SAW BLADES Saskatchewan 101 WOODWORKERS' Canadian Quotes: GUILD ROB DIEMERT

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014 CANADIAN ISSUE #91

oodworkingHOME IMPROVEMENT W& DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS • TOOL YOUR SHOP • BUILD YOUR DREAMS

Create a Turn a Playful Entry Door Saueracker p.14 Shell How to p.26 Cooper a Door p.24 Build a TORII INSPIRED

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Large 21” x 30” cast aluminum Blade guard with riving knife 2 1/2” dust port for connection table with extendable rails Rip fence with On-board storage secures and anti-kickback fingers to standard shop vacuum – up to 25” rip capacity micro-adjustment accessories during transport

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www.kingcanada.com See your nearest King dealer to find out more! CANADIAN CONTENTS oodworkingHOME IMPROVEMENT AUGUST/SEPTEMBER W&DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS • TOOL YOUR SHOP • BUILD YOUR DREAMS 2014 FEATURES 7 Sask. Woodworkers’ Guild 2014 Show by rob brown See some of the work from the 2014 show. 14 Build an Entry Door by arnim rodeck This door can be built as-is, or used as a starting point to design another around. 26 Turn a Saueracker Shell by lisa chemerika This striking shell looks harder than it is, but don't tell anyone! 32 How to Select a Saw Blade by roger hamblen From geometry to usage, here's all beginners need to know about saw blades. 26 DEPARTMENTS 2 Editor’s Letter 4 Readers' Letters, Shop Tested 6 Web Shavings 10 Weekend Project: Mandolin Holder 13 Coming Events 7 20 Canadian Quotes: Rob Diemert 22 Top Ten: Renovation Projects 24 Finer Details: Coopering 48 Wood Chuckle COVER STORY Cover photo by Ian Ferguson 38 Build a Torii Inspired Cabinet If you’re a fan of Japanese inspired design you will 38 love this heirloom project. by ian ferguson

CanadianWoodworking.comCanadianWoodworking.com editor's letter CANADIAN oodworkingHOME IMPROVEMENT W&DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS • TOOL YOUR SHOP • BUILD YOUR DREAMS Issue #91 PUBLISHERS Paul Fulcher, Linda Fulcher enjoy my job. It’s always fun to EDITOR ART DIRECTOR see the pieces that woodwork- Rob Brown Jonathan Cresswell-Jones I ers across Canada have created. CONTRIBUTORS While putting this issue together, I Lisa Chemerika, Carl Duguay, Ian Ferguson, Roger Hamblen, Jason Klager, Arnim Rodeck, was able to see lots of new work from Don Wilkinson the Saskatchewan Woodworkers’ PREPRESS PROOFREADER Guild’s 2014 exhibition. I wanted to [email protected] Bonnie Wittek James Morrison include as many of their images in our SUBSCRIPTIONS/INQUIRIES Community column as possible, and what I couldn’t fit in will be Jennifer Taylor 1-800-204-1773 part of a slideshow that you can enjoy on our website. If a club ADVERTISING (519)449-2444 you belong to is having an exhibition, or many of its members have recently finished pieces, contact me. I’d love to feature your CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT work in our pages. One-year subscription (6 issues) $27.95 We have much more than great work from Saskatchewan in this Single-copy price: $5.95 issue. Projects span all skill levels, and include a wall-mounted man- H.S.T. Reg. #878257302 ISSN #1497-0023 Publications Mail Agreement No. 40035186 dolin holder, a one-of-a-kind entry door, a turned ornamental shell RETURN UNDELIVERABLE CANADIAN ADDRESSES TO CIRCULATION DEPT. CANADIAN WOODWORKING and the Japanese-inspired cabinet on our cover. We included this PO BOX 286 DARTMOUTH, NS B2Y 3Y3 cabinet in our Woodworkers’ Gallery last year and received some E-mail: [email protected] Copyright 2014 by Canadian Woodworking great feedback about it, so we turned it into a project article. Magazine div. of Sawdust Media Inc. If sharpening your skills is what you’re after, we have two articles TEL. (519)449-2444 FAX (519)449-2445 e-mail: [email protected] for you. In our Finer Details column, Jason Klager details how he website: www.CanadianWoodworking.com makes solid coopered doors. Curves add a lot to the look of a proj- Reprinting in whole or part is forbidden except by written permission from the publishers. ect, and if you know the tricks, they aren’t too difficult to complete. Please exercise caution when working with any tools or machinery. Follow common safety rules and precautions as outlined in any manuals related to the In the other skills-based article, Roger Hamblen covers everything equipment being used. This publication is sold with the understanding that (1) the authors and editors are not responsible for the results of any actions taken that beginning woodworkers need to know about saw blades, and on the basis of information in this publication, nor for any errors or omissions; and (2) the publisher is not engaged in rendering professional advice/services. offers some tips for using them safely and effectively. The publisher, and the authors and editors, expressly disclaim all and any liabil- ity to any person, whether a purchaser of this publication or not, in or respect While I enjoyed learning about the work from the Sask. of anything and of the consequences of anything done omitted to be done by any such person in reliance, whether whole or partial, upon the whole or any Woodworkers’ Guild, I also got a kick out of Rob Diemert, a skilled part of the contents of this publication. If advice or other expert assistance is furniture designer/maker, and highly respected instructor at Sheridan required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought. College in Oakville, ON. Rob is the focus of our latest Canadian From time to time other organizations may ask Canadian Quotes column. Check out our online slideshow of Rob’s work. Woodworking if they may send information about a product or service to some Canadian Woodworking subscribers, by I hope you enjoy reading this issue, as much as I have enjoyed put- mail or email. If you do not wish to receive these messages, contact us in any of the ways listed above. ting it together. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through Rob Brown the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF) of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our periodical.

Paul Fulcher Jennifer Taylor Carl Duguay Publisher & Advertising Director Circulation Web Editor pfulcher circdept cduguay CMCA @canadianwoodworking.com @canadianwoodworking.com @canadianwoodworking.com AUDITED

2 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Max Torque Airshield Pro Compact Router Face Protector Single Speed Colt • Amps: 7.0Amps Palm Router • HP: 1.25HP Combo Kit with LEDS • Built in fan keeps constant • Variable Speed flow of filtered air across the face • Amperage: 5.6 • No Load Speed: 16,000 - • Twin dust filters offer • Base Opening: 1-9/16" excellent protection • Collet Capacity: 1/4" 27,000rpm • Max. Motor HP: 1 HP • Collet Diameter: B O N U S • No Load RPM: 35,000 1/4" Get a FREE pack of 10 replacement • Plunge Depth: 1-3/16" • Plunge Stroke: 2" visors Model B3227 (value $36.99) • Depth Stop: 5 with purchase of B3228 $8999 $ $ 99 PR10E - Reg. $114.99 DWP611PK - Reg. $259 139 B3228 - Reg. $425 389 Deluxe Router Table 10” Contractors Table Saw • Aluminum Extruded 2 HP Dust Collector Fence with 2 Micro Adjusting Screws • Motor: 2 HP, 220V, 1 PH • 24 x 32 High Density • 12” Balanced Steel Impeller Laminated Table • 1.5 HP Motor, • 1790 CFM • Canadian Made Steel • Full Cast Iron Table • Upper Bag: One Micron Stand • Rip Cap. 36” right, 12” • Two 4” intakes left • 4 Castors for mobility • Made in Taiwan • Weight: 47 kg • Weight: 120kg • 2 year warranty • 2 Year warranty Special Buy Special Buy $ Special Buy $ $ PKG0031 - Reg. $499.00 299 CT146- Reg. $699.00 475 CT186 - Reg. $399.00 275 14” Deluxe 14” Ultimate 18” Ultimate Band Saw Band Saw Band Saw • Motor: 1-HP, 110V, 1 PH • Motor: 2HP, 220V, TEFC, 1 PH • Motor: 2HP, 220V, 1 PH • 2 Speeds: 2300 / 3200 FPM • Table: Precision ground cast • Cast Iron Table Size: 14” x • Blade Speed: 1430,2300,3250 FPM iron: 17 3/4" x 17 3/4" with 18” (Including sheet metal 6" steel extension table) • Table size: 16" x 20" Precision Ground Cast Iron • Cast Iron Wheels • Table Tilt: -5° to 45° • Throat: 17 1/2" • Cast Iron Wheels • Table tilt: -10° left, 45 ° right • Depth of Cut: 13" • Weight: 185 kg • Maximum Cutting Height: 7” Made in Taiwan • Weight 78 kg • Weight: 138 kg Special Buy Made in Taiwan Made in Taiwan $ $ $1299 CX104 - Reg. $799 649 CX100 - Reg. $14991149 CX108 - Reg. $1899 8" Parallelogram Jointer 15” Planer

$ $ 4 Knife Cutterhead Model CX08 - Reg. $1349 1149 4 Knife Cutterhead Model CX15 - Reg. $1499 1399 $ $ Spiral Cutterhead Model CX08SC - Reg. $1899 1569 Spiral Cutterhead Model CX15SC - Reg. $2599 2199 PRICES VALID FROM MAY 19TH TO AUGUST 9TH, 2014

1-800-461-BUSY (2879) shop tested woodnews

The Ottawa Woodworkers Association is holding WoodWorks 14, a conference by and for furniture makers; and WoodObjects, a public exhibition of outstanding handcrafted furniture and other wood objects. The event will be held September 27-29, 2014 at Algonquin College in Perth, one hour south-west Skil 7 ¼" of Ottawa. The organizers of WoodWorks 14 believe the line-up of speakers is very inspiring and Worm Drive SKILSAW offers something for everyone: • Ron Barter – designer/maker of fine furniture and the owner of he company that invented the worm drive Rosewood Studio in Perth. Tsaw, and whose name has become synony- • Tom Fidgen – author, musician, designer/maker of fine furniture; from Toronto. mous with circ saws of any genre, has raised the • Garrett Hack – designer/maker of fine federal-inspired furniture, stakes with its new model MAG77LT. It shaves writer and international woodworking teacher, from Vermont. an incredible 4 pounds off the standard worm • Mark Harrell – saw maker, from Wisconsin. drive saw, thanks to the wonders of die-cast • Linda Manzer – Canadian master luthier, from Toronto. magnesium. Its 15-amp motor delivers all the power you need, and it comes with features like •Konrad Sauer – Kitchener based designer/maker of some of the world’s a 53° bevel with a positive stop at 45°, a very finest hand planes. effective depth-of-cut system, anti-snag lower • Christopher Schwarz – woodworker, contributing editor of Popular Woodworking, guard, an easy-to-use spindle lock, on-board author, and publisher of Lost Art Press, from Kentucky. multi-function wrench, and a saw hook. Attend seminars, meet and mingle with each other, take in the furniture exhibit, and Price: $229.00. Read a detailed review online browse the wares of selected commercial vendors. A pub night and dinner are planned for at canadianwoodworking.com/reviews, or Saturday night. visit www.skiltools.com for more info. Additional details about WoodWorks 14 are available at —Carl Duguay www.woodworksconference.com. readers' letters King Canada Tool Reviews On Your Site “Building Together” Contest Winner I enjoy the reviews on your website. I own a couple of the machines that have Gary Robertson been reviewed and completely agree with the reviews. You really do a great Regina, SK job with these. Gary Robertson is a former fine arts instructor who Gary V. studied violin making and furniture construction as Spokane, WA retirement activities. Most of his projects are made by hand as he works in a fairly small shop. Despite this, in the last twenty years he has built over 50 Thanks. musical instruments and over 30 pieces of furni- SubscriptionPaul Fulcher, Publisher Draw Winners — ture, most of which have Celtic or floral hand-carved Patricia L. designs on them. He believes that "It is not the size of the tool, but Grimshaw, AB has won a Portable how sharp it is!" Dust Collector from The Building Together Contest is now closed. Response to the contest was General International. fantastic. Over the coming months we'll be reviewing all of the entries, and will announce the Grand Prize winner (who will receive all six individual prizes) in early July. Richard B. Niagara Falls, ON canadianwoodworking.com/contests has won a $250 gift card from Lee Valley. Clarification In our Jun/Jul article "Half-Pint Workbench", the Tail Vise used is #70G01.51, Subscribe or renew now for your chance to win! not 70G01.52.

