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E S S E N T I A L G U I D E - P U B L I S H E D J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 9 MARGARET RIVER and the SOUTH WEST inspiring trip ideas from travellers and locals CAPE ROAD TRIP CRUSADE RUNDOWN Discover the south west's Make tracks from Perth River iconic cape to cape walk to Margaret River Welcome to MARGARET RIVER and the SOUTH WEST If you’re craving an escape to nature, laced with gourmet food and wine of course, then pack a bag and head south of Perth to Margaret River and the South West. Here you’ll find hundreds of wine producers, exciting breweries, distilleries and cideries surrounded by spectacular scenery. The quality of the area’s produce is matched by the beauty of its forests, caves and pristine ocean. Here, towering karri trees sprawl to the edge of dramatic limestone cliffs that fall to isolated beaches and world-class surf breaks. So get ready to rove from one great experience to another with a vino in hand and a belly filled with local delights. Injidup Beach The Gloucester Tree C O N T E N T S Wills Domain, Margaret River 04 Check out 05 Stories & experiences Cape crusade: The cape to cape track P6 Feast al fresco in the forests P8 Five adventure getaways in Busselton Jetty Margaret River P10 Margaret River's ten of the best for foodies P13 17 Journeys 7 Margaret River discoveries you can pack into a weekend P17 Perth and Margaret River in 5 days P20 23 Itinerary Best of the south west Boranup Forest About the AUTHORS Ute Junker Ute Junker worked as a magazine editor and TV and digital producer before running away to become a travel writer. She now gets to pursue her passions – including food, history, art, architecture and wildlife, across the globe. And is more than happy to travel a long way for a coral reef, fine French champagne, or a bathtub with a view. Ella Liascos Ella Liascos is a travel, wellness writer and yoga teacher from the port town of Fremantle Western Australia, writing about travel, health, wellness and sustainability for a range of online and print publications. Max Brearley Max Brearley is a food writer based in the south west of Western Australia. His passion for a good yarn and great produce has led him to forage for native foods, follow abalone from ocean to plate and dig for black truffles in the towering Southern Forests. Writing for The Australian, The Guardian, Halliday and Conde Nast Traveller the next farm gate or kitchen door exploit is never far away. Sean Blocksidge Sean Blocksidge runs a tour company in Margaret River based on doing the things that he loves. He’s been living in Margaret River for 13 years now, five of which managing a winery before starting his tour operation. Virginia Willcock Virginia Willcock is the chief winemaker at Vasse Felix winery, where she turns beautiful Margaret River grapes into delectable, award-winning wine. Living in Margaret River’s town centre keeps her at the heart of everything that’s happening in the region. 2 6 CHECK OUT Surf, swim and snorkel. The South West is famous for its spectacular coastline and inviting beaches. Follow in the footsteps of the world’s best surfers who flock to Surfers Point for the annual Margaret River Pro. Or for more tranquil conditions, you’ll find some of Australia’s top Boojidup Beach swimming spots at Dunsborough, Denmark and Albany. You’ve never dined like this. Home to six distinct wine regions, the South West serves up some of Australia’s best ‘paddock to plate’ dining experiences all year round. Enjoy local marron, trout, venison, chocolates, cheeses, cherries, boutique beers and crisp ciders, as well as the rare black truffle. Manjimup Truffle and Wine Co. Indigenous Culture. Discover the customs and history of the Noongar people, the South West’s first inhabitants, through Aboriginal tours and centres across the region. You’ll also find exceptional South West artistic Koomal Dreaming talent including painters, sculptors, furniture makers, jewellery designers and hand-blown glass artists. Tall timbers. Consider yourself a thrill seeker? Climb to the towering heights of the resident tingle trees in the Valley of the Giants, suspended 40m above the forest floor. Or go one-step further (or more) and climb a trio of karri trees in Pemberton, up to 75m high! The Gloucester Tree A sense of adventure. Throw on your hiking boots and explore along the spectacular coastal Cape to Cape Track, the bushland Bibbulmun Track, or out to the Porongurup Range’s Granite Skywalk. Alternatively, take off on two wheels along the Munda Biddi off-road cycling experience and other world-class singletrack and mountain biking trails. 