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WTHURSDAY, SEPTEMBER W11, 2014 ■ WOMEN’S WEARD DAILY ■ $3.00

WWD CoverWrap_Valentino FW2014_Final.indd 1 04/08/14 11:06 WWD CoverWrap_Valentino FW2014_Final.indd 2-3 04/08/14 11:12 MILEY’S METIER MILEY CYRUS TURNED UP WRITING AT JEREMY SCOTT’S SHOW TO UNVEIL HER NEW ROLE THE NEW YORK MAN IT DOWN AS AN ARTIST. PAGE 4 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK INCLUDED DONNA KARAN REVEALS MEN’S WEAR, TOO, AND THERE WERE PLANS TO WRITE HER SOME DEFINITE TRENDS. PAGE MW1 MEMOIR. PAGE 4

DEAL WITH FOSSIL

SPRING 2015 Intel Details Push NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Into Wearable World By SHARON EDELSON

WEARABLES STAYED in the spotlight Wednesday, a day after Apple Inc. unveiled its first smartwatch. This time it was the turn of Intel Corp., which held its annual developers conference in San Francisco. Intel chief executive officer Brian Krzanich revealed THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY the semiconductor company’s partnership with Fossil WWD and introduced Greg McKelvey, chief strategy and mar- keting offi cer, who called the watch company’s con- sumers trendsetters who focus on fashion, style and status. In addition to the Fossil label, the $1.3 billion global brand controls a portfolio of timepieces and ac- cessories that includes names such as Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch, Emporio Armani and Diesel. “How do we integrate technology into our exist- ing system?” McKelvey told the conference. “We’re taking technology in a modular way and creating a beautiful product.” For Fossil, timing is everything. Years ago, the company developed smartwatches with Palm PDAs on the wrist. “We noticed then that the technology wasn’t there,” he said. “Those things are now chang- ing. We’re also seeing interest from our core trendset- ting consumer. It’s about smart fashion and accesso- Sunny ries that are alive based on technology. “The size of the business is an opportunity. On a unit basis, only one out of fi ve watches sold are ours,” he said, adding that Fossil wants to capture the busi- ness of the other four watches. “This is all about a partner,” McKelvey added. Side “Fashion tech is impossible to do on your own. Intel Admitting he’s “a cockeyed optimist,” is bringing its unique technology capabilities.” Michael Kors presented a buoyantly Krzanich referred to Intel’s partnership with Opening Ceremony, saying, “We were building a chic collection that he said [bracelet] with cell phone capability. It’s not teth- was inspired by the feminine ered and has its own operating system that links to silhouettes of postwar your cell phone and gets all your texts and Twitter America. That meant feeds. We went and got a great partner in Opening waist-centric full skirts, SEE PAGE 12 cropped chinos and cashmere pullovers with matching corsages. Instagram’s Systrom Here, a suit with a cropped jacket in a cheerful On NYFW and More fl oral print. For more on By RACHEL STRUGATZ New York Fashion Week, see pages 6 to 11. FASHION HAS BEEN a focus of the shows these past nine days. But the focus has been on tech. Amid live-streaming, tweeting, Twitter’s introduc- tion of the “buy” button, Apple’s unveiling of the Apple Watch and the nonstop Instagramming from design- ers, brands and showgoers, fashion insiders are as en- grossed in social media, smartphones and wearables as they are colors for spring, the new shapes and who is sitting in the front row (only so they can Instagram it). While Twitter is still used throughout the fashion pack to get a quick message out — texts are used to set up dinner dates or drinks — Instagram has become the fashion world’s prime means of communication as de- signers, bloggers, editors, assistants and even retailers rush to gain followers and raise not only their profi les but, hopefully, that of the companies they work for. So, one would assume Instagram cofounder Kevin Systrom would be as feted in the front rows of fash- ion as Anna, Glenda and Robbie & Co. Not so. Systrom didn’t even go to any shows (although he did attend the Met Gala). Nonetheless, he talked with WWD about the platform’s place in the industry, which brands are in- novative and how to cope with social-media clutter.

WWD: How much of your advertising today comes from fashion? Kevin Systrom: The first advertiser was a fashion brand. We had 10 initial partners for the advertising rollout, and three were fashion- and retail-related: PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 WWD.COM Lands’ End Results Impress THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD Same-store sales increased 2.8 percent last quar- By DAVID MOIN ter. Total revenues rose 5.4 percent to $347.2 mil- lion, while the market had expected $331.1 million FRESH FROM ITS spin-off from Sears Holdings in sales. In last year’s quarter, Lands’ End gener- Corp., Lands’ End is showing improved results, ated $329.6 million in sales. building up its offering and getting investors excited. Retail sales in the latest quarter decreased 2.9 On Wednesday, after Lands’ End reported earn- percent to $54.6 million, partly due to the decrease ings and sales that readily beat estimates, the stock in shops inside Sears stores. Direct sales rose 7.1 jumped 20.6 percent, closing at $40.20, up $6.86, on percent to $292.6 million. Gross margins in the lat- Nasdaq. Volume was nearly 3 million shares, about est quarter rose 310 basis points to 48.5 percent. seven times the average. Huber pointed out “There is a good spirit that turnaround efforts in the company. We’re Women’s were in progress well working on a lot of new apparel before April’s spin- ideas,” Edgar Huber, boosted off and that he felt the Lands’ End’s president results at company was now out and chief executive of- Lands’ End. of turnaround mode. ficer, told WWD. “I feel “We started to turn the Backstage at Bibhu Mohapatra. LEXIE MORELAND extremely good about business around before For more, see WWD.com.

