SAFARI TELEGRAPH SAFARI CONSULTANTS LTD JANUARY 2014

THE MAGIC OF BOTSWANA Explore some of the most untamed lands of Africa FAMILY SAFARIS There’s never been a better time to travel with your children OFF THE BEATEN TRACK From Zambia to Tanzania, a look at the best places to avoid the crowds January 2014

4 FOCUS ON One of Africa’s best 4 safari destinations

6 OUR TRAVELS The Team report back from their travels

8 BOTSWANA Some of the most untamed lands on the continent Contents

10 WHAT’S NEW IN 2014 Plus a look at 2013’s Published by success stories SAFARI CONSULTANTS LTD 10 Africa House, 2 Cornard Mills, Mill Tye, Great Cornard, Suffolk, CO10 0GW 12 FAMILY SAFARIS t: 01787 888590 A look at some of e: [email protected] www.safari-consultants.com the best experiences Design: www.zedpublishing.co.uk for families With thanks to the following for photography: Richard Costin (cover shot), 14 SPECIAL INTEREST Dana Allen, Pete Smart, Geoff Einon, John Wright, Three spectacular but Kathy Richardson/RPS, Bob Brind-Surch. rarely visited regions 8

SOCIAL MEDIA & MARKETING One of the greatest challenges we face as a company is keeping up with the technological and social media revolution. Having re-launched our website a few years ago, this year we finally got to grips with Facebook! We are very grateful for all your support so far. We use our Facebook page to report from Africa as we travel, post wildlife photographs (ours and yours) and share the odd piece of interesting safari news. We would love to keep in touch with as many of you as possible, so if you do have an account with Facebook, please visit our page and ‘like us’. We will be running a ‘photo of the month’ competition and have a few more ideas on how we can keep you in touch with the magic of the African bush. Next year we plan to expand gently into other forms of social media, notably Twitter (@safariuk) and YouTube. We will also be introducing an Email Newsletter – the plan being a brief quarterly round up.

WEBSITE Our website (www.safari-consultants.com) thoughts, so please don’t be shy! remains the hub for information, and through In addition, if you would be prepared to do our Latest News & Blogs, Special Offers and a more official ‘website review’ for us, please Trip Reports pages you can keep up to date let us know. We plan to do this early in 2014 with everything Africa. If you have any ideas or and it will involve approximately half a day’s suggestions on how we can improve the user research on our site, but you will be able to experience on our website, please do let us do it from home. We will be able to offer know. It would be really helpful to hear your something in return for your time and efforts!

2 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Welcome

GETS EVEN BETTER IN 2014!

elcome to our new annual newsletter, widely as ever and you can read about their travels which we hope you enjoy! later in this newsletter and, in more depth, on our In many ways, 2013 has been a very website. We have been visiting new areas, checking W positive year. The economy has shown out old haunts and Bill and Rob even made it back to some green shoots of recovery and here at Safari Zimbabwe after 13 years away from what was such a Consultants we have been busy. Special thanks go to huge part of our business in the ‘90s. all of you who have kept us so and, in turn, supported Our suppliers in Africa have done us and you many families across Africa. We always feel lucky to proud with their outstanding service, and the game- deal with so many dedicated safari travellers and, as viewing just seems to get better and better! More and ever, it has been fun to meet many of you at various more, we are finding that availability can be difficult events throughout the year. We enjoyed record at peak travel times, with the best small properties numbers at our summer luncheon in early August, becoming heavily booked a long time in advance. In the support of which by our current guests is always particular, the Kruger region at Christmas, Masai much appreciated. Mara in September, northern Tanzania in August Safari Consultants has grown this year with and the Lower Zambezi from July to September Roland, Fran and Oliver joining our dedicated team. immediately spring to mind, but many other Roland joined our flights and admin departments destinations are booked a year or so in advance. as well as adding some technological expertise So if you can, plan early! around the office. Fran also came into our admin We look forward to the New Year and would department and is fast becoming our social media take this opportunity to wish everyone a very merry ‘guru’ (more on this opposite), and Ollie is on a festive season and best wishes for a prosperous whirlwind ride having started in sales! They have and happy 2014. all added greatly to our existing team. Bill, Rob, Michele, Mary, Josie, Michele, Mary, Rob and Jane have travelled as Michaela, Jane, Roland, Fran and Ollie

