Best of the American West on my mind toc Cuba Travel 4 8

6 4-5 Ask Indagare... Next Stop 6-7  Style Interview with Kim Yeshi Wyoming and national parks in Montana, 12 8-11 Itinerary Arizona and Colorado, but the trips that stand Classic Provence out are the ones with family. Last year my sisters 12-13  Food/Wine and I celebrated one of our major birthdays in Venice: Off the Beaten Path Sedona at Mii Amo. A few years ago, I brought 14-17 Travel Spotlight my own children to Montana and Wyoming. We 18 Melissa’s Finds: Jaipur white-water rafted, tried to fly-fish and toured 18-19  Far-Flung Yellowstone, where we saw buffalo and Old 14 Surfing in Samoa Twelve-year-old Melissa Faithful. We sat around the campfire, just as I Biggs Bradley (she’s the 20-22 Escape did for the first time at their age, and roasted one on the top right) on Forte dei Marmi her family’s rafting trip; marshmallows while marveling at the night sky. 20 and with her own kids, in 23  Spa/Wellness I remember my daughter commenting one Montana in 2009. Spain’s Coastal Spa night how strange it was that the stars and moon were such a big part of our evenings in 24-25 The Buzz London Loosens Up his year when we polled our members the West. “I mean, we are underneath the same on where they most wanted to travel in sky every night,” she said, “but here we pay at- 26-27 Artist Spotlight T2015, the American West topped the list. tention to it.” Yes, I thought, because far from Bhutan’s Natural Splendor 30-58 Destination Report Although the term can encompass everything the city lights and distractions, we can see it all 24 from coastal California up to British Columbia, so much more clearly. I think that same vast iso- 30 American West for this issue we have focused on the American lation allows us to focus in the purest possible West of national parks and cowboy mythology. way on our family and our deepest wishes. That I took my first family trip out west at the age is a large part of the beauty for me of the Ameri- The World of Indagare of twelve (photo above), when my grandmother can West. It is also a place that crystalizes things About Indagare Bookings Insider Trips Indagare comes from the At Indagare you can Insider Trips are special brought her three sons and their broods to Ida- for me. As one of my favorite authors, Wallace Latin word that means to research ideas for a trip on journeys designed exclu- ho for a rafting trip down the Salmon River. We Stegner, wrote, “Something will have gone out of seek, scout, discover. Indagare our site and consult with a specialist sively for Indagare members. With Travel is a high-end travel company on the phone or by email to create, their insider access, mapped-out flew to a remote part of the park and hiked for us as a people if we ever let the remaining wil- with robust online editorial content refine or expand your itinerary. Our itineraries and exciting immersion in two days to the river. It was the first time I had derness be destroyed. . . . We simply need that and a boutique in-house travel Bookings Team can help you with far-flung destinations, the trips offer agency. We travel, we write, and we something as simple as a hotel room members a rich and rewarding way slept in a tent, ate meals cooked over a campfire wild country available to us, even if we never do plan memorable journeys for our or as complex as creating a multi- to explore the world. Upcoming des- or understood the awe that true wilderness can more than drive to its edge and look in.” members. To learn about our travel stop itinerary. We also have special tinations include Bhutan, Cuba and community, visit www.indagare.com rates and amenities at hundreds of Myanmar. For more information, inspire. We didn’t cross paths with anyone else or call 212-988-2611. Annual properties. Email bookings@ call 646-963-2242 or email for days, and my cousins and I forged ties and membership rates begin at $325. indagare.com or call 212-988-2611. [email protected].

shared memories that bind us still. Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or Since then I have visited dude ranches in special amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol.

2 3 ask indagare… Next Stop: Iceland, Budapest, José Ignacio Love the glamorous scene of St. Barth’s but want something more off the beaten track for your next beach escape? The Indagare Team recaps great destinations due to become the next classics.

here’s nothing like setting out to explore major European destination, but Budapest is a place that’s new to you, and possibly often passed over. Those who love the German Tuncovering your next favorite spot. Here, capital for its art scene will find a similar buzz Indagare offers up-and-coming alternatives in the Hungarian city, which, although smaller to three classic destinations, offering the same and rougher around the edges, is experiencing a fundamental experiences—be it adventure, city cultural awakening. A new art-minded concept living or beach time—but less touristed. hotel that doubles as a gallery, trendy ruin bars and the gentrifying Jewish Quarter make Buda- Just Back From: Patagonia pest one of Europe’s most dynamic destinations Next Stop: Iceland for a long weekend. Destination Requirements: Extreme Indagare Tip: Embark on a tour of Communist adventure; jaw-dropping landscapes history before settling in at a ruin bar for drinks.

Chilean and Argentine Patagonia—with their Just Back From: St. Barth’s lunar landscapes, myriad opportunities for Next Stop: José Ignacio hiking and dozens of glaciers—are must-visits Destination Requirements: Sun, sand, for adventure travelers. Those who have already shopping; late beachfront lunches that conquered the challenging terrain should stretch into early evening consider Iceland as their new frontier. Only a five-hour flight from the U.S., the island nation St. Barth’s has long attracted yachters, a who’s offers an even wider range of activities, includ- who of the New York social scene, sophisticated ing rappelling into a dormant volcano, scuba families looking for a chic beach escape and diving between tectonic plates and relaxing in groups of friends renting villas. The posh Carib- natural geothermic baths. bean island is just as much fun on a repeat visit Clockwise from top left: Iceland’s Northern Lights and sunset; alfresco dining in Budapest; a beach Indagare Tip: Contact the Indagare Bookings as on the first, but the Uruguayan beach town of club in José Ignacio; graffiti-laden doors in Budapest Team to organize a stay at a mobile tented camp José Ignacio provides all the crucial ingredients to see the Northern Lights. for a fun-filled holiday while giving visitors a sense that they’ve arrived before the masses. A ; la susana t Just Back From: Berlin destination of choice for the Argentinian elite, ar Next Stop: Budapest the laid-back spot boasts a bevy of design- Destination Requirements: Edgy minded hotels, activities like polo and surfing contemporary-art scene; an underground and a buzzy scene, with dinners—which start no bar culture and layers of history earlier than 10 p.m.—often turning into early mornings gallivanting with friends. eway to i celand; raq p t eway Both Berlin and Budapest contain enough Indagare Tip: Gather a group of ten or more for historical attractions to fill an entire visit with lunch at La Caracola, a happening restaurant touring, but the two cities are also linked by a that can only be reached by boat (and only ac-

credit T K The Off i c al ga youthful, fun-loving vibe. Berlin is already a cepts large parties).

4 5 style Q&A with Kim Yeshi Emma Pierce interviews one of the Indagare Souk vendors, Kim Yeshi, the Franco-American founder of Tibet-based accessories brand Norlha.

Clockwise from top left: a Tibetan landscape; a local family; villagers horseback riding; a tent at Norden Camp; the interior of two tents

though she has lived western Tibet. The sustainable Norden Camp, a boutique we married, foreigners were now have a steady income that the ages at which locals usually all over the world— brand employs nomads and tented hotel in rural Tibet. The prohibited from visiting Tibet, gets recycled back into the marry. Most come to us with Aincluding Paris, New villagers, creating jobs and minimalist but luxe accom- so we moved to a Tibetan community and, in turn, gives no skills, and some don’t even York and India—Kim Yeshi developing the local economy. modations offer the ideal base community in India in 1979. others opportunities. We foster know how to read or write. feels a profound connection Norlha debuted in Paris in from which to explore the wil- I traveled to Tibet for the first a healthy work environment to Tibet, a region she began 2008 and has supplied major derness and such experiences time in 2006 and now hold a by providing our workers with How has Norlha grown since studying in her early adult- fashion houses like Balmain. as visiting a monk’s house. Chinese visa that allows me to two meals a day, and we try to it was founded? hood. Yeshi became a Buddhist Yeshi’s daughter Dechen Indagare sits down with Kim travel back and forth. incorporate as many nutritious We started with 30 workers at age 17, obtained her masters lives full time in Zorge Ritoma, to discuss Tibet, yak wool and elements as possible. and now have about 120. They in Buddhism and moved to where the yak population her team of artisans. How does Norlha support are all experts at their craft, so India in 1979 with her Tibetan outnumbers the inhabitants the local community? What is the demographic of we have been able to expand husband. In 2005, convinced almost ten to one, and Yeshi What made you study Bud- It’s not easy to move into a Norlha’s employees? our product line. We also that yak wool could be used herself visits often. A Chinese dhism and Tibet? close-knit community, but All the factory workers were recently launched a photogra- in luxury products, Yeshi sent visa is all travelers need to I guess you could call it karma. my daughter had established previously herders. Some were phy section. Recently, a friend two of her children to Tibet visit the village, since it falls I was very young when I be- a life there, and importantly, forced to stop herding because came from Hong Kong and set to collect material for testing. outside central Tibet, which came a Buddhist, and Tibetan we came with the purpose they did not have enough us up with the right lights and Her hunch proved accurate: is governed by China and very Buddhism was particularly of building a workshop. The animals or had too few family taught us how to use photogra- the wool was plush and warm. difficult to access. Norlha’s attractive. Meeting Buddhists, locals were thankful for the members to look after them. phy equipment properly. Two years later, she opened products are now available and then my husband, who is employment opportunity. We employ a mix of men and

the Norlha workshop in Zorge through the Indagare souk, from central Tibet, enhanced I believe wholeheartedly in women, some as young as 17 To read more and to shop for Norlha

Ritoma, a village in north- and Yeshi recently opened this attraction for me. When n o rlha; rden ca mp n o rlha; rden ca mp sustainability. Our employees (for girls) and 19 (for boys), goods, go to www.indagare.com

6 7 itinerary Classic Provence Twenty-five years after Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence was published, the bucolic region remains beloved. Indagare’s Allison Reiber lays out a first-time visit itinerary.

hen the American traveler considers rental car at the station. Your first stop will be the South of France, Provence is of- inside Avignon’s city ramparts, at La Mirande Wten eclipsed by its glitzy neighbor, the (www.la-mirande.fr), a former family palace Côte d’Azur. Provence could be the grand but that has been beautifully repurposed as a hotel creaky old house next door to shiny new con- set against the Palais des Papes, where the structions. Continuing the metaphor, Provence popes resided during the 14th century. While at may not have a perfectly manicured lawn or La Mirande, be sure to take advantage of the ex- garage full of the hottest sports cars, but it cau- cellent cooking classes (including ones tailored tiously modernizes as needed. All who pass turn to children) given in its cozy kitchen. Avignon and marvel at this beautiful piece of the past is a charming and walkable town and is an and hope that it remains standing forever. ideal launching pad for day trips to the nearby Provence is wonderfully suited to a wide villages that make Provence so special. Keep an range of travelers: foodies, wine enthusiasts, eye on the market calendar, and plan your trips cyclists, hikers, bon vivants, history buffs, art accordingly—the concierge can advise—as those t eau h ot els c o llec tio n

lovers and romantics. It’s best seen by car, and are the best times to see a village come to life. , cha some of your most rewarding hours may be One convenient destination is Châteauneuf- spent on the country roads, winding through du-Pape, the star wine region of the Southern orchards, lavender fields and towns so tiny you Rhone Valley. Although you can certainly plot find yourself wondering where the locals buy an enjoyable day on your own (stopping at any their groceries. Then you stumble on one of cave marked with a dégustation sign), an insider the bountiful morning marchés, purveyors of guide can open doors typically closed to the not mere groceries but of artisanal pâtés, local public while a second guide takes the kids on . lebeau; la mi rande; m as de p e i n t produce and freshly dug truffles. a tour of the ruins, which are both historically In crafting a weeklong itinerary through significant and excellent for climbing. Provence, you’ll soon find that the permutations If in the area on a Thursday or a Sunday, are endless. The region is sprawling and varied, drive to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for its world-re- Clockwise from top left: a room at Domaine de la Baume; from the dramatic Var, to the bucolic Luberon, nowned antiques market, whose offerings range market treats; the shaded terrace at Mas de Peint and its to the cities layered in history from the medi- from proper antiques to French bric-a-brac. exterior; a La Mirande chef at work; breakfast at Mas de Peint eval times through the days of Van Gogh and The beautiful St.-Rémy-de-Provence is also Cézanne. Whether as a couple or with the kids well worth the trip. The birthplace of Nostrada- in tow, you can have a taste of three iconic ex- mus and, much later, an inspiration for Van periences: town, country and a bit of adventure, Gogh, St.-Rémy now bustles with cafés, shops while leaving plenty of time for long lunches and some great bistros. The fascinating nearby spent admiring the beautiful countryside. archaeological site of Glanum, dating to 6 B.C., showcases a Roman town center, including Avignon & Environs baths and a forum. The cultural hub of Arles, Whether or not you’re beginning your trip slightly shabby but thoroughly endearing, offers with a few days in Paris, a simple way to dive ancient ruins as well as the brand-new Fonda- into Provence is to ride two-and-a-half hours tion Vincent Van Gogh, which pays homage to

by train from Paris to Avignon, and pick up a the artist’s time in this city. shu, l. branda i s, p b o uches du rh ne to ur i s m ard; d om a de la bau e, T. credit T K

