Riding with the Wind in Donegal, Ireland Lush green countryside, miles of quiet rural lanes, and a lively culture have long attracted bicycle travelers to Ireland. Although most cyclists head straight for the southern counties of Kerry and Cork, a post- card dropped through our letterbox drew our attention elsewhere. Story by Cara Coolbaugh Photos by Cass Gilbert the image on the front was of Five Fingers but impressive peaks, quaint villages, and — “Yeats’ country,” he said. The next we figured we were in for mixed weath- Strand, and it showed an unspoiled empty a wealth of history. My partner Cass and morning, we hopped on the train to Sligo. er, but what we hadn’t anticipated was beach, long swaths of white sand, softly I were inspired to explore the windswept As we pulled into the station, my eyes the brilliant sunshine and spring heat breaking waves under steep sea cliffs, and region, following the coast as closely as pos- caught sight of an enormous flat-topped wave. The road was smooth, and we emerald grassy hills in the distance. The sible for a week-long tour in early spring. pyramid projecting straight up from the flew along, ticking off miles in handfuls. card said this would be found in Donegal, Our Dubliner-friend Philip invited us for seafront and arching out like a crashing It was a shame Phil had to turn around the northwesternmost county in Ireland, a visit in the capital before heading north. wave. Mounting our steeds, we pedaled and head home soon after we reached best known for its wild weather and great We wasted no time in finding a traditional, toward it and came across Drumcliffe the fifteenth-century centerpiece castle in surf. Out of summer season, it draws few packed Irish pub. Squeezing in, we tipped Church, where William Butler Yeats, the Donegal town. But even without our ace visitors, and the coastal roads and back back frothy pints of Guinness and soaked celebrated Irish poet, is buried. He lay there guide, the day kept getting better and lanes are perfect for cyclists. The rugged in the lilting Irish tunes being strummed in the shadow of the dominating ridge as better as we savored the craggy coastal coastline provides as many detours out in the corner. Also an avid cyclist, Phil requested — “under Bare Bulbin’s head.” views of beaches under a cloudless sky. around headlands as you have time for. offered to guide us through the first day’s The certainty of unpredictable weather Detouring at Carrick, we cycled out to Meanwhile, inland are open moors, small riding as he was originally from the area Because it was the beginning of April, Slieve League, home to Europe’s highest sea cliffs. The road narrowed and pitched steeper as we followed it into the park. Reaching a viewpoint, we stared out at a massive wall of rock, dropping nearly 1,000 feet, dipping its toes into the sea and shel- A happy coincidence. Naturally, Cass and Cara spent the night. tering scarce patches of sand in its coves. Back on the saddle, we joined the road in Europe and a friendly, quiet hostel. been people swimming already this season. to Malin Beg, the westernmost point in We chatted with the owner in front of Tempted by the thought of splashing in Donegal. We were drawn to this little the crackling fire over rounds of potato the fresh sea, we planned an early-morning village on a solitary piece of land because cakes and freshly caught lobster. He men- visit before setting off on another 60-mile, it was rumored to have the best beach tioned, almost as a challenge, that there’d hilly ride. The winds were starting to &,9")+%&2)$!9#/- "/!2$).'0!33 Carrier Excess Baggage Charge Name of Passenger(s) ANY AIRLINE NONE FORREST ROBERTS / LYN CHIANG Pygmy products... 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Protect your essentials 34 a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t f e b r u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t f e b r u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g 35 ProtectsProtects your your drivetrain drivetrain fromfrom the theelements elements when when transportingtransporting your your bike bike KeepsKeeps grease grease off ofoff car’s of car’s upholstery upholstery keepskeeps grease grease off ofoff bike of bike boxes boxes when when you’reyou’re shipping shipping your your bikes bikes PygmyPygmy pack: pack: $44.99 $44.99 + s&H + s&H I-800-281-0197I-800-281-0197 www.pygmypack.com www.pygmypack.com PygmyPygmy pack pack 2: $69.95 2: $69.95 +s&h +s&h change though, and the night cooled off. Our perseverance paid off, and just tionately long — knocking at the knees ness, broken up by the clear bright spells We went to sleep with the blankets pulled as we were deciding whether to take the and flailing to the sides — making them of sun and harmless ice-cream clouds. up to our chins, listening to the light direct main road or the scenic route to look like little goats. We admired ancient When we weren’t being soaked, we were tickling of raindrops on the windowpanes. Crolly, the skies cleared. The late-evening stone walls built up from large uniform treated to spectacular views out to sea and Emerging from the mist light broke through golden and rich, with boulders, walls made from smaller rocks a prime position to ogle Mt. Errigal in the Our swim was not to be. The next a distant rainbow floating in the lingering placed in neat boxed rows, and ones made distance — an enchanting triangular peak morning, I peeked outside and saw, well, mist. The scenic route it was! We were with rounded stones that left gaps for mis- that begged to be explored more closely. nothing really, through the veil of misty fully rewarded with one of the most idyllic chievous little muzzles. Lure of the mountains rain. Cass came in from the bike shed, roads — icy lakes cupped in lush green hills Winding our way onward to A sliver of road led us directly to Mt. rosy-cheeked and dripping, saying, “It’s with wet rocks glistening in the light. We Dunfanaghy, it was bright, sunny, and Errigal’s base where it stood proud, per- a bit chilly out there.” Perfect — wet, climbed up into the mountains away from warm at times, only to be followed by mete- fectly formed, like a gray Toblerone chunk. windy, and cold — that was more like the coast to a far more remote and mysti- or showers of hail that soon tapered off into With the promise of more mountains to what we expected. Donning full water- cal village. It was no surprise to find that classic thick raindrops. A medley of winds come, we headed for mystical Glenveagh proofs, we turned our backs to the sea Crolly was home to Enya and the Celtic also made an appearance — a gracious National Park, cycling past sapphire lakes, and made good use of the tailwind. band Clannad, of New Age musical fame. tailwind that sent us flying along, and then meandering walls, and the derelict remains By two p.m., the constant drizzle was Enya’s father owns the local pub, Leo’s the nasty winds that pushed and shoved, of stone buildings. On we rode, past wild getting miserable. It was like being in Tavern, but sadly it wasn’t concert night. gusted and perished, whistled in our ears Phil and Cara. What better place for a photo in Ireland than in front of a soccer pitch? and untamed grasses growing tall in a a cold shower that wouldn’t turn off.