the third quarter and the the spin-off. Since then, PHOTO BY fourth quarter.” we have been able to In the second quarter, focus even more on get- “Overall, the women’s ting everything right, Wearables were a key point for Intel chief executive officer business was very strong. developing a stronger Brian Krzanich in his keynote address at the company’s Outerwear is already international business PAGE 1 doing extremely well, and focusing on a digi- annual developer conference Wednesday. dresses, too, and we had tal transformation,” he a good back-to-school per- said. Huber joined the Fashion has been a focus of the shows these past nine formance in kids,” Huber company three years days. But the focus has been on tech. PAGE 1 said, noting that the pink ago and has been insti- duffle coats have been tuting expense controls, Fresh from its spin-off from Sears Holdings Corp., Lands’ particularly popular. more fashionable prod- End is showing improved results. PAGE 2 Weathering the tough ucts to modernize the retail climate, Lands’ image, a wider range of Fitch Ratings has downgraded the long-term issuer default End reported a 4.9 per- fits, and some new catego- ratings on Sears to “CC” from “CCC,” pushing it further into cent net income gain in ries, such as performance junk bond status. PAGE 2 the second quarter ended wear, which was intro- Aug. 1 to $11.8 million, or duced last spring. “We Guccio Gucci, the great-grandson of Gucci founder Guccio 37 cents a diluted share, have a plan to make it Gucci, has been accused of fraudulent bankruptcy and is and even better oper- much bigger,” Huber said. under house arrest. PAGE 4 ating results. Adjusted Among other initia- earnings before interest, tives, Huber said he’s After weeks of industry speculation about who would be taxes, depreciation and evaluating the possibil- named Maxim magazine’s new editor in chief, WWD has amortization increased ity of a retail rollout in PAGE 4 26.6 percent to $30.1 mil- the U.S. learned the job will go to Kate Lanphear. lion. The market had es- Abroad, Lands’ End timated EPS at 17 cents. opened two shops-in- Donna Karan clearly has a few stories up her sartorial In the year-ago quarter, shop in House of Fraser sleeve. Thus, she is now starting to work on her memoir, Lands’ End reported net income of $11.3 million or 35 in the U.K. this month, marking the brand’s first which was just acquired by Ballantine Bantam. PAGE 4 cents a share, and adjusted EBITDA of $23.78 million. brick-and-mortar foray overseas. Three more Huber said the most recent net would have been shops inside House of Fraser are planned in the Trinity Ltd., which owns the Kent & Curwen, Cerruti and higher except the company had to absorb some of coming weeks. Huber is also working on partner- Gieves & Hawkes brands, has named Cody Kondo chief the costs of separating from Sears and some bonus ships in Japan. merchandising officer. PAGE MW3 payouts. Nevertheless, gains despite the challeng- In the U.S., Lands’ End operates five regular ing economic environment can be attributed to the stores, six outlets and more than 200 shops in- Craft Atlantic, a contemporary men’s sportswear collection, spin-off from Sears and the resulting downsizing side Sears stores. In September 2013, Lands’ End is relaunching for fall with a new designer and a planned that’s leading to higher productivity, as well as ex- launched a global extension of its core e-commerce store opening in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. PAGE MW3 pense controls, inventory management and elevat- platform, allowing international customers to view ed merchandising and marketing. pricing and place orders in 60 local currencies at Man of the Week: For Apple Inc., a firm so obsessed with “We are right-sizing our retail footprint in Sears,” landsend.com. Currently, the company distributes sleek design, its top executive should dress the part — the Huber said. “We have closed some shops at Sears to more than 136 countries. The company has sub- dot-com geek look is over. PAGE MW3 and [are] reducing some of the square footage in cer- stantial operations in Germany‚ Japan and the U.K. tain Sears stores and increasing the square footage as well as catalogue and e-commerce channels in in others. The revenues are declining because we Austria, France and Canada. ON WWD.COM are in fewer Sears stores, but the comps are up.” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ARNOLD J. KARR Backstage at Bibhu Mohapatra: WWD went behind the scenes at Bibhu Mohapatra’s spring show. For more, see WWD.com. Sears Receives Credit Rating Downgrade the funds generated would take the retailer only FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA By VICKI M. YOUNG through 2016, given the high rate of cash burn. @ WWD.com/social A spokesman for Sears said, “We don’t agree ALREADY A RISKY PROPOSITION, an investment with their action given our demonstrated history TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. in Sears Holdings Corp.’s bonds just got riskier. of honoring our financial commitments.…We have WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Credit-ratings agency Fitch Ratings has down- proven that we have an asset-rich portfolio that COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 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to market when spring deliveries hit Miller is already on it. The designer stores in early 2015, the subtle cat-eye packed up her design team and FASHION SCOOPS frame will hit the eyewear brand’s retail whizzed them out to Long Beach, N.Y., boutiques in New York and Los Angeles Wednesday for some surfing. Adept at today. The limited-edition frames — 100 all sorts of board sports, Miller also AS TOLD BY DONNA: From her Woodmere, really — of bright toys (the kind you get pieces were produced — will retail wakeboards and will be doing a charity N.Y., upbringing to the time at Anne from grocery store gum-ball machines), for $425 and come in five colorways, kiteboarding event in the Hamptons Klein, the launch of her own brand with pom-poms, key chains, candy wrappers, including black with an iridescent Sept. 20. Her team’s day at the beach Seven Easy Pieces, followed by DKNY glittered streamers, scrunchies and ivory shell and black with a silver shell. Wednesday was more relaxed, since and the sale to LVMH Moët Hennessy such, cobbled together with a hot-glue it was first and foremost a “preshow Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan clearly has gun. It’s crafty. treat,” she said. — R.F. a few stories up her sartorial sleeve. While other notables — Bella Thorne, Thus, she is now starting to work on Leigh Lezark, Whoopi Goldberg, 2 Chainz IN HIS SHOES: “It’s rare for me to talk her memoir, which was just acquired by and Scott Lipps — waited along the front for more than five minutes. Here Ballantine Bantam Dell, an imprint of row, Miley was arriving backstage. She it’s for an hour, and I don’t feel like Random House. emerged and immediately made a beeline I’m suffocating,” Christian Louboutin “As I look back and reflect on my to her three pieces sitting backstage (one said following the screening of a journey, I see how one chapter led to was on the floor, leaning sadly against Oliver Peoples’ sunglasses for Rodarte. documentary about him at the Pagode in another, how something ended and a wall in the corner) and plopped her Paris on Tuesday night. something else began,” Karan said. “I’m oversize tote on the ground next to the “[They] knew exactly what they wanted His longtime friend and model Farida very excited to share my story. largest one. She crouched down and — there is a reason they are who they Khelfa made the 52-minute film, after “Our lives are guided by what happens rifled through God-knows-what until she are,” said Oliver Peoples chief executive following in the Parisian shoe designer’s to us, and we choose which roads to found her tools: a hot-glue gun and a roll officer David Schulte, who became footsteps for two years, filming him take,” she added. “I was born into of hot-pink duct tape. She proceeded to friends with Rodarte designers Kate and anywhere from the Nile in Egypt to Le fashion. My father, a tailor, died, and that pretend to make some finishing touches Laura Mulleavy within the small fashion Caprice in New York. led me to Seventh Avenue. My mentor on the large piece, while community of Los Angeles, “He’s like my brother, but I think to Anne Klein died, and I was named her photographers snapped. After FOR MORE where both brands are based. others he’s pretty mysterious, and so I was successor — and at the same time, I the photo op, she was whisked SCOOPS, SEE This is not the first time the hoping to shed some light,” she explained. became a mother. Ten years later, when away by Kelly Cutrone. “I feel two parties have worked Khelfa, who will tackle the sensitive I left Anne Klein, my husband Stephan like…” one reporter said, WWD.com. together: They partnered on subject of decolonization in her next film [Weiss] and I launched Donna Karan and looking at the sculpture that a runway-only optical frame project, said she didn’t remember how DKNY. Later, Stephan’s illness and death was just fake-altered. “I made to complement Rodarte’s fall many pairs of Louboutins she stored in led me to create Urban Zen.” something like that in kindergarten.” 2014 collection in February. Never her closet, “but I have some which are Jennifer Tung, vice president, editorial “Dirty Hippie,” her art show, will intended to be produced or sold, the truly vintage — without the red sole, from director of nonfiction at Ballantine, and be on display at 11 Mercer Street in positive response from the initial optical his first collection, and I can tell you: I’m Alina Cho, editor-at-large, will edit the Manhattan starting today. frame resulted in the release of today’s keeping those,” she assured. project, which is projected to be ready — KRISTIN TAUER AND ANNA DYSINGER sunglasses. — RACHEL STRUGATZ Alber Elbaz “loved” the film, which next year. features David Lynch, Blake Lively and “Donna Karan has had a singular NEXT STOP, PARIS: The CFDA/Vogue THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM: Committed Alicia Keys among others. He only had influence on women and their Fashion Fund’s “Americans in Paris” as Hillary Rodham Clinton is to trying to one complaint on Tuesday night: “an evolving place in the world,” said program is going into its seventh season protect elephants from ivory overdose of massages,” Ballantine Bantam Dell executive during Paris Fashion Week later this poaching, she wasn’t the which the affable vice president and publisher month. Ten designers will show one who sprang for the toy Lanvin designer treated Libby McGuire. “The story of her their collections at Le 8 Valois tuskers that were given to himself to during a fashion career, interwoven with Sept. 27 to 29. They are Marc Alary, guests at Oscar de la Renta’s recent trip to Bali. her emotional and inner journeys Alejandro Ingelmo, Misha Nonoo, show Tuesday. Each attendee Jean Paul Gaultier as a young woman, wife, mother, Antonio Azzuolo, Giulietta’s Sofia Sizzi, went home with a Wild said he was positively grandmother, spiritual seeker Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Republic stuffed elephant surprised to hear and now philanthropist, Public School, Tim Coppens, and a four-paragraph, save- Louboutin talk about embodies the essence of Ohne Titel’s Flora Gill and the-elephants letter signed his family background creativity, authenticity and Alexa Adams, Tome’s Ramon by Hillary and Chelsea Clinton. and how it influenced purpose.” Martin and Ryan Lobo and But a Clinton Foundation his work, which is a rare — MARC KARIMZADEH George Esquivel of Esquivel spokeswoman wanted to Farida Khelfa and revelation, while Haider Shoes. This season, the set the record straight Christian Louboutin Ackermann searched MILEY’S NEW METIER: It had initiative partnered with Wednesday that neither the DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTO BY clues for his own work. been rumored for several Tumi, which serves as foundation nor Hillary Clinton “paid “Always look to the feet,” is what he took days by “very reliable lead underwriter of for the elephants to be distributed at from the film, he said. “Shoes change the sources” that Miley Cyrus the American designer the fashion show.” In her e-mail, Kamyl posture. This makes me think differently would be sitting front- showcase. — M.K. Bazbaz wrote, “The elephants were about my own work.” row at Jeremy Scott’s selected and generously provided by Mr. Valérie Lemercier, Jean-Paul Goude, Clotilde show on Wednesday. RODARTE’S NEW SPECS: de la Renta.” Courau and Arielle Dombasle were also among Why wouldn’t she? Consumers won’t With the token elephant issue cleared the guests who took in the preview. It’s a match made in have to wait long up, that leads to the much-debated other The film is to air on the Arte channel look-at-me heaven. to buy a pair of elephant in the room — will Hillary on Sept. 27 at 10:30 p.m. as part of a The rumor was Oliver Peoples’ Clinton run? — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG weekend of fashion programs presented semiconfirmed on Monday, latest collaboration by model Nadja Auermann. Also on the when she told V magazine — the sunglasses SURF’S UP: With fashion week nearing schedule are documentaries about that, at Scott’s show, she Miley Cyrus that walked down its close, some weary showgoers are Balmain, Diana Vreeland, top models would be unveiling her “art”: Rodarte’s runway checking the weekend weather forecast and a Berlin fashion school. a series of sculptures — piles, Tuesday. Instead of coming for one last blast to the beach. Nicole — PAULINA SZMYDKE