8 9 Clockwise: Avignon; Fondation Vincent Van Clockwise: a room at La Bastide de Moustiers; the terrace at Gogh; a suite and the kitchen at Mas de Peint Mas de Peint; a chocolate tart at La Bastide de Moustiers a Arles & Environs to a hilltop from which the view of your destina- the landscape becomes mountainous and wild. space for kids to run through, and the pool is From Avignon, the paths for couples and fami- tion, La Bastide de Gordes (www.bastide-de- A highlight is the spectacular national park, the guaranteed to be a hit after excursions. lies diverge. Those traveling with kids will want gordes.com), built on the ramparts of the old Gorges du Verdon, known as the Grand Canyon Couples will wend their way to Domaine de to visit the wonderful family-owned French medieval town, is breathtaking. Because Gordes of France. Here you can choose to be as ener- la Baume (www.domaine-delabaume.com), a dude ranch Le Mas de Peint (www.masdepeint. has been named among the most beautiful vil- getic as you like, taking part in such activities as dreamy former private estate with 13 tastefully com), a perfect base for exploring the Camargue, lages of France, you will most likely hear some white-water rafting, kayaking and rock climb- designed rooms, located 45 minutes by car from a magical region where white horses and inky English interspered with French at the morning ing, or visiting the famous towns of Tourrettes, La Bastide de Moustiers (those not staying black bulls dot the marshy landscape. Kids and market. Rest assured, that doesn’t make the Fayence and Callian, or tasting wines in Bandol. should be sure to stop there for lunch). The their parents will enjoy jeep rides through coun- market any less charming or the countryside Families will want to check in to La Bastide Domaine is the perfect place to live your French

tryside that’s part Outer Banks, part Wuthering less spectacular. Given the Bastide’s central g o gh; m as de p e i n t tio n v i ncen t van de Moustiers (www.bastide-moustiers.com), country-home fantasy for a few days, taking Heights, to see flamingos and salt flats. Le Mas location, you can park the car while you explore a simple but sophisticated and very charming rambling walks or horseback riding through the de Peint is warm and welcoming, offering a the village on foot. Or you can just enjoy the property practically inside the national park. A countryside, picnicking on the grounds or snug- swimming pool and some extraordinary food. hotel’s beautiful terrace, lounge by the pool or Maison Alain Ducasse, the food is fantastic and gling up with a book in one of several cozy and Couples will travel eastward to Gordes, a relax at the spa. an important part of the experience. The terrace impeccably decorated living rooms. You’ll be t eaux h ot els c o llec tio n; la bas ti de mo us ers, pi erre ne tt small “perched” village of only 2,000 inhabit- affords views of the valley that are stunning, and perfectly content to stay put for a few days. , cha ants. Driving up and down narrow winding The Var Region children are invited to interact with the chefs A good final stop for both couples and families roads through beautiful pastures that in June and the staff as they pick vegetables and herbs For more recommendations, visit www.indagare.com. to u t france, dan i el p h ll ip e; f o nda m as de p e i n t and July are smothered with lavender, you come is the beautiful Var region. As you drive north, a for meals each day. The grounds provide ample Members can contact us for help with trip planning.

10 11 food/wine

Venice: Off the

Beaten Path from the Dorona varietal, its original beauty, complete Contributor Claire Hennessy a native to the Venetian with huge, colorful sails. Once visits the largely undiscovered Lagoon known since the 15th aboard, you can peer down Venissa, offering a lovely break century but largely forgot- to the lower deck and admire from ever-enchanting but utterly ten until about 15 years ago, the beautiful dining table, set chaotic Venice. when Gianluca Bisol, Venissa’s with elegant white linens and owner, discovered some gorgeous flowers, while Stoppa abandoned vines and used prepares a multicourse gour- them to establish a vineyard. met meal in the teeny kitchen Acclaimed by critics, Dorona is just behind the table. produced in very small quanti- The lagoon continues ties and sold in limited-edition to evolve. In the works for Murano-glass bottles. Each 2016 on Burano is an albergo has a number etched into the diffuso—a decentralized hotel glass by hand and a label made (an increasingly popular con- of gold leaf. cept in Italy), whose reception Just across the wooden desk and breakfast area are footbridge from Mazzorbo in the main structure but the lies the Technicolor island of majority of whose rooms are Burano, known for lacemaking located in converted houses. and its rows of vibrantly hued In the final planning phases houses. Also a stone’s throw at Venissa are cooking classes Clockwise from top left: the hotel and away is the fascinating island with grandmothers from vineyard; an artichoke dish; harvest- ing grapes; the dining room; appetizers of Torcello, whose population around the lagoon who will including grilled octopus; a guest room has dwindled since the 10th teach participants to make tra- century from between 10,000 ditional Native Venice recipes. and 30,000 to an official count Contact Indagare’s bookings ative Venice” is the The six guest rooms are airy a Michelin-starred restaurant into soft shells and quickly of 9 today. Torcello is home to team for assistance planning a term for the small and decorated with beautiful as well as the more casual throw back the rest), rare algae the cathedral of Santa Maria visit. venissa.it Nislands in the Venetian simplicity: wooden floors and Osteria Contemporanea. The that is fresh, crispy and palate Assunta, which contains the Lagoon. Mazzorbo, one of furniture in natural tones, with fine-dining restaurant adheres cleansing and a huge variety of earliest mosaics in Venice, pre- Getting there from Venice: these magical isles, is home to a touch of color. A love of the to the farm-to-table philoso- fresh produce from the garden dating those of St. Mark’s. Take the number 12 vaporetto the Venissa estate, a property lagoon is evident everywhere phy, not as a nod to interna- located directly next to the Visitors who prefer to stay line from Fondamente Nove consisting of a hotel, winery, in such details as the bright- tional trends but thanks to restaurant. It is not uncom- on the water can opt for an toward Burano and get off at gardens and two restaurants. hued room keys, each in the the lagoon’s immense bounty. mon to see a chef run from the incredible culinary voyage on Mazzorbo. You can also take a You are charmed by Venissa shape of a different island. Among the ingredients diners tti a mio ne tto ; tti a mio ne tto kitchen into the garden during a bragozzo, a traditional flat- water taxi. , m a , m a even before you step through Although the water offers can savor are amazing, unique t t dinner service to gather more bottom wooden sailboat, with its unassuming doors, greeted To read Indagare’s full destina- an abundance for travelers to shellfish (during a boat excur- of an ingredient. extremely talented chef and tion report on Venice and beyond, by the hotel’s pink façade, see and experience, finding a sion you can watch the local Then there is the wine. bragozzo owner Mauro Stoppa. including staff-scouted recommen- green shutters and white flow- dations on where to stay, eat, shop reason to leave Venissa can be fisherman pick up crabs, de- Venissa is known above all His boat, the Eolo, dates to and explore, visit www.indagare. ven i ssa w ne res o r i a ve tto re tti francesc o gal iti ; s i lv ers tumbling out of planters. difficult. The estate offers both cide in seconds which will molt ven i ssa w ne res o r for the white wine it produces 1946 and has been restored to com and contact us to book a trip.

12 13 travel spotlight Melissa’s Finds: Jaipur The so-called Pink City is ground zero for crafts and commerce in Rajasthan, offering visitors an immersion in the dazzling riches of traditional India. Indagare’s founder Melissa Biggs Bradley uncovers the city’s latest, wave-making openings.

s Rajasthan’s shopping capital and home Indian vegetarian specialties, especially the fine to many expat designers and craftsmen, Rajasthani pastries and desserts, many of which AJaipur is constantly offering new spins are topped with a flourish of gold or silver leaf. on Indian treasures. Some of my favorite recent discoveries include a small palace hotel with a 51 Shades of Pink modern twist, chic dining rooms, cool concept The most delicious-looking dining room to stores and a special textile dealer. open in India this year bears the cheeky name Clockwise from top 51 Shades of Pink, where custom hot-pink left: a suite at Sujan Rajmahal; the Amber Where to Stay wallpaper plays with familiar Moghul archways. Fort; Hawa Mahal; 51 Many travelers to Rajasthan allocate the most Massive crystal chandeliers and long beveled Shades of Pink; finds from Idli; tunics from time on their itinerary to Jaipur so that they can mirrors up the glamour quotient, while dining Jaipur Modern explore the riches of the region at their leisure. chairs with Arabesque lines add to the harem A regal new hotel provides another reason to feel. The restaurant serves a creative Continen- extend a stay in the bewitching city. tal menu, but the setting is the draw. Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Road; 91-141-263-04077 Suján Rajmahal Palace Among the Pink City’s most exciting reincar- The Collonade nations is that of the Suján Rajmahal, a royal Occupying what was originally the verandah guesthouse that is now a gorgeous boutique of the Rajmahal Palace, the Collonade dining hotel with lovely restaurants. Princess Diya room features polo-themed wallpaper as well Kumari of Jaipur tasked well-known designer reproductions of vintage Osler chandeliers, Adil Ahmad with giving the historic bones of original pink marble floors and views over the the 18th-century mansion a modern hipness. palace gardens. Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Taking inspiration from the City Palace, he Road; 91-141-263-04077 created dozens of original wallpapers and dedicated each of the 14 suites to a past guest, The Orient Occident like Lord Mountbatten, Queen Elizabeth II and The most formal of the restaurants at the new Jackie Kennedy. The result is a flamboyant and Suján Rajmahal, the Orient Occident serves fashionable property that is run more like a exquisite Indian cuisine in a dining room that grand country house than a hotel. Nonresidents evokes the majesty of the Raj royals. Its high can come for drinks in the Polo Bar or a meal coffered ceilings have deep red panels that ac- in one of the three dining rooms: 51 Shades of centuate the rich colors of the wallpaper, with Pink, the Collonade and the Orient Occident. red Moghul flowers.Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Read Indagare’s review. Road; 91-141-263-04077

Where to Eat Samode Haveli Indian cuisine in Jaipur can be exceptional, with The heritage hotel Samode Haveli, long a complex spices and subtle flavors. Rather than favorite of European visitors, has moved its

credit T K S ujan R aj m ahal Palace ordering Continental dishes, it’s best to request main restaurant into a new wing overlooking

14 15 travel spotlight

the gardens. The main dining room features crystal chandeliers, marble floors, heavy wooden furniture and ancestral treasures, including Raj portraits. Gangapole; 91-141-263-2407

