Heritage Guide

Rochford District Council Welcome to Rochford

Whispering Post Rochford Contents

Introduction ...... 4

Ashingdon ...... 7

Barling Magna and Little Wakering ...... 9

Canewdon ...... 11

Foulness Island ...... 13

Great Wakering ...... 16

Hawkwell ...... 18

Hockley ...... 21

Hullbridge ...... 23

Paglesham ...... 25

Rayleigh ...... 27

Rawreth ...... 31

Rochford ...... 33

Stambridge ...... 38

Sutton ...... 41

3 Introduction

The District was first called Surrounded on three sides by Rochford Hundred in Norman water (sea and river), nautical times and stretched from the pursuits abounded. The water River Crouch in the north to the was excellent for the production River Thames in the south. of oysters (a staple diet of the (The term Hundred is an ancient poor) and smuggling contraband, administrative division of a county which was easily hidden from the originally thought to contain a customs men in the creeks and hundred families). Covering 65 inlets. Boat building was a square miles it once included thriving industry as well. both Southend and Leigh and Advantage was also taken of the had 19 districts. Various changes rich London clay soil and many took place in the 20th Century local brickworks transported the and it now has 14 parishes, each bricks to London by Thames Barge. with its own distinct history and Inland, agriculture was prominent. character. Compare the area of corn for the mills was grown in the map by Chapman & Andre in many fields and horses were 1777 to one of today. extensively used to help cultivate the crops.

Sailing on the River Crouch

4 In early days much of the area The District is now split in to 13 was covered by forest and parish councils and one town woodland and included parks for council as outlined below: the benefit of Royal pastimes. Ashingdon – best known for the Much of the woodland was felled battle in 1016. for houses, fuel and boat building and in the clearings animals Barling Magna – still retains its grazed and small communities rural charm including the 11th existed. Little changed for century church at Little Wakering centuries until the railway arrived once visited by King George III in in 1889. From this date 1769. landowners started to sell their Canewdon – on the south bank estates and property building of the River Crouch. Ancient spread to all areas and settlement mentioned in the population levels increased. Domesday Book.

5 Foulness Island – best known parish church, 18th century Dutch for its wildlife and association cottage, windmill, Martyr’s with the Ministry of Defence. Memorial and the Mount (site of the castle). Origin of the Great Wakering – mentioned in Whispering Court. the Domesday Book and known for its brickworks. Now mainly Rochford – the chief town of the residential. Hundred. The centre of trade for Hawkwell – has a variety of centuries best known for its public open spaces as well as a associations with Henry VIII and 14th Century church with a 15th Anne Boleyn. Home of the century timber belfry. Peculiar People.

Hockley – well known to many Rawreth – mainly agricultural who enjoy a stroll in Hockley with many moated farmhouses. Woods but don’t forget Plumberow Mount, undiscovered Stambridge – also mentioned in by many. the Domesday Book, the Tidal Mill was built over 500 years ago. Hullbridge – another riverside John Harriott, who founded the village once part of the pilgrim Thames Police Force in the 18th route to Canterbury before the century, was also a resident. bridge was destroyed long ago. Sutton – once a fishing village Paglesham – part of the Roach with its own market fair in the Valley Conservation Area. Was 11th century. well known for smuggling as well as a reputation for oyster Mike Davies production. (Rayleigh Through the Looking Glass) Rayleigh – historic market town with a wealth of history and character. Buildings and sites of interest include a 14th century

6 Ashingdon

The Battle of Ashingdon was fought on the low ground between Ashingdon Hill and Canewdon Hill on October 18th 1016. It resulted in a decisive victory for The Danes led by Canute, who overcame the English army led by King Edmund II (‘Ironside‘). This battle concluded the Danish reconquest of England, and most of the English nobility was cut down in the very bloody battle, which involved an element of treachery. pretended to fall back, but then In the morning of the battle reformed to beat the English. One Ironside attacked Canute of the English generals, Eadric of head-on, rushing down the hill to Murcia, had remained on the hill engage in battle. The Danes with his men, he did not assist Ironside, but later joined Canute in completing his rout of the English force.

This important victory for Canute resulted in an agreement to divide the country between himself and Ironside. The death of Ironside shortly afterward gave Canute the Crown of England. St Andrews St Andrews Church Ashingdon Church, overlooking the battle

7 site, was built by Canute as a Neil Pemberton-Billing owned the tribute to the many who died in airfield. He later formed a this awful but significant company called Supermarine encounter. which employed R J Mitchell the designer of the Spitfire. It is believed that South Fambridge, an area in the north In a field to the north of of Ashingdon, was the site of the Canewdon Road in Ashingdon is first air-field in Britain. A a small memorial to the crew of memorial was un-veiled on the an American B26 aircraft which village green to the south of the crashed on 24 September 1944. village, on 20th February 2009 – the 100th anniversary of the date The aircraft was flying from when the airfield was first France to its home base at Matching Green, and came down mentioned in the press. The in bad weather killing all five crew. airfield used Crane Court, a former crane factory, as a hangar.