4 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 PURVEYORS OF FINE MACHINERY®, SINCE 1983! • OVER A PURVEYORSMILLION SQUARE FEET PACKEDOF FINE TO THE RAFTERSMACHINERY WITH MACHINERY®, &SINCE TOOLS 1983! • 2 OVERSEAS• OVER QUALITY A MILLION CONTROL SQUARE OFFICES FEET PACKEDSTAFFED TO WITH THE QUALIFIED RAFTERS WITH GRIZZLY MACHINERY ENGINEERS & TOOLS Summer Sale • HUGE PARTS• 2 OVERSEAS FACILITY WITHQUALITY OVERCONTROL 1 MILLION OFFICES PARTSSTAFFED IN STOCKWITH AT ALL QUALIFIED TIMES GRIZZLY ENGINEERS • TRAINED SERVICE TECHNICIANS AT ALL 3 LOCATIONS • MOST ORDERS SHIP THE SAME DAY March 31Summer - July 31 Sale • HUGE PARTS FACILITY WITH OVER 1 MILLION PARTS IN STOCK AT ALL TIMES March 31 - July 31 • TRAINED SERVICE TECHNICIANS AT ALL 3 LOCATIONS • MOST ORDERS SHIP THE SAME DAY 30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW 30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL 3014"TH DELUXEANNIVERSARY BANDSAW SPECIAL EDITION ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW EDITION30TH ANNIVERSARY17" BANDSAW SPECIAL MADE IN TAIWAN • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, 14" DELUXE BANDSAW EDITION• Motor: 2 HP,17" 110V/220V, BANDSAW single-phase, TEFC • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, MADE IN TAIWAN single-phase, TEFC • Precision-ground cast • Precision-ground• Motor: cast 2 HP, 110V/220V, iron table size:single-phase, 14" sq. TEFC single-phase, TEFC • Precision-ground cast iron table size: 17" sq. • Table tilt: 45º R, 10º L • Table tilt: •45ºPrecision-ground R, 10º L cast iron table size:1 14" sq. • Cutting capacity/throat: 13 ⁄2" iron table size:1 17" sq. • Table tilt: 45º R, 10º L • Cutting capacity/throat: 16 ⁄4" • Max. cutting height: 6" • Table tilt: 45º1 R, 10º L 1 252923 • Max. cutting height: 12 ⁄8" • Cutting capacity/throat: 13 ⁄2" 1 1 1 1 3 • Cutting1 capacity/throat:1 16 ⁄4" • Blade size: 92 ⁄2"–93 ⁄2" L ( ⁄8"– ⁄4" W) • Blade size: 131 ⁄2" L ( ⁄8"–1" W) 1 • Max. cutting height: 6" • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, 252923 8 • Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM • Blade speeds:• Max. 1700 cutting & 3500 height: FPM 12 ⁄ " 1 1 1 3 1 1 • Blade size: 92 ⁄2"–93 ⁄2" L ( ⁄8"– ⁄4" W) single-phase, TEFC • Blade size: 131 ⁄2" L ( ⁄8"–1" W) • Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs. • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, • Quick release blade tension lever • Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM • Precision-ground cast • Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM single-phase, TEFC • Approx. shipping weight: 342 lbs. • Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs. iron table size: 14" sq. • Quick release blade tension lever • Precision-ground cast MADE IN TAIWAN • Table tilt: 45º R, 15º L • Approx. shipping weight: 342 lbs. iron table size:1 14" sq. MADE IN TAIWAN • Cutting capacity/throat: 13 ⁄2" MADE IN TAIWAN • Max. cutting• Table height: tilt: 6" 45º R, 15º L CAST 1 • Cutting1 1capacity/throat:1 3 13 ⁄2" IRON • Blade size: 92 ⁄2"–93 ⁄2" L ( ⁄8"– ⁄4" W) INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDEDMADE IN ALUMINUM TAIWAN CAST • Max. cutting height: 6" 1 • Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM FENCE, MITER GAUGE & ⁄2" BLADE WHEELS 177335 1 1 1 3 IRON • Approx. shipping• Blade weight: size: 92 196⁄2"–93 lbs.⁄2" L ( ⁄8"– ⁄4" W) INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDED ALUMINUM 1 • Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM FENCE, MITER GAUGE & ⁄2" BLADE WHEELS 177335 • Approx. shipping weight: 196 lbs. $ 00 $ 00 G0555LANV 545 $79 $79 G0513ANV 895 $"99 $ 00 $ shipping00 $ 00 $ 00 shipping $ 00 $ 00 shipping SALE 525 lower 48 states G0555P 545 SALE 525 lower 48 states SALE 825 lower 48 states G0555LANV 545 $79 $79 G0513ANV 895 $"99 $ 00 shipping $ 00 $ 00 shipping $ 00 shipping SALE 525 lower 48 states G0555P 545 SALE 525 lower 48 states SALE 825 lower 48 states 10" LEFT-TILTING CONTRACTOR-STYLE 10" HYBRID TABLE SAW 3 HP DUST COLLECTOR 10"TABLE LEFT-TILTING SAW with Riving CONTRACTOR-STYLE Knife 10" HYBRID TABLE SAW • Motor: 3HP, 240V, single-phase,3 HP 3450DUST RPM, 12ACOLLECTOR • Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase 1 • Air suction capacity: 2300 CFM • Motor: 1 ⁄2 HP, 110V/220V,TABLE single-phase SAW with Riving Knife • Precision-ground cast iron table • Static pressure:• Motor: 16.7" 3HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM, 12A • Precision-ground cast iron table with wings • Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase 1 with wings measures: 27" x 40" • Air suction capacity: 2300 CFM • Motor:1 1 ⁄2 HP, 110V/220V,5 single-phase 5 • Precision-ground cast iron table • 7" inlet has removable "Y" fitting MADE IN TAIWAN • Table size: 25 ⁄4" x 40" • Arbor: ⁄8" • Arbor: ⁄8" • Arbor speed: 3850 RPM • Static pressure: 16.7" • Precision-ground cast iron table with wings 1with wings3 measures: 27" x 40" with three 4" openings • Arbor speed: 4000 RPM • Capacity: 3 ⁄8" @ 90˚, 2 ⁄16" @ 45˚ • Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L 1 5 MADE IN TAIWAN 5 • 37" inlet has removable "Y" fitting MADE IN TAIWAN • 1Table size:1 25 ⁄4" x 40" • Arbor: ⁄8" • Arbor: ⁄8" • Arbor speed: 3850 RPM • Impeller: 12 ⁄4" cast aluminum • Capacity: 3 ⁄8" @ 90°, 2 ⁄4" @ 45° • Quick-change riving knife • Cast iron trunnions 1 3 with three 4" openings • Arbor speed: 4000 RPM • Capacity: 3 ⁄8" @ 90˚, 2 ⁄16" @ 45˚ • Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L • Bag capacity: 11.4 cubic feet • Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L MADE IN TAIWAN BEAUTIFUL 3 1 1 • Approx. shipping weight: 416 lbs. • Impeller: 12 ⁄4" cast aluminum • Capacity: 3 ⁄8" @ 90°, 2 ⁄4" @ 45° • Quick-change riving knife • Cast iron trunnions • Standard bag filtration: • Approx. shipping WHITE COLOR! • Bag capacity: 11.4 cubic feet • Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L • Approx. shipping weight: 416 lbs. BEAUTIFUL 2.5 micron weight: • Standard bag filtration: • Approx. shipping WHITE COLOR!• Portable base size: 208 lbs. 1 1 2.5 micron weight: 21 ⁄2" x 49 ⁄2" 247570 • Bag size (dia.• Portable x depth): base size: 208 lbs. 1 1 1 21 ⁄2" x 49 ⁄2" 19 ⁄2" x 33" (2) 247570 • Lower bags:• Bag Plastic size (dia. x depth): FREE 10" INCLUDES BOTH 1 19 ⁄2" x 33" (2) CARBIDE- • Powder coated paint REGULAR • Lower bags: Plastic TIPPED BLADEFREE 10" & DADO BLADEINCLUDES BOTH• Height with bags CARBIDE- • Powder coated paint MADE IN ISO 175370 INSERTS REGULAR inflated: 78" 9001 FACTORY!TIPPED BLADE & DADO BLADE • Height with bags 232857 • Approximate shipping MADE IN ISO 175370 INSERTS inflated: 78" 9001 FACTORY! weight: 170 lbs. 232857 • Approximate shipping weight: 170 lbs. $"99 $"99 $79 $ 00 $ 00 shipping $ 00 shipping $ 95 $ 00 shipping G0732 795 SALE 650 lower 48 states G0715P ONLY 795 lower 48 states G1030Z2P 439 SALE 425 lower 48 states $"99 $"99 $79 $ 00 $ 00 shipping $ 00 shipping $ 95 $ 00 shipping G0732 795 SALE 650 lower 48 states G0715P ONLY 795 lower 48 states G1030Z2P 439 SALE 425 lower 48 states 12" BABY DRUM SANDER 8" JOINTERS 15" PLANERS

1 • Sanding motor: 1 ⁄2 HP, 12"115V, single-phase BABY DRUM SANDER • Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC8" JOINTERS • Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single-phase 15" PLANERS 1 1 2 • Conveyor motor: ⁄8 HP, 115V, single-phase, variable speed • Precision-ground cast iron table size: 9" x 72 ⁄ " • Precision-ground cast iron 1 • Motor: 13 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC1 • Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single-phase • Sanding motor: 1 ⁄2 HP, 115V, single-phase • Max. depth of cut: ⁄8" • Max. rabbeting depth: ⁄2" table size: 15" x 20" 5-55 RPM 1 1 • Precision-ground cast iron table size: 9" x 72 ⁄2" • Precision-ground3 cast iron • Conveyor motor: ⁄8 HP, 115V, single-phase, variable speed • Cutterhead dia.: 3" • Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM • Min. stock thickness: ⁄16" • Drum surface speed: 2127 FPM 1 1 • Max. depth of cut: ⁄8" • Max. rabbeting depth:208624 ⁄2" table size: 15" x 20" 5-55 RPM 1 • Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P), 21,400 (G0656PX) • Min. stock length: 8" • Maximum stock dimensions: 12" wide x 3 ⁄2" thick 3 • Drum surface speed: 2127 FPM • Cutterhead dia.: 3" • Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM • Min. stock1 thickness: ⁄16" • Minimum stock length: 8" • Approx. shipping 208624• Max. cutting depth: ⁄8" 1 • Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P), 21,400 (G0656PX) • Min. stock length: 8" • Maximum stock dimensions: 12" wide x 3 ⁄2" thick weight: 500 lbs. • Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM • Sanding drum size: 4" 177335 1 • Minimum stock length: 8" • Approx. shipping • Cutterhead• speed:Max. cutting depth: ⁄8" • Sanding belt size: 3" x 70" hook & loop weight: 500 lbs. • Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM • Sanding drum1 size: 4" 177335 4800 RPM • Dust collection port: 2 ⁄2" • Cutterhead speed: • Feed rate:• 2.5-17.3Sanding FPM belt size: 3" x 70" hook & loop • Approx. shipping weight: 1 FREE SAFETY 4800 RPM • Dust collection port: 2 ⁄2" 666 lbs. • Approx. shipping PUSH • Approx. shipping weight: weight: 166• Feedlbs. rate: 2.5-17.3 FPM BLOCKSFREE SAFETY • Approx. shipping PUSH 666 lbs. weight: 166 lbs. CHOOSE EITHERBLOCKS 4 HSS KNIVES OR SPIRAL CUTTERHEADCHOOSE EITHER $79 MODEL4 HSS KNIVES OR shipping SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD BUILT-IN lower 48 states 208624 $ GRIZZLY GREEN $ MODEL BUILT-IN MOBILE BASE 150 $ 00 79 shipping shipping MOBILE BASE G0459 695 BUILT-IN lower 48 states lower 48 states 4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD 208624 GRIZZLY GREEN BUILT-IN3 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD MOBILE BASE $ $ 00 $ 00 $ 00 $ $ 00 150 SALE 575 $ 00 G0656P 825 $ MOBILE BASE $ 00 shipping G0459 695 SALE 795 150 G0453P 1125 SALE 1095 lower 48 states 4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD shipping 3 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD lower 48 states POLAR BEAR WHITE $ 00 SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD $ 00 $ 00 $SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD $ 00 $ 00 SALE$ 00 575 $ 00 G0656P$ 00825 SALE$ 79500 150 G0453P$ 001125 SALE$ 109500 G0459P 695 SALE 575 G0656PX 1250 SALE 1225 G0453PXshipping 1750 SALE 1695 lower 48 states POLAR BEAR WHITE SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD G0459P $69500 SALE $57500 G0656PX $125000 SALE $122500 G0453PX $175000 SALE $169500 *To maintain machine warranty, 440V operation requires additional conversion time and a $250 fee. Please contact technical service for complete information before ordering. *To maintain machine warranty, 440V operation requires additional conversion time and a $250 fee. Please contact technical service for complete information before ordering. 14CANWW TECHNICAL SERVICE: 570-546-9663 • FAX: 800-438-5901 14CANWW VIEW VIDEOS AT FOLLOW TECHNICAL3 GREAT SERVICE: SHOWROOMS! 570-546-9663 • FAX: 800-438-5901 grizzly.comVIEW VIDEOS AT US: 3 GREAT SHOWROOMS! FOLLOW grizzly.com US: 16278 BELLINGHAM, WA • MUNCY, PA • SPRINGFIELD, MO webshavings Video Links Tool Reviews www.canadianwoodworking.com/videos/ Trend Diamond Whetstones Barron Dovetail Skil 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw with HydroLock Alignment Board Barron Dovetail Guide NOVA Comet II Versaturn Grinding Accessory

