period , still plainly discernible . The church is said to have been “ enlarged and much ” i 1 0 u mproved in 7 5 , and it was do btless at this date that the old nave and aisles disappeared to make way for the some what dreary looking block of buildings which now extends between the tower and the chancel . A 1 6 0 1 0 1 bu t steeple is spoken of in 3 , and again in 7 , no View exists in which any superstructu re to the t ower is shown .

1 9 D— 2 The church and churchyard are fu ll of interesting monu ments ; in the church may be noted the following 1 Mr One , dating from about 5 74, to the memory of . “ R Re moovi n WardrO e obert Cotton , Officer of the g pp of

B e dd s unto Queen Marie . Memorials to S i r George Wright ( 1 6 2 3 ) and his wife a th t to the lady having figures of herself, the knight , three sons , and four daughters upon it . “ Lad e M ir One to y argaret Chudleigh , daughter of S " 6 2 8 1 . William Courtney , of Powderham , “ Mas w r it e One to y , ye vertuous wife of Thomas J ay , war re s M m is sa . Co r E sq , in these unhappy his ajesties y A rm s a e 1 6 6 . Gener l for provisions for all his y of horse , 4 R v e . Three to the memory of the George Wakefield ,

1 6 R e v . 1 80 1 Re v 7 7 , the Gilbert Wakefield , , and the . 1 80 6 Thomas Wakefield , . Thomas Wakefield held the R living of ichmond for thirty years, but his brother Gilbert is the better known of the two . B rou n cke r f One to H enry, Viscount , cof erer to King ’ 6 B r ou n cke r s 1 8 . Charles I I . , 7 Viscount brother William R S was the first president of the oyal ociety . A n n Mrs . M To ary Yates , the celebrated tragic actress , of and to Lady Diana Beauclerk , the friend H orace Walpole and Dr. J ohnson , there are also memorials . I n the churchyard the most notable memorial is that to R M 1 80 2 . D r . J ohn oore , who died at ichmond in H e was known in his day as a writer of some repute , but it is of more interest nowadays to record that he was the father of the S ir M S celebrated J ohn oore , whose burial in pain , during the Peninsular War, is the subject of one of the best known of modern E nglish poems . 1 8 I n the churchyard were also laid to rest , in 7 4 , the Tli e S eason s remains of James Thomson , the poet of , to whose memory a brass tablet , with an inscription , was erected in 1 79 2 by the Earl of Buchan . e R Thomson r sided in a cottage in the Kew Foot oad,

2 0

u e which s ccessive additions expanded into a spacious hous . I t was eventually still further enlarged and converted into a R hospital for ichmond . ’ The poet s rooms were for a long time shown to visitors , with one or two articles of furniture which he had used habitually ; and a small summer house in the garden had an Mr s s . s ub e inscription placed above it by Boscawen , who “ quently occupied the house ! H ere Thomson sung the S ” easons and their change . Thomson was often visited here by Pope and other notabilities , including Quin , the actor, concerning whom it is recorded that the poet ’s housekeeper objected to his visits on the ground that he encouraged her master to drink . The most interesting entry in the parish register is that M 2 1 6 80—1 recording the baptism , on arch oth , , of H ester, daughter of Edward J ohnson , the lady who was afterwards , “ ” S z under the name of tella, to be immortali ed by Dean S wift . M u is t S M . The ch rch dedica ed to t . ary agdalene

2 1

R I C H MON D B R I DGE

H I S bridge , the demolition of which has been threatened 1 for some time past , was begun in 7 74 , the first stone

being laid by the H on . H enry H obart , and was com

le t e d 1 . p and opened for public use in December, 7 7 7 I t con sists of five arches , which span the river to the extent of 00 r about 3 feet , and there are several smaller ones at eithe s A s is end to make the approaches les precipitous . it is , it f is not an easy bridge for vehicular tra fic . The centre arch — twenty fi ve feet high by sixty feet wide . The whole is built M of stone , and the architects were essrs . Paine and Couse . M I f with aurice , the author of the long descriptive poem on R ichmond , one cannot say

T e e Att c e e an ce an d st e n t un e h r i l g r g h it , one may at least say

“ ’ An d a o o t on s c a m s th e e e s de f ir pr p r i h r y light .

u The bridge is extremely gracef l , the outline of the parapet broken by the semicircular bays and one cannot help wishing , as one did about Kew Bridge , which has disappeared since

Mr . Way published his drawing of it last year, that it might be left standing for foot passengers , and its successor for the fi heavier traf c erected on another site . The bridge replaced a ferry which had existed for up wards of three centuries on that spot , and in the books of expenses of H enry V I I I . and the Princess Mary there are m R frequent entries of pay ents for ferriage at ichmond . Three sites were proposed for the bridge when it s erection was being discussed . One was at the end of Water

2 3 S Lane , and so in a direct line with George treet , the main thoroughfare of the town one at H eron Co urt and the third the place in which it actually stands .

The bridge cost f, most of which was raised on 1 8 a Tontine share s . I n 5 9 the l st survivor of the original

the . tontine having died , bridge was declared open toll free - The old toll houses were subsequently removed , but an engraving exists of the bridge , looking across to Twickenham , in which they appear . I n the R ichmond Free Library is preserved one of the old leather satchels for money used by a toll keeper .

The ironwork of the lamps , etc . , until recent years , har mon i z e d perfectly with the structure , but some modern lamps have been added which have nothing of the elegance of the older work , and which strike a j arring note .

On the Twickenham shore , flanking the piece of the bridge that carries it on to the level of the main road , is a h magnificent row of poplars , whic is a prominent feature of the landscape from whatever standpoint regarded . I t is to be hoped that , whatever be the fate of the bridge , these poplars may be spared , more especially as the rural character of the road a little further beyond the bridge has already been dissipated by the erection of a row of shops . ’ The bridge appears in one of Turner s pictures , and the M R ferry that preceded it in a picture by arco icci , which is ’ G arn e tt s reproduced in Dr . monograph .

2 4

TH E TRU MP ETI NG H O U S E A S S I N G from the Green through the gateway of the

old Palace into the courtyard , this house is seen in the - “ further left hand corner . I t is designated The Old

Palace also , and of course occupies a part of the site of the demolished build ings of Tudor times . The name of The Trumpeting H ouse is supposed to have been given to it on account oftwo life - si z ed statues in stone which formerly stood on either side of the doorway , and are now stored in the cellars of the house . They are described ’ as the figures of two boys in servitors dresses , blowing trumpets , but the trumpets appear to have become detached Mr (from the drawing of the statues which appears in . Chan ’ ’ c e llor s H i story ofR i okrn on a ) before the figu res were removed from their original stations . From the courtyard the house has no particular claim to ’ Mr n . atte tion , but its front , which appears in Way s drawing , O seen from Cholmondeley Walk , just pposite Twickenham re d Park , is stately and impressive . I t is of brick , which time has mellowed , with stone dressings , a singularly harmonious g reen slate roof, and an immense portico supported by stone f e columns . The ef ect produc d by the whole is more commonly seen in America than in E ngland . Many of the handsome old country houses of the colonial period have very similar elevations , and the taste for them has of late years revived to such an extent that modern houses are being erected of the same character . Mr The Trumpeting H ouse was built by a . H ill , brother Mrs A . M of the celebrated bigail H ill , afterwards asham , who S s s was constantly intriguing against arah J ennings , fir t Duches

2 5 M t of arlborough , for the main influence in the governmen of

Queen A nne . I t is curious that a connection of one of Queen A nne ’s favourites should have obtained a grant of the site , as in her younger days the Queen herself wish ed to acquire the building which then stood there for a residence , but owing to the existence of an unexpired lease was deterred from carrying out her proj ect .

The grounds , which are of about three acres in extent, are handsomely wooded , and amongst other trees are a fine cedar of Lebanon and some ancient yews . a t e a F cing the river, a garden house , or house , is con is structed out of a fragment of the old Palace , and behind it an old archway , with an iron gate finely wrought in a design of roses, etc . , and probably dating from the time of H enry

V I I . Between The Trumpeting H ouse and Old Palace Lane A s ill u S i r R stands g H ouse , b ilt by obert Taylor, a dis t i n uishe d S ir A s ill g architect of the period , for Charles g , Lord

M 1 8 . ayor of London in 7 5 The house is built of stone , and Vi t r u vi u s B ri tan n i en s in , where an engraving of it in its “ a as original st te appears ; it is described of the Tuscan order , after a design by Palladio, remarkable for its chaste and simple elegance . Between The Trumpeting H ouse and Friar’s Lane stands the house known as Queensberry H ouse . The present building 1 8 1 dates only from 3 , but it superseded a residence nearer the river (of which a few arches remain in the grounds) , which 1 0 8 was erected in 7 , or thereabouts , by the Earl of Chol m on de le - y , from which personage this piece of the river front acquired its name of Cholmondeley Walk . From the Earl of Cholmondeley it passed through various hands , and eventually into those of the Duke of Queensberry, “ ” popularly known as Old Q . H e transferred here from his A mesbury seat all his pictures and furniture , and entertained t S t here the witty George elwyn , who was almos domesticated

2 6 T E V PL A I . T HE T R U M PET I N G HOU S E RICH MO N D

i n the house , H orace Walpole , the Duke of Clarence (after wards William the Prince of Wales (afterwards George Mrs itz he rbe rt u and . F , with inn merable other notable people . u s I t was here that , s rveying the river from his window , he made the petulant answer, that has been so often quoted , to T “ the praises bestowed on the hames by his friends , What is there to make so much of in the Thames ! I am quite ! weary of it ; there it goes , flow , flow , flow , always the same A mong the art treasures of the Duke was the tapestry which had decorated the Court of Chancery during the Chan ce ll rshi o p of the great Lord Clarendon .

— 2 7 E 2

TH E R E D LI O N I N N

H IS t Re d S inn is the mos notable building in Lion treet , a thoroughfare running south of the ch u rchyard to ’ H ill S treet . From Overton s view (about Re d S Lion treet appears to have been almost as much used for .

S . traffic , at one time , as George treet The View shows “ horsemen and carriages , approaching from the road from ” the M Clapham , and diverging at the point in arsh Gate , whence either George S treet or Re d Lion S treet could be

reached , in the direction of the latter . This seems to show Re d S z that Lion treet was a recogni ed approach to the Ferry .

I t was undoubtedly more direct , but one marvels , passing t hrough it nowadays, that so narrow a road should have been

chosen when a wider one offered itself.

Going riverwards , a little after one has passed the Re d churchyard , the Lion stands back on the left of the

street . ’

Mr . I t is , as Way s drawing shows , a building of some - a antiquity , with its weather bo rded front , red tiled roof,

- dormer window, massive chimney stack , and its sign post on

the edge of the causeway .

But the legend inscribed between the windows , that it 1 20 was established in the year of grace 5 , is a specious

one . A Re d Lion I nn probably was established in that year, but the year in which the license was transferred to the

present building , though it is not precisely known , is con d 1 je ct u re to have been no longer ago than 7 5 5 . ’ Prior to that date the inn , which , judging from Overton s

view , must have been one of the most , if not the most impor

2 9 S t tant in the town , occupied the site facing George tree and S t u 1 2 H ill treet , on which are now erec ed n mbers , , 3 , 4 , and S to 5 , George treet , with , of course, a frontage the present

R e d Lion S treet in the rear . ’ From Overton s view one gathers that it was in the u Tudor style of architect re , probably of red brick with stone A dressings . handsome pointed arch , which opens from the S - George treet front , probably led to the regulation inn yard in which the accommodation for horses and carriages was “ ” provided . Two large timber gallows , with swinging signs S suspended , crossed H ill treet outside the inn . I t is the handsomest building in this part of the to wn h ’ which is s own in Overton s View , and one can only sigh as one looks at its modern successors . Mr . S s . Behind the present N o 4 , George treet , ays 1 8 t h its Chancellor i n 94, the kitchen of e inn , with ample

- fi re . place , is still to be seen E ven i n P ost F 2 8 1 6 a s I n the g of ebruary , 7 3 , ppears thi advertisement N otic e i s h ere by gi ve n t hat th e old R e d Lion I n n at Ric hmon d i n S u e ke e n u d e P e uke Mak e oft at ac e i s n ow rr y , pt by H ry F g r, r r h Pl O e n e d w e e G e n e m e n ad e s an d ot e s w be e n t e t a n e d in t h e p , h r tl , L i , h r ill r i ” b e st man n e r .

1 6 8 Crown e was R I n 3 , William here created ouge Dragon A Mr . a Pursuivant of rms in Ordinary , and Dugd le was made

Blanch Lyon Pursuivant at the same time . The ceremony, u Mr which is fully described , from an authentic so rce, in . ’ ’ H i stor o R i elz mon a Chancellor s y f , took place before the Earl M S ir arshall as President , in the presence of J ohn Borow, A S ir Garter King of rms ; William Le Neve , Clarencieux ir S t A S . King of rms ; and H enry George , Norroy King of A R rms and the York , ichmond , and Chester H eralds . u I t incl ded a great number of obeisances , but the main ceremony incident to the investiture seems to have been the pouring by the Earl Marshall of a bowl of wine over the head — u u of each of the newly created Purs ivants in t rn .

3 0 PL A T E V II . T HE R ED LIO N IN N R ICHMO N D

There must have been s ome idea akin tobapt is m in thi s u proced re , because the wine was poured on the head as the M Cr eamns Earl arshall pronounced the word , and gave the new P ursu ivant his heraldic name .

