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vol. XIV Issue 15 Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Deputy Editor ILA SAXENA Deputy Editor-Textiles VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Asst. Editor-Fashion shraddha gupta Correspondent - Fashion Contents November 1-15, 2011 ARUSHI NANDA Special Correspondent (Europe) Claudia Ollenhauer-Ries Advertising Team 12. WorldWrap RAGHAV SOOD Local Fashion Labels, Working the 08826000378 Recession to their Advantage… Creative Team RAJKUMAR CHAHAL Stagnation! Inflation! = Hard Times! PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT 18. Sustainability Photo Editor Social responsibility is never JITENDER MEERWAL out of fashion… Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 22. IndustryUpdate 12 Buyers As Worried As Exporters Publisher & Managing Director As Orders Slow Down… RENU MOHINDRA 09810058986, 9810438653 Head Office Contact Communications 26. IndustryWire B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 Nitin International, Anmol Exports, Phone: 91-11-24602283, 47390000 G N Exports, Page Industries, NSL Textiles, Fax: 91-11-24604597 Tulsi Exports E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 28. DomesticRetail [email protected] Brands from Garment Exporters [email protected] face uphill task… Printing TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, 35. Trends2012 28 New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 Trends at Milan and Paris ------Fashion Weeks - Wrap-up subscription FORM Spring/Summer 2012 Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for Industry 38. FashionBusiness 1 Year rs. 1200.00 24 issues 2 Years rs. 2160.00 48 issues Wills India Fashion Week Educational Institutes / Students Wish To Go Global Is Not Enough… 1 Year rs. 840.00 24 issues (For delivery by courier Rs.360 (NCR) and Rs.720 (rest of India) will be charged extra per annum.) 44. TextileUpdate bangladesh, Pakistan & Sri Lanka Second Edition of Hindtex Varanasi 1 Year us$ 80.00 24 issues 2 Years us$ 140.00 48 issues Awes Everyone with Diversity & International (OTHER COUNTRIES) Quality of Exhibits and Buyers 1 Year us$ 150.00 24 issues 38 2 Years us$ 250.00 48 issues 50. H2F Name ______Heimtextil Russia 2011 Company/Institute ______Russian Retail Market for Home Address ______Products Growing Tel ______E-mail ______Type of business 52. ExportStatistics Exporter Retailer Buying House India Increases Value of Garment Exports to Any other (specify) ______the EU by 19.55%, but sees Decline in Subscription within India-Cheque/DD in Indian Rupees Volumes by (-) 3.09% International subscription (in Dollar) - DD favouring Contact Communications, New Delhi/ Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com/ Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 010297938930 54. ResourceCentre (Swift No:SBININBBA 220) with State Bank of India, South Intertek initiates ‘iSupplier Program’ to 44 Extension-1, New Delhi-110049. INDIA Send Cheque/DD to CONTACT COMMUNICATIONS, promote exporters to international buyers B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA

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Mindtree food for thought ijay Singh, Director, Shilpayan Decor, Jaipur aveen Duggal, Director, Kokeva Design, Delhi- V I feel the efforts done by AEPC to promote NNCR  AEPC is indeed doing a good job in Indian exporters around the world are good. Such promoting the exports, so much that it has now efforts will give us a chance to prove ourselves over become a platform for the exporters to exhibit their our competitors and give a new dimension to the collections and grow as a company. Among many of Indian apparel export industry, on the basis of our their brilliant jobs, I would like to point out a few. Question design aesthetics, high-quality standards and price- Firstly, for Indian exhibitions and fairs, they collect a points. number of exporters and advertise them as a group AEPC as an Through this promotion, I believe that the Indian on a very big scale, which is nearly impossible for any Apex body is exporters – with their high quality assurance and individual exporter to do. Secondly, for international responsible to design, would be able to divert the international exhibitions, they negotiate with international promote Indian exports to the buyers easily from the other countries. Although agencies, to provide subsidies for us, which are in world… today there are a lot of buyers in the market, AEPC is the form of MAI and MDA. AEPC gives us grants, developing new working towards our future in securing more which also include discounts for stalls, travel and markets is very relationships abroad. accommodation. From my side, I would not like to important. Do give any suggestions as they have already generated you think the ameer Sehgal, Proprietor, All Saints Exports, a complete calendar for exhibitions around the world, AEPC is doing SNew Delhi  The level of work that the AEPC with anyone else’s push. Apart from the regular fairs, a good job in has done is very good, but there is no definition this time they have participated in new markets like this regard… Do of ‘enough’. They need to be very active in terms of London (London Garment Expo), Germany, South you have any their participation in fairs, and increase the volume Africa, Barcelona and Spain. suggestion on of the fairs as well. The grant for the exporters what more can be done…? should be timely and also be increased as the costs uhail Mian, Proprietor, Crazy Desires, Uttar are going up. The time frame of the grant should SPradesh  AEPC is doing a fine job, and they also be lessened. They should also organize more are encouraging new as well as old exporters to fairs so that more number of buyers visit and place participate in the various events organized by them. orders with us. I, as a company, am only interested in fairs, where

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AEPC provides us with subsidized costs of the stalls, air-tickets and accommodation to 5-6 people per which seem to be a little out of reach. As far as I am company? They should provide all the information concerned, I am extremely satisfied with the working about travel and accommodation in a fair way. Even and the functioning of AEPC as the body responsible the allotment of stalls, which is done by a draw to promote Indian exports. method, is a partial process. They make the draw and I have one suggestion though, when they organize then plan the position of the stalls, thus promoting fairs abroad, the fees of the stalls are very high. favouritism. When they invite international designers Even the visa, travel and the accommodation has to come to India, they do not do it in a proper way, to be managed by us; which is very problematic. because of which only the big names benefit from it. All these issues can be solved if the AEPC helps the It should be organized to give some benefits to the exporters or even gives a recommendation to the small exporters as well. visa authorities to smoothen the entire process.

amesh Poddar, Owner, Poddar International, RJaipur  AEPC is not doing a good job at all. There is no transparency in their procedures as the exporters are not made aware of their work. The circulation of information is never on time, while other organizations, like those for handicrafts have questionnaire a much better approach. They need to give proper explanations to a lot of things. 90% of the buyers Do garment exporters have the wherewithal to be successful in the who visit the fairs are the ones that come every time, retail market…? Should they enter as manufacturers for leading Indian while most of them are the relatives of the AEPC brands or have their own brands… What is the right strategy? board or the traders. Write your comments to us by 7th November 2011 at: [email protected] or post your views When only one person from a company is allowed online through our website: www.apparelresources.com to visit the fair, then how come they provide free

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World Snips

200 graduates to be recruited Local Fashion Labels, by Marks & Spencer in 2012 Applications for the Marks & Working the Recession to Spencer’s 2012 Graduate Scheme and Business Placement Program have been opened, giving 200 their Advantage… graduates and undergraduates the opportunity to take their first While market slowdown has impacted international fashion brands, who are struggling step onto the retail ladder via approximately 140 graduate roles to maintain their position, it has also played an important role in development of local in stores and head office. Sixty one- fashion labels. These local fashion brands have not only seeped in through the cracks year placements have also been made by the recession in the retail wall but, have also managed to grow and expand offered to undergraduates as part of their degree. to make a name for themselves despite the weak economy. The demand for local M&S has also offered retail fashion across a local region and internationally is on the rise, which is evident from management roles within M&S the growing number of new fashion brands expanding regionally and internationally to UK stores and specialist head cater to the increasing demand… office schemes such as product technology, food development and fashion design, as well as general buying and merchandising schemes, along with 7 specialist e-commerce roles, in order to hile almost every international counterparts by at affordable prices as the support its ambitions in multi- individual aspires generating new ideas, launching increasing rate of unemployment channel retailing; which the to wear clothes that new lines and working with new and gas prices doesn’t allow graduates can apply for. Kay make them look partners to make a way into them to splurge on brands and Jones-Wolsey, Head of Recruitment W fashionable, not everyone can the wardrobes of the fashion so, these brands provides them at M&S said, “In a fast moving afford expensive brands and it with options where they can industry like retail, fresh and conscious generation with is because of these individuals innovative thinking is essential to a set budget. spend and be satisfied. While that local fashion brands have well established brands in US keep you ahead of the competition. With the current economic Our Graduate and BPP schemes managed to flourish all over the and Europe are facing the harsh scenario public enthusiasm for provide us with a pipeline of new world. In fact, the market for effects of the recession, local all things local and independent and exciting talent, enabling us local brands has grown largely fashion labels have used the to develop the next generation of is on the rise providing these on the strength of affordability, situation to their advantage and retail stars.” local labels with a measure of low-margins, high volume entered these markets while they insulation from the worst effects Facebook stores for holiday manufacturing and brand value are still soft, at prices that would of the recession. A survey of season at Walmart and Tesco for the customers. Further, further increase the competition the simplicity of these brands more than 1,800 local brand Walmart has launched more than for the existing names. provides the perfect antidote owners found that holiday sales 3,500 store-specific Facebook at independent stores were up Local labels flying high… pages, to connect stores with their for the expensive style everyone local communities. “My Local wishes to own. No wonder local 2.2% on average. Customers All Kasi, Founded by Barnes Walmart” page offers shoppers fast fashion brands are making today, prefer branded clothes Maplanka in 2000, is perhaps information about local store big efforts to compete with their to regular ones and want them the oldest fashion brand in product introductions, promotions, and events, as well as letting shoppers provide feedback about the store. Tesco, on the other hand, The local brands has opened a new pop-up Facebook store for Halloween, following the market has grown footsteps of Target and its pop-up largely on the strength Facebook Halloween store. of affordability, low- Powered by Zibaba, the Spooky margins, high volume Halloween Shop offers Tesco fans a VIP 20% discount on their manufacturing and ghoul-gear. The pop-up Facebook brand value for the fan-store is a storefront app from customers. Further, an increasing number of providers, with no logistics, inventory issues or the simplicity of these payment gateways to worry about. brands provides the The use of Facebook has become a platform for online pop-up retail, perfect antidote for with temporary stores offering the expensive style Facebook fans VIP pricing or fan- everyone wishes first access to promote a retail event, as well as product-launches to own. and marketing campaigns.

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WORLDWRAP

World Snips While well established Tegan, an online collection by French Connection brands in US and Europe are facing French Connection has launched a classic women’s wear brand ‘Tegan’ the harsh effects of which will only be available online. the recession, local Tegan, Welsh for “beautiful”, is a 50-piece autumn 11 range of fashion labels have versatile day-to-night designs used the situation to with flattering silhouettes, is only their advantage and available via ‘www.teganfashion. com’. French Connection Marketing entered these markets Director William Woodhams while they are still said there was a “gap in the market” for a brand to appeal soft, at prices that to a “slightly older woman than would further increase French Connection which he has the competition for the tried to fill. The line includes a spot-print silk blouse and a draped existing names. jersey dress, with prices ranging from £120 to £220 for a dress, Meters Bonwe, a Chinese brand giving tough competition to established names £150 to £220 for a coat and £90 to £130 for a pair of trousers. The launch of Tegan has followed the creation of French Connection’s Botswana, The brand became opened its three-storey to invest $ 10 million in its United Pippa women’s wear brand, a an instant hit with the youth flagship store in Myeongdong States operations. fashion-forward work wear range who loved the funky and casual along side Uniqlo, Mango, GAP The Orka Group, owner of that launched exclusively in US look it provided. The fashion and Bean Pole. the domestic fashion brands department store Bloomingdale’s label made news in 2008 when it for Spring 2010. Riva, one of the most successful in Turkey Damat, Tween and struck a more-than-million-Pula local fashion brands of Kuwait ADV, forecasted 33% growth Uniqlo soaring high with new deal with the Botswana Football has established itself as a in 2011 through the opening of stores Association (BFA) to dress the hugely successful Middle East new stores, already enjoying national soccer team, Zebras. fashion brand since its origin good response from London the Uniqlo has opened up its largest Anno Domini, formed in 2008 is in 2001. Singapore’s local brands are expected to move store in Manhattan, following a still doing well and is growing new business strategy. Tadashi fashion brand Hansel came to on to new destinations to make strong. Mafia Soul, one of the Yanai, the Chief Executive and existence in 2003 and has grown a global impression. Singapore most enduring fashion labels Founder of Uniqlo, said that the to be a popular favourite and brands are also making their in Botswana founded in 2001 Japanese companies are doomed commissioned to design uniforms presence felt overseas, from if they don’t go global. He believes have been featured in videos of and merchandise for various high-end boutiques in New York that Fast Retailing will push their South African Hip-hop artist, reputable firms, including DBS and London to emerging retail quality standards even more and Young Nations. Local artists and Bank, Maybelline New York enclaves in Hanoi. Alldressed, distinguish itself to become a brand Eureka have also endorsed the that represents Japan in the world. and the Lexus Cup, apart from launched in 2005, holds its brand and it certainly looks like To combat their economy, Uniqlo this the brand has designed for campaign twice a year for buyers the brand is here to stay. plans to open flagship and large many Hollywood stars indicating in top fashion capitals like New stores in Europe, US, New York, Bustling Xidan Street in that no one is untouched by the York and Milan. Raoul, launched Paris and London, as well as regular downtown Beijing apart from presence of these brands. in 2002 as a men’s brand by retail outlets in other major cities. being home to dozens of clothing group FJ Benjamin, has now Going global with their stores is also a testimony to the added a well received women’s New President for JCPenney success… growing popularity of domestic wear line, spread over Dubai, JCPenney announced that it brands. Not only are Zara and Opened in 2009, 242 People Bahrain, Indonesia and the has appointed Michael Francis H&M full of chic teenagers, Clothing Co, the official clothing Philippines. South African brand as its President, most recently but so too is their Chinese brand of The Bahamas is seeing 46664 launched a global apparel a senior executive at Target competitor Meters Bonwe. a year-on-year increase in sales brand on 29th July 2011. Not well Corporation. He will report to Other names like PYE, JNBY, and the company has been known by everyone but, these incoming JCPenney Chief Executive generating profits, the company brands are here to stay and grow. Officer Ron Johnson and will be Ochirly, Septwolves, Lilanz and responsible for all merchandising, Cabeen have also witnessed today releases a new line every The growing numbers of these marketing, planning and allocation, growth in sales over past few three to four months, selling local fashion brands entering the and product development and years. Hong Kong-based fashion on an average of 3,000 pieces retail structure suggests that sourcing functions at a time brand Bossini also launched each time and is now looking the consumers might have when the company is focusing on the “be happy” campaign this on to new markets to expand. changed their spending habits, redefining the department store. month, introducing its new Former Olympic gymnast Li but have not diverted from their Francis has more than 25 years Ning’s sportswear brand Li-Ning habit to spend. The local fashion of merchandising and marketing brand ambassador, Hong Kong experience, which started in actress Cherrie Ying. Korean fast Co Ltd. is a top domestic brand labels have used this to their 1986 as an executive trainee with fashion brand SPAO launched in in China, with more than 7,900 advantage and have captured a Marshall Field’s in Chicago. 2009 made a big splash when it stores across the country plans market for themselves.

