a new journey, a new story . . . waterfallway

An exciting journey of discovery,

linking Coffs Coast to the New Tableland,

through a landscape rich in culture and natural history. Come and start your own story.

A new journey, a new story . . . Muttonbird Island - Coffs Coast Headland

‘Thank you’

New England Ecotourism Society, proponents of the New England to Contents: Coffs Coast Cross Region Sustainable 3 Tourism Strategy, would like to acknowledge the valuable support of 4-5 community stakeholders and Councils Contents...... 6 including , Bellingen, ...... Nambucca, Guyra, Armidale Location Map Dumaresq, Walcha and Uralla...... Members of the Project Management Introduction 8-9 Committee who provided professional ...... advice and assistance include: Brian - A Food and Wine Journey 10 -11 A Taste of the Way ...... Stokes ( Council), Rob 12 -15 Cleary (Coffs Harbour City Council), - A Bird Watching Journey Meet the Birds ...... Charlie Winter ( Council), - A Walking Journey 16 -17 David Nalder (NPWS), David Lawrence The Way Less Travelled ...... (New England Ecotourism Society), - A Cycling Journey 18 -19 Don Tydd (Northern Inland Regional Another Way to Travel ...... Development Board), Glen Chapman - A Family Journey 20-21 (New England Ecotourism Society), The Way of the Child ...... - An Aboriginal Journey Stuart Allardice (Armidale Regional 22 Tourism), Jeannet van der Lee (Centre The Way of the Spirit for Ecological Economics and Water 23 Policy Research UNE), Brian Sherratt Green Travel...... (Tourism Bellinger), Peter Lloyd (Chair, ...... New England to Coffs Coast Cross Getting Here. Region Sustainable Tourism Strategy), Robin Heath ( Aboriginal Land Council), Roger Fryer ( Ecotourism Society Inc), Shaun O’Sullivan (New England North West Area Consultative Committee), Steve Widders (Armidale Dumaresq Council), Colin Munro (Coffs Harbour Chamber of Design and Production Team: Commerce), Mark Stevens (Armidale Manuela Taboada, Hazel Wallace, Sue Webber and Martin Lang, at the Centre for A new journey, a new story . . . & District Chamber of Commerce), Ecological Economics & Water Policy Research, University of New England, Stephen Pahl (Ecotourism ), in collaboration with local community members and stakeholders. Wayne Lowe (Nambucca Shire Council), Alex Pawlow ( (extracts from) Council) and in particular Tourism Printed by: Bellbirds ( . . . ) . Finsbury Green on 100% recycled paper using soy inks. Welcome as waters unkissed by the summers Please consider the environment when disposing of this publication. By channels of coolness the echoes are calling, Are the voices of bell-birds to the thirsty far-comers. © 2007 New England Ecotourism Society And down the dim gorges I hear the creek falling: When fiery December sets foot in the forest, It lives in the mountain where moss and the sedges And the need of the wayfarer presses the sorest, New England to Coffs Coast Cross Region Disclaimer of liability with their beauty the banks and the ledges. Pent in the ridges for ever and ever Sustainable Tourism Strategy. The bell-birds direct him to spring and to , New England Ecotourism Society (NEES) is a not-for-profit, incorporated organisation and proponent of the Through breaks of the cedar and sycamore bowers New England to Coffs Coast Cross Region Sustainable Tourism Strategy, an Australian Government-funded Struggles the light that is love to the flowers; With ring and with ripple, like runnels who torrents An Australian Government-funded initiative initiative under the Australian Tourism Development Program – Category 2. And, softer than slumber, and sweeter than singing, Are toned by the pebbles and the leaves in the currents. under the Australian Tourism Development Program. NEES does not invite reliance upon, nor accept responsibility for, the information it provides as part of the The notes of the bell-birds are running and ringing. project. NEES makes every effort to provide a high quality service. However, neither NEES, its Contractors, The silver-voiced bell-birds, the darlings of daytime! Henry Kendall nor the Providers or Lenders of data, images or text relating to the project, give any guarantees, undertakings They sing in September their songs of the May-time; or warranties concerning the accuracy, completeness or up-to-date nature of the information provided. Users should confirm information from another source if it is of sufficient importance for them to do so. When shadows wax strong, and the thunder bolts hurtle, They hide with their fear in the leaves of the myrtle; Hypertext links on/in NEES project websites and published texts are (in most cases) inserted by NEES project When rain and the sunbeams shine mingled together, new england ecotourism society personnel, not by the data providers. Insertion of hypertext links on NEES project websites and published texts, www.ecotourism.com.au as at 1 July 2007, may not be comprehensive or accurate in all cases. NEES, its Contractors, Lenders and They start up like fairies that follow fair weather; Tel: 1800 89 79 30 Providers of data, images or texts relating to the project, do not give any guarantees, undertakings or warranties And straightway the hues of their feathers unfolden concerning hypertext linking. Are the green and the purple, the blue and the golden.

2 - Image courtesy of: Martin Lang, Ron Webster (cover image) visitwaterfallway.com.au - 3 Boundaries and positions are approximate

Yuraygir Chaelundi National Park The National Park Tingha Copeton Dam Nymboida National Park National Park Nymboi Binderay National Park Woolgoolga Guyra

DorrigoDorrigo National Park Coffs Harbour Visitor Centres: Bongil Bongil Cathedral Rock National Park Walcha National Park National Park 51w Street, Walcha. Armidale Ebor Phone 02 6774 2460. Bellingen New England Uralla National Park 104 Bridge Street, Uralla. Urunga Phone 02 6778 4496. Wollomombi Cunnawarra Armidale Uralla National Park 82 Marsh Street, Armidale. Phone 02 6772 4655. Nambucca Guyra New England , Guyra. Heads Phone 02 6779 1876.

Dorrigo Hickory Street, Dorrigo. Phone 02 6657 2486. Walcha Oxley Wild National Park Bellingen Doepel Street, Bellingen. Hat Head Phone 02 6655 1522. National Park

Urunga Willi Willi National Park Pacific Highway, Urunga. Phone 02 6655 5711. Werrikimbe Kumbatine National Park National Park

Nambucca Heads Cnr. Pacific Highway and Riverside Drive, Nambucca Heads. Cottan-Bimbang Phone 02 6568 6954. National Park

Coffs Harbour New South Wales Co s Cnr. Pacific Highway and McLean Street, Armidale Harbour Coffs Harbour. Wauchope Phone 1300 369 070 or 02 6648 4990.