3 1

R I C H MON D A LMS H OU S ES

’ Mr d H E Almsho uses shown in . Way s rawing are thos e in the S heen Road erected in 1 7 5 7 at the expense of M the isses H oublon, who resided at Ellerker H ouse , R ichmond H ill . The only noticeable featu re of the group of bu ildings is t he - s o t iron entrance gate , which forms importan a part of M ’ r . Way s view . R u t but ichmond is rich in fo ndations of this charac er, t hey are either of a date which deprives them of any archi t e ct ural s l intere t , or, when of older foundation , the origina buildings have been demolished to make way for m ore recent ones . I n the Vineyard opposite the Catholic Church are the l 1 6 m M a mshouses originally erected in 95 by H u phrey ichel , 8 1 1 6 6 8 . 1 0 m who died in 9 , aged 4 I n , these , having beco e

d u 000 . S ix dilapi ated , were rebuilt at an expense of abo t £ 3 1 8 additional hou ses were erected in 5 8 . ’ N ear to Michel s almshouses are those founded in 1 66 1 B u B W who by rian D ppa , afterwards ishop of inchester, s u R perintended the education , at ichmond Palace , of Prince m Charles , afterwards Charles I I . The endow ent is derived s from a farm at S hepperton . The inmates have a signed to t hem on Christmas E ve a fine bar n -door fowl and a pou nd of b and 1 . 1 s . . acon , are allowed ! ! s monthly Over the entrance “ D e et Car o/o V ti va Ta n l o o a. are these words ! e —I will pay the vows which I made to God In my trou ble an in sc rip t w u n n ion hich , tho gh combini g the devotion to God and Ki g w h z R s s e t hich c aracteri ed the oyalist of those time , mu t y yield the palm for s implicity and directness to one which

3 3 appears on the front of the almshouses erected at the back of S 1 66 S ir ilver H all , I sleworth , a mile or two away , in 4, by

K t . u Thomas I ngram , , Chancellor of the D chy of Lancaster , E x D on a D ei the tablet on which bears merely the words, "

D eo. B ishop Duppa must have enjoyed the confidence and d st s . affection of his king to the fulle , for Charle I I visite him R M 2 2 n d 1 66 2 at ichmond on arch , , a few hours before his death . A djoining the Duppa Almhouse s are those founded in 1 600 S ir by George Wright , commonly known as Queen ’ z A s R A s Eli abeth s lmshouses , doubtles because of the oyal rm s culptured in the stone work . The original site of these almshous es was in the Lower R u oad adjoining Camborne H o se , but they were removed to s i n 1 6 their pre ent position 7 7 , and rebuilt by subscription on Mr a plot of ground given by a . William Turner . A s s nother group of alm hou es , of more recent foundation , ’ s S R o is that known as H ickey , in the heen oad , s me distance A us beyond the H oublon lmsho es depicted in the drawing , s and on the opposite side of the road . The existing building

1 8 but was u 1 2 . date only from 34, the charity fo nded in 7 7

3 4 AT E V PL III . T HE HOU B LO N A LMS H O U S E S I N S H EE N RO A D RICH MO N D

R I C H MON D H I LL

H IS u ma thoro ghfare , which , for all practical purposes , y be said to ru n from the end of George S treet to the R s gates of ichmond Park, is be t known to the world at the part known as The Terrace .

From this point the prospect is one of unsurpassed beauty , with its wealth of woodland lighted up by the long sinuous

l . n ine of the Thames I f we cannot , with Thomso , talk of a bou n dl ess landscape , H arrow and Windsor can both be seen u nder favourable atmospheric conditio ns . ’ Mr . Way s drawing was made before the trees had begun n V to put on their spri g dress , and is the only iew from the

H ill known to me which is not a leafy one . Turner painted of it a picture which he exhibited in

S ir R Joshua eynolds , too , painted it ; one of his few ’ i r 1 8 2 1 landscapes . S J oshua s picture was sold in with Lady ’ Thoman d s S R collection , and purchased by amuel ogers, the ’ - A t ll 1 . R co e c banker poet , for 5 5 guineas the sale of ogers

1 8 6 to 0 . tion in 5 , its value , a dealer, had risen to 43 guineas Hofian d painted several pictures of the view , the most ’ notable being now in the H all of the Grocers Company . A mongst other artists who have depicted it, have been P . de

Wint and G . Barrett .

The place exercised a wonderful fascination , too , upon ' i be s ide s ar t s ts . others , u n Vancouver, the circ m avigator, who now lies buried in “ ! I n Petersham Churchyard , said all my travels , I never u clapt eyes on a more beautiful spot than this . H ere wo ld I ! ” live , and here would I die — 3 5 F 2 u Byron , familiar with I taly and Greece, prono nced it A m brosial . A n d M M s Lady ary Wortley ontagu , writing to her ister 1 2 ! x R in 7 3 , says E cept in the Elysian shades of ichmond , ’ ” there s no such thing as love and pleas ure . s r The wooded character of the cene y is , however, of quite modern development . w 1 6 8 I n a Vie by H ollar, dated 3 , from about the site of S tar an d Gar te r the present , the palace stands out as plainly as if it were only a couple of fields off there are practically ’ A n d a no trees to screen it . the s me may be said of Grignion s eighteenth century engraving . Close to the Park Gates is the famous hotel W e S tar an d Gar te r , one of the most celebrated in the U nited K ing 1 8 dom . From humble beginnings in 7 3 , when the first inn — on the site was built an interesting drawing by the antiquary Grose is preserved in the British Museum— i t has attained w its present palatial proportions . Viewed from the T icke n it ham side , rises out of the wooded slope of Petersham Common somewhat after the fashion of a German castle but its catering is more satisfactory than its architecture . A ’ R few yards down the Queen s oad, just opposite , is an ’ be L ss R i cn n a l w as T a mo H i l . h inn kno n of The song, wit its refrain , ’ I d c own s e s n toc a h e r m n e r r ig ll i , S we e ass ofR c mon d t l i h Hill , is known far and wide ; but the mystery attaching to the authorship has never been satisfactorily settled . One thing i ! s certain the pretty ballad was never written , as some have M st . ated , by King George I I I any writers aver that it was R s-s R at ichmond in Yorksh ire , and not at the Thame ide ich mond , that the Lass of the Ballad lived . S tar an d Gar te r The next house below the , on the sam e S ir R s s ide of the hill , is Wick H ouse , built for J oshua eynold by S i r William Chambers . I t was a s ingularly unadorned and u nattractive house for a great artist . The carcase of the

3 6 PL AT E I X . V I EW F ROM T HE T E RRA C E G A RD EN S RICH MO N D

“ At R c mon d N ew W e s a Con c er ofMu s c ot voca an d i h ll , t i , b h l n st um e n a w be e o me d on Mon d a n e t at n oon t h e n c a i r t l , ill p rf r y x , , by pri ip l

an d fr . s an d t h e e s oc e s . om se d n e w o th d a Mr ank s b b t v i C po e y by . Fr " Th e n n son gs will be pri t e d a d sold t he re . The Wells appear to have reached the height of their ul 1 0 pop arity in 7 5 , then to have decreased in public favour. I n 1 7 7 5 the property was bought and the Well s closed by the M O who isses H oublon , residents at Ellerker H ouse pposite, found the mixed gatherings at the Wells disturbi n g to their u q ietude .

The Vineyard , which branches townwards towards the bottom of the H ill , points to a day when it was not thought impossible to produce home -grown wine that should be worth A t 1 86 drinking. Prospect Lodge , in this road, died , in 5 , t William H arvey, a pupil of B ewick , born at N ewcas le in

1 796 . R Row Ormond oad, or , still lower down and nearly - opposite the B ridge, is a row of eighteenth century houses , similar to those pictured and described els ewhere in thi s book . I ts name is all that remains to recall the connection R 1 1 with ichmond , until his impeachment , in 7 5 , of the Duke of Ormond . 1 8 1 H oflan d H ere , in 4 , lived T . C . , the painter, and his H flan d an d o . Hofl wife , Barbara was a great angler, and b R the facilities for fishing pro ably attracted him to ichmond . “ e 1 8 M H e wrot , in 3 9, Thirty years ago at ortlake, and be R tween I sleworth and ichmond , I have seen from ten to

. Mr fla twenty salmon taken at a draught s . Ho n d was a Tee on o a G e n i us popular writer of tales, and her story , S f , still has its admirers,

Theophilus and Colley Cibber had a theatre close by , on 1 6 e the H ill , which in 7 5 , no licens being obtainable , was “ z S adverti ed as a Cephalic nuff Warehouse, where , having ou presumably made your purchase of snuff, y were admitted s without hire , gain , or reward , to public rehear als of the pupil s of the histrionic academy .

3 8 u ust the H eron (formerly H erring) Co rt , j below Bridge , was formerly the site of the Royal H otel . I t is a beautiful little nook , standing aloof from the heavy traffic of the u thoroughfare , and its handsome ho ses have a frontage to the river. A s u little below , the new municipal building have s per s e de d the old Castle H otel , the assembly rooms of which often received as fashionable a crowd as those of Bath . Between the new Castle H otel and Water Lane is the “ f s M so amou aid of H onour shop , where the cheesecake called has been sold for over a century and at the corner of King S treet ( once known as F u rbelow S treet) and Water F e at/t e r s Lane are the buildings of the once famous I nn .

The assembly room and other apartments , including the original staircase, are still in existence , and form part of the

s 1 2 S . exten ive premises in the rear of and , K ing treet

3 9

W H IT E LODG E

H I S house stands in Richmond Park bet ween the S heen R t Gate and the obin H ood Gate , on a sligh elevation

and with wooded surroundings . 1 2 8 When George I I . , about 7 , made over the old Lodge ir R S . to obert Walpole , the White Lodge was built H is u s Queen , Caroline , freq ently lived here , and ubsequently A their daughter, the Princess melia . R R The Princess , as anger of ichmond Park , claimed the right to exclude from the Park everyone who was unprovided with a ticket of admission , and it was owing to the strenuous R exertions of John Lewis , a brewer of ichmond , who brought an action at law against the Princess, in which her claims R were disallowed , that the public rights of way in ichmond

Park were established . r The Princess , disgusted at the result of the trial , esigned

1 6 2 . her rangership , and in 7 Lord Bute succeeded her The house is said to have fallen into decay at this time , but the decay must have been more decorative than structural , for in d 1 76 7 the wings were ad ed .

George I I I . improved it considerably when he bestowed u A it pon a favourite minister, ddington , afterwards Lord

S . A idmouth view of the house at this time , reproduced in ’ C R ionin on zl -ou Tn fn es . a sur Dr arnett s , shows the house rounded by a formal garden . A 1 8 Pitt visited ddington here for the last time in 0 5 . But the most notable of Lord S idmouth ’s visitors at the

White Lodge was N elson , a letter of whose, accepting the invitation , is extant . H is visit took place six weeks before

4 1 the battle of Trafalgar, and on a table still preserved he drew , ’ with wine , the plan by which he proposed to break the enemy s line , as in the event he actually did . H er Majesty the Queen resided in retirement at the

White Lodge for about three weeks , subsequently to the s death of her mother, the Duche s of Kent and the Prince of

Wales occupied the house for a short time before his marriage. The contents of the house were purchased by H er Majesty after the death of her aunt , the Duchess of Gloucester, who had resided there . For some years it was the residence of the Duke and

Duchess of Teck , and it is owing to their occupancy that the

White Lodge has become so familiar a name in the district .

From this centre , until her sudden and lamented death , the

M ! Princess ary , as she was commonly called by the older R inhabitants of ichmond and Kew, who had been accustomed

to see her among them from her childhood onwards , directed all the numerous charitable and philanthropic movements with

which she was connected H ere she died , and from here her

body was borne to Windsor for interment in the royal vaults . But the greatest event in the history of the White Lodge 2 rd 1 8 took place on J une 3 , 94 , when Prince Edward of York was born whilst the Duchess of York was staying there on a

visit to her mother . A s Dr. Garnett remarks , in former times the Prince

would have been known , from the place of his birth , as Edward R of ichmond , in the same way that the fifth H enry was H arry

of Monmouth .

The Park owes its existence to Charles 1 . Prior to 1 6 s about 3 4 it was an extensive tract , partly wa te , known as S hene Chase . Charles , who seems to have cared little for R ichmond as a residence , showed an extraordinary tenacity u of p rpose in carrying out his design , once he had entered

u . pon it, of enclosing this tract as a royal hunting ground s H e surrounded it with a wall , and it appears , from petition s s which till exi t , that the rights of private owners were some

4 2 AT E PL X . T HE W HI T E LO DG E RICH MO N D

what unceremoniou sly overridden by the king in his de te rm i nation to form the park . Compensation was made , but it seems to have been in some cases very inadequate . Park was presented to the City of London by Par _ The liam e n t s at the culmination of the great rebellion , and re tored de acto as to Charles I I . upon his becoming king f as well

’

I I . s Wild turkeys were kept in the Park in George time , s but eventually destroyed because they attracted poacher , and so caused deadly affray s with the keepers .

The deer are still a delightful feature of the Park, familiar t oall visitors . A heronry , too , still exists, probably the nearest to O London , and the birds can ccasionally be observed flying across the town , probably to Kew Gardens .

