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The National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy NAHAThe National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy In This Issue: • The Humble Case Study • Food for Skin • Herbal Facial Elixirs • Craft Your Own Lip Balm • Hydrolats for Facial Care • Aromatic Psychodermatology Aromatherapy E-Journal 2011 • 1 Aromatherapy Journal The National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy Please scroll your way through to enjoy the journal as you have others in the past. This is the paperless, waste free version that NAHA has adopted. If you have trouble in viewing or would prefer a disk sent to you, please contact us and we will send one out to you. Additional fees apply. Enjoy and we look forward to hearing from you soon! NAHA’s New Board of Directors NAHA Office President: Kelly Holland Azzaro, RA, CCAP, LMT Vice President: Shellie Enteen, BA, RA, LMT PO BOX 1868 Public Relations: Jennifer Hochell Pressimone Banner Elk, NC 28604 Secretary: Gina Rafkind Office: (828) 898-6161 Director Coordinator: Annette Davis, CN Fax: (828) 898-1965 Journal Layout: Robyn Harden Email: [email protected] Journal Editorial Team: Shellie Enteen & www.naha.org Kelly Holland Azzaro NAHA Webmaster: Yelena Vusataya Aromatherapy for Natural Skin Care at Home and in the Spa In This Issue: 5 Working with Clients to Select Skincare Essential Oils..Dorene Petersen BA, Dip.NT, Dip.Acu,RH (AHG) 12 Aromatic Psychodermatology.......................................................Jade Shutes BA, Dipl.AT, Cert. Herbalist 14 Herbal Facial Elixirs....................................................Stephanie Tourles, Herbalist, Certified Aromatherapist 23 Food for Skin.............................................................................Stephanie Holland, Certified Aromatherapist 28 Hydrolats for Facial Care...................................................................................Penny Price, MEd, (Oxon.) 32 Craft Your Own Lip Balm...............................................................Irene Wolansky of Mountain Rose Herbs 34 Essential Oil Recipes to Create Your Own Skin Care Products.....................Sylla Sheppard Hanger LMT, SET 39 Lavender Polenta Coffee Cake.......................................Roz Zollinger, Reflexologist, Certified Aromatherapist Editor’s note: Agarwood, Aloeswood, Frankincense, Rosewood and Sandalwood species are listed as both threatened and endangered. Please choose a different essential oil to work with to allow the trees to make a sustainable recovery. To learn more about endangered and threatened species please visit www.cropwatch.org for more information. NAHA does not encourage or endorse the purchase, sale or use of endangered essential oils. Disclaimer: NAHA and the NAHA Editorial Board cannot accept responsibility or liability for the information contained in the NAHA Aromatherapy Journal/E-Booklet or on the NAHA Website. The information is shared for educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose or take the place of professional healthcare. The opinions expressed by the authors in this journal or e-booklet do not necessarily reflect the opinions of NAHA. Please consult your health care practitioner if you are pregnant or have been diagnosed with any serious healthcare problems before using essential oils. Keep all aromatherapy products out of reach of children and pets. Before using essential oils and aromatherapy products please consult with a professional aromatherapist. NAHA asks that all authors and contributors include information on safe use of essential oils and clearly define each essential oil’s common name and Latin binomial(s). NAHA has the right to accept or reject any articles, advertisements or content submitted. NAHA website is a resource-full area for information on Aromatherapy Safety, Applications and Uses. www.naha.org © Copyright 2011 NAHA • All rights reserved 3 Editor’s Safety Note: Photosensitivity or Phototoxicity Some essential oils, when exposed to sunlight or (Petroselinum crispum). Mandarin (Citrus reticulata another source, are known to absorb ultraviolet light var. ‘mandarin’) contains only a trace, as does sweet more effectively than the skin itself. The term orange and tangerine. These three essences are ‘photosensitivity’ refers to skin cells absorbing this considered very mild with no stringent limitation on extra amount of ultraviolet light which results in cell use. damage and undesirable changes in cell structure. If Fig leaf absolute (Ficus carica), verbena oil (Lippia photosensitizing essential oils, also termed citriodora), tagetes (Tagetes minuta), angelica root ‘phototoxic’, are applied to skin which is then (Angelica glauca) and rue (Ruta graveolens) all contain exposed to ultraviolet light, most commonly as psoralens and are considered phototoxic. sunlight but