Orissa Review * January - 2008 Pipili as a Rural Tourism Destination Abhisek Mohanty Pipili, the heart of the colorful art work called in Pipili that the craft has a living and vibrant appliqué, is located at a distance of 20 km from tradition continuing over centuries. While most Bhubaneswar on the NH 203 connecting appliqué craftsmen are concentrated in Pipili, there Bhubaneswar with Puri. Pipili is located at 20.12° are quite a few in Puri and Khallikote, N 85.83° E. It is at Pipili that one takes a turn Parlakhemundi and Boudh. and moves eastward to proceed to Konark, the Appliqué works of Pipili is also known as site of the Sun Temple. At an average elevation patching cloth design. The local name of this of 25 metres (82 feet), Pipili is a Notified Area handicraft is Chandua. As with many other Council (NAC) and has 16 wards under handicrafts of Orissa, the roots of the applique jurisdiction of Puri district. It is famous for art/craft form is interwined with the rituals and designing beautiful appliqué handicrafts. As of traditions of Lord Jagannath, the presiding deity 2001 India Census, Pipili had a population of of the Puri temple. The appliqué items are mainly 14,263. Males constitute 51% of the population used during processions of the deities in their and females 49%. Pipili has an average literacy various ritual outings. Items like Chhati, Tarasa rate of 70%, higher than the national average of and Chandua are used for the purpose. However, 59.5%: male literacy is 77%, and female literacy the appliqué work in its colourful best is most is 63%. In Pipili, 12% of the population is under prominent in the cloth cover of the three chariots 6 years of age.As a legend would have it, the of the presiding deities in which they travel every Pipili derived its name from Pirs (holy Muslim year during the Ratha Yatra or Car Festival. As saints), many of whom lived in this area. per tradition, the colour scheme of the three covers Appliqué', which is a French term, is a is predetermined. The chariot of Balabhadra technique by which the decorative effect is known as Taladhawaja has a cloth covering of obtained by superposing patches of coloured bright green and red, while that of Subhadra fabrics on a basic fabric, the edges of the patches known as Padmadhwaja or Darpadalana has a being sewn in some form of stitchery. It is distinct cover of bright red and black. The chariot of Lord from what is known as patch work in which small Jagannath called Nadighosha has a cover of bright pieces of cut fabrics are usually joined side by red and yellow. The basic design of all three is side to make a large piece of fabric or for repairing similar being a combination of narrow and wide a damaged fabric. Though the form is not unknown stripes while on the four sides above the openings, in other parts of India, it is in Orissa and especially there are appliqué mythical motifs like Rahu, 36 Orissa Review * January - 2008 Chandra as well as motifs from nature like flowers before the deities in etc. It is these colourful appliqué covers which their ceremonial indentify the chariots of the three deities from far processions. away by the millions of pilgrims thronging the 'Jhalar' another Badadanda or the Grand Road of Puri in which popular item is a the Lords make their annual sojourn during the sort of frill which is Car Festival. Seats and pillows in appliqué are used as a border to also made for ceremonial use by the deities during canopies and also the annual ritual of bathing festival (Snana Jatra) independently used and is locally known as 'Chakada Kama' with as decorative motifs of 27 stars and geometrical forms in pieces. An appliqué work with motifs of fish, frog etc. on interesting secular black cloth is used in the ritual dress of the Deities and popular item is 'Batua', a unique Orissan cloth of Puri temple, locally known as the 'Gaja pouch which has usually a semi-circular shape with Uddharana Vesha', incarnation of Rescuer of the top being straight. There are various layers of Elephant. Applique cover is also made for cloth providing pockets for storing different items caparisoning the dummy horses in the 'Horse of use and the mouth is closed by pulling strings Dance' or Ghoda Nacha during Chaitra Festival attached to the sides. It is very popular among in Puri and other places. The craft is traditionally village folk for keeping the materials for 'pan', like practised by a caste of professional tailors, known betel leaf, areca nut, lime, etc., as well as for as 'Darjis'. As with others services of the Lord, keeping money. Another traditional item is 'Sujnis' Darji Seva or the supply of appliqué items is or embroidered quilts. The basic material for rendered by the caste members in return for which applique is cloth. The process is fairly simple and they receive certain portion of the daily offering, has been succinctly summarized by Mr. B.C. 