43 0—2

G EO RGE E LI OT ’S H O U S E AT R I C H MO ND

A R K S HO T runs from the corner of the little green R to the K ew Foot oad . Probably the first intruder on its old seclusion and S R repose was the outh Western ailway, which has its old s tation close at hand . The row of stiff but stately eighteenth century dwellings has been rudely interfered with by the cutting away of the lower storey of one of the houses to afford ingress to a place of worship and , later, by the erection of the Public Baths , which have a frontage not in harmony with the earlier buildings . 8 Par kshot S 1 8 To N o . , , in eptember, 5 5 , came George

Eliot and George Lewes to reside . A lready become a considerable person age in literary circles by her work as translator, and her connection with R an influential review , it was not till she made ichmond her home that George Eliot entered upon the work by which her — name has become familiar the world over the work of t h e novelist , “ ' Mr S he s . . and her husband , write Fred Turner in the H ome Cou n ti es M a az i n e u g , had freq ently discussed her qu alifications for su ch an undertaking ; she had a wonderful power for descriptive writing, and she had wit but her husband was scarcely convinced of her ability to give expres sion to the deeper feelings of human nature , or to present her matter in dramatic form . H owever, an attempt was made , and on the occasion of a stroll in Richmond Park she an n ou n ce d to Lewes that she had actually written part of a “ ad R A s ! S e v . s tory , to be called The Fortunes of the mo ” u i s B arton . When they ret rned to the r apartment she pro

45 duce d t as far as it the manuscript , and read over the s ory , “ e r was written , to the intense satisfaction of h husband , We “ an both cried over it, she relates , d then he came up to me ‘ and kissed me , saying , I think your pathos is better than B lack your fun . The story was compl eted and appeared in ’ wood s M a az i n e 1 8 g , for J anuary , 5 7 , and ultimately became the initial tale of the series known as S ce n es fr om Cle ri cal

The n om de g ue r r e was so carefully maintained that even Mr h . o her publisher , J o n Blackwood , was ignorant fher real d Par kshot name or sex till introduce to her at her home , ' 2 2 1 8 George Eliot s journal , October , 5 7 , records the ’ A dam B eae h i commencement of , w ich , w th the exception of

v . e . part of olume ii , was written h re I n one of her letters she remarks We enjoy ou r new lodgings very much ; everything is the pi nk of order and S o cleanliness . the great novelist was more in touch with A the domestic methods of her own unt Pullet, than with “

Mrs . those of J ellyby, as described by Dickens . H er journ als contain frequent allusions to Richmond

H ill and Park , and the varying aspects of their scenery . R n u 1 8 . George Eliot left ichmond i Febr ary , 59 s t e s There i a touch of irony about h thought that Lewe , a man of considerable scientific attainments , was himself also a writer of novels long since forgotten . P arkshot R A t . s No 7 , resided the ight H on . C . P . Villier , a notable Parliamentary figure in his day . ’ Mr S was N s . 8 a d ince . Way s drawing made o 7 , , n 9 , Parksh t s o have been demoli hed ,

46 PL AT E X I . G E O RG E ELIOT ’S HOU SE PA RKS HO T RICH MON D

TW I C KE N HA M

n W IC K E N HA M . is not me tioned in the Doomsday

Book ; it was undoubtedly included in I sleworth . I n 1 0 1 Tw cke n ham as a record dated 3 , y is mentioned

a hamlet appendant to the manor of I sleworth . Various grants of land In Twickenham for religious p ur

S . poses , by axon kings , are recorded The name has been spelled in innumerable ways ; but Twit t an ham Twit n am the pronunciation (or ) , which even a now survives amongst the older inh bitants , seems to have been the most generally received . The town is mentioned a in the Cartul ry of Christ Church , Canterbury , now in the

Twittan ham . Bodleian Library at Oxford , as of The most notable feature the district , apart from its c historical associations , is its wooded haracter ; and amongst a its trees , it is specially remark ble for the great number of d a o weeping willows , Lombardy poplars , and ce ars of Leb n n c n am s which it o t . The outskirts of London generally are famous for thei r M cedars , which are said to rival in perfection those on ount Lebanon itself ; but in n o part of t h e environs of the metro

polis are finer cedars to be met with than at Twickenham . ’ s The tree was first planted in E ngland about Charles I I .

t Im e .

’ i is r r The weeping W llows , it stated , we e int oduced by A ‘ Mr . at a Vernon , a Turkey merchant leppo , who resided

at Twickenham Park in the eighteenth century , and who imported a graft ofwillow which became the“ original of all A the weeping willows in our gardens . nother story is , that M e s Pope carried off from arble H ill , wher a pre ent from

47 S a S p in had come for Lady uffolk , a few pieces of stick was which he noticed wh ile the present being unpacked , and planting them , succeeded in making one grow , whence the others were all derived . M Of the origin of the Lombardy poplars , iss H awkins R relates , in her anecdotes , that the E arl of ochford told her e t father that he brought the first sapling from Turin , ti d o S he i n . s l e the pole of his carriage admired a g poplar, but says “ it is no subject of merriment to have fifteen of them ’ — pl anted bet ween one s windows and a south western view of one of the finest curves on the Thames . The information available about the v arious subjects Mr W a h as selected by , y for his drawings been printed a separ tely under the titles of the drawings . H ere are appended sketches of notable houses and their occupants not

. t e so dealt with Of these , the place with h greatest title to fame is K N A n TWI C E H M PA R K . O ly a modern residence of no particular interest now stands here , and a great. portion of the l original grounds has been covered with large suburban vi las . S 1 1 1 1 omewhere in its borders stood , from 4 4 to 4 3 , the S t S S t . A ugustinian monastery of . aviour and B ridget of V S . yon , founded by H enry , the only religious house in

E ngland which followed the rule of S t . Bridget . I t was 1 1 n ow S removed , in 43 , to the site where stands yon H ouse,

I sleworth , and continued there till the suppression of the a 1 a a mon steries in 5 3 9 . I n the p rish chest of Twickenh m are ! an two deeds one with a richly illuminated initial letter, d t he conventual seal attached , referring to grants by and to the monastery . There was a lease of Twickenham Park in the Bacon 1 1 family as early as 5 7 4 , and in 5 9 5 a furthe r lease for - E s twenty one years was granted to Francis Bacon , q , and

J ohn H ibberd . ' 1 2 Francis Bacon retired here in 5 9 , from Gray s I nn , “ u u s pon an o tbreak of a pe tilential distemper in London ,

48

’ V i n cke nboom s it z william M u painting, now in the F use m at Cambridge , shows the prospect from Twickenham Park , R with the view of ichmond Palace , at a period not long sub ’ sequent to Bacon s departure . There are boats , swans , horses drinking , a ferry boat plying, and a morris dance in progress , making of the stiff, hard painting an interesting memorial of the period. A u later resident was L cy , Countess of Bedford , cele ’ bra d te by J ohn Donne s verses . Donne always call s the ” place Twickn am Garden . S S ir ubsequent occupants were Lady Essex , William t u S i r n H arring on , the Co ntess of H ome , Thomas Nott , H e ry

M . S urray , Esq , J ohn Lord B erkeley of tratton (J ohn Evelyn ’ visited the place during Lord Berkeley s absence in H olland , f his to look a ter interests) the Earl of Cardigan , the Earl of

A s . lbemarle , Thoma Vernon , Esq (formerly secretary to the M M Duke of onmouth) , the Earl of ountrath , the Duchess of M s S ir ontro e, the Duchess of N ewcastle (who told J ohn was H awkins , when he expressed regret that she no longer “ at S ir Twickenham , I was sorry to leave it , but indeed ,

J ohn , I inhabited the old house till the boards of the floor played u nder my feet like the keys of a Lord

S ir A . Frederick Cavendish , and William bdy 1 8 1 The old house was demolished about 7 . A part of the park was sold su bsequently to the Earl of ’ ” illis M Cass S t . , and from his villa here , argaret s , the district now so called derives its name. Cassillis M The house of the Earl of , afterwards arquis of A was ilsa, taken down by Lord K ilmorey when he lived in the hou se which i s now the Naval S chool . The popular author Madam S arah Grand describes this school in her “ ” novel , The Beth Book .

AMB DG O S to R C RI E H U E, close ichmond Bridge , is named u R after its most celebrated occ pant , ichard Owen Cambridge, ’ w s T/ze S cr ioler i aa was ho e mock heroic poem , , once widely

50 ’ S i r R known . I t was on his way here , in J oshua eynolds “ Mr . le xic o carriage , to dine with Cambridge , that the great c r itic k grapher, the stately moralist , the masterly , startled “ h is e llow friend Boswell by speaking of himself as a f , a ” “ - S am s good humoured fellow , as if he had been J ohn on , a ” mere pleasant companion .

M II A B . . R LE H ILL George gave H enrietta H oward , S f afterwards Countess of uf olk , ten or twelve thousand pounds t i owards the erection of this house . The staircase s of finely carved mahogany , and some of the floors are of the same ou t wood . The gardens were laid by Pope , and the cellar s tocked by S wift . as Gay probably had a home here , well as with the Duke R of Queensberry at ichmond , two rooms in the house being ’ known as Gay s . S S ir Lady uffolk was a daughter of H enry H obart, and granddaughter of the first Earl of Buckinghamshire . I n her s circle moved the chief wit and authors of the day. A 1 60 u fter her death , in 7 , it was occ pied by the E arl of u d t B ckinghamshire . On his ecease, it became the proper y i z he r b rt O fM Mrs . t e iss H otham , who let it to F , who had been privately married to George I V . , then Prince of Wales . n s Lady Bath and Lord and Lady H owe were later tena t , and some years after it was the residence of the Marquis 1 — 1 80 who Wellesley, Governor General of I ndia, 7 9 7 5 , , d his e e Ti oo uring administration , d stroy d the power of pp S c M ahib , eradi ated the French interest in I ndia, added ysore u t the M t to the B ritish dominions , s bjuga ed ahrat a con e c and u r t n f dera y , conquered the whole tract of co nt y be wee h t e J umna and the Ganges .

V wa d S A ILLE H O U S E . This s the resi ence for many years M M u of Lady ary Wortley ontag , who was persuaded by i n 1 20 s u m Pope to settle here 7 , oon after her ret rn fro ’ u s wa i T rkey . Pope abject flattery of her s converted nto

5 I H—2 s u of s c rrilous abuse by a quarrel which all the world know , though everyone seems to give different grounds for the M was quarrel . Lady ary said he jealous of her intimacy

- with the Duke of Wharton . H er grand daughter says that Lady Mary received a passionate declaration of love from Pope S i r with a flood of ridicule , and J ohn H awkins is reported by his daughter to have declared the quarrel originated in the return by one to the other (he could not recall which was borrower and which lender) of a soiled piece of furniture ! Lady M ’ S ary s successor was a widowed Lady aville , whose son , S i r R Georg e , is supposed to have been the original of ichard ’ h i r . S e son s S Charles Grandison subsequently married Dr . M M Charles orton , principal librarian of the British useum .

The house is one of the finest in Twickenham , of s - cla sical elevation , in red brick , and has a splendid wrought iron entrance gate .

S A N DY COMB ODG . L E This house , near the entrance to M Twickenham Park , was for some years the residence of J . . W . Turner . I t was , says Walter Thornbury , his biographer , “ S built from his own designs , and originally entitled olus ” A in Lodge . H ere he once entertained some cademicians , M t a Mr . e Mr cluding ulready , at ; and here he once feasted .

Pye, his celebrated engraver, and the great opponent of A cademic abuses , with cheese and porter . I t was here that ’ he used to protect from birds - nesting boys the blackbirds ’ who sang and cheered him after his day s work , and in con sequence the boys christened him B lackbirdy and it was here , in his rude tangle of a garden , that he grew the water plants which he loved to introduce into his foregrounds . To be near Reynolds ’ old house at Richmond is said to have M been one of his chief reasons for building the house . ore probably it arose from his wish to be undisturbed , to study the

Thames , and to be near his old schoolboy home at Brentford . ’ Chan t re s y early days were mostly spent at Twickenham , ’ where the famou s sc ulptor s wife resided with her parents ;

5 2

the w s t J ustice of Peace , charged ith tealing a join of meat , pl e aded that the exposure of the lux ury was more than he S ir r ri could resist . Godfrey discharged the soldier and e p man de d the butcher for putting temptation in his way . On a question arising between two parishes as to which w as S ir answerable for the maintenance of a pauper, Godfrey , without hearing evidence, assigned the pauper to the richer parish . On Pope ’s complimenting him on the superiority of his an d works to those of nature , regretting his absence at the S ir — Creation , Godfrey , with a glance at the poor mis shapen “ t ! R som e s poe , replied eally, I should have made thing better. u K neller H all , after passing through vario s hands, was pu rchased in 1 84 7 by the Committee of the Council of E du cation as a training home for schoolmasters of pauper and re de co criminal children , and the house was enlarged and M Mr . rated by George air, who arranged the front after the ottin ham shire style of Wollaton H all , N g , a very celebrated piece of renaissance architecture , designed by J ohn of Padua . s 1 8 it Pa sing, in 5 7 , into the hands of the War Department , u became , and remains , a school of military m sic . Owing to i u the var ous additions , repairs , and redecorations , the ho se ’ a t h s been almost en irely rebuilt since Kneller s time .

S TRAW B ERRY H ILL was the res idence of many notable u people , Colley Cibber among others , before it was p rchased ,

1 8 . l i n 74 , by H orace Walpole I t was originally only a sma l

t to . cot age , which occasional additions had been made Out of this, Walpole , bit by bit , contrived the pseudo Gothic residence which was the foreru nner of the Gothic revival . A s mongst the room gradually patched on were the hall , the the refectory or great parlour, china room , the little u a s parlo r, the blue breakf st room , the green closet , the tar a ch mber, the H olbein room , the gallery , the round drawing h u u the t u t e s . room , rib ne, Bea clerk clo et The grad al growth

54 too of the house became in fact the hobby of Walpole , a man t f delica e or too indolent to mix in public af airs , as might have been expected of the son of the great S ir Robert . H is taste u for the elegant , the curio s , the rare , the beautiful , led him to u accumulate about him , in the vario s rooms as he added them , the extraordinary collection which made the house practically a museum . This collection , when it was dis e rse d 1 8 2 - p by auction in 4 , took twenty four days to sell , and reali z ed a figure perhaps less than half what it would have fetched at the present day . To attempt to enumerate the more important even of the objects contained in the collection would not be pertinent . M t oreover, the catalogue of the collec ion is as accessible as ’ A n ecdotes o P ai n ti n u are Walpole s own f g , or his nine vol mes L tte r s of e . Whilst Walpole lived he was perhaps the most impor bu t tant man in Twickenham , his life was uneventful , and ’ a r esu me of it here would be hardly more than a list of his names of the most prominent people of day , with all of whom he was acquainted . u The ho se itself, which , were he a man of our own time , u z as wo ld appear to him as bi arre and tawdry it does to us , was until recently in the occu pancy of kinsfolk of its creator.

A t TT S T A B Y Mrs . re LI LE R W ERR H ILL, Catherine Clive was sided . H orace Walpole her great friend , and wrote this memorial inscription for an urn

Y e sm ile s an d je sts st ill hove r rou n d ’ This i s m irt h s c on se crate d groun d e e e d the au e - o n dam e H r liv l ght r l vi g ,

A m at c e s s act e ss C e h e r n am e . hl r , liv ’ The com c m u se w t h e r re t i r d i i h , ’ w h x i r An d she d a te ar h e n s e e p d .

A s th e Kitty Clive , her name still lives i n the annals of “ ! E nglish stage . Dr . J ohnson said of her Clive , sir, is a ” good thing to sit by she always u nderstands what you say ;

5 5 “ s it whilst the lady said of him ! I love to next to Dr . J ohn son ; he always entertains one . The cottage belonged to M s H orace Walpole , and he bequeathed it to his friends is

‘ M M A Be rr who s ary and iss gnes y, lived in it for ome time . H e L i e an d or r e s o de n ce M i ss B e r r f C p n of y , edited by Lady Theresa Lewis is full of entertainment and information about the notable people of her circle .