Lanphear didn’t give too much away about her strategy for the magazine, Guccio Gucci Under House Arrest MEMO PAD simply telling WWD that, “I hope to cultivate and broaden Maxim’s coverage of bankrupt in December 2013, and the MAXIM’S SURPRISE: After weeks of industry style and culture. It’s an exciting time for By LUISA ZARGANI police are accusing Gucci of divert- speculation about who would be named this boldly confident, unapologetic brand.” ing assets from the firm for a total of Maxim magazine’s new editor in chief, Hiring Lanphear, best known for her MILAN — Guccio Gucci has been ac- 800,000 euros. WWD has learned the job will go to Kate high-fashion styling capabilities in the cused of fraudulent bankruptcy and As per the investigations carried Lanphear, who is jumping to the title from women’s designer world, may come as is under house arrest. The Florentine through by prosecutor Christine von her current role as style director at T: a surprise to many. Maxim, after all, entrepreneur is the great-grandson of Borries, Gucci nominated a figurehead The New York Times Style Magazine. was part of the “lad mag” wave of titles Guccio Gucci, who founded the Gucci and transferred assets to a new compa- Lanphear, who was poached by the imported from Britain in the Nineties company in 1921. ny based in Perugia, Italy, which they Times in early 2013, had been style director and, like them, became synonymous The charges are connected to the continued to manage, evading the pay- at Elle magazine for several years, where with publishing women in sexy, bare- handbags venture under the label ment of taxes for 400,000 euros. At the she became a recognizable street style star. it-all editorials under past editors To Be G, first launched in 2008 by end of 2013, the police confiscated as- The move is a major shift by Keith Blanchard, Joe Levy and the recently Guccio Gucci. sets for that same amount. Maxim’s new owner, Sardar Biglari — resigned Dan Bova. But the magazine’s According to the Florence Guardia Before launching To Be G, Gucci the multimillionaire who made his September cover featuring Jessica Alba di Finanza, an Italian police force spent 12 years at the family’s name- fortune with the national Steak ‘n Shake with a more refined feel (albeit one that under the authority of the national sake fashion brand, where he coor- restaurant chain — to make the magazine had her clad in a bikini with a “come minister of economy and finance, the dinated development of product and profitable. The struggling men’s monthly hither” look) is a small hint of what’s to arrest was made as part of the Bags research of hides, until the company was purchased by Biglari, of Biglari come, said a Maxim spokeswoman. Queen operation. Guccio Gucci is was sold to Investcorp in 1989. After Holdings, this past February but has Lanphear’s first official issue will charged with bankruptcy for 800,000 working in the textile industry for continued to see a steady decline. In be March. She will work in conjunction euros, or $1 million at current ex- almost a decade, he went on to help the first half of the year, Maxim had the with Paul Martinez, Maxim’s current change, and fraudulent tax evasion his father, Giorgio, on the GiorgioG biggest dip among men’s lifestyle and creative director, and is expected to begin of 400,000 euros, or $515,828. To Be handbag line. In 2005, the designer fashion magazine newsstand sales, falling building the rest of her team soon. G was controlled by Esperienza Srl, founded Esperienza Srl. The com- 33 percent in single-copy newsstand sales Maxim currently publishes 15 founded by the accused in Scandicci, pany also produced for a number of to 99,632, according to figures from the international editions and is sold in 70 near Florence. The company went international brands. Alliance for Audited Media. countries worldwide. — DAVID YI 640 FIFTH AVENUE 40,000 SF OF RETAIL SPACE AVAILABLE

