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Wagon Tracks Volume 10 Issue 4 Tracks Volume 10, Issue 4 (August Article 1 1996)

1996 Wagon Tracks. Volume 10, Issue 4 (August, 1996) Santa Fe Trail Association

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1 VOLUME 10 AUGUST 1996 NUMBER 4 11\! .~ I VICE-PRESIDENT MIKE SFTSikETREKSEPT15+0cmjU • OLSEN RESIGNS ::t:::;:SiAadA§tii~;iN~/t MICHAEL Olsen, Las Vegas, NM, :iii;:'~RNgg;QqT?§"'i:::ilil:I::::i::: I has resigned as SFTA vice-presi­ dent for reasons explained below. He is the third elected vice-preSi­ 1~\IJlI~~!IIIJli dent in a row who has been com­ pelled to do so because of other NEW DAR MARKER AT , obligations. This is an unfortunate . ; tradition for SFTA. RALPH'S RUTS The Daughters of the American i :: I The governing board will select a : replacement soon to complete the Revolution continue to mark the term. Ithas beenan unwritten rule Santa Fe Trail. The newest DAR of SFTA since it was founded, and marker, to observe the 175th anni­ technically the revised bylaws do versary, was recently setat Ralph's I speciiY, thatthevice-presidentand Ruts on the Ralph Hathaway farm I I the president shall not be from the west ofChase, KS. A marker which same state. had been moved from another lo­ We regret the necessity of Dr. Ol­ cation to Ralph's Ruts has been sen's decision and wish him well. returned to its original site. His explanation follows: That monument, which had been VanAnn Moore, Belen, NM, has pre­ at Ralph's Ruts for a number of sented her outstanding portrayal of Su­ Dear Friends of the Santa Fe Trail, years, had been moved at leastfour san Shelby Magoffin on the Santa Fe It is with regret that I resigned in June times before being returned to its Trail In 1846 to many 175th anniversary as vice-president of the SFTA. As I initial spot, six mires west ofChase celebrations along the Trail from Mis­ explained in my letter of resignation to and one mile north. It was reset souri to Santa Fe. This photograph was President Ross Marshall, I do not ac­ there on a concrete base in June. taken during her recent program at Fort cept responsibilities lightly and always The new marker at Ralph's Ruts Union National Monument Photograph anticipate carrying them out to the best is the 97th DAR marker in Kansas by Frank Torres. of my abilities. This time unforeseen and the ninth in Rice County. It developments intervened. With the re­ will be dedicated on September 18. 175th ANNIVERSARY cent death of my father and changing Hathaway, an SFTA ambassador, professional circumstances I just could by Harry C. Myers feels specially honored, stating, "I not devote the time necessary to do a am grateful to the Kansas DAR for (Myers is chairman oj the 175th good job. Also, the organization is tak­ consideringRalph's Ruts worthy of anniversary committee.) ing on a new direction which places this new marker." Most Trail en­ A wonderful job has been accom­ increased demands of time and re­ thusiasts will agree that a better plished by all in the planning and sources on the officers and board so location could not have been found carrying out of anniversary activi­ that I would be even less able to serve for the 175th anniversary marker. ties, and more are stilltocome. The adequately in the future. In Trail terms \. :::::x- -~ - i 42 Days Alongthe Trail. sponsored I am not dropping out ofthe wagon train but my outfit is falling back a bit in the by the Kansas State Historical So­ , .•<­ line of march. v ciety and many local organizations .... : ,",11>- FE r" (including SFTA chapters), was a Mike Olsen .;~~.. q'''''~ remarkable success. An expected article about that DIRECTOR LEROY LEDOUX 1 ,~IQ~e -lQ.72 .. REPLACED BY FAYE GAINES ..~.*}~~ -.- "?""-'~ ~ i series of programs from coordina­ I. tor Sharon Haun was not received LEROY LeDoux, Wagon Mound, " intime for this issue, but there are NM, resigned his office as SFTA references to many of the gather­ director from New Mexico. He was ings in chapter reports and other unable to devote the time neces­ articles. There have also been and sary to fulfill the obligations of the

will be more celebrations in all the position. The SFTA board elected .,-, ...,...".,. Trail states. Faye Gaines, New Mexico Point of , Everyone along the Trail is en­ Rocks, to fill the vacancy. We wish . . couraged to think nowabout doing LeDoux well and welcome Gaines ;ffiq,~;r~~~·, -.,.'ft~:-·~ _."~~ ' ...... --. ''''''~'''.'' ","4~' r''''- ""t ~ '" ". ~""-'-';;"";"'~L..>lltl\uiUi!:t-,-_ ".~: ","'~,' (continued on page 6) to the governing board. \. 0 j ,"l j.

