© Lonely Planet Publications 421 Index

A Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210 Barikot 213 Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Taxila 88-90, 89 Barpu Glacier 353 Abbottabad 245-9, 246 architecture 53-4 Barsat 284 accommodation 364-6 area codes, see inside front cover Barsin 263 activities 366, see also individual army 34-6 Basant 110 activities arts 52-6, see also individual arts Basha Dam 265 acute mountain sickness (AMS) Artush 330 Basho 286 341, 400 Ashoka, Emperor 237, 249-50 Basho Valley 291-2 Afghan border 154 Ashoka Rocks 249-50 Batagram 256-7 INDEX Afghan refugees 46 Askur Das 306 bathrooms 377-8 Afiyatabad (New Sost) 314-15, 314 Astor Valley 268-70, 269 Batrik 232, 344 AIDS 398 Astor village 268 Battakundi 255 air pollution 70 Athmaqam 185 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 air travel 382-3 ATMs 373 bazaars 376, 6 airlines 382-3 Avdegar 355-6, 355 Bazira 213 airports 382-3 Avgarch 313-14 begging 50 tickets 383 Awami League 32 Begum Shah Mosque 105 to/from Pakistan 383-5 Ayub National Park 80 Besham 258-9, 258 to/from the KKH 394 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181-6, 182 Beyal 349 within Pakistan 388-9 earthquake 183 Bhitai, Shah Abdul Latif 52, 176 Akbar 27 Bhong Mosque 126-7 Akbari Mosque 179 B Bhurban 92-3 Alai Valley 259-61, 260 Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 Bhutto, Benazir 35, 39, 51 alcohol 60 Baba Wali Kandahari 90 Bhutto family 38-9 Alexander the Great 26 Babur 27 Bhutto, Zulfiqar Ali 38, 39 Ali Masjid 200 Babusar Pass 255-6, 267 bicycle travel, see cycling Aliabad 298-9 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 bird-watching 66 All-India Muslim League 29-30 Bagh 186 Birir Valley 233 Allergological Asthma Resort Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Birmogh Lasht 227-8 138 Bahawalpur 121-5, 122 Biyabari 347 Altit Fort 305 Bahrain 215-16 boating 167, 366, 4 altitude sickness 400 baksheesh 373 Boibar Valley 313 Aminabad 313 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Bolan Pass 153 Anarkali 106 Balakot 253 books Andra Fort 309 Balanguru 231-2 cooking 58 animals 65-7, see also individual Baloch people 37, 44-5 health 397 animals Balochistan 139-56, 141 history 32, 34, 38, 40 endangered species 66-7 Balti 405-6 literature 53 Anish 232 Baltistan 284-94, 361-3, 285 politics 31, 32, 34, 38, 40 Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Baltit, see Karimabad travel 17-18 (Quetta Museum) 145 Baltit Fort 300, 301 wildlife 66 archaeological sites Baltoro Glacier trek 362 border ceremony 120 Banbhore 174-5 Banbhore 174-5 border crossings 385-8 Ha Noi 330 Bangladesh 31-2 Borit Lake 309, 312 Harappa 134-5 Banjosa 186 Brahui people 45 Lower Swat 213 Bannu 203 British East India Company 28 Makli Hill 175 Bar Palas 262 British Raj buildings 166 Mardan Plain 205-6 Bar Valley 295-6 British rule 28-9 Mehrgarh 153-4 bargaining 374 Brun 232 Moenjodaro 176-9, 178 Bari Imam Shrine 79 Bualtar Glacier 353 INDEX Changa Manga Wildlife Reserve 121 Wildlife Reserve Changa Manga Chaman 154 Chalt 295-6, 293 Chakhchun Chakdara 217-18 Chaghbin 228 NationalPark Central Karakoram carpets 55-6 car travel camping 365 C business hours366-7, bus travel 406-7 Burushaski Burawai 255 Buni 233 Bundiwalum 346 Bunar Das267 Bumboret Valley 232-3 Dobey321 Bulunkul Buddhist sites Bubulimating 305 422 000 000 68, 286 390-1 within Pakistan 386 to/from Pakistan rental 390 on theKKH394 hire 390-1 driver front cover 389-90 within Pakistan 387 to/from Pakistan on theKKH393-4 Zarai 200 Udegram 213 Caves330 Three-Immortals Taxila 88-9 206 Takht-i-Bahi Shigar 292 Shatial 263 206 Garhi Shahbaz 210-11 Saidu Sharif Sacred RocksatHunza306 Peshawar 191 176 Khas Mirpur Smats206-7 Kashmir 206 Jamal Garhi Gilgit region 280 Ghaligai Buddha213 Chilas 267 Chakdara 217-18