View these reviews and more at: canadianwoodworking.com/reviews 50 Pieces From the Saskatchewan Woodworkers’ Guild’s Recent Milwaukee Knives Exhibition Utility knives are ubiquitous general purpose cutting tools that come in a surprisingly wide Canadian range of styles. They tend to be relatively inexpensive, yet eminently practical. Which Quotes means you can have several conveniently Rob Diemert Slideshow on hand for shop, job site, or home use. We looked at four new knives from Milwaukee Tools, each under $15, and including a life- time warranty. Read more online: canadianwoodworking.com/reviews

Subscribe to our Newsletter Woods to Know Once a month we send out a FREE email newsletter with the latest woodworking Mahogany (Swietenia mahogani & Swietenia macrophylla) news, helpful tips and techniques, contests, promotions, and much more. Over 14,000 readers have signed up. You can too, by visiting our website: View these woods and more at: canadianwoodworking.com/newsletter canadianwoodworking.com/woods-know Free Plan best build Wall Planter: Available as both a double vertical style and a Check out the single horizontal style. Depending on the materi- Woodworking als you use, they section of our forum can be installed for our latest “Best inside the house, Build” thread – a or, as in our case, canoe. This month’s outside. This sim- winner, Art Mulder, ple design can receives a dual also be easily marking gauge from expanded to hold Lee Valley. more pots. To find out more about this project, go to:forum.canadianwoodworking.com View this plan and more at: or simply go to CanadianWoodworking.com and click FORUM. canadianwoodworking.com/free-plans

6 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 community: Saskatchewan

Duncan Birch Cal Isaacson – – Absolutely Green Man Nothing Materials: Basswood. Materials: Pine ring Inspiration: Inspired by mounted vertically. an article on Norwich Inspiration: Made for “A Cathedral’s Green Show About Nothing”. Man carved in stone by John Watlington and Brice the Dutchman in 1415. Saskatchewan Woodworkers’ Guild’s 2014 Show Since 1978, the Saskatchewan Woodworkers’

Guild has organized an annual show to bring Joe Janzen – Saddle Seat Bar Stool its members’ work to the public. A wide array Materials: Maple and walnut with of wooden objects were on display this past oil-based Varathane finish. June. Here’s a sample of what the group created this year. BY ROB BROWN

Mel Genge – Piquant Indigo Materials: Figured West Coast Maple, dye, wipe-on poly. Photos by Trent Watts Photos by Trent

Kevin Brehon – Calling Occupants Materials: Birch finished with Danish oil, wax and acrylic paint. Bob Gander – Diamond-back Rattlesnake Materials: Diamond willow with light wash of acrylic paint and oil.

Leo Fritz – Fresh Fruit Platter Materials: West Coast Big Leaf Maple with Earl Eidem – inlay made from bloodwood. Oriental Square Box Materials: Figured Maple.

Ron Davidson – Nuthatch Materials: Australian Red Cedar, Satin Lacquer.

Go Online for More

RELATED ARTICLES: S.A.W.S. Exhibition (DecJan 2014), RELATED SLIDESHOWS: Camosun College Fine Furniture Exhibit Steve Boechler – Touching Down Materials: Basswood (body and base), acrylic rod SLIDESHOW: 50 Pieces from the Saskatchewan Woodworkers' Guild's recent exhibition (horn), acrylic paint, granite inlay in base. Inspiration: Inspired by the desire to capture beauty and MORE INFO: www.saskwoodguild.ca grace in movement. This piece is 4' high.

8 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Kevin Brehon – That Moment Materials: Apple wood, Springs, Finished with mineral oil and wax. Inspiration: I wanted to capture the moment when the bowl came apart on the lathe. The springs were used to give it a dynamic feel.

Trent Watts – Just An Udder Bowl Series Materials: Manitoba maple, turned, carved, acrylic paint. Inspiration: Working with dairy cattle, as a veterinarian, for many years.

Cal Isaacson – Juvenile Porcupine Materials: Porcupine carved from butternut, mounted on a Caragana branch.

Earl Eidem – Pepper Mill Materials: Black Palm, CA glue, buffing finish.

ROB BROWN [email protected] weekendproject Build a Mandolin Holder This holder will keep your mandolin accessible, while making sure it doesn’t get damaged.

BY ROB BROWN

his was built for a mandolin, but by adjusting the sizes slightly you Tcould easily hold a guitar on it. This project is great as an introduction to veneer work. The flat veneered panel is small, so pressing the veneer will be fairly easy, and finding a small piece of veneer isn’t hard. There is nothing wrong with figured veneer, but be forewarned that burls often have small holes in them that need additional care, and they are fragile. Curly, bird’s eye and many other figures are much easier to work with. Cut the core to rough size – ½" wider and longer than the finished size required. Trim the face and back veneer to the same size as the core with a sharp knife and ruler. When making veneered panels, you should keep them balanced by applying veneer to both the front and the back face. The back veneer doesn’t have to be figured like the face veneer, but it should be about the same thick- ness and density. Cut two cauls from a piece of ¾" Baltic birch plywood, particle board or Photos by Rob Brown Photos by Rob

10 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Materials List Part Ltr Qty T W L Material Base A 1 ¾ 4 ½ 7 ½ Plywood 1 Face / Back Veneer B 2 /32 5 8 Veneer 1 13 Short Headers C 2 /8 /16 4 ½ Solid 1 13 Long Headers D 2 /8 /16 7 ¾ Solid 7 Mandolin Arms E 2 /8 2 6 Solid MDF that are ½" larger in both direc- front end of the arms, sand it smooth, tions than the core. These cauls will and then add the small, carved notches evenly disperse clamping pressure. Also (or another detail you like) to the arms, Even Coating – A simple shop-made spreader cut two pieces of blank paper the same for aesthetics. Place the backboard on will help apply an even coat of glue to the core. size as the cauls. The paper will go your bench and position the arms on Holder between the cauls and the veneer to stop them from bonding to each other if any squeeze-out occurs. You can use many things to spread glue evenly, but I find the easiest is a 2" long piece of wood that has some band- sawn notches cut into it. The notches 1 can be cut just under /8" deep and 3 should be about /16" apart. Get out the glue With all your parts ready, a dry run might be appropriate. Applying glue to the veneer will cause the veneer to immediately buckle. Spread glue on one side of the core, apply the veneer, paper and caul, then do the same to the other side. A few small pieces of low-stick transparent tape will help keep the parts aligned. Now use clamps to press the sandwich together. You don’t need to Cauls & Clamps – With the core and veneers in the center, there is one caul placed on each apply a lot of pressure with each clamp; surface before adding clamps. If you want to spread the pressure out even more, you can use a few I find more clamps, each applying less extra smaller wood cauls under the clamp heads. pressure, is best. Once dry, trim the veneer with a knife and cut the core to size on the table saw. I use a simple jig that I clamp to my rip fence for cutting veneered panels, but you don’t need it as long as you flush up at least one long side before cutting. With your core trimmed to size, rip the solid strips to size and glue them to the top and bottom of the core, then trim them to size when dry. I like to flush up the top and bottom strips with a block plane before adding the sides. Once the sides are attached, plane the strips close to flush, but don’t sand them perfectly flush yet.

Holding arms Cut the Panel to Size – Brown clamps a simple jig to his fence that references off the center of the Cut the two arms to length, with one core to cut veneered panels, but smoothing one edge before cutting the part on the table saw works fine end at a 7° angle. Cut the curve on the too (guard removed for clarity). Trim the Edges – A sharp block plane will bring the solid edge down Add Some Texture – Before assembling the parts, Brown adds some almost flush with the face of the core. small gouge grooves on the insides of the two arms. the board. Lightly draw an outline onto the backboard where arms and drill a hole through the backboard, directly between the arms will go. To determine this, you will have to do some the two arms, so a screw can be used to install the holder on experimentation with your mandolin or guitar to make sure the wall when complete. Sand the three parts, then apply a the arms will hold the instrument properly. Drill two clear- small amount of glue to the angled end of the arms and screw ance holes per arm through the backboard and add matching them in place. pilot holes in back end of the arms, so the wood won’t split. Temporarily fasten the arms to the backboard. Finishing details Position the instrument in place and mark the locations of I applied three coats of polyurethane. When good and dry, I the notches that will be cut into the inside of each arm. With rubbed the finish with 0000 steel wool and wax. The last detail some hand tools cut the notch then check the fit. Remove the is to cut and stick the felt to the notch in the arms, to protect

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12 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 YOU CAN ALWAYS FIND CHEAPER TOOLS. BUT YOU WON’T FIND BETTER ONES.

Attach From the Back – Once the clearance and pilot holes are drilled, use glue and screws to screw the arms on from the back using 2" x #8 screws. the instrument from getting scratched. You can get this from a local craft store or Lee Valley. A single screw, with a cap to cover its head, will fasten the holder to a stud, and you can then put your mandolin or guitar in its new home.

— How do you store and display your mandolin or guitar? Post your ideas on our website, in the comments section below this article.

ROB BROWN rbrown @canadianwoodworking.com It doesn’t get any better than the Excalibur Deluxe Table Router Kit by General International.Fine Coming Events Woodworking called it the best overall table and lift combination.” Popular Woodworking agreed, Welbeck Wood Expo saying, “Four corner-positioned lift Aug 8-9, 2014 screws raise this design above the Welbeck Sawmill competition.” You control all four West Grey, ON corners simultaneously for smooth and precise above-the-table www.welbecksawmill.com height adjustments. The kit includes a 24" x 32" cast-iron table. Quick-engage mobility kit makes it easy to relocate. Full-length Canada Woodworking East 2014 router fence provides tool-free adjustments. Dust collection? Sept 26-27, 2014 Fine Woodworking said we take dust collection to another level. Olympic Stadium To learn more about our entire line of woodworking tools, visit Montreal, QC your nearest dealer or go to www.general.ca. www.masterpromotions.ca *Fine Woodworking 2014 “Tools & Shops”

Woodworks 14 Sept 26-28, 2014 Algonquin College Heritage Centre Perth, ON www.woodworksconference.com

For more woodworking events: www.CanadianWoodworking.com List your club and event FREE. homeimprovement ?INFO: DIFFICULTY – 3/5, LENGTH/TIME – 3/5, COST – 3/5

Build a Solid [yet Playful] Entry Door There are few houses with a truly special entry door. Learn how to create a unique door that can be customized with just about any shape or motif imaginable.

BY ARNIM RODECK Through ongoing feedback between Only when the artistic design is com- the client and myself, this design was plete is it time to think about how the he mandate here was for a eventually solidified. Take some time door will be crafted. For this stage, door that was simple, yet ele- to consider what your perfect door Sketchup is a great option. Each piece gant and majestic. It would would look like well before machining of lumber, as well as each joint, is simu- Talso include some of my cus- any wood. Lots of sketching will be in lated with this CAD tool. This not only tomer’s hallmark symbols, namely the order. At this stage of the project, I pre- helps create a detailed list of materials household cat, a pair of ravens and the fer to focus on the design and the artistic needed, but it also forces one to think nearby ocean. aspects, rather than the construction about the critical construction details. details. Things are too often made to fit One example of these details is how Start with the design the available materials, machines and the door will be glued together. Even The first step was to create a few existing jigs, and this can impede the cre- though the technicalities have been

designs to present to my customer. ation of a truly unique piece. sorted out at the CAD level, I chose Photos by ArnimIllustration Len Churchill Rodeck

14 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 to adapt some of the exact dimensions to accommodate each of the pieces of wood that was carefully selected. The final creation will be dictated by the character of the wood, and not by a three-dimensional design on the com- puter screen. Sidelights The sidelights are made of 3" x 4" stock to ensure the door is held in place solidly. Most of the construction of the sidelights is straightforward; the trick being to ensure the entire appearance comes together nicely. A piece of ply- wood was used to make the template Sidelights – After making the sidelights, Door Joinery – The rails are joined to the stiles for the curved glass and the short curve Rodeck finishes them. Here they are only partially with through mortise and tenons. The final joint rails of the sidelights. I made that now, finished, as the final interior and exterior colours is very strong, and is pleasing to the eye. In this then used it to shape the curved side- are different. photo, the tenons are not machined on the ends of light rails. the rails yet. When the parts were machined, I cut Door construction 1 1 /8" deep x /8" wide rabbets along the For this door I favoured visible joinery; epoxy. This makes for solid, stable and outer exposed edge of the sidelight rails, a traditional through-wedged mortise light construction. The finished thick- so any movement between the rails and and tenon joint. Once assembled, the ness of the panels I made was 2", for a the stiles would go unnoticed. tenon will show through the stile. It’s a number of specific reasons, but I would After machining all the pieces that bit harder to make than a regular mortise recommend making your panels’ finish Solid make up the sidelights, I used large dow- and tenon, but it results in a very strong about 1 ½" to 1 ¾" thick so the groove els to join the sidelight members together and beautiful joint. After breaking out in the door frame can be narrower. This and assembled everything with Titebond the four frame members I cut the mor- results in thicker and stronger groove III interior/exterior adhesive. tises with my mortising machine, then sides in the doorframe. There are many ways to incorporate cut mating tenons on the rails. I break out the plywood panels about [yet Playful] weather stripping into this project. I The door panels are made of a ¾" 1" over finished size in width and length. machined, then attached, weather strip- rigid insulation core with marine qual- I then glued the outer plywood skins ping trim to the front of the sidelights, so ity plywood glued onto each side. I used to the rigid insulation in my vacuum the door would close against it. There is LePage’s PL300 foamboard adhesive for press. When the adhesive was dry, I cut 1 a rabbet in the trim that is made so when this. On top of the plywood is /8" thick the panels to finished size. I needed to the trim is fixed in place there will be an fir veneer, which is fixed in place with be exacting with my tolerances at this appropriately sized gap for the weather stripping to fit into. For this door I sourced the weather-stripping from Draft Seal (www.draftseal.com). I used their DS431 weatherseals. I could have added a rabbet to the door side of the jamb for the door to close against, but generally speaking I would add wood rather than remove material from the workpieces I’m dealing with. A solid sill (I find many commercial ones are not substantial enough) is also crucial to the overall impression of the door. I machined it at this time, out of oak, along with the sash. With the side- lights complete I can now obtain an accurate measurement for the door. I 1 aim for a finished gap of /8" on the sides Plywood Template – A curved template assists in laying out and cutting the curve on the panels of and top, ¼" at the bottom. the door and curved rails of the sidelights. The template can be temporarily fastened to the parts with double-sided tape, then a rout and flush trim bit can be used to trim the workpieces.