South FambridgeAirfields of Britain Memorial All Saints Church

8 Barling Magna

People have lived in the area In 998, Leofwine, a Saxon Thegn, since the Stone Age. From the left Barling in his will, to Bishop middle of the Stone Age, people Wulfstan and it became part of were attracted here by the fertile the lands owned by St Paul’s in soils of the brick earth. The London who already owned land Romans were also in evidence in in neighbouring Shopland. the area but it is the Saxons who gave the names of Barling and When the Domesday Book was Little Wakering to the villages. compiled in 1085, the manor of Little Wakering was part of the Barling is now generally accepted lands of Swein and Barling was to mean ‘Baerla’s people’ and part of the Lands of the Canons Little Wakering from the ‘People of St Paul’s. Richard, son of of Wacor or Waecer’.

St Marys Church Barling

9 Gilbert held Barrow Hall and been in private hands for a Bishop Odo, brother to William considerable time. the Conqueror held Mucking Hall. Barling had at one time a windmill. There are two ancient churches in In 1181, a mill is recorded to have the villages. During the 1100’s, existed there. On maps dating construction of both churches is from 1724 and 1749, a mill symbol believed to have started, the nave is shown, close to the church in and chancel at St Mary’s are Church Road, the smock mill built Norman and there is proof that around 1760 stood on the site until they were built before 1190 when it was demolished in 1946. the advowson and land of St Mary’s, Little Wakering was During the time of Elizabeth I, deeded by William de Tayden to St Barling was a busy sea trading Bartholomew’s Hospital, London. port and in the returns of 1564, The Tower at St Mary’s is said to Barling reported 23 ships with have been built by John Wakering, 48 marines and fisherman. In Bishop of Norwich of Barrow Hall, the 1580’s Little Wakering built 6 with financial assistance from vessels under a bounty scheme. Anne, Countess of Stafford as a Both ports traded with London thanks offering for his safe return and the Low Countries, the main from Agincourt in 1416. cargoes being grain, oysters, timber and wool. The south wall of the nave in All Saints’, Barling Magna is believed The area has always been and to be the oldest dating from the still is agricultural. In the past 12th century with additions there were numerous farms and through to the 15th Century. homesteads, these have now The Victorians undertook a major been amalgamated into three or renovation in the mid 1800’s. four large farms. The area is bordered by marshland and Both churches once had their own creeks. Winter wading birds Vicarages. The present Little frequent the area and there is a Wakering Vicarage, adjacent to the rich assortment of wildlife. church was built in 1866 and was sold in 2006. The Glebe in Barling Magna Parish Council Barling, dating from the 1700’s has 10 Canewdon

Canewdon is a large parish, which extends for several miles along the southern side of the River Crouch. The name is derived from the Saxon ‘hill of Cana’s people’ and is not named after King Canute. Evidence of early settlements have been found in the area layout was completed before the including bronze age artefacts, church was founded. Roman red hills and a paddle To the east of the church is the old dated around 1000 BC village lock-up and stocks. These discovered in the river bank. used to be located adjacent to the The Parish church of St Nicholas pond in Lambourne Hall Road. with its impressive tower is a Canewdon played a key role landmark for many miles around during the Second World War and was used as an observation being the fourth Transmission and and signalling post during the Receiver site for RADAR to be First World War. It stands on a built and was part of a chain of ridge overlooking the Crouch stations around the coast. estuary on an ancient site in a The modern day Canewdon is a large churchyard. The church’s close-knit village community. Also impressive tower is said to have included in the area is the island of been erected by Henry V in Wallasea, a very popular centre for thanksgiving for his victory at sailing and now being managed by Agincourt. Its site at the end of the the RSPB as a wetland sanctuary village street is typical of a Saxon for wildlife. village with the church ‘tacked on’ at one end, suggesting the village Joyce Smith

11 St Nicholas Church Canewdon Foulness Island

The island’s name derives from abandoned circa 280-230 AD due ‘Fulganaess’, the Old English for to the flooding caused by rising wild birds nest, and today the sea levels. The first recorded area remains a santuary to great reference of sea walls on the colonies of wading birds, Island was in “The Charter Rolls” including oytster catcher, red for 1271 AD. shank, avocets and brent geese. Foulness was originally shared The earliest known occupants of between five mainland parishes: Foulness and the smaller islands Rochford, Sutton, Little Wakering, were the Romano-British. Shopland, and Little Stambridge Archaeological evidence tells us all in the Rochford Hundred. that a civilian settlement existed at These parishes held detached Little Shelford in the south-west of rights on Foulness. The the Island, this consisted of a inhabitants had to pay tithes to cemetery where cremation urns those parishes on whose land were recovered, some with they dwelt, this lasted until all the evidence of human remains inside. Islands’ tithes were commuted to Archaeological excavation of the money payment in 1847. site has revealed that farming, fishing and in particular the Archaeological evidence suggests cultivation of oysters was taking that the first substantial quality place, but it would appear the domestic dwellings were production of salt was the main constructed in the sixteenth industry in this area at this century; however more recent particular time. The pottery archaeological excavation excavated gives us a date for (2001-03) shows high status living occupation as the late first century existed on the Island in the AD. The site appears to be fourteenth-fifteenth century. There

13 appears to have been three St Mary the Virgin Church major building phases on the Foulness Island Island: Mid 16th century, late 17th century – early 18th century, late 19th century – early 20th century. The first brick built dwellings were constructed in the early 18th century.