'bhog' from the temple. All this is regulated by the Mohanty in his monograph on Applique Craft of Record-of-Rights of the Jagannath Temple. The Orissa: Study of Contemporary Textile Crafts of Darjis have their own headman or Sardar who India as under: 'Flat motifs are first cut from cloth has a higher share in the 'bhog' of the Jagannath and specially prepared motifs are made separately. Temple. It is interesting to note that the craftsmen If more than one of the same cut motifs is are socially well organised and there are close required, a stencil is used. These cut and specially family relationships between the craftsmen of Puri prepared motifs are then superposed on a base and Pipili. Their organisation can be very well cloth in predetermined layout and sequence. The compared to the craftsmens' guilds of medieval edges of the motifs are turned in and skillfully Europe. They also have annual meetings of stitched onto the base cloth or stitched by craftsmen to resolve social and related problems. embroidery or without turning as necessary. The The traditional items made of applique specially prepared motifs may be coloured or patterns and associated with religious functions white. The base cloth is usually coloured. Some are canopies, locally called 'chanduas', Chhati, a of the specially prepared motifs have exclusive sort of big umbrella with a long wooden handle. embroidery work and some have mirror work. Tarasa, a heart-shaped wooden piece covered In heavy canopies, the base cloth is additionally by appliqué cloth and supported by a long supported by a back cloth for strength. The wooden pole, both these items being carried stitching process varies from item to item and 37 Orissa Review * January - 2008 come under six broad categories, namely, popular appliqué items today are garden (1) bakhia, (2) taropa, (3) ganthi, umbrellas, a variant of Chhati with wooden or (4) chikana, (5) button-hole and (6) ruching. aluminium stands, shoulder bags, ladies hand Sometimes emroidered patterns are also used and bags, wall hangings, lamp shades, bed covers, in a few items mirror work is also incorporated. pillow covers, letter pouches, etc. Appliqué items The layout of various motifs and patterns vary are also being used in combination with other according to the shape of the piece. The canopy handicrafts to produce composite products. An has a large centre piece which may be a square. interesting use is the superimposition of appliqué This centre piece is then bounded by several on grass mats and used as partitions. Though borders of different widths, one outside the other, earlier the art form was restricted to Darji caste, till the edge is reached. In the umbrella and Chhati today it is practised by non-caste members, the inner field is arranged in circles, each circle notably by some young Muslim boys. Unlike many having patches of one motif placed side by side. other handicrafts, appliqué items are attractive Patterns are laid in the same way as the shape of artifacts of daily use apart from being decorative. the Tarasa, with a large motif or two placed at They are also comparatively cheaper. the centre. The layout for covers for horses consists of a series of concentric strips in the Appliqué work of Pipili is also known as portion which covers the neck, each strip having patching cloth design. The local name of this patches of one motif, while the portions which handicraft is Chandua. Pipili, the heart of this fall on either side of the body are plain, having colorful art work is located at a distance of 20 border all round with or without a motif at the Km from Bhubaneswar on the Bhubaneswar to centre of the plain field. The motifs used are fairly Puri road. On the main road at Pipili there are varied yet fixed and consist of stylised many shops selling Appliqué work products, representations of flora and fauna as well as a tourist visiting Puri buy these products from Pipili. few mythical figures. Of the more common of these This cottage industry got encouragement from motifs are the elephant, parrot, peacock, ducks, temple rituals of Orissa. This is one of the temple creepers, trees, flowers like lotus, jasmine, half- arts of Orissa. During Ratha Yatra time (Car moon, the Sun and Rahu (a mythical demon who Festival) many canopies of Appliqué were held devours the sun). Just as there are a few fixed aloft the Lord Jagannath and brother Balabhadra motifs only a limited number of colours are used sister Subhadra.