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PRESIDENT'S COLUMN the Santa Fe Trail, in cooperation have begun some educational pro­ with the National Park Service and jects, which is one ofour core pur­ As I write this in July, it is abun­ others poses. Quite predictably, our low dantly clear why William Becknell 9. Publicize the Trail and SFTA revenues just won't cover it all. waited until September to set out and its activities LastSeptember I inherited a bud­ on the Santa Fe Trail 175 years 10. Represent the Santa Fe Trail get which was grossly out of bal­ ago. It's hot, the sun is beating as one of the many historical and ance. The 1996bUdget was finally down mercilessly, and the heat in­ recreational trails. approved this March with a small dex is over 110. B. Renewed the existingfive-year projected shortfall. It took consid­ On to more pleasant things, like memorandum of understanding erable time and effort toget itdown the 175th anniversary celebration. with the NPS. This is a mUlti-page to that level, since it had initially In early June the series of camp cooperative agreement to work to­ showed an overrun of about 50% meetings coordinated by the Kan­ gether to further the interests of as we tried to give attention to the sas State Historical Society, under the Trail. the direction of Sharon Haun, be­ gan here in the Kansas City area. C. Amended our marker policy to allow applications to the marker Headquarters of the Santa Fe Trail Asso­ Just this past week Helen Brown, ciation are located at the office ofSecre­ president of the Cimarron Cutoff fund for route markers as well as interpretive signs. tary-Treasurer Ruth Olson Peters, Santa Chapter, told me their meetings in FeTrail Center, RR 3, Lamed KS67550; the Elkhart area were compfeted D. Approved a design submitted telephone (316) 285-2054, FAX (316) and were very successful, which by Bill Chalfant's marker commit­ 285-7491. completed this forty-two night se­ tee for an 18 x 24 marker which ries along the Trail. may be placed at Trail crossings of Thousands of people turned out roadsand streets. Itwas submitted WAGON TRACKS is the official publication by the End ofthe TrailChapter and of the Santa Fe Trail Association, a non-profit for these events as well as others organization incorporated under the laws of that are being held all along the consists of a 9" or 12" NPS SFNHT the State of Colorado. Leiters and anicles are logo above the word "XING." welcome, bUllhey become the propeny ofwr Trail. This is a lot of new public and may be edited or abridged at the editor's awareness that is being generated E. Invited the Fort Larned His­ discretion. All rights reserved Inquiries can for the Trail which will have a last­ torical Societyto submit a proposal be directed to the appropriate address below. ing effect. SFTA needs to feel very for our annual meeting in even­ Annual subscriptions are obtained through proud for haVing initiated this an­ numbered years to be held in con­ membership in the Association, whose dues junction with their biennial ren­ are fixed per calendar year. Checks should be niversary effort! made payable to the Santa Fe Trail Associa­ As usual, Jana and I enjoyed the dezvous at the Santa Fe Trail Cen­ tion and sent to the secretary-treasurer. Santa Fe Trail Center Rendezvous ter in Larned. Membership Categories recently-the papers and other ac­ F. Elected Faye Gaines as a new Benefactor $1,000 tivities during the three-day event. director from New Mexico to re­ Patron $100/year Before the rendezvous officially be­ place LeRoy LeDoux who had re­ Institutional S25/year signed. Family $20/year gan the SFTA governing board met Individual Sl5/year on May 30 for an all-day meeting. In addition a proposed dues in­ Editor: Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, Woodston, The following are a few of the ac­ crease was discussed for action at KS 67675 (913) 994-6253 tions taken. our next meeting on October 26. A President: Ross Marshall, 6624 Craig Rd, A. The 2nd Century Task Force, specific proposal will be submitted Merriam, KS 66202 (913) 262-6445 by the membership committee at chaired by Mike Olsen, presented Vice-President: vacant an updated list ofgoals for SFTA as that time. The justification for an increase in dues follows. Secretary-Trea.