' A ’ O P S A . 1 1 P E VILL fter his father s death , in 7 7 , Pope took a long lease of a house and five acres of ground at

Twickenham , and set about the construction of the villa and gardens that became so prominent a centre of literary life in d f Twickenham . Eleven dwellings were demolishe to af ord a site for the new house and grounds . The house itself was not greatly altered or added to , and is familiar from old engravings . Walpole describes the house as small and bad , “ and says one could not avoid pardoning his ! S ir William S tanhope ’s! hollowing out that fragment of the rock of Par n assu s . s into habitable chambers Of the garden , he ays,

I t was a little bit of ground of five acres , enclosed with three lanes , and seeing nothing . Pope had twisted and twirled and rhymed and harmonized this till it appeared two or three sweet little lawns opening and opening beyond one another and the whole surrounded with thick impenetrable — a woods . The famous grotto construction which we should doubtless think hideous nowadays— was designed as a sub terranean way from the house to the upper garden , under a road which lay between . I t was after Pope took up his residence here that the publication of the I l iad was com d e le te d . O ss p H e followed it with his version of the y y , the D u n ci ad E ssa on M an Un i ver sal P r a er , the y , the y , and a great number of other poems . S u wift and Gay were freq ently his guests , and Gay is ’ B e ar s O e r said to have written here his successful gg p a. Ma 1 u Pope died on the 3 oth y, 744, and was b ried in u s ix Twickenham Ch rch , borne to the grave by of the

56

TH E R V R F R T TW A M A S T I E O N , I C KE N H , E

M has N this drawing r . Way given the View of the Twickenham river frontage from Orleans H ouse to the

Church , embracing, besides Orleans H ouse , two other “ M notable mansions , Lebanon H ouse , formerly called ount ” u Lebanon , and York H o se , now the property of the Duke of Orleans ; all three closely associated with the exiled royal a f mily of France .

AN S O S s s ORLE H U E, the mo t easterly of the three , derive its name from the residence in it of King Louis Philippe , who rented it from the owner on his arrival in England from 8 0 1 0 s . N ew York in , while he was still Duke of Orlean A brick and timber house s tood on the s ite when a

A Mrs . Parliamentary survey was taken in 1 650 . J ane 1 0 2 s Davies obtained , in 7 , the renewal of a lea e originally 1 1 granted in 6 7 . e n k n M emoi r s o P r i n ce Wi lliam H en r J y Lewis , in his f y , D uke o Glouceste r A f , says that Queen nne , then Princess of 1 6 Denmark , took , in 94 , as change of air was considered necessary for the young Duke, three houses at Twickenham M rs . which belonged to Davies, an ancient gentlewoman , my ’ Lord Berkeley s aunt , a very temperate healthy old lady , who was said to live chiefly on herbs without animal food . The him t h Duke brought with his regimen of boys , w ich he used “ ” u S t n ow to exercise opposite the ho se, on the wan I sle , become a part of the main land . D r. Pratt , vicar of the ’ s parish , was the Duke s tutor, and he ucceeded in teaching ’ but him the Lord s Prayer and the Ten Commandments , failed to induce him toat tend the daily prayers of th e hous e

59 I—2 u hold . The D ke , who reached a greater age than any other A ’ member of Queen nne s large family , died in his twelfth year . The old buildings on the site were removed by a sub S S sequent tenant , J ames J ohnstone , ecretary of tate for S cotland , who erected the present building after the model of country seats in Lombardy , and built the large octagon room at the end of the house especially for the reception of Queen 1 1 Caroline , wife of George . S ecretary J ohnstone grew vines here, from which he made several hogsheads of wine a year . 1 800 During the residence here , from onwards , of Louis

Philippe , Duke of Orleans , afterwards K ing of France , his M brother, the Duke of ontpensier, died , and was buried in A Westminster bbey .

A M . I t passed into the hands of lexander urray , E sq , of 1 8 2 B roughton , in 7 , and on his death into those of Lord ’ Due D A u male Kilmorey , from whom it was purchased by the , who gathered together here a fine collection of pictures , books , b oute r i e . ij , and rarities in furniture, armour, china, and so forth

MO NT B AN ON U LE , or , as it is now called , Lebanon H ouse , explains its name at view . I t has in the grounds perhaps the

finest group of cedars of Lebanon to be seen near London .

I t is the central house of the three in the drawing . On the site formerly S tood a house in which resided ’

u . Pepys great friend , Dr . William F ller S 1 0 1 I t was purchased by the Earl of trafford in 7 , and A on his death became the property of his sister, Lady nne

u . Conolly , who pulled it down and erected the present ho se I t then became the property and residence of her daughter u S he M Frances , Visco ntess H owe . bequeathed it to iss s M Fanny Byng , who , with her ister, iss Caroline Byng , came to reside in it . These ladies for many years were the centre t s of the gayest and mos fa hionable society . The next occ upant was the Dowager Duchess of N orth

60

TW I C KE N HA M C H U R C H

A TE D M w E DIC S t . as to ary , this church of old A S t . appropriated to the bbey of Valery , in Picardy , a religious house founded by the Frankish King Clothaire , and a Vicarage was endowed , of which the abbot and monks became patrons, the right being confirmed to them by H enry I I I . 1 u F I n 3 3 7 , d ring the wars with rance , the estates of the alien priories were confiscated by King E dward I I I . , a nd this sovereign appears to have presented three times to the living of Twickenham . s was 1 6 1 Po session restored to the priory in 3 , but

R . u ichard I I seq estrated the estates again , and became patron of the living of Twickenham .

When William of Wykeham founded Winchester College , f he obtained rom the king the rectory and parish church , and s e the advow on of the Vicarage , as p art of the ndowment of his college . They continued the property of the college till ’

V I I s . I . H enry time Then the living , with several others , was transferred by the college to the Crown , in exchange for s the lord hip and manor of H armondsworth . Edward I V . bes towed the living of Twickenham upon the Dean and

Canons of Windsor, in whose hands the patronage has remained ever S ince . t The Tower is the sole remnan of an older edifice , and appears to date from about the fourteenth century .

Mr . R S . . Cobbett suggests that the church may have been rebuilt u nder the superintendence of William of Wyke A t of s ham . that date the general plan an E nglish pari h

6 3 u ch rch comprised a nave , with or without aisles , a chancel , A s and a western tower. far as can be ascertained , no view 1 1 of the church prior to 7 3 exists . The material of which it was built was Kentish rag . This older building seems to have been allowed to get into a S tate of such complete dilapidation that it fell down in h 1 A t 1 . the night of pril 9 , 7 3 The erection of the present church was at once com 1 1 S ir m e n ce d . , and was completed in 7 5 Godfrey K neller was one of the churchwardens at the time , and he may have had a voice in the selection of the architect , J ohn J ames , ’ ’ S u S t . S t . who built George s , H anover q are , and Luke s ,

Old S treet . The classical red - brick bu ildi n that resulted has a cu rious f ti e ef ect in close juxtaposition with Gothic Tower, but it is undeniable that the effect would have been far less harmonious had there been any attempt in 1 7 1 5 to reproduce the Gothic body of the church . Each portion , as it is , stands, and stands well , for the period of its erection .

There are eight bells in the tower, the oldest of which bears the inscription , in raised old English letters , with Lom bardic capitals

" I n mu lti s an n is re son e t campan a Johan n is .

The writer recalls that a bell , said to have been acquired M from the Carthusian Priory of ount Grace , hangs in the h l n 1 80 2— or t al e r to . parish church of N U ntil when , becoming — it . cracked , it was recast bore this very same inscription

The legend was probably a stock one with bell founders . u One learns with some dismay , being nprovided with details of what it consisted in , that the church plate was, with Mr M the exception of two pieces , disposed of by . aster, vicar 1 8 1 8 6 from 59 to 5 , and replaced by two patens , two chalices , s and a flagon of elegant and convenient hape, and excellent workmanship . s almS - s The two pieces that were spared were a ilver di h ,

64

as “ Foul W eat e ack owi n t o hi s s n u a - uck h r J , g i g l r ill l n a s u n hi v o a i n en coun t e ri g g le d ri g s y ge s! . - n W m T n n of 1 88 . F eb . . e ut . G e e a a o at e G o er o 7 4 Li r l illi ry , l v r w Y k N e or .

u The monuments , both in the church and in the ch rch yard , are very numerous . s The earliest is affixed to the outh wall inside the church , s near the vestry door, and consists of a tone slab with an inscription in brass , surmounted by the royal arms of E ngland , ! also in brass . The inscription is as follows

s Ibit jacet mints 38 11 1 1011 3 1 111111r nup tapitali s majs nni !Brain at g enes !Err ei ’ qui obiit rxiiti ° hi e Slatti Q0 hn‘ m°t tt t°rliiii q°r stabs ppiaet Des R This ichard Burton was chief cook to the king ; hence ,

s . the royal arm With the abbreviated words written in full , the inscription would read H i c jace t Ricardas B u rton armige r n u p e r capit ali s m agi ste r domin i r e gi s e t Agn e s u xor eju s qui obiit X X I I I I ° die Ju lii An n o Domin i M um an im u r i c ie d u C C C C X L I I I qu or ab s p Op t e s .

E s On a monument to Francis Poulton , q , sometime ’ - Bencher of Lincoln s I nn , are two most interesting half length - e ffi ie s . g in terra cotta, coloured The inscription concludes S E rected and composed by Teares , by the Pensive onne A and Daughter. rather unusual but beautiful use of the word pensive . A n imposing tablet to the memory of

t he U L o n B e ke e B a on ofS aton J h r l y , r tr ,

re records his prowess in the civil wars , during which he ” “ A covered E xce ste r from the rebels . mongst other dig n it ie s he enjoyed in later life , was that of Lord Lieutenant A z i n sc r i of I reland . rhymed stan a , which concludes the p tion , speaks of his being sprung from Danish kings , and unique thing on a monument surely— what an I rishman might call “ a footnote at the side explains that the ancient Of Fit z H ardin s name the Berkeleys was g, they de cending

6 6 u son De n marke from a yo ng of ye King of , who bore that name . A monument was erected by Pope to his parents , with a t Latin inscription of eight lines , recording heir names , their ages , and the years in which they died, and concluding S imply liu F i s Fecit . ’ Beneath this , after the poet s own death , were added at his own request the lines e t S ibi ui o u an n oMDCCX L I I I I E tat i s V Q b t , L II

u Pope s pplied many inscriptions for monuments , but few simpler than this to his parents and one may believe that he as wished his own name to be recorded only he had directed . I n furni shing such an inscription for a member of another s family , he was probably governed by the public ta te of the time , which would have thought over brevity somewhat i s indecent . H is own taste still more plainly shown in the inscription he placed u pon an obelisk erected to the memory hi i n hi s s . of mother, own grounds For a parallel , one must go back to the time when the language of his inscription was e veryday speech of the masters of the world and though the use e t inscription be in a sense a plagiarism , its is evidenc hat

Pope knew it tobe pe rfection as the express ion of loss . Ah E dit ha ! Mat ru m O ptima ! Muli e rum am an tissim a ! V ale !

’ Pope s modest record of his own death was destined to ’ s t t as almo t o al eclipse Pope s monument . For the one ’ generally known as Pope s is the immense one erect ed by s r u B i hop Wa b rton , and is thus inscribed

Ale xan dro Pope M H G uli e lm u s E pi sc op u s G loce stri e n si s

Am c t a c au s F C ur . i i i a ac . MD C CLXI

6 7 K— 2 Poe t a Loqu itur For on e w ho wou ld n ot be buri e d i n W e stm in st e r A bb e y H e roe s an d ki n gs ! your distan ce ke e p ; I n pe ac e l e t on e poor poe t s le e p ; ’ W h o n e ve r flat t e r d folks l i ke you L e t ac e u i H or bl sh an d V irg l too.

’ Th e actual place of Pope s tomb is under the second

s . pew from the east end , on the north side of the middle ai le A mongst the later memorials is a tablet to the memory

E s 1 8 0 . of William J ones Burdett , q , who died in 4 I t was S ir erected by his brother, Francis Burdett , and in its length and in the enumeration of the good qualities of the deceased r . s ecalls the eighteenth century inscriptions But , incerity here again is attested by the two Latin lines which conclude the inscription

N u n uam e ot e t a a e am abilior q g , vi fr t r ,

AdS i c i am osth ac at ce t e se m e am a o. p p , r p r b

During the restoration of the church in 1 859 there was S ir found a singular leaden shell or coffin , said to be that of S William Berkeley , brother of the Baron of traton above

mentioned . I t was very light and quite empty , and appeared to have been formed by wrapping the corpse in thin sheet

lead , which was then battened over the body , and thus

assumed its form . I t was replaced in the vault to which - it belonged in the south east corner of the church . I ronside 1 8 6 records the disinterment of this body , when , in 7 , the A interment took place of dmiral J ohn B iron . H e says the “ shell showed the form of the features , hands , feet, and

even nails , and looked like a figure in armour . S ir William was the younger son of S ir Maurice M Berkeley , was educated at erton College , Oxford , and

became Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to Charles I . I n 1 6 6 u 4 he went on public b siness to Virginia, of which pro vince he was made Governor on the death of Colonel Mat

68

u t t him his u Tue Warb r on , and complimen ed on a thorship of D i vi n e L eg ati on ofM oses ’ A chari ty known as Vicar s Bread was formerly called “ by the nam e of A dole of cakes and ale . I t was di stributed n s i the church on E a ter Day amongst the young people . s s Being looked upon as a uperstitiou practice , the Long Par liam e n t 1 6 is , in 45 , ordered the d continuance of the observance , and direct ed the fund to be expended in loaves of bread for the poor . I t is a matt er for extreme regret that the view of u r Twickenham Ch rch from the iver should be obscured , e i ce t at t s u s p one or two poin , by an n ightly modern coal w il arf.