During the medieval period the Island was populated by shepherds and fishermen. Arable farming was taking place, but Foulness was well known for its dairy produce. The marshlands were ideal for grazing sheep and cheese, meat and ewes milk were in plentiful supply. The sheep also provided wool for the wool trade which was at its height in England during the medieval period.

The population began to increase leaving the lowlands to escape the in numbers from the sixteenth protestant persecutions. By the century due mainly to the late nineteenth century the development of arable farming on population had risen to almost the island. During the seventeenth 800. century Dutch names appear in the Parish registers. One theory The church has played a leading put forward for this is they were roll in relation to the moral

14 development of Foulness over the At the time of Domesday it was past 720 years. In 1283 a chapel Suene, then Hubert de Burgh, was built on the Island to serve the followed by Sir John de Rochford, small community and in particular the De Bohuns, and the Rich those who could not receive divine Family. The manor became part of service in their own detached the estates owned by the Finch parish. The chapel was replaced Family in 1688, when Daniel Finch during The Tudor period by a 2nd Earl of Nottingham married wooden church, which was in turn Lady Essex Rich one of six co- replaced by the present church St. heirs of the Rich family. The manor Mary the Virgin in 1850. remained in the Finch Family until the death of Alan Finch in 1910; it In 1846 The Church of England was his successor Wilfred Henry Primary School was built to take Montgomery Finch who sold the 120 children, it was extended in Lordship to the War Department 1872 to take a further 52 children. on the 13th July 1915. In 1988 the school became redundant due to the small Foulness Parish Council number of children attending (11). The school remained empty for 13 years but after negotiations between Defence Estates and The Foulness Conservation and Archaeological Society it was renovated and is now “The Foulness Heritage Centre”. Foulness has seen some prominent Lords of the manor.

River Crouch

15 Great Wakering

Wakering: The Settlement of Waecer’s People

Fifteen hundred years before the first Saxon settlers gave this place its name; men had settled and prospered farming the fertile soil. The British and County Museums exhibit just a small proportion of the large number of artefacts concerns, the famous Essex dating from late Neolithic to cheeses with which Drake and his Medieval times that have been fellow captains victualled their uncovered during brick-earth ships; oysters and fish from the excavations. creeks, sands and estuary were shipped to Billingsgate along with Wakering’s prosperity in the wild fowl over the centuries. middle ages can be shown by two Bricks and tiles have been separate quarrels over the titles, manufactured since Tudor times between the Bishop of London, and with the industrialisation of the the Prior of Prittlewell and the industry in the mid nineteenth Monks of Beeleigh Abbey, and century, over six hundred men Thomas Rawlins corresponding women and boys produced the with William Cecil. The Manor of bricks which were carried to the Wakering Hall was the highest rapidly expanding London by a rated Essex Manor when Ship fleet of sailing barges. Money was levied in 1639.

Wakering was described in A village with large farms, wide Catholic Queen Mary’s reign as “a fresh marshes providing grazing nest of heretics”. Under Elizabeth for cattle and thousands of sheep. I two vicars were deprived as An industrial village, with brick, tile, Puritans, as was Christopher cloth, glove and cheese-making Scott, a great preacher. The oral

16 tradition of the village was a Puritan stronghold, which developed later into a non-conformist centre with the radical views that gave Essex its first Labour Parish Council in 1928. It is also known to be the driest place in Britain.

Mr P W Hunter Mr P N Jeffries Mrs G M Rawlingson The Rev B J Shannon Great Wakering

St Nicholas Church Great Wakkering

17 The Church of St Mary the Virgin Hawkwell Hawkwell

Hawkwell is mentioned in the Domesday Book, but not as 'Hawkwell', it is Hacuuella or Hechuuella. In ancient records it has been spelt in various ways, such as Hacwell, Hachewell, Heckwell and Hawkeswell. As recently as 1858 Hackwell was used on a Deed in connection with the Manor of Clements. It could be derived from Hawk and Well although Philip Benton, in the late 19th century, suggested that it could be from the German 'Hochwell', or High Well. 1300. William de Bayeuse is the name of the first Rector but it is There were many wells in the not dated. The second, Alexander parish, but the High Well was the de Bayeuse, has the date of 1323. one near the White Hart. There was In the church porch, and as it was also one at the top of Victor listed in the church records, was Gardens, and one in Ironwell Lane once kept part of the top of a was called the Iron Well because stone coffin believed to be of a the water was hard, as compared former Rector of the church and with the soft water of the High dated 1280 AD. Well. Also Hacuuella or Hechuuella, There were two manors in could be from the Saxon words for Hawkwell – Clements Hall Manor 'bend in the stream' – the truth is took its name from Philip Clement hidden in the mists of time! who owned it in 1440. Many years Another mystery is the age of the later Thomas White was the owner. parish church of St. Mary the He was the brother of the Rev. Virgin. Philip Benton estimated the Gilbert White who wrote the very date to be about 1400 but others well known book 'The Natural think it could be older, perhaps History of Selborne'. The present house, a timber framed, weather

