A Brief Discussion of Principles of Candy Making

U IL LINO I S UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

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2012 REMOTE STORAGE

A BRIEF DISCUSSION OF PRINCIPLES OF CANDY MAKING

LOUISE STANLEY of the Home Economics Department, University of Missouri. Preparedfor Use of Missouri State Board of Agriculture

Issued December, 1911

This bulletin has been prepared with the idea of helping to simplify and rationalize candy making. By teaching a few general principles it ought to be possible for anyone to make candy either with or without the help of the recipe. In going over the numerous recipes to be found at this time in the popular maga- zines the writer has been impressed with the laxness displayed in statements, and if the directions were followed implicitly, only failure could be the result. It is hoped that with the intelligence gained from the study of this bulletin the reader may be able to formulate her own rules, else modify and use with more intelligence those recipes found elsewhere.

Sugar. The basis of practically all our candy is ordinary sugar. Su- crose is its chemical name. We call it cane sugar because for so many years all our sugar was obtained from the sugar cane. The cane sugar is identical in composition with the sugar which is obtained from the sugar beet or the sugar maple. The maple sugar has a different flavor because of the impurities left in it, just as the brown or unrefined sugar differs in taste from that which is fully refined, on account of those impurities which are characteristic of the plant from which the sugar is derived. All the sugars of this group form crystals and the sugar is named according to the size of the crystals, confectioners, pul- verized, or granulated. In this country most of our granulated sugars are made up of crystals of a uniform size. In England we find these crystals varying from the minute ones found in pul- verized sugar to crystals as large as a pea, which are called coffee crystals. The only candy in which we desire our sugar in a crystallized form is rock candy. The manufacturer prepares this by immers. ing a string in a concentrated cane sugar solution, in which case the sugar is deposited upon the string in crystals gradually increasing in size. In making candy in the home we aim to keep our candy from crystallizing (graining we sometimes call it), else aim to obtain very small crystals, crystals too small to be separately felt. Except in the case of a few simple candies made from confectioners' sugar, all candies are cooked. In cooking sugar we may use moist or dry heat. In order to understand thoroughly the principles involved in candy' making, it will be necessary to know the effect of these two forms of heat upon the sugar ordinarily used in candy making, or cane sugar. In order to determine the effect of dry heat upon this sugar the following experiment is rec- ommended.

Brittle Candies.

Take one-half cup sugar and melt over the fire in a sauce pan, stirring constantly to prevent burning. This should melt completely and be left over the fire with constant stirring until the color just changes, but the material is not burned. This can be poured over whole or crushed peanuts to form peanut brittle. Cocoanut or any other nuts may be substituted, or hot water may be added in sufficient quantities to dissolve this melted sugar and the whole kept for flavoring as caramel. It must be remembered in adding any liquid to the hot melted sugar that the temperature of the melted mass is very high and any cold liquid suddenly intro- duced will tend to harden the mass and make it quite difficult to remove. If the melted material is poured out without dilution it should form a hard, clear cake. This melted sugar is the basis of a group of candies called brittles. In these candies the sugar is melted, preferably in a granite pan, flavored and poured, usually over nuts. While melt- ing, a metal spoon must be used to stir the mass, as the temperature reached is sufficiently high to burn a wooden one. If the back of the spoon is used for the stirring the half-melted sugar does not cake in the bowl and cause trouble.

When is the Candy suficiently cooked?