70 MO NTPE LI E R ROW

1 2 0 t B O U T the year 7 , Captain Gray, who hen pos s s e sed an estate at Twickenham , built on a part of - M it a row of about twenty four houses , called ont R w pelier o . The row ru ns at right angles to the river on the south R R s side of the ichmond oad , from exactly opposite the ite of N orth E nd H ouse to S outh E nd H ouse at its lower termi M nation , and overlooks the grounds of arble H ill . A ' Row fter Captain Gray s death , the houses in the were sold to differen t people . The houses are of the same character as those in Maid Row R P ar kshot R of H onour , Ormond oad , and , ichmond , S Row s and ion , Twickenham but with a greater diver ity as to elevation than appears in any of those places . 1 Mr No . 4 belonged to , and was occupied by , the late . S J oseph kelton , the talented line engraver and illustrator of ’ i A n ti ua R estau r ata Me r ic k s A n ci e n t A r m u Ox n a o r . o g , and y

I n the middle of the last century , Lady B ridgett Osborne 1 6— a 1 8 6 lived in N o . house which , till his death in 7 , was Mr u occupied by . Ephraim Gompertz , and subseq ently by his S R e e cted A ddr esses widow, the ister of the brilliant authors of j ,

H orace and J ames S mith .

The house next to the chapel , on the north side , has “ often been tenanted by ministers of the chapel . This Chapel ” u H ouse , or, as it is now called , H olyrood H o se , was in the 1 8 0 A year 5 the residence of lfred Tennyson , Poet Laureate . The baptismal register of the parish church contains the 1h i 8 2 entry on October 5 , 5

a am son ofA e d an d E m S ara Ten n son H ll , lfr ily h y .

7 I T - of his , presumably , is the record the baptism of the present

Lord Tennyson , whose name records the tender friendship of A a his father and rthur H all m , son of the historian . ’ I n M e mor i am Tennyson s poem , , the outcome of his grief for the loss of his friend , was published about this a M d te , and it is possible that it was , in part , written at ont pelier Row . Of Towards the close the last century , Governor Bouchier

2 1 . lived in N O . A Mr former occupant of the last house but one was . Tolfr e y , an eminent Oriental scholar, to whom was entrusted the education of two Cingalese princes . M “ ontpelier Chapel , a small neat chapel , erected in 1 2 Row 7 7 for the convenience of the inhabitants of the , is an unconsecrated building ; though it appears to have served in a way as a chapel of ease to the parish church . I t was , no doubt , much used by members of the royal household during S M the residence of the Countess of uffolk at arble H ill . 1 R v A S lately as 8 54 the e . William Webster was ad m it t e d minister of the chapel , which has now , however, been disused as a place of worship for some length of time . A t lthough the list of names has a local interes , its man ministers numbered amongst them no of eminence , and t the chapel itself is lacking in the architec ural features , or real historical importance , which would make one deplore its secularization . R R O M I n the ichmond oad , immediately pposite ontpelier Row st “ , stood, till within the la year or two , N orth E nd

H ouse . The most notable occupants of this residence were ! S Edward H awke Locker , ecretary to Greenwich H ospital , and a friend of David Wilkie , who spent much of his time here ; and General Ord , whose first wife was a daughter of hi Mr . s Beckford of Fonthill , and second a daughter of the

Duke of Beaufort .

Mr . r u su s u H en y George Bohn , the p blisher, b eq ently

7 2

S TR T TW A M K I NG E E , I C KE N H

I N G S treet has a measu re of dignity that is denied to S the more picturesque Church treet . This consists

probably , to some degree , in a greater uniformity of - S k . y line , and still more in the greater width of the roadway There is no building of architectural pretensions equal with those of the house which form s the leading feature of

S . S t S Church treet But until Queen treet , on the nor h ide , is reached , all the buildings have a stateliness and character which help to form a very pleasing and harmonious group . A n d Mr , from the point of view selected by . Way , the modern buildings beyond Queen S treet are hidden by the

S light curve in the road . There is nothing of importance to record in connection s two with the George I nn . The street contain other inns , ’ A u s the King s H ead , and the ngel , almost equally pict re que , and equally lacking in historical interest .

The most important building in the street , from the his ’ Mr torical . s point of View, is not seen in Way view, nor indeed from the street itself, from which it is secluded by a high wall , broken by two pairs of entrance gates . The house can , however, be seen from the terrace facing the river. I t R is known as ichmond H ouse , and was, in the latter part of the seventeenth century , the property and residence of Francis

N ewport , Earl of B radford , a notable politician i n the reigns

. t of Charles I I . and J ames I I , and an active promo er of the revolution . 1 08 to On his death , in 7 , it passed his second son , Lord ’ was Torrington . From Lady Torrington s executors it , in

7 5 L— 2 1 0 s A s u M u 74 , purcha ed by nthony , Vi co nt ontag e , and from him it passed su ccessively through the hands of A nthony E s M S u K eck , q , ary , Countess Dowager of helb rne, the Mr z S E s s . H on . Thomas Fit maurice, J ohn ymmonds , q , A s llanson , the Countess Dowager of Elgin , Lady de Cre pigny , and Lambert Blair, Esq . s u The old hou e was demolished , and a new one b ilt on Mr i t s s 1 8 1 6 s . ite in for Lionel Dawson Damer, cousin to the Mr he s . t s H on . Damer, sculptre s, and the successor of H orace

Mrs . S . Walpole , at trawberry H ill Damer was attracted to

Twickenham by her desire to live near her intimate friend , M Mrs . oore , a widow who then occupied the house now ” R u the u called iverside , and she b ilt new ho se somewhat ’ after the pattern of her friend s . I t was enlarged to its present dimensions in or about the year 1 8 2 9 for the Duchess Dowager of Roxbu rgh and her ll mach e To e . husband , the H on . J ohn Lord Louth and S ir H enry Willock were success ive A n n M u occupants , and Lady urray rented the ho se on the M E s ir A . S death of her husband , urray , q , of Broughton . A n n M E dward Blakeney followed Lady urray . “ I n a house near by , called in modern times The Grove , S ir R M but now demolished , formerly lived ichard iddleton , a t S ir M ddle t on R descendan of H ugh y , of N ew iver celebrity ; u and after him the clever and disrep table Duke of Wharton , ” as our whom Pope describes the scorn and wonder of days , possessing

E ac ofn at u e an d ofart h gift r , n n n n u a n An d wa ti g ot hi g b t n ho e st he art .

’ I n Pope s time it was the residence of his friend J ames - -fi ve Craggs, who , dying of small pox at the age of thirty , was s A buried in Westmin ter bbey, where a monument , with an a i w s h s . inscription by Pope , erected to memory ’ Mr Mr was . . Craggs successor as tenant Edward Waller,

s u . a barri ter, and grandson of Edm nd Waller the poet

7 6

U R S TR T TW A M C H C H E E , I C KE N H

H IS st reet s till retains much of the air of the old country t s u own treet , and , tho gh here and there a front has been z moderni ed , it has nothing in common with the busi s s ne s thoroughfare , in which the lower storeys seem to be com posed ofplate-glass so expan s ive as to make one wonder if quite sufficient masonry exists for the su pport of the upper

floors . There are in Chu rch S treet several houses with weather s boarded front , and several of which the fronts , above the h ground level , are roug cast . Pleasing mouldings beneath the eaves are almost continuous . i t s - The Fox inn , with little projecting door coping and — it s descent at entrance for one steps down from th e S treet — level makes one think of sanded parlours and churchwarden pipes . ’ A t the gateway of the forge and veterinary surgeon s , a

- handsome wrought iron bracket , supporting three gilded horse

s S . hoes , projects as a ign r B ut the glory of Chu rch S treet is the house of M .

R his r . awlings , which by courtesy M Way and I were enabled to see from cellar t oattic . I find not hing recorded as to the past history of this us s ho e, though it mu t originally have been a residence of s s ome distinction . The hop has evidently been thrown out

s . over a mall forecourt , but many years since I n fact, we were informed that the business of a butcher had been carried on there for 1 2 0 years .

The house is of red brick , comprising two storeys and t attics, and was probably erec ed late in the seventeenth

7 9 s t century . The proportion are of the grea est elegance , and a ade the fc is , as it were , framed by two beautiful pilasters , u u s rmo nted by a very heavy projecting cornice , above which rise the dormer windows of the attics . The cornice would be O so heavy as to be ppressive, in a house of its size , were it not for the careful gradation of the space between it an d the fi rs t-floor i upper line of the windows . I n f tting a modern — fi re place some vandal builder has run a stuccoed chimney up the face of the east pilaster and across the cornice , but this is the only outward injury the house seems to have suffered by its conversion into a shop . i t it s Within , the house remains intact , practically as left ’ its builder s hands . The square entrance hall , with fine moulding round the grate , whose original blue Dutch tiles still retain their place , is panelled, as is the rest of the house as the and you move from room to room , and see entire — if ou u absence of modern improvements , you feel y are h man , and fond of old things— a certain envy of the man who lives A S u in so u nspoiled a place . ecl ded garden behind adds to - - the old world character of the place, and the out buildings , which the occu pant uses for slaughter-houses and other trade s has t - purposes , urround a courtyard which almos a farm like appearance . S everal narrow passages , lined with cottages , lead from u S Ch rch treet to the river side , in one of which an old inn , S The E ight Bells , has a quaint ign . S O t J ust east of Church treet , and nearly pposi e the parish M u church , are the few remains of the old anor H o se of - Twickenham . They form a small dwelling house known as A rragon Towers , the form of the porch and of the eastern side of the hou se being a reasonable ground for the appellation “ ” “ s A s so s Tower , although the rragon is perhap not ea ily j ustified . to u The manor was annexed by H enry V I I I . the hono r u 1 s s of H ampton Co rt in 5 3 9 , and it is uppo ed to have formed t u u but par of the joint re of Q een Catherine Parr, no con

80

Mr s ff . the external modification , e ected , according to Cobbett , M about the time of William and ary, have completely disguised the fact in the case of the portion called A rragon Towers .

O n the top floor of the house , in one of the turret rooms , there is a moveable panel giving access to a secret passage in the thickness of the wall probably what is commonly known as a priest hole . I n t he large garden adjoining was a magnificent walnut

80 . tree , which when cut down was sold for about £ The royal arms of E ngland were placed either in the hall or over the entrance door . A s M the subject of a drawing, the anor H ouse had to a give place to the greater attractiveness , architectur lly , of ’

s shO u S its u . the butcher p in Ch rch treet, and s rroundings

8 2 S IO N ROW

I ON Row runs up from the riverside a little west of “ S The wan , an inn close to Twickenham Ferry , w hich has been so called for at least a century . Row S f t The has a light curve , which serves to dif eren iate it somewhat from the similar rows of early eighteenth -centu ry P ar kshot R R houses in and Ormond oad , ichmond , and in M Row s ontpelier , Twickenham . Otherwise there is the ame u niformity of outline , broken by slight modifications in detail a n h (such as v ryi g pilasters and hoods to the doorways) , whic seems to have appealed so strongly to the architects of those days , and to be regarded so contemptuously in our own i t me . Row u The name of the is , of co rse , derived from that of Ma S the nor on which it is built, I sleworth yon ; and on the S wall of ion Cottage , the nearest house to the river, is a S “ S gracefully designed tone tablet , bearing the words ion

Row , “ ” There was a French Refuge in the Row in 1 7 2 7 ; a hOu se s fact worth recording, when it is remembered that the Row has in the overlook the grounds of York H ouse , which R a a long been associated with the exiled oyal F mily of Fr nce . A t 6 A H i stor o Number , E dward I ronside , author of y f Twi cke n lzam (quarto , with plates , lived till the year 1 8 0 h S 7 , when he moved to a ouse in King treet , nearly opposite the turning which leads down to Cross Deep . S The second house from the river, known as ion H ouse, S E s Of was the residence of J ohn ydenham , q , a descendant the celebrated physician from whom the S ydenham S ociety takes its name — 83 M 2 C athe rlou h Between him and the widowed Countess of g , S “ who lived in K ing treet , a becoming friendship existed , A n ecdotes M a Ma according to the of iss L etitia tilda H awkins . Miss H awkins goes on to explain how Lady Cat he rlough was “ related to that Lady Luxborough whose name is often S associated with that of henstone , and was the correspondent ” a of the worthily celebrated Countess of H ertford . I t is lmost “ Cranford with Miss Je n kyn s speaking ; and the real and imaginary ladies had this in common , that Dr . J ohnson was their ideal . ’ Mr S a A . fter ydenham s de th , though not immediately M a 2 after, iss H awkins became the occup nt of Number , in company with her brother H enry (who was named , on account of his considerable attainments , H arry and a com M M M M . r panion , iss ary itchell They formed , says . Cobbett , d M as grotesque a trio as can well be imagine . iss H awkins could well remember Oliver Goldsmith teaching her “ to play ” a n J ack and Gill by two bits of p per on his fi gers , and Dr . “ ” J ohnson fondling her in his way , and asking her if she would be his little housekeeper. Miss H awkins published a large number of novels which have passed into oblivion but her three volumes of A n e cdotes still possess much interest , and afford many pleasing pictures of what Twickenham was during the period which her long life enabled her to remember. H ere, for instance , is her vivid description of H orace Walpole

H is figure was not merely tall , but, more properly , long and slender to excess ; his complexion , and particularly his hands , of a most unhealthy paleness . H is eyes were br i ht an d remarkably g penetrating, very dark and lively his c voice was not strong , but his tones were extremely pleasant , and , if I may so say , highly gentlemanly . I do not remember his common gait ; he always entered a room i n that style of affected delicacy which fashion had made almost natural ; cna eau or as p between his hands , as if he wished to compress u it nder his arm ; knees bent , and feet on tiptoe, as if afraid

84

s grounds formed of word blade s, which tradition affirms to have been collected , after the battle , from the field of

Culloden . S ir 1 8 u 2 8th J ohn died in 7 9 , and was buried , on Jan ary , A in Westminster bbey . H e lies in the north cloister, and, “ ” hi u s . s by his own req e t , only the letters J H . mark gravestone,

86 KEW

H E strangeness of the name must immediately provoke

enquiry into its origin . The spelling and the pronunciation have both changed with the lapse of years . A mongst the privy purse expenses of King H enry V I I I . is to be found this entry !