18 boarded building, is 16th century time owned by Christ's College, and had a restored fireplace with a Cambridge. carved wooden over mantel and some 17th century paneling. Sweynes (Swaines) Farm (known The jurisdiction of the Manor of by Philip Benton as "Porters".) This Hawkwell became extinct, but in is 16th century, with later altera- the reign of Edward the Confessor tions, timber framed and black (1005-66), Ulmar, a free man, weather board. This is in the Main owned the parish and at the time Road opposite Mount Bovers Lane. of the Domesday Book survey, Swaynes Farm House (Now The Eudo and his under tenant Pirot, Priest's House of St. Teresa's together with Suene (Sweyne) had Roman Catholic Church in lands here. Pirot's successors Rochford). This is 15th Century continued at Hawkwell Hall until with later alterations and additions, 1340. Hawkwell Hall is now a farm timber framed, 18th century, red and can be seen from St. Mary's brick faced. Holly Tree Cottage. Church. The present house was Mid 17th century with later built in 1833. alterations and additions, timber framed and weatherboarded, in There are several other old houses Main Road, Hawkwell. in the parish:- Mount Bovers farmhouse, built Hawkwell Parish Council approximately 1448, was at one

Swaynes Farm House

Hawkwell Hall

19 Benton's Cottages just past the White Hart were three clap boarded cottages with rope staircases and peg tiles on the roof. They were demolished in 1936 and the present house called "Bentons" was built using materials from the old cottages, some of the bricks were said to be 400 years old.

The White Hart public house is mentioned as early as 1792 when James Benton was the Innholder. This building does not appear to show on the map by Chapman & Andre of 1777. In the mid 18th century a stage coach went three times a week through Ironwell Lane, which was then the main road, and on to London.

20 Hockley

Too large to be a Village, but too Domesday Book, and the then small to be called a town, hamlet of Plumberow twice. At Hockley's origins are lost in the that time the main manor of mists of time. A signpost to the Hocheleia as it was then called past, however, is Plumberow was in the possession of the royal Mount, a tumulus that tops a hill at Saxon abbey of St. Mary's, the end of Plumberow Avenue. In Barking. The abbey retained its the early days of the 20th century responsibility for the living of the Mount was excavated in the Hockley's beautiful church until the hope that it would yield a wealthy Reformation when it eventually burial. Unfortunately the passed into the possession of excavators were disappointed for Wadham College, Oxford. all they found were broken Romano British pots and a Roman The small and much loved church coin. The true purpose of this relic with its unusual octagonal tower of Hockley's past remains a stands on a high hill to the west of mystery to this day. the village with magnificent views across the Crouch valley. The We are on firmer ground in 1086 present building dates mainly from when Hockley is mentioned no 1220 when it was rebuilt and less than three times in the enlarged.

Church of St Peter & St Paul Hockley

Plumberow Mount Hockley

21 Next to the church and opposite Hockley had one brief moment of the old manor house, is Hockley's fame when in 1843 a mineral spa original school which first opened was established in the village. A its doors in 1839. When the pump room and a hotel to building became too small a new accommodate the expected school was built on the Main Road visitors were built. Unfortunately in 1903. To the rear of the school the craze for taking the waters are Hockley Woods, which for was on the wane with people centuries served the local preferring instead to visit the new seaside resorts such as Southend and the venture failed. Over the years the old pump room has had a chequered life becoming derelict on several occasions.

The quiet and pretty village of Hockley changed forever in 1889 when the Great Eastern Railway reached Hockley. With Hockley now easily accessible to London, local landowners grasped the opportunity to get rich quick and Hockley Woods sold off their farmland for development. Special trains were run from London and the plots of community as a resource for fuel land were sold at auctions where and building material. The woods champagne flowed freely. were divided amongst a number of Eventually the holiday shacks were owners and jealously guarded with erected into more permanent high earth banks, which can still dwellings and the Hockley of be seen today. Southend pier was today was born. constructed with timber from Hockley Wood. Lesley Vingoe

22 Hullbridge

Hullbridge started as a small hamlet with a few cottages, surrounded by farmland, clustered around an inn on the riverside. It was here that pilgrims crossed the river on their way to Canterbury. Signs of the old causeway can still be seen at low tide but no remains of the bridge, said to have spanned the river from circa 1240 to Cromwell's time, are left to be seen. In 1923, High Elms Farm was sold and divided into building plots and In latter years a ferry-man would from this development the village row children across the river from of Hullbridge grew, but the foot- Woodham Ferrers to the Old School House in Hullbridge paths that crossed the fields can (still standing in Ferry Road). Jock, still be traced in the alleyways and the last of the ferry-men, was a passages between the house of stand-in for Johnny Weissmuller, today. The developers took the line the first Tarzan of the movies. of the original hedgerows to build the roadways, which explains why

Swans on the River Crouch

23 the majority of the roads in the tiles each year and the terrace of village today are straight and at houses nearby were built to house right angles to each other. the workers. Before gas and electricity arrived, The circular brickwork in the Rose barges unloaded coal at the wharf Garden at the northern end of near the existing slipway and this Ferry Road is the head of a vertical was stored on a barn where shaft 54 feet deep and at the Smugglers Den stands today. bottom a brick and steel lined Fresh water was supplied by wells, tunnel seven feet in diameter one of which was under the car crosses under the river. It was park of the Anchor public house constructed in 1926 to house a and another under the cherry tree water main so that fresh water on the corner of Pooles Lane. from the River Chelmer could be The attractive Anchor Cottages are pumped across country to a said to be about four hundred rapidly expanding Southend. years old and as most old Kendal Nature Reserve was buildings, rumored to be haunted. formed from ancient scrubland, A brickworks on the site of the which has a short but delightful Tower Caravan Park made four walk alongside the River Crouch. million bricks and thousands of Hullbridge Parish Council

Anchor Cottages Kendall Nature Reserve, Hullbridge

24 Paglesham

Bordering the River Roach is the delightful village of Paglesham, where history abounds. The village sign depicts those who worked on land and sea, and where also the cowslip (paigle in old Saxon) probably gave the village its name; i.e. Paigles’ ham - the hamlet of cowslips.