The Kitchen at Jaipur Modern This modern, airy café, located in the annex to the lovely new boutique Jaipur Modern, serves salads and Italian dishes, including pizza, as well as cold-pressed juices. The chef works with organic farmers to source fresh, sustain- ably grown ingredients. 51 Sardar Patel Marg, Dhuleshwar Garden, C Scheme; 91-141-411-2000

Left to right: details at Sujan Rajmahal; a tea break Where to Shop at the Cloud Palace; Tokree’s owner, Sanyukta Jaipur is a world-class destination for precious Singh; courtyard dining at Samode Haveli gems and beautifully crafted items. Every trip reveals new sources for pashmina shawls, an- items. There are hand-blocked tunics, embroi- pashminas and tie-dyed pillows. Kanota Bagh, Princess Diya Kumari Foundation tique silver tribal jewelry, sandals and modern dered shawls and the owners’ signature jewelry Narain Singh Road; 91-141-257-0400 Princess Diya Kumari started her foundation in takes on traditional handcrafts—proof of what a line, which includes brass and silver collections, 2013 to give underprivileged women employ- thriving artisanal culture exists here. as well as vintage furniture and Indian artwork. Aashka ment. Today more than 65 women create crafts 9 Yashwant Place, Ajmer Road; 91-141-402-7979 The pet project of the Princess Bhargavi Kumari at the Royal Family’s Badal Mahal, or Cloud Jaipur Modern Mewar of Udaipur, the boutique Aashka sells Palace and a cooperative near Ranthambore. Opened in 2014, Jaipur Modern is the labor of Tokree fashion, jewelry and housewares. The airy shop Their simple fabric products, sold from a small love of Yash Agarwal and Maximiliano Modesti, Sanyukta Singh opened Tokree to sell the ac- is decorated with antique mirrors and furniture stall near the giant silver urns in the City Palace, who champion “modern Indian craftsmanship,” cessories and fashion that she designs and has that has been whitewashed to create a more range from children’s frocks and notebooks to a melding of Italian sensibility with Indian ar- local cooperatives manufacture. Look for hand- contemporary look. Especially tempting are the cloth bags and fabric animals. It is possible to tisanal items. The owners work with producers blocked tunics, quilted jackets and palazzo lovely printed shawls, shift dresses, linens and visit their workshop by appointment. in India to create products with a Western twist. pants with lovely edging, knit shawls with me- leather sandals. Equestrians can find everything The linens and pillows, for instance, have an tallic threadwork, one-of-a-kind jewelry and an- from cocktail napkins with horseshoe motifs Read Indagare’s destination report on Jaipur and other areas of Rajasthan on www.indagare.com and contact abstract design and contemporary color palette, tiques from around Rajasthan. Alsisar Haveli, and polo shirts to saddles. Kanota Bagh, Narain our bookings team for assistance planning a trip to India: and the blouses and dresses are cut in an avant- Sansar Chandra Road; 91-977-220-1320 Singh Road; 91-141-256-9854 [email protected]; 212-988-2611. garde style. 51 Sardar Patel Marg, Dhuleshwar Garden, C Scheme; 91-141-411-2000 Idli Eccentric French designer Thierry Journo, who Special Access Shopping Indagare can arrange a visit with an antiques dealer who is known across India for his private collection of Teatro Dhora has lived and worked in Jaipur for years, opened museum quality antique textiles, some of which are for sale. Academics and museum curators seek him out, and For shoppers who want to browse a range of this boutique in the Narain Niwas Palace. a visit to this showroom is akin to a crash course in textiles. Among the interesting facts one will learn: paisley de- signs actually come from the Moghul mango style of weaving—the teardrop shape was a mango—and the design high-end Indian crafts but prefer the atmo- Inspired by the vibrant Rajasthan palette and was dubbed paisley only after French manufacturer Jacquard started producing the patterns in the Scottish town sphere of Barney’s to an Indian market, Teatro his Parisian couture background, Journo sells of Paisley in the early 1800s. Highlights from the dealer’s collection include 400-year-old Ikat pieces and antique gold brocades, including one made on wool for the nizams of Golconda. The emir of Qatar spent millions here Dhora is the place to go. The boutique mixes Western designs that have a distinct Indian amassing his collection, and one could while away hours ogling masterpieces.

Indian and expat designer goods with vintage exoticism, like silk caftans, cotton dresses, ikat S ujan R aj m ahal Palace i S a mo de H avel

16 17 far-flung

Surfing in amoa draws many of its intrepid visitors Polynesia but home to just 42,000 people, is from New Zealand, of which it was a more pristine, remote and hard to get to. Think Samoa Scolony until 1962, and Australia, the of the difference between developed Tahiti and South Pacific being to Kiwis and Aussies what more serene Bora Bora. A 45-minute ferry ride Samoa is one of those places whose very name evokes the Caribbean is to New Yorkers. Aside from its from Upolu, Savai’i is worth the extra effort. an exotic, end-of-the-earth distinctive Pacific Islander culture, the nation Eden. Indagare contributor is known for its exceptional, uncrowded waves. 4. Aganoa Lodge is a game changer. Ann Abel reports. These have been a major pull for the surf set, Keith and Lanuola Martin bought a traditional, which is also attracted to Samoa’s exoticism. simple resort on Savai’i in 2003 and created the Far-flung locations, adventure, roughing it Aganoa Beach Retreat. A decade later, the Mar- and exploration have long been hallmarks of the tins brought the property up to luxury-traveler sport, and surfers flock here as they once did to standards and reopened it in early 2015. The Waikiki and Bali. A broader swath of interna- eight beach fales housing the accommodations tional visitors have recently succumbed to the have open sides and outdoor showers, and have country’s laid-back appeal, and there are a few been given a Robinson Crusoe–chic look, with new luxury resorts. Here are seven things to canopied wooden beds. The lack of AC is not a

Clockwise from top: an island know while planning your trip there. problem, as breezes and fans keep guests cool at scenic; sunset surf; a room at night, and during the day—well, the water, with Aganoa; the pristine beach 1. There’s more than pretty beaches. its extraordinary surf breaks, is steps away. The The point breaks are exceptional, the water is lodge also stocks kayaks and snorkeling gear. gin clear and bathwater warm, and the beaches might as well be made of powdered sugar. But 5. You should know how to surf. there’s a lot to explore on land, including the Unless you’re a fairly accomplished surfer, you cascading Afu Afu waterfall and the Alofaaga probably aren’t ready for the marquee breaks at Blow Holes, where waves propel water—and Aganoa or elsewhere on the islands. Not only sometimes coconuts—through gaps in the volca- are they big, but the breaks are over rocks down nic rock and hundreds of feet into the air. below, so you must know how to fall correctly. Aganoa has solid instructors and another spot 2. The culture is fascinating and unique. that’s friendlier for surfing novices, but the own- Although now predominately Christian, people ers strongly suggest you get a few lessons under still follow fa’a Samoa, the traditional Samoan your belt before you come. way, performing ceremonies, deferring to village chiefs, often living communally and celebrating 7. Getting there is not that hard rituals with lively, unusual dances. Fiji Airways operates flights from Honolulu that take less than six hours. There are also flights 3. The lay of the land is important. from Sydney (five hours) and Auckland (three Samoa consists of two main islands and eight and a half hours). The best time to go is the dry smaller ones. Upolu is the most densely popu- season, which runs April through October. lated, most touristed and home to the inter- national airport as well as two new Sheraton Members can contact Indagare to help planning a trip to

agan o a l dge, p egasusl dges.c om ; sa mo to ur i s m b ard hotels. Savai’i, one of the largest islands in Samoa by emailing [email protected].

18 19 escape

Forte dei Marmi The former fortress town is uniquely positioned between a dramatic mountain range of white marble and the glistening Tyrrhenian Sea. Indagare’s Sasha Feldman reports on the best of the summer resort.

oble families from Principe ed by gray hues. Villa Grey is Tuscany and northern Located one block from located on the main road that NItaly, made wealthy the sea and two from town, the runs parallel to the shoreline, by the maritime trade, started Principe offers modern luxury, so it’s close to the shore but coming to Forte dei Marmi for making it a top choice for glo- also to traffic. Rooms, many of their summer holidays in the betrotters from Europe, Russia which have private balconies, Clockwise from top left: Lido beach; marble quarries; 19th century. They have since and the Middle East. There is either face the back garden, the Augustus pool; a family at the beach; the pool at the Principe; a suite at the Augustus been followed by fashionable a lovely pool and poolside bar, with views of the Apuan Alps world travelers. a beautiful Egoista Spa and in the distance, or overlook an excellent fitness room. The a wide stretch of beach. The STAY hotel’s 29 spacious rooms all hotel lacks many of the ameni- Augustus Hotel & Resort have glass-enclosed marble ties offered by a five-star hotel, Of the town’s many fine prop- bathrooms and parquet floor- such as a pool or gym, and the erties, the old-school, family- ing. Although none have sea front-desk manager doubles friendly Augustus feels most views, most accommodations as concierge, but the staff is like a resort. overlook the grounds and helpful and professional. Read The sprawling property neighboring villas or face the Indagare’s review. comprises three buildings— white-capped Apuan Alps. the main hotel, La Nave and One block from the hotel is the EAT Augustus Lido—and seven Dalmazia Beach Club. Tables Seafood is at the heart of Forte private villas, set two streets at the club’s buzzy restaurant dei Marmi’s cuisine. For its back from the beach (no hotels are set on an open-air veranda size, the town has an exciting in Forte de Marmi are actually resting directly on the sand. number of great restaurants, on the beach). The lush oasis The hotel also has its own none of which are stuffy, mak- also includes a hedge-enclosed luxury yacht available for ing the dining scene fun. pool, another family-friendly charter. Read Indagare’s hotel pool nearer the beach, an inte- review. Bagno Dalmazia Beach rior dining courtyard, a newly Restaurant redone gym and a spa. Villa Grey The Principe’s beach club The accommodations vary This contemporary 19-room boasts one of the buzziest, widely in style, ranging from villa-style property, for- most elegant restaurants in

e; v. m enk o v t s; p r i nc ip e; v. rooms outfitted with brown merly a private home, offers a town. The menu features local leather and orange furniture to boutique-hotel experience with Italian specialties with an em- nautical-themed suites. stylish accommodations in a phasis on fresh seafood. 18 Via Read Indagare’s review. contemporary design dominat- Arenile; 39-0584-809-96

Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the

credit T K augus t us h ot els & res o r properties with the Indagare Plus symbol, including Four Seasons Preferred and Amex Platinum & Centurion.