Map pages Map Photograph pages Index (B-E) 297 see also

inside Chapursan Valley 315-16, Chaprot Valley 295 Channan Pir 126 126 Channan Mela cycling 366,385,389 customs regulations 367-9 culture 41-57 56-7 cricket credit cards374 costs 17 corruption 50-2 consulates 370 computer repairs 117 clothing 381 climate 15-16,367, cinema 53 108-9 Chughtai Museum 108 Chughtai, Abdur Rahman Chowa Daravalley262 Cholistan 125-6 Choar 260 Chitral Town222-7, Chitral GolNationalPark 68-9,228 Chitral Festival 370 220-34, Chitral district 271 Chirah 317 Highway China–Pakistan Rd317 China Friendship 343 Chimirsan Ghari children, travelwith367 child labour50 Chilas 265-7, 186 Chikar 174 Chaukundi Chattar Plain265 283 Chatorkhand Chashi 283 Charsadda 207 Darel 263-5 Dar 272 dangers 16-17,369 Dandai 258 dance 55 77-9 Daman-e-Koh Dainyor 280-2 Dadar 256 D safety 393 on theKKH392-3 toIslamabad242-4 Kashgar ValleyBabusar Pass 255 &Kaghan 337 trekking 341-6 trekking people 190 266 368 223 221 6 Dir district 217-20, Dir district Dih 317 digital photography375 400 diarrhoea 126 Derawar Fort (DeraNawab) Dera NawabSahib 203-4 (DIKhan) Dera IsmailKhan 133-4 (DGKhan) Dera GhaziKhan Deosai PlainsNationalPark 69 Deosai Plains291 dengue fever 397 dehydration 401 deforestation 69-70 Defence Mosque HousingAuthority 397 deep veinthrombosis(DVT) Davdar 318 106 Bakhsh Data Ganj Dasu 262 202-3 Darra AdamKhel Darkot 283 Dut 313 Durand Line32,37,189 305 Duikar Dubair Valley 261 drugs 51,196,369 Drosh 222 driving, 60 drinks dress 43 Donson Pass 344-5, 342 Doni Ghari Doni An342-3 disabilities, travellerswith378 Diran Peak 272 Dir town218-19, email, 365 electricity repairs 117 electrical Mosque131 Eidgah 206 ofAshoka Edicts Edhi Foundation161 Edhi, Abdul Sattar 161 Edara 320 economy 49-52 64,183 earthquakes E etiquette 43 erosion 70 environmental issues65, 69-70 70 energy shortage emergencies, embassies 370 126 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 see see internetaccess cartravel see insidefrontcover 219 208 344 INDEX 423