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 3 Zimbabwe

enerally, our consensus was one of pleasant surprise. Sure, the safari camps have not had the investment G over the years to keep up with the Jones’ in neighbouring countries (most are a bit frayed in comparison), but they still offer a genuinely great safari experience. The excellent and dedicated professional safari guides and the wonderful lodge and ZIMBABWE camp staff have always been most welcoming. It was almost as if the only During 2013, Rob and Bill travelled back to Zimbabwe issue was the calendar year, reading to gauge how the safari industry had weathered the 2013 as opposed to 1999. Historically, Zimbabwe has always political storm of the last decade plus. Bill travelled been one of the best safari destinations in to the Upper Zambezi, Victoria Falls, Hwange National Africa and certainly the country has been at the forefront of exceptional guiding. It Park and the Matobo Hills whilst Rob visited the appears that during the first few years of Mana Pools and Matusadona national parks. this century, the standard of professional guides coming through the system did drop quite significantly (although they

4 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Zimbabwe

were still arguably better than most guides in countries like Tanzania) but this was accepted and challenged, and by 2008 the comprehensive exams were refreshed and back to their exceptionally high standards. Internal air travel is still difficult although there are a number of companies offering light aircraft schedules between Victoria Falls and the main safari areas (Mana Pools, Kariba/Matusadona, and Hwange). The road from Victoria Falls to Bulawayo is as good as it has always been. The Eastern Highlands, in the past largely associated with ‘self-drive’ tourism, can also be visited although at this time we would only recommend it is done so with a private guide. In the far south-east, three operations are seemingly doing well, including Singita Pamushana, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, and professional guide Ant Kaschula’s camp and walking safari operation in Gonarezhou National Park (now part of the Greater even if you’re going onto Botswana or populations are pretty healthy. Boat Transfrontier Conservation Area). This Zambia. The Zimbabwe side includes the cruises along the shoreline are the Left: has always been considered a remote ‘promontory’ which extends in front of Matusadona best way to explore the lakeshore and area, and still is today. the falls and arguably affords the best shoreline provide a welcome break from bumping To the south of Bulawayo view, particularly when there is a lot of Clockwise around in a safari vehicle. from top left: (Zimbabwe’s second city, although in water (April to July). The town itself has Hwange elephants; Mana Pools National Park, a decline) lies the Matobo Hills National changed little, and there are a number of Zambezi River, designated World Heritage Site, lies Park. The park is probably more famous good hotels within walking distance of Mana Pools; on the northern border with Zambia Lake Kariba sunset; for its giant granite outcrops and the the Falls, including Ilala Lodge and the Kanga Pan, and below the Kariba Dam in a region burial place of Cecil John Rhodes but famous Victoria Falls Hotel. Within the Mana Pools; referred to as ‘the Lower Zambezi’. The Matobo Hills for aficionados, it contains the highest adjacent Zambezi National Park, which floodplains of the mighty Zambezi River number of breeding pairs of black eagle now extends all the way to the Botswana are covered in particularly attractive in the world, and good populations of border covering the area we used to acacia and mahogany woodlands which both black and white rhinos. The San call ‘The Upper Zambezi’, a number of offers exceptional walking conditions rock-art is also a great attraction. new safari camps are indicative of the and it is possible to approach a lot Hwange National Park is Zimbabwe’s optimism within the country. of species on foot. There are some largest park and lies on the south- The Matusadona National Park lies excellent ‘old-style’ safari camps western border with Botswana. Noted on the southern shores of Lake Kariba, “Historically, operating and they offer a close and for its huge elephant populations, the vast dam created in the 1950’s to Zimbabwe personal wildlife experience. Wild dog, there are also good numbers of sable, provide hydroelectric power. The park has always , elephant, buffalo, eland, , buffalo, giraffe, lion, leopard and extends well beyond the immediate been one of , , hippo and crocs wild dog. Rhino, unfortunately, have shoreline, where most game-viewing the best safari abound and the birding is excellent too taken a beating in the last decade and takes place by vehicle or boat, into the destinations (strangely, giraffe are absent). Away sightings are far more difficult than Matusadona Mountains. The ‘drowned’ in Africa and from the river, a number of permanent they used to be. There are a handful of leadwood trees littering the shoreline certainly the springs provide water for a wide range of very good safari camps, most of which provide impressive silhouettes against species and are particularly productive have wildlife hides overlooking very the setting sun, as well as roosts for country has during the latter part of the dry season. productive waterholes – a great way to many bird species. Rhino tracking has been at the Kanga Pan is of particular note. spend a lazy afternoon. become significantly more difficult forefront of For more information, The Victoria Falls of course speaks than it used to be, but elephant, buffalo, exceptional visit www.safari-consultants.com for itself and is well worth visiting lion, hippo, impala and waterbuck guiding.” or call 01787 888590