’ I 0 Ma a d to t h e K n s at e me n for t e a n om SS . y . P i i g w r h ir w iti g fr ’ Yok ace t o Ke how t s t e e n oa s e n th e K n 8 G ace e m o e d r Pl y i h ix r , wh i g r r v

8d . from York Plac e t oRi c hmon d 1 05 .

e K e hou h I n the earliest records the sp lling y g is found , and in later years Kaiho and Kayo . t Dr . Garnett conjectures tha the last syllable had an t affini y with H oe ; as, for instance , Plymouth H oe, denoting the a level by waterside , and that Kay may have been the ’ name of an ancient owner of the place King A rthur s

S . eneschal , if the reader pleases The proximity of Kew to Richmond naturally resulted i n its being from an early period a place of residence for f court o ficials . The Earl of Worcester, Lord H igh Cham be rlain to H enry V I I I . , had a house here ; and in a Latin C/z eva poem , Leland mentions a villa at , built by a steward of S ’ the Duke of uffolk , husband of the K ing s sister, who lived

at S . uffolk Place , near at hand S ir the S J ohn Pickering , the Lord Keeper of Great eal , 1 z resided at Kew in 595 , and Queen Eli abeth dined with — a him there . I n the fashion of the day fashion one has — heard of though amongst millionaires of our Own time the guest was presented with fans and nosegays , which concealed us gifts of greater value, in the shape of precio stones ; and

87 n h the record states that the Quee , to grace his Lordship t e S more , of herself took from him a salt , a poon , and a fork of ” a fair ag te . a Kew cannot be said to h ve been a royal residence , e however, until the time of Fr derick , Prince of Wales , who 1 0 a a in 7 3 took le se of property in Kew , then in the posses “ as sion of the Capels , including The White H ouse , or, it was afterwards called , Kew H ouse . “ This White H ouse had bee n the property of Richard E s S i r a M Bennett , q , son of Thom s Bennett , Lord ayor of 1 60 London in 3 , and from him descended to the Capels . 1 6 2 — 6 Lady Capel , wife of the Lord Lieutenant of I reland , 9 , 1 2 1 died here in 7 , and was buried in Kew Church . The Prince of Wales made many additions and improve o “ ments t the house , originally a long building in the I talian

. Hi . s style of architecture H is was not a long life , however 1 widow continued to reside at Kew, and in 7 5 9 established - there a physic garden (or botanical garden) , the forerunner - R of the present world famous oyal Gardens of Kew . I n 1 7 6 1 S ir William Chambers built for the Princess what was then 1 1 the largest greenhouse in the country, 4 feet long .

The Earl of Bute , a great favourite with the Princess , was devoted to botany , and seconded all her plans , collecting rare and curious plants from all parts of the globe . The once

flat and bare ground was broken up by artificial means , and o S ir the introduction fquantities of wood , until , as William “ ” Chambers puts it, what was once a desert is now an Eden . 1 2 h r The Princess of Wales died in 7 7 , and e son , King a George I I I . , bought the Kew estates , maintaining the bot ni a of S i r s cal ch racter the gardens , but appointing J oseph Bank to the place of director instead of Lord Bute .

King George resided much at K ew throughout his reign , and he and the Queen here followed homely rural pursuits , to a enable them to sh ke off the tedium of court life, whilst the boys and girls of the royal family worked in the gardens and learned to employ themselves in some handicraft or other.

88

KE W PA LAC E

H E hou se at present known as Kew Palace served as a royal residence for a comparatively short space of time “ was u only , and more commonly known as The D tch ” x l H ouse . For this misnomer there seems no adequate e p a as a nation , the house , red brick building, is J acobean in cha

rac t e r . u s I t is massive , and square , and plain , but the mo lding formed by the courses of the brickwork prevent the facade from being uninteresting . I t has been suggested that its erection was due to S ir S ir t H ugh Portman , whose descendant , J ohn Por man , is said 1 6 6 S F ort re E s to have sold it , in 3 , to amuel y, q , from whom 1 6 S ir R again , in 97 , it passed to ichard Levett . A s m there exists over the ain doorway , however, an S . C . inscription consisting of the initials F . , and the date 1 6 1 3 , it seems questionable whether the original proprietor u was not one of the Capels , who at one time owned so m ch of K ew . The fact that three different houses have been at one time or other known by the name of K ew Palace , probably makes it diffic ult to assign to this or t hat particular bu ilding circumstances recorded in connection with them . Mr H i stor o R i cnmon d For instance . Chancellor, in his y f , M quotes iss Burney , who , as reader to Queen Charlotte, f t passed much of her time at Kew , to the ef ect tha the rooms “ t are small , dark, and old fashioned , here are stair ”

i n s t . cases every passage , and passage in every close N ow this description surely cannot apply to the house at present known as the Palace ; for if some of the rooms ar e as s small when regarded chamber in a Palace, none of them — 9 1 N 2 s can be thought dark . On every side of the hou e are win

t . dows in plen y, and not small windows The rooms on the u gro nd and first floors are lofty, and for the most part spacious , and the building is not so lavishly supplied with passages and M staircases as to elicit a grumble . The house to which iss Burney referred was probably the one demolished by K ing 8 . 1 0 George I I I , in 3 , to make way for the castellated man ' S ir R sion of Wyatt s design , which ichard Phillips speaks of “ as a Bastille . The Palace known as The White H ouse , or

K ew H ouse , was a winged building , of something the same appearance as the Lodge in the Old Deer Park , and covered - 1 6 1 a good deal more ground than the four square house of 3 . There would be more available room for passages and stair in cases it , and as its main floors were not lofty , the rooms would be more Open to the charge of darkness— probably also of smallness . The still existing building was certainly occupied at one time by Frederick, Prince of Wales , for the old brass box locks on the doors of the principal rooms are engraved in ’ “ each corner with the Prince of Wales feathers , and the S o initials F . P here flourished at times the opposition

Court , between which and the real Court of his father, King

George I I . , so much bitterness existed . Mr . Chancellor says that there is still to be seen on the ’ inside of a cupboard in the Pages Room a manuscript list of A the bells and the rooms they rang from . lso , that an old powdering closet , with its sliding window to admit the coiffure , remai ns .

H e tells us too that the vastness of the crypts , or vaults , beneath the house suggest their having formed part of an

u . earlier and more massive str cture I t seems probable , 1 6 1 so however, that a building erected in 3 on a site marshy and so close to the river would be provided with very pon d r us e o foundations . The house is panelled in oak almost everywhere that panelling could be placed ; but the oak has been so many

9 2

’ s u the m The Queen Bo doir, on sa e floor, has a handsome z plaster ceiling, divided into lo enges by intersecting mouldings , and containing in the centre and in the four angles classical

f. figures in low relie There is on the wall here an oil painting , ” 6 — S . R 1 1 a Triumph of Flora, by icci , 59 7 3 4 . ’ R The Queen s Drawing oom , in front of the boudoir . has z a modelled plaster frie e above the panelling, and the super oi fi re - structure the place is supported by marble columns , and inlaid with panels of marble . The hearth is of alternate quarries of black and white marble . A lmost every room contains several oil paintings of s flower , fruit , birds , and similar subjects , mostly by Campi for o . d glio , and the most part of no interest

94 KE W C H U RC H

H E parish church , mainly of brick , stands in its tiny A churchyard on the Green . Queen nne presented s the ite , and gave towards the cost of erection a A s su m of one hundred pounds . in the case of many churches built about the same date , the building , out of compliment it is supposed to the reigning sovereign , was

A . a S t . dedicated to nne The ch pel , as it was originally 1 1 s called , was completed in 7 4, and was a much maller edifice than at the present day . The royal gallery at the west end was built by K ing s George I I I . , and the church was con iderably enlarged in

1 8 3 7 by S ir J effry Wyattville . 1 8 8 S I n 3 tructural alterations were carried out , com ple t e ly transforming the appearance of the interior of the church and of the exterior eastward of the nave . Where now the chancel commences the altar formerly s a a tood , and over it , in a g llery f cing the royal gallery at the west end , was the organ , which tradition reports to have been a favourite instrument of the great composer, George Frede rick H andel . This organ was presented to the church in 1 2 8 3 . The later portion of the building consists of an extension of the body of the church eastward , and the line of the roof is there broken by a cupola . Externally the effect is a little u i n incongruo s with the village character of the spot , but

t e rn all . y is of the happiest The building, seen from the west doorway , has a unity of aspect that is often unattained where the work has been executed entirely by one architect ,

95 and the dome and apsidal recess beyond give the church an air of spaciousness and dignity that cannot fail to impress . A small mortuary chapel at the eastern end of the building 1 8 8 ex isted prior to the alterations and additions in 3 , and was then removed from its original S ite and placed beyond the new east wall of the church . I t was erected to receive the remains of the Duke of a C mbridge . youngest son of King George I I I . , and uncle of M H er ajesty the Queen . The remains of the Duchess , who u survived her h sband many years , were subsequently laid to rest there . Many interesting memorials are affixed to the walls of ! the church , including those of the Dowager Lady Cape ;

Elizabeth , Countess of Derby , daughter of Thomas , Earl of S ir A Ossory J ohn Day , dvocate General of Bengal P e r s ect i ve o A r cni te ct u r e J oshua K irby , (author of p f ,

F R . S R Francis Bauer , . draughtsman to the oyal 1 8 0 M M Gardens (died 4 ) J eremiah eyer , Painter in iniature and E namel to K ing George I I I . with twelve lines S ir of verse by William H ayley , the poet ; and William

H ooker , the great botanist .

The most recent of the memorials is , however , the win M S to dow of unich tained glass , placed here record the death , 2 th 1 8 M A on October 7 , 97 , of the Princess ary delaide ,

Duchess of Teck , the most beloved member, because the longest and most intimately known in Kew , of the royal a A t f mily . Cambridge Cottage , just across the road , much of her youth was passed , and there are numerous charming stories of her girlhood in K ew contained in the memoir by Mr R . to . Kinloch Cooke H er oyal H ighness was married u 1 2 1 866 the Duke of Teck , in K ew Ch rch , on June th , , M u in the presence of H er ajesty the Q een , the Prince of a Wales , and other members of the f mily The old people in K ew, despite her long married life , never speak of her M except as The Princess ary . ’ The de scription of S ir Richard Phillips visit to K ew

96

l u O w I t did not fa l in the way of the unta ght , on this ther ise w polite spot , to kno that they have among them the remains TH E F S T P A N T OF O UR N A T ONA S CH of IR I ER I L OOL . The words engraven on the stone are f T om as G a n s oou E s d e d Au . 2 1 88 . A so t he od o h i b r gh , q , i g , 7 l b y

G a n sbo ou D u on t E s who d e d an . 2 0 1 a e d 2 e a s . i r gh p , q , i J , 7 97 , g 4 y r Ma a e G ai n sbo u e of h T mas n s A so Mr s . o w t e a o e o G a l rg r t r gh , if b v h i fh r e boou E s whod e d De c . 1 1 8 i n t h e 2 md e a o e a . r gh , q , i 7 , 7 9 , 7 y r g ! f Close at hand is a monument to the memory of o fany , ! a portrait painter of considerable repute , inscribed thus

f n ! fn R A . who d e d N ov . S ac e d t o th e m e mo o o o a . r ry J h f y , , i I I ,

1 8 1 0 a e d 8 e a s . , g 7 y r

wa Re v The most notable Vicar of Kew s the . Caleb Colton ( 1 8 1 8 whose L acon was once a universally u known work . H e was an extremely eccentric individ al , and absented himself from his parish continuously , apparently preferring life in a garret lodging overlooking the churchyard ’

S . t . A S of nne s , oho, to life in his country village The bishop " deprived him of his cure , and he for some time kept a wine

M S S . cellar beneath a ethodist Chapel in Dean treet , oho - - Kew formerly had a watch house in the chapple yard , “ the and a cage on north side of the church , besides a pound and stocks ; so the vagrant , or the incorrigible idler or malefactor, had a poor time of it here . These aids to discipline have , however, long since vanished .

98 MORTLAKE

P E L LE D ! Mortla e Mortlak in innumerable ways , from g , , Morte lac Moore clac ke , , to the spelling of our own day , no record that can be relied upon as to the origin of the n ame exists . I t has the romantic flavour that carries one back A to the days of K ing rthur, but what romance clings about ’ the name s bestowal is irrecoverable . The manor of Mortlake belonged to the A rchbishops of

Canterbury , and was an occasional residence of theirs from the days ofA nselm— who kept his Whitsuntide at Mortlake in ’ 1 0 s 99, and held an ordination there in King H enry I . reign to those of Warham , the immediate predecessor of Cranmer , n a by whom the ma or was lienated to King H enry V I I I . A 1 2 2 A rchbishop Peckham died here in 9 , rchbishop R n 1 2 A Me ham 1 ey olds in 3 7 , and rchbishop p in 3 3 3 , the X I last while under excommunication by Pope J ohn X .

- King H enry V I I I . gave the manor to his newly created

Dean and Chapter of Worcester, together with the great tithes of Wimbledon ; the Dean and Chapter undertaking to provide perpetual curates for Wimbledon , Putney , and

Mortlake . M The anor H ouse stood at the west end of the village , and the archbishops had many royal visitors . K ing J ohn 2 2 2 n d M 2 6 1 0 . was there I st and arch , ; Edward I I dated 2 1 1 6 a letter from there I st June, 3 Edward I I I . resided 1 2 1 0 there in 3 5 , and at other times ; H enry I V . , in 4 7 and 2 md M 1 1 2 . a 1 1 4 ; and H enry V on y, 4 7 . H enry V I I . went M 1 h u nting in ortlake Park in 50 8 . 1 but The house was standing in 547 , was pulled down

99 0— 2 s not long afterwards ; though , as B ray say it still existed in a 1 66 . 3 , it is possible that some p rts of it escaped demolition The latest record of the existence of remnants of the ’ ’ Manor H ouse is contained in S ir Richard Phillip s s M or n i ng s “ n t K e w ! Wal ié fr om L on do o . H e says On leaving thi s manufactory ! the pottery! , I proceeded about a hundred yards through the main street , and turning a corner on the right u beheld the ancient gateway , now bricked p , and the ruined walls of an enclosure , sanctified during five centuries as the - residence of thirty four successors to the see of Canterbury . Penley the gardener told me that his family had occu pied it since the revolution , and that he remembered every part above fifty years . H e took me to a summer house on the wall next the water, the ruins of which were of the archi tect u re of the time of the Plantagenets ; and indeed the entire wall , above half a mile in circuit , was of that age . Of the ancient palace no vestige remained ; and he could guess its precise site only by means Ofthe masses of brickwork which he discovered by digging in certain parts of the garden . S ir R Penley showed ichard an arbour of box trees , thirty m - feet high , planted in a se i circle , and partly enclosing an oval table of Plymouth marble , massy and well wrought . H e also told him that he frequently, when at his gardening work , unearthed human skeletons . u M One or two old ho ses remain in ortlake, but none of them remarkable architecturally , or with great historical associations .