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WORLDWRAP

B R U C E ’ S I N S I G H T S Bruce Replies…

Rahul Bangera, working with a STAGNATION! Buying office: I’d like to know your views on the role of buying houses for the future. Do you think INFLATION! = HARD that there is a general attitude to cut out the middle-man and work TIMES! directly with the supplier, or is there a sustainable future for buying agencies in their current form? could have said “Depression, Continued Bruce: I have written many times, Recession, Non-survival, Closures, “There is nothing as permanent or Bankruptcies”! This is the first as Change”, but change is not time I have felt that there is “NO always easy or fast or slow. New I EXCITEMENT” in our textile/apparel communication networks have industry. somewhat changed the Sourcing Many governments are unstable; Methods… The “OLD SCHOOL” of an governmental corruption, old cultural entity whether it be a manufacturer/ disputes still plague the trust of risk taking importer, or a retailer is to work in the business community, banks, with directly with the vendor/supplier money not lending, no immediate solutions of the end-product. As the need for for unemployment, political philosophy’s different classifications are required Bruce S.Berton taking precedence over solving problems, to supply the vast consumer through Executive Vice President & COO, new ideas not being supported, and Roochi Traders Inc., USA the retailer, an agent to source all worldwide leadership is either being Direct your queries to: [email protected] the different types of merchandise overthrown with no replacement, or the retailer may need, will be an leadership having only old status quo integral part of the importing When academia, government, and corporate, movement on how to solve these problems. methods needed to service this ever get together especially in the USA, retailer or importer/manufacturer Raw materials that have become maybe we can prepare our students for jobs that may have many divisions, for a commodities are now out of normal business that are needed, rather than have already long profitable future. “supply and demand” formulas, but in the been outdated. hands of speculators, that can change the We have in the USA presidential The Old Importer usually creates value without really being in the finished commissions, working on this issue, that in agents in order to achieve the product marketplace. my humble opinion are just a lot of talk and quality, consistency, and maintain Where is the EXCITEMENT!... The word non responsive to our unemployment issues, RELATIONSHIPS, so they have an FASHION is supposed to be the catalyst that that exist today. uninterrupted flow of merchandise. moves our industry forward. I have been going to seminars introducing The retailer because of so many The so-called runway shows are becoming the new Free Trade countries of Columbia, different products change quickly, and “OLD HAT”, the large designer lines, are not Korea, Panama, and Haiti when it is official also they do not have the time being creative or inventive, (true they must by the end of each year it will enhance their or desire to have any legal be Lean and Mean in these economic times), exports into the USA greatly. relationship with the vendor directly; but this should not take away the creative We in the USA need to export our products, will either use the Brokers, Agents, PZZAH!, that makes us want to purchase just as much as the countries we in the USA Agencies, 3rd party professional something new. are buying from, and Free Trade agreements, firms, in order to be at what is is a great path to do so. Since China has called “ARMS LENGTH”, from the I have been in the international marketplace raised prices over the past few years, actual manufacturer. for many years, and I realize that new domestic needs in the country are growing, (NAFTA) Mexico, Canada, USA, (CAFTA) Central America Countries of Guatemala, From the Li & Fung’s, Mast so maybe, the international recognition El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Industries, to the smaller of NEW FASHION IDEAS are not being Rica, and Dominican Republic, has increased independent agents or agencies, developed as it normally would, but it in volume for 2011, and for 2012 it is they are needed, but in order just seems that playing it safe, and not expected to have double digits increases of to deliver what their clients’ developing new textiles, or styles of export to the USA. needs, rather than just supplying garments are creating stagnation and the service of getting the items not excitement. We need “Entrepreneurship” to start taking produced, in today’s market they Stagnation is also being caused, by the us out of the stagnation we are now in, and now have to present new ideas to youth today who are graduating from higher regulate the speculators that are causing the their clients’ in order for them not education, expecting either a management inflation of raw materials. to be thought of as just a facilitator, position, or the government of their country Have a profitable 4th quarter, as we are but rather as an innovator. to place them in jobs. already half way through October.

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Social responsibility is never out of fashion… Proving to be deeper and more than just fashion, brands and retailers are taking important steps and initiatives to be more socially responsible. Comprising of ethical values with styles, these brands have proved that quality runs through the entire process of their product. With big names like Nike, Gucci, Puma, Adidas and many more joining hands to ban cotton from Uzbekistan involving child labour, the industry is not only concerned, they are doing something about it too.

ecently, more than have signed a pledge to not Group, home to luxury labels 60 of the world’s knowingly source Uzbekistan like Gucci, Puma, Yves Saint best known apparel cotton harvested using forced Laurent, and Stella McCartney Rcompanies and brands child labour. The companies are are stepping up their Corporate as well as the American Apparel to maintain this pledge until Social Responsibility (CSR) and Footwear Association the elimination of this practice with the launch of PPR Home, (AAFA), representing more than which is to be independently an in-house sustainability 800 brands including names verified by the International team to implement the best like PPR Group (Gucci, Bottega Labour Organization (ILO). business practices, work Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Steps like these by the brands toward reducing and mitigating Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, goes a long way to prove the social and environmental Alexander McQueen, PUMA, that the industry is no longer impacts and developing Volcom, Redcats), PVH Corp., disconnected with the process opportunities for the benefit of Target Corporation, The TJX of where and how their people and their environments. Companies Inc., The Jones garments are made, while some As a result of increasing Group, VF Corporation, Walmart still run after quantity and demand for ethical clothing by Stores Inc., ASDA, Better Homes price factors, there is a growing the consumers, it has become & Gardens Canopy, Faded number of retailer/brands in standard practice for UK Glory, George, Home Trends, the industry which looks at clothing retailers to develop Mainstays, Adidas Group the quality and ethics of the CSR policies which impact (Adidas, Reebok, Taylor-Made, supply chain of their products. upon their methods of garment Adidas Golf) and many more Fashion conglomerate PPR sourcing and partnerships with suppliers. The traditional perception that ethical clothing is unfashionable, has been challenged with an increasing level of participation by established fashion designers and known brands in the field. Several leading UK retailers have launched ranges of organic or Fair Trade clothing in the last few years. Market leader Marks & Spencer introduced garments made from Fair Trade cotton in 2006, followed in 2007 by its planned strategy to promote its commitment to ethical issues. Fashion retailers Monsoon and New Look sold Fair Trade clothing and organic cotton T-shirts during the same People protesting through rally’s to stop child labour in cotton fields period. Established designer

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Katharine Hamnett launched an The traditional ethical fashion range in 2007, perception that CSR initiatives in the Apparel Industry incorporating organic cotton. ethical clothing is People Tree and Gossypium unfashionable, has are amongst the niche clothing been challenged with brands utilizing green textiles in an increasing level  UK hosiery firm awarded M&S eco-factory their products, and casual wear status of participation by brand Howies sells products established fashion manufactured from recycled designers and known cotton fabric. brands in the field. H&M has announced a target for all cotton to come from more sustainable sources by 2020, in With celebrities, models, fact, H&M played an active role in and designers such as Stella forming the Sustainable Apparel McCartney, Rogan Gregory, Peter Coalition, working to create Ingwersen, Ali Hewson, Bono, a universal index to show the Stewart Brown and Summer environmental impact and fair Rayne Oakes drawing attention labour practices for clothing and to socially-conscious and footwear production and saved environmentally friendly fashion, 50 million litres of water in denim the masses are not far behind. production this year. Noir and the Increased media coverage Courtaulds, based in Derbyshire, secures Marks & Spencer ‘plan-A’ eco-factory award for 2011 organic cotton brand Illuminati and consumer awareness has II were founded concurrently in also played a very important Courtaulds leg-wear, a factory based in Derbyshire, with more 2005 and the diffusion line Bllack role in building up an industry than 400 employees, has secured its future by turning itself into an eco-factory, reducing its energy bill by half and saving millions in the process. Marks & Spencer has awarded its Plan-A eco-factory status to this factory, which also has been supplying M&S with hosiery for more than 30 years. It is the first UK clothing factory to receive this award, following the roll-out from M&S’s eco model factories in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. Jonny Mitchell, the Managing Director of Courtaulds leg-wear, said the factory’s changes, such as reduced energy and water consumption, have given an “edge again to be able to compete with the Far East”. Marks & Spencer has a 28 per cent share of the British hosiery market, with an average product turnaround time of 3.5 weeks. A UK-based factory can respond to these fast-moving fashion trends much quicker.

 Textile cleanup – A success in Bangladesh Several leading UK retailers have launched ranges of organic or Fair Trade clothing in the last few years. Market leader Marks & Spencer introduced garments made from Fair Trade cotton in 2006, followed in 2007 The World Bank’s International Finance Corporation (IFC) by its planned strategy to promote its commitment to ethical issues. has declared the initiative to use global expertise to clean up Bangladesh’s notoriously dirty wet textile processing units, Noir was introduced in 2008, the where fashion has taken an a success. It has helped to install new cleaner and efficient three Danish brands work and important step in building up production equipment in 12 factories so far, reducing water were introduced on the principles a complaint environment in consumption by annual 75 m litres and saving US $ 1 m in of social responsibility. Examples the entire supply chain of their operating costs. This action was taken after a series of pollution like these present us with fashion product. Traceability tools are incidents happened in Bangladesh involving its textile sector. bodies who are contributing to also becoming increasingly For a country where 31 m people lack clean water, this was both the society their profits, as popular, usually in the form of an a very serious problem. IFC has worked with six major social responsibility has become interactive map displaying each international buyers – Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), KappAhl, more of a choice amongst the stage of the supply chain. Lindex, Mothercare, Levi’s, and WE Fashion – and Dutch buyers and it enhances the The concept of social international development group Solidaridad, along with brand image as well. sustainability is no longer a lip The UK Department for International Development and the service for brands and many Norwegian Agency for Development Co-operation, to deliver Though, corporate social examples have emerged of technological improvements. The World Bank arm’s Monika responsibility has impacted the seriousness intent to Weber-Fahr added: “The success of this project will allow the policies and behaviour of the Bangladesh textile sector to gain a competitive edge by companies throughout the world, support ethical manufacturing, showcasing a greener supply chain.” relatively little attention has while condemning supply chains been devoted to the link between that are unable to weed out CSR and strategic marketing. bad practices.

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Buyers As Worried As Exporters As Orders Slow Down… Hint at Changing Buying Patterns After talking to the exporters in the last issue of Apparel Online, it made sense to question the buying offices on the current buying position and the indications coming from the international clients. Though every buying office had a different response to their own order position, the common thread was the fact that there is certainly a slowdown in business and buyers are being very cautious in their sourcing. Just how long the problem will remain is a very tricky prediction, but how to tackle the issue has many suggestions; conditions are tough, but not insurmountable...