271 311 , 245 309 308 Index (E-H) Index 121 150-1 diseases 397-400 insurance 395-6 trekking 341 vaccinations 396 websites 397 trekking 355-61 Gurdwara Janamasthan Nankana Gurdwara of Arjan Dev 105 Shani Glacier 351 Shani Glacier Glacier 36, 293 Siachen Glacier 270 Tarashing H Ha Noi 330 haggling 374 Halal 61 Haleji Lake 175 Halmat 185 handicrafts55 Hanna Lake 150 271, Haramosh Valley Harappa 134-6 Haripur 245 Hasan Abdal 90 Havelian 245 Hazara 244-57, Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park health 395-402 hepatitis 398 heroin 51 Gokhshal An 342 Gol 292 66 golden marmot Golpigol 346 Gomenah 345 365 government resthouses Game, the 30 Great Thar DesertGreat 176 Grom 231-2 Guchesham 357 guesthouses 366 Gujars 240 Gulagmuli 284 Gulmit 308-10, Gulmit Glacier 309 guns 51, 196 Gupis 283 gurdwaras Guru 233 Guru Nanak 90, 121 Gwadar 156 global warming 65 global warming Gojal 307-17, 7 264 273 298 Bualtar Glacier 353 Gazin Glacier 346 Gulmit Glacier 309 Mulungutti Glacier 313 Glacier 351 Pakora Glacier 311 Passu Raikot Glacier 348 Baltoro Glacier 362 Barpu Glacier 353 Batura Glacier 356-7, 205-6, 207 Muzaffarabad Fort 184 FortNaghar 220 Qasim Bagh Fort 129-30 Ranikot Fort 176 Red Fort 184 Rohtas Fort 137-8 Sehwan Sharif 176 Shah Makkai Fort (Hyderabad) 175 Shahgai Fort 200 Shahi Fort 213 Sheikhupura 120 Fort 318-19 Tashkurgan giardiasis 400 263-84, Gilgit region Gilgit town 272-80, Gilgit Uprising 275 Gittidas 256 glacial warfare 36 glaciers G Gaddani beach 174 Gakuch 283 Galis, the 92-3 Gandhara 26, 27, 88, 188, 191, Ganish 306 Garam Chashma 228 Gargoh 272 Gashuchi 346 Gazin Glacier 346 gay travellers 371-2 Genghis Khan 237 geography 63-5 geology 64 Ghaligai Buddha 213 Ghashumaling 295 Ghazni, Mahmud of 237 Ghez 321 Ghizar 283-4 Ghora Dhaka 92-3 Ghowari 292 Ghulkin Village 309 Ghulmet 297, fundamentalism 47-8 348 301 see inside front cover see inside festvials see 110 103 Altit Fort 305 Andra Fort 309 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Baltit Fort 300, Baisakhi Festival 90 Baisakhi Festival Basant 110 Channan Mela 126 Chitral 222, 370 Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 371 Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) 371 371 Eid-ul-Fitr Islamic 371 Kalasha 231 Mela Chiraghan 110 Nauroz (Navrus) 370 Ramazan 371 370 Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 276 Shandur Pass Sibi Mela 152 urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri customs 61 etiquette 43 glossary 62 Hunza 304 60-1 restaurants vegetarian travellers 61 Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Chilas Fort 265 Chitral Fort 224-5 Derawar Fort 126 Jamrud Fort 200 Kalam Darchi 361 Karpochu Fort 288 Katkala 218 Khar 134 Kot Diji 180 Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, foreigner’s registration 378 registration foreigner’s Fort Munro 134 forts Faisalabad 136-7 Faisalabad 52-3 Ahmed Faiz Faiz family 106 Faqir 370-1 festivals film 53 fishing 366 food 58-62, 371 Fa Hsien 257 Fa Meadow 267, 348-9, Fairy F events, rates, exchange INDEX Independence 29-31 Ilyasi Mosque247 Mosque325 Id Kah I Hyderabad 175-6 Hussaini 311 Hushe Valley 293-4 Hunza Valley 294, Hunza 294-307,349-54, Hund 207 Humbrok 293,362-3, Hudood Ordinance47 Houbara bustard67 Hotan 330 228 hot springs 275 horse trekking Hoper 307 Hon Pass 354 holidays 372 Hodur 265 HIV 398 hitching 391 history 26-40 Latrek 362 Hispar 120 Minar Hiran NationalParkHingol 154-5 154-5 Hinglaj range63,64 Hindukush sites Hindu Harai347 Hinarche Stations185-6 Hill 424 000 000 Partition 29-31 Partition 27 Mughals military rule34-6 26 Mauryas Kushans 26 32-4 Kashmir 237-9 Highway Karakoram internet resources 28 Indus civilisation26 Independence 29-31 contemporary 40 the28-9 British, books 32,34,38,40 Bangladesh 31-2 138 Ketas Smats206-7 Kashmir Hasan Abdal90 (Tharparkar Great TharDesert

