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Changes of Gagye Hair Style Reflected on Gache Prohibition Order in Chosun Dynasty

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Changes of Gagye Hair Style Reflected on Gache Prohibition Order in Chosun Dynasty 06임린(67-76) 2006.7.11 6:46 PM 페이지67 Changes of Gagye Hair Style Reflected on Gache Prohibition Order in Chosun Dynasty Lynn Yim*, Eun-Jung Kim** Instructor, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University* Full-time Instructor, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University** Abstract : This study delves into the Gache Prohibition Order during the Chosun Dynasty and researches the changes of the Gagye style caused by Gache Prohibition Order comparing both the pre-prohibition order and post- prohibition order and analyzing its related remains, old documents, and other researches about the Gache Prohibition order. The Gache Prohibition order during the Chosun Dynasty had contributed to the changes of the Gagye styles such as Sseu-gye, Hwan-gye, and Eoneun hair styles. Dae-su and Eo-yu-mi Gache in Sseu-gye style had been rarely used while Hwa-gwan and Jok-du-ri were often used in the Sseu-gye style. In the Hwan-gye style, Hwan-gye of Geo-du- mi was replaced with wood. Form and bulk in Eoneun hair had been minimized and changed into new types of Gagye styles. The Gache Prohibition order of the Chosun Dynasty had affected the Gagye style in the following ways: First, in the aspect of style, the Gagye style was used to decrease volume. Second, the Practical science of the Chosun Dynasty had affected clothing in terms of actuality, convenience, simplicity, and openness. Third, the Gache Prohibition Order affected the Gagye style as well as the re-understanding of the beauty of clothing. Key Words : Gache Prohibition Order, Gagye style, pre-prohibition order, post-prohibition order I. Introduction to gain a deeper perspective of the fashion in those days. Prohibition orders related to dress and its ornaments The Gache Prohibition Order(加 禁止令) of the have been used for the purpose of class distinction and Chosun Dynasty, which this study researches is the prohibition of extravagance. It seems to have exercised only prohibition order on hair styles during the entire its influence over the fashion of the times and to have Korean history of fashion, and it is the most valuable changed everything at once. The prohibition order has source for research on the Gagye style(加 樣式) of been a valuable material for the study of the dress and the Chosun Dynasty. The Chosun Dynasty’s Gagye its ornaments in those days, although it disrupted the style is supposed to have been affected by various natural transition and current of the fashion. The elements that lay within the prohibition order, and the prohibition orders seen in Korean history in the field of variation of the Gagye style must have had a direct fashion are providing the answers to many questions correlation to this. that were not cleared by simply studying the relics. In- Research completed up to this point has approached depth research on the prohibition orders will allow us very closely the details of the Gache Prohibition Order Corresponding Author: Lynn Yim, 300 Youngbong-dong Buk-gu, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University, Gawngju 500-757, Korea Tel: +82-62-530-1317 E-mail: [email protected] –67– 06임린(67-76) 2006.7.11 6:46 PM 페이지68 International Journal of Human Ecology : Vol. 7, No. 1, June 2006 and the variations and shapes of the Gagye styles, yet January of the 32nd year of King Young-jo. Jok-du-ri they have not explained the changes and development (a small headpiece, 頭里) was recommended instead of the Gagye styles caused by the Gache Prohibition of the Gagye, Hugye(後 ) was proposed as the Order, as well as the reasons that changed the Gagye substitute for Che in December of the 33rd year of Styles. This study will study the details of the Gache King Young-jo because there were some disputes Prohibition Order and discuss it by analyzing record as about the evils of luxury in cases of Jok-du-ri and well as previous research and relics. This study will Hwa-gwan(花冠) in the 33rd year of King Young-jo. also analyze how the Gache Prohibition Order However, the wearing of Gache was permitted seven influenced the Gagye styles by explaining the alteration year later in the 39th year of King Young-jo. During of the Gagye styles before and after the Gache this time the discussion over Gache prohibition during Prohibition Order. the reign of King Young-jo met difficulties. Later during the reign of King Jeong-jo, Gache-sin-geum-jul- mok(加 申禁節目) was