WHERE MEDIEVAL MEETS MODERN
A CHANGE OF !"!# $%! &!'$-()*+ ,()#' )-! '.&/!0$ $1 charter season, so the owners decided to make an rugged mountains, the ramparts rising 850 feet atic bound for Dubrovnik, the rugged Croatian COURSE LEADS change—something that is never more true than about-face and head west, responding to increasing above the bay. Inside its walls, charming architec- coastline was laid out ahead of us. A line of deeply THIS LONG" when dealing with yachts and ocean voyages. requests for charters in the Mediterranean. Golden tural details, tiled roofs, plazas and winding stone scarred towering cli3 s soared hundreds of feet up VOYAGING YACHT Beginning their circumnavigation in September Compass retraced her passage back across the streets appear much as they have for the past 500 from the sea. The rock stood inhospitable and ON A JAUNT 2009, the owners of Golden Compass planned a two- Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, up through the Suez years but are now 4 lled with upscale restaurants, de4 ant, giving no invitation of landfall; “the cli3 s THROUGH THE year adventure working their way eastward from Canal and into the Med, arriving just in time for the shops and inviting taverns. of insanity” from The Princess Bride came to mind. RUGGED Fort Lauderdale, Florida, through the Atlantic, Genoa charter yacht show. An ancient path of hand-cut stone climbs 1,350 The occasional village hangs high above the sea on COASTLINE AND Mediterranean and South Pacific and on to their A2 erwards, Golden Compass rounded the tip of steps up from the city to the Castle of St. John at the a precarious perch, surrounded by a desolate land- ANCIENT PORTS homeport in Washington State. During two years of Italy, heading into the Adriatic Sea and on to the summit. Once the city’s fallback defensive position, scape where solid rock prevents all but the hardiest OF CROATIA’S remarkable travel, Golden Compass attracted the medieval city of Kotor, Montenegro. Here, my teenage the climb now challenges only tourists. The path of vegetation to take root. DALMATIAN attention of the superyacht set, earning her owners son, McKenzie, and I joined the yacht. This was a through the fortress begins beneath a decorative During the 4 ve-hour run to Dubrovnik, Golden these pages COAST. the prestigious Voyager’s Award at the World Super- homecoming of sorts as I had the pleasure of explor- arch behind the Church of St. Maria of the River. A Compass’s guests gravitated to their various areas Cruising from Montenegro yacht Awards in May 2012 in Istanbul, Turkey. ing Cuba, the Amazon and East Timor aboard Golden journey best made before the heat of the day, the of comfort around the vessel, some reading in the (right page) to Rovinj, JIM RAYCROFT But Golden Compass’s story didn’t end there. A2 er Compass during its o3 -the-beaten-track cruise. e3 ort rewards the intrepid climber with a spectacu- salon, some dozing as the easy rolling sea miles Croatia (le! page) reveals centuries-old structures several memorable weeks in Papua New Guinea A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kotor is situated lar view of the city and the entire glacial-carved ticked o3 in our wake. I settled on the main a2 deck, surrounded by modern-day followed by scheduled yard time in Thailand, the at the southern end of the Bay of Kotor, set approx- basin of the bay. a spot where I had spent many hours enjoying a trappings. plans that would keep Golden Compass on her east- imately 15 miles inland from the Adriatic Sea. Dating Although a lovely place, we would not linger in panoramic viewpoint while underway. ward, homebound-track changed. The yard work back to 1550, the formidable walls of the Kotor Montenegro—this trip was about exploring Croa- With a warm glow of sunset re5 ecting o3 a calm was completed in advance of the 2012 summer Fortress protect the city that backs up to steep, tia’s Dalmatian Coast. Steaming north into the Adri- sea, Golden Compass arrived in Dubrovnik and
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dropped anchor near the entrance to the protected in the rocks above. The chamber burst with an ancient harbor. The beauty of the anchorage was intense blue glow from the sunlight re5ecting o3 enhanced by the call to dinner and another of Chef the water. The grotto has only two access points— Normand’s wonderful culinary presentations. Follow- the one we entered in the boat or by diving through ing dinner, the Nautica tender rushed us towards the an opening in the cave’s ceiling. McKenzie and I great stone dock inside the city’s defensive walls for couldn’t resist the challenge. our 4rst look at the magni4cent old port. A2er lunch, we took a turn on the two personal Dubrovnik was built on a peninsula offering watercra2 and enjoyed some excellent father-son enhanced protection from warring neighbors. The rivalry. Balun Bay o3ered the perfect