20 21 escape spa/wellness

(Left to right) A room at the Principe; bikes for exploring the resort

L’Orsa Maggiore up afternoons at the beach Day Trip: Pisa This chic restaurant resembles with a variety of cultural, his- The touristy but significant a well-designed beach bunga- toric and culinary adventures. Pisa is most famous for its low, with wood-plank floors, Leaning Tower but is also canvas chairs and pops of blue Day Trips: Pietrasanta home to many other churches throughout the covered and Known as the City of the and examples of Roman and Spain’s Coastal Spa alfresco areas. 29 Viale Achille Artists, this Tuscan town is Renaissance architecture. Sexy design meets restorative healing at Sha Wellness Clinic, a retreat where medical Franceschi; 39-0584-822-19 home to artists, sculpture Drive time: 30 minutes. treatments are as common as spa services, writes Indagare’s Emma Pierce. studios and monuments, plus Bistrot art galleries and museums. Carrara Marble Quarries ou’ve heard it before: illness strikes, the belief that you can fight illness by avoiding This family-run, Michelin- Indagare’s Bookings Team Located in the Apuan Alps, and where modern medicine fails, a “high-impact” foods—like potatoes, red meat starred restaurant is one of can provide introductions to this town used to house the Yrevamped diet and shift towards whole- and dairy—which stress the body, and instead the most popular in Forte specialized guides and assist workers at the marble quar- body wellness succeed. The story behind Sha emphasizing “low-impact” ones. Guests have dei Marmi, serving excellent with itinerary planning. Drive ries. Some of ancient Rome’s Wellness Clinic is no different. Alfredo Bataller a nutrition evaluation upon arrival and while Versilian dishes from two time: 15 minutes most significant buildings and Parietti struggled with digestive issues for calories are restricted, the cuisine rivals that of wood-fired ovens.14 Via della sculptures (such as the Panthe- decades, and when he was diagnosed with colon a Michelin-starred restaurant. Sha’s programs Repubblica; 39-0584-888-79 Day Trip: Lucca on and Michelangelo’s David) cancer in 2000, he turned to natural remedies vary in intensity, ranging from ones suitable for The ancient town of Lucca, were made from its marble. in lieu of the drug treatments. Astonished by his first-timers to sessions for seasoned vets. The Trattoria Tre Stelle founded by the Etruscans, Drive time: 30 minutes. recovery after switching to a macrobiotic diet, rejuvenation programs offer a tasting menu Located on one of the pedes- is famous for its fully intact Parietti began to dream of sharing the program of treatments, while other, longer stays are trian-only streets in town, this Renaissance-era city walls, Cinque Terre & Portofino with others through a spa-hotel-medical facility. individually tailored, with medical and nutrition famed spot offers a variety of which are now pedestrian An excursion by private motor Today Sha is a mainstay of the natural health consultations and a personalized health plan. Tuscan dishes. 6 Via Montauti promenades. It also contains launch is the best way to see movement, while also offering a stylish and Indagare Tip: Request an English-speaking Giovanni; 39-0584-802-20 many medieval and ancient the Cinque Terre, a rugged gourmet guest experience. Located on a hillside technician ahead of time. sights, including the ruins of portion of coastline compris- overlooking the Costa Blanca coastline, Sha wel- When: May-June and early fall (September- SEE & DO the amphitheater where Julius ing five villages known for comes guests with a sleek, Miami design and the October) when it’s sunny but not too hot. Forte dei Marmi is the perfect Caesar, Pompey and Crassus their colorful homes built into promise of pampering. But besides the state- How: Most major European cities have flights launching point for day trips affirmed their political alli- the cliff side, as well as the port of-the-art spa, Sha’s most distinctive attribute to Spain’s Alicante or Valencia, which are, re-

throughout the region. Break ance. Drive time: 30 minutes. town of Portofino. p r i nc ip e sha wellness cl i n c is its macrobiotic diet plan, which is based on spectively, 45 or 90 minutes by car from Sha.

22 23 the buzz

flair and is already a hit with London’s creative Kitty Fisher’s community. The lobby features low lighting and Located in Shepherd Market, Kitty Fisher’s is plush sofas and each of the 174 rooms is simple a youthful addition to Mayfair’s dining scene, yet stylish. which can be a touch formal. Chef Tomos Parry

Clockwise from top: There are excellent dining options, over- is renowned for crafting a simple menu that in- the Mondrian’s rooftop seen by Soho Hotel Group: Hubbard & Bell, a corporates only the freshest ingredients. Dishes bar; Hubbard & Bell; brunch at Blixen diner-style brasserie, the trendy Chicken Shop, like monkfish with blood oranges and monk’s downstairs, and Grind, popular for its Origin beard have impressed both food critics and coffee. Read Indagare’s review. locals. Note: the reservation line is open from 10 to 11 a.m. and 4 to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Where to Eat Friday. 10 Shepherd Market; 44-20-3302-1661 Blixen This European-style brasserie, located in the re- Where to Shop generated Spitalfields area, has grand interiors, Celestine Eleven with leather banquettes and terrazzo tiling ac- This concept store is a darling of London’s most cented by gleaming brass fittings and an elegant revered fashion editors. Run by former stylist bar. Its informal menu proffers everything from Tena Strok, Celestine Eleven is part carefully a Croque Madame to kale salad. 65A Brushfield curated fashion boutique, part holistic therapy Street; 44-20-7101-0093 center and part venue: the basement hosts pop- ups like yoga classes, supper clubs and book Street Feast London groups. 4 Holywell Lane; 44-20-7729-2987 Londoners have fallen hard and fast for market London Loosens Up halls, and Street Feast runs several of the best. House of Hackney Industrial-chic hotels, food markets hawking pork buns and BBQ, eclectic concept Each of its four venues (the one in Dalston is the Fashion mavens cross oceans to stock up on stores—following a trend that feels Brooklyn-esque, London is having a serious most established) is casual and chaotic while finds here, as this store in Shoreditch is well hipster moment. Indagare contributor Anna Hart investigates. remaining fun. Don’t miss Bleecker St. Burger, worth a pilgrimage. House of Hackney’s iconic the food stall of the moment, and perennial print collections are youthful and fun (the einvention is the theme in London this industrial design, Tom Dixon, is responsible favorite Smokstak ribs. Arrive before 7 p.m. or quirky Hackney Empire and Dalston Rose spring, with previously ignored neigh- for the décor, from the dramatic showstopper be prepared to wait. Hartwell Street, Dalston prints are modern-day classics), and almost Rborhoods attracting new interest and of a lobby to the spacious, light-filled spa and everything is made in Great Britain. 131–132 hotels and restaurants taking over onetime of- spacious gym. All 359 rooms (the best of which Duck and Waffle Shoreditch High Street; 44-20-7739-3901 fice spaces. Lighthearted food trends encourage boast river views) are sumptuous and stylish, Housed on the top floor of a commercial sky- self-indulgence, as does London’s latest concept decorated in plush gray with flashes of neon. scraper in the financial district, Britain’s highest Slow Food Market store, which, when not operating as a fashion There is also Dandelyan, the award-winning restaurant is a favorite with the city’s foodies as Open only on Sundays, the Rosewood Lon- emporium, hosts innovative pop-ups. cocktail bar and the gleaming restaurant, Sea much for the extraordinary 360-degree skyline don’s Slow Food Market (located in the hotel’s Containers, boasting a wood-fired grill. views as for its cuisine. The pan-European serene inner courtyard) hosts more than 30 Where to Stay Read Indagare’s review. menu emphasizes sustainable ingredients, food stalls purveying regional, in-season pro- Mondrian London but regulars know to not miss the (less-than- duce that has been responsibly harvested. It has Backed by Ian Schrager, the Mondrian London Hoxton Holborn healthy) house dish: a decadent duck confit rapidly won over local foodies as well as visitors. opened in late 2014 as a sleek city hotel in It might be just a short stroll from Covent Gar- topped with a fried duck egg and mustard Head here for a gloriously gluttonous afternoon.

Hackney, on the South Bank. The king of British den, but Hoxton has a decidedly East London h o s to n lb rn; mo ndr i an l nd n; bl xen maple syrup. 110 Bishopsgate; 44-20-3640-7310 252 High Holborn; 44-20-7781-8888

24 25 artist spotlight

Prayers Afloat September Fields and Prayer Flags

“This series of paint- ings depict nature and the Bhutanese land- scape. We traveled all Bhutan’s Natural Splendor over the country and Artist and Indagare member Susan Swartz recently traveled to the Himalayan witnessed abundant Kingdom of Bhutan on an Insider Trip. Here is her Bhutan Series, a five-piece unique topography. collection inspired by the nation’s vibrant native colors and otherworldly landscape. The paintings are inspired by the areas we visited, and each shows the colors of the different regions.”

Joy

“Bhutan September was inspired by the trees in the nation’s capital, Thimphu; Prayers Over Rice Fields and Rice Fields and Prayer Flags by the tiered rice terraces “I’ll never forget the raw of the Punakha Valley; beauty of the rugged Prayers Afloat by the mountains, especially iconic Tiger’s Nest, in

when juxtaposed with ar o by c omo ; a m ank ra Paro. The last paint- the calming waters and ing in the series, Joy,

multilayered green fields.” t z; u m a p reflects the overall spirituality and cul- ture of Bhutan.” t z; j im swar

To learn more about this artist and series, visit

susan swar www.susanswartz.com Prayers Over Rice Fields

26 27 credit TK

credit TK destination report American West The first big push came in the 1840s, when the promise of gold lured fortune- seekers and opportunists. These days, we recommend coming for the adventure of exploring magnificent landscapes. TheIndagare Travel team reports.

he essence of the West is the stuff of rope, fly-fish, white-water raft and pan for sap- romantic American lore—cowboys, phires (page 36). In the American Southwest, Tpioneer women and homesteading. The our favorite method of exploration is by car and remoteness, rough conditions and relative inde- foot, and we have rounded up the best road trips pendence from Eastern legal structures resulted and hikes through Arizona and Utah. in generations of strong, resilient people who Whether traveling as family, a couple or a blazed trails and formulated a philosophy all group of friends, a successful trip to this area of their own. Add to all that the influence of—and, the United States enables visitors to absorb the in some rare instances, partnerships with—the region’s rich history as well as the breathtaking Native Americans of the region, and you have a beauty of the mountains, plains, open sky, desert wholly unique—and incredibly special—culture. and red-rock formations. Although the area is The Wild West, a term that conjures up im- filled with hokey dude ranches, mock Western ages of pistol-toting outlaws and freewheeling towns and faux “cowboy experiences,” it also saloons, is such an integral part of the American offers truly special properties whose priority is story that even schoolchildren can recite tales providing an authentic understanding of the of such iconic figures as Buffalo Bill and Annie region’s culture. Oakley. Gazing at the region’s wide-open vistas, learn- In this issue, we present Indagare’s favorite ing the history of settlers and Native Americans spots to experience the West in the summer, and participating in activities like barrel racing, from towns at the bottom of box canyons (page hunting, story telling and campfire sing-alongs 40) or at the top of majestic mountains (page are likely to instill both a deeper understanding 42), to a resort in an abandoned mining town and love of country as well as an enhanced ap- (page 56) and ranches that teach guests how to preciation of America’s people.

Famous gunfighter and lawman Wild Bill Hickock was shot dead in 1876 while playing Book My Trip: The Indagare Advantage poker in Deadwood. We Know More… We Think More… We Care More… We Do More… We Get More… He died holding a pair Our team is con- We are frequent There’s no such Think of us as your We secure special of aces and a pair of stantly traveling, to travelers and we thing as a “best” advocates who go rates and amenities give you the most pool our knowledge hotel or destination. above and beyond at hundreds of prop- eights, all black, which relevant and up-to- and members’ feed- We customize all to ensure that each erties worldwide, has ever since been date recommenda- back to tweak the your trips based on trip is packed with including upgrades tions and itineraries. details of your trip. your preferences. special touches. and VIP treatment. called a “dead man’s Hiking Devil’s Garden in

hand.” Arches National Park credit T K There is no bookings fee for Indagare members. Contact us at 212-988-2611 or [email protected].

30 31 destination: lay of the land

In 1874, Joseph Glidden received a patent for his invention of barbed wire, an inexpen- sive, durable and effective fencing material, which opened the plains to more efficient agriculture and ranching.