It is divided geographically into two parts, Church End and East End. There is just the one street timber framed buildings look out at the former, boasting an ancient onto farmland all around. A mile public house which was at one or two to the south east lies East time a sail loft, and Saint Peter’s End, where yet another hostelry church a place of worship dating invites you in to its cosy ambience partly back to the 11th Century. of yesteryear with hidden Red brick cottages and older suggestions of the many

St Peters Church with Stained Glass Window, Paglesham

25 smuggling activities that abounded The Roach Valley affords a century or two ago when, picturesque walking territory which according to customs records, appeals to ramblers and nature virtually every family in Paglesham lovers who can spot above the was involved in this lucrative, but colourful sea lavender and thrift illegal, pastime. many species of birds: avocets, curlews, dunlin, egrets and the The creeks and inlets from the oyster catcher in particular – the river afforded a fairly easy means latter a reminder of what of bringing ashore contraband in Paglesham was famous for in its the form of spirits, silks and lace. 19th Century heyday when local Many of which made their way oysters were the great delicacy at further inland by horse and cart to home and in our capital city. be generously distributed else- where to the financial advantage of 2009 commemorates the 200th the smugglers. It was to combat Anniversary of the birth of Charles this that HMS Beagle was moored Darwin who made a five-year in a strategic location in the river voyage in the Beagle, circumnavi- to act as Watch Vessel No 7 (as gating the globe, as a result of she was later named), where the which he was to produce his coastguard officers aboard could controversial philosophy of natural keep an eye on the several selection (and ultimately appear on tributaries that formed the nearby our £10 notes). Locals and visitors islands. This they carried out for alike are intrigued by the secret of 25 years from 1845 – 1870, when the possible last resting place of it was deemed no longer this famous ship which ended her necessary. days nesting in the Paglesham mud.

Ann Boulter

26 Rayleigh

Rayleigh derives its name from the building of a network of castles. Saxon words ‘raege’ (a wild she Robert Fitzwymarc who held the goat or roe deer) and ‘leah’ ‘Honour of Rayleigh’ before the (a clearing). invasion was one of few allowed to retain his land and he built his Although its origins are set in castle in Clavering in the north of prehistoric times, the town of Essex. It was his son Sweyne who Rayleigh’s prominence is due to its built Rayleigh’s motte & bailey elevation as part of the ridge of castle (in the words of the hills spreading from South Benfleet Domesday Book ‘and in this to Hockley. manor Sweyne built his castle’). It When William the Conqueror is the only Essex castle mentioned invaded England in 1066 one of in the Domesday Book. his first acts was to order the

Holy Trinity Church Rayleigh

27 It is one of the few castles that the castle was no longer used mentioned in the book and as such as a fortification. In 1394 King considered one of the earliest Richard II gave permission for the Norman castles in England. It may townspeople of Rayleigh to use have been built on the site of an the foundations of the castle as a earlier Roman fortification since source of stone. Since the fragments of Roman bricks have foundations are explicitly been found on the site. At Sweynes mentioned in the document giving death the Castle passed to his son permission, it is unlikely that any Robert de Essex and then to his other masonry structures remained grandson Henry d'Essex. Around by then. 1140 the motte was covered in stone rubble. The site of the castle was used for grazing sheep after it fell into Henry was accused of cowardice disuse. Photos taken in the 1920's in battle in 1163 and subject to a show the mount free from any trial by combat which he lost. large trees or shrubs as the The castle and its estates were grazing prevented their growth, confiscated to become the however since the grazing property of the king, Richard I. stopped, large trees have grown Extensive alterations were made to on the site. The castle is known it in 1172 and in 1183-4, the now as Rayleigh Mount and is property was given by King John managed by the National Trust. to Hubert de Burgh in around 1200 who probably used it as a source The Second World War Convoy of building materials for the castle rescue ship Empire Rest was which he started building in 1230 originally laid down as a Castle 5 km away at Hadleigh. class corvette to have been named HMS Rayleigh Castle after On the death of Hubert's son in the ruins. the latter half of the 13th century, ownership of the castle reverted to Although an area of religious the monarch. Documents dating devotion since Saxon times between 1279 and 1303 refer to Rayleigh’s distinctive Parish the motte as being used for Church at the top of the high pasture, which probably means Street dates mainly from the

28 Perpendicular Period (14th to 16th Rayleigh was an important town on centuries). In 1555 two Protestant the Rochford Hundred Adjoining martyrs were burnt at the stake for Roads Division of the Essex refusing to deny their faith and a Turnpike Trust set up in 1746. The memorial was erected to their ‘King’s Highway’ from Wickford memory in 1908 at the top of passed the site of what is now the Crown Hill. In the 19th and early Carpenter’s Arms public House 20th centuries a branch of the along the London Road and at the Peculiar People religious sect was top of London Hill the highway prominent in the town. branched into two, one route to Hockley & Rochford and the other to Hadleigh & Leigh. Several mile- Rayleigh Windmill stones remain by the side of the road from Rayleigh to Rochford as a reminder of those days. Many inns and smithies supplied the needs of both travellers and horses.

