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Fashion Marketing VYSOKÁ ŠKOLA HOTELOVÁ V PRAZE 8, SPOL. S R.O. Bc. Andrea Hubálková Fashion marketing Diplomová práce 2018 Fashion marketing Diplomová práce Bc. Andrea Hubálková Vysoká škola hotelová v Praze 8, spol. s r. o. Katedra marketingu a mediálních komunikací Studijní obor: Marketingové komunikace ve službách Vedoucí diplomové práce: doc. Ing. Dagmar Jakubíková, Ph.D. Datum odevzdání diplomové práce: 22. listopadu 2018 Datum obhajoby diplomové práce: Email: [email protected] Praha 2018 Fashion marketing Master’s Dissertation Andrea Hubálková The Institute of Hospitality Management in Prague 8, Ltd. Department of Marketing and Media Communication Major: Marketing Communication in Services Thesis Advisor: doc. Ing. Dagmar Jakubíková, Ph.D. Date of Submission: 2018-11-22 Date of Thesis Defense: Email: [email protected] Prague 2018 Prohlašuji, že jsem diplomovou práci na téma Fashion marketing zpracovala samostatně. Použitou literaturu a veškeré podkladové materiály uvádím v přiloženém seznamu literatury. V souladu s § 47b zákona č. 111/1998 Sb., o vysokých školách v platném znění souhlasím se zveřejněním mé diplomové práce v elektronické podobě ve veřejné přístupné databázi Vysoké školy hotelové v Praze 8, spol. s. r. o. V Praze dne 19. 11. 2018 ……………………………………..… Andrea Hubálková Poděkování Velmi ráda bych poděkovala vedoucí diplomové práce doc. Ing. Dagmar Jakubíkové, Ph.D. za to, že mi při výběru vlastního tématu vyšla vstříc, za její ochotu a cenné připomínky. V neposlední řadě děkuji své rodině za jejich podporu. Abstrakt HUBÁLKOVÁ, Andrea. Fashion marketing. [Diplomová práce] Vysoká škola hotelová. Praha: 2018. 85 stran. Diplomová práce je zaměřena na fashion marketing. Cílem práce je přiblížení marketingu v módě, historického vývoje módy jako nástroje k vyjádření osobnosti, což nám pomůže k celkovému pochopení častého odkazu na minulé dekády v módě a návratu módních trendů. Teoretická část popisuje globalizaci v módním světě jako novodobou éru, kdy se klasický módní průmysl mění v obrovské konglomeráty, které postupně kupují tradiční rodinné firmy a tvoří z nich velké masové značky. Dále je zmíněn nástup internetu a sociálních sítí, které změnily obraz módy úplně. V analytické části se autorka zabývá československými módními salóny, současnými českými návrháři a módními značkami, pojetím luxusu, módou pro charitu a instagramem. Analýza je obohacena hloubkovými rozhovory s kompetentními osobami, které se pohybují v módě. Návrhová část je soubor doporučení, která by měla vést ke zlepšení fashion marketingu v ČR. Klíčová slova: fashion marketing, móda, historie módy, luxus, instagram Abstract HUBÁLKOVÁ, Andrea. Fashion marketing. [Thesis] Institute of Hospitality Management in Prague. Prague: 2018. 85 pages. The thesis focuses on fashion marketing. Its goal is to discuss marketing in fashion; historical development of fashion as a mean to express one’s personality, which ties to overall understanding of frequent reference to past decades in fashion and periodical return of past fashion trends. The theoretical section describes globalisation in the world of fashion as a modern era in which classical fashion industry transforms itself into large conglomerates which acquire traditional family businesses and create mass brands. The internet and social networks which changed fashion landscape entirely are discussed. In the analytical section, the author discusses Czechoslovak fashion salons; contemporary Czech designers and fashion brands; paradigms of luxury; pro-bono fashion; and Instagram. The analysis is supported by in-depth interviews with fashion professionals. The concluding section lists recommendations to improve various aspects of fashion marketing in the Czech Republic. keywords: fashion marketing, history of fashion, luxury, instagram Obsah 1 Teoreticko-metodologická část ...............................................................................................3 1.1 Marketing .......................................................................................................................3 1.2 Public relations ...............................................................................................................3 1.3 Luxus...............................................................................................................................4 1.4 Emoce v marketingu........................................................................................................5 1.5 Chování zákazníka ...........................................................................................................5 1.6 Historie módy .................................................................................................................6 1.7 Historický vývoj módy .....................................................................................................7 1.7.1 Starověk svět (Pravěk až 600 n. l.) ..............................................................................8 1.7.2 Středověká romantika a obchod (600 - 1449) ........................................................... 10 1.7.3 Renesanční nádhera (1450 - 1624) ........................................................................... 11 1.7.4 Baroko a Rokoko (1625-1789) .................................................................................. 12 1.7.5 Od revoluce k rozpustilosti (1790-1900) ................................................................... 14 1.7.6 Belle Époque a Jazz (1901-1928) ............................................................................... 16 1.7.7 Od elegance k praktičnosti (1929-1946).................................................................... 20 1.7.8 Optimismus a mládí (1947-1963) .............................................................................. 21 1.7.9 Od svobodných 60. let po glam rock (1964-1979) ..................................................... 22 1.7.10 Éra jet set ................................................................................................................. 23 1.7.11 Věk návrhářů (1980 - současnost)............................................................................. 24 2 Analytická část ..................................................................................................................... 31 2.1 Fashion marketing ......................................................................................................... 31 2.2 Ostatní módní trhy ........................................................................................................ 32 2.3 Česká móda – historie ................................................................................................... 36 2.3.1 Salon Oldřich Rosenbaum......................................................................................... 37 2.3.2 Modelový dům Arnoštky Roubíčkové ....................................................................... 38 2.3.3 Salon Hany Podolské ................................................................................................ 39 2.3.4 Zika Ascher ............................................................................................................... 41 2.4 Česká móda – současnost .............................................................................................. 42 2.4.1 Božidara Richterová ................................................................................................. 43 2.4.2 Jolana Kotábová ....................................................................................................... 44 2.4.3 Chatty ...................................................................................................................... 45 2.4.4 Jiří Kalfař .................................................................................................................. 47 2.4.5 Ivana Mentlová ........................................................................................................ 48 2.5 Luxus............................................................................................................................. 49 Lenka Vejvalková .................................................................................................................. 52 Tamara Kotvalová ................................................................................................................. 53 2.6 Móda pro charitu .......................................................................................................... 54 2.7 Instagram ...................................................................................................................... 56 2.8 Vlastní výzkum .............................................................................................................. 58 2.8.1 Citace a interpretace ..................................................................................................... 59 3 Návrhová část ...................................................................................................................... 62 Závěr Seznam obrázků Seznam tabulek Seznam příloh Zdroje Přílohy Úvod Zažité české rčení praví, že šaty dělají člověka. Ano nebo ne? Je to přece jen oblečení, boty a pár doplňků k tomu. Ráno stojíme u skříně a přemýšlíme, co si vzít. Někdo pár minut, možná sekund, ale i třeba desítky minut. Každý z nás si něco na sebe obléká a vlastně tím vzniká neverbální komunikační prostředek. Oblečení o nás říká mnoho. Víc než si myslíme. Je to první dojem. Pokud se budeme procházet centrem podzimní Paříže, tak potkáme ženy a
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