A cabin at Dunton Hot Springs (left); Double Arch at Arches National Park

Lay of the Land Colorado of exploration, but a trip here can also be easily density and many national parks like Yellow- From Big Sky Montana and the stunning na- Along with Arizona, New Mexico and Utah, combined with visits to the Grand Canyon, Lake stone and Grand Teton, to name just two. The tional parks of Utah to the vertiginous peaks of Colorado is one of the states that come together Powell and Arizona’s red rock area. parks have been protected for so long that they Colorado and the red-rock mesas of Arizona, the in the Four Corners region. It is known as a can support a diverse array of wildlife. Grizzly American West holds some of the globe’s most winter destination (especially for East Coast Arizona bears, wolves and wolverines can be seen here, spectacular landscapes, sought out by outdoorsy travelers), thanks to such excellent ski resorts Used by many as a gateway to the Grand along with the usual suspects: bison, elk and travelers from around the world. as Aspen, Vail and Telluride, but summertime Canyon, Phoenix boasts some of the country’s moose. Jackson Hole is a star attraction, but the visits are equally rewarding (and less of a scene). most acclaimed spa and golf resorts, as well as a slow pace of life in the rest of the state offers an Montana For something entirely different, make your way burgeoning culinary scene. The great outdoors entirely different experience. Montana is the fourth-largest state in the U.S. (and it’s a long way) to Dunton Hot Springs, a are ever-present, even in the cityscapes, thanks but one of the least populous, with fewer than 1 restored ghost town with natural hot springs to the presence of looming mountains, like million residents. The vast open spaces inspire and an incredibly authentic sense of place. Camelback, and a gorgeous climate year-round. Indagare Plus Members wonder at the relatively untouched nature, and Sedona is most famous for red rock canyons. who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at much of Montana still looks as it did when Lew- Utah The area’s natural beauty definitely deserves the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol. is and Clark came through. The so-called Big Utah has five of the country’s most famous more attention than a quick drive-through en Indagare is also a Preferred Partner of Four Sky country is a perfect destination for families national parks, including Arches, Bryce and route to the Grand Canyon, which lies another Seasons Hotels & Resorts, so that members eager to experience the great outdoors from Zion. It is also another one of the country’s larg- two hours north. booking through Indagare receive preferred a base at one of the state’s acclaimed ranches. est states, so driving distances are significant. rates, special amenities and VIP treatment at the brand’s properties worldwide. We are Some travelers plan road trips to such national Moab, the city nearest Arches and Canyonlands, Wyoming also an American Express affiliate so can parks as Yellowstone and Glacier, while others is close to the Colorado state line. The glorious Wyoming is an outdoorsman’s paradise, thanks book Platinum and Centurion benefits. spend their days fly- and trout fishing. landscapes offer enough activities to fill weeks to its vast, sweeping landscapes, low population

32 33 destination: aspen

dizzying number of outdoor recreation EAT options can be found in and around Many of Aspen’s eateries rank with those in the AAspen in summer, including thousands world’s capitals. Menus tend to be healthy, but of miles of wilderness, 14,000-foot mountains the truffle fries at Ajax should not be missed. and white-water rivers and streams. Ajax Tavern STAY This perennial favorite serves meals on a patio Little Nell at the base of Aspen Mountain, where guests Aspen’s most pampering resort is set at regularly linger from lunch until dinner. 675 the mountain base and within walking distance East Durant Ave.; 970-920-4600 of downtown. With 92 guest rooms spread over four floors, it has the feel of a boutique hotel but Element 47 all the amenities of a large one. Contemporary Locals looking for an urban vibe flock to this décor in soothing hues of gray and beige create sleek, modern restuarant that features a sophis- an overall chic effect. Read our review. ticated menu. A hopping afternoon bar crowd comes for the local beers and deviled eggs. 675 Little Nell Residences East Durant Ave.; 970-920-6330 Aspen’s The spacious one- to four-bedroom Little Nell Residences offer service on par with that of Matsuhisa Haute Scene their sister hotel across the plaza, although their Nobu Matsuhisa brought his notable sushi and A favorite destination for style resembles cattle ranchers’ dream homes. Japanese cuisine to this patio on Main Street, sultans, senators, ski bums Guests can use the fitness center, rooftop pool, ideal for people watching. 303 East Main St.; and movie stars, Aspen hot tub and barbecue area. Read our review. 970-544-6628 attracts well-heeled visitors year-round. St. Regis Aspen The Wild Fig Located at the base of Aspen Mountain, This tiny eatery has a pretty covered space and Clockwise from top left: the restau- the 179-room St. Regis is decorated in a Western Mediterranean/American food options like rants at the Jerome and Little Nell; alpine style. All suites come with butler service hummus, fresh seafood and pasta. 315 E. Hy- a suite at the Little Nell; prep for the Food & Wine Classic; Element 47’s and the 15,000-square-foot Remède Spa has a man Ave.; 970-925-5160 bar; the St. Regis courtyard complimentary oxygen room for high-altitude acclimating. Some two- and three-bedroom SHOP residences are rentable. Read our review. Anna Trezbinski stocks her flagship boutique (414 East Cooper Ave.; 970-925-2848) with Hotel Jerome tribal-inspired goods crafted by Kenyans. Built during an 1890s silver boom, the Gorsuch (611 East Durant Ave.; 970-920-9388) Jerome today boasts masculine-chic accom- sells Austrian jackets as well as haute fashion. modations featuring leather bedframes and Nuages (601 East Cooper Ave.; 970-925-6569) historic prints but also marble bathrooms and stocks sophisticated but wearable women’s plasma TVs. There is a spa, fitness center, kids’ fashion, and Distractions (465 East Hopkins playroom and fleet of SUVs chauffeured by Ave.; 970-544-9946) offers Rag & Bone jeans hy; . reg i s as p en; ele m en t 47; f oo d & w ne class c, G ald o nes Ph oto gra hy; cowboy-hatted staff. Read our review. alongside skull-shaped, glittered evening bags.

Cowboy songs like Old Dan Tucker and Red River Valley were often sung

credit T K t he l itt le nell; s to help keep cattle calm to reduce the chance of a stampede.

34 35 destination: dude ranches

The 10-gallon hat was origi- nally created for Buffalo Bill Cody when he wanted a grand hat for his Wild West Show.

Left to right: a tent at Paw’s Up; cabins at Brush Creek; the bar at Brush Creek; a guest room at the Ranch at Rock Creek

Triple Creek Ranch, Montana setting continues to draw a loyal following. Set among the towering Douglas firs of Mon- Best for: Low-key families who love activities. Indagare Matchmaker: tana’s Bitterroot Valley, the Triple Creek Ranch Room to Book: A two- to four-bedroom home. is an adults-only Relais & Châteaux property Keep in Mind: The service isn’t up to the old Dude Ranches with 24 cozy, well-appointed cabins. standards, and the activities are very expensive. They all offer stunning landscapes and promise great adventure, but each of these Best for: Active adults who want to experience Favorite Activities: Clay shooting, whitewater six dude ranches is better suited to a different type of traveler. the West through adventures, gourmet cuisine rafting and hayrides. Read Indagare’s review. and a comfortable cabin in the woods. he undeniably romantic allure of the program and very stylish accommodations. Room to Book: Chipmunk for couples; Osprey, Lone Mountain Guest Ranch, Montana American West explains the multitude Best for: Those who love exploring from a plush a restored fishing cabin on a river bank, for Located seven miles from the lifts at Big Sky Tof guest ranches offering luxe accom- Western setting. The ranch is also a fabulous t r o ck creek those who want to fish from sunrise to sunset. ski resort and 20 miles from Yellowstone, this modations combined with old-time adventure. place to take over as a larger group. Keep in Mind: Guests must be 16 or older historic ranch offers one-week packages. Whether you’re traveling as a couple, a family or Room to Book: Sweetgrass, a two-bedroom Favorite Activities: Helping with a cattle drive, Best for: Travelers who want an affordable way a group of friends, the following properties offer canvas cabin with a wood-burning stove. hiking the Lewis and Clark trail and sapphire to explore Montana, staying at a dude ranch. options suitable for any occasion. Keep in Mind: There are a variety of accommo- panning. Read Indagare’s review. Room to Book: The Ridgetop Lodge, a six-

dations tailored to specific needs and interests. t brush creek; ranch a bedroom cottage set away from the heart of the

Ranch at Rock Creek, Montana Contact Indagare for more information. a Resort at Paws Up, Montana ranch that is perfect for larger groups. Located on 6,600 acres, this lavish, all-inclusive Favorite Activities: Clay shooting, fishing, The ranch that pioneered the concept Keep in Mind: The atmosphere is truly old property offers a gorgeous interpretation of a paintball, bowling and foosball at the Saloon. of glamping (luxury tented camps) may have school, with meals served family-style, which aws u p aws

Wild West adventure, with an excellent dining Read Indagare’s review. p t he l o dge & s p suffered a decline in service, but the exquisite some will love and others will not.

36 37 destination: dude ranches destination: member postcard

The origin of the cowboy boot comes from other boot styles, including the Wellington boot and the Hessian boot. Texas cowboys were known to get a lone star inlaid in the front of their boots.

Favorite Activities: Whitewater rafting and guests fly into the Denver airport and then drive zip-lining. Read Indagare’s review. four hours to the property. Favorite Activities: Horseback riding, bison The Lodge & Spa at Brush Creek hunting, fly-fishing and rock climbing.Read Ranch, Wyoming Indagare’s review. Set on 30,000 acres in the middle of Wyoming’s unspoiled Platte River Valley, this designer-chic Mountain Sky Guest Ranch, Montana guest ranch celebrates Western heritage and Montana’s 10,000-acre Mountain Sky Guest adventure with elegance. Ranch offers impeccable service, charming log Best for: Discriminating travelers who are cabins and fabulous activities. ready to fall in love with the West. Best for: Active travelers and families who seek Kicking Back Room to Book: Magee Homestead, located adventure in breathtaking surroundings. five miles from the main ranch, which comes Room to Book: Pony, a cabin from the 1930s, at the Ranch with a dedicated staff, or the 700-square-foot and Big Horn, a newer cabin ideal for families. Indagare member Carroll Pierce yurt, which can be accessed on horseback and Note: this icon sells out up to a year in advance. recently returned from the Ranch includes dinners cooked over open fires. Keep in Mind: There are no TVs or cell service. at Rock Creek in Montana with Keep in Mind: The lodge is open only from Favorite Activities: Golf, horseback riding, hik- her husband and another couple. May through October and is a trek to get to: ing and fly-fishing.Read Indagare’s review.

e parked our car when we arrived at noon and ate appetizers to sound of the river. the Ranch at Rock Creek, and from Between the four of us, we participated in Wthen on we went everywhere on nearly every activity offered: riding, bowling, either bike or foot, allowing us to be totally im- archery, fly-fishing, riflery, mountain biking, mersed in the beauty. the ropes course, swimming, hiking and playing During our September stay, the skies were horseshoes. We enjoyed massages and facials, clear and days were warm. At night we bundled which were relaxing but not outstanding. We up a bit and dined alfresco. were exhausted most nights, but we did rally for I’d shipped my triathlon bike ahead so I a few frames of bowling, a movie and the rodeo. could ride while there. When we arrived, the Our favorite hike was Top of the World. We ranch mechanic had already built it and put it requested a picnic lunch, which was ready for us in my room! I hadn’t asked him to do this, nor when we reached the top. The food is amazing would I even have thought it possible, as the at the ranch, and we enjoyed eating our meals Spotlight: American Prairie Kestrel Camp bike is rather complicated, but I appreciated his out on the flagstone terrace. The lunches—kale Open since 2013, American Praire Reserve is working to establish the largest wildlife conservation area in gesture greatly. He even drove me off property salad and cherry-laced cornbread one day, the United States. The reserve, located in Montana, currently protects 300,000 acres of land, and American and gave me a highlighted bike route map. roasted sweet potato sandwiches the next—were Prairie is working to expand the area to 3 million acres. In addition to the bison, prairie dogs and abundant We stayed in the main lodge before moving to outstanding. Our favorite dinners were the wildlife that inhabit the area, the reserve also boasts luxe accommodations. Kestrel Camp is comprised of five a two-bedroom tent, Sweet Grass. We enjoyed grill and Dutch oven nights, the private dinner yurts, which provide a stunningly isolated home base for travelers looking to explore the wide-open plains. both accommodations, but the tents are a very at Bikini Beach and even room-service. Their t r o ck creek Excursions including mountain biking, bird walks and photography tutorials are fun for all ages, but the special option. The Japanese soaking tub on chocolate-chip cookies are the best I’ve ever true beauty of American Prairie is its utter seclusion. Open in the spring, summer and fall, the resort provides our porch was the perfect salve for sore muscles had. We loved our time at the ranch and cannot

safari-style adventure in a stunning setting. www.americanprairie.org a m er i can p ra r e t he ranch a after activity-filled days. We lit a fire each after- wait to go back. Read Indagare’s review.