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 15 stage. The panels fit in the grooves in the Materials List door stiles and rails, butting right up against Part Ltr Qty T W L Material the inner surface of the groove in the rails Casing A 2 2 ¾ 3 ¾ 91 ½ Solid Fir and stiles, where adhesive helped to lock the panels in place. I then used a router and trim Mull Post B 2 2 ¾ 3 ¾ 88 ¾ Solid Fir 3 bit to shape the panel’s curved edge. I could Sidelight Bottom Rails C 2 2 ½ 13 ½ 7 /8 Solid Fir 1 5 3 now apply the outer /8" veneer to the panels Sidelight Center Rails D 2 2 ½ 6 /8 7 /8 Solid Fir in my vacuum bag and flush trim them. 3 Sidelight Top Rails E 2 2 ½ 5 ¾ 7 /8 Solid Fir The curved glass piece will fit into the 5 5 groove in the stiles, as well as into a groove Sidelight Glass Stops F 1 /8 /8 To Fit Solid Fir 5 5 that needs to be machined into the curved Weather Stripping Trim G 1 /8 /8 To Fit Solid Fir ends of the panels. I used a router with a Sash H 1 2 ¾ 3 ¾ 64 ½ Solid Fir three-wing slotting cutter for this. This piece 3 5 Sill I 1 1 /8 6 ¼ 41 /8 Solid Oak could also be made of wood if you wished. 7 I like to install the handle before assem- Door Stiles J 2 2 ½ 5 ½ 86 /8 Solid Fir bling the door. I find working with one Door Lower Rail K 1 2 ½ 12 41 ¼ Solid Fir smaller piece is much easier than work- Door Upper Rail L 1 2 ½ 5 ½ 41 ¼ Solid Fir ing with a large, heavy door. To complete Door Panel Core Assembly – Foamcore / 1 1 the door machining, I cut /8" deep x /8" Lower M 1 1 ½ To Fit To Fit Plywood / Veneer wide rabbets along the outer exposed edge of the door rails, to hide any future movement. Door Panel Core Assembly – Foamcore / Upper N 1 1 ½ To Fit To Fit Plywood / Veneer Glue-up Filler Strip O 4 To Fit To Fit To Fit Solid Fir The key to a successful glue-up is to pre- pare ahead of time. Make as perfect a joint Hardware List as possible, so the joinery assists in holding the pieces together during assembly. Also Name Qty Size Details Supplier make sure to have a perfectly flat surface on Weather Stripping 1 18' DS431 www.draftseal.com which all the pieces can be assembled. Door Sweep 1 DS343 www.draftseal.com I envision the glue-up process in detail before I actually start doing it. I also fin- ish the panels before gluing everything together, for two reasons. First, the panel of this door called for a different stain than what the door-frame was going to be. The second reason is to visually protect against wood movement. I did not want to see any unfinished lines between the panel and the door stiles/rails as time works its magic. Since the glass is thinner than the two- panel assembly’s filler strips must be used to fill the gap between the left and right sides of the glass panel and the door stiles. Either install them during assembly if your door is unfinished at this stage, or install them before applying a finish. Once the door is glued together, the wedges were inserted into the tenons. When the glue was dry, I machined a groove for the door sweep with my router, Ready for a Finish – With all the machining on the door complete, the panels can be finished, straight bit and edge guide. I also sourced before the door is assembled. the sweep from Draft Seal. I used their DS343 sweep. The outside boasts a pair of ravens Next was to cut a 7° bevel on the handle The artistic touches made of metal (cut by a plasma cutter), side of the door, so the door doesn’t bind Once the door is glued together, it’s taunting the household cat (also made when it’s opened. time to work on the artistic additions. in metal) from the branches above.

16 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 rigid insulation door upper rail marine plywood sash door stile veneer

door stile casing mull post

DOOR PANEL CORE ASSEMBLY CROSS-SECTION

door panel core assembly - upper

sidelight 3 top rail /4"

1 5 /2" 4" saw kerfs for wedges filler 3 3 strips /4" /4"

DOOR UPPER RAIL filler TENON DETAILS strips

3 /4" sidelight glass center door rail panel 3 door panel /4" 4" core assembly - lower 1 1 /2" saw kerfs 12" for wedges 4"

3 4 /4"

DOOR LOWER RAIL TENON DETAILS door lower rail sidelight bottom rail sill

7° bevel

1 5 /2" 3 tenon /4" 3 door mull post wedges 4 /4"

1" 1 weather- /4" stripping rail stile

DOOR RAIL TENON trim DETAILS

ASSEMBLY CROSS-SECTION

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 17 Natural Details – To bring some of the natural world into this door, Rodeck cuts and shapes two ravens out of wood (left), then adds them to the door (right).

For ease of future clean-up I simply screwed these figures After making the mortises for the door hinges, entry set onto the door panels. To ensure the cat is properly level with and automatic door sweep, the piece was ready for a final the door panel I routed the tail into the bottom door rail – sanding. I sanded all parts of the entry down to 220 grit, practical, yet also aesthetically pleasing. then covered the panels and prepared the door sidelights. On the inside of the door, the tables are turned; the cat rules An added challenge with this design was that each door the roost as the ravens conspire below. These pieces are cut side had a different stain. To address this challenge, I cov- out of walnut and eastern maple. The cat is made as an intar- ered one door side while spraying the other. I used Bomol sia; that is, composed of different pieces of wood. I cut these Cedar as a topcoat, but there are many good finishes pieces on a scroll saw and then sand them accordingly. Then available. an appropriate texture is also carved onto each of the pieces. The ravens are made of one piece, carved for fitting texture Door installation and then stained dark. Any fine craftsman wants to avoid excessive fine-tuning on The precise shape of each of these creatures is meticulously site. For this reason, I fully assembled the door and the side- routed into the door panels so each one is shallowly inserted lights in my workshop first, testing for the proper operation 1 about /8" deep. This ensures no glue spill-over will happen and of all parts. For example, I made sure the door was the same provides a tight fit. distance from each of the jambs/sidelights, and that the door A personal quote is also carved into the outer door stile. opened smoothly and closed perfectly on the encompassing The next critical part is finishing the rest of the door. weather-stripping. The only thing I left for the installation was establishing the exact position of the door latch. This was done on-site in order to get a perfect closing on the weather-stripping. A smooth yet secure close is the mark of honed expertise. On site, the sidelights were assembled first on a flat sur- face, then the assembly was inserted into the door opening and screwed in place. This included making sure local code requirements are satisfied, as well as making sure everything was plumb. Finally, the door itself was hung. A little more fine-tuning ensured the door did not swing closed on its own.

Nice and Strong – Once the door is assembled, Rodeck glues A Watchful Cat – To add a playful element, an intarsia cat is added to contrasting wedges into the slots in 1 the interior side of the door, above the ravens. Rodeck routes a /8" deep the tenons. This helps lock the joint cavity into the door’s surface and glues the cat into it. On the exterior side of in place and creates a nice-looking the door, the opposite is the case; the cat is down on the ground, while the detail. Once dry, the joint can be birds watch from up in a tree. trimmed flush.

18 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 The long-awaited moment has arrived. Installation complete, it’s time to step back and admire this unique door from inside and out. Always learning After every project I take the time to look back and reflect on how the project went. Did I learn something new? What is working, and what can be improved? This design worked well; the door gives an excellent impres- sion and is always a conversation piece. From the construction perspective, the glue-up and installation also went very well. This project again confirms for me the importance of properly envisioning the details ahead of time, then taking the time to double-check them before final installation. A key thing to consider is the wood itself. Though I used kiln-dried wood, it wasn’t dry enough to crystallize all the sap. A Quote – A personal quote was added to the Once exposed to the sun, it started leaking sap. Fortunately, outside of the door’s stile before the finish was this is relatively easy to clean, and once all the sap leaked out, applied. there were no more problems. Next time, I intend to pre-finish a few pieces and leave them in the sun to observe their behav- iour before constructing the door. ARNIM RODECK [email protected]

Go Online for More After a career working as an electrical engineer, Arnim wanted to RELATED ARTICLES: Entrance Doors (AugSept 2008), simplify things. He now crafts one-of-a-kind entry doors with basic hand Door Surrounds (AugSept 2008) and power tools in Maple Bay, BC. You can see more of his doors at www.shamawood.com.

® MOP ® TORNADO GET A LIBMAN

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 19

FULL GRADIENTS

This design concept contains certain creative reference materials which may not be used until permission of or rights transferred from its author or creator is received. No rights are hereby transferred or conveyed as a result of providing this design concept to client. 1 2550_0005_010_Logos_tb 05.07.12 Canadianquotes Name, age – Rob Diemert, 61 Location & size of studio – My backyard in Dundas, Ontario, 16x32ft Education – Four-year cabinet-maker appren- ticeship, Diploma in furniture from Sheridan Rob College How long have you been building furniture? I started making furniture in 1975 as Diemert an apprentice in a one-man shop with …on shaping solid wood, a Swiss master cabinetmaker near Collingwood, Ontario. interacting with creative What sort of furniture do you people and new, digital specialize in? I like all sorts of furniture, especially technologies in woodworking. chairs. BY ROB BROWN If you were not a furniture maker what would you be? Luthier or musician. Do you prefer hand tools or power tools? Hand tools. Solid wood or veneer? Both, depends upon the design. Lately it has been more solid wood. Figured wood or straight grain? Most of my work uses straight grain, but sometimes the design has allowed for more texture, contrast, and figure. Inherited Vintage Stanley Sweetheart or fresh-out-of-the-box Veritas? I enjoy both, old and new, the quality of some hand tools being made today is bet- ter than the vintage. Flowing curves or geometric shapes? Most of my work incorporates curves as a design consideration and challenge.