Woolgoolga Boundary Street, Woolgoolga. Phone 02 6654 8080

visitwaterfallway.com.au - 5 Elaine Delaney, Walcha Tread Softly Mortal Man Fresh mountain streams with sparkling force Drop swiftly over rock and gorge, The mist hangs low on distant hills 5. Hinterland Chuckling ‘neath the moss and fern. 3. Mt Hyland sunrise Slowly creeps and gently spills, Into the valleys and gullies below. 1. Headland Wombats meander along well beaten paths Eagles circle high, riding wind drafts, Earth lies still, all moist and damp Kangaroos laze idly in leafy shade. The dew so soft on leaf and plant, Reflecting delicate webs of lace. Nature’s cycle since time gave birth Brings peace, pervading sky and earth. Lyrebirds call from deep in the bush Mortal man tread softly, Parrots screech shrilly breaking the hush, guard these treasures - Wallabies pause - and then resume flight. 2. Tableland Be aware! 4. Guyra frost 6. Kunderang

Introduction

Somewhere high on the , rain is rainforests and down to the Coffs Coast. It is home to falling. It is filling the lagoons where Japanese snipe fly rare and endangered plants and animals that live in an thousands of kilometres to come to feed, it waters cool- incredible variety of habitats. It is a new journey for you climate vines, swelling grapes for the to explore, and a new story to experience. next vintage. A little creek flows across the high pastures and through forests, This is the Waterfall The people who live around the Waterfall until it plunges over a waterfall. In the Way, an awe inspiring Way region are keen to welcome you and waterfall’s spray and mist, a rainbow share their stories, their places and their journey from the produce. So, take a walk with a local guide, appears and the river descends into high tablelands of deep, gorge country, the home of the learn to milk a cow, taste locally-grown brush-tailed rock-wallaby. New England through and prepared food and wine, discover an the rainforests and Aboriginal perspective, bicycle through a new Ancient, mossy forests, a remnant of down to the Coffs landscape or wait quietly at dawn to see the Gondwana, drip with water. Shady Coast. birds. rainforests drink their fill, while bats feast on nectar high in the canopy. Each journey is like a story that leaves you The river grows wider and deeper as it Each journey is like wanting to know what happens in the next approaches the coast. High above the a story that leaves chapter. It’s a story you can come back to trees, a sea-eagle soars, searching for you wanting to know again and again, discovering more each visit. fish in the water below. what happens in the Take your time and the Waterfall Way will Winding slowly, the river fills the next chapter . . . unfold for you with new people and places wetlands where black swans nest. Tiny that are worth slowing down to experience. fish dart through the waters of an estuary edged with The journeys that follow are a taste of the Waterfall mangroves. The sea is roaring, surf tumbling onto a Way. You’ll find all the information you need to create wide, sandy beach and farther out, in the ocean at the your own journey with details about places to stay, edge of the continental shelf, a humpback whale is places to visit and things to do on the Waterfall Way calling to her calf. website at: This is the Waterfall Way - an awe-inspiring journey from the high tablelands of New England through the www.visitwaterfallway.com.au

A new journey, a new story . . .

Ebor Falls in full flow 6 - Images courtesy of: Hazel Wallace (1, 5, main image), Michael Taylor (2, 6), Rob Cleary (3), David Henderson (4) visitwaterfallway.com.au - 7 Dorrigo Pepper 5. Cool climate Tasmannia stipitata wine Dorrigo Pepper is a 1. Kunderang 3. Farming rainforest shrub that grows fishing around Dorrigo. It has long thin leaves and creamy white flowers in summer.

Dried leaves and berries give a sharp, hot, spicy flavour used as a seasoning 6. Native Raspberry like black pepper. 2. Lady-finger palm 4. Local trout 7. Pepper bush A Taste of the Way . . . Food and wine bring us together

“I use the Dorrigo Relaxing over a good meal with family, friends, drinking, fruit-driven wines which are available from Pepper that grows in plenty of conversation and laughter is a wonderful the cellar door and at local hotels and restaurants. way to enjoy the local produce of the Waterfall Along the coast at Coffs Harbour, you’ll find a the paddocks around Way. , Dorrigo cheese, fleet of fishing boats that venture out daily to Share a yarn with the people who grow and catch local fish. They bring home a diverse catch, boysenberry jelly and produce the local food and wine as you visit because the sea here carries the warm currents wine, local beef and their farms along the Waterfall Way. Meeting the from the north and the cooler waters from the potatoes. The red soil people and tasting their produce is your personal south. You can choose from a wide range of fresh introduction to the country and its food and wine. fish that includes snapper, kingfish, tuna, pearl makes good potatoes, I perch and parrot fish. Cook the fish yourself or try like to mash them or bake Give your visit a regional flavour by buying food a seafood meal around the Coffs Harbour jetty or in at the growers’ markets and ask at restaurants for one of the local restaurants. them whole. dishes made with local ingredients. Coffs Harbour is famous for a certain large yellow Trying locally-produced food and wine is a great We get 100 inches of rain fruit so you shouldn’t miss tasting the local way to enjoy the Waterfall Way region while bananas, avocados, blueberries and strawberries here and that means looking after the environment and supporting local while you’re in the area. great feed for the cattle. communities. Eating locally means that the food is Heading north along the coast, you’ll know you’ve The area used to be fresh and doesn’t have to travel long distances to markets and shops. When you buy locally-grown reached Woolgoolga when you see the distinctive famous for its butter but produce, you connect to the community that you Guru Nanak Sikh temple on the hill. There’s a large that's not made now but visit and also reduce your ecological footprint. Sikh population in this small beachside village and the annual Curryfest in April is the best time to try a there is a local cheese Succulent fruits, honey and seafood are the wide variety of curries. maker making double highlights of the subtropical coastal region, brie, fetta and camembert where the abundant sunshine and water create As you travel inland the soils and climate change as sensational local produce. You’ll find restaurants the road climbs through the rainforest. If the coast that I use on a cheese serving local food and wine, and roadside stalls provides a starter and dessert, the mountains platter with quince paste, selling the produce grown in lush valleys and on provide the main course of beef, lamb and potatoes. or I crumble the fetta sunny hillsides. Dorrigo is famous for its potatoes, grown in over a salad with roasted Visit the Macksville region to try the local bush the rich red soil. Team the potatoes with Dorrigo beetroot. tucker of lillipillies, Davidson plums, lemon and Pepper, a spicy seasoning from the leaves and aniseed myrtle, native limes and macadamia nuts. berries of a native plant that is harvested locally and These local ingredients give the special flavours to sold in the town. While you’re here, try the local fruit I look for locally-grown the award-winning Macksville sausages. Locally- wines and jellies and taste the Dorrigo cheeses. herbs from people’s grown and processed macadamias are available as Further inland, the high country grows tasty beef gardens and I use the plain or flavoured varieties for you to try and buy. and lamb. In Guyra, they celebrate the local Dorrigo Pepper that’s Around Urunga, taste the local honey with its rich, produce every year with the Lamb and Potato festival in January. Close to Guyra you can catch native to the area. It’s full flavour from the coastal forests. The bees do well here, where plentiful rainfall means that the and taste locally produced trout, which are grown harvested by two local trees and plants produce an abundance of flowers. and smoked on the farm. high school students who Male and female flowers of the The volcanic soil of the valleys is a rich source of South of Walcha, berry farms produce an Dorrigo Pepper grow on separate dry it over the bakery nutrients for organically-grown fruit and vegetables. extensive variety of berries for jams and berry plants. The berries grow on the ovens. They dry the The light winter frosts create a great range of wines. Grapes also grow well and the high country female plants; they are blackish, sweet citrus for you to try, including mandarins, around Armidale produces an impressive range oval-shaped and grow up to a berries and leaves and of wines. The region’s climate with summer rain and pomelos, oranges, lemons and grapefruit. In centimetre long. bag it up to sell.” cool winters creates wines with a distinctive regional summer, the warmer weather ripens juicy mangoes character. The climate favours cool European grape and sweet, lady-finger bananas. Kenton Shaw, Dorrigo varieties that produce softer, fruitier styles of wine. Add Dorrigo Pepper at the end of