~urer: Ruth Olson Peters, we seek to carry out the basic pur­ Santa Fe Trail Center, RR 3, Lamed, KS poses oftheorganization which are SFTA's annual revenues the last 67550 (316) 285_2054 to preserve, protect, educate, and three years have averaged about 1995 Symposium Coordinators: David promote public awareness of the $23,000, about $18 per member, Hutchison, HCR I Box 35, Boise City, OK Santa Fe Trail. The following is the which is astonishingly low. Other 73933 (405)426-2457 trails organizations,such as Lewis Dan Sharp, HCR 1 Box 83, Boise City, OK fmallist as approved by the Board: 73933 (405) 426-2710 1. Hold annual meetings of the and Clark or OCTA, have revenues in the $60 or $80 range. Even so, Publicity Coordinator: Michael E. Pitel, Association New MexicoDept ofTourism, PO Box 20003, we have survived because our ex­ Santa Fe NM 87503 (505) 827-7400 2. Encourage and support SFTA penses have been minimal, thanks chapters to Leo and Bonita Oliva who have Directors: 3. Publish regularly a newsletter essentially donated their services William Y. Chalfant, Kansas and other material over the years to produce Wagon Virginia Lee Fisher, Missouri 4. Encourage and sponsor schol­ Tracks, to theSanta Fe Trail Center Pauline Fowler, Missouri arship and research at Larned, and also, frankly, be­ Faye Gaines, New Mexico cause SFTA's national agenda has David Hutchison, Oklahoma 5. Work with schools and teach­ been less aggressive than what is ers Pat O'Brien, Colorado needed. 6. Work with public and private, Now we are beginning to pay the Phil Petersen, Colorado local, state, and federal entities Olivas appropriately, chapters are Joy Poole, At Large 7. Work with the National Park getting help and leadership they Margaret Sears, New Mexico Servicethrough a designated coop­ have wanted to map and mark the Dave Webb, At Large erative agreement Trail, headquarters expenses have Deanne Wright, Kansas 8. Promote and assist in mapping increased, the 175th anniversary Tim Zwink, Oklahoma and marking the historic routes of has required over $3,000, and we

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above demands. year and even show a surplus. I saving the crumbling remains of We are developing a 1997 budget have heard of historical organiza­ FortLaramie, Wyoming, whichwas (which will be under consideration tions that operated too close to in­ added to the NPS in 1938 and re­ at our next meeting on October 26) solvency and paid for it. Instead of stored. He was also involved in the which, among other things, must expending the savings account, we addition ofFort Larned NHS to the include $3,000 for another print­ need to build it up in the form of NPS. ing of the membership brochures, an endowment, so that SFTA will In 1982 Mattes was a co-founder the anticipated 1997 symposium be healthy long-term. of the Oregon-California Trails As­ expenses, and $2,000 to pay for Our revenue shortfall is not un­ sociation, nowa 2,600-memberor­ • 7.50 USGS Quad maps (which are solvable, but we must take some ~anization. He was present at the currently on loan to us). decisive actions as soon as possi­ founding of the Santa Fe Trail As­ ble. sociation in 1986. In addition there is a need to • address the issue ofhavingat least It was with regret that I recently He wrote extensively on trails, a part-time employee; some have received the resignation of Mike producing several publications for suggested we need to have an ex­ Olsen as our vice-president. His the NPS, 50 articles for various father recently passed away and historicalquarterlies, and over 200 ecutive director. The need isclearly o there. Although I enjoy the chal­ this situation as well as some other book reviews. His major books in- lenge of being your preSident, if I personal demands have convinced clude Colter's Hell and Jackson's also had a full-timejob there would Mike he be unable to devote the Hole, Indians, Infants, and l'!fan­ not be enough time to do what is proper time to the job. I have ap­ try, Great Platte River Road, and, required for the organization. I am preciated Mike's help and l~der­ Platte River Road Narratives. essentially acting as an executive ship these past months and hewill Mattes was frequently sought by be missed. A successor will heed to director as we try to get the or~ani­ researchers from around the world > zation operating as it should be, be found as soon ~s possible. for his expertise on the trails. He and so far this year I have devoted The most heartwarming thing was also the recipient ofnumerous several hundred hours to the job. about the Santa Fe· Trail Associa­ awards, including the Silver Spur Finding the next president may tion is thatyo,u 8,11 really do. love the Award from the Western Writers of be difficult unless some additional Trail. On behalfofyour officers and America and a Distinguished Serv­ directors, we sincerely want to be ice Award from the U.S. Depart­ headquarters support is found. Of ~o ,theneed~ course, there is one other alterna­ responsive that you ment of the Interior. tive-let the organization's needs have expressed and to the needs of He is survived by his wife, Clare, and many of the Trail needs go the Trail. If poosibl'e, we 'would like and three sons. Gregory Franzwa unaddressed. However