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 5 Our Travels

The Safari Consultants team has been busy over the last year visiting new areas and checking out old haunts, to ensure we’re offering customers the very best experiences…

“In January I started the year with a full- on educational safari to Kenya. I visited 23 different camps and lodges, producing many pages of detailed notes, and always alert for particular highlights that would help in conveying somewhere to clients. Understanding the location of camps at first-hand was particularly useful. I did manage a few days rest along the way: Offbeat provided some excellent birding in “In September I took my first trip to Kenya, an unusually verdant Meru Camp; Sosian exploring Laikipia and the Masai Mara, were amazing hosts, and their horses before travelling to the coast for a few days got me close to elephants and provided a around Mombasa. This was not only my first thrilling airstrip gallop; I only had time trip to Kenya, but my first experience of for one activity at Laikipia Wilderness, but “During the year I travelled to Zimbabwe Africa, and the journey holds many amazing that was an action-packed morning walk and the KwaZulu/Natal region of South memories. Seeing such large numbers complete with leopard sighting! Africa. It was wonderful to get back to of wild animals was something special, After a hot summer at home, the chance Zimbabwe after such an extended break considering that previously I had only to ride with the wildebeest migration and I was quite impressed with the state encountered these creatures as guests in my with Safaris Unlimited excited me. Tony of the safari industry and the general living room (usually carefully chaperoned Church pioneered the first horseback infrastructure (the main roads in particular by the ubiquitous David Attenborough!). safari back in the’70s and today his son were in good condition and void of traffic). The wildlife highlight of my travels this year Gordie, and his fiancée, Felicia, provide I did not travel at the best time of the year comes from my visit to Kenya, when I felt all the normal finishing touches in for game-viewing, but my visit to Hwange the roaring of a large male lion at very close camp and just a bit more. Against black in particular was very rewarding with range. My favourite camp was Kicheche threatening backdrops and an amount sightings of wild dog, lion, leopard, sable, Laikipia, chosen primarily because of unseasonal rain, we saddled up every giraffe, buffalo, amongst the odd thousand of the people there. morning and wound our way through or two elephants. It was lovely to get into Before I knew it, in October I found myself four different Mara conservancies seeing the various waterhole hides and take time in neighbouring Tanzania, where I travelled plenty of wildebeest and many topi out to view the animals as they came to the Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara with wonderfully cute calves. down to drink. Aside from the up-close and the Serengeti. The atmosphere of the For the experienced rider, this is and personal experience, you do get some early morning journey into the crater, definitely a trip I would recommend.” amazing photo opportunities too. through misty Masai villages, was very In KwaZulu, I spent time up in the memorable, as were the views of the giant iSimangaliso Wetland Park (formerly the caldera. In fact, while proving excellent for Greater St Lucia), another World Heritage game viewing, Tanzania was perhaps most site. Although not really a big game striking for its interesting geography. destination, the birdlife is superb and a few Apart from the crater, I was treated to an days spent in the region, after the ‘game aerial sighting of Kilimanjaro, and also ran experience’, is well worth it. It’s also worth my fingers through a hot-spring in Manyara remembering the lovely beaches along National Park. My ‘top tip’ for travellers this stretch of coastline, particularly if is to take with you an open mind and travelling during the winter months a sense of humour. “ when the Cape is not so good.”