Rayleigh was the original home of the Whispering Court which was located in Kingley Wood which was cut in two by the arrival of the new A127 in 1925 close by Rayleigh Weir. The Lord of the Manor returning home late one night heard several of his tenants plotting against him in whispers. He made them swear allegiance to him at a special court which was held annually at dead of night. The court later moved to Rochford. At 240 feet above sea level the town and its immediate

29 vicinity were a prime location for land was purchased in 1808 by a windmills. The first documented Mr Thomas Higgs together with an mention of a windmill in Rayleigh adjoining brickfield and the mill dates from 1300 when King was completed in 1809. Edward I instructed the Prior of Prittlewell to erect a mill in The advent of the railway in 1889 Rayleigh. It was probably a turned the town from a quiet wooden mill near or by the mount tranquil village in the 19th century and castle. One of the earliest was (population circa 1500) to the a watermill in the grounds of the bustling vibrant town it is today White House, once a substantial (population circa 35000). farm covering hundreds of acres The first arterial road in the country by the Eastwood Road and part of specifically built for motor vehicles the Royal Hunting Forest. It was was opened in 1925 (now the also believed to be one of the A127) and passed on the edge of areas used by Henry VIII and Anne Rayleigh and some of the large Boleyn for their courting. farms and manor houses became The first detailed map of Essex housing estates that are familiar to (1777) shows a windmill in the us today. Also in the 1920s locals Hockley Road (Ruffles, demolished and visitors were entertained in in the 19th century) and one such places as the Clissold Hall by opposite the Methodist Church in the Rayleigh Minstrels or saw early what was called Mill Lane (now black and white silent films at the Eastwood Road). In 1793 a Cosy Talkie Theatre. Rayleigh also second mill was erected close by had its own brewery and several and the name of the road was brickfields. Many will recall the changed to Two Mill Lane. Both Speedway Stadium near Rayleigh these mills were demolished in the Weir home of the Rayleigh 1880s. There was conjecture for Rockets from 1948 to 1973. In many years as to the date that addition greyhound racing, stock Rayleigh’s remaining mill was built. car racing, wrestling and other Benton states that it was built in sports took place here. 1798 by the licensee of the Lion Public House but later research Mike Davies (Rayleigh Through the attributes the date of 1809. The Looking Glass)

30 Rawreth

To the north west of Rayleigh is Rawreth Village. Historians suggest two origins of the name, firstly that it came from Ravengar who was the Saxon owner of the manor of Beches or secondly, the Saxon translation of a Heron stream. Property of note included Trenders Hall, a moated manor in Trenders population and pockets of Avenue first mentioned in the year industry. Historically, most of the 1210. Also Rawreth Hall, the seat farmhouses in Rawreth were of the manor was granted to moated manors, many of which Cardinal Wolsey in 1525 by Henry survive today. In the north, VIII and reverted to the Crown Battlesbridge straddles the river upon his death. In the early 1900s Crouch and is therefore shared Horatio Bottomley, planned to between the parishes of cash in on the potential population Rettendon and Rawreth. It was explosion after the arrival of the named after the mediaeval family railway to Rayleigh in 1889 by Bataille, not a battle. opening up a small brickfield to erect plotlands type houses. The The original Parish Council was first building was in actual fact a disbanded in the 1930s when the public house called the Bricklayers area was united with Rayleigh to Arms, known at the time by locals form the original Urban District. It as the Klondyke. Unfortunately the was reformed in 1994, following scheme failed and he was jailed the reorganisation of Local for fraud. Government. The area is mainly agricultural in Rochford District Council nature with dispersed centres of

31 St Nicholas Church Rawreth Rochford

In days gone by Rochford was then owner of the Hall to the centre of activity for miles dissuade travellers from the around, the chief town of the natural approach to Rochford Rochford Hundred, a sub-division running past his front door. Today, of Essex. That importance, long as headquarters of Rochford before the establishment of Hundred Golf Club, we see just Southend, or the growth of one corner of what was a very Rayleigh, has left its mark today large manorial house. Opinions and it is well worth exploring that differ as to its age, but it probably heritage. had origins in 12th/13th century. Certainly we know that it was in Approaching Rochford from the the ownership of the Boleyn west, one passes The Lawn, family in the early 16th century nowadays a fine function suite, when the Earl of Ormonde, Ann but originally a substantial house Boleyn’s grandfather had going back to 18th century and regained possession by beyond, possibly used as a petitioning Henry VII. It passed to gatehouse to Rochford Hall, a Ann’s father and then, there being mile further ahead. This road, with no male heir, to Ann’s sister, Mary, two Grade II listed milestones still who had married Sir William in place, was built in 1777 by the Stafford. Little evidence exists to

The Lawn

Rochford Hall

33 Passing under the railway bridge, and turning right the eye is drawn to the row of Almshouses, still in good use, belying their 16th/17th century construction by Earl of Warwick in fulfilment of the Will of Richard Rich, his grandfather. A little further on the distinctive high roof of Whittingham’s Garage tells us that, before the advent of cars, support local legends about Ann’s coaches were made and repaired residing at the Hall for any lengthy there. The railway was extended period, but Mary and her husband from Shenfield a century ago, did take up residence here and intended for agricultural business, farmed in the area. A little later running through South East Essex ownership fell to the Earls of market towns. The Freight House Warwick, with Richard Rich being was the holding “shed” for the most notable resident so far as livestock from Rochford market. Rochford is concerned. He was The Rochford Reservoir was Lord Chancellor of England and constructed as a water source for died at Rochford Hall in 1567. the steam trains.