By far the greater number of our candies are prepared by means of the action of moist heat on sugar. They are simply solutions of sugar and water with various forms of flavoring added, boiled until this solution reaches a definite concentration or consistency. This consistency may be determined in various ways, 2 , by (1) the length of time of cooking, (2) the way in which the syrup drops from the spoon, (3) the consistency of the mass it forms when. cooled in cold water. These tests as generally used are most inaccurate. Providing we start with the same proportions of sugar and water, the concentration of our solution must depend upon the amount of evaporation. This is not dependent solely upon the length of time of cooking, but is influenced by S such factors as the amount of surface exposed and the intensity of the heat applied; therefore the first test above is most inaccurate. The tests depending upon the way the syrup drops from the spoon and the consistency of the mass when cooled in water, while more accurate than the above, still vary considerably in the hands of different experimenters, and in the latter case especially are de- r pendent upon the temperature of the water. Far more important than this, however, is the loose way in which these tests are ordinarily stated. Looking over the recipes listed in two columns of a popular magazine it was quite interesting to note the directions for determining when the candy was done. Nine of the candies were practically the same, cream candies, with flavors of different kinds added. From the nine in these two columns the directions were to cook in one case until it clung when dropped into cold water, in two cases to soft ball, in one case to bubble, in three cases until it threaded, and in two cases which were cooked according to time, the one with the larger proportion of water was to be cooked five minutes and the one with the less water, therefore theoretically needing less cooking, was to be cooked for ten minutes. This is a fair example of the usual accuracy of recipes. We need a greater degree of standardization which we can get only by the development of general principles. Each kind of candy is not a law unto itself but is one of a few general groups. In each group the proportions within limits are the same, and each should be cooked to approximately the same concentration. Much the simplest and most accurate method for testing candy or any syrup is to use an ordinary chemical thermometer. If the bulb of the thermometer is immersed in the boiling solution it will indicate the temperature at which that solution boils. Now we know that as the concentration of the sugar in the solution increases, the temperature at which that solution boils is raised. There- fore reading the temperature gives us a definite measure of the concentration of the solution. The advantages of the use of the thermometer are that it is easier, more accurate, and none of the material needs to be lost. Thermometers-Where to get them and how to use them. Regular candy thermometers or an ordinary chemical thermometer can usually be purchased, or ordered for you by any hardware or drug store. These come graduated either in Faren- heit or Centigrade scale. Those graduated to 500 F or 300 C will be found most useful for general household purposes, though the graduations need not extend so high for candy work. In using the thermometer, the bulb must be completely immersed in the boiling solution, but should not touch the bottom of the vessel. The thermometers with milk glass rather than the paper scale are to be preferred. This is a delicate instrument, so should be handled carefully. If held wrong end up there is danger of hav- ing the mercury separate, in which case the thermometer will register inaccurately. The ordinary household tests for candy with the corresponding temperatures are given below: F C Small thread ...... 215 ° 102° Large thread ...... 2170 1030 Pearl ...... 220 ° 105 ° Large pearl ...... 2220 1060 The blow ...... 230 ° 110 ° The feather ...... 232 ° 111 ° Soft ball...... 2380 1130 Hard ball...... 248 ° 120 ° Small crack...... 290 ° 143 ° Crack...... 3160 1550 Caramel...... 3600 1750

Candies made from sugar with addition of water. The obtaining of candy without crystals, or with very small crystals, is a problem of sugar chemistry, and if this subject is thoroughly understood the whole question of candy making is simplified. When we want to make candy which will not crystallize we, in the home, use cane sugar and add vinegar. If enough vinegar is added it will never grain or crystallize, and furthermore, if the usual amount for pull candy is added it will not cream.