Map pages Map Photograph pages Desert) 176 Desert) Index (H-K) 5 362 295 Indus Kohistan257-63, Indian wildass65 28 Indian Uprising itineraries 19-25 itineraries Ismailis 310 Islamabad 71-93, Islam 41,46-8,238 Ishkoman 283 Irshad Pass 316 49 Iqbal, BegumSarfraz Iqbal, Allama Mohammed 29,52,105 internet resources 18 internet access372 insurance 372 Indus Valley civilisation177,180 dolphin65,67 Indus River Jagran Nala 185 Jaglot 268 J trekking 25,332-4 trekking &mosques24 shrines PassKhyber &theGrandTrunk toSwat23 Highway Karakoram 20 Highway Karakoram Gilgit toChitral&theKalasha Chitral toPeshawar 24 travel within87-8 travel to/from86-7 information77 tourist shopping 85-6 73 medical services internet access73 history 72 food 83-4 85 drinking 77-9 attractions 80 activities accommodation 80-3 Sunnis 46 Sufism 47 Shiites 46 radical Islam47-8 Ismailis 310 holy days371 history 27,28 wildlife 67 news 28 history 26,35 health 397 environment 68 383 air tickets health 395-6 Road 19 valleys 22 72 , 74-5 257 joshanda MohammedAli29,151 Jinnah, Jhelum Valley 185-6 Jhelum 137 Jhandrot 283 jewellery 56 Tomb108 Jehangir’s 200 Jamrud Fort alSadiq122 Jami Masjid 206 Jamal Garhi Jalalabad 271 Karachi 159-73, Karachi Kul320-1 Kara Valley 263 Kandia 309 Kamaris 154 Kalat valleys228-33, Kalasha people45-6,228-30 Kalasha Darchi361 Kalam 216-17 Kalam Valley 251-5,267, Kaghan 254 Kaghan 291 Lake Kachura 57 kabbadi K Karakoram Highway (KKH)235-330, Highway Karakoram Kashgar 322-30, Kashgar 288 Fort Karpochu 292 Karphok Karimabad (Baltit)299-305, Karimabad Nala280 Kargah Buddha280 Kargah travel within173 travel to/from172-3 information164 tourist shopping 171-2 161 medical services internet access161 171 entertainment 171 drinking Beach167 Clifton 164-7 attractions 167-8 activities accommodation 168-70 internet access 322 food 327-8 324-6 attractions accommodation 326-7 safety 237,240-1 people 239-40 20,23 itineraries history 237-9 geology 64 236 , 106 7 162-3 317 , 323 , 165 229 252 299 INDEX 425 inside

health see also see also 178 see inside front 250 209 204 298 Index (K-M) Index cover 36-7 front cover Akbari Mosque 179 Ali Masjid 200 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 Begum Shah Mosque 105 trekking 336-7 Michni checkpoint 201 military rule 34-6 Minapin 298, Mintaka 360-1 Pass Mintaka 318 Valley Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Mirpur 186 Misgar 316-17 mobile phones 377 Moenjodaran Script 180 Moenjodaro 176-9, Mohajir Quami Movement (MQM) Mohajirs 36, 45 money 17, 369, 373-5, monsoon 16 Morkhun 313 mosques maps 373 Marco Polo sheep 67 Mardan 204-5, Margalla 79 Hills Park National 88 Margalla Pass 214 Marghazar Valley 293 Masherbrum Peak Mastuj 234 Mausoleum of Bibi Jawindi 127 measles 399 medical services 397, Mehrgarh 153-4 Mendi 286 metric conversions, Minar-i-Pakistan 105 Mingora 209-12, Mahabat Khan Mosque 194 Mahmud of Ghazni 237 Makli Hill 175 Makran, the 155-6 Malakand 207 Pass Malam Jabba 213-14 malaria398-9 Manchhar Lake 176 Mandarin 408-9 Manghopir 174 Mangla Reservoir 186 Mankial Khwar 216 Manora Island 167 Mansehra 249-51, 103 books