our chap­ to have you attend the, next board declared, "We have lost a giant. He ters have made it known they really meeting at Larm;d on October 26. will not be easy to replace." . -Ross Marshall would like to have more sources . . .. and leadership from the board and SFTA 10TH ANNIVERSARY J DONALD BERG I officers, not less. SINCE SFTA is 10 years old in Donald William Berg, 75, died at A membership dues increase is 1996, President Ross Marshall has his home in Wootton, CO, July 26. only one of several actions that appointed Adrian Bustamante to He was born in Wootton October mustbe taken to improve our reve­ chair a committee to commemo­ 23, 1920. He served in the Armed nue problems. It will have been rate the first decade ofthe Associa­ Forces during World War II and over three years since dues have tion at the 1997 symposium. Ruth then returned home to Wootton to been increased and, even with an Olson Peters and Marc Simmons work the ranch on the north side increase, membership will remain have been designated to co-chair a ofRaton Pass with his wife Kather­ one of the best values available. committee to preparea written his­ ine. The follOWing tribute was writ­ Most historical organizations, with tory of the organization. Simmons ten by Harry C. Myers. a quality publication like Wagon will write the text to be published Don was very much involved in Tracks, are $30 to $40 peryearand in time for the 1997 symposium. the Santa Fe Trail and the SFTA. increasing. He was a member of Bent's Fort Even with a dues increase, reve­ I MERRILL J. MATTES I and Corazon chapters. Don was a nues will not keep pace in the fu­ member of the SFNHT Advisory ture. We must fmd other sources by John Mark Lambertson Council from its beginning and at­ of revenue. We need to start mak­ Merrill J. Mattes, leadingauthor­ tended all the meetings. Don, and ing a net profit from our annual ity on the Oregon-, his father before him, preserved meetings for instance. We have a died May 5, 1996, in Littleton, CO. the ranch of Richens Lacy "Uncle revenue task force which is looking He was 85. Dick" Wootton, famous mountain into all the possibilities. I have no Mattes's career began in 1935 as man and keeper of the toll road doubt that when the needs are pro­ a park ranger at Yellowstone Na­ over Raton Pass. perly presented, our membership tional Park. He was the frrst super­ Some might haveconsidered Don r will be responsive. The preserva­ intendent at Scott's Bluff National gruff and unfriendly but a short tion and protection ofthe Santa Fe Monument in Nebraska, where he five minutes with him would have Trail is worth it. became enamored with the Ore­ given a completely different pic­ It is true that we have built up a gon-California Trail. ture. The hospitality of Don and savings account, but we are al­ He continued with the National Katherine is famous for those for­ ready drawing it down and will un­ Park Service in a variety of posi­ tunate enough to visit the Wootton doubtedly do so again in 1997. tions and locations as a historian Ranch. Ever knowledgeable, Don This is not wise fmancial manage­ and preservationist until his retire­ welcomed the opportunity to share ment. We must pay our way each ment in 1975. He is credited with his love of history and the land

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with those who were truly inter­ 1996 BIKE TREK able choral presentation offavorite ested. It is no secret that Don did western songs and dance. WILLARD Chilcott announced the not suffer fools gladly, but those Record's Rental loaned a power who made an effort themselves to 7th annual Santa Fe Trail Bicycle Trek will depart Santa Fe on Sept. generator. The Raton Chamber of learn, were treated grandly by him. Commerce provided photocopiesof Don was a leader in the commu­ 15 and arrive in New Franklin on Oct. 4. SFTA members along the descriptive literature, and the visi­ nity, servingas a board member for tors' center answered many inquir­ several institutions. His expertise way are encouraged to watch for, visit with, and encourage the rid­ ies. The participants will long re­ and advice waswidely sought. Don member their Raton stop on the gave ofit freely in an unrusned and ers. The 1996 itinerary follows: Sept. 15 Santa Fe to Las Vegas Santa Fe Trail, thanks to the help calm manner. His presence in a of the community. room always gave a feeling of solid Sept. 16 Las Vegas to Wagon Mound stability and you could count on Sept. 17 Wagon Mound to Cimarron HINCHEY DIARY TESTS him for good advice. Sept. 18 Cimarron to Trinidad Sept. 19 Rest day in Trinidad PITMAN SKILLS Don was rich in the things in life Sept. 20 Trinidad to La Junta that count: a wonderful family, a THE William Hinchey diary, part Sept. 21 La Junta to Lamar two ofwhich