The local winery uses French hybrid grape varieties Combine the wines with some local beef or lamb cooking for a hot seasoning, suitable for the subtropical climate to produce easy- for a taste of the Waterfall Way. If you prefer a milder seasoning, add it during cooking. Sea Fishing - Coffs Headland

8 - Images courtesy of: Coffs Coast Marketing (main image), Mark Stevens (1), Hazel Wallace (2, 4, 5, 6), Michael Taylor (3), Mal Dwyer (7) Regent Honeyeater 5. Mother of Ducks Xanthomyza phrygia 1. Galah Lagoon 3. Rainbow Bee-eater Also known as warty-faced honeyeater and embroidered honeyeater. Mugga ironbark trees provide a good food source for these birds when in flower, as do white box, yellow box, Blakely’s red gum, swamp mahogany, spotted gum, mistletoe and 6. Tawny Frogmouth bottlebrush ( callistemon). 2. Moonee They also eat insects, lerps 4. Wedgetail Eagle and some fruit if necessary.

7. Regent Honeyeater Meet the Birds . . . The way of an eagle in the air

“The swans come in The Waterfall Way is a wonderful meeting place for and the green catbird with its call that sounds like a October and November birds. The region is like a huge crossroads with cat or a wailing baby. birds arriving from the south and the north of Travelling down to the coastal regions, you’ll find when the weed grows. I Australia. Others fly in from Japan, New Guinea or see them flying in groups the Philippines. The exciting diversity of habitats another range of habitats for local and visiting birds. Rainbow bee-eaters dig their metre-long of half a dozen to 15, three means that birdwatchers have the chance to see a wide range of species in one region. nesting tunnels near the coast here. These brightly- or four times a day. In coloured birds fly south from the Kimberley and summer when they’re If you’re looking for your first jabiru, an endangered Gulf of Carpentaria to breed here. You can often regent honeyeater, the nest tunnels of the rainbow out there in the wetland see them during summer along the Lake Road at bee-eater or black swan cygnets, then there are Woolgoolga where an area is fenced off to protect the honking is like a some special places to visit along the Waterfall Way. their nests. They nest in groups and help each other symphony of swans. If Dangar’s Lagoon, just outside Uralla on to dig their nesting tunnels and share the incubation you could, you’d put it on Thunderbolt’s Way, is a favourite with waterbirds and feeding of their chicks. You can watch them toast and eat it. because it is one of the few lagoons in the area catch bees, wasps and other insects as they swoop that usually has water. It was declared as a from their perches near their nesting site. Wildlife Refuge in 1972 and more than 110 species I like to take people to go Muttonbirds or wedge-tailed shearwaters visit of birds have been recorded there. Take a walk Coffs Harbour between August and May to and see the little cygnets around the lagoon to the bird hide where you may breed on Muttonbird Island. Walk along the Coffs hiding in the bushes. be able to watch pink-eared, blue-billed and musk Harbour breakwater to reach the island where the ducks, shovelers, hardheads, Australasian and People really get a rush shearwaters nest. They dig or repair burrows on hoary-headed grebes and great crested grebes, the island and lay their eggs underground. The best when they see half a whiskered terns, sharp-tailed sandpipers, marsh time to watch them is when they return at dusk sandpipers and greenshanks to name just a few of dozen cygnets ducking with food for their mates and chicks in the burrow. the visitors. and diving. If I close my By April the chicks are fully grown and may weigh eyes I can just see it – the Another popular breeding and feeding ground more than their parents. Most of the adults leave big males honking to for waterbirds is the Mother of Ducks Lagoon in the island first and the chicks follow early in May. Guyra. Next to the town’s golf course, this lagoon South from Coffs Harbour along the coast at tell all the others you’re is a freshwater wetland in a volcanic crater, 14km Boambee and Sawtell are good spots to look for coming. around. Take a walk along the edge to watch the brilliant yellow and black regent honeyeater. for black ducks, black swans, straw-necked ibis, This bird was once common in New South Wales grey teals, hoary-headed grebes, musk ducks, but now only 1500 birds are estimated to survive in It’s special to see four or swamphens, woodhens and Japanese snipe. The Once spread throughout at least four states Australia. This is one of several woodland birds that five hundred black swans Japanese snipe breed in Japan then leave in August and one territory, there are now only an have severely declined due to vegetation clearance. happily munching away. for the long journey to Australia through Taiwan, estimated 1,500 to 800 birds still left in It’s a sight you don’t Eastern New Guinea and arrive in Australia at Cape Mangroves provide valuable habitat for fish Australia, existing in small populations York to fly down the east coast for the Australian throughout NSW, , ACT and QLD. It forget.” and birds and at Urunga you can explore the summer. This important migration route for waders mangroves without getting your feet wet. Take is regularly sighted up to 300km inland is covered by an international agreement to protect a walk along the boardwalk that starts at the from the coast, but numbers have dropped Dennis Ryan, Macksville feeding and breeding sites for waterbirds. southern end of the caravan park for a chance to dramatically in the past few decades due to watch estuarine birds feeding in the mangroves. land clearing, drought and competition for As you journey down from the high plateau into food. It breeds around Bundarra/Barraba, the rainforest at Dorrigo the habitat changes and Further south near Macksville you can visit the and also in the Capertee valley near so does the birdlife. Follow a walk through the wetlands where black swans breed and you may Lithgow. Both areas are where much of the rainforest to discover the birds that prefer life see the impressive jabiru or black-necked stork, recovery efforts for the species are being in the cool, green light under the tree canopy. standing over a metre high. undertaken. Walking along the path you’ll hear rustlings in the leaf litter where birds are hunting for insects. There The Waterfall Way covers an incredible range Protecting and enhancing important habitat are plenty of scrubwrens and brush-turkeys along of habitats where new and experienced areas will benefit the environment as well the tracks. Look out for the bright red and green birdwatchers will find a wonderful variety of as the regent honeyeater and king parrots, yellow and black regent bowerbirds, species to watch and enjoy. other wildlife. Birdwatching at Dangar’s Lagoon - Uralla