Curved Cabinets – Diemert made these bubinga and ebony Fun to Make – One of cabinets for a solo exhibit, Diemert’s newest creations after being inspired by a is ‘Jack in the Pulpit’. It took piece of furniture one of him a long time to make, his clients had. That same but he always enjoys the client bought these pieces challenge of working with afterwards. (Photo by curved parts. (Photo by

Jeremy Jones) Owen Colborne) ColborneLead Photo by Owen

20 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014  In the near future, makers will learn to use and adapt digital technologies in new and more creative ways, which will also quotes influence their design work, as well as  their production. Hopefully, global oppor- I’ve been fortunate to work in a cou- tunities and markets, and the increase of ple of very well equipped co-operative Most of my business came through internet sales and promotion, will also studios over the years, but today I’m publicity, referrals, word of mouth, and benefit Canadian makers in the future. shoe-horned into a 16 x 32 ft. garage exhibitions. that I rebuilt. In making the transition I  had to sell most of my larger equipment.  Critical design awareness in general, Most people presume I use the studio at I would usually invite the customer the encompassing digital revolution, and the college to do my own work, but col- to my studio during fabrication so I ethical choices that demonstrate respect lege policy strictly forbids this. could show them some of the complex for the environment have all been big  forms or jigs I made that enabled me changes to the world of studio furniture to produce a single component of their making in recent decades. When I was designing and making project. If they couldn’t visit, I would furniture for a living, I was very regi- send them pictures to help keep them  mented. I worked non-stop, seven days informed of the complexities and rein- I still enjoy the hands-on nature of a week. force their commitment to the project. the work, working through the concept,   design, and fabrication of an object, bringing an idea to fruition. I really enjoy shaping solid wood by I think on-going studio furniture exhibi- hand with carving chisels, rasps, and tions, displays, magazine articles, books,  spoke shaves and designing specialty on-line exhibitions, etc. will help spread A prototype for a chair that I recently jigs that produce accurate joints. I also the word of studio furniture in Canada. made, “Jack in the Pulpit”, was a very self- enjoy making curved forms, making Unfortunately, most commissioned indulgent piece that took a long time to specialty jigs and using the veneer press. studio furniture goes directly to the cus- complete; however, I ended up surprising tomer’s home without ever being seen or myself and enjoying the drawn-out process  appreciated by the general public. for a change. I usually go through a stage in I get most of my design inspiration  which I hate a piece that takes too long to from nature, architecture, furniture complete. This chair, like others I’ve made, history, music, and interaction with cre- There is a community of recent went through quite a few iterations at the ative people. Sheridan furniture graduates who are mock-up or prototype stages. The concept pumping a lot of new energy into the was simple, a lounge chair that looks com-  Toronto scene as designers and mak- fortable and inviting enough to make the Living within the GTA, with its arts ers. I have a lot of respect for any maker viewer want to test it out. and design scene, has influenced my who has the passion and drive to tackle Design influences ranged work. such a demanding business in today’s from the common economic climate. Canada has some of Muskoka Chair to Finn  the world’s best studio furniture mak- Juhl’s “Chieftain Chair”. ers. A prime example is Heidi Earnshaw. I usually start the design process with She has reached a point in her career drawings, accurately scaled models, and and she exudes confidence and mastery ROB BROWN full-size mockups. rbrown@ with her sense of modernist design cou- canadianwoodworking.com  pled with an unrivalled skill as a maker. Scott Eckert also has that same comfort- Don’t start making the object until able stance, an incredible designer with Go Online for More the design has been thoroughly problem impeccable skill as a maker. Rob Akroyd solved and true to its concept. is another Toronto maker who has done SLIDESHOW: Rob Diemert (June/July remarkable work in a small studio within 2014), Heidi Earnshaw (Apr/May 2014),  the Distillery District. I also like the work Reed Hansuld (Dec/Jan 2014) I think “California round-over style” of Robin Speke and Tomas Klein, who PAST ARTICLE: 14 Practical Steps to is basically a lazy and over-used edge moved to Canada 15 years ago with a Designing Furniture (Apr/May 2012) treatment. sound furniture business plan.

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 21 topten

Renovating or remodeling makes both practical and economic sense. It’s a great way to Top enhance the look 10 of your home, and DIY also increase its Makeover Ideas resale value.

BY CARL DUGUAY Change the Flooring The quickest method is to install a floating floor as it isn’t nailed or glued down. enovation projects generally involve mainte- Other options suitable for the DIYer include engineered flooring, solid wood, cork, nance, repair, and upgrading; such as painting bamboo, vinyl, and tile. For basement and garage floors, paint-on epoxy works well. Ror refacing kitchen doors. These are the kind of projects that avid DIYers can typically undertake them- Reface Kitchen Cabinets selves. Remodeling projects, on the other hand, usually The kitchen is the most used room in most homes, and is, by far, the room that involve changing the design of your home, and can be has the greatest impact when you sell. The most visible surfaces in the kitchen much more time-consuming and expensive. Examples are the cabinets. Unless the carcasees are damaged, you can breathe new life include adding a sunroom or redesigning a kitchen. into the kitchen simply by replacing the doors, drawers, and handles. Paint the Walls Replace Countertops Painting is one of easiest and least expensive ways to dramati- Laminate countertops are the least expensive, and probably the most com- cally change the look of the inside and outside of your home. mon. However, they aren’t the most economical over the long term. Consider It’s worth taking the time to patch gouges and fill holes before solid surface tops like Corian or engineered stone (quartz). you begin. Remember to wash the walls before painting. Replace Sinks/Faucets Replace the Baseboards A new sink and faucets is a great way to energize a kitchen or bathroom, and Living and dining rooms look so much better with prominent the best time to replace them is when you replace the countertops. You’ll be sur- baseboards. A perfect time to redo trim is when repaint- prised at how easy it is. While you’re at it, replace the showerhead. ing. Replace those tiny 2" baseboards with more compelling baseboards. If you’re really looking to add an aura of refined Add a Backsplash elegance, install crown moulding. The transition from the back of the countertops up to the base of the cabinets can often look bland. Adding a backsplash in ceramic or glass tile can really set Upgrade Light Fixtures your kitchen apart. You’ll need to rent a wet-cutting tile-saw, and make sure to Contractors typically install the least expensive, and seemingly buy about 15 percent extra tile for waste and practice cuts. most bland light fixtures, they can source. Replace old ceiling fixtures with ones that complement your decor, and consider Install a Deck installing outdoor lighting to enhance your home’s appearance With summers so short in most of Canada, people love to be outside on warm, and illuminate the entrance or walkway. sunny days. A deck can become an extension of your home. Building a new deck takes more planning and a bigger Replace Doors commitment of time than most of the other projects in this An appealing front door says “welcome” to your guests and list, but it’s not overly complicated. Don’t forget to get a makes an influential impression on prospective buyers. And building permit if required. don’t neglect the back door, particularly if it opens onto a patio or porch. This is also a good time to upgrade the door trim. CARL DUGUAY [email protected] Photo by www.houzz.com

22 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 THE TS 55 REQ THE FIRST CUT IS THE FINISH CUT.

Achieve clean, splinter-free, glue-ready, straight, precise cuts every time. The TS 55 REQ track saw does the work of a circular saw, table saw, miter saw, panel saw and radial arm saw in one unbelievable, take-anywhere power tool. Learn more at festoolcanada.com.

FS13029_CanadaWoodwork_1213.indd 1 11/27/13 4:35 PM finerdetails Coopered Doors A coopered door is simply one that is curved: concave, convex or, when you combine the two, serpentine. Adding a coopered door can make an amazing difference to a common square cabinet.

BY JASON KLAGER

here are a few ways to achieve a coopered door. The easiest is to find a board that is naturally cupped. Since most of us aren’t so lucky, a second way is to Tcut the curve out of a thick piece of stock. With this Plane some angles method, the height of your door will be limited to the resaw I like a subtle curve for my doors, but the intensity of the height of your bandsaw. As well, when removing more wood curvature is a matter of personal taste. The curve is formed from one side than the other, the wood may move or check. by a series of angles located between each of the strips. Begin The most effective method is to cut several strips out of a single by hand-planing out the saw marks on each strip. Continue board and join them back together again to form a curve. This method is ideal for making any size of door, and for preserving grain graphics or colour. Making the door before the rest of the cabinet frees you from having to follow exact dimensions and will give you room to make future adjustments such as straightening or positioning graphics. Choosing a board with unique colour, a shimmering curl, or maybe one that’s spalted creates a door that will provide a clear and distinct focal point for the cabinet. You can achieve a calmer appearance to the front of the door by joining several pieces of quarter-sawn material. Using quarter-sawn material also creates a very stable door, and unlike flat-sawn material, Glue-Up – It’s much easier to glue up parts in mating pairs, especially the joints can easily be hidden between grain lines. Once your with heavily curved panels. In stages, glue the parts together, then bring board is milled up, rip the board into several strips, each 1 ½" to the two halves of the panel together using curved cauls and clamps. 2" wide. Remember to slightly widen any strips around areas of With heavily curved doors it might be necessary to use small clamps prized colour or graphics. Using a bandsaw for this procedure is perpendicular to the main clamps, to ensure the panel doesn’t pop out of

ideal and will reduce the kerf width between pieces. the clamps. Klager Photos by Jason

24 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Curved Sanding – A sanding block with matching curved bottom is great for Convex Surfaces – Use a flat handplane to add a smooth curve into the convex face of the coopered smoothing concave surfaces. They are easy to panel (left). To check the overall curve of the panel, use a flexible steel ruler to locate the high spots (right). make and work best with cork on their face. hand-planing along the edge of the strips, forming your desired After the door is glued together, it is time to begin shaping angle. Start small, slowly increasing your angle and checking and, if necessary, adjusting the curved profile. To prevent the your progress by placing the entire door into a set of clamps. door from rocking and stressing the joints during the shaping Continue to make adjustments until you are left with a pleasing process, place a few shims under the door. The concaved sur- curve. Before adding glue, make sure that each joint fits together face of the door can be smoothed and shaped using a coopered with only finger pressure. Perform a dry run by placing the entire bottom handplane. I use a Krenovian-style handplane with a door in the clamps and check to make sure that the joints are sole whose radius is slightly greater than the door’s curve. A tight on both sides. Take the time to adjust each adjacent strip so flat-soled handplane is used for shaping and smoothing the the grain lines run parallel to each other. This is a perfect way to convex surface of the door. When sanding the concave face of help conceal joint lines. When finished, place a cabinetmaker’s the door, make and use a sanding block with a curved bottom triangle over the entire door, which can be used as a helpful ref- that matches the concave profile and pad the bottom of the erence when gluing up. In order to ensure equal pressure along block with cork. all of the joints of the door, you should use angled cauls, padded with cork or matting, in the clamping procedure. Installation Installing a coopered door is very much the same as install- The glue-up ing a flat door, with a few special points to remember. First, Gluing the door together is completed in stages. For exam- place your finished door between the top and bottom of your ple, if you have a door with eight pieces, you would first join cabinet opening so you can trace the curve profile of the door the outer pairs together and the inner pairs together. Next, join into the carcase. The carcase can then be shaped to match the completed pairs together, on each side, forming two halves the curve of the door. Second, if you want the door to sit in of the door. The final glue-up involves joining the two halves front of the sides, change the front edge of the sides from 90° down the center of the door. Expect to also make some minor to an angle that matches the inside profile of the door. Lastly, adjustments with your handplane along the way. Your hand- installing a set of knife hinges will be less time consuming and plane is also useful for cleaning up excess glue from the joint, visually less distracting than a pair of butt hinges. allowing you to determine if the joint is tight before moving Along with providing a little extra space to the interior of a onto the next glue-up. cabinet, a coopered door will subtly and gently modify the out- side appearance of any cabinet. This method, if learned and applied, will open the door to other possibilities such as making coopered panels, sides or other desired surfaces.

The Right Hinge – Simple and clean, knife hinges are perfect for many doors, including most coopered doors.

Straight, Square and Curved – A cross-cut sled on your table JASON KLAGER saw is the perfect place to trim the coopered panels’ edges. [email protected]

CanadianWoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 25 turningproject ?INFO: DIFFICULTY – 3/5, LENGTH/TIME – 3/5, COST – 2/5 Turn a SAUERACKER This is one of those turning projects that looks much harder than it is. With a little patience, you, and the finished piece, can come out SHELL looking pretty smart. BY LISA CHEMERIKA

was looking through Google images and came across a picture that captivated me. It Iwas called a Saueracker shell. As I researched it further, I came across its origin. JEH Saueracker was a German ornamental turner working in Nuremberg in the early 1900s. I have not been able to get any more information on his work other than what is published in Mike Darlow’s Woodturning Methods. I just had to try it. I used 2" thick material, but it’s possible to use thinner stock. The size of the finished shell depends on the diameter that can be turned on your lathe. Inboard I can turn a 16" diameter backer, which results in about a 9" shell, the flutes of which turn in a clockwise direction. Outboard on my lathe I can turn up to a 24" backer, which results in a shell about 14", the flutes of which turn in a coun- ter-clockwise direction. These pictures show you how I made the larger shell, but the directions are the same no mat- ter what size you are turning, inboard

or outboard. I used a 12" face-plate to Photos by Lisa Chemerika (Lead Photo Don Kondra)

26 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 mount the assembly on, but you could adopt the technique to your favourite chucking method. I chose to use the same wood for the shell and the crescent so that they could be used as companion pieces. If you have no use for the crescent part, you can use any scrap wood of the same depth and throw it away later. If the scrap crescent is less dense than the shell, you may have to use some counter- balances to even out the balance of the assembly in order to turn it smoothly. Three Layers – Chemerika glued ¾" thick plywood to the back of the workpiece, so there would be no screw holes in the Glue up a blank finished piece. Paper, glued between the plywood and workpiece A past purchase from a fellow allows the two to be easily separated afterwards. CW&HI forum member (delivered by another forum member) had rewarded me with some 2" bloodwood. I glued it Lay Out the into a 24" square, 2" thick panel. Then Shell – The circles I glued on a ¾" plywood waste piece, for the backer and with paper in between, so I would not the shell are now have any screw holes directly into my laid out. Notice that bloodwood. the distance from The 24" circle is laid out with the 14" the center of the circle that will become the shell, within backer to the close it, nearly touching the outside circle. You edge of the shell want to leave enough room where the determines how circles almost meet to be able to turn the large the center whole assembly round and balanced on ‘eye’ is. the lathe without cutting into your shell 1 – between /8" and ¼" is good. Next, cut out both of the circles, trying to stick to your lines as accurately as possible. The gap in the crescent can have its edges cut so it is about 1" wide, making it easy to center your indexing mark. The shell must be able to rotate within the larger crescent-shaped piece. If you can’t turn it, sand it until you can. You want the smallest gap possible between the shell and the crescent moon, as the bigger the gap, the more the wood will chip while you’re turning. Layout On the plywood back of your shell, lay out a circle with a radius ¾"–1" smaller than the shell. Now use dividers to mark equal distances around the cir- cumference of the circle about 1 ¼" apart. Mark them off in a counter clockwise direction from the #1 index mark for outboard turning (clockwise for inboard turning). These index- Index Marks – Once you have the inner circle drawn on the shell backer, and the marks drawn about ing points determine how far you will 1 ¼" apart you can connect the center of the shell with each of these marks to create the different index rotate your shell for each new flute you marks. These marks only need to be on half of the shell blank.