38 39 destination: cheat sheet

Clockwise from left: the New Sheridan; a summer gondola ride; a room at Lumière; an afternoon hike; bites at Alpino Vino Telluride Tips Offering a slower pace than other glitzy resort destinations, Telluride sits amidst some of the most incredible mountains in the world.

n the early 1890s, Telluride, Colorado had better-known state mates Aspen and Vail, it Lumière and nightlife, and the gondola to Mountain Vil- more millionaires per capita than New York attracts those looking for a Western experience Thoughtful details and top-notch service make lage is a stone’s throw from the lobby door. Read ICity. The first local mineral claim was made without glamorous excess. this smart, sophisticated slope-side retreat a Indagare’s review. there in 1875, and from then until 1978, billions Telluride presents visitors with a choice favorite with discerning travelers eager to maxi- of dollars of gold, silver, copper, lead and zinc between the historic mining town on one side mize outdoor time. Read Indagare’s review. Element 52 were extracted. The town’s name is said to come of the mountain and the newer development of Located on the outskirts of town and just a from tellurium, a rare silver-white metalloid, Mountain Village on the other (which is ski-in, The Peaks Resort short walk from the gondola, this collection of but a more popular explanation is that it’s a con- ski-out in winter). The two differ in atmosphere The Peaks is a sprawling resort with a stagger- high-end residences is ideal for families looking traction of the warning called to miners making and convenience: the former has Victorian ing array of facilities and amenities, from tennis for a semi-independent rental experience. the trek to the town, which was known for bars charm and character, while the latter caters to courts and swimming pools to a laser center, element52.aubergeresorts.com and houses of ill repute: “To hell you ride.” families. To get from one side of the mountain oxygen room and on-site helicopter operations. to the other, there is a bus service and a gondola. Read Indagare’s review. Cheat Sheet Lay of the Land Splurge…on the decadent, off-the-menu grilled A tiny town in a big setting, Telluride is just 12 Where to Stay The New Sheridan cheese at slope-side wine bar Alpino Vino. Upper See Forever, Gold Hill; 970-728-7474 blocks long and eight wide, and is encircled by Hotel Madeline American history buffs and anyone eager to Eat…dinner at cozy local standby La Marmotte. the soaring San Juan Mountains, which rise to For families and groups needing the conve- soak up Telluride’s small-town spirit will love 150 West San Juan Ave.; 970-728-6232 Drink…at Telluride’s oldest watering hole, the more than 14,000 feet. The nearest stoplight is nience of a central Mountain Village location staying on Main Street in this storied Gold Historic Bar at the New Sheridan Hotel. 45 miles away, and you won’t see a single chain and resort amenities, Hotel Madeline delivers. Rush–era hotel, whose saloon once played host 231 West Colorado Ave.; 970-728-4351 Visit…Allred’s, perched on the mountain at the restaurant in Telluride. Worlds apart from its Read Indagare’s review. to frontier settlers and bandits. top gondola stop, for hearty dinners and cocktails. Read Indagare’s review. 565 Mountain Village Blvd.; 970-728-7474 Experience…bluegrass music and film pre- mieres at two of Telluride’s most popular summer In 1852, Henry Wells and William Fargo established an office in San Francisco Hotel Columbia festivals. www.visittelluride.com Explore…the abandoned town of Tomboy, which to serve gold rush prospectors. They were so trustworthy and reliable that miners This intimate hotel is located within walking once flourished at an altitude of 11,500 feet.

would swear, “By God and Wells Fargo.” t he new sher i dan b o nneau lu mi ere; al pi n o v i ; t ellur de to ur s m b ard, ryan distance of all the best restaurants, shopping

40 41 destination: jackson hole

he 50-mile-long valley known as Jackson stated, decorated mostly with natural materials. Hole lies between two stunning moun- On first glance, the rooms, all of which have Ttain ranges: the Tetons to the west and open floor plans with bed and sitting rooms, the Gros Ventres to the east. Part of Teton Coun- large baths and walk-in closets, appear almost ty, which also contains Grand Teton National spare. But as at all Amans, there are small Park and a large part of Yellowstone National cosseting touches that make all the difference: Park, Jackson Hole comprises the town of Jack- comfy chairs are draped with soft blankets; the son (about a 25-minute drive from the airport) room’s thermostat is located behind the bed and the villages of Moose and Wilson. pillows, so you can crank up the heat before get- ting up on chilly mornings. Everything has been Where to Stay streamlined to emphasize calm, in accord with Four Seasons Jackson Hole the resort’s name—Aman is Sanskrit for “peace,” Vibe: Ski-in/ski-out, family-friendly, and gani is “home” in Shoshone. full-service The Amangani is the perfect place for quiet Situated at the base of the Grand Tetons, Four downtime, with its spa, large outdoor pool, Seasons Jackson Hole is all about unabashed library and breathtaking natural splendor. Jackson Hole pampering, from poolside attendance doling out Read our review. The laid-back Wyoming town is cool towels to complimentary nightly s’mores. surrounded by some of America’s With 124 guest rooms and 60 privately owned Rent a House most stunning terrain, which draws nature enthusiasts. two- to five-bedroom residences, the Four Travelers looking for a private but cosseting Seasons is one of Jackson Hole’s biggest resorts. home away from home will find an abundance But thanks to stone-clad fireplaces, the lounge’s of houses in the area suited for different needs. couches arranged in small groups and in a warm With properties geared towards families, palette of chocolate browns and deep reds, the couples and friends traveling together, Jackson hotel feels surprisingly cozy. Hole’s homes are some of the most lusted-after Outfitted with fireplaces, huge bathrooms, accommodations, and even compete with the overstuffed furniture and light-wood detailing, finest hotels in town. Indagare can arrange for the large guest rooms are calm refuges. The rentals with or without services including full property offers a combination of location, ser- concierge, maid and private chef services, as vice and amenities (including a wonderful spa) well as more budget-friendly options. unmatched in Jackson Hole. Read our review. Where to Eat Amangani For the most part, the best restaurants in the Vibe: Quiet, sophisticated, outside town area are located in Jackson, a charming town Guests arriving at the Ed Tuttle–designed ideal for post-dinner strolls. Amangani, which blends almost seamlessly into its surroundings, are greeted with a 30-foot- Snake River Grill an greszk o ; a m angan i f ur seas ns jacks n h le long wall of windows providing stunning vistas There’s a reason that Snake River Grill has been , t r i s

t overlooking the valley. This is also the view from the uncontested fine-dining choice in Jackson all 40 suites. The interiors are sleek and under- since it opened in 1995: in food and ambiance, a i n res o r

The gunfight at the O.K. Corral, which actually took place in a vacant lot behind the O.K. Corral, lasted for 30 seconds with about 30 shots being fired. The Earp brothers (Wyatt,

Clockwise from top left: the Morgan and Virgil) and their friend Doc Holliday came out on the winning (and tram up the mountain; fishing jacks o n h le mo un t surviving) side, but all were charged with murder. They were found not guilty. at Amangani; Jackson at night; the lounge at the Four Seasons; Amangani’s pool; wildlife grazing

43 the Snake River Grill strikes an enviable balance between rustic warmth and elegance. The menu features trusted American classics, but every- thing is prepared with a pinch of innovation and inspiration that makes it memorable. 84 East Broadway; 307-733-0557

Nora’s Fish Creek Breakfast at the family-run Nora’s, in the tiny village of Wilson (drive too fast and you’ll miss it), is rustic Jackson Hole at its finest. Regulars dig into huge servings of pancakes, eggs with extra-crispy bacon, thick oatmeal with melted brown sugar and, according to some local food- Horseback riding at Amangani (left); a ies, the best huevos rancheros in the region. On vista including the Tetons weekends it’s packed, so plan accordingly. 5600 West Wyoming; 307-733-8288 homey, and the fare is typical American com- Grand Teton National Park the Walk Festival Hall, at the base of the Grand Il Villaggio Osteria fort food. Breakfast—like biscuits with Cajun When John D. Rockefeller Jr. visited this area Tetons. Don’t miss the popular open-air Fourth Casual, fun and serving delicious food meant to gravy—is the most popular meal, but the café is in the 1920s, he was so taken by its natural of July concert, which takes place on Alpine be shared, Osteria is a favorite lunch and dinner also a great choice for a lunch break while shop- beauty that he started buying up land. After Field. The Jackson Hole Wine Auction is the spot. The menu has numerous small plates per ping in town. 135 E Broadway; 307 732-1910 creating a large ranch for his family on part of largest fundraiser for the festival, and is a big la tavola (“for the table”), such as pancetta- it, he donated the remaining tens of thousands event in the wine world, drawing chefs, vintners wrapped butternut squash and Kobe-beef slid- What to Do of acres to the park service to incorporate and oenophiles to Wyoming. www.gtmf.org ers. Entrées include heaping helpings of home- A nearly year-round destination—with in- into what became a federal park encompass- made pasta, pizza baked in an oven located in vigorating skiing in the winters and wildlife ing some 310,000 acres. Outdoor enthusiasts National Museum of Wildlife Art the dining room and large salads. 3335 West watching and other adventures in the summer— come to hike the 200 or so miles of trails and This 51,000-square-foot museum contains one Village Drive, Teton Village; 307-739-4100 Jackson Hole is part of Wyoming’s national park to scale the 13,770-foot-high Grand Teton. Part of the country’s best wildlife-art collections as system. Only 3 percent of the land is in private of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem, the park well as interactive exhibits that kids love, travel-

Bin 22 hands; the rest is public, where elk, moose and an greszk o supports around 300 species of birds, 61 types ing shows, lectures and educational programs. Part wine store part tapas restaurant, Bin 22 buffalo roam at the feet of majestic mountains. of mammals (including bears, mountain lions, Constructed mostly out of red Arizona sand- , t r i s is perfect for a midday snack or full-on dinner. t coyotes, bison, moose, pronghorn and elk), plus stone, the building has many green features, like The cuisine is a mix of Spanish and Italian and Yellowstone National Park more than two dozen species of fish. Beyond timber salvaged from Yellowstone forest fires

the small dishes are meant to be shared. In ad- Many visitors make the one-and-a-half-hour a i n res o r hiking and climbing, park pursuits can include and the on-site capture and treatment of storm dition to wine, craft beers and regional spirits drive north from Jackson to Yellowstone. Estab- fly-fishing, wildlife viewing, kayaking and ca- water. 2820 Rungius Road; 800-313-9553 are served. 200 West Broadway; 307-739-9463 lished in 1872 as America’s first national park, it noeing. 307-739-3300 is a popular family destination in the summer, To read more recommendations on where to stay, eat, so traffic can be heavy and sights crowded. For shop and explore in Jackson and its surroundings, visit Café Genevieve Grand Teton Music Festival & Wine Auction our destination report on www.indagare.com. Indagare Café Genevieve is housed in a historic building those who want to extend their visit, we recom- Launched in the 1960s, this concert series members interested in planning a trip can contact our bookings team by email ([email protected]) or from the turn of the 20th century located just mend making reservations at one of the lodges presents international orchestras, soloists and phone (212-988-2611) for assistance arranging an itiner-

off the town square. The space is authentic and in the park well in advance. 307-344-7381 a m angan i ; jacks o n h le mo un t chamber ensembles in performances held in ary and booking the perfect hotel or house.