St. Andrew’s Church a typical In West Street you will see example of 13th/14th century 18th/19th century properties, stone construction, with an mostly quite modest, since this impressive 16th century brick area was intended for shopping tower, featuring diapering and trade generally. One might decoration, and with the Coat of select a number of individual Arms of Earl of Ormonde, who shops for mention – an example was responsible for its would be the bookshop, with the construction. To the north is the sweetshop next door, on the right vestry, a late 16th century brick half way up. A century or so ago addition. Outside, the Grade II Mr. Francis conducted a printing listed grave of James Banyard – business here, together with founder of The Peculiar People – running the post office. Look can be found. carefully at the brickwork to see

34 where letters would have been certainly during the 1800’s there posted at that time. Continuing was a renowned grocery and tea up to Market Square, we come rooms, for example. On the south upon a large open area which side there is the W.I. Hall which many older residents recall as the goes back to 1866 when it was site of a weekly livestock market built as the Corn Exchange. By which had its beginnings 750 the turn of the century Mr. Francis years ago with the granting of a had moved his printing business Royal Charter. into the premises, following a downturn in its original use, and Looking round the Square we see then WW1 saw it used as a Connaught House as perhaps the laundry. The Women’s Institute most impressive building, took possession in 1931. The constructed around 1770, it is building next door is currently said by a man of Irish descent Barclays Bank was built in 1860’s. with “lottery” winnings. The east side was originally open, but, The Kings Head has always dominated this side of the Square St Andrews Church having been the first stop for Rochford stage coaches on their route to London from Prittlewell, there were stabling facilities at the rear. The same pub was, for many years, the point from which the annual Whispering Post ceremony commenced. This all began some 400 years ago when the then Lord of the Manor, 2nd Earl of Warwick, wanted to scotch plots against him by some of his tenants – minor manorial lords around the area. He’d heard them whispering one night. He called

35 The Old House Rochford If we continue our route out from the Square, turning right, we shall be passing Horner’s Corner, so called from the butcher’s shop with its own slaughter house behind. It had housed a firm of auctioneers before that in the days when the cattle market was in full swing. The building fell into disuse but has been carefully restored. In South Street, to our left are a number of buildings with 17th century origins, and then the “Old them to pledge their allegiance House”, almost half-way down on late one September night. This the left, is Rochford’s pride and unique ceremony, in latter years, joy. Again the story is one of fairly took the form of a supper at recent restoration. Rochford Kings Head, a procession at District Council took on the work midnight across the Square, when demolition seemed likely through the alley beside the and it now serves as an important bakers, straight across North part of their office complex here. Street and up to Kings Hill. At this The building certainly goes back to house is a post around which the 13th century and grew over the “tenants” gathered to honour their years as it was used as a family Lord in whispers. The whole thing residence. ended with further feasting at Kings Head. All this continued Sydenham House, also in South annually until 1892 when “Health Street, is a substantial 18th & Safety” deemed that drunken century dwelling which served as youths with flaming torches, many a Girls’ boarding school during having travelled into Rochford for the 1800’s. Then there is the the event, was all too dangerous. Masonic Hall, built as the Court The Whispering Post, however, House in 1860’s, a reminder that remains in place in the garden of Rochford was, indeed, the Kings Hill in East Street. administrative centre for a wide area.

36 Although currently named During August 1939, the Air Southend Airport, the facility is ministry requisitioned all such partly on land in the Rochford commercial airfields, and District. There is a long history of Rochford was closed as a civil aviation from this location starting aerodrome on 1st September. The in late 1914 when it was first airfield was to become known as developed as an operational base RAF Rochford and placed in No for the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) 11 Group of Fighter Command as in the Great War, becoming the a satellite field to RAF largest flying ground in Essex, Hornchurch. with the greatest number of units. In May 1915 the Royal Naval Air R.A.F. Rochford (Southend) was Service took over, until 4 June de-requisitioned and a licence 1916 when it became RFC was issued to Southend Rochford. It was designated as Corporation on 31st December night fighter station and many 1946 and the airport returned to sorties were flown against commercial and pleasure flights. Zeppelin airship raiders, including LZ38 on 31 May 1915. In 1920 Mr. Maurice Drage the station closed and reverted to farmland for a while. St Marys Church Little Wakering The airport was officially opened as a municipal airport on 18 September 1935 by the Under- Secretary of State for Air, Sir Philip Sassoon, who arrived in his de Havilland Leopard Moth.