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 27 Extend the Index Marks – Use a square to extend the index marks to the Mount the Parts – The shell is placed back into the crescent moon with side of the shell blank. the #1 index mark centered on the crescent moon gap. It can now be secured to the faceplate. Hot-melt glue can be added to help secure the parts. turn. Wider indexing points will produce fewer, larger flutes, and vice versa. Attach the work-pieces Draw a line from the center of your shell to the outside edge, Place the shell back into the crescent moon and center the through each of the indexing points, then continue these lines #1 index mark in the gap of the crescent moon. Center your down the edge of the shell blank. It helps if you number them lathe faceplate on the plywood side of your assembly and to remember where you are. The #1 index mark will be exactly screw the faceplate on with all of the screw holes used into opposite the eye of your shell, so take that into consideration if the crescent moon and the shell, keeping the indexing mark you want the grain to run in a certain direction. centered in the gap of the crescent moon. I filled any gaps on the back of the plywood assembly between the shell and the crescent moon with hot glue so that centrifugal force does not move the shell towards the gap. Start turning Mount the faceplate on your lathe and turn on the lathe at your lowest speed. Cut the outer edge of the assembly round so it will run as smoothly as possible. To mark the eye on the face of the shell, turn the lathe off and rotate the assembly by hand. Mark the eye at the inner part of the shell, with the circle running completely on the shell, but touching the outside edge of the shell. The radius of the eye will be determined by the distance the outside edge of the eye is from the center point of your 24" assembly. When you turn the lathe on, you can start to shape the eye’s interior. I used a skew in a scraping position for all of the cuts. You can also shape the eye’s exterior by making a rounded V-shaped cut. Turn the lathe off from time to time to check that you have the deepest part of the V still centered on the outside edge of the shell. When you’re happy with the size and depth of both the inside and outside cut of the eye, you’re ready to move onto the next flute. You will not be able to go back to this point easily, so sand this entire V-groove now. To move to the next flute, you will have to take the assembly off the lathe, unscrew the shell portion from of the faceplate, and align the next indexing mark. I used hot glue to help the shell portion stay in place when mounting it on the lathe, so I used a jigsaw to cut between the shell and the crescent, in order to detach the shell from the crescent. Center the next index- ing mark in the gap of the crescent, remount it to the faceplate then add some hot glue.

28 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 The Eye – The first cut is made, and the ‘eye’ of the shell is shaped. Notice the outer edge of the eye ends at the outer edge of the shell.

Mark the Eye – With the faceplate on the lathe you can spin the lathe by hand and locate the center point. Mark it with a dot, as seen here. With your writing utensil on the tool rest, and lined up with the outer edge of the shell circle, rotate the workpiece, creating the outline of the ‘eye’.

To mark the next flute, with the lathe turned off, put your pencil on the lower-right edge of the eye and turn the lathe by hand, keeping the pencil on the same spot on the tool rest. This will show you the path your tool will cut for the next flute. Turn the lathe on and make the rounded V-groove. Continue to rotate the blank, mark out each new flute and create the V-groove this way. You can try to start each flute in exactly the same position, but I found this was quite difficult. I chose to try to end the cut for each flute in equal increments to the right side of the eye. As you look through the photos of the different shells, you will see that no two are the same, as far as where the flutes start. I don’t think it really matters so long as they look pleasing to your eye. Counter-weights The counter-balances are added as needed to keep the lathe V-Groove – With the ‘eye’ formed create a mirror cut on the opposite side of running as smoothly as possible. They need to be moved the eye’s edge, creating a even V-groove. Now that the first flute is complete and adjusted as you change the position of the shell and you should sand it smooth.

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 29 The Second Flute – Once the shell has been rotated to the second index Getting Closer – At this point about half of the flutes are done, and the mark you can mark the second flute with white pencil crayon, and cut the shell is starting to take shape. second flute. take away some of the weight. I just screwed scrap pieces as the assembly will not drift from any place you turn it. Make needed onto the plywood back. By loosening the belt from sure the counter-balances will not come into contact with any the motor, the assembly tends to rotate until its heaviest point of your lathe. Give the lathe a test spin by hand before turn- is down. If the counter-balances are close to the right spots, ing it on. Continue to cut each flute and turn the shell until you have reached the last flute on the outside edge of the shell. Dismount the assembly from the lathe, remove the faceplate and separate the shell from the crescent for the last time. Remove the plywood backer from each piece.

Counter-weights – Chemerika used a few counter-weights on the back of the shell to account for the wood that has been removed from the shell.

30 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Shape the Edge – You can either leave the perimeter of the shell round or highlight each section of the shell by removing some material with the bandsaw. If chipping is bad, removing material will go a long way to cleaning things up.

chipping off. Sand and finish the piece. There is a lot of end grain in the finished piece. The more time you take to properly sand it, and apply the finish, the nicer your fin- ished shell and crescent are. So now you’re asking yourself, “what is it?” The shell and crescent can be a very striking wall accent. The shell could also be the lid of a box, or an appliqué or inlay on a piece of fur- niture. Maybe it is just a challenge that you can be proud of Final Flute – With one last flute to be cut the end is near. You can see the completing. final white line on the upper, right side of the workpiece, which will guide Chemerika during the last cut. — What would you do with this shell? Share your ideas on our website, in the comments Shape the edges section below this article. You can further shape the ends of the flutes with the bandsaw, or leave the shell perfectly round. If you had problems with the LISA CHEMERIKA outside edge of the shell chipping, shaping will cut most of the [email protected]

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 31 shopessentials The quality of a cut is largely determined by the saw blade you’re using, and how you’re using it. For most woodworkers, selecting a blade is where the mystery begins. Let’s remove the mystery and provide you with the information needed to select the correct saw blades for your next project.

BY ROGER HAMBLEN

aws date back at least to the Egyptians, who used copper hand- saws up to half a metre long. The SGreeks and Romans improved the Selecting basic design by introducing wooden frames to support the blade. They also set the saw teeth alternately in order to get a more accu- and Using a rate and easier cut. The big breakthrough came after 1650, when the process of rolling wide strip steel was developed in Sheffield and Holland. Wider bladed saws made it possible to do away with the wooden frame, and the steel handsaw, as we know it, was born. It was discovered along the way that different blades were needed for different SAW cuts. As furniture and joinery work became finer and more detailed, specialist saws were developed to help the craftsmen achieve the desired effect. Sash, tenon and dovetail saws with thinner blades, finer teeth and a steel or brass strengthening bar or back began to appear. Rip-cutting a long board using a BLADE handsaw was labour-intensive and a blade was needed to make the job go faster and easier. Along came the rip-cut saw. It was discovered that cross-cutting a board using

a rip-cut saw was far less than satisfactory (Illustrations by Len Churchill) Brown Photos by Rob

32 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 Blade Terminology: Cut your Teeth

Gullets – The space cut out from the blade plate between the teeth of a saw blade. The gullets provide room C for chips and waste to be removed from the cut. F A. Gullet B B. Tooth RIP Teeth – The teeth of a blade can be configured in a C. Hook Angle variety of ways including flat top, alternate top bevel, com- D. Kickback Limiter bination tooth, and triple-chip grind. E. Expansion Slot D A F. Kerf Hook Angle – The amount that a saw blade tooth G. Blade Plate either tips toward or away from the direction of the blade rotation. G saw cut Kickback Limiters – Between each tooth of a blade E profile with kickback limiters is a hump, designed to limit the amount that the tooth following the hump will make con- tact with the wood. Expansion Slots – Some saw blades have slots to make room for blade plate expansion due to heat caused by friction. Kerf – The cut width a saw blade makes in material. Blade Plate – Saw blade plates are usually made of hardened steel, which is tensioned to prevent blade “wobble” at high RPM.

CROSSCUT

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Woodworking_subad_junejuly2014.indd 1 2014-06-02 8:06 AM COMBINATION

saw cut profile C F A. Gullet B B. Tooth RIP C. Hook Angle D. Kickback Limiter E. Expansion Slot D A F. Kerf G. Blade Plate

G saw cut E profile

C F A. Gullet B B. Tooth RIP CROSSCUT C. Hook Angle D. Kickback Limiter E. Expansion Slot D A F. Kerf G. Blade Plate

G saw cut saw cut E profile Alternate profile Flat Top (FT) Top Bevel (ATB) Flat-top teeth (also known as ‘rakers’) are found on solid wood rip- ping blades. Since wood is much less likely to chip and splinter when “Alternate top bevel” means that the saw blade teeth alternate it is being cut with the direction of the grain, the focus of a rip blade between a right- and left-hand bevel. This tooth configura- is to quickly and efficiently remove material. The downside of this tion gives a smoother cut when cross-cutting solid woods and blade is that it does not produce a clean cut. If you don’t mind a veneered plywood. The alternating beveled teeth form a knife-like roughCROSSCUT cut, a 24-tooth blade will do the trick. For a bit more precision, TRIPLEedge on CHIP either side of the blade and make a clean cut. The teeth increase the tooth count to 40 or 50. on ATB blades are angled so that they lean away from the blade plate on both sides, allowing the blade to shear wood fibres cleanly. Most ATB blades have between 40 and 100 teeth. Since so along came a cross-cut saw. We now have the basis for a a steeper angle means a more precise cut, some manufacturers rip-cut blade and a cross-cut blade and this knowledge was have started to create a new category of blade: High Alternate transferred to circular blades. saw cut Top Bevel (HiATB). This configuration is used for extra-finesaw cross- cut The first circular saw was invented in 1777 and is creditedprofile cutting and to cut materials surfaced with melamine, whichprofile is to Samuel Miller of England. Miller created a metal disk prone to chipping. The high bevel angle increases the knife-like with teeth around its edge, and discovered that at fast speeds action at the edge of the blade. The downside is that steeper the disk was very adept at cutting. His spinning saw blade angles tend to dull faster.

would eventually be used in sawmills to cut lumber. It did not use electricity, and it was not portable. From the saw- Sign Up for our free mill concept came a number of inventions that would allow TRIPLE CHIP anCOMBINATION individual to cut lumber without the need to take lumber woodworking newsletters and to the mill. One company that marketed table-mounted saws was W.R. e-mail notification of special buys. & John Barnes, of Rockford, Illinois. Its design was similar to a sewing machine; the user would pump a pedal to make the blade spin. These treadle-power designs were sold as early as saw cut 1878. In 1922, Raymond Dewalt created the first circularsaw cut saw profile profile with a radial arm. Art Emmons, of Porter Cable, invented the first portable circular saw in 1929. His saw used a helical drive with an electronic motor. Four main types of blades A) Rip-cut blade B) Cross-cut blade C) Combination blade D) Triple-chip grind blade COMBINATION Visit us at www.leevalley.com/newsletter Hook angle The “hook angle”, also commonly referred to as the and sign up today. “rake angle”, is a term used to describe the direction of the blade’s teeth, as compared to the rotation and central saw cut 1-800-683-8170 profile axis of a saw blade. If you drew a line through the cen- www.leevalley.com1-800-683-8170 www.leevalley.com ter of the blade and extended it to the cutting edge of each tooth, and the cutting edge of each tooth fell exactly on the

cww email34 sign CANADIAN up 1089.indd WOODWORKING 1 & HOME IMPROVEMENT 3/30/2011 11:29:09 AM August/September 2014 C F A. Gullet B B. Tooth RIP C. Hook Angle D. Kickback Limiter E. Expansion Slot D A F. Kerf G. Blade Plate

G saw cut E profile

C F A. Gullet B CROSSCUT B. Tooth RIP C. Hook Angle D. Kickback Limiter E. Expansion Slot D A F. Kerf G. Blade Plate