6 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Our Travels

“We often talk about the diversity of Africa “For me, 2013 has seen a focus on some and my travels this year showcase this core wildlife regions in Tanzania, Zambia brilliantly. First stop in March was South and Zimbabwe. In February I travelled to Africa, combining the cultural heritage of Selous and Ruaha (southern Tanzania), the Zulu Kingdom with the Greater Kruger with the specific intent of judging the safari area. Both areas offered first class game experience during their green season, viewing, with the added bonus of vast as well as updating on the safari camps untamed beaches in KwaZulu Natal. we use. It was an interesting trip and my July finally saw me make it to Madagascar conclusion, as expected, was that whilst and it was my highlight of the year. It “Due to a number of circumstances I only the green season is an option to consider, can be a maddening destination as the managed one trip to Africa during the first half especially for experienced travellers and infrastructure is so unreliable and plans of this year but I will be researching a number birders, the dry season is always going to frequently change at the last minute of hotels on Mauritius as our newsletter goes to be much better for game-viewing. but, for me, the pros considerably print. Please see my trip report on our website. In June, I spent a week in the South outweigh the cons. The evident French The beginning of my trip to Kenya included Luangwa, Zambia’s premier game park influence and the vibrant chaos of taking four travel agents on a five night safari and a destination which is always such ‘Tana’ (Antananarivo) appeals to my to hopefully enthuse and educate them on two a pleasure to visit. The South Luangwa inner Francophile, but once you leave key regions. We spent a couple of nights in the really is first class, stunningly beautiful the capital, the landscapes are breath Ol Pejeta Conservancy followed by three in the along the Luangwa River and, even taking and I felt privileged to see so many Masai Mara. I really enjoyed being in Ol Pejeta in early June (the beginning of the endemic species. Being used as a climbing again. The game-viewing was fantastic and season), the game-viewing and walking frame by rescued lemurs, shivering at we were rather spoilt with a wild dog sighting was superb. Highlights were watching the plaintive call of Madagascar’s largest on our first afternoon. The morning walk was wild dogs along the Kapamba River, a lemur, the Indri, and walking at night in equally productive and we encountered buffalo, dawn micro-light flight from Tafika, the pouring rain looking for chameleons , hyaena, zebra, giraffe and elephants. watching hunting buffalo at night were all exhilarating experiences. But Having dropped the agents back at the airport, from Kaingo, and spending time on two nothing can beat (and I’m not sure ever I spent a night in Nairobi National Park at the excellent walking safaris – Luangwa Bush will beat!) sea-kayaking in the Baie relatively new Emakoko Lodge, a wonderful Camping with Robin Pope Safaris, and d’Angolins and being only twenty metres property that I would highly recommend. I then the Chikoko Trails with Remote Africa. away from breaching humpback whales! returned to the Masai Mara for a more in-depth My experiences totally re-affirmed how My final trip was a more purist wildlife educational. Travelling from the south-east of special the South Luangwa is! experience as I headed to Tanzania in the reserve bordering Tanzania, I worked my way In November I re-visited Zimbabwe early October. Lake Manyara and the up to the north-west stopping at various camps for the first time in 13 years and was Ngorongoro Crater were well worth the en route. I fell in love with the Mara at this time pleasantly surprised by the quality of visit but the game viewing on the northern of year - the plains were teeming with antelope, the safari operations in Mana Pools and plains of the Serengeti was spectacular; mostly tending to their young, and the cats did Matusadona. Some camps/people are proud male lions, cheetah with cubs, not disappoint either. A particular highlight for somewhat ‘caught in time’ but after what breeding herds of elephants and copious me was a pride of ostrich which included mom, they have been through during the last amounts of plains game – the Serengeti dad and at least 30 teenagers, a prominent sign 13 years, who could blame them! I loved easily lived up to its reputation of being of attentive parents. What really made these being back and I think Zimbabwe’s safari one of Africa’s top wildlife destinations.” game-viewing experiences even more special was industry is ready and raring to go.” the lack of other tourists and at most sightings, particularly on the conservancies, we were the only vehicle present (as rare as that sighting of that very large number of ostrich). We are often asked what the best time is to visit Kenya for game-viewing? Of course travelling when the wildebeest herds are resident is superb but I would highly recommend December to March too. The absent migration herds are barely missed from the resident profusion of the plains game (zebras, impala, giraffe, Topi, Thompsons gazelle etc.), there are fewer tourists, and most of the properties offer better value for money too.”

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 7 Botswana

Rob - CENTRAL KALAHARI “The first time I visited the Central Kalahari, I travelled at the wrong time of year (unusually, the dry season) and stayed outside the park. Consequently, I didn’t fully ‘get it’. More recently I travelled during the rainy season (best time), staying in the heart of the park, and it was magical. There is something about the Kalahari – the endless horizons, starry skies and silent nights – that gets to your soul. And when you have your best ever sighting of a caracal, as I did near Deception Valley, BOTSWANA you will always have a soft spot for the place!”

The wilderness and wildlife areas of Botswana are Michele - OKAVANGO DELTA some of the most expansive and untamed lands “It is the variety of activities available which makes the Okavango so special to in Africa. The team share their experiences. me. A serene mokoro journey, with only morning bird song to break the silence as you slice through the motionless crystal-clear water. A dramatic game drive as you stumble upon a pack of wild dogs on a kill and watch in anticipation as the hyaenas hone in to steal the prize. A lazy afternoon boat