Effect of moist heat on sugar. This brings us to a consideration of our second topic or the effect of moist heat on sugar. We find that moist heat splits up cane sugar, forming from it two simpler sugars, glucose and fruc- 4 tose. The relation between these three sugars is that cane sugar with the aid of heat and water splits up into fructose and glucose. Mixtures of equal amounts of glucose and fructose, such as are formed from cane sugar, are called invert sugar. Invert sugar crystallizes with great difficulty and if at all, in very small crystals. It has been found by experiment that if acid is added to the boiling sugar solution it hastens the change from cane into invert sugar. We make use of this principle in the making of cream candies, candies with very small imperceptible crystals, and those candies which contain no crystals at all, as taffys, caramels, etc. The acids ordinarily used in the household are vinegar and cream of tartar. Vinegar is usually used in making taffy because we like the flavor, and also the danger of too much acid is not so great here. The per cent of acid in our vinegars varies so much that we cannot use it with any certainty of getting a definite quan- tity of acid. With cream of tartar it is different. It is a solid and the per cent of acid present is fairly constant. So in all candies where a definite proportion of acid is important, cream of tartar should be used. As the whole point in adding acid is to obtain a certain proportion of invert sugar in your solution, it is possible to omit the acid if you substitute the requisite amount of invert sugar or glucose which behaves in the same way. We do this in those candies to which we add glucose, corn syrup, molasses, honey, and even brown sugar has a certain small per cent of invert sugar left in. This is the plan followed almost entirely by the manufacturer, as in this way he can control his result more accurately, and also because glucose is cheaper than cane sugar. This is perfectly justifiable in case the glucose used is of pure quality, and would be more used in the home if it were possible to get a form of glucose or invert sugar which would not affect the flavor of the product. Cream Candies. In the cream candies we use less acid than in those candies which are not to cream, because we want a certain amount of crystallization. You have all probably made fondant, which was a sticky, gummy mass and refused to cream. This has been caused by the addition of too much acid, so too large a proportion of invert sugar has been formed. In the making of cream candies, therefore, we are concerned with two general series of precaution. First, we want just the right proportion of cane sugar to invert sugar in the candy when it is cooked. This depends upon the amount of acid used, and the length of time for cooking. The (length of time naturally depends upon the amount of water added and the rapidity with which it 5 is cooked. The more water we add the longer time the candy must be cooked in order to evaporate this water, while the more rapidly the solution boils the more quickly the water is given off. Thus we see there is a direct relation between the proportion of acid used, the amount of water, and the rapidity of cooking. On this account we have in the statement of recipes exact amounts of these constituents given, with directions to cook slowly or rapidly, as the case may be. It is simply a question of time during which the acid should act upon the sugar at this temperature. If you know that your candy has cooked too rapidly and the acid has not acted on the sugar sufficiently long, it is a simple problem to add a small amount of water and in this way prolong the cooking time. In the second place, since we are leaving in this solution a definite proportion of cane sugar, we must make use of all means within our control to have this crystallize in the small crystals we so much desire. We know that when sugar solutions are stirred while hot, the crystals tend to become larger. Also that when crystals fall into a concentrated sugar solution, larger crystals tend to aggregate about them. In accordance with this last point we aim to keep all crystals off the sides of the vessel in which the candy is cooked. We sometimes prevent this by boiling candy for a few moments at the beginning with the cover on, as in this way the condensing steam washes down the crystals from the sides of the sauce pan. This retards the evaporation of the water and increases the length of time the candy must be cooked, and so cannot be relied upon except in the first stage of the candy making. By far the simpler process is to wash them down with a danip cloth wrapped around fork, or even with well-moistened fingers. Lastly, the candy should never be stirred or violently agitated while hot and cooling. A rough surface forms points for the adherence of the sugar crystals, therefore directions always read, use a smooth sauce pan. Directionsfor Making Fondant. From the above facts, the rules for making fondant are simplified and the reason, for each step made clear. To five cups of sugar we add one and half cups of water and one-fourth teaspoon- ful of cream tartar. The whole is allowed to cook slowly until soft ball stage (1130 C), keeping all crystals removed from the sides. The solution should always be stirred until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. After that it is better not to stir it unless there is danger of burning, because the stirring causes crystals to form