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Michael Kors: “As they say in ‘South Pacific,’ I’m a cockeyed Michael Kors Narciso Rodriguez optimist,” said Michael Kors, the correct manifestation of his self-assessment not at all tempered by the most unusual of preview hours (by standards other than his own) — 8 a.m. Sunday morning. By the time he turned to discuss his spring collection, he’d already covered the challenges of familiarizing himself with Asian names (in China, is the first name really the last name? Do the Chinese feel they have to “flip it to so it makes sense to Westerners?”) and of familiarizing Asian audiences with his favorite references; he can’t just toss out “Ali MacGraw at Studio 54” and expect knowing nods. Luckily, Kors speaks the increasingly universal language of buoyant, sensible chic, this spring’s mood harkening to a moment of genuine optimism — postwar, when people started to travel again and have fun. “ Yo u think optimistic Fifties and you automatically think Paris and couture,” he said. “You’re not going to find that at Michael Kors. For me, it’s the best of American optimism, and [in fashion] the fact that it was feminine but also rugged and sporty.” Such deliberate calibration can work against Kors on the runway and he’s fine with that; he prefers glamorized reality to theatrics. Ye t sometimes — this time — there’s deception at play. Kors has a sly disrespect for sartorial protocol that allows him to take an elaborately embellished, see-through tulle skirt and make it look like a logical everyday wardrobe choice. Such skirts played into his prevailing silhouette — waist- centric with a full skirt that indeed hints at the Fifties without ever making the trip to retro. The polite transparency recurred as well, wearability achieved when paired with crisp, elongated skirts. Flowers abounded — pristine daisy appliqués on all-white looks; a camellia print on a pajama; big geraniums embroidered on indigo mikado. Kors delivered on the sporty side of his equation with cropped chinos, one pair worn with a shirt and gray cashmere pullover with matching corsage; strong outerwear, Spring 2015 and his grounded footwear. This included a rugged sandal set on a prim, low heel. The style’s name, at least on Sunday morning: the Jesus Kitten.

Narciso Rodriguez: Earthiness, as it’s defined in fashion terms, is a word at odds New Yo r k Coll with Narciso Rodriguez’s aesthetic of resolute precision and minimalist modernity. THERE WERE RETRO-INSPIRED LOOKS, MINIMALIST GLAMOUR AND JUST ENOUGH OVER-THE-TOP FLAMBOYANCE TO KEEP TH Ye t Rodriguez fused those disparate points of view, producing a wonder of a spring collection. “It’s a collage of so always, the collection featured embroideries: the majesty of T-shirts and iridescent tops, of the runway, he showed many things,” the designer said ample black and white and nature captured by Rodriguez’s crocheted dresses, fringed his collection as a gallery backstage. “There was water on color-blocked paneling. It was graceful hands. handbags and bohemian installation, implementing the mood board, and light, and strong and sexy, but with a dresses. his vision in a raw space on great spheres hovering over softness, as Rodriguez worked Anna Sui: Backstage, Anna Sui The standout was a floral top West 36th Street with the water and minerals.” in blush, pink, purple, deep reminisced about the old days and cropped wide-legged pants help of Frederic Dechnik, The strong lines and green and blue. He hinted at of boutiques in London and set featuring a great metallic the brand’s vice president of structure for which Rodriguez the organic with color and New York where one could find crochet fringed vest. The Anna merchandising and marketing. is known went liquid on accessories, such as chunky truly special pieces. She said Sui girl would find many things White walls were painted exquisite tank dresses. Cut like crystal and steel necklaces, her spring collection was “a to love here. with big cobalt blue squares, a swimsuit at the top, with a then escalated the earthiness reaction against the masses, a chair installation displayed sporty plunge of a neckline and with masterful restraint, and everything looking the Reed Krakoff: Art is a passion the season’s handbags, and, harness back, they glided over tracing dresses — some sporty, same.” There was tons of print for Reed Krakoff — he’s a fan, most impressively, a series the body. There were tank tops some dreamy, some womanly mixing and hippie references he’s an impressive collector. of screens showed Steven with similar swimwear cuts and sophisticated — in curving (how could there not be), Perhaps he qualifies as an Sebring’s impossibly sleek and and fluid scuba jackets done in rings of green, bronze, pink, including embroidered denim artist, too, after his spring gorgeous 360-degree photos of black-and-white. Graphic, as black and silver beaded jackets paired with graphic presentation. Opting out the clothes, which could also WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Anna Sui Reed Krakoff Hugo Boss JOHN AQUINO BOSS WOMEN BY ; MITRA ROBERT GIANNONI; SUI BY GIOVANNI BY RODIN BANICA; KORS FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ lections runway.