215 see also Borit Lake 309, 312 Haleji Lake 175 Hanna Lake 150 Kachura Lake 291 Kara Kul 320-1 Khalti Lake 283 Lake Dudipat 255 Lake 255 Lulusar Lake Saiful Mulk 254 Manchhar Lake 176 Naltar Lake 351 Rama Lake 268-9 Rati Gali Sar 185 Rush Phari 352-63 Satpara Lake 290-1 Subri Lake 185 food vocabulary 62 travel 17-18 Anarkali 106 attractions 102-9 drinking 115-16 entertainment 116 110 festivals food 113-15 internet access 97-9 Mall, the 106-8 medical services 99 Old City 105-6 shopping 116-17 tourist information 101 travel to/from 117-19 travel within 119-20 M 185 Machiara National Park Madaglasht 222 Madyan 214-15, Lake Dudipat 255 Lake 255 Lulusar Lake Saiful Mulk 254 lakes 69, 125 Lal Suhanra National Park Landi Kota 201 284 Langar Valley language 403-13 Latobah 270 186 Valley Leepa legal matters 372-3 lesbian travellers 371-2 Liachar Nala 267 52-3, literature Loralai 155 219-20 Lowari Pass Lukkay Gutte (Asota) 207 Lahore Fort (Shahi 102-3, Qila) 317 , 8 , 308 Azad Jammu 8 100 , 344 98 see also 55 accommodation 110-13 activities 109 itineraries 19 medical servicesmedical 322 323 permits 324 safety shopping 328 tourist 323-4 information travel to/from 328-9 travel within 329-30 & Kashmir earthquake 64 L 305 Lady Finger Lahore 96-119, Khuzdar 154 Khwazakhela 214 200-2, Khyber Pass Khyber Railway 202 Khyber Village 313 Kil 316 360-1 Kilik Pass Kipling, Rudyard 29, 107 Kirmin 316 Kohat 203 Kohistani 407-8 Koksil 317 Komila 262 Kot Diji 180 Kotli 186 Krakal 232 Kulalai 216 Kundal Shahi 185 Kundyak An 345, Kashmir 32-4, Kashmir 206-7 Smats Kawai 253 Kayal 262 Valley Kekyor 320 Kel 185 Keris 292 Ketas 138 Khalti Lake 283 Khan, AQ 38 34 Ayub Khan, General 34 Yayha Mohammed Khan, General Ali 54 Fateh Khan, Nusrat Khanian 254 Khaplu 292-3 khattak Khewra 138 Khowar 407 69, 317 Khunjerab National Park 307-17, Khunjerab Pass INDEX Multan 128-33, Multan 40 mujaheddin 27 Mughals Mountbatten, Lord Louis 30 mountains Mt Kongur320 Mt Ilam214 motorcycle travel (PearlMoti Masjid Mosque)102 Murree 91-2 Murree mosques 426 000 000 Sunehri Masjid (GoldenMosque) Masjid Sunehri (GrandMosque)225 Masjid Shahi Mosque175 Jahan Shah FaisalShah Mosque77 (PearlMoti Masjid Mosque)102 105 Mosque ofWazirKhan Mosque194 Khan Mahabat alSadiq122 Jami Masjid Ilyasi Mosque247 Mosque325 Id Kah etiquette 43 Mosque131 Eidgah Mosque Defence HousingAuthority Bhong Mosque126-7 Tupopdan 310 Ultar 353-5 Chhish)353 Spantik (Ganesh Shimla Peak 247 Shani 351 Rush Peak 353 351,352 Rakaposhi Nanga Parbat (Diamir)268-70, Ata320 Muztagh PeakMukshpuri 93 Mt Kongur320 151 Mt Khalifat PeakMiranjani 93 PeakMasherbrum 293 Lady Finger 305 Dior294 Kampire Haramosh 268,271 Dobani 268 Diran Peak 272 Bubulimating 305 390-1 within Pakistan 386 to/from Pakistan on theKKH394