appears in this issue, beautiful place to live, and many Sept. 22 Lamar to Lakin good friends. The Santa Fe Trail tested the translating skills of four Sept. 23 Lakin to Dodge City womenwhowere trained inPitman and all those associated with it Sept. 24 Rest day in Dodge City mourn his passing. shorthand. Although most of Sept. 25 Dodge City to Lamed Hinchey's 1854 diary of his trip Sept. 26 Larned to Sterling over the Santa Fe Trail had been I FLOYD SOUDERS , Sept. 27 Sterling to Hillsboro transcribed by his son in the Floyd Souders, Cheney, KS, died Sept. 28 Hillsboro to Council Grove 1950s. one part of the record in April 21, 1996, at the age of90. He Sept. 29 Rest day in Council Grove Pitman shorthand was overlooked. and his wife, Norma, were charter Sept. 30 Council Grove to Baldwin City Anna Belle Cartwright, who ed­ members ofSFTA. He was a news­ Oct. 1 Baldwin City to Independence ited the diary for publication, ori~i­ paper editor and publisher and a Oct. 2 Independence to Lexington nally thought a large portion oftne former president of the Kansas Oct. 3 Lexington to Arrow Rock record. covering the trip from the State Historical Society. The Soud­ Oct. 4 Arrow Rock to New Franklin Missouri border to Las Vegas, New ers created a large historical mu­ RATON17~hPROGRAM Mexico, was missing. She was seum on their property near Ch­ elated to discover the little book eney, including a frontier town and by Nancy Robertson containin~ Hinchey's shorthand farm with an outstanding collec­ RATON, NM, provided a wonderful account ofthe trip from the Cimar­ tionofartifacts carefullydisplayed. series of events as part of the auto ron River to Las Vegas, leaVing only Floyd Souders was a patron ofhis­ tour of the Mountain Route. Fol­ a gap ofapproximately three weeks toric preservation. He is missed by lOWing Willard Louden's introduc­ in the trip (from the Missouri bor­ family and countless friends. tion in Trinidad, CO, 75 visitors der to the Cimarron). drove over Cimarron Pass and Toll The problem. however. was to FORT UNION PROGRAM Gate Canyon to Capulin Volcano. find someone who could transcribe FORT Union's 1996 "Cultural En­ Dick Cline gave a presentation of Pitman. She found four women. all counters on the Santa Fe Trail," Charles Goodnight. with British backgrounds, who July 20-21, offered excellent pro­ Eric Honeyfield arranged for the worked on the project. Alice Gunn grams for the 175th anniversary. opening of the gate on the Old Ra­ learned Pitman in high school at Speakers and demonstrators high­ ton Pass. John Van Sweden and Enfield, England. Millicent Twy­ lighted various cultures repre­ the V-7 Ranch welcomed 20 in­ man was trained in high school at sented on the Trail. trepid explorers who forded the Ca­ Wynberg. near Cape Town, South nadian River to visit the Clifton Mrica. June Roth studied Pitman Lakota historian Joseph Mar­ House site. Don Stephens, Howard at Seddon MemorialTechnical Col­ shall 1Il gave an eloquent talk Wilcox, and Mel Campbellprovided lege in Auckland, New Zealand. about the influences and conse­ a black powder demonstration at Her daughter, Merilyn McGhee. quences ofwestward expansion on the NRA Whittington Center. studied Pitman at Auckland Busi­ the Plains Indians. Historian Ward Bob Dye, Essie and Ken Gordon, ness College. Today all four reside Allen Minge gave an insightful talk in the Independence area. All had about Governor Manuel Armijo, and Greg Romero of the Sugarite Canyon State Park prOVided fire­ kept up with or used Pitman in which was more sympathetic than their professions. most general perceptions of the wood and many comforts for the last Mexican governor. evening pro~ram. The Raton His­ The transcription of the diary pano Chamoer of Commerce, un­ presented a major challenge to Performances were presented by der Rita Candelario Martinez and these experts, however, because VanAnn Moore, portraying Susan Joan MacNeish, arranged for Lon­ Hinchey was not highly skilled in Magoffrn, and Deborah Blanche as nie Hands, story teller, the St. Pitman, there were specks on the Marion Sloan Russell. There were Joseph's choir, Margaret Cande­ pages which confused the transla­ living-historyprogramsaboutmili­ lario, and Josh Martinez with po­ tion of vowels, and the pages had tary life. ems and stories, and the wrapup faded which made it difficult to The visiting publicwas offered an dance was provided by Pete Ta­ distingUish the light and heavy opportunity to see the richness rufelli, fiddler, and Bob Jeffryes markings critical to the Pitman and diversity of the various cul­ and David Segura. guitar. Sue method (some entries were almost tures who made history on the Martin. director of the Raton Cho­ illegible). Nevertheless, after many Santa Fe Trail. ral Society, put on a most enjoy- hours ofpouringover thediary and