10 - Images courtesy of: Charlie Winter (1), Hazel Wallace (2, 4, 5, 6 and main image), David Cook (3), Pam Rooney (7) 4. 10. Out to sea 12. Cow Chair 5. Bowerbird’s 8. Rose Robin sculpture 2. Kentucky bower

Out to sea 3. Wollomombi Gorge 13. Uralla granite 6. Bellingen

9. McCrossin’s Mill 1. Dangar’s Falls 7. Rainforest The Way Less Travelled . . . 11. Kentucky snow Take some time out 5 “Settled into camp and Experience the world on foot. Walking helps red cedar and coachwood. There are many bird’s Warrigal circuit, Cathedral Rock National Wollomombi Gorge, Oxley Wild Rivers had a great spot to set you slow down, connect with the earth and nest and elkhorn ferns high in the trees, and vines Park. Easy - 1km circuit. Picnic tables and National Park. Easy - 1-2km. up my tent. Made a cup become rejuvenated. Relax as you experience the which wrap around trunks and loop from branches. toilet at car park. Picnic tables and toilet at car park. 7 Then the moon rose from panoramic lookouts, the waterfalls and the many It’s a popular place for birdwatchers and the picnic of coffee and went to the Access; From Guyra Road, 13km north of Ebor. Access; From Waterfall Way, 40km east of the horizon, in the same different environments with their special plants, birds area is a good spot to see goannas attracted by rim edge to watch the Start from Native Dog camping area. Armidale. orange glow that was and animals. These walks are just a small sample of the barbeques. sunset. the variety of walks along the Waterfall Way. A walk through the dry woodland of Cathedral A great place to see the gorge and waterfalls previously experienced the The walk leads to a bridge over the creek and up Rock National Park with views from granite after rain. There are several short and easy walks night before. I had been For more information about walks along the Awesome colours of reds steps to see the small waterfall which runs after rain. outcrops. This walk has plenty of interpretive signs along the rim of the gorge, from the picnic area to lying here for about three Waterfall Way, visit the website at and oranges intertwined with information on the park and its plants and lookouts to see the waterfalls. The park is listed on hours, taking in all the www.visitwaterfallway.com.au with the hazy bluey/ Flying-fox walk, Bellingen. 3 animals. Look for native orchids and Styphelia the World Heritage Register for its extensive dry beauty that surrounded me grey tones of the night Easy - 1-2km circuit. perileuca, a plant special to this area. Because it rainforest and rare and threatened species. but could not move until the Bundageree Rainforest walk, Bongil Bongil mainly occurs in this area it is listed as a Rare or shadows highlighting The falls are among the tallest in Australia with a moon had risen to the point National Park. Easy - 6km return. Access; Through the old Bellingen caravan park, Threatened Australian Plant (ROTAP). The Ebor the breadth and depth 1 total height of more than 200 metres. that it again highlighted Hammond Street to Bellingen Island. styphelia has yellow-green, tube-like flowers with of the valley before me. Access; From Pacific Highway, 6km north of the mountainous terrain Seemed like I was so in fine, pink stripes. It blooms in spring and summer. before me. Silence is Urunga. Follow Tuckers Rock Road to car park Hundreds, and sometimes thousands, of grey- Heritage walk, Uralla. Easy - 1-2km circuit. touch with the spiritual at end. This easy walk follows a track through headed flying-foxes make Bellingen Island their Watch for woodland birds including rose robins, Toilet at Visitor Information Centre. deafening. Unreal!!!” world and was transfixed remnant rainforest parallel to the coast. The home. Walk quietly through Bellingen Island along flycatchers and pardalotes. The area is named for 8 in my comfy position in rainforest here has adapted to the sandy soil and the marked paths and look up to see the bats the and you may see one if you’re very lucky. Access; Start from the Uralla Visitor Information Charlie Winter, Walcha salt winds. You’ll see banksias, tea-trees, strangler Centre on the corner of Bridge and Salisbury St. awe. roosting in the trees during the day. They hang There are a range of other longer walks in the area figs and eucalypts. Look up in the trees for elkhorn upside down to sleep, wrapping their wings around that include a 5.8km walk to the top of Cathedral Pick up a leaflet from the Visitor Information Centre In the stillness of the ferns and orchids. Flycatchers, honeyeaters, their bodies. They also spend the day grooming, Rock with views of the tablelands. before you start and follow the trail to walk past twilight a lyrebird came whipbirds and bowerbirds are often heard and squabbling and changing position on the trees. 34 historic buildings that include McCrossin’s sometimes seen as they flit between the trees. flour mill, built in 1871 and now a museum, the wandering to within 20 These fruit bats fly away to spend the night eating Point Lookout, New England National Coachwood and Cedar Hotel, with its iron lace metres, until he spotted The track emerges from the shade into bright fruit, pollen and nectar. They prefer native plants Park. Easy - Less than 1km. sunlight at Bundagen Headland where the tea- balcony and Uralla granite quoins, as well as old my tiny movement but will eat cultivated fruit when other sources are Picnic tables and toilet at car park. 6 for adjustment for a coloured waters of Bundageree Creek flow into the banks, churches, meeting halls and private homes. scarce. Lavenders Bridge is the best spot to watch Access; From Waterfall Way turn along Point clearer look at him. He sea. On the beach, you may find shells, coral and Much of the iron lace in Uralla was made locally at them leave around dusk. Lookout Road, mainly unsealed. fled over the steepness cuttlefish bones washed up on the sand. Explore the New England Brass and Iron Lace Foundry. into the dark shadows the miniature worlds of the rock pools and look 4 An easy walk from the Point Lookout car park to below. The calling by out for pied cormorants and sooty oystercatchers Norman Jolly Memorial Grove, Nymboi- two viewing platforms with views to the north, 9 perching on the rocks. Binderay National Park. Easy - 800 metres. Sculpture walk, Walcha. Easy - 1-2km. his companions in the east and south. On a clear day you may see the Picnic tables and toilet at McHattan Park. Picnic tables and toilet at car park. Pacific Ocean 70km away. Point Lookout is 1562 gorge echoed into the thin You can return the way you came or walk back to metres above sea level, perched on top of a Access; Start from McHattan Park, Fitzroy Street, the car park along the beach. Access; From Bostobrick follow the unsealed cooling air of the night. steep escarpment. Listen for the superb lyrebird Walcha. Moonpar Road for 11km to Norman Jolly picnic Woolgoolga Waterfall walk, Sherwood mimicking other birds and even car alarms and Cont... Pick up a leaflet about the artworks from the 2 . Easy - 2.8km return. area. cameras. Visitor Information Centre on the corner of Fitzroy Picnic tables and toilet at car park. Park beside the picnic area under the tall canopy of There is a selection of other walks in the area and South Streets. This collection of more than Access; From Pacific Highway turn west at tallowwoods, brush box and Sydney blue gum to including the 2.5km Eagles Nest Track that 25 sculptures and public artworks creates an Woolgoolga roundabout along Pullen Street and walk along the Coachwood Walk. The two largest descends into a mossy, Antarctic beech forest, a interesting and dramatic walk around the town. Creek Road for 3km to left hand turn to Sherwood tallowwood trees here are estimated to be 600 remnant of the Gondwana forests of 80-million- James Roger’s sculpture, Song Cycle dominates Nature Reserve. years old. These trees are rare survivors of the local years ago. the town centre from the roundabout. A collection logging industry and give an insight into how the of sculptures and street furniture follows the Apsley A rare remnant of old growth subtropical rainforest ancient forests would have looked. River, and the town entrances are marked with in the region. This area was logged for cedar and wood and steel sculptures. only small areas of rainforest remain. The walk is Continue along a bush trail, crossing a timber shady and mainly flat. After rain there may be water bridge on the tramline track that was used to take over several creek crossings. The rainforest plants timber to bush mills when the forest was logged in include yellow carabeen with its buttressed trunk, the 1930s.