HINGS INTERESTING. PHOTOS BY RODRIGUEZ AND KRAKOFF

be viewed on several groups of silhouettes in a color scheme silhouettes weighed down the good thing and presumably why that were stark in silhouette models lined up in neat rows. It of cobalt, tan, black and rusty techniques, which felt fresher the Boss brass hired him. If his yet softened with light-gray felt like a proper exhibition. orange, conveyed an industrial- when done light. A white cotton first collection last fall inched geometric patterns. A group Conceptually, Krakoff artisanal tension. The shapes poplin sundress with a color- the brand’s tradition of strict of navy bonded jersey suiting sought to integrate his constant could be filed under luxe blocked square detail was the tailoring and workwear in a with lightly tipped seams was inspirations — architecture, athletic minimalism (add masterpiece of this collection. softer direction, here it got a gracefully cut with movement. design and digital technology enough leather to anything and firm push. Style-driven women with strict — into the show, as opposed it becomes luxury), with color- Hugo Boss: In Jason Wu’s second Wu gave the Boss tenets of corporate dress codes, rejoice. to silo-ing them off into other blocked sleeveless zip-ups and crack at the runway as artistic shirting and suiting their due but Aside from a couple of areas of his business. Krakoff angular wrap skirts. director of Hugo Boss, he shifted the balance of masculine overly boxy leather jacket mentioned that many of the On the high-tech side were seemed to be more comfortable versus feminine in favor of and skirt looks, this was a ideas on view, the 360-degree precise honeycomb jacquards with the house source material the latter. Without sacrificing womanly collection grounded photography in particular, and perforated leather, and, of Teutonic tailoring. But, now, precision, he riffed on the white in practicality but with room will feature in his stores. The to contrast, shirts done in he was confident enough to shirt, opening the show with to live the dream. And for that, collection was reflective of thick woven patterns with inject more fashion and more two short tweed shirtdresses — Wu’s Boss lady had a variety of its surroundings — or was raw trims and macramé tank of his own feminine vision into one sleeveless and collarless, pretty pastel dresses decorated it vice versa? — as sporty dresses. Some of the structured the collection, which was a the other more traditional — in graphic beads. ©2014 EILEEN FISHER INC. ©2014 EILEEN FISHER INC.

CREATEDCREATED IN IN 1984 1984 CREATEDCREATED IN IN 2014 2014

EILEENFISHER.COMEILEENFISHER.COM THEFISHERPROJECT.COMTHEFISHERPROJECT.COM ©2014 EILEEN FISHER INC.

CREATED IN 1984 CREATED IN 2014

EILEENFISHER.COM THEFISHERPROJECT.COM 10 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEBER 11, 2014

Zang Toi Edun Hanley Mellon

SPRING 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Zang Toi: Spring marked Zang Toi’s hair panels in leopardlike prints on dresses. There were looks for city girls, designer tried to capture her independent

25th year in business, so his show, black or white short dresses; on hand- like tuxedo-inspired jumpsuits, gaucho spirit — a smart way to update this appropriately enough, was called “A stitched appliqués on tops, and, more pants paired with a little lace top and a brand’s elegant style. The show opened

Privileged Life: The American Dream.” evidently, as round belt buckles. studded leather biker jacket, while tile- with a series of charming daywear MITRA; Toi is known for dreaming big, and print caftans and embroidered dresses dresses and separates, like a miniskirt in the runway showcased glamorous looks Hanley Mellon: Husband-and-wife team had a luxuriously, beachy vibe. a black-and-white jacquard fabric with ROBERT

from beginning to end. The flamboyance Matthew Mellon and Nicole Hanley matching top, and chic, fitted shift dresses BY ranged from a purple-and-fuchsia color- Mellon looked to Kenya for their first Elizabeth and James: For the presentation made of a precious leather and silk blocked knit dress with a matching presentation, though without the sartorial at Affirmation Arts, Mary-Kate cloth handwoven in Laos. Eveningwear JOHNSON purple robe to red tailored suits. clichés that such inspiration could render Olsen and Ashley Olsen propped had the same fresh, modern vibe, like a BANICA

These were a nice prelude to the real (i.e., earthy tones, bold patterns). six surfboards against a white wall, flowing asymmetric column dress in a AND showstoppers of the evening: the gowns. Instead, they took an abstract signaling the direction they were multicolored basket-weave pattern. RODIN BY “American Starlet” was a black tiered approach for their diverse lineup. For taking with their spring Elizabeth and BIBHU

dress covered in hand-beaded purple instance, they culled the color red from James collection. “A beachier, more Steven Alan: To mark his 20th anniversary, EDUN, orchids. “All American Stripe,” a black- the Masai for a sporty parka, which California vibe” is how Ashley put it, Steven Alan revisited his shirting roots for DELPOZO and-ivory Empire waist strapless, was was teamed with a plaid silk chiffon though these clothes didn’t overtly play spring. He riffed on the look in a variety met with enthusiastic applause befitting shirtdress (a pattern that was informed into surf culture. Instead, they showed of ways, many with the relaxed vibe that CHINSEE; a big anniversary. by Scottish trade in Nairobi) and shorts off their casual-cool proclivities with is Alan’s comfort zone. Shirts were draped GIANNONI;

in the same material. sporty elegance, from the boyishly chic and tied, turned into languid jumpsuits or GEORGE BY

Edun: Edun designer Danielle Sherman A chambray group, including a shirt cotton windowpane shirt shown with rendered as a chic V-neck tuniclike dress. GIOVANNI studied West African and Japanese with slim pants shown with a gold cable- a palm-print midiskirt, to the white Though familiar, the feel was casual with BY textiles and delivered some appealing knit cardigan was also appealing and knit serape top with a crepe skirt. The plenty of commercial appeal. PHOTOS ICB interpretations in her spring collection could be at home both in and out of Africa. latter especially captured an ease and MELLON

— black elongated knit tunics with carefree attitude that revealed the duo’s ICB: “It’s very much inspired by a city girl AND red striped details, an Oxford blue Rachel Zoe: This spring collection is version of California dreaming. who loves the arts,” said Prabal Gurung AQUINO; kimono-style shirt and pants set, and for “the girl who lives and dreams in about his spring collection for ICB. Even JAMES JOHN

terrific layered knits paired with wide a fantasy world, who jet sets around Bibhu Mohapatra: Bibhu Mohapatra looked the runway backdrop — a rainbow of AND cropped pants. the world,” said Rachel Zoe at her to writer and political activist Nancy dripping paint — underscored the theme. BY

“I was also drawn to the circle — a presentation. The line was infused with Cunard as inspiration for his spring There were tweed jackets covered in ALAN

symbol of unity, balance and continuity,” her signature glam with a bohemian collection. But instead of reproducing abstract, hand-drawn prints, and white ELIZABETH AND TOI Sherman explained. It appeared on calf edge, like Mod minis and adorned tweed Cunard’s Jazz Age look literally, the crepe de chine separates with a black ZOE, WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 11 WWD.COM

windowpane pattern. Gurung Rachel Zoe Elizabeth Bibhu Mohapatra also gave his girl plenty of sporty and James separates, like mesh board shorts, trompe l’oeil skirts printed with faux track shorts, and boyish short suits in bright colors.