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comparing notes, these deter­ tique quilts were also displayed at mined spedalists completed the Kaw Mi~sion. Included was the transcription in time for inclusion "Cress Friendship Quilt" made by in this issue ofWT. Esther Cress, the grandmother of A feature article about the tran­ Heart of the Flint Hills President scribers and Hinchey's diary ap­ Don Cress. Mter the William Cress peared in the Kansas City Star on family came to Council Grove from June 10, 1996. These four women Ohio in 1883, the Ohio friends and who possess a rare skill deserve neighbors made the blocks and sent them to Esther Cress in 1886. • special thanks for making it possi­ I ble to present this portion of Shequilted the blocks with clasped Hinchey's diary. The diary and hands of friendship in the center. Hinchey's sketches enrich the his­ • tory of the Santa Fe Trail. COUNCilGROVE FESTIVAL SEPT 20-21 TRAIL QUILT CONTEST by Deanne Wright First Prize: "On the Road to Santa Fe" WAGON trains once again will roll by Joan Butts. along the old Santa Fe Trail and (Deanne Wright is a member ojthe cross the Neosho River into Coun­ SFTA board oj directors and cil Grove during a spectacular director oj the Kaw Mission State multimedia pageant, "Voices ofthe Historic Site in Council Grove, KS. Wind People." Presented Septem­ The accompanying photos were I ber 20 and 21 in an old riverbed r prOVided by Helen Ericson, Em­ , , outdoor amphitheater, the pag­ poria, KS.) , eant features the history of the wall quilt contest to celebrate I' Kaw Indians, the Santa Fe Trail, A I· and early-day Council Grove. The the 175th anniversary ofthe open­ I performances are part of Council ing of the Trail was sponsored by i the Emporia Regional Quilters Grove's celebration of the 175th Guild and Heart of the Flint Hills anniversary. Chapter. The contest was organ­ Council Grove is documented as ized by Helen Ericson, Emporia, the ~reat rendezvous point on the KS, and SherryCook, Lake Kahola, Trail where westbound and Sharon Haun, Council Grove, gathered from Independence, served as judges. Winning entries Westport, Fort Leavenworth, and were displayed at the Kaw Mission other points to organize into cara­ State Historic Site in Council vans before proceeding to New Grove. Sandra Chapman and Al­ Mexico. The state of Kansas is fred Ericson, Emporia, assisted in named for the Kansa or Kaw Indi­ displaying the quilts. ans. The Kaw Nation endorses the Joan Butts, Emporia, who retired pageant and will provide actors, this year as elementary school li­ dancers, and a narrator to portray brarian in Council Grove, was Kaw characters. The narrator is awarded first prize for "On the Luther Pepper, great-grandson of Road to Santa Fe." Butts incorpo­ AI-Le-Ga-Wa-Ho, head chiefof the rated quilt blocks in the border Kansa tribe from 1867 to 1883. that represent the different states The drama features wagon crossed by the Trailand featured a trains, a pack train, a set of early covered-wagon pattern at each Council Grove, a movie screen corner. The center panel is a map I shOWing historical photos and art­ I' of the trade route. I work, and a series of reenacted Mary Ann Conn Davis, Green scenes depicting historical events. Mountain Falls, CO, received sec­ 1_--"- The narration shifts between AI­ ond prize for "Trade Goods," which Second Prize: ''Trade Goods" by Mary Le-Ga-Wa-Ho and Seth Hays, a honors the Conn Stone Store in Ann Conn Davis. founder of Council Grove, each in­ Council Grove. Davis is the great­ terpreting the mid-1880s from his granddaughterofMalcolm Conn. A own cultural perspective. panelattached to a reproductionof features American Indian designs. At high noon on September 21 an a Navajo wedding blanket depicts Karla French, Ulysses, KS, all horse-drawn vehicle parade a mule-drawn wagon crossing the earned honorable mention for "Ci­ takes place on Main Street, the Trail. The blanket, a rare example marron Oasis: Wagonbed Sp­ actual route of the Santa Fe Trail. of Indian textile artistry, belonged rings," featuring a central, origi­ The parade is part of the Santa Fe to Malcolm Conn. nal-design block that is bordered Trail Arts Festival. Paula Boyea, Horton, KS, was by four blocks named "The Santa Ticket information for the pag­ presented third prize for "Through Fe Trail." The "Flying Geese" de­ eant is available from the Council the Clouds of Time," showing an sign surrounds the piece. Inspira­ Grove Conventionand Visitors Bu­ ox-drawn trade wagon. The shape tion for this creation was Wagon­ reau, (800) 732-9211. Reserva­ ofthe wall quilt was inspired by an bed Springs near Ulysses. tions are recommended for the Indian painting, and the quilting Other contest entries and an- pageant.