12 - Images courtesy of: David Henderson (1, 3, 6), Michael Taylor (2, 11, 13), Hazel Wallace (4, 5, main image), Ron Webster (7), David Cook (8, 14), Armidale Tourism (9), Craig Fardell (10) Charlie Winter (12) visitwaterfallway.com.au - 13 Superb Lyrebird Menura novaehollandiae Walking story - key:

Males from 800-1000mm including 500-600mm tail,

females smaller. Yuraygir Chaelundi National Park Upper parts chocolate brown National Park with paler brown underparts. Tingha Copeton Dam The adult male has an ornate Nymboida tail, with two long central Guy Fawkes River National Park National Park Nymboi Binderay 2 plumes, 12 filaments and National Park Woolgoolga two outer feathers which, in Guyra display, assume the shape of 4 a lyre. Males create earth

display mounds where they DorrigoDorrigo National Park Coffs Harbour display and sing to attract a 5 Bongil Bongil Bellinger River Cathedral Rock 3 National Park fem ale. National Park 14. Lyrebird Armidale National Park Ebor 6 Bellingen 1 New England 7 National Park Urunga Wollomombi Cunnawarra Uralla National Park 8 Nambucca Heads

Walcha Oxley Wild Rivers 9 National Park

Hat Head National Park

Willi Willi National Park

Werrikimbe Ku mb atine National Park National Park

Cottan-Bimbang National Park Wauchope

Bundageree Rainforest walk, 1 Bongil Bongil National Park We were unloading our backpacks Woolgoolga Waterfall walk, 2 Sherwood Nature Reserve at Wattle Flat, when we were asked by a somewhat overweight lady 3 Flying-fox walk, Bellingen in thongs how far we’d walked . Norman Jolly Memorial Grove, Peter said “About 300 km from 4 Nymboi-Binderay National Park - we’re going through Warrigal circuit, 5 Cathedral Rock National Park to Coffs Harbour”. She looked

6 Point Lookout, up and down at our 60- plus aged New England National Park faces and said “Well, that’ll keep They can mimic almost any sound Wollomombi Gorge, including chainsaws, horns, 7 Oxley Wild Rivers National Park you out of the nursing home for alarms and even trains but they usually copy the sounds of other a bit longer!” Now all our longer birds and mammals. Females Heritage walk, incubate the single egg, and 8 Uralla the young fledge in six weeks. trips have become “Nursing Home Lyrebirds are found in wet eucalypt and rainforest. Sculpture walk, Walks!”. 9 Walcha David Lawrence, Armidale Lyrebird on Point Lookout walking track

14 - Images courtesy of: Hazel Wallace (1, 2, 5 and main image), Rob Cleary (3), David Henderson (4, 6) visitwaterfallway.com.au - 15 5. Rocky River 1. Dorrigo New England Hairpin Banksia Banksia spinulosa var. neoanglica

An attractive shrub growing to about 1.5 metres high on granite or basalt rock, in heath and woodland, flowering with big, orange ‘bottlebrushes’ in late autumn or winter. First identified one km north of turnoff 2. to New England National Park, 3. Mt Yarrowyck 4. Cycle trip Ebor–Armidale road, 1986. cycling 6. Urunga