Recession is the word today,” says Vivek Bhatnagar, money, the motto is to stay low we all have been hearing Fusion Consulting. Fusion risk. With no new orders and a for so long, but the effect customers have placed orders, 30 per cent fall in the current is being felt now,” says but there is a drop of around ones from regular clients in US, “ 10% on the overall quantity; Canada and Europe have forced Sameer Thapar, Montrose India. He adds, “Garment however the knits categories are many exporters to look for newer business for the US, Canada and showing higher growth still as avenues. And the countries Europe has really slowed down, opposed to the woven garments. they are now looking at are: with costs increasing for various “The trend visible is that for the Russia, Brazil, Argentine and other essential commodities, coming seasons there shall also Japan. From my interactions I garments is one category which be delayed decisions to buy as feel Tirupur and Punjab-based gets affected first, pushing the the market is uncertain and for suppliers are the ones mostly slowdown in our industry.” brands to plan their sales has facing a very tough season,” says Montrose is buying garments become even more difficult,” Kaplesh Kabra, Kalp Exim. mostly for the US market, the adds Vivek. Many buyers feel that the impact prime customer for the company At Mumbai based Kalp Exim, the on sourcing is coming more from being Jones Apparel, though downfall of orders is of over 30%. the big retailers. “Orders are smaller brands like Bydesign are “The confusion over the US and very slow moving, as the larger also on the customer list. Last Europe economy is somewhat customers have taken a back year the buying office which has keeping the buyers at bay, and seat. The boutique customers are operations in India worth over buyers in Europe specially are rather active. In fact we are very $ 10 million added Canada to very conscious in spending their happy right now to work with its list of client countries, but business there is also slow. In fact, almost all the buyers agree that business this season Kaplesh Kabra, Kalp is quite slow compared to the Exim with his buyer, previous two years at this time of Martin Mohr MD of the season. Many feel that even Washlender Group in case of buyers where orders GMBH - With no new have come in, the numbers orders and a 30 per are really small. “The mood in cent fall in the current Europe is not to buy too much ones from regular but it is also not that buying is not happening, it’s just that clients in US, Canada brands are not taking risks and and Europe have forced carrying stocks. The Express many exporters to look collections are starting to do for newer avenues, better as they are buying newer says Kabra and fast fashion that is the trend

22 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 industryupdate

boutique customers as they are Many expect to get orders by end This is putting a lot of pressure claimed that sales figures that giving small quantities no doubt November, but this is just a hope on deliveries and prices,” says they have received from 11 of but good prices,” says Mukta and there is no certainty. It will Aroona Mann, Hausmod, the most prominent retailers Malhotra, SAAR International. depend entirely on how garment which is primarily working with in Europe and the US show She adds, “Orders from larger sales move in the west, which customers in Europe. that sales are much slower this customers have just started depends on a number of macro The change in buying patterns season. They say that retailers trickling in at very minimal level factors that influences is also challenging the buying are still placing programs quantities. As per our larger the sentiments of end user and offices. “The trend is also to in order to have inventory customers the orders will come that holds the retailers to take buy lesser style and fabric manufactured and ready, but but late where retailers will then a optimistic view about S/S. options and brands do not they will accept deliveries if the want miracles, for vendors to “Bottom line is that there is no want quantities distributed sales are good. If not – there will perform in short span of time. In clarity on when and how much across more style and fabric be cancellations on false this case the fabric suppliers will orders will actually come in,” options rather they also want pretexts (colour not matching have to gear up to deliver fabric says Sameer. The impact is more to consolidate and meet their etc., etc…). This according to in shorter lead time the whole powerful since spring/summer budgets. Therefore from them is where the real worry lies. scenario will have to change.” is the key season for exporters distribution of a number of “We are better off with fewer Most of the retailers that are in India. “Spring/Summer being styles across multiple vendors orders than with huge returns deferring their orders for S/S biggest season for India, it is we have a limited ability today. and cancellations,” says the have stocks and they are waiting really becoming difficult for Fusion customers also have buying office. exporters and would certainly to see the winter demand before adapted to the trends that are In such a scenario not many effect business in the long run for taking a call. Normally during friendly in certain countries in are ready to make a guess as the garment industry in India,” this time of the year, most of Europe which are still stable and to when the situation will be adds Sameer. the garment factories are fully growing and for these brands back on track. What the buyers booked till February. However At Triburg, the orders from most those are the export markets do say is that the task is uphill. this time of the year, a lot of of its clients have come in and which are bringing in growth,” “Though most of us feel that the factories have spare capacities while with some products the says Vivek. situation should improve in first for January production. “As per orders are a little less in others Not wanting to be mentioned, quarter of 2012, but this may not my discussions with many of they are more. “Overall we are a leading buying office in Delhi be sustainable if the US falls into my buyer colleagues at a rough hitting targets this year, though estimate, there is a 50% cut in a lot of exporters they work garment orders as compared to with are complaining that they last year and out of the balance are seeing a dip in numbers in “The mood in Europe is 50% orders, the retailers are their total export basket. The not to buy too much but asking the exporters to defer way the markets in the west are it is also not that buying production. Also there is behaving will impact business is not happening, it’s tremendous pressure on prices next year… we think we will see just that brands are as many exporters in the last the slowdown in numbers for not taking risks and few weeks picked some orders fall 2012,” predicts Jayashree carrying stocks. The assuming softening of cotton Rai, Triburg. Another buying prices, however due to firm raw office which claims to have hit Express collections are material prices and low/late targets is Hausmod, though starting to do better as arrivals of new cotton, cotton still they too have reservations they are buying newer remains firm,” shares Sharad on the next season. “Buyers and fast fashion Sanghai, Texperts, which is are a little apprehensive in Vivek Bhatnagar sourcing garments, fabrics and ordering earlier and they want Fusion Consulting yarn for customers in both the to place order at short term US and EU. deliveries, which is in season.

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 23 industryupdate

capitalized upon. “Exporters “Ship the best should plan to travel more possible quality… frequently as Indians are generally much behind the that’s the only thing Chinese exporters and the which will keep other Asian counterparts in exporters going. terms of travelling and being No one wants to be in the face of the buyers. This saddled with a bad is a strategy that will be a quality product which key for all people who want to does not sell, so focus expand. The second thing is to on quality, quality and get the prices for printing and yarndyeds down as there is a more quality,” huge business potential India loses out with regards to the Jayashree Rai, Triburg yarndyeds fabric pricing and lead time and there no one competes with China,” he says. Adds Aroona, “the only answer another recession and Eurozone the time they realized, a certain keep exporters going. No one is to reduce margins and give problems persist. It cannot amount of business was placed wants to be saddled with a bad substantially low prices and be overlooked that though the elsewhere,” she argues. quality product which does not work on short term deliveries major part of delayed orders sell, so focus on quality, quality Many buyers are already in order to give the buyers are due to slowdown in sales and more quality,” advises anticipating the trickle-down room for working in season Jayashree. Completely agreeing higher interest rates, instability effect of the situation. “The and not taking extra risks. with her, Sameer adds, “The in financial markets, increased export industry will be hit We also need to accept lower tolerance levels have to be unemployment as well as lower harder than expected as the quantities in order to keep the brought down, as there is no growth should the US fall into quantum simply isn’t there and business going.” recessionary conditions, may there will be an inequitable room for slip ups. Obviously in Presently, it is a wait and watch only add to the mess,” cautions distribution of business as the a very difficult business climate scenario, the primary focus Kabra. “I would not like to business will be lifted by people and retail business in stores of the major business is to call it ‘recession’, but yes the who are able to offer product becoming challenging, sales make the break-even margins overall financial and economic diversity and greater degree of being off, stores are looking for and wait for the situation to situation of Europe and the US product developments. Prices excuses for quality problems or improve. “Personally I feel that looks gloomy. For last one year everyone has to compete with late deliveries to cancel goods. reviving up will take at least we have also seen the political but if the learning curve for So it is the time to execute on 5 years! This is also creating instability in countries like product development is short time and correctly.” a major issue and is forcing Syria, Libya, etc. have created and the buyers are able to see Controlling costs, retaining the specialized traders to look a depressing mood at the the developments that are on existing customers by serving into other ventures like real consumer level, due to which trend then business placement them in the best possible estate, which can give back the common man has fear about is inevitable,” reasons Vivek. manner so that they stay along good returns and low risk! On the future and is not willing to Of course with low or less and don’t look for alternatives, the other side, Government is spend,” adds Sanghai. orders, the exporters too and putting concerted efforts not doing enough to support Although most of the buyers will hold their buying, which in exploring newer markets/ exporters significantly which blame the current buying will actually affect the whole customers/applications as there can save them enough position on the global economic industry. “This would mean a are a number of new avenues margins to remain in the situation, Mukta feels that lot to suppliers who will have opening on account of various industry,” says Kabra. FTA/PTA’s and increasing Indian exporters too are to take actions for cost cutting, However, not all is lost and demand in developing countries to be partly blamed for the which will mean lay offs and many feel that the churning especially Asia are some of the decrease in business. “No doubt less buying will be a double is happening and not only the suggestions offered. “Exporters recession is the key factor but blow to raw material traders exporters, but the retailers should focus on new markets more so the increase in yarn and thus cresting the whole are also making effort to get and South America is certainly prices in-between is also a chain of slow down. Further for business back on track. “I feel a good option today,” says major factor where retailers buyers as such in the case of a that the growth will soon be Amita Batra, Rubric Apparels. placed some of their businesses depreciating dollar, exporters there as this is also the time It has also been suggested that in countries where prices were will have to bear the loss as a when the brands and retailers sharper, that is where vendors cut in margins which in some there needs to be a platform are consolidating and trying to were smart to cut down their cases will also lead to loss,” for sharing experiences. Any enter new markets in Europe margins and react proactively predicts Kabra. factory approaching a new so brands are appointing to the situation with a long-term Buyers were very vocal in what customer should be aware of various agents for selling in vision. Whereas in India the the industry needs to do to their track record. core growing markets of France vendors were firm and were stay preferred suppliers. “Ship Vivek feels that there is and Germany. Poland is also not ready to cut their margins the best possible quality… an opportunity in every becoming an important player and suffered in the interim, by that’s the only thing which will recession and that needs to be for Exports,” concludes Vivek.

24 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 industrywire

New emerging markets provide relief to exporters…

ith market slow down Win traditional markets, Indian exporters are looking G N Exports coming up with first out for new markets to enter and cover up their losses. garmenting unit in Varanasi Consequently, exports from India are rising to emerging markets across the world in South Established be the first garmenting unit in The unit is coming up in 80,000 American countries, Kuwait in 1966, Varanasi. “We are getting very sq. feet area and with 100% power and South Africa. Even though, Varanasi good support from DC Handloom back up. For the factory layout, the put together, the exports to based and we are planning to produce company has hired a Bangalore emerging markets account for G N Exports high-end ladies garments with based consulting company called a known about only 8 per cent of total handloom fabrics both for the Centre for Excellent Designing name for founded by Milind Ulkar, who exports, they have contributed domestic as well as export sarees, was also consultant for Bombay disproportionately to growth in market. We are putting hand exports over the past two years. fabrics, Rayon’s garmenting unit. Besides embroidered fabrics and scarves/ embroidery, adda-work, this, for machines they are taking Kuwait and South Africa have computer embroidery, digital seen over 100 per cent growths stoles is setting up a world class consultancy from IIGM who are also printers, laser cutting machines in 2010-11, while the others garment factory in the city of their machine supplier along with all under one roof,” shares have grown between 45 and 65 holy Ganga by the name of G N Technopak. With a total investment Mukund B. Agrawal, Director per cent. With high success rate Designer Handlooms Pvt. Ltd. The of Rs. 12 crore, the plant would be of business in these emerging unit with 400 machines would of the company. commissioned by March 2012. markets, many Indian exporters are trying their luck in the unknown yet potential markets with an optimistic approach and nnerwear maker Page Industries has recently tied a view for relief. Iup with swimwear brand Speedo International Page Industries gets to manufacture, market and distribute the brand Nitin International, Delhi in India. Under the exclusive licensing agreement, after struggling to cope up license of Speedo the Bangalore-based Page Industries will make with financial crisis caused swimwear, watershorts, apparel, equipment due to late payments from the Swimwear and footwear in India. These products will hit US and EU markets and other shelves in January 2012. The Rs. 491-crore labour issues has taken a turn Page Industries is the exclusive license partner towards the South American of Jockey International till 2030. Besides India, it market and will export there as manufactures for Sri Lanka, Republic of Maldives, well, along with their existing Bangladesh, Nepal and the Middle East market. base in Europe and America. While one company is looking The Pentland Group, makers of Ted Baker and for a new market for survival, Ellesse, owns Speedo and the Australian brand is Jaipur based Anmol Exports is distributed in 170 countries. “As Speedo continues looking forward to work with new to develop its global market presence, India is markets as they are planning an extremely important market for Speedo,” to expand their business. With said Michael O’Donnell, Vice-President of good response and orders International Business Development for from the existing buyers and Speedo, pointing out that a large number of tie ups with new buyers, the people in India are now taking up swimming as a organization is expecting good fitness and lifestyle option. orders and has expanded Excited about the opportunity, Sunder Ashok their manufacturing unit by Genomal, MD, Page Industries Ltd. said adding 100 more machines in Speedo’s product technology and marketing anticipation. Anmol Exports is leadership, clubbed with Page Industries’ expertise starting exports to South Africa in manufacturing and distribution, will forge a and Russia for higher profits. mutually beneficial partnership.