Map pages Map Photograph pages 105 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 346 Index (M-P) continued 129 Muztagh Ata320 Muztagh 184 Fort Muzaffarabad 183-4 Muzaffarabad music 53 33-4,35 President Pervez Musharraf, museums national parks68-9 164 ofPakistan National Museum Nathiagali 93 Naran 254-5 Nanga Parbat (Diamir)268-70,346 Naltar Valley 281-2, Nagyr village307 Nagyr 294-307,349-54 guesthouse220 Naghar Fort N qawwali 104 Taxila 88-9 Swat 210 153 Sibi Museum Peshawar 194 166 Museum Maritime Pakistan 80 ArmyMuseum Pakistan AirForce(PAF)Pakistan Museum 164 ofPakistan National Museum Moenjodaro 179 204-5 Mardan 77 Lok VirsaMuseum 107 Museum Lahore Dur232 Kal’as’a Harappa 135 308 Gulmit CulturalMuseum ofPakistan Survey Geological Faqir 106 Museum Khana Defence Mosque HousingAuthority Command &StaffCollegeMuseum 108-9 Chughtai Museum ofArchaeology& Chitral Museum Chakdara 218 Banbhore 174 123 Museum Bahawalpur of Archaeological Museum Deosai Plains NationalPark 69 Chitral GolNational Park 68-9,228 NationalPark Central Karakoram Ayub NationalPark 80 166 145 Museum (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 145 Ethnology 225 145 Balochistan (QuettaMuseum) 68, 286 281 North-West FrontierProvince North-West Nimogram 213 Nilt 297 Nichagh 346 32 Niazi, General newspapers 52,365 Neelam village185 Neelam Valley 185 Nauroz (Navrus)370 passes Pashtuns 37-8,44, 190 Pashto 409-10 29-31 Partition Paras 254 Panjnad Head128 Pamiri 359-60 Palas Valley 262 Pakpattan 136 Pakora Pass 350-1, Development Tourism Pakistan Monument77 Pakistan 80 ArmyMuseum Pakistan painting 54-5 P 271 Oshikandas O Nurpur Shahan 79 Nurpur Shahan 108 Nur Jahan nuclear weapons38 Areas 238-9 Northern 187-234, Shandur-Hundrup NationalPark 284 NationalPark Hills 79 Margalla NationalParkMachiara 185 Lal SuhanraNationalPark 69,125 NationalParkKhunjerab 69,317 NationalParkHingol 154-5 NationalParkHazarganji-Chiltan Donson Pass 344-5, Bolan Pass 153 Babusar Pass 251,255-6 KKH 238 Corporation 378 safety 189,203 Margalla PassMargalla 88 Pass 207 Malakand PassLowari 219-20 PassKilik 360-1, PassKhunjerab 307-17, Irshad Pass 316 Hon Pass 354 Gojal 307-17 150-1 188 350 360 344 308 INDEX 427

210 Index (P-S) Index 370 284 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181 Balochistan 140 cycling 393 hitching 391 KKH 237, 240-1 Lahore 102 NWFP 189 96 Punjab Quetta 145 Sindh 159 trekking 339-40 women travellers 380 salinity 70 salt mines 138 Salt Range, the 138 Sandeman, Robert 142, 153, 154 321 Sarykol Pamir Sassi 286 Satpara Lake 290-1 Schaller, Dr George 65, 67, 69 sea crossings 385-8 Sehwan Sharif 176 Shah, Bulleh 52 Mosque 77 Shah Faisal Shah Jahan Mosque 175 Shahbaz Garhi 206 Shahgai Fort 200 Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque) 225 Shaigiri 270 Shakarparian 77 222, Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) Shandur-Hundrup National Park 276, 284 Shandur Pass 214 Shangla Pass Shankardara 213 Sharakpur Sharif 121 Sharan 254 Sharda 185 S 16-17, 369 safety Sahiwal 135 Saidpur village 79 Saidu Sharif 209-12, Reshit 316 60-1 restaurants rockfall 369 Rohri 179-80 Rohtas Fort 137-8 Rukn-i-Alam, Sheikh 130 231-2 Rumbur Valley 270 Rupal Valley 353 Rush Peak 78 , 77 143 accommodation 80-3 activities 80 attractions 79-80 drinking 85 entertainment 85 food 84-6 history 72 internet access 73 medical services 73 shopping 85-6 tourist information 77 travel to/from 86-7 travel within 87-8 Buddhism 26, 188-9, 237 Islam 41, 46-8, 238 Ismailis 310 Shiites 46 Sufism 47 Sunnis 46 accommodation 146-7 accommodation activities 145-6 attractions 145 drinking 148 entertainment 148 food 147-8 internet access 144 medical services 144 shopping 148-9 tourist information 144-5 travel to/from 149 travel within 150 Red Fort 184 37, 44, 46 refugees 378 registration 46-8 religion R rabies 399 radio 365 KhanRahim 126-7 Yar Rahman Baba 194-6 Rahman, Sheik Mujibur 32, 35, 36 Raikot Bridge 267 Rajah Bazaar 79-80 Rama Lake 268-9 Ramazan (Ramadan) 61, 371 Raminj 316 Rati Gali Sar 185 Rawalpindi 71-93, Q FortQasim Bagh 129-30 bin 27 Qasim, Mohammed qawwali 104 Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum 164-6 Quetta 142-50,