8 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Botswana

cruise, with the chance to throw a line on foot in the company of the local Jane - MASHATU into the water, cold beer in hand as bushmen or by quad bike. A glimpse “After ten years of traditional safaris, the sun dips below the horizon, the of a shy brown hyaena is thrilling and Main image: my first trail ride was with Limpopo Okavango aerial silence of the moment only broken the meerkats are enchanting but, for Horse Safaris through Mashatu, Above left with crashing and sloshing as a herd me, it’s all about the never-ending to right: endearing me to the area. The thrill of of elephants cross a channel ahead. landscapes.” Mokoro excursion, long canters and jumping small thorn Okavango Delta; Exploring this wilderness on foot, Makgadikgadi bushes was exhilarating. I remember soaking up the beauty whilst feeling Bill - THE LINYANTI/ Pans; Elephant watching giraffe and impala as we diminutive as you approach a tower of KWANDO RIVER SYSTEM game drive in cantered along when all of a sudden Linyanti giraffe.” “I remember travelling here in the we were joined by two black and late ‘80s when Selinda Camp was just white ‘stripy horses’, attracted by our Mary - MAKGADIKGADI three tents in the middle of nowhere hoof beats. They stayed with us for “From May to November, the and the nearest camp was five hours several minutes before peeling off and austere dry season landscape of the drive away - at best. Fortunately, the disappearing into the bush. Wildlife Makgadikgadi Pans enraptures me as it game concentrations have not changed being unaware of your presence or evokes a sense of mysticism, romance - predators are found in good numbers choosing to come to you is my safari and serenity. Endless white vistas - but nothing beats the thrill of being ‘icing on the cake’!” merging into blue skies, occasionally in the middle of 50 plus elephants or on For more information, broken by a cluster of palm trees, easily foot amongst a 400 strong buffalo herd. visit www.safari-consultants.com explored in game viewing vehicles, Still wild, albeit not as remote.” or call 01787 888590

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 9 What’s new in 2014

LOOKING OUT FOR WHAT’S

Mara Plains and last year, is a little more down to Mahali Mzuri, Kenya earth and located within the Reserve. After an extensive period of building, Mahali Mzuri is Sir Richard two top-quality lodges opened Branson’s new camp, located during the year in Kenya’s Masai within the exclusive Olare Motorogi Mara, bringing much-needed new Conservancy. The lodge has a levels of sophistication to the area. wonderful location and the 12 Mara Plains, part of the Great Plains modern suites with Branson style Conservation group (along with are sure to attract a new travelling Selinda, Zarafu, Duba Plains and public to the region. Ol Donyo) owned by wildlife film Neither is cheap, but they do makers Dereck and Beverly Joubert, deliver much needed top quality is located on the ‘confluence’ of the to the region. Olare Motorogi and Mara North conservancies and the National Reserve, and is the only camp Back to nature capable of offering game-viewing In contrast to the ‘sophisticated in all three. Accommodating just developments’ in the Mara, two 14 guests, the lodge retains a safari new ‘back to nature’ walking safari atmosphere whilst delivering a options have opened up in the demanding five star experience. Its Ruaha (Tanzania) and the Timbavati sister camp, Mara Toto, which opened (), as well as a new safari

Kicheche Laikipia Selous Impala Our 2013 in the Ol Pejeta overlooking the Conservancy in Rufiji River in success central Kenya – Tanzania’s Selous stories! we’ve known managers Game Reserve – Andy and Sonja Webb for a genuinely good value We’d like to think nearly 30 years and they’re property in a great game- that our knowledge still so enthusiastic about viewing area. It’s not lavish, allows us to place our producing a wonderful but key qualities like having guests at properties client experience. only 4 guests per vehicle best suited to their Savanna Tented give it a big ‘thumbs up’. Lodge in the Old Mondoro in requirements and Sabi Sands we’re really delighted the Lower Zambezi Savanna Tented Footsteps through National Park, when the clients Lodge in the the Delta in Zambia – consistently agree! Some of those Sabi Sands – a great Botswana’s good, year after year, properties which have property, well run Okavango – a great and although it does come received consistently with excellent guides bush experience at a price, if you want to good reports over and a lovely homely exploring the fringe stay, do book two years Rufiji River, the year include: atmosphere. of the delta on foot. in advance! Selous’

