North Peru and Iquitos 11 Dec 2006 – 13 Jan 2007
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North Peru and Iquitos 11 dec 2006 – 13 jan 2007 SPANGLED COTINGA AT NUEVO SALEM PHOTO: ROGER AHLMAN Report compiled by Roger Ahlman Introduction This was Roger’s sixth trip to Northern Peru. The trip was organized by Andean Birding. In general the whether was good but a little bit too much rain in the Abra Patricia area and we doubtless lost some species there, specially in the Afluentes part. The dense fog at Limon de Porcuya was of course a major problem with visibility just 5-10 metres. ExplorNapo near Iquitos was not very successful partly because lack of time but also some rain and some species that just wouldn’t show. The roads in the Marañon are generally in rather poor condition with the stretch between Leimebamba and Pedro Ruiz being worst. Our car supplier did not deliver the car at Cajamarca as agreed and the first days had to be a bit rough due to time problems, but we didn’t miss any target species due to this. Also we didn’t have a reservation at Nuevo Salem. The agency which handles this did not do what they were told. We sorted that out on spot and no harm done. Otherwise the trip went without any major problems. Light stomach illness grazed in the group but nothing serious. Participants Leader - Roger Ahlman, Swedish but living in Quito, Ecuador. [email protected] Driver: Adriano Stefan Andersson – Sweden Jonas Starck – Sweden Stefan Lithner – Sweden Anders Jihmanner – Sweden Skip Nelson – USA Lynn Nelson - USA Content Itinerary 3 Bird List 10 Mammal List 54 ITINERARY 11 dec – The group was met at Lima airport by the leader Roger Ahlman and transferred to a nice hotel nearby. 12 dec – Early departure (3.45 am) for the airport and the flight to Iquitos where we were met by staff from the Tahuayo lodge. The heat and the first lowland birds met us as we went to the port and a two and a half hour boat ride to the lodge. After lunch we hit the trail behind the lodge in nice igapò forest. Good for being in the afternoon with Black-tailed Antbird and Blue- cheeked Jacamar as highlights. 13 dec – After a short boat ride to San Pedro village, we walked the nice trail to Chino village. Rather slow but Spix’s Guan, Great Jacamar, Saturnine Antshrike and Striped Manakin. In the afternoon we went upriver and transferred to canoes and finally came to a small tower overlooking a marsh which had Horned Screamer and Lemon-throated Barbet among others. 121 species today. 14 dec!– In the morning we again did the igapò trail behind the lodge. Highlights included Dot-backed Antbird, Chestnut-capped Puffbird and Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher. Afternoon was spent around Chino with the target Short-tailed Parrot soon bagged. A number of other nice birds went onto the list including Black-spotted Bare-eye, Sulphury Flycatcher and Spotted Tody-flycatcher. 15 dec – On the way back to Iquitos we stopped at a river island at the mouth of river Tahuayo which was very good with several river island specialists like Black-and-white Antbird, Ash-breasted Antbird, Castelnau’s Antshrike and Plain-breasted Piculet. Roger saw a pair of Pale-breasted Spinetail which may not be known from this part of Peru. Another island with lower vegetation completed the list with birds like White-bellied Spinetail and Lesser Hornero. A bigger island was mostly for boxlunch before we went back to Iquitos and the nice Posada de Lobo. In the afternoon we went to the Mishana-Allpahuayo reserve not far from Iquitos. As could be expected it was very quiet but we did find a pair of Brown- banded Puffbirds and a male Pearly Antshrike. 16 dec – We were picked up at the hotel by Lucio from the Explorama lodge and transferred to the dock for three rather boring hours to the ExplorNapo lodge. After lunch we hit the trails to look for an antswarms that had been around a few days before. We didn’t find those and not much else either. A pair of Black-and-white Tody-Flycatchers helped a bit. After dinner we made a boattrip upriver and spotlighted a Rufous Potoo to everyones delight. 