environment 4rst settlement dates back to the 6th century, and it for the sport; we maneuvered around towering rocks went on to serve as one of the most signi4cant mari- and entered deserted bays that haven’t changed in time and mercantile centers of the Adriatic during a thousand years. By late a2ernoon, we were under- the 14th and 15th centuries. The massive wall that way to the city of Split, a jewel on the “Dalmatian encircles the port stretches for 1.24 miles—a walk Riviera” 40 miles to the north. along it provides a great view of the historic city and We dropped anchor in Split at 9:30 p.m., just in coast. For another commanding vista, ride the tram time for some serious nightlife at an open-air, water- to the summit for a spectacular aerial view, punctu- front nightclub—or so we thought. The young, hip ated by the expanse of orange-tile roofs. Dubrovnik night scene doesn’t get rolling until late, very late. is a maze of narrow stone streets lined with shops By midnight our shore party, most of whom had been o3ering everything from tourist trinkets to the latest up since dawn, were ready to throw in the towel, but international designer fashion. Too narrow for motor the club was just beginning to pulsate to the heavy vehicles to traverse, the winding streets and steep beat with an ever-increasing volume and light show steps require that everything from restaurant provi- as hundreds of stylish young Croatians poured in sions to furniture be carried in on foot. ready for a good party. We gladly le2 them to it. The city and its people are welcoming, giving little Split is far from a party town, though; it o3ers an hint of the ravages of war and suffering they abundance of galleries, museums and historic endured during an eight-month siege in 1991 when sights, and it is the region’s cultural and adminis- Dubrovnik was repeatedly attacked and bombarded trative center. The Palace of Diocletian located in by Serbians intent on conquering the region. As the heart of the city is a World Heritage site and is one shopkeeper told us, “it was bad, very bad, but considered to be one of the best-conserved Roman now life is good again.” palaces in the world. A delightful mix of old and At the end of a day of exploring, Golden Compass’s new—the Split Blues Festival was being set up in owners and guests met at the Taverna Arsenal, an the square when we arrived—the city entertained upscale establishment that occupies the former us with open-air markets, street vendors, stylish For an unforgettable moment, visit the Blue Grotto between 11 a.m. and stone arsenal building perched on the edge of the shops, balconies dripping with beautiful 5owers and noon, when the sunlight reflects through the water, bathing the grotto in blue. inner harbor. Seated at a table along the veranda, incredible views into the past. the view of the harbor at nightfall was magical, and As Golden Compass departed Split that evening the fare of fresh local seafood and pasta rivaled any for the 120-mile overnight run to Kornati National we would experience. Park, we were treated to yet another spectacular right Motoring through the night gave us the advan- sunset. We arrived at the park at 7:00 a.m. and En route to Dubrovnik is tage of spending our days exactly where we wanted cruised around the north end of Dugi Otok island, the coastal town of Perast, to be. The next morning dawned clear and calm as making a turn to the south where we would be Montenegro, where just offshore lies the chapel- we pulled into the east side of Balun Bay at the protected in the island’s lee. topped manmade island these pages island of Bi6evo and dropped anchor 100 yards from The Kornati archipelago consists of 140 islands of Our Lady of the Rocks. Once a Roman amphitheater, the Blue Grotto. A natural cave at the edge of the spread out over 124 square miles. This area bears The legend of the church’s Pula Arena in Rovinj (above) origin dates back to the 15th now hosts festivals and sea, the Blue Grotto has a narrow opening suitable more than a passing resemblance to Maine’s rocky century and reveals that concerts. Likewise, stately only for very small boats. We paid the cave’s gate- coast, although the 4shing boats are of a distinct dozens of ships were sunk plazas in Dubrovnik (right keeper and passed from daylight to darkness. Inside, European design and fewer trees line the coast. We on the site to create the tiny page, top) remain much as island in honor of fishermen they were centuries ago, but with 5ashlight beams bouncing o3 the rocks, we passed small villages—their red-tile roofs standing discovering the painting of today buzz with high-end wound through the dark into a large cavern illumi- out from a backdrop of stone hills—on the way to “Our Lady,” the Virgin Mary, cafes and shops. nated by sunlight 4ltering in through an opening Prolaz Proversa Bay at the cut between Dugi Otok on the reef.