26 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 industrywire

Two new garmenting units for New Entrant to Industry sees growth NSL Textiles Tulsi Exports adds 100 more Adds 850 Sewing Machines machines in less than a year

yderabad based NSL Textiles resources are the key reasons to hile the old players in the industry are HLtd. has recently gone for go for expansion. “Presently 20% Wstruggling, Tulsi Exports from Pushkar, major expansion. The company of our garmenting production is Rajasthan is a new entrant which started has put up one garment unit with for the export market, however manufacturing about a year ago with just 30 capacity of 3000 with the expansion it is expected machines. The company is now adding 100 pieces per day with to grow to 70%,” states Ravi who more machines riding on positive feedback from 300 machines is a B. Tech in Textile Technology its buyers in Latin America. and also created and an MBA. He also carries a rich The exporter is also very upbeat and work on an additional new experience in apparel supply chain the new factory is underway on a land of about unit at a different management, operations, design location for 6000 & product development, product 33,000 sq. feet. The proposed factory has pieces per day with merchandising and sourcing and already been bought near the old factory and 550 machines. has worked with Arvind Brands, machines are being installed. “We hope to get the factory running commercially by May 2012,” Before putting up Raymond, and Aditya Birla Group. says Bhagwan Khatri, MD, Tulsi Exports. The the new units, For NSL, a Rs. 1500 crores Group company is manufacturing ladies wear with a NSL had two units with many streams of business FOB range of $ 2 to $ 10. with combined machine strength like infrastructure, power, sugar, of 1100 machines. The company seeds and textiles, the garment The new factory will not only cater to existing is manufacturing cotton shirts manufacturing division is among the buyers but also to newly developed buyers in and tops and now it’s planning to smallest, but with huge potential for Spain, Australia and France. “We have had produce bottoms/trousers. growth. Presently the garmenting regular business since the start and orders According to Ravi Advani, Head – turnover of the company is Rs. 30 are aplenty, so it made sense to expand and Garments, good backup of fabrics, crores and in the next fiscal it is increase our presence in the export market,” complimented with good marketing expecting to touch Rs. 70 crores. concludes Khatri.

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 27 domesticretail

Brands from Garment Exporters face uphill task… Yet some build strategies that keep them moving

ver the past few years to understand their needs and an increasing number wants. For creating any brand, Though many garment exporters of garment exporters it is important to define your have over the last few years Ohave entered the positioning and your target retail arena while companies customers and then your ventured into the domestic like Orient Craft, Bombay Rayon offer to the target group. You Fashions, Mandhana Industries, cannot be selling everything to market with their own brands The Shirt Company and Prateek everybody. But majority of the or licensed brands, not all of Apparels preferred to take the garment exporters fail on these licensing route partnering with critical activities and think of them have been successful. already established brands, retailing as an extension for Besides the challenges of retail Others like BL International, the products they already have. as a separate and distinct Viraj Exports, TCNS, Aster They are unable to disassociate Apparels, Akriti Apparels and themselves from the garment business model from garment many more opted to create exporting business to treat the exports, the choice of products their own brand for market in retail venture as a separate India. The path to penetrate the business model. There are and brand positioning have retail market for each has been various examples such as EAST also been a major problem for challenging and while some are by Orient Craft, Avocado by satisfied with their growth path Richa Knits, Mayur Décor from most. The increasing inflow many others have closed down or Mayur Overseas, discounted of international lifestyle and sold off their brands to domestic brands such as Priknit from manufacturers. inspirational brands has also Proknit Exports, TNG from “Garment exporters come from Ankit Garment, etc. which dented the scope of home grown a different business with a were launched by garment brands as the consumer prefers completely different mindset. exporters and failed due to They have expertise in making lack of focus and inappropriate to buy an international brand products for international approach towards target market given a choice. brands and meeting their order segmentation and brand requirements, without any building efforts. expertise in retail. So, when they The success of international start thinking of retailing, they bands like, Promod, Mango, primarily think about the ways Zara, Vero Moda, Only and Jack of reaching the consumers to sell N Jones, on the other hand is to the export surplus they have,” a large extent founded on the argues Prashant Agarwal, Jt extensive market research done MD, Wazir Advisors. This is before opening up in India, due indeed one of the biggest reasons to which they have prices and for setbacks, it is important to silhouettes which suit the Indian understand that the Indian retail market seeking greater success landscape is different from the in the Indian subcontinent. With US and EU and the preferences international brands giving also changes. Even International better and competitive prices as Kazo, from exporter brands selling in India take into BL International compared to many local brands, is among the new consideration local preferences the consumer prefers to buy Indian brands in colour, fit, size and detailing an international tag for a much that is growing in before finalizing the collections. popularity for its cheaper price, than investing International look Exporters are not investing in expensive silhouettes from a and global appeal on brand development say domestic retailer. International for the modren Indian woman retail experts. Most exporters brands also provide customers jump into the fray without with better customer service, adequate consumer research like 100% payback option if not

28 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 domesticretail

happy with the purchase, which is Another success story is ‘W’ a sizeable market share or an added bonus and attraction for Most exporters jump from TCNS, but then they are not will they prefer to remain the consumer. into the fray without competing with the international boutique stores with limited Indeed these foreign brands have adequate consumer brands and was the first attempt access is any bodies guess. forced Indian brands to rethink research to understand at reinventing Indian fashion with Is the constantly rising real their strategy. Mauh which was their needs and wants. a lineup of fusion wear comprising estate prices a constraint for created by Rohan Bhargava of For creating any brand, trousers, skirts, tunics, tops and growth or is it the challenge of Viraj Exports in 2007 on the lines it is important to tees along with an exciting winter managing inventories that is of FCUK and Zara was one such define your positioning outerwear line. “Today W is the keeping them from expanding brand that was badly hit when and your target only national brand providing total or the lack of understanding ZARA made an entry in India in customers and then wardrobe solution under one roof of the people and how to your offer to the target to the modern Indian woman,” create a brand larger than 2010. However, The brand has group. You cannot be repositioned itself and is today says Anant Daga, CEO of W. Set- life. Do we even have the right selling everything to up in 2002-03 in Delhi, today W has knowledge partners to help targeting young party hoppers everybody. who are making money at a 51 Brand Stores and a total of 500 carry the concept forward young age and need a new dress touch points across India. or are exporters dependent every time, without doling out a and Juno from Aster Apparels It is difficult to measure success on their limited exposure to bomb. “As the partying culture (Tirupur) and Beebay from Akriti and though the above brands Indian market. It cannot be hits a high point and people want Apparels (Faridabad) are prime claim to be popular, the critical denied that the major Indian trendy clothes, they might shop examples of success stories. question is whether they have brands that are big come from from a big label occasionally, but The deep understanding of the the vision and resources to domestic manufacturers or for the rest of the time, they want Indian market for kids and the become huge billion dollar corporate houses… is the retail something unique for their weekly gap that exists for good quality retailers in the league of Zara space real as big as retail parties,” says Rohan. Price, of offerings has helped these two or GAP. As of today they are consultants claim it to be course, is the biggest selling point garment exporters hit the bull’s very small players in the giving scope to new players or for these boutiques. “Dresses, eye. “We ensure children’s wear Indian retail scene… will they is success just about having a blouses and accessories priced is not inspired by adult clothing in the next decade capture few profitable stores! between Rs. 700 and Rs. 3,000 are ideas, a common phenomenon in a big draw,” asserts Rohan. The international kids clothing. You strategy has paid off and Muah can’t sell in the Indian market is already in Mumbai and is now if you give adult clothing for expanding to Bangalore. children. The strategy is to Another Garment exporter show a constant change in brand that is targeting the the product mix because party hoppers is KAZO, from children grow up very fast and the house of BL International the rotation of styles is the under the directorship of Deepak maximum compared to all other Aggarwal. From single store in categories,” says Unnamalai, 2007, today they have 14 stores CEO, Aster Apparels. across India and another six are Ant was introduced in July 2006 expected to open over the next and last financial year they six months. “We consider Kazo acquired Juno and Zyxw from an international brand as we are a Bangalore-based company. retailing not only in India but By March 2012, the company in Holland also under a license plans 40 to 50 stores across agreement. Further, we have the country. While Aster’s forte design studios in Barcelona and is knits, Beebay is more into Paris,” says Deepak. With the woven garments though knits entry of Zara, Kazo came up with is also a major category. Within a traffic collection designed to get a span of two years since its the girls into the stores. Priced inception, Beebay has fast below Zara, the collection is a grown with presence in more footfall puller, but the real thrust than 24 locations all over India. is on the boutique collection which “The brand is among the first is high-end. in India to launch internet sales A market which has seen the online through its website www. biggest influx of Indian brands beebayonline.com supported from garment exporters is the by our sister concern Royal kidswear market. The segment Datamatics which is also is not so difficult and exporters providing ERP support to Akriti’s working in the segment are well entire manufacturing and retail aware of the basic norms in operation,” shares Avanish Jain, kidswear. Brands like Ant, Zyxw Director Akriti.

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 29 indiacanvas

S.V. Arumugam is new Chairman of CITI 5th Container Terminal okayed at JNPT

n a meeting held recently, Industries. Apart from being to increase handling capacity the Committee of the in the main board of several IConfederation of Indian major textile companies, he is Textile Industry (CITI) has currently Managing Committee elected S.V. Arumugam as member, Synthetic and Rayon Chairman of CITI for the Textiles Export Promotions year 2011-12, Prem Malik as Council (SRTEPC) of India, Deputy Chairman and Mukund Director of Cotton Association Choudhary as Vice Chairman. of India and also engaged in Arumugam is a charted textile exports. accountant and the Managing Mukund Choudhary, Functional Director of Bannari Amman Director, CLC Group is also a Spinning Mills Ltd. and member of the Committee of also Honorary Secretary Administration of the Cotton of Indian Wind Power Textiles Export Promotion Association, Chennai. Council (TEXPROCIL), The other office bearers President of Northern India have also played important Textile Mills Association JNPT to expand handling capacity roles in the industry. Prem (NITMA) and Chairman of Malik, currently running a the Young Business Leaders Management Consultancy in Forum of the PHD Chamber of awaharlal Nehru Port JN port has three terminals textiles, has a work experience Commerce and Industry and (JNPT), Mumbai has at present, two run by private of over 43 years with companies an active member of the Young Jrecently announced its parties and one by the port like Bombay Dyeing and Mafatlal Presidents Organization too. plans for a fifth container trust with a design to handle a terminal at the port to total of 3.6 million twenty-foot accommodate the increase equivalent units a year. in freight volumes expected. In the meanwhile, the fourth TEA request to include Non-SME Garment This is a long-term project terminal is under construction Sectors in Interest Scheme for India’s largest container at a cost of INR 6,700 crore gateway. In recent months which will be the single largest irupur Exporters’ and knitwear exporting units. the shipping lines have been foreign direct investment (FDI) Association (TEA) has Even the non-SME export forced to miss calling at the in the Indian port sector. JNPT Trequested the Commerce sectors, particularly garment port and re-route to further up is one of the 13 major ports in and Industry Minister Anand and knitwear exporters have the west coast, so freight has the country that handled 4.27 Sharma to include non-SME been hit due to high interest to be carried further miles on million containers last fiscal garment and knitwear sectors rates and have lost their the road. year, nearly 5% more than it under the 2% interest subvention competitiveness in the global The terminal with a designed did in the previous year. The on rupee export credit for market and are struggling capacity to handle 4.8 million port handles more than half revival of units. The decline in financially. Considering the twenty-foot equivalent units of the container traffic in the demand, in US and EU markets impact, A. Sakthivel, President, annually will increase the JN country and so a fifth container has significantly affected the TEA, believes the request should Port’s capacity to more than terminal comes out as a bright performance of the garment be considered. double on completion. The plan for everyone.

RETAIL Snips Daniel Hechter will Daiso in talks to tie-up KVIC moving on to Hermès opens at open 10 outlets in India with Reliance Retail have a makeover street-level in India

Daniel Hechter, the French lifestyle Japanese company Daiso is in talks Khadi and Village Industries French luxury brand Hermès has brand, best known for its sporty, with Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Commission (KVIC) is looking at opened its first standalone store elegant and sophisticated product Retail to enter the Indian market, modern retailing concepts and in Mumbai making it the first style to popularize Khadi among luxury brand to open a street-level portfolio is planning to open at with a joint venture tie up with least 10 brand outlets over the the youth, for which the company store in India. The 5000 sq. feet Reliance Retail for a shop-in-shop next three years in India and are has planned to launch 20 khadi store was launched in October format across its various stores in looking at Bangalore, Mumbai, plazas in the major cities of the first week. To mark the launch, the country. The first Daiso shop- Delhi, Chennai and Hyderabad to country to retail Khadi apparel Hermès created 27 special edition achieve their target. Indus League, in-shop format is expected to come in trendy setting and ambience, saris made in silk inspired by its the company that brought Daniel up in Gujarat. The project will be an the rollout of these plazas will famous scarf patterns. After the Hechter to India, plans to grow and added advantage in the business of start from 2013. The success launch of the recent store, the make it a Rs. 50 crore brand by the the signage majors engaging in the is expected to come from the total number of stores in India end of three years. in-store displays and signage. increased interest in Khadi becomes three.