also in tanning beds and other sources, photosensitization is almost certain to occur. This will happen whether the essential oil is used neat or diluted. The risk of photosensitization remains for up to 12 hours after use. Psoralens or furocoumarins are the most common phototoxic agents found in essential oils in varying degrees. Bergaptene is the furocoumarin commonly found in expressed citrus oils which causes them to have a safety warning for photosensitivity. The most phototoxic essential oils include bergamot (Citrus bergamia), cold-pressed lime (Citrus limetta), cold-pressed bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), angelica root (Angelica glauca), cumin (Cuminum cyminum) rue (Ruta graveolens), opoponax (Commiphora erythrea). Some of these essential oils can be obtained distilled (such as lime and lemon). Distillation changes the monoterpene structure to a non-phototoxic sesquiterpene. The essential oil of bergamot (Citrus bergamia) that has had the furocoumarin bergaptene removed is then designated FCF or BF (Furocourmarin Free or Bergaptene Free) and is considered safe to use on the skin without danger of photosensitization. When working with phototoxic essential oils, it is advised to use them in no more than 1% dilution. It is also recommended that the user wear protective clothing, sunscreen and avoid prolonged exposure to Mildly phototoxic essential oils include cold-pressed sunlight, visits to tanning beds or ultraviolet grapefruit (Citrus paradisi), cold-pressed lemon treatments for up to 12 hours after application. For (Citrus limonum), cold-pressed sweet orange (Citrus this reason, essential oils that result in sinensis var. dulcis), cold-pressed tangerine (Citrus photosensitivity are not recommended for use in reticulata var.tangerine) and parsley leaf daytime skincare products. © Copyright 2011 NAHA • All rights reserved 4 Working with Clients to Select Skincare Essential Oil Blends and Administration Method By Dorene Petersen BA, Dip.NT, Dip.Acu, RH (AHG) Essential oils have properties and may protect against bacteria in been prized for cen- preparations that contain proteins or carbohydrates. turies for their unique When added to creams or base oils, essential oils may fragrances and their help to extend the shelf life of the product without ability to support op- the need for chemical preservatives. timal health and well- ness. More than 100 One of the most important properties of essential oils essential oils are used when used with skin care is their ability to penetrate in aromatherapy, in- the skin. Preparations made with essential oils may cluding applications be able to penetrate beyond the surface of the skin for healthy skin and and can reach subcutaneous tissues. The ability to mood support, stress re- reach this level further boosts overall health and lief, and to promote tissue formation. vitality. With use of appropriate essential oils, signs of stress, toxins, and many imbalances in the body can be significantly reduced and in some instances, reversed. The goal when using essential oils for this purpose is to actively stimulate and detoxify the body, and to support a healthier metabolism through a holistic approach. It is important, however, to keep realistic ex- pectations in mind and to encourage patience. Attitude is very important. Using essential oils with skin care should combine health benefits with the fact that they are a pleasurable experience. A positive, relaxed attitude and an informed application of essential oils are best. Before applying essential oils, it is important to know why certain oils are included in specific skin blends, including each oil’s properties and active constituents. This allows Based on information collected from the client for an informed decision with realistic expectations (including information about specific needs, aims, about which oils to use and how. and expectations for essential oil use along with possible contraindications and safety issues), I decide The methods by which we use essential oils and on objectives for the overall proposed protocol (over harness their health promoting properties do not a period of time) and objectives for this specific need to be complex. Even in simple applications, application (of the blend I have just created). I feel it is essential oils exhibit many benefits over other important to always involve my clients in this process materials that are often used in skin care. by explaining my rationale for the selection of Essential oils are more concentrated than using fresh essential oils and the method of use. I’ve found that or dried herbs. They can also be more convenient when clients understand how and why they are using when making preparations at home or for clients, certain products and how these products work, they when collecting fresh herbs
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