Edward Colston , the great Bristol philanthropist , resided here in a house standing till about 1 860 on ground attached to Cromwell H ou se . The names of Cromwell H ouse and Fairfax H ouse (the houses them selves are but modern suc s rs c e so of the old residences), support the belief that many of the adherents of the Protector resided here . Lord Pack , R Lord obert Tichborne (afterwards convicted as a regicide) , S ir and Alderman J ohn I reton are known to have done so . M was But the most noted resident in ortlake Dr . J ohn Dee,

I OO

’ Were rowed to see him in a barge covered with t he Queen s ’ cloth and attended by the Queen s Trumpeter .

1 8 . I n 5 9 , Dr Dee , having gone to Bohemia, was recalled

to E ngland by the Queen .

Owing to the fears of the populace , which regarded him a as a magici n , his books , instruments , and property generally

were on one occasion nearly all destroyed . M 1 60 8 8 1 H e died at ortlake in , aged , and is said to have been buried in the chancel ; but no record of his burial

exists , nor is there any monument preserved . R M elics of him are preserved in the British useum . ’ S ir R 1 8 1 ichard Phillips , in 7 , visited Dee s house , then i a a school for girls . H e not ced that , lthough much modified , 1 6 indications of th century architecture remained , and one “ h room was decorated wit red and white roses . Viewing “ ! the garden , he says Down the central path , through iron a z gates , still st nding , Queen Eli abeth used to walk from the ” S heen Road . M a ortlake has been , like B ttersea and Chelsea , the seat ’ of a manufacture of pottery , though of a class very diffe rent from the delicate products of the two villages nearer

London . The first pottery for Delft ware was established at Mort Mr S . 1 2 1 2 lake by a William anders , between 74 and 7 5 , in S premises on the north side of H igh treet , now known as ’

S t M . . ary s Wharf

H e was succeeded in his business by his son J ohn . There were two kilns at the pottery one for white ware and the other for coarser work . A bout the tenth or fifteenth year of this century , the M Co. business was sold to essrs . Wagstaff , of the Vauxhall 1 8 2 Pottery and about 7 the pottery was closed , and all work transferred to Vauxhall . I t has been stated that the well -known Toby Philpot jugs were first made at Mortlake . There is at S outh Kensington Museu m a large pu nch

1 0 2 S ’ M bowl of Delft ware , made at anders ortlake Pottery about 8 1 0 . 7 I t is enamelled earthenware , blue , with scrolls on a white ground , with figures of birds , masks, medallions , and 2 0 flowers . I t is over inche s in diameter, and over a foot high . There are also twelve tiles of Delft ware made at M r e r e ortlake , painted in dark blue on a white ground , p S senting a rocky landscape with ruins and figures , ize about

1 1 . 9 in . by 4 in M A - r . nderson describes a watch stand in his own posses 1 sion , about 5 % inches high , 3 5 inches wide , and 5 inches w - deep, a hite enamelled ground with a scalloped blue lined edge front and back . On the front is a church with a spire , and a house with three trees . There is a hole for the face w fi shin - of the watch , and underneath is a man ith a g rod , a woman and two trees , some water and a fence . The sides M r . A are ornamented in the square patterns . nderson also — a describes having seen about a dozen articles pl tes , cups, - &c . saucers , very coarsely made , in white , with a number of small red flowers on them . The second Mortlake Pottery was started by J oseph K ish e r e s on K i sh e r e 1 j of Benjamin , who in 7 59 was one of ’ the leading hands at S anders s Pottery . H e built his kiln on h Mr A the south side of the H ig S treet . . nderson has only ’ n K i she re s S ir seen brown ware emanati g from Pottery , and ’ R M or n i n s Walt r om L on don ichard Phillips observed , in his g f toK e w a , th t the principal articles made were the brown stone jugs commonly called Toby Philpots . H e remarked that the groups on the jugs were precisely similar to those on the R — n common pottery of the omans hunti g scenes , and so forth— and speculated as to the continuity of the designs amongst potters from those times downwards . H e appears “ to have been aggrieved that K ishe r e preserved an air of mystery about the workshops . K i she r e J oseph had two sons brought up in the pottery , and was succeeded in the business by one of them , William . M A K i sh e re r . nderson has four jugs and two mugs of the

1 03 at the bottom K ishe re M Pottery , some stamped . with ort S S lake Pottery , urrey , and he states that at the J ermyn treet

Museum two S pecimens should be still preserved . Kishe re 1 8 William died suddenly in 43 , and the pottery R Mr . A was purchased by a bbott , of ichmond , for his nephew , who had learned the business elsewhere . I t did not , however , S prosper, and it was eventually closed and the ite built over . A t the extreme end of the parish , close to Kew, is an A old house known as West H all . subsidiary manor to the Manor of Wimbledon (the old Manor of Mortlake) is known as the Manor of East S heen and West H all . S ir R - R ichard Burton , whose school days at ichmond are R mentioned earlier in this volume , lies buried in the oman Catholic Cemetery at Mortlake under a marble tomb in the A form of an rab tent , fitting emblem of his nomadic life .

1 04 nate to Wimbledon , the latter being the mother church . The living is now a Vicarage . A Church was first built on the nort h side of the present playground about 1 3 48 ( Edward as appears from a record , formerly in the tower, being a license to the A rchbishop of Canterbury to give a piece of land to t he parson of Wimbledon for a chapel for Mortlake and East S heen , the inhabitants of which were remote from the mother church . 1 The church goods in 599 appear to have included , from r an invento y entered in the vestry book , a silver communion cup and cover, a Bible of the great volume , an old book of a Common Prayer , a linen surplice , the paraphrases of E r smus an d a k on the Gospel Epistles , a silk cloth for the pulpit , boo of H omilies , two long forms in the chancel , a fair satin cushion an s for the pulpit , iron to set the hour glass in , an hour gla s , a communion table , and cloth of linen . 1 66 2 Various additional articles are enumerated in , and 1 many of those existing in 599 are unmentioned . I n 1 7 2 5 the south aisle was rebuilt and a new gallery erected . 1 I n 7 5 7 , and for some years afterwards , the pews were let by auction in the vestry . A c lterations and repairs , further obs uring the details of a 1 8 1 6— 1 the original edifice , were c rried out in 7 , and again 1 8 As 1 8 - in 40 . late as 3 0 some of the square topped Tudor windows remained . A 1 new chancel was built in 885 .

The font , octagonal in form , is the most ancient ornament A of the church . I t was the gift of Bouchier, rchbishop of

1 1 86 . Canterbury from 454 to 4 , in the time of H enry V I , and has his arms and those of the S e e of Canterbury sculptured u pon it amidst rich Gothic tracery . I t is the only relic of the M old chapel attached to the anor H ouse . u s I n the churchyard are b ried many notable person , u n incl di g ,

1 06 PL A T E X X . M O RT L A K E CH U RCH

s on S i r E dward Digby , of K enelm Digby n m J oh n Partridge , astrologer and alma ac aker but ! H e was a shoemaker originally , by application rose to s ome eminence , taught himself Latin , Greek , and H ebrew, took his degree of Doctor of Physic at the U niversity of

Leyden , and became physician to Charles I I . , and to William an d M A u S ary. practical joke pon him was played by wift , u who published an acco nt of his death , with circumstantial d S T tl u . a e r s S etails teele , in the , de cribed his b rial , and wift f wrote an elegy upon him . Partridge took the af air so seriously as a “ to advertise in the p pers , blessed be God , J ohn Partridge i s all still living and in health, and are knaves who report otherwise ! J A M 1 lderman Barber, Lord ayor of London in 7 3 3 , whom S ir Richard Phillips describes as one of the great benefactors of his country , from his having successfully o pposed an excise scheme which threatened E nglish trade . A I n the church are interred nthony H olt , Comptroller to Queen Elizabeth ; the H onourable Francis Coventry, S son of Lord Coventry , Lord K eeper of the Great eal to i r I . S Charles ; J ohn Temple , brother of the celebrated S ir S ir William Temple ; and Philip Francis , one of the many men to whom the authorship of the L ette r s offun i us has been ascribed . A - S S was tithe barn , on the north ide of the H igh treet, u 1 66 p lled down as recently as 8 . 2 The parish stocks were in existence as late as 1 84 . ’ A mongst odd entries in the churchwardens accounts are

’ a d a M n e s W e t at h ad h e r on n e w t c e tode at 1 1 63 4 5 . P i i ist r if h S i h d h 0 - a d t oa oo e S c o e rom N ew E n land 1 1 63 9 40 . P y p r h ll r f g o i f i n fr an cki n se n ce u n i n t he 1 6 . a d or c Ros an d 44 5 P P t h , i , F , b r t Chur c h 1 u

— 1 07 P 2

n ot a The place became celebrated , only in Engl nd but in France and the Low Countries , for the quality of the tapestry produced . The celebrated cartoons of Raphael were purchased for ’ r a this facto y , and in a c talogue of K ing Charles pictures, edited by Vertue , is this entry

t e m i n a s -box w oode n case som e t wo c a toon s ofR a ae I , lit , r ph l ' U rbin u s for an n s t obe m ade an d th e ot e fi ve are b t h e K n s h gi g by , h r y i g a on tme n t de e e d t o an c s K e n at Mo ake to m a e an n s pp i liv r Fr i l i rtl , k h gi g by .

I 6 1 2 0 J ames . , in 1 9 , granted a subsidy of £ 00 annually toS ir r Francis Crane, last Lay Chancellor of the O der of the

Garter, to assist him in establishing the factory .

The factory was at once proceeded with , the building ’ being erected on the east side of Queen s H ead Court , or t e S S M Passage , on h north ide of H igh treet , ortlake, where formerly stood the laboratory of Dr. Dee . Cle n e I n erecting a house for y , or Klein (the limner, or th artist in charge of the works), on e other side of the H igh S i a ol S treet , r Fr ncis appears to have encroached on the d to S ir churchyard wall , the dissatisfaction of a certain J ohn Mr A 1 0 H ayward . . nderson has a print, dated 7 5 , showing ’ - I f. the limner s house , with a very high pitched tiled roo t was pulled down in 1 7 94. 1 6 2 0 fi l t I n , fty ski l ed workmen were impor ed from o Flanders by K ing J ames , t carry out the manual part of the work . The number of Flemish names appearing in the registers about this time is evidence of thi s u nwonted incur sion of foreigners into the village . The limner appears to have S igned his designs either F K t R C . . . F . or On some copies from the car oons of aphael A 1 6 8 . appears the inscription F . Clein fec . nno 4 The mark of the Mortlake tapestry was the s hield of R R M r l F . . e . e . o t . C . S t . George , with , Car g , 1 6 2 2 S ir s ts Writing, about , to the K ing, Franci represen s u ss is s t the impossibility of continuing the work nle he a sis ed,

I I O T E PLA X X I . T HE R I V ER FRO N T MOR T LA KE

“ the Prince ! Charles! having promised him to keep the fire ” “ ! goi nge . H e continues The Prince gave me order to go in hande with a riche suite of the months, and to send to c e rta n e R ! U rbin Genua for y drawings of aphael , of , which

de sse i n e s X . were g for tapestries made for Pope Leo the , and is 00 for which there £ 3 to be payed , besides their charge of ” “ ! bringing home . Further on , he says I am out already bu s n e s above in the y , and never made returns of more than and goes on to declare he cannot keep the manufacture going for more than a month longer unless the K ing provides for its continuance .

Patronage of the products of the factory seems , however, to have increased amongst the nobility ; and Charles , on his accession , conveyed considerable property in N orthampton s S ir hire and elsewhere to Francis , together with a joint a R patent with Frances , Dow ger Duchess of ichmond and

a . Lennox , for the exclusive coin ge and issue of farthing tokens 1 6 6 S ir a a I n 3 Fr ncis died in Paris after a surgic l operation . ’ S ir Francis Crane gave £ 500 towards rebuilding S t . Paul s

Cathedral , and provided for the maintenance of four additional poor Knights at Windsor Castle . S H is portrait , by Vandyck , was engraved by J ohn imes , 2 R e 1 8 0 . Vandyck and ubens both h lped him with designs ; Rubens provid ing him with six sketches of the story of A chilles , and Vandyck with cartoons of the borders of the A A cts of the postles . Cle n R M y , the limner, a native of ostock , in ecklenburg , M besides his work at ortlake , painted a ceiling at H olland

S . H ouse , Kensington , and some rooms at omerset H ouse ’ S ir R S ir ran c is s ichard Crane , F brother and heir, sold d the works to the King , and various records of isbursements a for cartoons , s laries , and repairs , as well as of receipts for sets of hangings sold , still exist . The works were maintained by the S tate during the 1 6 6 1 S ir S I nterregnum , and in ackville Crow persuaded

Charles I I . to take up the position of patron .

I I I “ V arrio ( where sprawl the saints of V e rrio and La guerre ” ) was employed here as well as at Windsor and

H ampton Court . M 1 66 S ir R I n arch , 7 , the heirs of ichard Crane were required to deliver up to William Earl of Craven , William A f all shburnham ( cof erer), and Thomas Povey , the houses , lands , and implements used in the tapestry manufacture at M ortlake , and the assignees engaged to work it at their own expense without the Government subsidy . But in A ugust O fthe same year the whole was transferred ’ k r B r u n c e . Mr . o to H enry , mentioned in Evelyn s Diary A bout 1 6 70 Lady H arvey appears to have been in posse ssion of the works . A he 1 1 mongst t Treasury papers under date J anuary, — - 1 0 2 S . S 7 3 , a report of Travers ( urveyor General to the Lord H igh Treasurer) states that he had su rveyed the M Tapestry H ouse at ortlake . The buildings appeared to be very old and ruinous , consisting of two piles built of brick , M one pointing the way leading from Barnes to ortlake , and m a the other extending fro that way tow rds the Thames , wherein were two work houses , one with twelve looms and the other four, over which were garrets and an old chapel . The ground floors were small apartments for labourers in the manufactory, within which was a courtyard and a tenement - was therein where the maste r workman lived , which standing thereon before the work house was built by King Charles the ” First . I n 1 70 3 a patent was issued on the petition of Daniel

H arvey , releasing the condition that the buildings should only be used for tapestry works , so after an existence of a eighty years they were fin lly closed . c The principal subjects exe uted , of which record remains , were . A A The cts of the postles, 5 pieces .