30 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 indiacanvas

New Drawback Cotton Grower's move to regain lost market rates for Garment Industry otton growers are hoping data released showed that prices of cotton have lowered to regain the market share China’s economy expanded at a and have become stable and the Cafter the volatile prices rate of 9.1% in the third quarter industry is expecting to cover he Department of led apparel manufacturers to of 2011, below forecasts of 9.2% some of the losses. All this has Revenue, Ministry shift back to manmade fibres. and slowing from growth of 9.5% become possible largely because of Finance, recently T Cotton lost its market share in the preceding quarter, it was the consumers in US still hold introduced the new in the past six to eight months the slowest rate of growth since a strong preference for cotton drawbacks rates that are and also as farmers are now when the cotton prices rose due the second quarter of 2009. being followed from 1st growing more cotton, making the to various reasons including the October 2011. The new According to South Indian Mills’ global production of cotton more weakening of US dollar, poor drawback rates have been Association (SIMA), currently, than the consumption. Cotton reduced by 4-6%, much to the crops in India and China and the Indian textile industry production in India is expected disappointment of garment thus low availability, which led to has been subjected to a loss to hit record production of 36 exporters, though the value deadlines not met by the quotas. of over Rs. 15,000 crore due million bales (1 bale = 170 kg) in cap in the revised drawback Cotton prices came under to high volatility in cotton and 2011-12, providing an optimistic has been increased in additional pressure after official yarn prices. But, now when the look at the future. the range of 6-10% for all categories of apparel. Under the revised rates, the JD Institute's Convocation event brings memorable drawback rate of a cotton moments of joy garment has been reduced to 7.1% against the previous The function which auspiciously rate of 7.5% in 2010-11, while began with Diya Lighting and value cap has been increased Saraswati Vandana performed to Rs. 45 against the Rs. by Parineeta Kaur concluded 42 of the previous year. For with the roars of applauds when garments made from blend the students received their of cotton and MMF, the degrees and diplomas. The drawback rate has presence of names like Puneet been reduced to 8.2% Nanda, Satyapaul and Mridula against 8.6% last year and Sharma, Editor Living, etc. value cap is now Rs. 47 made the award ceremony against the previous price of more enchanting. Rs. 44 in 2010-11. RC Dalal, Executive Director, JD For other categorized joined the guests on the stage to garments of MMF, drawback Ex Jediiian Neena Sahni being awarded citation by Puneet Nanda congratulate the students. rates are reduced to 9.1% Ex Jedian, Neena Sahni who against 9.5% of 2010-11 and D Institute of Fashion students and the faculty of has been working closely value cap is now Rs. 49 per Technology with a pan- the JD Institute of Fashion piece against Rs. 45 of 2010- JIndia presence has rounded up with the most with Sunil Sethi, the current 11. In case of garments made contributed to a sizeable awaited convocation ceremony President of FDCI and up of other fibres, drawback number of trained designers to held recently in New Delhi. The Managing Director of AMC, as rate has been brought to the Indian Designers Fraternity event was full of both bitter Senior Merchandising Manager, 7.1% as against 7.5% of and this year too all the hard sweet memories and a sense of was honoured by Puneet Nanda 2010-11 while the value work and dedication of the joy and achievement for all. with citation awards. cap has been increased to Rs. 36 against Rs. 34. RETAIL Snips Drawback rate for the silk and non-silk categories have ‘7 For All Mankind’ Duke enters new Pan America to expand also been reduced to 7% introduces kidswear segments with EBOs against 10% of 2010-11 while Inspired by the sophistication of Aiming to achieve Rs. 300 crores With a target of achieving Rs. 150 their value cap remained today’s youth, 7 For All Mankind’s turnover in the next 2-3 years, Duke crores turnover by the year end, unchanged and in case of children’s collection features a Fashions now plans to foray into menswear brand Pan America garments made from wool, variety of styles with youthful new segments like sportswear and from Royalex Fashions plans to add washes in autumn colours including kidswear. The brand that has seen T-shirts to its product line by March drawback rate has been rich indigos, military-inspired a positive growth track since its 2012. It also has retail expansion brought to 7.1% as against greens, greys, blacks and browns. inception in 1966 is looking to add plans in place and would soon add 7.5% of 2010-11 and the Taking cue from the women’s line, new lines to establish its leadership EBOs to its retail spread. Their value cap has been increased popular fits like Dojo, Kaylie and position. The brand is also focusing range consists of yarn-dyed check Roxanne are being offered in mini on Tier II, III and IV cities as these fashion shirts, polyester cotton and to Rs. 45 against the versions for little girls. are the upcoming growth areas. 100% cotton and fashion denims. Rs. 45 of 2010-11.

32 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 33

36 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 37 Fashionbusiness

he Indian fashion weeks have been WILLS INDIA FASHION WEEK known for their glamour quotient with Tcelebrities walking the ramp and adorning the front seats. The press too covered the Wish to go event lavishly, mostly as page 3 news with greater focus on the celebrities and the parties than the actual collections and global is the business angle of the event. However, this year the scene was different… Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI says that there not enough… was a conscious effort to pull the The 18th edition of the Wills India Fashion Week showcasing limelight way from the glamour Indian designer interpretations for Spring/Summer 2012 saw and focus on the ‘business of fashion week’. The reporting few of the buyers mostly from the Middle East and Europe event on page 3 was more subtle trying to find products that fit their sensibilities and budgets. and designers concentrated on collections rather than dressing Tapping a feedback from the 5-day fashion event, the Fashion ‘bollywood’. Team at AO actively interacted with both buyers and designers Middle East emerged as a big to see how competitive the designer fraternity is today… business potential and not necessarily in caftans and highly embroidered salwar kameez. Pret lines with affordable fashion were a highlight with buyers overall satisfied with the collections. The shift towards serious business is a good sign and indicates that the industry is moving beyond glamour to grab a bigger share in global fashion… BUYERS SPEAK… Taking a first-hand review from buyers, AO discovered that the Indian fashion fraternity seems to be maturing in terms of designs and quality, going global with Western designs and patterns blended with aesthetics that display a strong Indian presence. “We deal in high- end designer wear, from India, Pakistan and Saudi Arabia, for our boutique store in Moscow. Although this is not our first time in India, we are looking for some new names as we are already dealing with some big players in the market like Tarun Tahiliani. We specially liked the work of Ankur Modi: Priyanka Modi and Reynu Tandon, who have gone very Western and global with their design sensibilities. Eastern fashion will get more share in the coming future with Indian tradition, Lazer cutouts, the biggest trend forecasted for the global market for The famous technique of placement prints, which adorned the colours and embroidery S/S 12, was proudly showcased by Pankaj and Nidhi international runways, was beautifully executed by Hemant and Nandita.

38 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 Fashionbusiness

being in the limelight,” said already established, and now I Svetlana Kuzovova am looking for something fresh representing Asian Spirit and new. My requirement is a from Moscow. line of garments that is a fusion The diversity of buyers also but not completely Western. reflected diversity in demand Without doubt, the colours of with many buyers looking India are the best part about out for a mix of culture, with Indian fashion.” garments that are traditional What is still lacking…? and yet western in appeal. Even when the country is One such buyer was Delphine receiving positive acclaim with Laurenceau, Managing Partner changing sensibilities, there are at 90 Studio of France who was certain areas Indian designers looking for garments for her still need to work upon, which private showroom in France. “I were expressed in some mixed am looking for new techniques reviews received from buyers as I want the collection to be mostly from the Middle Eastern very special for my clientele back countries. “Even though Indian home. The collections so far have designs have worked very been good, and I wish to buy very well for the Kuwait market, as James Veenhoff from Frontier Strategy, the Lulwah Al Hageri, representing Designer Lounge simple pieces with some surface Indian designers have amazing Founder of Amsterdam Fashion Week Boutiques, Kuwait texturing and an expensive style, they still have a problem appeal,” she said. in dealing professionally high embellishment costs. Boutiques who is presently Stressing on the vibrant colour with international buyers, However, although French dealing with Vineet Bahl, stories available from India, regarding negotiation of prices and US designers being more Namrata Joshipura, Kavita Zaineb Alam from Zena and sticking to the deadline. professional, the finishing and Bhartia and Pinky with a positive Couture Ltd., London added, The orders still tend to get stitching quality of Indians is business response. “I have stocked many names in late and the final product good,” expressed Lulwah Al Experiencing ‘pricing’ problems my store in London, which are costs much more due to the Hageri, Designer Lounge as designers are not open to

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 39 Fashionbusiness

a-porter where the business was disappointing, mainly given the economic recession, and buyers were looking for garments at as low as 20 – 40 pounds. In India, consumers indulging in couture for formal occasions and festivals buy embellished garments even if they wear a black suit to office. “Even if it is a small patch of embroidery on a kurta, it can add the aesthetic as well as monetary value to the garment,” adds Raj. Nida Mahmood was among the most The stalls at WIFW have become a place of serious business with each stall showcasing its own unique display sought-after designers negotiations, Ayman A. Abu- Strategy, the Founder of business. The duo of and Suliman of Basma Al Jazaery Amsterdam Fashion Week, Ashima-Leena, who has been recession Nida Mahmood Fashion added, “The price who was talent hunting. “I am showing at the WIFW since long hasn’t points of Ranna Gill and Geisha specifically looking at designers were happy at the response, affected her ledger figures at all. Designs are most suitable, but I with international presence, like as along with the old buyers, “The business for me was great would still want Indian designers Manish Arora to collaborate they keep coming back to the and I have added a number of new to lower down their prices for with. Since Manish is located fashion week for new business. buyers to my list. There were two greater market penetration in Paris, it is very easy to “The overall response to the buyers from Paris, seven from because of the ongoing recession work with him. Although, fashion week might have been Japan besides a lot of Middle East abroad. The collection at my Paris, Milan, New York and comparatively weaker than buyers. Alongside, there store has lot of styles, so I am London are the four pillars of the previous seasons, given is a regular incoming of bulk on the lookout for new designers international fashion, other to the recession, but for us, orders,” said Nida. as most of them are not fashion weeks such as Delhi it’s still been positive. The key Even retailing abroad, but even and Moscow are moving slowly reason for this is because we do designers then, a competitive price for us towards the top circle. We are couture dresses which has prêt who were is a priority.” planning to collaborate with + couture elements, so it’s not showcasing designers who can showcase at just a printed tunic, it’s got to Expressing a different sort of for the first Amsterdam Fashion Week. One have a hint of embellishment or a discontent from the point of time were thing that I really like is the texture added, which would give view of silhouettes on offer, impressed. diversity among the designers. it an extra edge over the other Hiba Al-Ateeqi, Managing “After ten Amongst the designers that collections,” said Leena. The duo Nachiket Barve Director of Darusha from seasons I liked was Nida Mahmood, is catering to buyers mostly from Kuwait said, “I am looking at the Lakme Fashion Week, I whose collection was high on the Middle East as the natives for trendy clothes with Indian showcased at WIFW for the first energy, colour and fun. The share similar sensibilities and a designs fused in them, like time and the response has been Denim and sari combination lot of Indians are settled there. European silhouettes combined caught my fancy as Amsterdam Enquiries also came in from tremendous, I have got few new with a lot of colour. For both is known for its denim and we Japan and Spain. buyers too,” said of my stores in Kuwait, I can work around something like Nachiket Barve. Nachiket For some, more than have currently stocked Tarun that,” he shared with Team AO. already has buyers from Korea, international buyers, it was Tahiliani, Pankaj Nidhi and Japan and UK in his kitty of 30 Indian retailers who generated Hemant & Nandita. Although stores who retail his collections DESIGNER’S INPUTS business. the diversity of fashion is the ON BUSINESS AT THE on their shelves. The key reason best part about India, I still feel FASHION WEEK… “India has for his popularity is that he can that Indian relate only caftans a growing customize any garment from with the Middle East, whereas From the scope for his collection according to the we wear many silhouette as is feedback designers sensibilities and aesthetics in fashion and look for the same of the with smaller of the clients that his buyers too. I am looking for a lot more designers cities like cater to. “The Indian design options from Indian designers it appears Chandigarh, that scenario still has to arrive at an than just the traditional caftans.” Raj Shroff Ludhiana, though Amritsar international platform and though the show many of them do have a retail Pathway to a global Leena Singh coming into the fashion scenario collaboration… started off and adding onto the large presence all across the country, This season, the fashion week on a slow note, the final outcome number of fashion-conscious but what lacks is the influence witnessed the presence of was very satisfying with consumers,” said Raj Shroff. that the fashion houses of Europe James Veenhoff from Frontier many new buyers negotiating Raj has just returned from Prêt- create,” he concludes.