announced in August of the II. Theoretical Outline 12th year of King Jeong-jo which clarified Jok-du-ri as substitutes for Gache according to class. After two The Gache Prohibition Order during the Chosun months, in October of the same year, stronger Dynasty was first discussed in Chosun-wang-cho-sil- prohibitions with actual punishments were announced. rok (The true record of the Chosun Dynasty, 朝鮮王朝 The development of the Gache Prohibition Order was 實錄) in the 25th year of King Young-jo(英祖), since arranged from the record of Chosun-wang-cho-sil-rok then the Gache Prohibition Order and restoration of the (The true record of the Chosun Dynasty) as follows: law were repeated till the 16th year of King Jeong- The Gache Prohibition Order during the Chosun jo(正祖). For details, Chegye was prohibited by law in Dynasty was discussed over a great length of time <Table 1> Contents of Gache Prohibition Order time timecontents of discussion contents of discussion King year month 32 1 Prohibit Gache and substitute Jok-du-ri for Gache. 11 Jok-du-ri and Hwa-gwan can be abused according to the decoration. 33 Reform Chegye to Hugye, but it should be attached as court style and lower classes 12 Young-jo wear it as it is. 34 1 Prohibit Chegye and permit Jok-du-ri, but all the styles are strictly forbidden. 38 7 Ask for Chegye prohibition for common people. 39 11 Ordered the restoration of old system of Chegye. Couldn’t order prohibition lacking of substitute for Chebal. But replaced Che by wood 2 in court… 3 4 Hwa-gwan, substitute for Che, can be extravagant according to the decoration. 9 Use Chegye but not too extravagantly. 8 Ordered ladies to remove Che. Prohibit Gache of scholars’ wives and nobility. Jeong-jo Wear Jok-du-ri instead of Che. 12 No decorations (Gold, jade, pearl) on Jok-du-ri are permitted. 10 Wear Eo-yu-mi and Geo-du-mi at the wedding of titled women and common people. Renting Chil-bo-Jok-du-ri at wedding is forbidden. Use original hair in the lower classes, part hair in the court. 20 4 Luxurious trends are bad because the phase of Chegye fraud case is high. –68– 06임린(67-76) 2006.7.11 6:46 PM 페이지69 Changes of Gagye Hair style Reflected on Gache Prohibition Order in Chosun Dynasty starting from the reign of King Young-jo to the reign of 1. Pre-prohibition order King Jeong-jo. It was aimed at not only prohibiting the luxury of the Gache which had been growing in 1) Sseu-gye (Covered hair) popularity time but also to remove the Gagye style Sseu-gye (Covered hair) style of the Gagye during influenced by the Won Dynasty because of toadyism to the Chosun Dynasty includes Dae-su(大首) which was Ming Dynasty. Some old documents show examples. used as a court ceremonial dress. This was worn Young-jo-sil-rok (the true record of King Young-jo, 英 instead of the Queen’s crown which was provided by 1) 祖實錄) tells that the women’s Gogye in the palace the Ming Dynasty. The first Queen’s crown which was (in seoul) was very high reaching equaling one Korean given by the Ming Dynasty was recorded in Goryeo- foot2) (Cheok( ): Unit of length) and that the wives of 尺 sa(高麗史)6) in the 19th year of King Gong-min(恭愍 the noble endeavored to make the Gogye higher than 王) during the Goryeo Dynasty. This crown was called anyone else Nu-baek-geum( ) and Chung-jang- 累百金 Chil-hwi-i-bong-gwan(七 二鳳冠), which was 3) gwan-jeon-seo(靑莊館全書) relays a story about a 13- decorated with Bong-jam (ornamental hairpin year-old daughter-in-law who broke her neck due to engraved with phoenix, 鳳簪) and Yang-bak-bin(兩博 heavy weight of the Che( ). ). Because the Ming Dynasty was in founding However the Gache Prohibition Order met country with uncompleted system, they gave the difficulties with its execution because it did not propose Goryeo Dynasty the first class titled women’s clothing appropriate substitutes for the Gache which hae been as in the Song Dynasty. Later, the Chosun Dynasty shown in the records of the overly decorated Jok-du-ri. was given the Ming Dynasty’s Chil-juk-gwan(七翟冠) 4) The Chegye and Hwa-gwan wrer also a kind of class as the Queen’s crown as the foundation of the Chosun clothing which could be worn by either the lower Dynasty (Kim Yeon-ja, 2002). The Chil-juk-gwan of 5) classes or the less fortunate . The Prohibition Order this time was similar to Chil-hwi-i-bong-gwan in had detailed contents about the Gagye and the Order shape. The Queen’s crown was hard to wear according was repeatedly executed which tells us that it affected to the record of Se-jo-sil-rok(世祖實錄)7). The shape of much change to the Gagye style during the Chosun the Dae-su was changed during the about Im-jin-wae- Dynasty.
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