Another Way to Travel . . . Cycle from the top of the range down to the sea

“I enjoy the continuous Guyra to Urunga challenge of cycling From the top of the range at Guyra down 1330 metres to the sea at Urunga you’ll ride across high tablelands, take a steep descent through the rainforest and follow the coastal rivers to the sea. All but and especially in our 4km of the road is sealed and most of the ride is on quiet backroads with little traffic. It’s a good idea to area where each ride avoid mid-winter when it can be snowing at Guyra and summer holidays when the traffic is heavier. is an adventure. The You won’t need camping gear because you’ll find accommodation and places to eat each night. Visit the landscape varies Waterfall Way website www.visitwaterfallway.com.au for information on public transport. from open farmland and dairy farms to Day one: Guyra to Ebor - 83km. and allow other vehicles to pass. Bellingen has forests, rainforests, plenty of places to stop for lunch. Start Guyra 1330 metres. Guyra is at the top of the rivers, creeks with Great Dividing Range but that doesn’t mean it’s all Descend on the Waterfall Way from Dorrigo creek crossings and downhill. The ride to Ebor is across the tablelands towards Thora but turn left before you reach Thora magnificent tall trees, with many undulations. There are no food or water along Summervilles Road (14km from Dorrigo) to stops so you’ll need to carry whatever you require stay on the north bank of the Bellinger River. There some 400 years old. for the ride. are two unsealed sections of about 4km in total along this road. Follow the road left to Gordonville Leave Guyra along Ollera Street East (east side of and turn right at the Gleniffer crossroads to follow The views looking over the ) and turn into the Ebor the Gleniffer Road to Bellingen (35km), then either Road following the signs to Ebor. Follow this road the rolling hills of the stay on the north side for North Bank Road or all the way to the Waterfall Way, then turn left there Great Dividing Range are cross the bridge over Bellinger River to the south and ride 4km to Ebor. It’s worth stopping at Ebor side for South Arm Road. magnificent and seem Falls to see the waterfall. to beckon you to come You’ll find overnight accommodation and food in Option one: North Bank Road. Bellingen to Urunga and ride over them. The Ebor but it is best to book in advance. 23km. Total 58km. From the roundabout on the north side of Bellingen bridge follow Wheatley views over the rolling Day two: Ebor to Dorrigo - 57km. Street which becomes North Arm Road. This road hills of the farmland, Start Ebor 1300 metres. Today you’ll notice more leads through dairy country and there are good particularly in spring downhills as you drop nearly 600m to Dorrigo. The views back to the mountains. After 12km from when the grass is lush, environment changes as you descend through the roundabout follow the road under the Pacific Highway, then turn right to cross a bridge over are superb. Rides through moist forests lining the road. There is a small shop at Tyringham where you can buy food and drink. the Bellinger River. Then turn left and follow North the rainforest sections Street and Yellow Rock Road. As you approach Ride through Ebor along the Waterfall Way for 9km, are always cool with Urunga, turn left into Vernon Crescent. At the end then turn left on the road to Grafton through the of the road take the walkway down to the river ample bird and animal localities of Hernani and Glen Fernaigh. Tyringham and then up the ramp to the highway. Cross the life. is 30km from Ebor and 1km off your route, so if bridge over the river then turn left (don’t cross the you decide to visit the shop you will need to return highway) and follow the road down hill. Turn left the way you came and then turn east along the and cross the railway bridge and follow the road to On one ride we Tyringham Road to Bostobrick. Follow the road the centre of Urunga. encountered two beautiful to Bostobrick and then through North Dorrigo to lyrebirds in the middle Dorrigo. There is a good choice of places to stay Option two: South Arm Road to Urunga 27km. and eat in Dorrigo, and you can visit , Total 62km. This ride includes a one-and-a-half of the road and they just north of town. km climb up Hospital Hill out of Bellingen. Head didn’t move but just southwest out of Bellingen on Church Street then stared at us as we rode Day three: Dorrigo to Urunga - up Bowraville Road. Turn left onto South Arm 58-62km depending on route. Road and follow this road along the north bank of past. “ Start Dorrigo 760 metres. You’ll lose most of your the Kalang River. Turn right onto Short Cut Road There is a you huge can range grow of altitude on the first 14km of today’s ride as you which comes out on the Pacific Highway. Cross the banksias George Hudson, Urunga descend through the rainforest on the Waterfall highway, turn right and ride into Urunga. to attract nectar-eating Way. Take special care on this section as the road There are places to stay and eat in Urunga and birds to your enjoy garden. full sun 7. Banksia Spinulosa is narrow and winding, and you may need to stop connections to rail and bus. Banksias and good drainage. Learning to kayak in Bellingen

16 - Images courtesy of: Hazel Wallace (1, 7, main image), David Henderson (2), Michael Taylor (3, 5), Coffs Coast Marketing (4), Martin Lang (6) 6. Flying-foxes 2. Whale spotting 4. Friendly butterfly