40 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 Official media partners for the event : FashionResource

Fashion File American apparel forays into men's jean

merican Apparel, the styling is the result of extensive Avertically integrated clothing testing and feedback, which manufacturer in Los Angeles, when combined with American has announced the launch of its Apparel’s obsession for quality first Men’s Jeans: Regular Fit and my 30 years of experience 100. This new style is the most in denim, makes for the perfect recent addition to the highly men’s jeans.” Re-establishing successful denim line American California’s rich history of denim Apparel premiered earlier this manufacturing, the men’s jean is year, which is designed, cut, dark resin denim with a classic sewed and washed at American 1950s cut, designed specifically Apparel’s vertically-integrated for men unlike many of American facilities. Georges Atlan, Director Apparel’s “unisex” products. of Denim at American Apparel They have a relaxed fit, with a said, “We’ve come up with a tapered leg intended to hit right truly authentic pair of jeans – above the shoe, making them something the market has lacked classy as well as comfortable. for a long time. The fit and

PIXELLATED ‘White Label' new in-house Gok for Sainsbury's TU PRINTS brand by Republic launched ixellated, or distorted ulti-branded fashion retailer, Republic is ok Wan’s first women’s wear collection, Gok Pdesigns, which were Mlaunching a new in-house brand, White Label. Gfor TU, was launched in the stores recently. once considered to be Due to increased customer demand, the label is The capsule collection that cleverly combines key of inferior quality, are the launching in-store and online this month, featuring basics with strong statement pieces is designed newest fashion statements. a collection of wardrobe staples bought in bulk with shape enhancing pieces to make women feel Designers like Preen, to achieve the best possible value for customers. confident, stylish and positive about their bodies Jeremy Scott, Josie Natori, With prices starting from £ 8, the range includes with an affordable price range of £ 20.00 to £ 45.00. Milly and Carolina Herrera straight and carrot fit denim, chinos, T-shirts in an The capsule collection comprises 13 styles, totalling have showcased innovative assortment of colours, checked shirts, cuffed jog 28 garments created with the colour palette variations of this interesting pants, zipped sweats and a choice of gilet or puffa reflecting the autumn season, with rich red, teal print design in their latest jacket. Guy Daltry, Buying Director at Republic and terracotta mixed with the designer’s statement collections. Used for semi- said, In the current climate we are continuously black. Two signature prints that are present in the fitted or loose garments, reviewing ways to make a saving for the customer entire collection are Cherry Blossom and Oriental these prints add structure and by buying in significant quantities we can pass Floral decorating the garments inside and out. The as well as a visual illusion this saving on while producing quality fashion.” collection is available in over 200 stores nationwide. to the garments. Variations like checkerboard designs, zoomed in images, randomly placed boxes Target partnering for limited editions… and bright combinations of colour can be made to S retailer target is joining her first limited-edition collection green, soft pink and rich purple accentuate the modernity Uhands with several of lingerie and loungewear at priced from $ 9.99 to $ 49.99. and complexity of the designers to create limited affordable prices, Target has These designer collaborations pattern. Using tiny pixels designer editions for their store. also roped in designers Albertus follow the news that Jason Wu is highlight the blur and illusion With internationally renowned Swanepoel and Dana Kellin also launching a limited-edition effect. Imparting the feeling designer Josie Natori introducing to introduce their two limited- collection for the retailer that of a tessellation, these prints can be used individually, edition accessories collections, incorporates sophisticated, with solid colours and even both launching on Oct. 30, 2011. feminine dresses, mix-and-match contrasted with other prints Albertus Swanepoel’s collection separates and playful accessories like flowers, bold stripes or features 14 hats for women including handbags and scarves fruits and vegetables. When including fedoras, cloches and which will hit the stores on Feb. 5, used in tunics and dresses, floppies in solid felt, printed felt 2012, the prices of the collection these prints can also be and faux fur, the pieces are priced range from £ 12.00 to £ 39.99 used to sport the popular at $ 19.99. Designer Dana Kellin’s ($ 19.99 to $ 59.99). Before Wu’s summer outerwear trend collection features an assortment designs hit the store, Gwen Stefani with a cardigan or blazer in of necklaces and earrings made is next in Target’s sights with her a solid colour. Gwen Stefani launches kidswear line, of mixed metals with colourful kidswear line, Harajuku Mini, set Harajuku Mini, set to retail from Nov. 2012. stones in hues of deep blue, teal to retail from Nov. 13, 2012.

42 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 SEPTEMBERNOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 43 TextileUpdate

Second Edition of Hindtex Varanasi Awes Everyone with Diversity & Quality of Exhibits and Buyers Impressed with the product categories and the commitment of the Varanasi Industry, Textile Secretary Rita Menon announces that Hindtex shall be made a permanent event; allocates increased funds Buyers came from Bulgaria, Austria, Germany, Japan, US, France, Canada and Columbia Apparel Online takes Delegation of 25 buying offices to the BSM Scarves/Stoles, digital prints, jacquard fabrics caught maximum attention of buyers

We are extremely happy that we got visitation from good buyers from overseas “and reputed buying/liaison offices based in India. I thank AO for being our Knowledge & Media The trend of small Partner and guiding us at every exhibits which are stage along with getting buying manageable and offices to Hindtex. It’s heartening to see that both buyers and reflect quality and exhibitors are equally happy,” class seem to be avers Rajiv Agrawal, Chairman, Hindtex Committee. catching by organizers EUPEA is now looking at taking and appreciated by the Hindtex overseas but before buyers. The second that it wants the third edition Foreign buyers came in good numbers at Hindtex (L to R) A Rahimi and to be much larger in terms of Farhad Mirfattahi from Austria and Nilesh Mewawala from Germany edition of Hindtex exhibitors and buyers. “We with 36 exhibitors want Hindtex to become a truly global fair and with each displaying a wide successive edition we are going range of textiles to improve its standards,” echoed reflecting various together General Secretary Syed Hasan Ansari and techniques of Zardozi, Treasurer Amitabh. Brocade, jacquard, To give the fair a professional satin fabrics, digital feel, seminars on relevant topics were organized and a prints, home furnishing fabric swatch book was also fabrics and made-ups, distributed. Pinaki Das Gupta, handicrafts, fashion Professor IIFT (Indian Institute of Foreign Trade), New Delhi accessories like gave a very well received scarves, stoles and presentation on new potential Sandeep Mahta, Sr. Buyer, Sharda Group of Companies (sitting) and markets for Indian exporters and Sarwandeep Singh, MD, Neerja Handa Corporate doing check-in much more spellbound tips on marketing one’s products. formalities at the reception area of Hotel Ramada Plaza JHV the visitors. “We will have more number of

44 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 TextileUpdate

To give the fair a professional Hindtex Gets Government Support feel, seminars on relevant topics were organized. Pinaki Das Gupta, Professor IIFT, Delhi gave an insight on the emerging markets

participants in the swatch book next year for the buyers,” shares Mukesh Agrawal, Marketing Head, Hindtex. The importance of having a fair in the city cannot be overstated. In fact, thousands of looms in Varanasi have become silent in the last decade with cheap, bad quality imitations flooding the market, leaving the weavers Rita Menon, Textile Secretary lighting the lamp at the inaugural ceremony of Hindtex 2011 (from L to R) Mukesh Agrawal, Marketing Head, Hindtex; Syed and traders in despair. “An Hasan Ansari, General Secretary; Rajiv Agrawal, Chairman, Hindtex Committee along with DC Handlooms and DC Handicraft; On the extreme right is exhibition showcasing Banaras Naveen Kapoor, President EUPEA watching the ceremony now popular as Varanasi through its textile and tradition is indeed The three days buyers-sellers meet, Hindtex and DC Handicraft to make it even more elaborate a golden endeavour, an effort 2011 organized by Eastern UP Exporters and penetrating. towards presenting responsible Association (EUPEA) took place in fashion and rediscovering pride DC Handlooms, announced a Government scheme Varanasi recently and was inaugurated in our collective heritage,” avers for supporting 10,000 families, by extending loan by Rita Menon, Textile Secretary Manisha Saini, Designer, of Rs. 10,000/- per family, wherein the Government accompanied by Development Montrose India. shall be giving the margin money. While 2000 Commissioner Handlooms R.N. Chaubey families will be extended benefit this year, the The buyers who visited were and Development Commissioner, remaining 8000 will be availed of the benefit in happy to see the efforts to revive Handicraft S.S. Gupta. The event was a following years. DC Handicraft said that there is the textile city. “We came here roaring success with the exhibitors, buyers huge untapped market and if the industry exploits with great hope and thanks to and government officials very satisfied even 5 per cent of it, the volume would be immense. Hindtex team for taking up such with the event. Rita Menon, speaking on He also added that though many countries are a remarkable step to promote the occasion congratulated EUPEA for under the effect of recession, but still there are this rich heritage and especially organizing an excellent fair and expressed a lot of countries which are not much affected by to Rita Menon for taking effective optimism that the event would benefit the it and are business worthy, suggesting that the measures for boosting entire artisans and weavers from the area apart exporters should start exploring these textile trade across the country,” from bringing prosperity to the region. markets as well. Gupta also emphasized the said Rajeev Sadana, Proprietor, need for professional training for the industry. Gracious Living. While thanking To the delight of those present, Menon Bela Rajesh, MD, Handloom Export Promotion EUPEA, the organizers of spelled out the incentives and measures Council was also present on the occasion; she Hindtex, Vishnu Manikandan that the Government has undertaken to announced that HEPC is organizing a fair in Sr. Merchandiser, AGC, Tirupur boost exports of handlooms and handicrafts, Chennai and asked EUPEA members to participate said, “I never expected that I major incentives that include 2 per cent in the fair. will find fashion made-ups like subvention on export interest, providing stoles, scarves and shawls packing credit in foreign currency, 4 per While speaking on the occasion Naveen Kapoor, here. Digital prints too came cent scrip for exports of handlooms and President EUPEA requested Rita Menon to as a surprise to me. I am very handicrafts for Latin American countries make Hindtex a permanent fair and include it in impressed with pashmina under focus product and focus market the fair calendar of the ministry, and also raise shawl produced by East West scheme. The textile secretary also the fund allocation for the event. Textile Secretary Corporation. It would be a hot announced inclusion of 110 additional readily agreed on all fronts and announced that DC buy for our buyers in Europe products under focus product and focus Handloom and DC Handicraft shall jointly sponsor and Middle East.” market scheme and that in future Hindtex the event next year onwards, and October shall be will be sponsored jointly by DC Handlooms frozen as the event month for Hindtex. Majority of the buying office representatives who visited

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 45 TextileUpdate

Sunil Gurnani Debanjali Chatterjee Ruchi Suri Ramesh Agghi Head Production, Abu Senior Designer, LF Senior Merchandiser, Fabric Manager, Jani & Sandeep Khosla Fashion – L i & Fung India Contempo Ltd. Next Sourcing

“I am delighted that I “The most attractive “I saw very good designs “Some of the scarf suppliers visited this fair. Varanasi product for me here is in stoles and scarves. are really very good and I am has amazing stuff. Their digital prints. I never Digital prints, though a definitely going to promote brocades are just matchless. expected this from Varanasi. new concept, is being done them in my company like The city still works on Their fabrics, colour palette, quite successfully here. Gopiram Silk Mills. In digital handloom which now can everything matches to the The products showcased printed fabrics, I liked Fabco be afforded by high-end current European trends. are definitely matching and Dwarka. I am going to consumers. I spent quality The only thing I would the current European give them some costing time with most of the like to tell the exhibitors trends. I have found certain exercise for our export exhibitors and I am looking here is that if they wish to products which our buyers orders. Presently we are at sourcing a lot of fabrics work with buying offices like PotPuri, Dress Barn, sourcing a lot of these fabrics from here in brocades, hand then they need to have Connaught are looking for. If out of Surat. I thank AO to embroidery, etc.” their compliances and it does not work this season, give this opportunity to me certifications in place.” it would definitely work out to come here and know this the next season.” unique and fascinating hub.”

the fair feel that if Varanasi are improving and I am quite Gurgaon. “What appealed to Gurgaon, “I am very thankful manufacturers/exporters wish positive that the business me was their readiness to to EUPEA and AO for giving to work with buying offices will definitely grow.” develop any required product. No me the opportunity to attend then they need to have their Many buying offices expressed doubt, Varanasi has the this fair. It’s an eye opener compliances and certifications that Varanasi has potential to potential to emerge as a base that the city is walking with in place. “They are amazingly move up the value chain, as for high-end fashion and home times while maintain its progressive people and I am their fabrics are being bought by textiles,” she adds. traditional strength, it’s also very sure that my division is garment exporters in Delhi and The experience for many was doing products which Delhi/ going to procure a lot of Mumbai, who are making good moving. “Some of the products NCR or other exporting hubs products from this hub,” shares profits by converting the fabric complement our shopping list are doing. I found some very Debanjali Chatterjee, Senior into garments and selling at of what we regularly import, as good jacquards but wish there Designer, LF Fashion – Li & higher prices. “I am really happy well as what we can introduce were more exhibitors in this Fung India, Gurgaon. Added with the costing here. The similar and explore in our markets. product category.” Amit Aneja, Fabric Buying stole which I spotted in Delhi Hope AO keeps informing us Monita Sehgal, Proprietress, Consultant, Coach India, New were priced at $ 4 to $ 5 ballpark on future exhibitions as well,” Subala’s, New Delhi not Delhi, “I found the exhibition and here it is quoted between $ 3 says Sandeep Mahta, Senior only liked the BSM but also well organized and was and $ 4. A dollar less makes Buyer – International Desk, the people of Varanasi. extremely happy to see people all the difference,” highlights Sharda Group of Companies. “Here people are simple, yet from this city geared to do export Ruchi Suri, Senior Adds Madhu Bhargava, DMM, professional. I came to see business. I feel in Varanasi things Merchandiser, Contempo Ltd., Orange Fashions Designs, brocades and dress material

46 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 TextileUpdate

Narender Bhatia – Sudarshan Sharma AGM Sourcing Director, CD Lifestyles Orient Craft Ltd.