4 The Cape to Cape Track S STORexIpEer&iences Stories to inspire you by travellers and locals CAPE CRUSADE: THE CAPE TO CAPE TRACK W R I T T E N B Y M A X B R E A R L E Y The Cape to Cape Track WALKING THE CAPE TO CAPE ISN’T JUST AN INTRODUCTION TO THE MARGARET RIVER REGION, BUT AN INSIGHT INTO WHAT MAKES THINGS TICK DOWN HERE IN THE SOUTH WEST CORNER OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 6 SECTION TWO – QUININUP CLIFFTOP SEAT TO WILYABRUP CLIFFS From the Quininup Clifftop Seat to Wilyabrup Cliffs, you’ll walk a mixture of limestone and granite, which takes in the beauty of Quininup Falls, just north of Moses Rock. SECTION THREE – MEEKADARABEE FALLS TO THE RIVER MOUTH OF MARGARET RIVER Sugarloaf Rock Between Meekadarabee Falls and the river mouth of the Margaret River, it’s worth considering the rich indigenous history of the region and influence of European settlers. Meekadarabee means ‘bathing place of the moon’, while at Ellensbrook Homestead the Margaret River is famed for its wine, the National Trust preserves a piece of history – built by the Bussell making of which relies heavily upon its maritime family over decades, it’s said that everyone from convicts to deserting seamen and local Noongar people worked on its climate. And while the local produce is construction. undoubtedly a draw, it’s ultimately the diverse landscape, coastal lifestyle, and an ability to experience it daily that pulls people here. Hamelin Bay At 135km the Cape to Cape has the advantage over other longer distance walks in Western Australia. It offers a challenge that can be completed end to end in less than a week, or like the locals, you can choose to break it into sections. The Cape to Cape isn’t a passive experience. It’s one that will awaken the senses from start to finish. Depending on the season the flora and fauna will vary, from land to ocean. Spotting whales off the coast between June and December isn’t uncommon, or experiencing wildflowers from August to October. An expert guide doesn’t just take care of the logistics, but gives you insight into the landscape, the biodiversity Contos Beach and its history. If self-guided is the way for you, a copy of The Cape to Cape Track Guidebook (by Jane Scott and Ray Forma) is the definitive guide to the walk. SECTION FOUR – CONTOS BEACH TO HAMELIN BAY RECOMMENDED GUIDED TOURS: Contos Beach to Hamelin Bay takes you from heath-covered clifftops into the towering timbers of Boranup Forest. When you • Margaret River Discovery Company reach the remains of Hamelin Bay’s wooden jetty, watch out for • Cape to Cape Explorer Tours the friendly giant stingrays that glide within inches of the shore. • Walk into Luxury SECTION FIVE – COSY CORNER SECTION ONE – CAPE BLOWHOLES TO CAPE LEEUWIN NATURALISTE TO WYADUP STEPS LIGHTHOUSE Section one starts at Cape Naturaliste and heads south, A final push from Cosy Corner Blowholes to Cape Leeuwin taking you from the lighthouse to Wyadup Steps by icons of Lighthouse finishes the walk and while the waterwheel, just short the coastline, Sugarloaf Rock and Canal Rocks. You can of the lighthouse is the supposed end to the walk, it seems only break the walk into these manageable sections, many right to make your way to the lighthouse itself. Here at the most favouring five, and heeding advice from local tour guide southwesterly tip of Australia, the Indian and Southern Oceans Sean Blocksidge to not treat it as a race. As Sean says, meet. However you walk it, and however long it takes, it’s unlikely “Give yourself time to stop and smell the wildflowers.” to be an experience you’ll ever forget. 7 Stories to inspire you by travellers and locals FEAST AL FRESCO IN THE FORESTS W R I T T E N B Y U T E J U N K E R Taste Great Southern GO BEYOND MARGARET RIVER AND ENJOY A LOCAVORE LUNCH IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA'S SOUTHERN FORESTS. 8 Fancy a feast of fine food and wine in scenic surrounds? Then head to Margaret River. Thanks to fertile soils and a Mediterranean climate, this verdant area 3 hours south of Perth is heaven for foodies. The gourmet delights don’t stop there: with more fabulous produce on offer in the adjoining Southern Forests region, famous for its soaring forests Southern Forests of karri and tingle trees. COUNTRY WELCOME Slow down and take your time. In the towns of the Southern Forests, there’s no need to rush. National ANZAC Centre If you are keen to explore the area’s white-sand beaches and sheltered inlets, Denmark makes a great base.