Betsey Johnson: “Love and marriage,” said Betsey Johnson of her inspiration before her diverse, bridal-themed spring show, which she dubbed “Prenup” (editors were sent packets of rice with their show invites). The show’s opening pair of looks — a white suit worn by SoulCycle’s Stacey Griffith, who walked the runway with a towering model in a feathered dress — was a love song to LGBT marriages. The collection was quintessentially Betsey — at once over-the-top girly, playful, sexy and tacky. Among all the ornate tutus and ruffled taffeta party frocks were some more down-to- earth items, like a strapless white minidress and a pink lace gown with plenty of twirl.

Delpozo: Creative Director Josep Font played with volume, proportion and illusion at Delpozo’s superb spring outing. He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils- Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origamilike panels. He also paid homage to the 19th-century glass creations of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka with a green tulle shirtdress embellished with seashells.

Steven Betsey Delpozo Alan Johnson

FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. ICB 12 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 WWD.COM Intel Unveils Version Kevin Systrom on #NYFW

Of Smart Fashion {Continued from page one} app is launched by Instagram, and you’re adopting it Michael Kors, Burberry and Macy’s. within a day and using it to tell your story. {Continued from page one} Michael Kors was the first campaign to run. I Ceremony. This is something everybody wants to wear in- remember it going so well; we didn’t know what to expect. WWD: Who does it right? dependent of the technology inside.” Somewhere around a third [of our advertising K.S.: I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about this lately. The Intel Edison is a low-cost general-purpose computer comes from fashion and retail brands]. In my The problem that I face is that, as you look at fashion platform that lowers the barriers of entry in the wearables experience, we work with everyone from Ralph Lauren brands adapting [to] Instagram, there are so many. At world and Internet of Things. A preview of Edison-powered to Banana Republic to Victoria’s Secret, Hollister and some place, you’re not sure who does it right versus prototype devices included a 3-D printed interactive gar- Abercrombie & Fitch. There are a handful [of fashion who is experimenting. ment. A mind-controlled dress, called Synapse, powered by brands]; I review every ad before it comes on. Like Thom Browne — they are a supereclectic Edison, was created by Dutch designer Anouk Wipprecht. [We started] working with fashion because their and cool brand. They did this collaboration with @ Intel earlier this year acquired Basis Science, which cre- creative is beautiful and they tend to use Instagram AGuyNamedPatrick [winner of the CFDA’s Fashion ates wearable device technologies for health and wellness already as a platform. Instagrammer of the Year Award]. That developed applications. Basis Science, one of the leaders in health into a unique relationship…they got to know each tracking for wearable devices, manufactures the Basis band WWD: What was the first fashion week that Instagram other. It was a true collaboration. He’s actually going health tracker and accounts for around 7 percent of that was involved in? to be shooting their show this fall and publishing market. A preview of the Basis Peak, the next generation of K.S.: In terms of actual participation, we’ve been going to those images on his feed but also for CFDA’s feed. bands, features continuous heart rate and other sensors for basically every [fashion week] since 2011 — but when I Another example is Stella McCartney. On the fitness and sleep tracking. It’s also lighter and thinner with say we went, it was informally or just generally around personal side, Stella shares things like vegetables improved battery life. Basis Peak will launch in November; an area where it was happening. We have sent people and flowers and signs her posts, but she also does its price has yet to be released. The Basis health tracker from [our] community team. Now things like TBTs [Throwback carbon steel edition is $149 at the Basis online store. we’re so ingrained [in it]. Thursdays] of her parents. She’s In the fourth quarter, Intel will introduce its first software participating in the community, development kit and API software for wearable devices. WWD: How has this evolved? not just the commercial aspect Developers building fitness and wellness applications for iOS K.S.: What we really do now of the venture. The spring and Android will be able to leverage Intel’s heart-rate sens- is proactively reach out and presentation in the garden ing technology, which was used in the recently announced engage with different fashion was a great way of how they SMS Audio BioSport headphones powered by Intel. brands to make sure we’re think about Instagram when Krzanich also unveiled the Analytics for Wearables, or building the right product. [We] they stage an event: [It was A-Wear, a developer program that will accelerate develop- always look for feedback and a] combination of Instagram ment and deployment of new wearable applications with the opportunity to enable new and an event at once, melding data-driven intelligence. Developers of Intel wearables will behavior. While I can’t speak together. It’s not just “Oh, yeah, be able to use the A-Wear program free of charge, he said. to specific examples, I can we do social media”; it’s “Social After bubbling along for several years, the wear- say there’s a team here on the media is part of the fabric of ables sector has hit full boil in the last six weeks as ground, and we have a fashion what we do.” It was an awesome companies and celebrities from Ralph Lauren Corp. vertical community manager. Looks from Thom Browne, night of Instagramming and to Swatch Group to Will.i.am have unveiled wearable who had @aguynamedpatrick attention for the clothes. products, or plans to launch them. The size of the wear- WWD: Can you speak to the role photographing their show. Those are two great ables market is difficult to pinpoint. The NPD Group Instagram plays during this time? examples. [It has to be a] estimates that wearables racked up $475 million in K.S.: Our goal is not to be the collaboration between the sales for the last 12 months, center of attention [but] to be A shot from Refinery29’s community and brand and a based on the two categories it a platform for others to tell #r29countryclub installation. sensitivity not to make Instagram follows — smartwatches and their story most effectively. We tacked on. [You have to] make it full-body activity trackers. provide tools to do that, whether part of the story itself. “I expect the market to it’s Hyperlapse or filters. That’s double in size over the next 12 our job. We support the fashion WWD: What’s been the most months given the interest from industry because we love people successful fashion program to consumers and the number of that can tell their stories visually. date? Whether in engagement companies entering the space,” One of my philosophies or new followers gained? said Ben Arnold, a senior ana- is that … we should not K.S.: We haven’t had a fashion lyst at NPD. “Big venture capi- necessarily be the ones running advertising campaign yet that tal funds are seeing the po- a big fashion-week thing; [we hasn’t gone well. tential for the appeal of these should be] supporting it. I’d [As far as nonadvertising- products and for these tech- rather be the supporting story related campaigns go] Cast Me nologies at some time to be- and let folks tell their own story Marc. [Marc Jacobs turned to come indispensable to people. and not let the attention be on Instagram to cast models for an They’re trying to tap into that.” Instagram, specifically. I think ad campaign.] Credit Suisse IT Hardware we’ve done a good job working analyst Kulbinder Garcha pre- with brands on this. WWD: Right now, Instagram dicted that the market for wear- appears to be the social network able technology will increase WWD: What has your learning of choice for fashion, and it’s a tenfold to as much as $50 billion curve been in fashion? highly lucrative market. How over the next three to five years. K.S.: I’ve always been interested do you keep that? How do you Announcements of wear- in fashion, [but] not from a high- defend your position? able tech partnerships were Synapse, a mind-controlled fashion perspective. I wouldn’t K.S.: There are two things I do everywhere this week, from dress powered by Intel Edison, consider myself a high-fashion to run the company. Fashion is the New York runways to was created by Dutch designer expert as much as an admirer. probably the most important Cupertino, California, where Anouk Wipprecht. My background is in photo vertical we get right. Not only is it Apple’s introduction of its new and design; I love all things just a natural platform for fashion smartwatch reverberated in the fashion community. beautifully crafted and artistic. because of its visual nature, but Diesel Black Gold sent its interpretation of the Where I come from is really a fashion has come to us as well, Samsung Gear S down the runway with a series of acces- position of loving things because saying, “We want to use this to sories that incorporated the smart computer, phone and they are beautiful. Many of the communicate our story.” When A behind the fitness tracker for the wrist. Diesel used its signature brands I’m most interested in you get a marriage of excitement scenes shot from leather and worked in hardware to create objects that are Brunello Cucinelli or Rag from both sides, you have to make Alice + Olivia. were in sync with the attitude of the brand, which this & Bone. Those are the types sure that goes really well. We season was inspired by tough rockabilly heroines. of things I get into. Trust me, I have to make sure we hire the Motorola’s round, flat Moto 360 appeared on the run- [also] learn a lot by attending things like the Met Gala. world’s best and brightest to work on this everyday. way of Rodarte. The smartwatch, which is compatible Karlie Kloss has become a good friend because Personally, I make sure to go to as many relevant with Android phones, can detect heart rate, has voice she’s dating one of the original investors in events that let me get smart about the world of commands, delivers e-mails and texts, has calendar Instagram [Joshua Kushner], and [she not only] fashion — as a tech entrepreneur in Silicon Valley. prompts and gives directions. The makers of the Moto brought us around and introduced me to her good It’s a two-pronged strategy. We go to as many relevant 360 offered to send editors the watch so they could flaunt friends but people she works with, like Oscar de la events [as we can], and the second [prong] is hiring it during fashion week. “The device will pair any smart- Renta. Our worlds are so far apart but so intimately great people who live in the world of fashion and phone running Android 4.3 or higher. Do you need an connected. They’ve forever changed my business, allow us to have an ear to the ground. Android to pair with? Happy to send you one!” they said. and we, hopefully, have changed theirs, as well. The Opening Ceremony spring fashion show was not WWD: How do you fight social-media clutter? without a requisite tech toy. A collaboration with Intel, WWD: Which fashion brands use Instagram in an K.S.: The beautiful thing about Instagram is that MICA, or My Intelligent Communication Accessory, con- innovative way? it’s so easy to consume. I don’t mind if I follow too sists of a pair of snakeskin smart bracelets with semipre- K.S.: Public School did a Hyperlapse behind-the- many people. It keeps my feed really fresh. But what cious stones that send alerts and receive notifications. scenes video, and Coco Rocha did a Hyperlapse I try to do often is find the accounts that I haven’t They were shown on the Opening Ceremony runway. video of the Mango show. These are people who followed yet — through this thing we launched Meanwhile, Rebecca Minkoff, who partnered with Case- are going out of their way to use a new tool that is [that allows the user to suggest similar accounts to Mate, a mobile accessories firm, displayed on her runway virtually untested in the fashion world, and [they follow]. I just started following Margiela, and I got [a two wearable devices, a chain-link studded bracelet that are] finding it easy to incorporate into their story. recommendation to follow] Comme des Garçons, so I alerts users to calls and texts via Bluetooth, and a black We have come so far as a fashion community. It used started following them as well. In some ways, we’re leather bracelet that doubles as a USB charging station. to be, “Do you want to adopt social media?” Now, an “compounding the issue” but it’s what makes it fun. MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS Time for a Change Cody Kondo is headed Apple’s chief executive officer Tim Cook to Trinity as chief could surely benefit from a meeting with our design team. Page MW3 merchandising officer.