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175th ANNIVERSARY WAGON TRAIN 1996 (continued from page 1) by Anne Carter and Carli Dekat the same or sometWng similar for (Carter and Dekat accompanied next year. The 175th anniversary the 1996 Trail ride sponsored by celebration will not end until the Heart of the Flint Hills Chapter. close of the 1997 Symposium. Carter, Centerview, MO, is presi­ ·The 175th anniversary Trail tour dent of the Missouri River Out­ in July, sponsored by the Smith­ fitters Chapter. She rode the Trall sonian Associates and led by Leo several years ago and wrote ofthe Oliva, traced the route from New venture in Mulberries and Prickly Franklin to Santa Fe, meeting with Pear. Dekat, Stilwell, KS, will be a local historians along the way. Par­ senior at Blue Valley High School ticipants rated it an outstanding thisfall.) venture. Smithsonian Associates The Heart of the Flint Hills Chap­ will offer the same tour next year. ter organized a long trip this year Oliva will also serve as instructor to celebrate the 175th anniversary for an Elderhostel tour of the Trail and to highlight the series of pro­ inOctober, arranged byJim Sherer grams sponsored by the Kansas at Dodge City Community College. State Historical Society, "42 Days Sherer reports that this tour is on the Santa Fe Trail." Wagonmas­ filled to capacity with a waiting list ter Don Cress and the Trail Ride of 190. Perhaps Elderhostel will committee (Joleen Day, Clayton sponsor the trip again next year. A BOARDBIO Stephenson, Rex Pio, Jim Heath, Severalnice items have been pro­ Doris Cress, and Leland Zerbe) ar­ duced to commemorate the 175th. Timothy A. Zwink ranged the route to follow the Trail SPMA printed an attractive poster, as closely as possible. available from SFTA Last Chance TIM Zwink of Alva, OK, was first Each day Cress or another guide Store. A commemorative pin, fea­ elected to the SFTA board ofdirec­ pointed out Trail ruts and markers turing the 175th logo is available tors in 1988. He served on the and outlined local history as the from the same source. DeweyTrad­ education committee and was wagon train passed an important ing Post in Santa Fe, has produced elected SFTA Vice-president in site. Some camp areas were actual a cotton blanket with the SFNHT . 1989. He left that office when he Trail-era stopping points and oth­ logo (see flyer in this issue). The became academicvice-president at ers were located near the nightly Quivira Chapter has produced an Northwestern Oklahoma State programs. afghan (see enclosed flyer). Other University. He also served on the The participants hereby express objects include belt buckles, ban­ Santa Fe National Historic Trail their gratitude and appreciation to danas, T-shirts, and a tote bag. Advisory Council from 1988 to all the landowners who graciously A special 1997 calendar is being 1990 as a representative of Okla­ shared their resources and to all prepared. The First National Bank homa. He is a member ofthe board good Samaritans who helped the in Trinidad, CO, produces a calen­ ofdirectors for the Oklahoma His­ wagon train as it wended its way dar each year using local artists to torical Society and Westerners In­ along the Trail across Kansas from highlight a local theme. The late ternational. Olathe to Dodge City. This gener­ Don Berg, member of the bank Zwink has been part of the his­ osity of spirit and the sharing of board and the SFNHT adVisory tory faculty at Northwestern Okla­ knowledge andenthusiasm should council, suggested that the bank's homa State University since 1979. empower our young people in their 1997 theme be the Santa Fe Trail His primary research and writing future role as guardians of the old in honor of the 175th anniversary. interests are the frontier military Santa Fe Trail. We salute you. The idea was accepted by the and plains Indian history. He has The participants gathered near bank. Doug Holdread of Trinidad written many articles, papers, and the Lone Elm campground south of State Junior College was selected book reviews related to the Santa Olathe on June 6. From there sev­ to be the artist, Mike Olsen sug­ Fe Trail. Zwink's doctoral disserta­ en wagons and more than 60 rid­ gested quotations for the artist to tion was on Fort Larned, and his ers, adults and children, headed depict, and Harry Myers wrote the master's thesis chronicled the out to follow the Trail westward. text. Twelve quotations by Trail. Hancock-Custer expedition of The shakedown ride was only 10 personages will be depicted along 1867. He presented a segment on miles, and the ~roup camped the with the quotations, and the text the Santa Fe Trail for the Okla­ night north of Edgerton near the will hi$light portions of the Trail. homa public television series, Lanesfield School. This left time for Calendars will be available from Oklahoma Passages. Zwink fre­ members to tour the area and at­ the Last Chance Store sometime in quently delivers programs on the tend that night's program. Teenag­ November. Look for details in the Santa Fe Trail to civic and school ers spent the evening honing their next WT. groups. roping skills-no hay bale or stray There is an added bonus. The A professional historian, Zwink young-un was safe. . or4!;inal art work for the calendar continues to serve as academic The destination for June 7 was wilT be given to SFTA. The collec­ vice-president at Northwestern. Black Jack State Park near Bald­ tion will make a nice traveling ex­ His wife Ann, a registered nurse, is win City. The day was frau~htwith hibit for museums and libraries also a member of the SFTA as are problems with wagons ana teams, along the Trail. Let's keep the cele­ their two sons, Jason and Alexan­ but the train made it to camp by bration of the Trail going strong. der. mid-afternoon with all safe and no