10 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 What’s new in 2014

operation and a canoeing experience concession to operate walking and in the Kafue (Zambia). canoeing safaris along the Kafue River. Kichaka Expeditions, owned by guide Andrew (Moli) Molinaro and his partner Noelle Herzog, launched Call of the Kalahari their walking trails programme New to the Kgalagadi Trans- within Ruaha National Park. Frontier Park are the two small lodge Operating out of a comfortable base developments on the Botswana side camp, they will move to more remote of the Nossob River – Ta Shebube areas with lightweight fly-camps Rooiputs near Twee Rivieren in the and explore the wilderness on foot. south, and Ta Shebube Polentswa Each safari is private so you’re able to in the extreme north of the park. walk as much or as little as you like. Both are accessible by self drive car Very well priced, even for just two from South Africa and offer a proper travelling. lodge experience, as opposed to the To bring a bit of ‘old-style self drive safari options on the South authenticity’ to the South African African side, of this amazing area. safari industry, Tanda Tula in the have just launched their ‘Field Camp’. This is Safari at Sea a lightweight mobile camp which And perfect for the sea loving, will be used solely for walking safaris try a dhow safari from Ibo Island and is booked as a complete unit. in northern travelling Accommodation for up to eight through the Quirimbas Archipelago. guests so perfect for a small group, The safaris offer a wonderful chance but expensive if there are fewer to explore the uninhabited islands participants. and more remote fishing villages of In the Kafue (Zambia), Jeffrey and the region with snorkelling, kayaking McKeith Safaris have launched their and diving also available. The safaris Musekese Camp and series of mobile are available either privately (for safaris through the region, whilst complete flexibility) or on a scheduled Mawimbi Adventures have got the departure basis.

Chikoko Trails in Lavender Manor Asha Cottage the South Luangwa in Hermanus, South National Park, Africa – it is not about Zambia – one of the few the accommodation but genuine bush experiences wonderful old-school available in Africa today hospitality from Kobus Crocodile Camp, with some great guides and Isabel. Simplicity Chikoko Trails and complete exclusivity. which works brilliantly. Etendeka Asha Cottage at the highest level whilst Mountain Camp in the Diani coast, maintaining a personal and in Damaraland, Kenya – a small, relaxed atmosphere. Namibia – we were a very personalised, guest little concerned when house run by John and Waterberry Dennis Liebenberg Dominique. Just delightfully Lodge on the Upper went into partnership simple hospitality. Zambezi near with a larger company Victoria Falls, Zambia a few years ago but this La Residence – beautiful setting, lovely wilderness experience in Franschhoek, staff, and generally a very La Residence just seems to get better in Franschhoek, Cape Town – good value property and better. Cape Town consistently performing performing above its remit.

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 11 Family Safaris

SAFARIS Visiting Africa with your children could be one of the most interesting, fun and educational holidays you ever take as a family

12 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Family Safaris

013 has been a very successful year for family safaris. The industry in Africa is as ready 2 to host families as it has ever been. In this modern era where computer games and social media can easily dominate our children’s free time, it can be a real breath of fresh air to be sitting in the African bush, watching your kids soak up the ebb and flow of the natural world. In addition to the fascination of the animals themselves, children get to learn so much about how the environment works as well as being exposed to traditional cultures. Being on safari as a family can also provide wonderful shared memories and create that quality time that can be hard to find in busy, everyday life. SOSIAN, LAIKIPIA REGION, KENYA Kerry and James and their superb In terms of accommodation, there - a perfect family retreat in the heart Samburu guides. The experience is Left: Children is a wide range of ‘family options’ on bushwalk of the Laikipia wilderness. The key not just about the animals you see, available. In many camps, traditional Clockwise here is the relaxed atmosphere, but also about the scenery, the safari tents have been enlarged and from top left: friendly hosting and wide range of culture, the night skies and honing Jembisa kids modified to cater for families with safari, Waterberg activities. Game drives (by day and your bush craft skills. younger children, either with one region, South night), walks and horse-riding are large bedroom (with extra beds) or Africa; Fisherboy complemented with lion tracking, YOUNG EXPLORERS, OKAVANGO in the Laikipia with adjoining sleeping areas. region, Kenya; river swimming, tennis, fly-camping, DELTA, BOTSWANA – is a wonderful However, for families who enjoy total rhino feeding. fishing, playing cricket on the lawn, opportunity for families with children exclusivity it is also possible to book jumping off waterfalls etc. Family fun 6 years and older! Guided by Paul camps or lodges exclusively (especially in the heart of Africa. Molesang who has specialised in larger family groups) or, in an family safaris for a number of years, increasing number of areas, choose MORUKURU OWNER’S HOUSE, and staying at the delightful, but quite private safari houses. MADIKWE GAME RESERVE, SOUTH adventurous Footsteps Camp, Young As with all our holidays, individual AFRICA – if you are looking for a Explorers is a completely exclusive “In this requirements and preferences are combination of fantastic, malaria- safari program that can be tailored to modern crucial when it comes to our free, big game-viewing and beautiful suit each family. It combines era where recommendations. However, here are accommodation with first class traditional game-viewing in the computer a few ideas which we think really work games and hosting, then South Africa is likely to fantastic Okavango Delta with for families. social media provide the most sophisticated specialist children’s activities with the can easily options, and the Morukuru family of prime focus being on entertaining and MARA BUSH HOUSES, MASAI dominate our houses is an example of where you will educating the children. MARA, KENYA – combine the children’s free feel totally spoilt! incredible game-viewing of the Masai time, it can be There are so many different Mara and the culture of the Maasai a real breath of KARISIA SAFARIS, LAIKIPIA considerations for any family people with a relaxed and exclusive fresh air to be REGION, KENYA – for the more embarking on a safari holiday, and haven to retreat to between activities. sitting in the adventurous family, with slightly what is right for one family may not Mara and Acacia Houses have shared African bush, older children, Karisia offer the be suitable for another. Please do not use of a lovely swimming pool watching your chance to really escape the modern hesitate to contact us for much more overlooking a waterhole and, in kids soak up world and immerse yourselves in an specific information on what might addition to fantastic game drives, you the ebb and African family walking adventure you suit you and your family. can undertake walking safaris and flow of the will never forget. Walks can last any Visit www.safari-consultants.com visit local schools and villages. natural world” number of days, hosted by owners or call 01787 888590