, 195 ,

192 360 , 350 see also 191 345 95 311 7 261 201 national parks Chitral district 220 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181 Balochistan 140 Kalasha 225 valleys trekking 337 history 95 accommodation 196-7 attractions 193-6 food 197-8 internet access 193 medical services 193 Old City 193-4 tourist information 193 travel to/from 198-9 travel within 200 health 395-7 holidays 372 itineraries 19-25 trekking 331 Mintaka 360-1, Pass 350-1, Pass Pakora 284 Shandur Pass 214 Shangla Pass Thui An 345-6, public holidays 372 283 Punial 94-138, Punjab Poonch district 186 population 42-6 postal services 375-6 pottery 56 poverty 50 protected 68-9, areas permits 378-9 190-200, Peshawar people 42-6 Passu Ghar 312 Passu 92 Patriata 261, Pattan Passu 310-13, Passu Punjabis 44 Punjabis Petroglyphs 267 Petroglyphs Phander 283-4 phonecards 377 photography 375 318 Pirali 216 Pishmal planning 15-18, 369 plants 67-8 poetry 52-3 politics 12, 26-40, 47-8 pollution 69-70, 400 polo 275, 276, INDEX shrines 179 Mubarak ofMau Shrine Jamal104 ofBabaShah Shrine shopping 376, Shogran 253 Shishi Valley 222 ship graveyard174 256 Shinkiari Shina 410-11 Shimshal village313 Shimshal Valley 313, Shigar 291-2 Sherqila 283 316 Sher-e-Sabz 347 Shelakui Shatial 263 Nawaf39 Sharif, family38-9 Sharif 428 000 000 Ziarat of Mian Abdul Hakim 151 AbdulHakim Ziarat ofMian 167 Gazi Shah Ziarat ofAbdullah 136 Tomb ofFarid Ganj Shakar Saif-ud-Din ofSheikh Shrine Sarwar134 ofSarkhi Shrine 179 Mubarak ofMau Shrine BazQalandar ofLalShah Shrine 127 ofJalaluddinBukhari Shrine Bakhsh ofDataGanj Shrine Jamal104 ofBabaShah Shrine &MosqueofJalaluddin Shrine Ranjit Samadhi ofMaharaja Saidu Baba211 Ziarat316 Panja Shah 90 Panja Sahib 79 Nurpur Shahan ofSultanAliAkbar130 Mausoleum ofSheikh Mausoleum ofShams-ud-Din Mausoleum ofBibiJawindi127 Mausoleum ofBaha-ud-Din Mausoleum 174 Manghopir 105 Gurdwara ofArjanDev 79 ImamShrine Bari Baba GhundiZiarat316