17 dec – We left the lodge at 4.30 for the canopy walkway. Great Potoo heard en route. Good activity until 10 am when we went back. Breakfast was supposed to be delivered to us but that did not happen! After lunch and a short rest we went with boat to a river island and had brief views of Bay Hornero and Zimmer’s Woodcreeper. Further down the Napo river we came to some sandbars which had many Sand-coloured Nighthawks and Pied Lapwing. Up another small river to a marsh where we tape out a pair of White-chinned Jacamars. After dinner we went for a nightwalk to a site for Nocturnal Currasow but it started to rain just as we came there and we didn’t hear or see them, unfortunately. 18 dec – Early breakfast and a rather eventless walk on the trails until we found an antswarm that had several species of antbirds. Departure at 9 am for Ceiba Tops lodge and lunch. As the boat shouldn’t leave until later we took a taxi boat back to Iquitos and the hotel. Back to the Bellavista harbour and a chartered boat took us up the Nanay river to Cocha Padre. After a while we taped in a Black-crested Antshrike and at dusk saw a few Band-tailed Nighthawks. 19 dec – Departure 5 am with our local guide Juan Diaz to Mishana- Allpahuayo in light drizzle. Very quiet in the forest but we did find a few things like Ancient Antwren, Zimmer’s Antbird and Orange-crested Manakin. Back to Iquitos for lunch, shower and to the airport and back to Lima. 20 dec – Again a very early departure to the airport and morning flight to Cajamarca. Skip and Lynn Nelson met us at the airport and the group was complete for the main part of the tour. Charlie Vogt was also part of the team (but not for long…). The first few days was to be a bit off schedule due to problems with the hired car that was not here as agreed. Unfortunately we used an unreliable company for this. Another car took us to our hotel at Baños del Inca and we dumped our stuff and went south to San Marcos and a stake-out for the rare Great Spinetail. After a lot of playbacking and singing response, most in the group got brief views of one bird. Several other birds were here as well like the endemic Black-necked Woodpecker. In the afternoon we went to rio Chonta and tried in vain for the Gray-bellied Comet but had to settle with birds like Black Metaltail, Rusty-crowned Tit- spinetail and others. 21-22 dec – Back to Rio Chonta and another try for the Comet. This time we found a male that eventually everyone saw well and the first of several rare hummingbirds was under the belt. Baron’s Spinetail was another Peruvian endemic that we found as well. Back to Baños del Inca and the car finally came around 1 pm. Now we found out that there simply wasn’t enough room for everyone so Charlie had to be ditched unfortunately. The car was loaded by 2 pm and now started the torturous trip to el Molino… A long drive south via Cajabamba on bad dirt roads and into the night. The driver and people were tired and we made a few stops until we came to a rushing river at 1 am and had to stop. We all crashed in the car for a few hours until 6 am when it was light enough to see how to cross the river. We continued and came to El Molino around 10 am and didn’t have to get out of the car before we had seen what we came here for – the critically endangered Purple-backed Sunbeam! 15 hours from Cajamarca and a rough night in the car is what it takes to get this one. We walked the trail here and saw another and also taped out the endemic Unicoloured Tapaculo before we started the long and equally boring drive back to Cajamarca. We stopped at laguna Sausacocha to pick up some high altitude wetland species. We made it as far as Cajabamba and found a hotel at 8 pm. 23 dec – We left Cajabamba at 5 am and had breakfast in San Marcos and a short stop to try again for the Great Spinetail but just heard it. On the way to Celendin we stopped at La Encañada and found Jelski’s Chat-Tyrant. Near Cruz Conga we stopped at a stake-out and after a while most in the group had got glimpses of the ‘Cajamarca’ Rufous Antpitta and we also saw Jelski’s Chat-Tyrant here and the baroni race of Rufous-naped Brush-Finch. Later on we found a pair of the rare White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant among the more common Black-billed. It was getting dark and we continued to Celendin and were now back to schedule. 24 dec – Early start for Hacienda Limon. Two Curve-billed Tinamous were standing on the road and we had gripping views of one on the way down. I spotted a half-built nest of a Thornbird and stopped the car and we bagged the Chestnut-backed Thornbird from inside the car! Soon we also found several singing Gray-backed Inca-Finches and also Marañon Thrushes among more common birds.