“I found stoles, digital “Our core area of interest prints and polyester is scarves and stoles jacquards as per today’s and we could see a marker requirement. I large variety in terms of feel product quality is design and fibre blends. good but prices need to The quality of polyester be worked out as market scarves was very good, needs very sharp prices. possibly, the weavers are Some of the exhibitors experienced in weaving are surely producing as silk and they are using the per international trends, same skill set for polyester. but those who are not We liked the quality of should attend more global digital printing exhibitions to get market as well.” trends.”

More Buyer’s Feedback on Products…

“I found three good vendors, “I liked the silk blends, viscose/ namely Prabha Creations, Silk cotton especially scarves, Fashion Creator’s and Diamond curtains, poly-dupion fabrics, Silk. Prabha Creations really brocade fabrics with ethnic have a nice collection of and traditional look. However, scarves and I was able to pick I feel that the pricing was a up some 25 designs to suit bit high; suppliers must work various customers. Prices too on their prices in order to be seem workable here. I have more competitive. For example, requested swatches of Viscose, one of the silk blended fabrics checks black dots and animal was quoted as Rs.58/- which prints. I have planned a trip to shouldn’t be more than Rs.32- Europe this November. I will 35/- if the same is from Surat, carry samples to show it to my etc. Printed fabrics were potential customers. extremely less or almost nil. – Rajeev Sadana – Sonia Chopra, Proprietor, Sr. Merchandiser, Axstores Gracious Living, New Delhi Far East Limited, New Delhi

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 47 TextileUpdate

for my garments as Banaras “I liked the home textiles is known for it. Some products range and feel that it has which I see here, I also see in tremendous possibilities Delhi, so Varanasi should stick in international markets. to its niche. I am catering to the Most of the exhibitors are Middle East market, which is capable of doing even smaller rich and prefers brocade and MOQs and that would make blingy stuff.” them really attractive when compared to China. Digital Varanasi based products/fabrics Prints is also one of the items have a lot of potential in the that I feel has good potential. domestic and international As far as the pricing is market. Fabric exports to

Asit Parikh, Senior Executive Director, Texperts India (R) with Vakil Ahmad of Silk Fashion Creator concerned, I feel that they are different countries should be in the workable range.” encouraged with the government – Asit Parikh backing with some subsidies Senior Executive Director, for exporters/weavers. “The Texperts India, Ahmedabad 100% silk and silk blended fabrics qualities were beautiful but price needs to be worked I liked the jacquard fabrics/ yarn dyed scarves and digital upon. More buyers/sellers printing products; these meets should be organized at fabrics are in demand and this least twice a year. More buying is going to increase in future. agencies should be reached out The product quality seems to to advising them of Varanasi’s be good, and to be honest, I potential especially in terms of did’t work much on the prices. fabrics/scarves,” said Sarwan Managing Director, Neerja – Amit Aneja Amita and Amit Aneja, Fabric Buying Consultants, were very happy with Varanasi exhibits Handa Corporate, Noida. Fabric Buying Consultant, Coach India, New Delhi Majority of the buyers felt that the exhibitor range “Varanasi has amazing should be increased and that products and now we are the presentation of samples trying to explore ways needs to be improved and wherein we can work with also the details of the product the exporters there and hope should be mentioned properly. something materializes, if not Understanding of international now then may be sometime in business needs to be addressed the near future.” sooner than later. Above all, such initiatives by organizations – Wahid Fatima like AO needs to be continued Monsoon Accessorize Trust and similar events should also Co-ordinator, be held in Mumbai and Delhi. Wahid Fatima of Monsoon Accessorize looking at fabrics Urban Craft, Gurgaon That will make a big difference.

Alok to Launch New Products Arvind Limited Registers 58% growth Self-cleaning Cotton Fabric by UC in its Net Profits Davis Scientists Durable, easy-care fabrications will be the focus for Alok Industries. According Arvind Limited has registered 58% growth Scientists at UC Davis have developed to Arun Agarwaal, CEO, the company is in consolidated net profit for the quarter a cotton fabric that kills bacteria and soon planning to launch the Dura family of TEXTILE NEWS ended 30th September 2011. It has earned breaks down toxic chemicals such as products, including the Dura Sheet, Dura consolidated net profit of Rs. 62 cr. as against pesticide residues when exposed to light. Towel and Dura Blanket. Rs. 39 cr in the quarter of previous year on Ning Liu, who conducted the work as a In addition, Alok is following up on the account of improvement in EBITDA margin. doctoral student in Professor Gang Sun’s introduction of Cloud Cotton towels during Jayesh Shah, Director & Chief Financial group in the UC Davis Division of Textiles the Spring 2011 market with Cloud Zero, Officer comments, “Textile business has and Clothing says, “The new fabric has which enhances the absorbency and improved the margins despite sharp increase potential applications in biological and softness features of its predecessor. In the in raw material cost. We believe that Arvind chemical protective clothing for health bedding area, Alok will present three new is well poised to achieve 20% revenue growth care, food processing and farm workers, fitted sheet technologies and as well as a during the current financial year. as well as military personnel.” proprietary Button It Down sheet.

48 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 49 HOME FASHION FUTURE

Heimtextil Russia 2011 Russian Retail Market for Home Products Growing Gloss, Bold & Vibrant Colours for 2012-13 The Russian economy is showing a constant growth in the last few years. Disposable incomes have increased and had a positive impact on the market performance. The change in lifestyle of Russian consumers has increased the demand for houseware and home furnishing products. Economic growth has increased the number of retail chains and Russian consumers are buying products in Russia instead of going abroad. International Trade Fair for Home Textiles, Floor Coverings and Interior Furnishings, Heimtextil Russia 2011 took place on September 21-23 at the IEC “Crocus Expo”. A part of Heimtextil brand, the fair has been held in Moscow for the 13th time and once again has proven its leadership in the sphere of interior textile decoration.

eimtextil Russia status as a unique international Following this tradition, became strong ground business event for the industry. Heimtextil Russia presented Trend Forecast for acquired success The Spanish home textiles in 2011 the exclusive lifestyle Home Décor 2012-13 Hand significant factors industry to consolidate its trend show – A significant for generated development. foothold in Eastern European event and interesting business Following the end of the trade markets participated at communication platform. Direct Colour Riot Bold, vivid and vibrant palette fair exhibitors and visitors Heimtextil Russia. A total of access to the professional and textures vary from high- confirmed the growth in qualities eleven companies exhibited their target audience was ensured by gloss materials, coloured and quantities of the show and latest collections in a group partnership with world known laminations, superimposed, fluid enjoyed new inspiring ideas and show supported and organized brands such as Bene, Knauff, and flexible fabrics to ‘optical business opportunities. by Home Textiles from Spain, in Amrip Décor, leading design fibres’, iridescent effects and bureaus and architect studios, With 256 leading companies – recycled materials. For the and the powerful media support producers from 24 countries, patterns, broad stripes, all- from Salon Press – one of the Heimtextil Russia 2011 covered over geometric patterns and Heimtextil Russia 2011 most recognized publishing the entire range of product graphic motifs are on. Digital age covered the entire range house in Russia, covering all groups for home textiles takes its toll here with digital of product groups for the topics relating to interior and interior decoration – designs, photographic prints and home textiles and interior decoration and design, from new ideas and design hologram effects. decoration with new introduced new designs and solutions, recent trends in ideas and design textile decoration, and interior tendencies, modern furnishing to wall coverings. solutions textile fabrics and decoration 14,238 professional visitors materials in the context of filled the halls, attracted by Heimtextil trends. the splendid interior decisions conjunction with ICEX (Spanish The creative show of wall that were presented by talented Institute for Foreign Trade). coverings and wallpapers, designs and high top trends From India there were seven wallpaper bar mini trend show in the international setting. exhibitors. Majority of them presented decorative interior An assured presence of eight exhibited bedroom and bathroom installations to architects and National Pavilions from China, textiles, window finishing along designers, offering innovative Egypt, Germany, Italy, Portugal, with floorings. Mumbai-based and creative solutions within the Syria, Spain, and Turkey Indo Count showcased its latest combination of style, fashion and confirms Heimtextil Russia development in bed linen. functionality.

50 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 HOME FASHION FUTURE

The Beauty of the gloss, metallic shimmers, structured look, keeping alive deep hue in the same Night sequins and elaborate surface the restrained, destroyed colour palette. Here, light With black being the key ornamentation are to be found and used looks. Creative and shadow in different colour, dark colours prove to in almost all segments. techniques and patterns like materials and surfaces be dominant with champagne composite or offset checks, create depth and intensity. and gold being the accents Craft Industry patch­work, broken patterns, Materials with metallic and colours. Fabrics ranging from Ethical balance between the stripes and checks with reflecting qualities, semi rubberised, liquid and glossy old handicraft techniques and partial pile effects, hand sewn plain patterns, transparency look to furs and long-haired, the modern age industrial looks, intarsia and elaborately along with fabrics creating smooth hides, accentuate the processes, the fabrics adorn processed patches create a subtle animation present key colour. Transparency, deep irregular textures and fine look. versatility. Split Clarity Neat, Clean and Sorted. The concentration lies on simple, functional and essential elements – having what is essential and cutting the trash out, resulting in clean lines, colours and aesthetics. Nature-inspired shades, and mostly in the lightest tint majorly comprises this minimalistic and restrained look with an accent of a

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 51 exportstatistics

SNIPS EU Import Analysis – Jan.-June 2011 India Increases Value of Garment Exports by Cambodian Apparel Exports 19.55%, but sees Decline in Volumes by (-) 3.09% Boosted by Low Labour Costs Cambodian apparel exports he current market placed in early this year, they second quarter, after still surging soared over the first part of Tconditions in the European are not a fair reflection of the 10% in the first quarter. the year, in volume and value Union are a matter of concern retail position. Within the EU, In the meanwhile, exports from terms. The rise in clothing prices for Indian exporters. That orders the German clothing market India grew 19.55% though volumes remained relatively moderate, have been slow in coming is no remained extremely strong declined (-) 3.09% in the review after wages stayed at very longer news… but what is even low levels in the impoverished in the first half, while imports period. The average UVR for more apprehensive is that the country. Cambodia therefore from other European nations Indian exports to the EU was Euro situation is now affecting those gained additional shares of were sliding in volume terms. 21.46 (per kg of fabric equivalent) countries in the EU which were US and EU import markets, German clothing imports as against the EU average of Euro resisting the slowdown. Reports as reflected by our series of rose 14% in volume over the 16.21 (per kg of fabric equivalent). from Germany, by far the largest statistical tables, displaying first half last year. Shipments Among the competitors, average unit prices per product market in Europe, show that declined at UK’s borders Bangladesh did exceedingly well categories. clothing retail sales has begun (-2.30% over the first half) with 43.63% growth in value and dropping in August while poor and also in Italy (-3%), Spain 15.30% increase in volumes. The results were also released for Sri Lanka Apparel (-7.8%), Netherlands (-12%) and average UVR also increased the UK and France. Exports are Belgium (-5%). Imports by the from Euro 9.10 (per kg of fabric Slowing Down In Germany, total retail sales French market began slowing equivalent) to Euro 11.33 (per kg declined in August, offering the Sri Lanka’s apparel exports down, only rising 5.3% over the of fabric equivalent). poorest monthly performance surged over the first part of the year, according to official data. in four years. Sales were down TOTAL AVERAGE UVR OF APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-JUNE 2011 Shipments however slowed 2.9% from the previous month, World China India B'desh Sri Lanka Pakistan Vietnam down in June and July, latest after taking account of price 2010 14.43 12.72 17.39 9.10 16.59 8.19 15.03 and seasonal changes. Clothing, statistics reveal. US and EU 2011 16.21 14.21 21.46 11.33 17.67 10.00 16.64 import data which were compiled textile and shoe sales fell 4.5% by EmergingTextiles.com reflect in value terms from the same EU GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-JUNE 2011 a less rosy picture. month in 2010, a decline not Jan-June- 2010 Jan.-June-2011 % increase / decrease seen in the past years. The IMF Country/ Category (International Monetary Fund) Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Thailand Floods WORLD Threaten Garment has recently predicted that economic growth will strongly Knitted 1011.75 13062.60 1050.57 15217.75 3.84 16.50 Production Woven 891.56 14398.86 925.93 16813.26 3.85 16.77 decelerate in coming months in As per the Secretary General, Germany. In the UK, retail sales Total 1903.31 27461.46 1976.49 32031.01 3.85 16.64 CHINA Yuttana Silpsarnvitch of the dramatically fell in September, Thai Garment Manufacturers sliding to their lowest level Knitted 407.09 4837.60 411.18 5383.69 1.00 11.29 Association the flooding in in 16 months according to a Woven 478.43 6425.76 478.62 7256.90 0.04 12.93 and around Thailand’s capital survey by the Confederation Total 885.53 11263.35 889.81 12640.59 0.48 12.23 Bangkok has hit at least four of British Industry (CBI). In INDIA large clothing factories, while the country waits to see if protective August, clothing sales had still Knitted 69.58 971.22 67.96 1137.11 -2.34 17.08 walls surrounding the city hold. increased 5.6% in value terms, Woven 62.92 1333.40 60.45 1618.00 -3.92 21.34 from the same month in 2010. Total 132.50 2304.62 128.40 2755.11 -3.09 19.55 As the country tries to contain With prices however surging at BANGLADESH rising water levels, the garment retail, volume sales may have manufacturing industry has Knitted 200.06 1712.54 225.61 2416.45 12.77 41.10 not been spared, says Yuttana retreated to lower levels than a Woven 82.6504 859.54 100.35 1277.87 21.41 48.67 although he added other sectors year earlier. August riots may Total 282.71 2572.09 325.96 3694.32 15.30 43.63 have suffered more damage. have negatively affected sales, SRI LANKA in addition. In France, clothing “We have found just a few Knitted 18.87 308.84 18.36 319.98 -2.68 3.61 garment factories that have been retail sales declined in August Woven 16.33 274.88 16.95 304.08 3.84 10.62 flooded and cannot continue and are expected to further Total 35.19 583.72 35.31 624.06 0.34 6.91 with production,” he explains. fall in September, partly due PAKISTAN “Two factories with around 700 to a glorious weather at the Knitted 25.94 179.59 30.29 256.15 16.78 42.63 workers mainly exporting to the end of the month. Woven 30.12 279.41 33.12 378.27 9.94 35.38 US have had to stop production While value of imports into Total 56.06 459.00 63.41 634.42 13.11 38.22 and expect to recover in a the EU increased 16.64% in month.” He adds: “Another two VIETNAM Jan.-June. 2011, the increase factories with 300 workers, that Knitted 12.83 152.85 14.14 199.70 10.16 30.65 mainly export to Japan also had in quantities was smaller Woven 23.73 396.48 29.20 521.65 23.08 31.57 to stop production.” with 3.85% growth. Since the Total 36.56 549.33 43.34 721.35 18.54 31.31 shipments till June reflect orders Qty. & Value in mn Kg & Euro