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 13 Special Interest

Hoanib, Hoarasib and Hartmann valleys in the company of a guide who can introduce you to Himba settlements, seek out the desert wildlife and keep you on the correct sandy tracks! Nights are spent camping in the spectacular wilderness, a long way from anywhere! Jeff and Hennie commented recently after their first trip to Namibia: “the camping segment proved to be the highlight of the trip. We saw way more wildlife than we expected, and OFF THE got as close to the land and culture as I BEATEN TRACK think it’s possible to get” Some of Africa’s most amazing Safaris opening a permanent camp Above: Namibian game-viewing regions can get there. Bill travelled to Liuwa in the late wilderness; Mahale Mountains, western Tanzania a little busy with tourists at times. 1990s and this year experienced safari Mahale – where tumbling forests fall off It is inevitable, but other regions are travellers John and Renate commented Chimpanzee mountain sides onto the white sandy Below: barely known, and certainly ignored on their visit in late May as follows: beaches of Lake Tanganyika. The Hide view by the large tour operators. “Liuwa Plain - This was simply Opposite page: jungles are home to a variety of We don’t recommend somewhere fantastic and as enjoyable as any camp/ Walking on primates, including chimpanzees, and simply because no-one goes there, location we have visited. It should be Namibia’s Mahale is arguably the best place Skeleton Coast; but here are three places which on any sophisticated safari-goer’s list” Walking safari in (along with Gombe Stream to the are spectacular but rarely visited. Zambia; Watching north) to view these close cousins of chimps in the Kaokoland, Namibia – the far north- forests of Uganda ours. The lake is stunningly clear and Liuwa Plains in Western Zambia west of Namibia has long been an you can watch hippos 20 feet beneath is a vast area of open grassland, home adventurous destination. To explore it your boat. Sometimes you don’t even to Africa’s second largest wildebeest correctly, you need an experienced need to leave camp to spend time with migration and an increasing amount guide, four-wheel drive vehicle and a the chimps, as David and Pamela of wildlife including hyaena, cheetah, mobile camp, but you can explore discovered in October: wild dogs and lion. Robin Pope Safaris pockets by flying into one of the few “On the second day two chimps operate a limited number of set luxury lodges. While these luxury decided to visit the camp just before departure safaris in November and lodges will work for travellers with we were about to go out into the forest. May/June, the best times to visit, but limited time, the greatest adventure is They had come to eat some mangoes there is now talk of Norman Carr to drive the remote and rugged which were just becoming ripe.”

CAPTURING THE MOMENT You may be aware that we arrange enhance the chance of taking some photographic workshops in Africa for excellent wildlife pictures. There are a number of photographers including specially kitted out photoboats Pete Smart, John Wright, Richard operating on the Chobe River in Costin, and Bob Brind-Surch. Over Botswana, and many styles of hides the years, these small group tours in the Luangwa Valley, Hwange, have proved a popular way for Mashatu and Chobe which offer enthusiasts to improve photographic excellent opportunities to techniques. But you don’t need to go photograph from a variety of angles on a scheduled group workshop to such as an ant’s view of an elephant get good wildlife shots and there are or a hippo’s view of a carmine a number of camps and operations in bee-eater. Some properties will Africa which have the facilities to also offer tuition.