3. Kayaking 5. Playtime 7. Fun on the farm 1. Brush-tailed rock-wallaby

The Way of the Child . . . Discover new places together

There are a lot of of activities for families to enjoy turtles and jumping fish in the water, koalas in the “For many kids, nature along the Waterfall Way. It’s a great way for families trees and eagles in the air. Stop for a swim in the has become alien. So many to explore together; finding out about birds, animals river or find a quiet picnic spot on the bank. are hooked on the techno and plants. Travelling from the ocean to the high Another great place for a family picnic is the tablelands, you can observe mini-worlds in the world these days. There Glade Picnic Area in . It’s rock pools, watch dolphins in the sea, paddle is a need to help awaken just a 1km walk through the rainforest from the along a tranquil river, walk through a shady young people’s sense of visitor centre or you can drive and park close by. rainforest, look for possums, bats and stars at connection and belonging This clearing in the forest has tables, barbeques, night, and find out where milk comes from. to the natural world, to toilets and grassy areas where the children can foster an understanding of Take the opportunity to join one of the holiday play. Brush-turkeys with their red heads and yellow programs that give families a chance to discover wattles are frequent visitors here too. There are a respect and responsibility new places together. lot of other birds living in the rainforest and you for all other living things. can look for them along the Walk with the Birds Coffs Coast has a wealth of beaches to enjoy and boardwalk and the Satinbird Stroll that start from Expanding our senses and it’s also a great place to go out to sea to watch the picnic area. observation skills can the whales in the Solitary Islands Marine Park. develop awareness and Humpback whales migrate up and down the While you can see and hear the birds during a greater appreciation coast between June and November. They travel the day, most of the animals are active at night. north to breed inside the Great Barrier Reef and Explore the rainforest after dark on a guided of nature and oneself. return south with their calves to spend summer in nocturnal walk to look for possums, bats and Learning to read the the Antarctic. Humpback whales can grow to 16 insects that feed at night. You’ll need to bring a concentric rings of nature metres long and weigh up to 45 tonnes but they small torch, walking shoes and warm clothes, and is like dropping a pebble can still launch themselves from the water and book the walk with the NSW National Parks and in a pond, with conscious land with a giant splash. This is called breaching Wildlife Service. awareness and a few and may be done many times in succession. They For a real change of pace you can experience life learned techniques we can come close to the coast here and there are some in the bush - away from television, mobile phones create as few ripples good lookouts from headlands but you’ll have a and computer games - at a wilderness retreat. as possible. better chance of seeing whales from one of the Children and adults can find out more about native boats that offer whale watching tours from Coffs plants and animals, explore bush trails, try bush There are ways to unlock Harbour. tucker and spend the evening under the stars the secrets to learning the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service also telling stories around a camp-fire. language of the forest. runs whale watching from the viewing platform on If you ask your kids where milk comes from, do Nature mirrors back to us Muttonbird Island using powerful viewing scopes they answer, ‘from the fridge’? Perhaps it’s time how we are feeling, if we and binoculars. Join a group, and the Parks staff to take them on a farm stay where they can help are still inside ourselves, can tell you about whales and their behaviour. feed the pig, collect the eggs and milk the cow. we get to see more animals Brush-tailed While whales are a big reason to visit the coast, As well as getting to know the farm animals, it’s a and birds: wallabies rock-wallaby there are some fascinating little creatures to see chance to meet native birds and animals around grooming, birds singing Petrogale penicillata here too. With a life cycle that every child wants the farm. In the Walcha area, the gorge country is a their base line songs - we to know about, butterflies are as beautiful as they wonderful wildlife habitat and you may see brush- get to see nature in a more are interesting. Discover how a caterpillar changes tailed rock-wallabies feeding in the evenings. relaxed way - not always Endangered species. Lives in rocky areas into a chrysalis and then into a butterfly, and enjoy Experiencing the Waterfall Way with children is a in sclerophyll forest. Uses caves and rock walking through the colourful clouds of butterflies hearing bird alarm calls great way to share discoveries and experiences cracks as shelter during the day. Feeds from all over Australia. These butterflies live but experiencing things that will become stories and memories for years during the night on native grasses, roots indoors in a protected environment so you can coming towards us rather to come. and bark. see them whatever the weather. than running away. Nature itself is the greatest teacher There are about 30,000 Brush-tailed Rock- If your family is looking for some active adventure and the earth is the wallabies left in the world today, and on the water, then a canoe trip on the Bellinger probably 75% of those live in the Clarence/ River is a fun way to explore a new environment. real university.” Macleay Gorges along the Waterfall Way. Paddling along the river, you’ll see the world from In 1900, at least 50,000 were shot in a new angle. From the canoe you can watch for Rosemary Yates, Mt Hyland Tenterfield, and in 1902, 37,000 were shot Looking out over Hole Creek/ - Walcha around Armidale. Images courtesy of: Frank Low (1), Hazel Wallace (2, 3, 4, 6, main image), Michael Taylor (5, 7) - 19 Yellowfin Bream 5. Apsley Falls Acanthopagrus australis 1. Pig Face 3. Muttonbird Island Inhabits surf beaches and estuaries in northern NSW. Silver fish with yellow pelvic and anal fins, darker in estuaries. Yellow tail has a black edge. 2. Yarrowyck Grows up to 65cm long and 4. Butterfly secrets 4kg. Peak season in NSW 6. Bush tucker February to June. Popular table fish.

7. Sea Bream The Way of Spirit . . . Traditional stories and sacred places

“See that’s like certain Traditional stories and sacred places are a way the time to sit and appreciate this unusual rock time of the year, you get to connect with the Aboriginal knowledge of this feature and think about what the traditional life region. Our journeys touch on ancient pathways of the local people would have been like. The more types of different and link us to the spirit of the land. Visit the website community would also appreciate it if visitors left fish than other fish, at www.visitwaterfallway.com.au for more the site before 3.00pm. information. you know like the jewfish To visit the Stonewoman site from Tingha, follow might be runnin’ pretty Aboriginal people tell the story of how the the New Valley Road (Ruby Street) south for 700 well middle of winter or Rainbow Serpent created the gorge at Apsley metres before turning right onto Kempton Road. Falls in the Dreamtime. Take a walk to one of the something. Then you Follow Kempton Road for 2.7km before continuing viewing platforms and you may see a rainbow in straight ahead on what becomes Long Gully Road, might get say, sea bream, the mist of the falling water. The Rainbow Serpent a further 2.1km will bring you to the car park they might be around. is said to travel underground from the base of adjacent to Long Creek. You may either drive or the falls to reappear at the mill hole near Walcha walk a further 300 metres south along the road to a on the Apsley River, 20km upstream. The site You see the white yeller pedestrian gate. From here, follow the signs for 750 is marked at Walcha by a mosaic by Gordon metres to the site itself. butterfly all over the Hookey made with the ideas and help of the local place, down on the beaches Aboriginal community. If you want to learn more about Aboriginal life, the Armidale and Regional Cultural Centre and there you see ‘em flyin’ Apsley Falls are in the Oxley Wild Rivers National Keeping Place in Armidale has a well-signed bush everywhere, well that’s Park, just off the , 20km south of tucker walk, and exhibitions of Aboriginal culture Walcha. The Rainbow Serpent mosaic in Walcha is and art. The Centre also runs holiday programs when the big sea bream opposite the end of Legge Street on Derby Street. are around. Then you and study tours. The rock paintings at Mt Yarrowyck Nature The Yarrawarra Aboriginal Cultural Centre at see the whiting and that Reserve, west of Armidale, tell another story. Arrawarra on the coast, north of Coffs Harbour, sort of stuff, you know There is a short walk through the bush to see the runs bush tucker and bush medicine guided paintings that include tracks, circles, short lines they’re comin’ probably tours, arts and crafts, and cultural activities. and dots painted with red ochre on an overhang There is a gallery of Aboriginal art and a bush November. And that’s under some granite boulders. These paintings are tucker café. how they would have several hundreds of years old. One Aboriginal worked, like there was a elder has explained that the paintings are about Near the boat ramp at Arrawarra beach, you can – when those big seasons a ground feeding bird. The toes of the bird tracks see arrangements of stone that were used as a fish are too short to be an emu so they probably start, then they’d come trap by Aboriginal people. The trap would be baited represent the plains turkey or bustard. with shellfish or meat and the fish would swim in on together you know. Mt Yarrowyck is on the Bundarra to Uralla road, a high tide and once the trap was full, the entrance about 1km north of the junction with the road to would be blocked, catching the fish inside. But yeah, all different Armidale. The nature reserve is on the right (north) Further south, at Yarriabini National Park, a signs you gotta watch side of the road. modern sculpture marks the significance of the when different fish is Further north, there is a special area known as area to the and Dunghutti people. comin’ through.” the Tingha Stonewoman Aboriginal Area. This Yarriabini means ‘koala rolling’ and is the traditional place highlights the importance of natural features name for the coastal mountain also known as Tony Perkins, Yarrawarra that occur within the landscape and are associated Yarrahapinni. The sculpture tells the spiritual story with the teachings of Aboriginal lore and song lines. of a koala that was cut up by an enemy. The koala’s We are lucky here in Tingha that the Stonewoman head rolled down the mountain creating a gully on story can, and is, still being told. the southern side. The rest of his body became the three peaks of Yarriabini. The site is a women’s teaching area although the local community have agreed that men may also Yarriabini National Park is east of the Pacific visit this site. The signs tell the story of one of the Highway. Turn east to Scotts Head Road, then lores relating to marriage and what the outcomes south onto Way Way Creek Road which leads to could be if this lore was ignored. If you visit, take The Pines picnic area and the sculpture. Diving off the Coffs Coast