44 45 destination: southwest

Looking for Adventure: great road trip is an American rite of get your bearings. Take a short introductory Road Tripping passage — and that is doubly true for hike on the property, like the Sorrel Ridge Trail. Aone that traverses the Southwest in all its Have dinner at Sorrel’s River Grill. grandeur. Whether you’re channeling the bikers Wake up early and drive into town to pick The best way to explore the expanses of the American Southwest is by of Easy Rider or Thelma and Louise in their up sandwiches at the Love Muffin Café 139( car. But how do you pull together an Thunderbird, driving in this part of the world N. Main St.; 435-259-6833), a great local itinerary for this vast region? Indagare’s evokes a sense of freedom. And drive you will. spot, before continuing on to Arches National Simone Girner maps out three routes Because the distances are vast. Planning a road Park. Choose one of the many hikes on offer: connecting favorite sights like Moab trip in this region is like assembling the pieces Windows is an easy, leisurely trek to two stun- and the Grand Canyon. of a huge puzzle, and how you put it together ning Arches; Devils’ Garden and Delicate Arch depends on your expectations. How much are longer and more challenging. Or ask Sorrel driving do you want to do? Are you interested River to arrange for a guide to accompany you only in hiking, or does your dream itinerary also to the Fiery Furnace. Have lunch along the way. include rafting, biking and horseback riding? In the afternoon take another hike or ride a Can you stay in lodges that are less than five- bike, or return to the ranch for a spa treatment star? Do you want lengthy, challenging hikes or or to spend time relaxing riverside. gentler walks with great views? The next day, you can do a longer hike outside Journeys incorporating the right constel- the park, like Hidden Valley, which starts south lation of sights — from spiritual Zion and of Moab. Or you can take a half-day rafting trip otherworldly Bryce to the red rocks of Sedona down the Colorado River, including a lunch and the seemingly endless Grand Canyon — can break on a beach with stunning views (contact truly become trips of a lifetime. Here are three Indagare’s Bookings Team for an introduction options for great road trips. Many more can be to Moab’s best rafting company). Sorrel can also customized by Indagare’s Bookings Team. organize a guide for Canyonlands or a moun- tain-bike experience. Road Trip 1: Moab, Utah, to Grand In the late afternoon, go back to Arches and Canyon, Arizona choose a good place to watch the sunset. A lot of people stop at the Lower Delicate Arch view- Days 1–4 (three nights): Moab point, but you can escape the crowds by driving You arrive in Moab in the afternoon or early to Balanced Rock and walking up to Willow evening. Check in to Sorrel River Ranch, and Flats, which is a great vantage point from which

Moab: Where to Stay Sorrel River Ranch, located right on the Colorado River, is the place to stay when visiting Arches. A 30-minute drive from Moab, through stunning red-rock landscapes, it has 55 rooms and suites, all with kitchenettes, housed in clusters of wooden cabins that line the river (though not all of them have river views). The heart of the property is the main lodge, which was the original owner’s personal home in the 1990s. The large wooden deck outside is like that of a safari lodge, with lots of comfortable couches and rocking chairs from which to view the river and the mountains beyond. The lovely staff is happy to help arrange day activities in the nearby parks and wilderness. Guided tours to Arches and Canyonlands are options, as are excursions to nearby Fisher Towers and the incred- ible mountain-bike trails of Moab. Read Indagare’s review.

47 destination: southwest

to view this stunning section of the park. After seeing the sun set, return to Sorrel for a meal overlooking the Colorado River.

Days 4–6 (two nights): Bryce Canyon or Zion Wake up early for a four-hour drive to Bryce Canyon or a five-hour one to Zion National Park. If you are not in a rush, take Route 24, which winds through Capitol Reef National Park, where you can have a picnic lunch, then head south on scenic Highway 12, through the Clockwise from top left: Moab’s Hidden dramatic terrain of the Grand Staircase–Es- Valley; Delicate Arch and Balancing Rock in calante National Monument. Arches National Park; the Grand Canyon’s Desert View Watchtower; Bryce Canyon’s Bryce: Arrive at Bryce in the afternoon, amphitheater and wilderness area. check in to Bryce Canyon Lodge, and walk up to the Amphitheater to watch the sun set. Have dinner at the Lodge’s restaurant–it’s first come, first serve, so hurry back to put your name on the list. Early birds should not miss sunrise, either at Sunrise Point, an elevation overlooking the canyon, or by walking the Navajo Trail and watching the hoodoos turn yellow and orange. Choose one of the longer hikes, like Fairyland Zion’s border, and you can have dinner there; next day, you can hike into the Grand Canyon hotels are located in a canyon that feels a world Loop or Peek-a-Boo Loop, and set out to explore Oscar’s Café and Bit & Spur are good choices. along the Bright Angel or South Kaibab trail. Be away from the busy town of Sedona (see Road the glorious Bryce Canyon. aware that walking up takes about twice as long Trip 3). But if you’re up for more hiking, a great Zion: Zion offers more hiking options than Days 6–7 (one night): Grand Canyon as going down, so, for instance, if you descend trail is Bear Mountain, a short drive from either Bryce, especially easy and moderate ones (see Drive to the Grand Canyon’s eastern Desert an hour, plan on spending two ascending again. property. Later, ask Enchantment to pack you Road Trip 2). The bragging-rights hike is the View Entrance (about four hours from Bryce). And it is a bad idea to try to hike down to a wine and cheese picnic and take the 20-to- aptly named Angel’s Landing, a challenging For lunch you can either stop at the Amangiri the bottom and back up in a single day. More 30-minute hike up Doe Mountain to a high, flat 5.4-mile trek that culminates in a long, narrow (with a reservation) to relax at the poolside res- leisurely and less strenuous is a walk along the plateau with exquisite sunset views. ridge with spectacular views (children and taurant, or pick up provisions in Page, Arizona, thirteen-mile rim. Don’t miss such lofty look- those suffering from vertigo should not attempt and picnic at Horseshoe Bend, overlooking a outs as Mather, Pima Point and the Abyss. Day 9: Phoenix it). Less scary, though climbing even higher, turn in the Colorado River. After a late lunch (Arizona Room has the Drive for two hours to Phoenix, where you can is Observation Point, an eight-mile hike with After lunch, continue on the scenic 25-min- best salads, sandwiches and burgers), drive two visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, learn expansive views. ute drive along the canyon rim from Desert hours to Sedona and check in to Enchantment about Native American history at the Heard Your nonhiking options at Zion are similar View Point. Check in to El Tovar Hotel, and Resort or Mii Amo. Museum or tour the wonderful Desert Botanic to those at Bryce, with the big exception that take a short walk to get your bearings. Have Garden (see Road Trip 3). Phoenix has terrific Springdale, a cute little town, lies just outside dinner in El Tovar’s historic dining room. The Days 7–9: Sedona (two nights) restaurants, so you can have an early dinner at After your active hiking week, you may just one of Indagare’s favorites before wrapping up Legendary frontierswoman, scout and sharpshooter Calamity Jane reportedly earned her nickname want to enjoy the pool at Enchantment or book your southwestern road trip and heading home. by rescuing her superior, Captain Egan, from an ambush in Goose Creek, Wyoming. Another story a series of spa treatments at its sister property, claims she acquired it as a result of her warnings to men that to offend her was to “court calamity.” the acclaimed Mii Amo, across the way; both For more tips, contact our bookings team: 212-988-2611

48 49 destination: southwest

Otherwordly Utah Two easy daytrips from Amangiri are Buckskin Gulch and White Pockets (above). Buckskin Gulch is best reached via the Wire Pass Trailhead, about 20 minutes by car from the resort. The hike from here is incredibly scenic (and less well known than some others), wending through fire-red slot canyons. Indagare Road Trip 2: Las Vegas to Amangiri so planning your itinerary around the crowds can wave the day-trippers good-bye at dusk and can also arrange for a guide to take mem- is crucial. If you can, avoid the busy months of enjoy the starlit skies. bers canyoneering, but this is recommend- Day 1: Las Vegas June and July, visiting in the spring or fall in- ed only for travelers not afraid of heights. Depending on how you feel about Sin City, you stead. Hikes like the vertiginous Angels Landing Days 3–5: Amangiri White Pockets, a two-hour drive from the can rent a car at the airport and start the road and slot-canyon Narrows will be less busy then. The drive from Zion to Amangiri, in the south- Aman, is a photographer’s dream. The trip right away or check into one of our recom- Several of the Zion hikes are challenging, but western corner of Utah, takes about one hour unique geological formation (dating back mended Vegas hotels, then set off the following all reward with vistas that are humbling in their and forty minutes. Once you pass Kanab, the to the Jurassic period, 200 million years day to Zion, about a two-and-a-half-hour drive. grandeur and beauty (a favorite for impressive route turns storybook scenic all the way to the ago) is composed of thin layers of white expanses is Observation Point). Those who plan resort. Amangiri (amanresorts.com) resembles and red sandstone that have been twisted Days 2–3: Zion ahead and are lucky enough to get a coveted the ultimate James Bond hideaway, composed into polygonal shapes. The hike through Zion is one of the most visited national parks, cabin at the Zion Lodge (www.zionlodge.com) of squat buildings the color of the surrounding this lunar landscape is a relatively easy canyons—walk five minutes in any direction, and perfect for families. and the resort disappears entirely. Guests can relax in the 5,000-square-foot Las Vegas See…a Cirque du Soleil Play…the Strip’s only golf spa, which comprises a water pavilion with hy- everything from guided hikes in the national show, like “O” at the Bellagio course, at the Wynn, drotherapy rooms, a watsu pool offering water parks to water sports on Lake Powell. Other Cheat Sheet or “Love” at the Mirage. designed by Tom Fazio shiatsu and two outdoor treatment terraces. In exciting excursions are hot-air balloon rides and Sleep…in a more serene ho- Splurge…on dinner at Joel Shop…in the dazzling Fo- the afternoon, the light on the pool, one of the helicopter tours across the Grand Canyon. In tel, i.e. one that doesn’t have Robuchon or Bouchon rum Shops mall, one of the region’s most spectacular, is magical, and many short, active types will not want for choices. The a casino, like the Mandarin Eat…French bistro fare at country’s best collection of guests stretch out their hiking legs here. Most drive back to Las Vegas takes four hours. Travel- Oriental or the Four Seasons Mon Ami Gabi at The Paris high-end stores who stay more than a night or two will want to ers can also book a local flight out of Page, about explore off-property as well. You can partake in a 30-minute drive from the resort.

50 51 destination: southwest

Pat Garrett was a sheriff, barman and cus- toms agent who became famous for killing Billy the Kid. Some stories suggest that Garrett and Billy the Kid were once friends and that he actually didn’t kill him, but helped him escape.

Taliesin West, the home and architecture school he built in the desert in the late 1930s.