The H istory of Vulcan , 4 pieces . A S 6 . tory of chilles, pieces

1 1 2

PETE RS HA M E T E RS HA M is mentioned in Doomsday Book as A t P at rice sham . the time of the Norman Conquest A the manor was the property of the bbey of S t . Peter at Chertsey , and from this circumstance it no doubt derived ’ its name of Peter s H am , or village . I n the time of William the Conqueror the fishery was 1 1 estimated to produce 000 eels and 000 lampreys annually . A ubrey states that Petersham enjoyed the privilege that

no person could be arrested in it , nor any person under arrest brought through it which privilege was lost by what A ubrey

terms scandalous neglect . By the Chertsey community it was conveyed to K ing V r . H en y , and continued for a considerable time in the hands V I I ’ I . s A of the Crown . Upon H enry repudiation of nne

of Cleves , and subsequent divorce from her, the manor of Petersham was part of the provision settled on her for her S he maintenance ; and surrendered it to Edward V I . some

time later . E s By J ames I . it was leased to George Cole , q , who is

buried in the parish church . 1 6 1 0 I n it was granted to H enry, Prince of Wales , who

died two years later .

1 6 1 . R I n 7 James I settled it , together with ichmond ,

H am , and Chertsey , on Charles , Prince of Wales .

I n 1 6 3 7 Charles I . granted a lease of it to William H u n t in tow Murray , whom he afterwards created Baron g e r M and Earl of Dysart . This William urray was introduced

to the king by his uncle , who had been tutor and secretary to ’ Mu him when Prince of Wales . rray s eldest daughter, wife — u s Q 2 S ir Tolle mache e of Lionel , succe ded to the title and estates , and in the family of the Earls of Dysart it has remained ever

S i nce . A celebrated mansion , known as New Park , formerly existed at Petersham . I t was the property of the Earl of ’ R - ochester, and a large bird s eye view of it by Kip shows its extent . The house , unless there is some confusion in the minds of the local historians , appears also to have been called

. 1 2 1 Petersham Lodge I t was destroyed by fire in 7 , and

Lysons gives a circumstantial account of the disaster, with dramatic details , copied from a contemporary newspaper . S ome few of the pictures, with a small part of the fur n it u re , were saved , but the loss his lordship has sustained cannot be computed at less than between 40 and which is yet not the worst , in that the greater part of the loss is irreparable by the burning of his writings , all the fine family the pictures , and others , and the library , among which were ’ books of the Lord Chancellor Clarendon , his lordship s grand ” father . A new house on the site was erected by William , first

Earl of H arrington , after a design by the Earl of Burlington . a u This p ssed successively thro gh the hands of Lord Camelford ,

H . R H . . the Duke of Clarence (afterwards K ing William S ir M 1 8 and William anners , and in 3 4 it was sold to the

Woods and Forests Department , and pulled down . During the Duke of Clarence ’s occupation a small portion of Richmond Park was added to the grounds by a rant from M u whic the king , including the o nt , the site upon tradition S u relates that H enry V I I I . watched for the ignal which sho ld A apprise him of the execution of Queen nne Boleyn . The most remarkable person connected with the place “ was Catherine H yde , Duchess of Queensberry , the Kitty , ” beautiful and young, of Prior, and the staunch friend and patroness of Gay the poet, who made his home here . R Of Petersham Common , a part was absorbed by ich s s R mond Park , but a part till remain between the Lower oad

1 1 6

P ETE RS HA M C H U RC H

C H U RC H existed here at the time of the Conquest ;

but the present structure , according to a note in the

parish register, quoted by Lysons , dates only from T 1 0 . 5 5 his assignment of date can , however , only apply to

&c . the shell of the building , as the windows , , are all certainly

. u of a much later period The structure is of red brick , cr ci

a . A form , with miniature tower curious feature of the internal arrangements is , that the transepts form the long arms of the cross and the chancel , and the tower which forms the entrance , the shorter arms ; so that there is practically no nave . S The note in the register, alluded to above , tates that the church was built on the north side of the abbey ; but no record of the existence of a conventual establishment at

Petersham remains . M A The church formerly belonged to erton bbey , and it is dedicated to S t . Peter . 1 0 The parish registers begin in 5 7 , but are very imperfect in the earlier years . 1 2 66 I n , Divine service having been discontinued in the t chapel of Petersham , an agreemen was made between the Prior of Merton and the inhabitants of the parish for a offi ciat e S chaplain to there on undays , Wednesdays , and — F ridays , on these conditions That the Prior and Convent should furnish him annually , out of the Tithes , with a certain portion of grain ; and that the parishioners , for their part , should give him a bushel of rye for every virgate (ten acres) of land in the parish . u There are mon ments in the church to George Cole ,

1 1 9 E s R A q , ecorder in the ugmentation Office , who died in

1 2 1 6 . 6 4 ; and Frances , his wife , who died 3 3 Their recum e ffi ie s bent g lie under a canopy flanked by Corinthian columns , and beneath is the smaller figure of George Cole ’s grandson

a . and n mesake , who was the son of Gregory Cole To a E s 1 6 6 R S E s Thom s Gilbert q , 7 ; obert cott , q , of H orsley ir K 1 0 S n t . H ill , 7 7 ; Thomas J enner, , successively Baron of u the E xchequer and J stice of the Court of Common Pleas , 1 0 1 6 7 7 ; H enry Green , 54 ; J ane , daughter of J ames Long , E s 1 6 1 1 q , of Draycott , 5 ; Colonel William Duckett , 7 49 ; S E s 1 0 M S ir N athaniel cott , q , 7 7 ; ary , wife of J ames Cock

1 6 6 . burn , Bart . , 7 Captain George Vancouver, who died in 1 8 R 7 9 , and whose praise of ichmond scenery is quoted in R u this volume in the note headed ichmond H ill , is b ried u u here . The mon ment to his memory is th s inscribed

I n t h e e me t e ad on n t s c u c w e e n e e d i n the e a C ry j i i g hi h r h r i t rr , y r

1 8 th e mo a e m a n s ofC a ta n G e o e V an c ou e R . N . w ose 79 , rt l r i p i rg v r , , h val uable an d e n te rprisin g voyage ofdiscove ry toth e N orth Pacifi c O c ean an d oun d t he wo d du n w e n t -fi ve e a s ofa o ou s su e adde d r rl , ri g t y y r l b ri rv y , h h m m gre at ly tot h e ge ogr aphic al kn owle dge of i s cou n trym e n . Tot e e ory ofthat c e le brate d N avigator thi s mon u m e n tal table t is e re c t e d by th e ’ u dson s B a C om an Ma c 1 8 1 . H y p y , r h , 4

M A s to ary and gnes Berry , the friend of Pope , referred A u . under Twickenham , are b ried here lso Theodora J ane

his s . Cowper cousin of the Poet , and the Delia of poem u rch ard s M I n this c y also lie the remain of ortimer Collins,

us s . vivacio noveli t , charming essayist , and graceful poet H e t to came from Knowl H ill , his Berkshire residence , on a visi i n r ti cul m r tis R s a o o . ichmond, when almo t

1 20

cleuch . Canning resided here , and during the tenancy of the Earl of Durham the Re fOrm Bill of 1 83 2 was drawn up in this house .

Petersham H ouse , adjoining the church , has a fine pair of gates leading from the garden into the meadow behind, as as well the entrance gates in the village street . The rear ’ Mr view is shown in . Way s drawing of the church . M Re v r . Bute H ouse , latterly a school , kept by the late . M Godby , was once the residence of the Dowager archioness of Bute , and afterwards of her uncle , Lord Dudley Coutts It as 1 8 S tuart . was demolished recently as 9 5 .

1 2 2 PL A T E XXIII . R U T L A N D L O DG E

HA M H O U S E

A M S i r H ouse was built by Thomas Vavasour, Knight

M . arshall of the H ousehold , in the reign of J ames I Vi vat R ex Over the principal entrance are the words ,

M. . a 1 6 1 0 . with the d te , and the initials T V

The story that the house was built for H enry , Prince of

Wales , is discredited , although he may possibly have lived here for a time . 1 6 2 1 6 2 I n 4 or 5 , the house , with the lands belonging to R it , was surrendered to J ohn amsay , Earl of H olderness , by M “ ” whom , or, as anning says , more probably h is heirs , the

S M . place was given or old to William urray , whom Charles I I t — created Baron H u n t in gtowe r and Earl of Dysart . was S ir made over to his wife , who devised it to Lionel Tolle mache , husband of her eldest daughter . From this lady

Countess of Dysart in her own right, whose second husband — was J ohn , Earl of Lauderdale the property has descended continuously in the same family to the present day .

The house is surrounded by long avenues of elms , is of red brick , and has two fronts , the principal facing the river . A R e m oror s range of leaden busts of oman p , painted

- stone colour , occupy oval niches in the brickwork between a the b sement and the first storey , and also in the side walls t - leading to the terrace , where large wrough iron gates and a moat divide the grounds from the adj acent meadow . I n the centre of the lawn is a fine statue OfThames in stone .

S everal of the rooms are hung with rich tapestries . The backs of several of the fi re - places are decorated with the S u t art arms .

— 1 2 3 R 2 A a djoining the entrance h ll , which is paved with black and white marble , is a small wainscotted chapel , containing - a prayer book presented by Charles I I . to the first Earl of

Dysart . The royal arms are embroidered on the cover in gold and silver . A ’ A large apartment , called the Queen s udience Cham ber, hung with tapestry , is also known as the Cabal Chamber . H ere were held the secret conferences by the ministry known Cabal as the , from the initials of their names , when J ohn ,

Earl of Lauderdale , husband of E lizabeth , Countess of Dysart ,

. A was master of H am H ouse Clifford , rlington , Buckingham , A s shley , and Lauderdale were the names of the five minister .

The flooring of the room is of parquet , containing the cypher of the Countess Elizabeth . A valuable collection of antique china is stored in the the room known as the China Closet ; and in Library , besides many rare and valuable works , precious in a less degree , are axt n s no fewer than fourteen C o . A - large picture gallery, hung with portraits by Vandyke , H o n e r ! Lely , K neller, pp , J ansen , ucchero , Constable , and I . I R . eynolds , includes portraits of James , Charles , and

Charles I I . , and many members of the Dysart family . A mongst the curiosities in the house is a lock of the hair of ’ ’ z R R Eli abeth s Earl of Essex , and achel , Lady ussell s prayer

book . The apartments known as the Duchess of Lauder ’ dale s have remained in the exact order in which S he left

them at her death . I I Charles . is said to have stopped here in his flight from A the Parliamentary rmy , and a legend is recorded to the f e fect that the great gates facing the avenue had , until a year S S or two since , never been unlocked ince they hut the king in

an d his pursuers out . ’ H orace Walpole s niece , having married an Earl of

Dysart , he visited her here , and describes it as so dreary that you might think yourself a hundred miles O ffand a ” h u ndred years back .

1 24

formerly his p rop e rt ) have been housed in The verses on 1 tit le

R . d, ar f ichmon e, rom H enley POS TS CR I PT

’ S Mr H E E notes , compiled to accompany . Way s

drawings , are in the main a mosaic , pieced together

from the writings of earlier workers in the same field . With a few trivial exceptions the information contained in them is derived from the following sources

’

Mr E dw n B e e s o d C an ce or s Histor o Ri chmond . . i r f r h ll y f ’ m M m ials o ckenha . R . . Cobbe tt s e or Twi Th e R e v . S f ’ - - Dr . G arn e tt s Ri chmond ou Thames . ’ ’ Mr e d Tu n e s G eor e E liot at Ri chmond H omc Counti es Ma az ine . . Fr r r g ( g ) ’ nd A ociations H ome A . e on a d S u mm e s K cw ! I ts P alaces a ss Mr . L r r ( ’ un t es Ma az i ne Co i g ) . ’ h u re Ma az i ne . r A . e on a d u m m e s A Vani s i n Vi lla e S r M . L r S r g g ( y g ) ’

o n E u stace An de son s H i stor o Mortlake . Mr . J h r y f ’ Mr o n E u st ace A n de son s P am hl et on the Ta estr Wor ks . . J h r p p y ’ Mr n E u st ac e A n de son s P am hlet on Mor tlake otter ies . . J oh r p P ( Th e last t hre e private ly prin t e d . ) To each and all of these writers I desire to express my i ndebtedness . I have also consulted

’ ’ r A lk r m L ondon toKew S i r Ric ha d Phillips Morni ng s Wa fo . ’ M ss aet t a Ma da awk n s A necdotes Memoirs (S n. i L i i til H i , ,

and , of course

’ nd n Lyson s E nvi rons ofL o o . I n the process of selection and compression the necessity “ ” of joining the flats has occasioned some re -writing ; but

where no such demand arose, I felt that to paraphrase would f be an af ectation of original research , for which the writers

named have left little room . The notes do not pretend to be exhaustive of their s ubjects .

1 2 6

R WAY B OO K S BY T H OMA S .

’ H T S T H OG AP HY . The Cata o ue MR . W I S LER LI R l g

TH MAS W AY . e m 8vc . c ompile d by O R . D y ° G. ell 6 S on s 1 8 6 B , 9

N N . RELIQU E S OF O LD LO D O 4to. -0 ons 1 8 6 6 . ell 6 S B , 9

o. LATER RELI QU E S O F O LD LO N D ON . 4t 4 0. ell 6 S ons 1 8 B , 97 S UBU RBA N RELI QU E S N O RT H O F TH E

H G . ell 6" S ons 1 8 8 T AM S . to. E 4 B , 9 TH AME S -S ID E AND S OU TH S UBU RBA N R E l * S ons 1 8 LI U E S . 6 . el 6 Q B , 99

( The te xt ofthe four pre ce ding volume s i s by H . B. W HEATLEY,