on sides by splashing up of syrup, and as the solution becomes more concentrated the tendency to produce crystallization in the solu- 6 tion proper is increased. The syrup, when the proper temperature has been reached, is poured out, preferably on a marble slab or platter, or may be left to cool in sauce pan, in which case care must be taken that all crystals have been thoroughly removed from the sides of the pan. When cool enough to allow the finger to be held in it, the mixture is ready to be kneaded or stirred. If stirred it is best accomplished by means of a wooden spoon until it creams, when it should be taken up in hands and worked. Much trouble can be avoided by taking up candy soon enough. In case it is beaten while too warm, not only are the crystals apt to be large but it soon becomes too hard because the evaporation is greater at high temperature. If the syrup remains clear, that is, no crystals are formed, it means that too much acid has been used or it has been cooked too slowly. At any rate, too much invert sugar has been formed. If it reaches this stage the only remedy is to add more sugar, no acid, and cook quickly, because the acid is still there to change more sugar. If candy creams but does not harden, do not despair. If set aside it frequently hardens, and the soft variety is the very best for dipping and making patties of various flavors. Some add glycerine in small amounts to fondant, because the glycerine does not evaporate as rapidly as water, therefore the fondant keeps moist longer. Cream or butter may be added to it if a richer product is desired. Candies made from Fondant. Fondant when made in this way can be worked up into a great variety of candies. It should always be kneaded to break up any crystals. It can then be flavored and formed into various shapes. These may be decorated with nuts or candied fruits, or may be rolled in powdered cinnamon, making the well-known cinnamon balls. Chopped nuts may be worked in with the flavoring and the mixture used to fill in the cavity of dates from which the stones have been removed. The fondant may be melted, over hot water always, and dipped out by spoonfuls to form patties or after dinner mints, or various materials such as nuts, and white grapes, may be dipped into the melted fondant and in that way coated. A little experience soon shows just to what degree the fondant should be melted. The softer fondants should be used for this purpose. If too soft, a little standing over hot water causes a slight amount of evaporation, so if the fondant proves to be entirely too soft it may be remedied in this way. If while the candy is being dipped out, the fondant becomes too hard it is usually a good plan to add a few drops of water, being careful always not to add too much. A slight amount of grated cocoanut may 7 , UII UOU OU f be added to the melted fondant, the whole spread in a layer, marked into squares and allowed to cool. Balls of fondant and cocoanut may be dipped into the melted fondant, and lastly, the fondant may be dipped in chocolate. For this purpose, if sweet chocolate is desired the regular coating chocolate may be procured from any confectioner, or the ordinary bitter chocolate used. In using the latter it will be found to stay on more successfully if melted, then beaten until it thickens up slightly. These are merely suggestions as to the possibilities. The kinds of candies with fondant as basis are numberless. All those candies with directions to beat until they cream or harden fall into this same group and the general rules are the same, the only difference being in the kinds of flavoring added. Uncrystallized Candies. These fall into two groups, those which are to be pulled and those which are not. The chief difference between this and previous group lies in the fact that more acid is used, else more invert sugar or glucose added, because in the end our proportion of cane sugar must be small to prevent graining. The temperature to which they are cooked depends upon the product desired. For pull candy it will vary from 1200 C to 1400 C, as we want a candy of the chewy or brittle type. In the unpulled candies they vary in consistency from caramels 1250 C to toffee 1550 C.

Candies with Special Texture. In certain of our candies we aim to give a special texture by the addition of certain materials, such as egg-white, gelatine, or gum arabic. In general these may be said to be cream candies added to above substances.

Conclusions. 1. Candies fall into certain groups, and for these groups the general directions are the same. 2. Dry heat melts sugar, driving off water and forming sub- stance known as caramel. 3. Moist heat splits up cane sugar, forming invert sugar, a mixture of glucose and fructose. Acid facilitates the reaction. 4. The amount of invert sugar formed depends upon the proportion of acid and the length of time it acts. 5. Invert sugar does not crystallize readily, therefore is desired in candies which are not to crystallize or are to crystallize in very small crystals. 6. The size of the crystals is also influenced by stirring while hot or by the entrance of other crystals into concentrated syrup. 8 This book is a preservation facsimile produced for the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign. It is made in compliance with copyright law and produced on acid-free archival 60# book weight paper which meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (permanence of paper).

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