September 11, 2014

SPRING SUEDE GRAPHIC Todd Snyder ELEMENTS Public School

MONOCHROMATIC WHITE Perry Ellis MITRA ROBERT BANICA; RODIN PERRY ELLIS BY

FAST TRACK CHINSEE; REID BY GEORGE The overriding aesthetic during New York Fashion Week has been a very active one, dominated by BERMUDA SHORTS basketball-style shorts, graphic elements and varying

Billy Reid shades of white and other neutrals. For more on the AQUINO; PUBLIC JOHN SCHOOL BY key fashion trends of the week, see page MW2. SNYDER PHOTO BY MW2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 Men’s Week

Gant TRENDSETTERS Rugger ▲

Simon Bermuda shorts, monochromatic Miller whites and graphic elements were

some of the key trends for a very Timo dynamic New York Fashion Week. Weiland — ALEX BADIA

Robert ▲ Geller Mark McNairy W.R.K. New Amsterdam FOR MORE TRENDS, SEE

▲ WWD.com/

▲ menswear-news. William Rast MONOCHROMATIC WHITE

Visvim ▲

Orley ▲

Pyer ▲

▲ Moss Hood J. Lindeberg By Air CHINSEE; RAMIREZ SANDY GEORGE BY BY

GRAPHIC ELEMENTS VALVO N.HOOLYWOOD CELESTE; AND JIMI BY RUGGER BROWN MILLER, GIANNONI; MOSS, N.Hoolywood Jack

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Hood BY

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Marc RODIN MCNAIRY, Valvo BY