14 I Safari Telegraph I January 2014 Special Interest

ON FOOT IN AFRICA “Time seemed to stand still. All was As with Rob’s experience, we have quiet except for some hippo’s snorting always been very aware that for many in the distance, and an irritating fly safari travellers, the ability to get out decided this was a good time to try and of a vehicle and explore the African glean some moisture from my face. But bush on foot is a highly rewarding I wasn’t sure I was allowed to move! experience, whether for short, gentle It was mid-morning in Zambia’s walks, or for more adventurous multi- South Luangwa National Park, and day trails. Not only do you tend to we had been tracking the King of the learn more about the subtleties and Beasts for a couple of hours now. detail of the eco-system, but there Along the way we had watched white- is also a feeling of exhilaration from fronted bee-eaters come and go from being ‘at ground level’ on Africa’s great their cliff face homes, disturbed a stage. A further attraction of the more lonesome spotted hyaena and serious walking safaris is that they watched a herd of around 200 buffalo invariably operate from remote bush stampede away through the bush. We camps or mobile fly-camps, in both had stopped for a tea break and been cases offering an authentic and treated to a wonderful sighting of exclusive wilderness experience. elephants crossing the wide Luangwa It is impossible to talk about walking River just a few hundred metres away. safaris without being immediately By any stretch a fantastic morning drawn to one of our favourite safari in the bush already, but our real destinations, Zambia, arguably the “It is learning about the specially adapted quarry lay ahead – somewhere, ‘home’ of walking safaris. Walking is impossible animals and sleeping out under the and we were not sure how close. engrained in the safari culture there and to talk about great southern skies. In the jungles of After what seemed like an age, the South Luangwa in particular offers walking safaris Uganda, Tanzania and Rwanda, you can our guide signalled that we could marvellous country to view on foot. without being track primates and search for endemic move forward and we relaxed a little Many other incredible options immediately birds in the forest canopy, while in drawn to as we entered a more open area. to ‘get out on foot’ exist however. Botswana’s Kalahari you can walk with one of our Some guinea fowl starting ‘chirring’ In Kenya, you can explore the rugged local San bushmen to discover ancient favourite safari noisily off to our right, and our guide wilderness for days on end, hosted destinations, cultures, or get ‘up close and personal’ instantly tensed, and then pointed and guided by wonderful Maasai or Zambia, with endearing meerkat families. slowly. Sitting on the side of a Samburu guides who can introduce arguably Whatever your fitness level and termite mound, watching us with you to all aspects of their ‘back garden’. the ‘home’ interests, there are opportunities nonchalant grace, was a majestic In Namibia, you can trek through of walking to explore Africa on foot and enjoy male lion….…” harsh but stunning desert landscapes, safaris.” a different perspective.

January 2014 I www.safari-consultants.com I 15 hino and elephant poaching On the positive side, wild dog have unfortunately continued sightings through Botswana, Zambia, seemingly unabated throughout Zimbabwe, Tanzania, South Africa and Kenya R 2013 although we were heartened are definitely on the rise and it’s now much to hear that the Tanzania Government easier to find these elusive predators. launched a massive anti-poaching campaign There are interesting times ahead in in September using the army. No doubt South Africa. Rattray Reserves, owners of there have been significant losses to the the world-famous safari lodge MalaMala, lost elephant populations in the Selous, Mikumi a land claim by the local N’wandlamharhi and Ruaha but the Brigadier General in Community. They have managed, however, charge has ruffled a few political feathers by to secure a long-term management contract implicating publically at least four serving for its two lodges on the 13000 hectare politicians. Hopefully his strong armed property in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve. tactics won’t see him demoted to private! Cybele Forest Lodge, another bastion of NOTES In early December, Botswana is hosting an South African tourism, was not so lucky and, emergency summit on the illegal ivory trade despite significant negotiations with both AS USUAL, WE WILL BE EXHIBITING AT: for all Heads of Government of the countries Government and the new stakeholders, has in which elephants are found. Penalties for been forced to close its doors. DESTINATIONS (London, 06-09 Feb) ivory trading, law enforcement and public During this season of goodwill, it’s worth THE SUFFOLK SHOW awareness are on the agenda. A recent remembering some of the charities we work (Ipswich, 28 and 29 May) report has exposed a number of traders with in Africa including: Loldia School Fund, THE BIRD FAIR who ‘openly’ trade ivory and rhino horn South Luangwa Conservation Society, the (Rutland Water near Oakham, in Maputo markets. We wonder how much Koiyaki Guiding School and the Microloan 15-17 August). If you are attending, please do Presidents Zuma (South Africa) and Guebuza Foundation (to whom we make our call in for a chat. We’ll be (Mozambican) are going to contribute to ‘Christmas card’ donation). There are links delighted to see you. the discussion. from our website.

SAFARI CONSULTANTS LIMITED Africa House, 2 Cornard Mills, Mill Tye, Great Cornard, Suffolk, CO10 0GW tel: 01787 888590 email: [email protected] web: www.safari-consultants.com