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Zagreb
Rovinj
Dugi Otok CROATIA
Katina fact file Sibenik CAPITAL: Zabreb POPULATION: 4.407 million Adriatic Sea Split GOVERNMENT: Parliamentary democracy, is in the process of BOSNIA & accession to the European Brač HERZEGOVINA Union (EU) PASSPORT REQUIREMENTS/ Hvar Croatian, a South LANGUAGE: VISAS: U.S. citizens need a valid Slavic language that is used passport for stays up to 90 days. Vis primarily by the inhabitants of Visitors must register with the local Korčula Croatia as well as Croats in police within 24 hours of entry. Bievo Bosnia and Herzegovina. Many TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS: Travel locals speak some English. Dubrovnik may be restricted by mine clearing WHEN TO GO: operations along former conflict Between April and September, Kotor lines. Check with the Croatian Mine GENERAL YACHT INFORMATION: MONTENEGRO with July and August being the Action Center’s website www.hcr.hr. Visit the Ministry of Maritime peak of the tourist season. Affairs, Transport and TELEPHONE CODE: 385 CLIMATE: Mediterranean Infrastructure for the TIME ZONE: GMT +1 CHARTERING GOLDEN COMPASS: climate along the coast, 77 to Harbormaster’s information for Contact Ocean Independence, 86 degrees Fahrenheit in the ELECTRICITY: 220V, 50Hz Electric each cruising area: www.mppi.hr James Graham-Cloete, tel: +44 summer GETTING THERE/NEAREST TOURISM: http://croatia.hr/en-GB/ (0) 1273 831 010, email: james@ CURRENCY: Croatian kuna AIRPORT: Dubrovnik and Zagreb Homepage ocyachts.com
and Katina islands. Soon we were o3 to do some exploring and cathedral took us by galleries, small hotels, bars and shops, their serious speed runs on the powerful PWC. The fast machine is colorful doors and shutters vibrant in the morning light. A few rated to 80 miles per hour, but hitting 70 was plenty fast enough miles down the coast, the Pula Arena caught our interest. Built for me to show my boy that the old man can still mix it up. in the 1st century A.D. during the reign of Emperor Vespasian, the As the day came to a close, preparations were underway on former Roman amphitheater that once hosted Gladiator sport is the sun deck for the owner’s birthday party. We dri2ed with the now a 5,000-seat venue for a variety of entertainment from 4lm breeze and enjoyed vintage wine and cocktails with a fabulous festivals to equestrian festivals to operas and concerts, while the barbecue as we were treated to yet another startlingly beautiful underground passages now play host to viticulture exhibitions. sunset over the rugged hills of Dugi Otok. Slowly cruising through This amphitheater seemed to typify the Dalmatian Coast, a place the protected expanse of waterway in the national park devoid where old and new collide, creating a landscape of ancient cities of any signs of population, we seemed to be alone in the world. rich with modern diversions. Next was a 12-hour, 125-mile run to Rovinj. Located o3 Istria As poet Robert Burns wrote, “The best laid schemes of mice Peninsula, it is among the top coastal holiday destinations in and men go o2en awry,” but it isn’t always for the worse. For Golden Croatia. With its buildings set at the edge of the sea, the old city Compass’s guests, a change in plans provided a fresh chance to appears to grow out of the water, rising up to the Cathedral of St. discover new ports and people and see the sun set from a di3er- Euphemia. A walk through the charming streets leading to the ent part of the world.ã
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