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Richard RUDD; New SIKI Chai ▲ Amsterdam Baja AND East SCOTT BY ▲ AIR BERMUDA SHORTS PLEASE DON’T... Siki Im BY WEILAND HOOD Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2014 MW3 Craft Atlantic Revamps for Fall Kondo to Join Trinity CRAFT ATLANTIC, a contemporary sports- vest and $780 for a mackintosh raincoat. wear collection designed for the travel- To introduce the label to potential cus- ing man, is relaunching for fall with a new tomers, the company has taken 900 square designer and a planned store opening in feet at Jane and Greenwich streets for its Greenwich Village. first store. The space, which is expected As Chief Merchant Luis Fernandez, cofounder and former to open later this month, will be designed creative director of Number:Lab, has taken like an “airport travel lounge,” Fernandez by JEAN E. PALMIERI thinker. There are not that many American re- the design reins from Victorinox veteran said. In addition to the men’s apparel, tailers who run global companies and this is Pierre-Henri Mattout. He joined the brand the shop will offer apothecary grooming IT DIDN’T TAKE Richard Cohen long to an opportunity for Cody and I to prove to the in January, about 18 months products from Truefitt make his first big splash at Trinity Ltd. world that American-trained executives can after leaving Number:Lab. Looks & Hill, Imperial, Recipe The newly named chief executive officer succeed on a global level,” added Cohen. Fernandez teamed with from the for Men and others, along of the Hong Kong-based men’s wear retail- Reached at his office at Saks, Kondo said Craft Atlantic founder Pierre collection. with sunglasses from er revealed exclusively to WWD that Cody he’s eager to get back into the men’s business Mordacq to “polish and re- Italia Independent, bags Kondo will join the company at the end of the and hone his international skills. “It’ll be tool” the collection, he said. from Porter and Libero month as its new chief merchandising officer. good to get back to men’s wear,” he said. “And “This is the new iteration.” Ferrero and candles from Kondo, who will leave Saks Fifth Avenue this is an exciting proposition.” Mordacq, who is a self- Calming Park. — J.E.P. on Friday as senior vice president and general He said he has visited Trinity’s Asian of- described “business guy,” merchandise manager of women’s accessories, fices a couple of times to meet with Li & Fung had produced Craft Atlantic has had a long career in the men’s wear busi- chief William Fung and others, and sees a big for two seasons, but the ness. Kondo has been with Saks for the past 14 “upside opportunity” to grow Trinity’s men’s brand did not gain traction. years and was gmm of men’s before being named wear brands. “They all have a history and a rich However, he opted to give it to the women’s accessories legacy and I’ll work with the another shot, with Hernandez post seven years ago. Before different creative directors overseeing the design. joining Saks, he was senior to bring them forward to the For fall, the line will vice president of retail stores 21st century.” Simon Spurr be sold only in the Craft at the then-Ralph Lauren, serves as creative director Atlantic store, but for spring, and also served as men’s for Kent & Curwen and Jason it will be opened up to high- gmm at Nordstrom and gen- Basmajian holds the same er-end department and spe- eral manager of Nordstrom’s post at Gieves & Hawkes. cialty stores, Fernandez said. Northeast region. Kondo said he and his Fernandez described the “He’s going to be the wife — now “empty nesters” line as “tailored and pol- chief merchandising officer — will relocate to Hong Kong. ished but with functionality for all three brands,” Cohen “My wife’s a good sport,” he embedded in it.” Key pieces said, “and will oversee all said with a laugh. “But if in the “compact” offering in- the buying, merchandising there’s a time to do it, it’s right clude enzyme-washed T-shirts that he called and visual merchandising now. I’m excited to be part of “polished yet comfortable”; a merino wool for our 450 stores in China.” the Trinity team and work in

and cotton sweatshirt; dressy fleece outer- Kondo will also oversee JOHN AQUINO such an exciting part of the Cody wear with technical details such as nylon Trinity’s 11 stores in the U.K., world. It’s a good thing.” Kondo side panels; cotton-linen piqué polos, and one in Paris and one in New Kondo will be joining a stretch-cotton sport coat. A nylon parka York City. Trinity, which is PHOTO BY Trinity at a time when the folds into a packable pouch and a light- part of the privately held Fung Group, owns the company is working through some issues weight short raincoat in cotton is waterproof Kent & Curwen, Cerruti and Gieves & Hawkes with excess inventory in its stores and belt- and breathable. Retail price points range brands. It also holds long-term licenses for tightening with its customers. from $95 for T-shirts to $795 for a technical D’Urban and Intermezzo in Greater China. Last month, Trinity reported a 47.3 per- “I’ve known Cody for 25 years and we cent drop in net profits in the first half as the get along really well,” Cohen said. The ongoing economic slowdown in China took Man of London-born Cohen was president and ceo its toll. In the period, the company reported of Ermenegildo Zegna North America for 16 net profits of 79 million Hong Kong dollars, THE WEEK TIM COOK: D years and has also been president and ceo of or $10.2 million. Trinity said that more than Robert Talbott and had a short, turbulent stint 90 percent of the profit drop was due to the at St. John. Before joining Trinity, he served as decline in revenue and a swing in unrealized He should go for a senior vice president of business development foreign exchange gains and losses. Revenues chunkier black frame Unless he has tons of at Saks. “[Kondo] knows the men’s business re- declined 5.9 percent to 1.26 billion Hong for his eyewear. It would white chest hair, lose ally well, has a great taste level and is a global Kong dollars, or $162.5 million. add some character and the black layered T. help make him look less Or keep the T and lose washed out. the shirt.

It’s such a beat-up old shirt and the wrinkles We love the watch. are so exaggerated, it’s We assume it’s a almost comical. He needs prototype of the Apple For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. to throw the shirt away — Watch? The white forever — and buy a well- wristband is very fitted blazer. Chanel. Spaces The pants are an extension of the terrible COMMERCIAL shirt — they also need to REAL ESTATE FashionFlow Apparel ERP Systems MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED be thrown away forever. (ERP, MRP, PLM, AR, EDI, Mobile) Current reps make $100k+. Our He’s thin enough, he can Cloud-Based All In One Solutions fashion tech and home products sell in Custom Setup & Integration Available 7000+stores. If you sell to accessory buy a pair of flattering The sleek Nike www.fashion-flow.com 212-244-4020 buyers, email: [email protected]. sneakers are navy khakis anywhere. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, trendy and cool PRODUCTIONS 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Full service shop to the trade. and match the Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 watch perfectly — Menswear Showrooms D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 but nothing else. Xanadu furs Fur alterations & Remodeling SoHo Event/Pop-Up/Showroom Space trimmings. Please visit room 406 at for short-term or long-term 208 W 29th St. 212 465 0580. Many locations available! 700 - 8,500 [email protected] Square Feet! Call John Pasquale: (212) 420-9435 Ext 101 or E-mail: The chief executive officer of Apple Inc. looks like [email protected] he’s been sleeping in his clothes since the company Women’s specialty store liquidation. started designing the iPhone 6. For a firm so obsessed 4000+ pieces. All categories. Winter-Summer. Mostly French import ready-to-wear. with sleek design, its top executive should dress Email [email protected] the part — the dot-com geek look is over. And the or call (646)732-4033. late Steve Jobs at least had a look, with the black JUSTIN SULLIVAN/GETTY IMAGES turtleneck and high-waisted mom jeans. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] PHOTO BY WWD CoverWrap_Valentino FW2014_Final.indd 5 04/08/14 11:15 WWD CoverWrap_Valentino FW2014_Final.indd 2-3 04/08/14 11:12 NEW STORE - 693 FIFTH AVENUE - NEW YORK

WWD CoverWrap_Valentino FW2014_Final.indd 4 04/08/14 11:14