20 - Images courtesy of: Hazel Wallace (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), Leo Dutra (main image) Dangar’s Lagoon - Uralla Tableland

Grass Trees are very slow growing and may live to 600 years. Trunks only appear after many years. Grass Tree Flowering often occurs in Xanthorrhoea glauca spring, particularly after a bushfire. Found in open woodland. One of many grass trees found in Australia, Xanthorrhoea glauca usually develops a black trunk Green Travel . . . Getting to the which may be branched. Long, narrow, green leaves grow from the top of the trunk. Waterfall Way . . . A spear-like spike grows from Ways to do your bit the top of the trunk and small individual white or cream flowers cluster on the spike. Moon in the Getting around: For full information and contact details visit the Waterfall Way website at: www.visitwaterfallway.com.au morning Where you travel and how you travel can make a big difference to the places and the people you visit on holiday. New moon Car: Crisp night By taking a holiday in the country where you live you’re helping to reduce carbon emissions caused by Morning comes international air travel. Pacific Highway. Coffs Harbour is 550km north of Sydney and 427km south of Brisbane. First light New England Highway. Armidale is 535km north of Sydney and 466km south of Brisbane. By using public transport instead of driving you’re also reducing carbon emissions. Purple shadows Waterfall Way from Armidale on the New England Tableland to Coffs Coast. Distant hills Walking, cycling or kayaking for part of your holiday will help too. Sun approaches Warmth spills If you want to make your holiday carbon neutral there are organisations from where you can buy carbon Rose madder offsets. See the Waterfall Way website for details. Air: Black trees Coffs Harbour Regional Airport and Armidale Airport. Peach sky Fresh breeze Where to stay: Moon suspended Train: Choosing environmentally-friendly accommodation is only part of being a green traveller. It’s as much Grass Tree Silver orb about what you do during your stay as it is about recycling water and refuse. From Sydney, trains stop at Macksville, Nambucca Heads, Urunga, Sawtell, Coffs Harbour. Day brightens Night absorbed. Think about your water use and keep your showers short. From Sydney, trains stop at Walcha Road, Uralla, Armidale.

Anne Andrews, Turn off the tap while you’re brushing your teeth. Walcha Bus: If you’re staying in a rural area, your accommodation may be using tank water that relies on rainfall to keep it topped up. Pacific Highway Sydney to Brisbane buses stop at: Macksville, Nambucca Heads, Urunga, Coffs Harbour, Woolgoolga. If you’re staying several nights, hang up your towel after use rather than having it changed every day. This saves power and water with reduced laundry needs. New England Highway Sydney to Brisbane buses stop at: Uralla, Armidale, Guyra. You can also help to save power by turning off electrical devices and lights when you leave your room. Bus service from Coffs Harbour to Bellingen and Urunga three times a day, Monday to Friday, and to Urunga only on Saturdays. Also Bowraville, Macksville, Nambucca Heads, Urunga, Coffs Harbour. Ask about your accommodation’s recycling needs and sort your refuse to help. Bus service from Coffs Harbour to Armidale, stopping at Dorrigo three times a week. Bus Service from Coffs Harbour to Grafton stopping at Korora, Sapphire, Moonee, Emerald Beach, Out and about: Sandy Beach, Woolgoolga, Safety Beach, Mullaway, Arrawarra, Corindi Beach, Red Rock. Think local. By buying locally you’re putting money back into the community you’re visiting. Try local food Buses from Armidale to Guyra, and from Walcha Road to Walcha. and wine, eat at locally-owned cafes and restaurants. Look for locally-made items for souvenirs. Markets are a great way to find locally-made products and meet the people who make them. Join tours led by local operators who know the area well. They can guide you to the best places and tell you the stories that make the place special. Noonday axeman (extracts from) Axe-fall, echo and axe-fall. Noonday silence. Respect the environment. If you’re going walking, follow existing trails to reduce erosion and take your Though I go to the cities, turning my back on these hills, rubbish back with you. ( . . . ) for the talk and dazzle of cities, for the sake of belonging Past the railway stations, looking up through the traffic for months and years at a time to the twentieth century, Follow National Parks guidelines for bush camping and fires. at the smoky halls, dreaming of journeys, of stepping ( . . . ) down from the train at some upland stop to recover the city will never quite hold me. I will be always Don’t feed the native animals as they can develop diseases from human food or may become the crush of dry grass underfoot, the silence of trees. dependant on handouts. coming back here on the up-train, peering, leaning out of the window to see, on far-off ridges, Axe-fall, echo and silence. Dreaming silence. the sky between the trees, and over the racket Though I myself run to the cities, I will forever of the rails to hear the echo and the silence. be coming back here to walk, knee-deep in ferns, up and away from this metropolitan century, Les Murray

22 - Images courtesy of: Hazel and Andrew Wallace visitwaterfallway.com.au - 23 visitwaterfallway.com.au

A new journey, a new story . . .