Map pages Map Photograph pages Ghazrooni 127-8 176 106 Hajveri 127 Bukhari Surkh Singh 105 Rukn-i-alam 130 130 Sabzwari 130 Zakaria Index (S-T) 6 5 Sindh 157-80, 271 Sinakkar Silk Road237-8 296-7 Sikanderabad 153 Sibi Museum 152 Sibi Mela Sibi 152-3 Siachen Glacier36,293 Shutinbar Nala296 Shuthmarg 316 Swat district 207-17, Swat district Sunnis 46 324-5, (Kashgar) Sunday Market (GoldenMosque)105 Masjid Sunehri Sumer Nala263 179 Sukkur Sufism 104 185 Lake Subri Subash Plateau320 STDs 399 56, sport Chhish)353 Spantik (Ganesh Sost 314-15, solo travellers376-7 snow leopard66 Smugglers’ Bazaar196 366 skiing 286-90, Skardu Singhal 283 Sindhis 36,37,45 theatre 55 Thatta 175 Thangus 286 Thandiani 249 Thalle Lungma 292 Thakot 258 Teru 284 12 terrorism 377 telephone services Taxila 88-90, Tashkurgan 318-20, Tarashing 270 Tangir 263-5 Taloybari 296 Taliban 38,40,47 Talechi 268 206 Takht-i-Bahi Tagharma Basin320 Taftan 387-8 T Ziarat Rahman Baba194-6 Ziarat Rahman AbdulLatif176 Ziarat ofShah safety 207 people 190 see alsoindividualsports 314 89 158 287 319 208 6 trekking 331-63, trekking 388-92 travel withinPakistan 382-8 travel to/fromPakistan train travel traditions 41-2 tours 335 information378 tourist toilets 377-8 tipping 373 time 377 Timargarha 218 Caves330 Three-Immortals Threadnet Hunzaprogramme304 Thowar 286 Thor 265 Thol 297 treks within Pakistan 391-3 within Pakistan 387 to/from Pakistan 87 from Rawalpindi from Quetta150 from Peshawar 199 173 from Karachi Xinjiang time318 Avdegar 355-6, tours 335 safety 339-40 335,337-9 porters permits 337 Passu 310-11, Nagyr 349-54 332-4 itineraries Hunza 349-54 Gulmit 309, guides 337-9 Gojal 355-61 Gilgit 346-9 Ghizar 341-6 equipment 336 costs 337 341-6 Chitral district Chalt 295-6 Baltistan 361-3 Pakora Pass 350-1, Passes 360-1, &Mintaka Kilik Humbrok 362-3, La362 Hispar An&Doni342-4, Gokhshal Fairy 348-9, Meadow Donson Pass &KundyakAn344-5, Diran BaseCamp346-7, Batura Glacier356-7, Baltoro Glacier362 343 344 309 333 311 355 362 350 348 357 347 361 INDEX 429

Index (T-Z)Index animals © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © see Bahawalpur 123 Lahore Zoo 107 69 Lal Suhanra National Park monsoon 16 monsoon health 401-2 339-40 safety trekking 339 68, 274, 341, 379 Xinjiang 324 Y 330 Yarkand Gol 234 Yarkhun 283 Yasin 316 Yazrich 311-12 Valley Yunz Has Hajib 325-6 Yusuf Z Zamzama (Kim’s Gun) 107 Zarabad 311 Haq, General 34-5 Zia ul Ziarat 151-2 Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif 176 Zood Khun 316 zoos X weather 15-16, 367 weather 365 weights & measures 366-7 whitewater boating wildlife, women in Pakistan 48-9 379-81 women travellers (WWF) for Nature World Wide Fund 229 252 5 281 trekking see Neelam Valley 185 Neelam Valley 262 Valley Palas 231-2 Rumbur Valley 270 Rupal Valley 313, Shimshal Valley 222 Shishi Valley 311-12 Valley Yunz 378 registration Kalasha valleys 228-33, Kandia 263 Valley Kayal 262 Valley 284 Langar Valley 186 Valley Leepa 214 Marghazar Valley Mintaka 318 Valley 281-2, Naltar Valley Chaprot Valley 295 Valley Chaprot valley 262 Chowa Dara 261 Dubair Valley 271 Haramosh Valley 293-4 Hushe Valley 185-6 Jhelum Valley Kaghan 251-5, Valley vegetarian travellers 61 visas 378-9 volunteering 379 W Wagah 387 Wah Gardens 90 Wakhi 412-13 people 307 Wakhi Tajik walking, water 398 water shortages 70 351 358 271 260 352 360 345 354

Alai Valley 259-61, Alai Valley permits 201-2

Bar Valley 295-6 Bar Valley 291-2 Basho Valley 233 Birir Valley 313 Boibar Valley 232-3 Valley Bumboret Astor Valley 268-70 Astor Valley 271-2, Bagrot Valley Shimshal Pamir 357-9, 357-9, Shimshal Pamir Thui An 345-6, Ultar 353-4, Pamiri 359-60, Pamiri Rakaposhi Camp 351-2, Base Rush Phari 352-3,

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. vacations 372 vaccinations 396 valleys V Uch Sharif 127-8 Udegram 213 Ultar Meadow 305, 354 Upal 322 150 Urak Tangi Urdu 403-5 Uyghur 411-12 U tuberculosis 399 TurikhoGol 233-4 turtles 168 TV 52, 365 typhoid 399-400 Tribal 44, 189, 190, 200 Areas