52 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 exportstatistics

India Exports to Japan: Apparel Import of EU – JAN.-JUNE 2011 Jan.-Aug. 2011 Wo v e n G a r m e n t s Growth segment for Ladies dresses a growth segment for most countries Indian Exports

Among the emerging  Though ladies dresses are not among the top five product categories imported by the EU, it markets, Japan is one of is an important category for Asian manufacturers. In the period under review it had imported the most sought-after by 88.37 million kg of dresses worth Euro 2,142.76 million which is 18.69% increase in volumes Indian exporters and going and a 19.12% gain in value over the same period last year. forward the focus to increase penetration is on the priority  For India, dresses have always been a winner and in the six month period the country exported agenda more so after the FTA 15.53 million kg worth Euro 452.10 million of dresses to the EU during the year. The segment with Japan earlier this year. has seen increase in both volumes and value of 10.14% and 21.82%, respectively.   For China also, ladies dresses were an important growth segment with quantities exported In the first eight months of 2011, apparel imports of being 38.87 million kg exported to the EU worth Euro 833.85 million, an increase of 11.95% Japan were up both in terms of in value and 15.90% rise in volumes. value and volumes of 13.76% and 8.28%, respectively. The upward movement was Trousers lead import segment for EU registered in both the knitted and woven segment with increase in value of 11.43%  The biggest import category to the EU in the first six months of 2011 was trousers with total and 16.04%, respectively. 482.73 million kg of volumes imported worth Euro 6,984.15 million. The segment saw growth  During the period under review in both values and volumes, which were up 16.47% and 3.33%, respectively. India registered an impressive  For China also the biggest category in terms of quantities was trousers with export of 213.40 increase in value of exports by 22.87% over the same period million kg to the EU worth Euro 2,502.33 million, an increase of 9.03% in value and decrease last year. Volume increase of (-) 4.32% in volumes. was equally impressive with 23.71% rise in the period  In Sri Lanka again, the biggest category is trousers with volumes of 10.65 million kg, worth under review. Euro 138.16 million; the segment saw growth of 5.10% in values, though volumes declined  India saw increase in exports (-) 1.25%. in both the knitted and woven  Trousers are the fourth major category for India with volumes of 16.69 million kg of exports segment with woven emerging as a stronger category. The worth Euro 290.41 million in the defined period. The segment has seen growth in both volumes growth in value for woven and value of 7.87% and 26.35%, respectively. garments was 25.16%, while the segment registered 23.81% upswing in volumes. Knitted garments on the other hand ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU: JAN-JUNE 2011 increased by 7.35% in value and 23.29% in quantities. Exports to EU Total Imports by EU  During the same period Chinese APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Sri Lanka apparel exports to Japan saw Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value decline of (-) 10.62% in value Babies Wear 0.35 17.94 -5.22 11.44 9.07 36.08 26.92 55.21 7.89 0.55 of exports, while quantities were up 6.01%. The country Foundation Garments 12.48 14.16 14.86 17.61 37.09 58.92 25.39 30.47 -6.50 9.03 once a leader with almost 90% Jackets & Blazers 6.65 18.53 -0.03 16.39 1.80 12.99 45.36 73.65 8.20 7.84 share in the market is seeing Ladies Blouses -2.52 8.77 -13.46 -4.52 0.63 16.67 13.17 42.94 -4.28 6.26 less growth over the past two Ladies Dresses 18.69 19.12 15.90 11.95 10.14 21.82 23.65 40.37 26.79 28.94 years. Ladies Skirts -0.67 7.90 -8.29 0.09 8.65 26.83 14.24 38.12 2.44 10.43  Among the competitors, Bangladesh witnessed Legwear -0.10 13.31 -0.47 13.78 26.10 39.46 26.91 68.39 -8.51 -10.17 substantial increase in exports Mens Shirts 4.11 19.07 -5.79 10.19 -4.14 14.35 17.73 48.51 -14.58 -1.83 to Japan with 44.46% growth Nightwear -3.55 12.28 -5.19 9.43 -7.68 17.49 14.73 53.01 28.06 20.04 in value and 36.26% increase Suits / Ensembles 1.29 7.11 -0.26 4.30 -0.04 14.58 -5.23 22.96 -18.79 -17.02 in quantities. The country made impact in both knitted Sweaters 10.06 17.16 6.12 9.79 -9.23 11.45 21.88 42.17 -9.60 -14.49 segment and woven garments, Trousers 3.33 16.47 -4.32 9.03 7.87 26.35 17.85 42.77 -1.25 5.10 registering noteworthy gains in T-Shirts -0.49 13.46 -11.41 0.78 -4.67 14.09 8.29 37.85 4.59 8.12 value of 94% and 21.53% in Undergarments 4.12 24.39 -0.21 20.46 17.63 48.69 32.63 70.78 18.77 25.36 volumes, respectively.

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 53 resourcecentre

Intertek initiates ‘iSupplier Program’ to promote exporters to international buyers Intertek, a leading provider of quality and safety services to a wide range of industries around the world, recently launched their iSupplier Intelligence (ISI) program in India in the presence of industry delegates and Intertek senior officials. “After the successful launch of iSupplier Intelligence in China and Taiwan, we are happy to bring the platform to India. iSupplier Intelligence builds a living profile of each supplier or manufacturer while Intertek validates and manages credible supplier's profiles in a secure environment,” saidDavid Horlock, Vice-President, Supplier Management Services, Intertek at the event.

ntertek with its expertise, save upon the costs and times ISI” indication on their profile turn into a business contract, it resources, global reach consumed in the process, just which would activate the same. is out of the service scope,” says and a network of more by paying a membership fees of Currently, the web-portal has Horlock. Many of the world famous than 1,000 laboratories, $ 999. “The more you know the a total of 44,000 profiles out of brands and retailers are always officesI and 30,000 people in lower the risk,” says Horlock. which 4,000 have achieved the looking for new suppliers so being over 100 countries around the “Verified by ISI” mark. Apparel listed on a credible and trusted world has created the iSupplier Trust through and footwear suppliers form platform with a fully completed Intelligence program, as a verification about 24% of the total suppliers profile verified by Intertek has platform that provides global The ISI would not be just registered with ISI. “iSupplier the opportunity to attract new buyers of consumer goods, another database portal of Intelligence, enables buyers to buyers. “In time, we would also be industrial and commodities suppliers and manufacturers as improve business performance able to provide the supplier with access to registered suppliers’ are already available on-line. and preserve their brand important information on what detailed profiles including The suppliers would have to reputations by increasing buyers are looking for and how product capabilities, quality pay a membership amount of the success potential of supplier improving their profile will attract compliance and reputational $ 299 just for setting up their relationship,” reasons more traffic,” adds Horlock. profile. “We have always been risk possibilities associated Rajesh Saigal, Managing The supplier may also use the like policemen for the apparel with social, environmental and Director, Intertek India. iSupplier profile as a linkage in industry, but with the iSupplier security issues regardless of Intertek takes responsibility for emails and communications to Intelligence initiative we aim at which organization has conducted the scope of verification on the its potential customers to utilizing our extensive knowledge the relevant verification. purpose for buyers to conduct build credibility, confidence for the benefit of the apparel ISI is a cost-effective solution supplier screening. “The position and trust. For greater creditability industry around the world,” for buyers who require trusted of iSupplier Intelligence to buyer registration is subject to averred Dilip Gianchandani, supplier partners to identify the supplier is a marketing role rather assessment and approval Regional Director – India and same when making purchasing than a sales role. That means it so that only legitimate buyers Bangladesh (Consumer Goods), decisions. This new platform is a platform for them to expose are registered. Intertek India. minimizes risks and knowledge their credentials to global buyers The program is promoted through Suppliers are expected to pay gaps for global buyers, which for business opportunity, which is Intertek’s customer network with additional amount of $ 1700 is vital for success in today’s for marketing purpose. Whether 5000+ global buyers and 200,000 for achieving a “Verified by global business environment. “We the business opportunity would suppliers, which is growing make available active supplier everyday by 2+ millions facility profiles so trading communities visits per year. For the suppliers can discover each other and do who have subscribed to the business with trust, transparency, portal, they can proactively send confidence, greater speed, ease promotional message to the buyer and reduced cost whilst also members through the platform. managing reputational risk and “The buyer member will use our demonstrating due diligence. platform for sourcing supplier, Transparency and traceability searching and sending business are the key ingredients of inquiry message to the selected success,” said Horlock. suppliers. And we are organising Using iSupplier Intelligence, regular business matching buyers can filter search options activities from online screening to select quality suppliers from all through our platform to face-to- over the world with the required face business matching events. criterion. As the parameters to This would enhance a very close decide sourcing destinations David Horlock, Vice-President, Supplier Management Services, Intertek (centre) interaction between buyers and with his Indian colleagues including Dilip Gianchandani and exporters who is readily available through a suppliers for a better marketing to received certifications for compliances under various International certifications transparent platform, the buyers each other,” concludes Horlock.

54 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011

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56 ApparelOnline NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 RESOURCECENTRE

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NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 57

Bijoux Terner Increases its Sourcing from India India is becoming a key focus

S based Bijoux Terner, a fashion follow the latest and upcoming seasonal accessory company with over 700 trends, using powerful fashion forecasting Ulocations in 50 countries around tools. This vital information enables them the world is looking at India for major to stay ahead when it comes to what’s hot sourcing in the next few years. Founded in and what’s not. 1974, the company’s headquarters are in With its irresistible price and incredible Miami and distribution centre is in Florida. assortment of watches, earrings, The company has Sourcing and Quality necklaces, bracelets, pashminas, scarves, Assurance offices based in Hong Kong with belts handbags, and so much more, Bijoux first class representation in Shenzhen, China, Terner offers a value unmatched in the as well as additional account support in world of fashion. In the mid-1990s, the India, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Manila, retailer pioneered the “all items, one price” Philippines, and Zaragoza, Spain. concept and have not looked back since. According to President and CEO, Gabriel Gabriel Bottazzi, President and Bijoux Terner has opened many airport Bottazzi India is becoming a key focus for CEO, Bijoux shops worldwide in last two years Bijoux as India offers value-added designer Terner is very including its hometown airport of Miami, products, which matches with their clientele upbeat of Madrid, Singapore Changi, Atlanta, preference. The biggest product category the potential to increase Minneapolis, Tampa, Santiago, Trinidad from India for the retailer is hand woven sourcing from and Cozumel, to name but a few. The latest pashmina shawls and fashion accessories India, particularly stores opened recently in Oklahoma and like scarves and stoles. in fashion Tirana, Albania, bringing its export tally to accessories like The key to success is the trend-led hand woven more than 55 countries. Casinos and hotels collections. Bottazzi believes that they do pashmina shawls, remain a major target. “We continue to not chase a product, they chase trends. The scarves and stoles outperform and we have lots of (in-store) company has a talented design team who conversions,” says Bottazzi.

NOVEMBER 1-15, 2011 ApparelOnline 59