G saw cut saw cut E profile profile

TRIPLE CHIP CROSSCUT

saw cut saw cut profile profile

COMBINATION TRIPLE CHIP

saw cut saw cut Combination profile Triple-Chip Grind profile Tooth (ATBR) (TCG) The combination configuration is designed to do both cross-cutting and ripping. It generally has about 40 teeth, but these blades can The TCG configuration excels at cutting hard materials like laminates, have as many as 120 teeth. The teeth are generally organized in sets MDF, and plastics. Teeth alternate between a flat raking tooth and a of five and each set has four ATB teeth followed by a raker tooth. The higher “trapeze” tooth. The TCG configuration is also used for non- ATB teeth aid in severing the wood’s fibres, while the raker tooth is ferrous metal cutting blades. COMBINATION designed for removing large particles of wood. This type of blade is ideal if you do a combination of ripping and cross-cutting. A good- quality combination blade now rivals the quality of cut of both the line, then this would be a zero-degree hook angle. A posi- rip blades and cross-cut blades. A good-quality combination blade is tive hook angle would mean that the tops of the teeth are used by many for cutting hard wood, soft wood, plywood, melamine angled towards the direction of rotation, while a nega-

and MDF with satisfactory results. The main advantage of a combina- tive hook angle would mean they are angled away sawfrom cut the tion blade is that you spend less time changing blades and more time direction of rotation. The higher the hook angle (positiveprofile cutting. It’s also easier on the pocketbook. Keep in mind that specific hook), the more aggressive and faster the saw blade will blades designed for specific cuts or material may be the way to go if cut; however, the trade-off is a rougher cut. Hook angles of you plan to make a lot of the same cuts using the same material. more than 20° should only be used for ripping. A negative

Lee Valley Annual Hardware Catalog • Browse it online at www.leevalley.com • Add it to your next order • Download it to your iPad® 1-800-683-8170 www.leevalley.com Hook Angle – Different hook angles are appropriate for cutting different materials. Generally speaking, a positive hook angle (top) will cut faster, but leave a rougher surface. A negative hook angle (bottom) will produce a slower, but smoother cut.

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 35 Expansion Slots – Many blades have expansion slots (left) to allow the blade to expand and contract slightly, without throwing the blade out of true.

Large Carbide – Premium blades (right) will generally have larger, higher quality carbide teeth, and can therefore be sharpened more times.

Thick vs. thin kerf The kerf of a blade is the overall thick- ness of cut the blade produces. There are advantages and disadvantages to both thick or thin kerf blades. A thin kerf 3 blade is generally /32" wide and a thick 4 1 hook angle is better for cross-cutting since the negative face kerf blade is generally /32" ( /8") wide. of the tooth is much less likely to cause tear-out. A negative As a general rule, thin kerf blades should be used with large hook angle is good for making mitre cuts on moldings, cut- and accurate saw collars or stabilizers for strength and accu- ting plywood panels, or cutting non-wood materials, such racy, and are not recommended for deep cutting. Thin kerf as plastics and metal. Angles between -2° and -10° are rec- blades can be very useful in fine woodworking since they offer ommended for plywood, MDF, OSB, laminate, melamine, low-resistance cutting, lower waste, and generally a good fin- and particleboards. ish. Attention must be paid to setting the blade height or depth correctly, and they should never be used on unstable or green material. Take extra care to keep the feed rate smooth while using a thin kerf blade. Due to its thinner plate, thin kerf blades dissipate less heat caused by friction. Since a thin kerf blade requires less horsepower, it may be a good choice for lower-powered saws and especially battery-powered circular saws. There are many advantages, and a few disadvantages, to using thick kerf blades. Thick kerf blades are stronger and more resilient. They can also withstand repeated sharpening better than the narrower cutting blades and can make deeper cuts in thicker materials. The heavier mass of a full kerf plate will handle the stresses of heat better than a thin kerf blade, so it’s often a more suitable choice for volume applications. I have personally found that a thick kerf blade used in a 12–15 amp 7 ¼" or 7 ½" circular saw performs better when used in conjunction with any track or guide system. Depending on the thickness of material to be cut, you may have to slow down the feed rate to compensate for any saw with lower horsepower. This is because thick kerf blades remove more material, and require more energy to maintain proper RPM. A note about carbide teeth People often think that carbide is carbide, but this is not the case. There are a number of different grades of carbide, which determine how long the blade will stay sharp, how clean it will cut, and how many times it can be re-sharped. On most premium blades the carbide is formulated specifically for the application of the blade. At a minimum, look for a blade with C3 grade micro-grain carbide teeth. C4 carbide is the most durable grade for saw blade teeth, and is usually found on

36 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 premium blades. Generally speaking, Never force any blade to cut faster CUSTOMER CARE the thicker the carbide, the more times it than it is designed to. When using a can be re-sharpened. lower-powered table saw or circular saw, listen to the motor. If the motor Rules of Thumb when sounds like it is “bogging down,” then selecting a table saw, mitre slow down the feed rate. All saws are saw or circular saw blade: designed to cut at a particular RPM and Blades with more teeth yield a work best at that RPM. Questions/ConCerns or smoother cut. Blades with fewer teeth With any table saw blade, remem- to renew or Give a Gift remove material faster, but tend to ber that the teeth above the table’s Call our friendly customer produce a rougher cut with more “tear- surface rotate in the direction of care team at 1-800-204-1773 out”. More teeth means you will need the operator and enter the top sur- or email orderdesk@ to use a slower feed rate. face of the work piece first; therefore, canadianwoodworking.com. No matter what type of saw blade place the wood with the finished side you use, you will likely wind up with upward. This would be the opposite BaCk issues residue on the saw blade. You’ll need when using a radial arm saw or circu- a limited supply of print to clean off this residue using pitch sol- lar saw. This applies to plain plywood, back issues are available. vent. Otherwise, your saw blade will veneers, and any form of plywood Check suffer from “blade drag” and can pro- with laminates attached. When both canadianwoodworking.com duce burn marks on the wood. sides of the wood are finished, use a or call 1-800-204-1773 to Do not use a rip blade to cut plywood, fine-tooth blade with minimum set or order. Digital editions are melamine or MDF. This will result in a hollow-ground blade. available online also. poor cut quality with excessive “tear- Dull or damaged blades pose a out”. Use a cross-cut blade or, even danger. Regularly inspect your blades Your PrivaCY better, a good-quality triple-chip blade. for any defects such as missing tooth occasionally, we make our Never use a rip blade in a mitre tips, residue build-up and warping. subscriber list available to saw as this can be dangerous and will Woodworking is a wonderful occupa- companies that sell goods and provide very poor-quality cuts. Use a tion or hobby, but over 60,000 people services by mail/email that we believe would interest our cross-cut blade. are seriously injured using table saws readers. Many of our subscribers If you plan to cut a large volume of every year. Remember that familiar- enjoy the opportunity to shop a particular material, it may be best to ity breeds contempt. The more one for merchandise or to take purchase a blade specifically designed uses a saw, they tend to become over- advantage of special offers for that material. Most manufacturers confident, which is when accidents and events. if you prefer to be supply user guide blade information. can happen. Never remove any safety excluded from such mailings, please let us know. You can call Naturally, all blade manufacturers think equipment from your saw. Always use our friendly customer care their blades are the best, so you can also eye protection, feather boards, hold team at 1-800-204-1773 refer to the information above to further down devices and push sticks prop- or email orderdesk@ assist you. erly. One of the leading causes of canadianwoodworking.com. If you do not want to change blades accidents results from inadequate in- with “Do not rent” frequently and you constantly cut a vari- feed and out-feed tables or rollers. The in the subject line. ety of material, as is the case with many natural reaction is to grab the panel people, it may be best to stick with a or board when it falls and this would DiGital liBrarY good-quality combination blade. The generally be right over the blade of subscribers have full access average tooth count is 40, 60, and 80 the saw. Work safe to our digital library. simply teeth. The more teeth, the cleaner the and work smart and click on the cut, but the slower the feed rate. you will have many archive button years of woodworking at the top right of your Rules of Thumb enjoyment. digital edition or access for using a saw blade: through Customer Care at canadianwoodworking.com The blade depth above or below the ROGER HAMBLEN material to be cut should not exceed roger.hamblen ¼". This setting creates less friction, @torontotool.com DiGital eDition resulting in less heat build-up and pro- not receiving your bonus Roger has two passions in life: design engineer- digital edition? vides less resistance when pushing ing and woodworking. He works a lot but never Call material through. A general miscon- forgets his third passion, his wife, even if she 1-800-204-1773 ception is that a deeper setting will give always seems to have a “Honey Do” list longer and update your current better and straighter cuts. than his arm. email address.

Customercare_sept2013.indd 1 2013-07-30 9:05 AM heirloom 38 Japanese-Inspired

CANADIAN WOODWORKING &HOMEIMPROVEMENT Cabinet project ? INFO:

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES–MORTISING DIFFICULTY –4/5,LENGTH/TIMECOST3/5, August/September 2014

Photos by Ian Ferguson Illustration by Len Churchill This cabinet was inspired by the many Torii gates throughout Japan. Glue on Tenons – Once the top/bottom panel cores and headers are sized and prepped glue the Its simple, clean headers in place. Ferguson uses simple shapes, like square and triangles, to help him locate parts lines mean it will relative to one and other. look great in almost any setting.

BY IAN FERGUSON

his cabinet was constructed using only solid wood, and without the use of fasteners or Thardware. Sheet goods could be used, but be sure to use them strate- gically so that they don’t interfere with Trim the Tenons – Once the top/bottom panel subassemblies are made, you can trim them to the seasonal movement of your solid length on the table saw with a good cross-cut sled. wood components. I used arts and crafts design elements to assist me in creat- ing something that looked distinctly Japanese. As it was a fairly large piece, I decided to add to the negative space by using a shoji inspired door. This opens up the front of the cabinet and makes it seem less imposing. If you’d like the interior of the cabinet to be hidden, try applying some hand-made Japanese paper to the backside of the lattice. This can make for a great liquor cabinet, or to cover up any unsightly contents. Start sharpening your pencils and knives now, as this project will involve a lot of marking. Many of the components will reference closely off of one another, so a specific order of operations will need to be followed. Carcase Construction The top and bottom panels of the car- case have large 5" long tenons that fit through the legs. These tenons are eas- ily established during glue-up, so no difficult machining is required. Simply assemble and cut the panel core to its final size, and attach the tenon “head- Cut to Width – Ripping the tenons to width on the table saw is fast and accurate, but be careful not ers” to either edge. Be sure to leave some to cut beyond the marked line (above). Remove the remaining waste with a handsaw (below).

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 39 extra length on these headers so they can Materials List be trimmed square to their final length. Part Ltr Qty T W L Material I also recommend sanding the end grain Cabinet Top A 1 1 24 40 Figured Solid of the panel core prior to glue-up, as this Top / Bottom Panel Cores B 2 ¾ 15 28 Solid will be far more difficult once the tenons Top / Bottom Panel Headers C 4 ¾ 2 ½ 38 Solid are in place. The tenons will require a ½" wide Gable D 2 ¾ 20 18 ¾ Solid 7 shoulder on the outside edge. This will Back Panel E 1 ½ 22 /8 18 ½ Solid ensure the edge of the panel will be flush 3 Door Top Rails F 2 ¾ 2 /8 11 ½ Figured Solid with the face of the leg. Cut the shoul- Door Bottom Rails G 2 ¾ 2 ¼ 11 ½ Figured Solid der so it is in line with the panel core. I 1 chose to do this on a table saw, stopping Door Stiles H 4 ¾ 2 /8 18 ¼ Figured Solid before my pencil line to account for the Door Kumiko - Horizontal I 6 ½ ½ 8 ½ Solid curvature of the blade. When the cut is 1 Door Kumiko - Vertical J 6 ½ ½ 14 /8 Solid finished, turn the saw off, wait for the 1 Legs K 4 3 3 36 /8 Figured Solid blade to stop and complete your cut with a handsaw. Tenon Tusks L 8 ¾ 1 4 Secondary Solid Finally, break out your back panel and Tenon Wedges M 8 To Fit 2 ½ ¾ Secondary Solid 3 gables. Your gables will require a /8" x ¼" shoulder cut on each corner, to hide the dado joint when they are fitted into the top and bottom panels. Carcase Joinery The top and bottom panels require 19 ½" long stopped dados that are ¾" 3 1 wide, /8" deep, and located 2 /8" from both edges. These dados will accept the gables. Stop the dados ¼" from the front and back edges so the joint will be hid- den. Next, you need to cut dados in these top and bottom panels to accept the back panel. With your ½" router bit, make a 3 /8" deep groove, set back ¾" from the back edge. This groove should span the length between your gable dados. Also cut grooves on your gables to accept the back panel, again ¾" from the back edge. The doors will slide in grooves in the top and bottom panels. You’ll need to cut the upper grooves deeper than the lower grooves, allowing you to remove Simple Dados – A router, equipped with a ¾" straight bit, and a straight edge are all that’s needed the doors by lifting them up, then angling for machining dados in the top and bottom assemblies. These dados will accept the gables. them out. The upper set of track grooves 3 should be ½" wide and /8" deep. Space top. It’s easiest to machine these ten- the first track groove ¾" from the front Legs ons now, while the legs are still square. 5 edge and the second track groove 1 /8" Start by laminating material for four Be sure to account for the taper when 1 from the front edge. Again, these grooves 36 /8" x 3" x 3" posts. Cutting 3" x 3" positioning and cutting them. The over- 1 will need to span the length between your stock on a table saw can be difficult, all length of the legs are 36 /8". They gable dados. The lower track grooves especially when using a lower horse- taper from 3" wide at their bases to 1 ½" 1 need only be /8" deep, and follow the power machine. Instead, joint a face at a distance of 35" above the ground. 1 same spacing as the upper track grooves. and an edge, and dimension your parts The upper 1 /8" of the leg will be made The carcase subassembly is now mostly using your planer. This will give you a up of the 1" long tenon that fits into the 1 complete, but don’t glue it together just much smoother finish while prevent- top,and the upper /8" will be cut flush yet. Once the legs are in place, a few more ing burns. after assembly. Use a cross-cut sled and mortises will have to be marked and cut in The legs feature a wedged tenon, a stop to establish the shoulders, and order to make way for the tusk tenons. which are used to secure the cabinet then cut the faces using a bandsaw.