Days 3–5: Sedona Desert flowers in bloom Two hours by car north of the desert plains of Phoenix, Sedona is most famous for red-rock Road Trip 3: Phoenix to Grand Canyon canyons, closely followed by its large concentra- tion of tarot-card-wielding psychics. The area’s Days 1–3: Phoenix natural beauty definitely deserves more atten- Centered on the city of Phoenix, where flights tion than a quick drive-through en route to the arrive at Sky International Airport, the Phoenix Grand Canyon, which lies another hour north. area is a suburban sprawl that is home to The last stretch of Route 179 is the most scenic, more than two-thirds of Arizona’s population. framed by crimson cliffs and ethereal valleys. Mii Amo Calling Even downtown Phoenix feels like a charming Check in to Enchantment Resort or Mii Melissa Biggs Bradley describes suburb, as does Scottsdale, one of the area’s Amo, its sister spa property across the road. her favorite spa in the west. most exclusive cities. Most of the best resorts Enchantment offers a huge variety of facili- and restaurants are located between Phoenix ties—tennis courts, a putting green and nearby and Scottsdale along Camelback Road, the main golf course—and activities both on- and off- confess — I am a Mii Amo addict. Since my Some guests come for rest or to detox, while east-west thoroughfare. The top zip code here property: croquet, painting and tennis clinics, first visit eight years ago to the spa and well- others, searching for paths to a healthy lifestyle, is Paradise Valley, or PV, home to such hotels as as well as mountain-bike rides, nature walks Iness refuge near Sedona, I have made a trip attend nutrition lectures and cooking dem- the Sanctuary on Camelback and the Hermosa and hikes through Sedona’s raw landscape. For a year. I have come alone, with my daughter, onstrations. Still others seek renewal through Inn. Old Scottsdale, which the New York Times the younger set, there’s a kids club as well as with my sisters and, in recent years, with some Reiki and meditation sessions. Over the years, has called the “desert version of Miami’s South wellness programs aimed at those under 16, like incredible groups of Indagare members. Each friends and Indagare members looking for Beach,” is pretty touristy, although it contains in-room massages, facials and make-up lessons, time, I am blown away by what I discover— comfort after the death of a loved one, rest after some good restaurants and the lovely Museum plus sessions with many of the wellness experts. about the place, the people with whom I go and, a long divorce, strength before a battle with can- of Contemporary Art. of course, myself. cer, courage before a major career change or a One must-see for first-time visitors is the Days 5–6: Grand Canyon For centuries, locals have attributed special break after an exhausting period have all found Desert Botanic Garden, a short drive from the From Sedona, take the two-hour drive to the healing powers to the energy in Boynton Can- a visit here to be life changing. It is not the airport. You can follow several paths through South Rim to experience this stunning spectacle yon, where Mii Amo is located, and its beauty most luxurious spa I have been to—the rooms the garden, each focusing on a different aspect, (see page 54 for how best to tour the Grand certainly infuses those lucky enough to spend are a bit spare. Nor is it the most rigorous— like local wildflowers, desert discovery and Canyon). Check in to El Tovar hotel. Unless time there with a sense of awe. Healers inter- the Ranch at Live Oak delivers more tangible the people and plants of the Sonoran Desert. you’re planning on hiking to the bottom of the ested in energy and alternative remedies have weight-loss results. But, without question, it is Another interesting stop is the Heard Museum, canyon, one night here is plenty, giving you flocked to Sedona, and Mii Amo has a tremen- consistently the most transformative. I, for one, whose 11 exhibition spaces and outdoor sculp- time to take a few light hikes and hit the main dous team of gifted psychics, astrologers, hypno- cannot imagine starting a year without the kind ture garden display what is perhaps the most observation points along the rim. tists and masseuses. So if you want to mix yoga of restorative care that I receive at Mii Amo. acclaimed collections of Native American art in and Pilates with hikes and healing and beauty Indagare’s annual Insider Trip to Mii Amo is scheduled the country. Fans of the architect Frank Lloyd For more tips on how best to plan a southwestern road sessions, you can. Each program is tailored to for January 2016. Contact [email protected] for Wright should take the 30-minute drive to trip, visit www.indagare.com and contact our team. you and to what you hope to accomplish. details, rates and to sign up for the trip.

52 53 destination: southwest

Special Access Indagare’s Bookings Team has long planned complex itin- eraries for its members to the American Southwest, including the Grand Canyon. We have the ability to get specialists and Grand Canyon: guides, as well as access to remote areas that are totally off the beaten tourist path. For a memorable itinerary, contact our What to Know team: [email protected]

site of mind-blowing dimensions — 277 August, so try to arrive in the spring or fall. Day hikers will be bored after one day. Have a sense of humor — you’re at the miles long, up to 18 miles wide and You will never be alone at the South Rim, but Day hikers have two options at the Grand Grand Canyon. Aover a mile deep — the Grand Canyon crowds will be decidedly less in those seasons. Canyon. They can walk along the rim, which Fair warning: the mushy food in some of the inspires superlatives and is rightly on many Once there, try to hike against the flow. Every- is spectacular, with breathtaking drop offs and cafeteria-style restaurants will remind you of travelers’ must-see lists. Because it is one of the one rushes to Desert View for sundown, for lots of photo opportunities, and long (13 miles) your college days, you will be given a beeper most-visited tourist attractions in the U.S., trips example, but pretty much anywhere along the but not particularly taxing, as the trail is mostly that starts bouncing around when your table here have to be mapped out carefully to assure huge expanse of the canyon affords exquisite paved. Or they can take one of the trails that is ready (even at breakfast), and the abundant a good experience. Here are six things to know sunset viewing. snakes down into the canyon, like Bright Angel gift shops will play a grating soundtrack of about visiting the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. or South Kaibab, both of which are exhilarat- Native American flute music. But keep a sense High-end accommodations are not ing but only whet your appetite to go farther. of humor about the parts that feel like Disney- Drive in via Desert View Road. available. Countless signs warn against trying to climb land, or ignore them, because once it’s just you Most travelers arrive via the South Entrance, Grand Canyon Village resembles a cross to the bottom of the canyon and back out in a and the canyon, you will experience great awe but if you can, come through the Desert View between an airport and a college campus, with single day. The descent takes about three hours and humility. Visit such prime viewing spots as Point, from which a scenic twenty-minute drive clusters of lodges, restaurants, cafés and gift and the return ascent more than six. Mather Point and South Kaibab Trailhead to brings you to Grand Canyon Village. Past Grand shops. The historic El Tovar, built in 1905, has marvel at the magnificent multihued layers of Canyon Village, a shuttle system takes visitors a prized rim position and is the most upmarket Plan overnight hikes in advance. rock in the canyon face. Ultimately, there’s no along the edge of the canyon. of the hotels. It has just seventy-eight rooms, The floor of the Grand Canyon is considered right or wrong way to do the Grand Canyon. which are booked way in advance. If you can some of the most exciting hiking terrain of the Some people treat it as a drive-by photo op, Timing is everything. score a room here, take it. None of the other Southwest. To stay in the historic Phantom some spend a night and walk around the rim, Heat and crowds make the Grand Canyon all lodgings come close in terms of ambiance, and Lodge at the bottom of the canyon, you have to others look into the great abyss and see the chal- but unbearable during July and, especially, El Tovar’s restaurant is the best in the village. book up to one year in advance. lenge to return.

54 55 destination: american west Is It Right for Me? The Indagare Travel team of experts map out how to choose among four distinct American West experiences, each unique in character, vibe and sensibility.

Dunton Hot Springs Mustang Monument Scarp Ridge Lodge Airstream 2 Go Dolores, Colorado Wells, Nevada Crested Butte, Colorado Wherever you’d like to go

In three words: restored ghost town In three words: cozy, mission-centered resort In three words: Ultimate luxury adventure In three words: Chic, retro, mobile Getting There: Fly to Durango or Telluride, Getting There: Fly to Salt Lake City and drive Getting There: Fly to Denver then take a Getting There: You can pick up your Airstream then drive two hours (from Durango) or about two-and-a-half hours to Mustang Monument. 10-minute flight to Gunnison/Crested Butte 2 Go in Las Vegas and drive it as the whim takes one-and-a-half hours (from Telluride). To avoid The smaller Elko Regional Airport (EKO) is Airport (GUC). The property is an easy 40-min- you or along a pre-determined itinerary. having to make a connection, fly into Montrose, about a 50-minute drive away. ute drive from the airport. Who Should Go: Adventurous types who and drive four hours to Dunton. Who Should Go: Horse lovers who want to Who Should Go: Those without a budget who are interested in hitting the road to see the Who Should Go: Couples looking for a roman- have an equine-centric experience while sup- want a truly unique, all-around experience that American West without being bogged down by tic cabin adventure and families who want ac- porting the protection of wild horses in the highlights the best activities of the region and checking in and out of hotels. cess to activities from a comfortable home base. American West. exquisite cuisine. The seven-room property has Good to Know: Before setting off on their road Good to Know: For an even more remote glam- Good to Know: Mustang Monument has a , kr i s ti j o hns n a seven-bed bunk room ideal for families travel- trip, drivers are given lessons on hauling Air- ping experience, check out the sister property, short season: the property is open only from late ing with a gaggle of kids. stream trailers behind the GMC Yukon Denali Dunton River Camp at Cresto Ranch, which June to September. Good to Know: Crested Butte is at a high tow vehicles provided.

consists of eight prospector-style luxury tents. Highlights: Learning about the property’s com- ang mo nu m en t elevation, so build in a day extra to acclimate. Highlights: The trailers allow pets, so the whole Highlights: Soaking in the nonsulfur hot mitment to protecting wild mustangs, develop- Highlights: The personal chef at the ready family can be included. They also provide a gas springs; the owners’ art collection, pieces of ing roping skills. Plus, wagon rides with the (pork empanadas with pomegranate guacamole, grill and BBQ equipment, plus a fully stocked which decorate each of the accommodations. resident cowboy, Clay. please) and the mountain biking that is made kitchen for picnics and cookouts on the go. Souvenir: New friends made at the communal Souvenir: A desire (and possibly know-how) one-of-a-kind thanks to the outstanding guides. Souvenir: Memories of having the freedom meals and health benefits from the hot springs to construct your very own luxury, furnished Souvenir: Pictures from heli-fishing for salmon to determine your own agenda as you go and

water, which are said to improve circulation. teepee in the backyard back home. dun to n h ot s p r i ngs; m us t scar p r i dge l o dge; a rs t rea m 2 g (they’ll even ship the fish home for you). sleeping each night in new surroundings.

56 57 destination: library Happy Trails To You…

rom Blazing Saddles to True Grit, Hollywood has often looked to the Old West for inspira- tion. The spirit of adventure, the majesty of nature, the promise of a new beginning, the fear Fof an early demise—all are themes that movies and TV love to explore, and that audiences find enthralling. Whether it’s a singing cowboy, a renegade lawman or a woman (or two) on the run, the West never fails to excite on film. Time hasn’t diminished the irresistible lure of the Wild West. In fact, visitors to the area still seem to be seduced by its rugged spirit. But, if you need a good place to start your own adventure, take a tip from some of Hollywood’s visionaries and set your sights on these movie sites:

Shane, 1953 This story of a range war and its mysterious, gun-sling- ing hero was partially filmed in Grand Teton National Park and in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, 1969 This film about Butch Cassidy and his “Wild Bunch” was partially filmed in Zion National Park, among other locations in Utah plus Colorado and New Mexico.

The Outlaw Josey Wales, 1976 Scenes from Clint Eastwood’s gritty tale of revenge were filmed in Lake Powell and Old Tucson, Arizona.

Dances with Wolves, 1990 Kevin Costner’s epic western was filmed in the secluded Black Hills of South Dakota.

Legends of the Fall, 1995 This tale follows the lives of three brothers (including Brad Pitt in one of his earliest roles) and their father living in a remote area in Montana.

Thelma and Louise, 1991 This ultimate road-trip drama used locations around California, Colorado and Utah, most notably Dead Horse Point in Canyonlands for the iconic final scene.

Into the Wild, 2007 This true story, documented by Jon Krakauer, is based on a young man’s travels across North America, includ- ing some time in the Grand Canyon.

58 earth rolls.” islands, eachinitsturn,astheround gloaming, onseaandcontinents sunrise, eternalsunset,dawnand This grandshowiseternal..Eternal without writtenpermission from thepublisher. Copyright ©2015Indagare Travel, Inc.Allrightsreserved. Quotation,reproduction ortransmission byanymeansisstrictlyprohibited [email protected] orcall212-988-2611. To purchase backissuesoftheIndagare Magazine($10apiece),sendanemail to ~John Muir, 1938

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