37 Stambridge

The Village of Great Stambridge lies on the north bank of the River Roach. On its northern and western boundary, Little Stambridge. It has numerous creeks and inlets interspersed with saltings and old oyster pits. With its water meadows, landscapes and riverside walks, Stambridge is one of the most picturesque areas of Rochford Hundred – tranquil, and in parts – lonely and desolate, its scenes of natural beauty untouched by time. Stapleford Tawney and Chignell In Edward the Confessor’s reign, Tawney. Thomas Sutton Esq. this parish belonged to Osward settled this property on and at the Domesday Survey to Charterhouse in the reign of Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and James I. He had previously Swain. Swain held it under the purchased them from Thomas Bishop and Wicard held it under Lawson alias Edmonds, in 1604. Swain. The Manor of Great The Governors of Charterhouse Stambridge was afterwards paid the sum of £500 to Charles I divided into three; Great for deforesting this and several Stambridge, Hampton Barns and other Manors in 1638. Barton Hall. In King John’s time the ancient family of Musters held In 1579, (Queen Elizabeth’s reign) land here under Richard this Manor and advowson were Fitzwilliam. The De Tarry family sold for £800. In 1670 the became possessed of this Govenors of Charterhouse at a property through marrying the Court held before the Chief aforesaid Richard’s grand- Justice of the King’s forests, daughter and gave the name to claimed within this Manor the

38 right of pillory and gallows and creek had formed there and two examination of weights and distinct village settlements of huts measures. had developed. Hut doors were discovered as also was pottery At some distance down the lane dated from 500 B.C. when the by the river past the church occupants were forced to move stands “Waldons”. It is a modern to the Continent due to house set on a peninsular, south deteriorating weather conditions of Bartonhall creek and north of and variations in the water table. the River Roach. Built between Photographs of Hampton Barns two sea walls, it former name by Charles Bruce Great was, appropriately “Wallsend”. Stambridge, 1990, home of the It is known that in earlier years a Rankin Family “Barton Hall” or farmhouse stood on the site. The “Bartons”, once a mediaeval present house was built in 1953 mansion, now long since to replace an old wooden demolished, stood at the extreme structure, and although the East eastern end of Great Stambridge Coast floods of that year caused parish overlooking the water on considerable damage to property an arm of Bartonhall Creek. Little in the vicinity of the water, is known of its early occupants, Waldons stood above flood level save one, Sir Richard Le Breton, and was unaffected. who gave the house its earlier name of “Bretons” or “Breton” Evidence that Great Stambridge and has been remembered as existed as a settlement some either “Bartons” or “Barton Hall” five-hundred years before Christ, ever since. in the Iron Age, and again in Saxon times, has been confirmed, William the Conqueror gave this following excavations in recent Manor to Sir Auvrai Le Breton years at “Hampton Barns” when it who came to England from was found that at one time a Normandy with the King and

39 fought valiantly at his side at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, together with the manor of Sanford in Somerset (the village being sometimes called “Sanford Bret” after this family). Simon Le Breton lived there with his two sons, Richard and Edmund, both boys becoming joint heirs to the two estates. At their fathers decease they inherited both Sanford and Great Stambridge. They were courtiers and well liked and spent much of their time at the court of Henry II. At this time, Sir Richard Le Breton was the close friend and confidant of Prince William, the King’s brother.

With Stambridge, being nearer to the Court, Richard chose to live there in preference to the family seat in Somerset. Besides, The Royal Forest of Essex, stretching as it did to the extreme boundaries of Rochford Hundred, included Stambridge and frequently as with all the Plantagenet monarchs, the King with Prince William and their courtiers would hunt this way, passing the night in the conveniently situated, out-of-the- way, Barton Hall.

Philip Benton Village view Mrs Jerram-Burrows Stambridge

40 Sutton

Sutton is a civil parish in the was demolished following bomb District of Rochford. It is located damage, artifacts were removed between the River Roach and the and went to Sutton Church and adjoining Borough of Southend others. Shopland churchyard is on Sea, and includes the Hamlet rededicated every year. of Shopland. It has a population All Saints Church is of Norman of 127, the smallest in the District; origin and boasts a medieval although at the time of the coffin lid and brass of 1371 from Domesday Book it had a the demolished ancient church at flourishing village with its own Shopland. The brass depicts Sir market and fair. Thomas Stapel, Sergeant at Arms The area is known locally as to Edward III, in armour such as Sutton with Shopland. The civil he would have worn at the Battle parish of Shopland was of Crecy. amalgamated with Sutton in 1933. When Shopland church Wikipedia

All Saints Church Sutton

41 Acknowledgements

This Heritage Guide could not have been put together without the help and contributions from the following people:

Mike Davies (Rayleigh Through the Looking Glass) Ashingdon Parish Council Barling Magna Parish Council Canewdon Parish Council Joyce Smith Foulness Island Parish Council Great Wakering Parish Council Mr P W Hunter Mr P N Jefferies Mrs G M Rawlingson The Rev B J Shannon Hawkwell Parish Council Hockley Parish Council Lesley Vingoe Hullbridge Parish Council Paglesham Parish Council Ann Boulter Rochford Parish Council Mr Maurice Drage Stambridge Parish Council Philip Benton Mrs Jerram-Burrows Mr & Mrs B Summerfield Wikipedia David Shields Photography

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the historical accuracy of the information contained within this publication Rochford District Council and others who contributed information can not be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this guide.

42 Hockley Woods Designed & Printed by Printed on recycled paper Character Print & Design Ltd Issue 1: September 2009