40 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 cabinet top top panel header

1 /2" 5 1 /8" top panel headers 1 3 /2"-wide x /8"-deep tenon wedges 1 1 /2"-wide x /8"-deep top panel core bottom panel header

DOOR TRACK GROOVE DETAILS

back panel gable leg

leg

1 3 /2"-wide x /8"-deep groove for back panel door stiles door top rail

1 3 /4"-wide x /8"-deep shoulder cut

bottom panel header

bottom panel core bottom horizontal vertical panel header door kumikos door kumikos tenon tusk 1 1 /2" door bottom rail

1"-tall x 2"-wide through mortise 28" 8"

1 3 1 /2"-wide x /8"-deep groove for back panel /2"-wide shoulder 3 /4" 35"

7" 18"

1 3 3 20" 19 /2" /4"-wide x /8"-deep stopped dados for gables

1 2 /8" 1 /2"-wide grooves for doors

7"

TOP/BOTTOM PANEL DETAILS 3" FRONT VIEW

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 41 Slots will need to be cut into the ten- pocket square to observe the interior ons so wedges can be driven in. Be sure of the mortise. Be sure to cut the mor- to drill a relief hole along the length tise walls slightly concave, hitting tight of these slots, so the tenon can expand only at the cheeks. This will make without splitting. assembly much easier. After cutting the tenon, we can taper the Fit the legs onto the carcase and mark legs. This can be done using a tapering jig the tusk tenons. Make sure to cut your 1 on a larger table saw, or by using a band- mortise /8" back from the face of the saw. If using a bandsaw, offset your cut leg. This space allows the tusk to pull 1 /16" from your pencil line and use a jointer the joint tight without bottoming out. or handplane to clean up your cut. Again, use a drill and chisel to machine Dry fit your carcase and use assembly these mortises. squares to ensure the cabinet is square. To make the tusks, simply cut out the Hold your leg up against your carcase rough dimensions on a bandsaw and tenons and mark out for your mortises. It use a sander or handplane to fine-tune is essential that the cabinet be square dur- them to fit. It’s a good idea to make a ing this stage, as any deviation will make couple extra tusks as it’s very easy to fitting your legs difficult or impossible. overwork them, resulting in a sloppy Using a square, translate your mark- fit. Remember to mark which tusk is ings across and onto the tapered face paired with which mortise, as there of your leg. Using a drill press, begin will likely be slight dimensional differ- to waste out material for your mor- ences between them. Once the legs are tise. Use a chisel to finish the joint. attached to the carcase, the entire struc- Top Tenons – Tenons in the tops of the legs Because these mortises are so deep, ture should be very stable and square, will fix the cabinet top in place. They’re machined I found it helpful to have a small 2" despite no glue being used. before the legs are tapered, so you have four straight, square faces to reference while cutting.

The Top The last large component to make is the top. After assembling and dimen- sioning your panel, you will need to mark out mortises so the top can be secured to the four leg tenons. Center the top onto the cabinet and trace around the tenons using a sharp knife or pencil. You will need to add a slight taper to your mortises so your wedged ten- ons will have room to expand and lock into place. A large gap is not required 1 for this; /16" off each cheek should be more than adequate. Use a small square to ensure the mortises are tapered evenly. Next, cut out the wedges using a bandsaw and carefully shape them to fit using a belt- sander or handplane. Ensure the wedges are thick enough to fully close the joint. Doors Start by making the members for the interior lattice or, “kumiko.” This was constructed using simple half-lap joinery. The members of a traditional shoji door alternate, creating a more rigid structure with a woven appearance. For simplic- Time for a Taper – With the tenons on the tops of the legs cut you can mark and cut the tapers on ity’s sake, I chose to do my joinery all the legs. True the rough-cut surface up with a jointer or hand plane. on one side. I found it easiest to do all

42 CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT August/September 2014 the joinery on a wider piece of stock and then simply cut all the members from that piece. This removes the headache of individually machining a dozen little sticks. You’ll need two blanks: one for the six vertical members, and another for the six horizontal members. With six 1 kumiko ½" wide + five /8" saw kerfs + ½" allowance, you’ll want these boards 1 to be at least 4 /8" wide. Cut these blanks to their finished lengths and use a dado set to cut your half-lap joints. The 5 vertical members are spaced 1 /8" apart and the horizontal members are spaced 3" apart. Keep in mind that there is an extra ¼" on each end that will be joined with the doorframe. Before cutting your members to width, make a test cut using Tenon Tusks – Contrasting wood tusks are used to secure the top and bottom panels to the legs. some scrap and see how it fits with your Tusk tenons usually require that the mortise be tapered, but because the legs are already tapered this is dados. I would recommend cutting the not necessary. 1 members /64" oversized, which will account for the material that you will With your kumiko established, we 2 ¼" wide. This accounts for the depths 1 take off when sanding. Sanding once the can get started on the frame. This is a of tracks we routed earlier. 2 /8" is vis- members are joined is nearly impossible. simple stile and rail construction using ible evenly all the way around when the Be careful not to break any edges before blind mortises. It should be noted that doors are in their final position. 1 assembly, as this will create gaps in the while the stiles are 2 /8" wide, the top The tenons measure 1 ¾"L x 1 ¾"W x 3 joinery. rail is 2 /8" wide and the bottom rail is ¼"T, and can be cut easily using a dado set coupled with a sacrificial fence. Use a ¼" bit on a hollow chisel mortise, or a router and jig, to cut your mortises. This can also be done by hand, but take care not to split the stiles when cutting along the grain. Be sure to cut your mortise 1 /16" deeper than the length of the tenon. This will give excess glue a place to pool, which might otherwise cause difficulty in closing your joint. Finally, the kumiko will need to be joined with your frame. Take a stile and mark out where the top and bottom rails will sit, then mark a centerline between those interior measurements. Mark another centerline across the width of your middle kumiko member. Lay both parts flat on your bench, and use scrap 1 /8" material to shim up the kumiko. This will center the ½" thick lattice within the thickness of your ¾" door stile. Align your centerlines and you will have deter- mined the kumiko’s position within the door stile. Mark out for your mortises, and repeat this process on your remain- ing stiles and rails. A ½" bit on a hollow chisel mortiser makes quick work of Mark and Chop – After dry-assembling the carcase, you can mark the location and size of the these 24 mortises, but make some test mortises on the legs. Be as accurate as possible here (left). Proceed to chop away the waste and cuts to ensure the fit is satisfactory. A produce a clean mortise (right) mortising chisel and mallet would also

CANADIAN WOODWORKING & HOME IMPROVEMENT 43 work. After assembly, rabbet advantage of a project like this is that the piece can reach the backs of your doors so near completion without the use of any glue. This gives you they fit in the tracks. the option to take everything apart and troubleshoot your joinery, as well as ease the sanding process. Once the top is The wedged into place, the cabinet can no longer be disassem- Finishing Touches bled. I finished my cabinet using Tried & A few quick routing opera- True Traditional Wood Finish, available at tions complete the piece. Lee Valley. Rout a ½" radius cove along the underside of the top and — Have you seen other Japanese-inspired pieces that you like? Let us know on our web- a ¼" x ¼" chamfer around site, in the comments section below the article. the base of the feet. There 1 1 are also /8" x /8" chamfers on the tenons that protrude IAN FERGUSON [email protected] through the legs. Remember to rout the more difficult end Ian is a recent graduate from the Woodworking Technician program at grain first, so any blow-out Conestoga College. When he’s not picking sawdust out of his nose, he likes to ride his bike and study Japanese. can be removed when cut- ting the side grain. The great Go Online for More

RELATED ARTICLES: Wine Cabinet (Feb/Mar 2005), Sliding Smoothly – With the Contemporary Sideboard (Dec/Jan 2010), doors finished, and rabbets cut on Hand-Cut Mortise and Tenon (Aug/Sept 2010), their upper and lower edges, the Step Tansu (Aug/Sept 2005). doors slide nicely in the tracks.

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TorontotoolBanner2014_2.indd 1 2014-05-22 4:35 PM woodchuckle A Home in the Woods Part II

BY DON WILKINSON

This Part II is continued from Don's adventures in our Apr/May 2014 issue.

hen last I left you, I it had been my great misfortune to spot large steel cable and then locked away was on my way to log- her clearing brush around her house … and sealed in the archives for evermore. house-making college. topless! That firmly reinforced my wish to Eventually the logs got peeled, the WFor some reason, I had build as far away from her as possible. footings and pilings were more or less brought my brother-in-law along with The neighbour to the east had strip- straight, and somewhat level and rela- me. No one recalls what he had done mined a treeless swath 80 feet wide and tively square to each other. At long last wrong to deserve such punishment, but 200 feet deep across the front of his prop- we could begin to place the logs wher- apparently it was bad enough that his erty and plunked an old trailer in the ever they were supposed to go. Not that I parents wanted him out of the house for midst of the resulting gravel field. I defi- had a clue where that might be. the summer. They even paid me. Not nitely did not wish to look out on that But first I needed to devise some means enough mind you, but it helped with the every day. This left me with only one to lift the monster logs from where they food and gas bills. alternative. Near the back of the property lay scattered around the lot and place I won’t go into the details of the trip or was a gently sloped and forested knoll, them on the foundation. I had some- the log construction course, although I’m overlooking a wildflower-covered moun- how neglected to consider that problem, sure I could if I was asked nicely, or any tainside across the valley. Oh well, if that but after a great deal of thought I read other way for that matter. Suffice it to was the only alternative then I suppose about a brilliant method utilizing a steel say that I learned just enough to believe we would just have to live with it. cable strung between two trees, an 8000 I was now a fully trained and expert log I began clearing the brush and trees lb winch and a heavy-duty block and house put-togetherer. I also learned that from the house-site that very day, and by tackle. Unfortunately Yukon trees aren’t a weekend spent in Ver**lion is like a the time night fell I had managed to do known for their strength. The trees I year spent anywhere else on the planet very little at all. It turns out that clearing selected immediately began to list and that you’d hate to be. My goodness, but a forest happens to be hard work, some- slowly uproot themselves from the weight that town was boring. thing I hadn’t considered. Clearly, help of the cable. The addition of the block The three-day drive back up the Alaska and hard work were needed if I was ever and tackle proved to be the last straw and Highway took six days, and proved to be going to occupy the house in my life- we stood back and watched as the trees completely uneventful, if I don’t men- time. And help and hard work is exactly majestically toppled into the center of the tion travelling through the massive forest what brothers-in-law were invented for. building site with a whimper. fire in the middle of an army convoy for Day after day we worked. They Well, much like the house itself, seven hours one night. peeled the logs, complained, got blisters, it doesn’t look like I’m going to fin- Once we finally arrived in Whitehorse, complained some more, and once, by ish this up very fast. But you knew it I was eager to get started on building the accident, raised a little sweat. Meanwhile, would take longer. After all, as everyone home for my family. Early the following I dug holes in the sandy soil for pilings, knows: afternoon I was at our lot deciding where sweated on occasion, and constantly “Home wasn’t built in to place our mansion. Fourteen acres and questioned why I hadn’t just bought a a day.” still my choices were limited. To the West, house in Whitehorse instead. Oh right! the weird neighbour lady had built her Because my wife wanted a log house in DON WILKINSON house too close to our property line, and the woods. Case closed, tied up with a

[email protected] Illustration by Mike Del Rizzo

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