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injuries. That evening the tem­ Trail tip: Don't tie your horse to a peratures dropped low enough lawn chair. that a campfIre was welcome. June 11 was a short drive to Sunday, June 8, began cloudy Wilmington School in time for and cool. Outriders tied ropes to a lunch. Youngsters enjoyed roping few ofthe larger wagons to help the competitions while adults listened teams pull up steep grades. A simi­ to camp music, visited, or rested. lar procedure was used when de­ A rattlesnake emerged from the scending. Carl Miller andother rid­ rock rubble on the west side ofthe ,• ers attached a rope to the back of schoolhouse and, for safety's sake, the wagon, dallied it around a sad­ was quickly dispatched. After that dIe hom, and pulled back, acting everyone was alert for rattle­ • as a brake. This took a seasoned, snakes. The Trail program and trained saddle horse. The pulling supper were held on the east side teams were knowledgeable about of the school with many in atten­ Don Cress's wagon, ''The 8aln," at Wil­ their work and the wagons have dance. mington School. their own brakes, but negotiating Next morningthetrain pulled out The diminished train pushed on difficult terrain safely requires help at 9:00 and traveled all day to the from fellow travelers. The same co­ westward, took lunch at the lovely camp on 142 Mile Creek at the park in Wilsey, rode throughout operation and skills are as neces­ Wheat Ranch northeast of Allen. sary now as in the 1800s. the afternoon, and camPed west of Participants enjoyed the creek for Diamond Spring. All attended the Late in the afternoon the weather swimming and watering stock. If excellent Trail supper and the be­ had turned hot and the group was any snakes were in the creek they girmingofthe program at Diamond glad to fmish the 17 miles and set soon slithered to safety. The eve­ Spring, but rain interrupted Bon­ camp for night in a meadow two ning program included the rededi­ nie Sill's talk and it had to be con­ miles north ofSimmons Point, one cation of the DAR marker and a tinued at the gymnasium in Wil­ of the original stops on the Trail. talk on local history. sey. Ed Harmison presented the pro­ June 14 was a long, hot trek gram that evening. Back at the roadside camp the across vast prairie fIelds, shallow Trail riders celebrated a member's Monday, June 9, was a hot day. streams, and several big hills. For birthday with cake and ice cream The train reached Osage County safety outriders again assisted the supplied by the DAR and delivered Lake by 4:30 and was welcomed by wagons when the grade proved a by Doris Cress. More rain damp­ hoards of mosquitoes and other challenge for tired teams. Riders ened the dust on the road but not bugs that thrive around water. The shared canteens because some of the spirits of the remaining travel­ lake harbored many snakes so no them had left unprepared for such ers. one swam and no horses drank heat. Four universal Trail truths On June 17 the group wasjoined from it. Stock was watered out of held: travel light, come well bal­ by Kate and Brent Rader on their the tank hauled in (a water wagon anced, tie everything down, and mules. The riders followed the Trail and sanitary facility accompanied carry an extra canteen. to Lost Springs. Many Trail enthu­ the wagon train). The last six miles along Highway siasts arrived for the evening's pro­ A youn~ster struwed to haul a 56 were tough, but everyone ar­ gram on the history ofLost Springs bucket ofwater tonis horse. Ron rived safely by mid-afternoon at and early entrepreneurs. Two Con­ Rowe suggested, "It's a lot easier the site ofSeth Hays's Stone Bam. estoga wagons owned by Jim Do­ for your horse to carry water in his The program that evening on the nahue joined the train for the next belly than it is for you to haul that adjoining 4-H grounds was an en­ day's travel. water in a bucket. Lead him to the tertaining play about early Council The next morning five of the rid­ tank. He'll drink if he's thirsty." Grove, written and performed by ers had to return home so the train After that many ofus began look­ local citizens. Bravo! again changed size and consisted ing for ways to conserve energy for On Saturday participants rode in of four wagons and three riders. the long ride ahead. After the eve­ the Wah-Shun-Gah Days parade After lunch at Tampa we faced the ning Trail program some folks vis­ and enjoyed the events of the an­ long, hot trip to the Cottonwood ited the home of Rex Pio in Edger­ nual celebration in Council Grove. Crossing campsite near Durham. ton for a "roping event" and those Few rigs remained in camp. Thun­ Shade was a blessing. The evening who stayed in camp were enter­ derstorms cooled the night. Trail program was at the crossing tained by Frank Nettleton on the June 16 saw the group dwindle site. This was the last night for the mandolin. convenience of the water wagon .. to two wagons (Don Cress and his June 10 started out with a rider team ofpaints and Frank Nettleton and sanitary facility. No one was bucked off, but the horse was soon with his mules named Tom Sawyer left to drive it, and the small num­ caught, the rider remounted, and and Becky Thatcher) and five rid­ ber remaining could manage with­ all was well. The 16-mile-ride to ers (Carol Retzer, Carli and Katy out it. Burlingame was completed in ex­ Dekat, Ron Rowe, and Anne Car­ Again several returned home and treme heat. Camp was at the rodeo ter). Other members of the wagon the group shrank to Frank Nettle­ grounds near town. After it cooled train had returned home toanswer ton's wagon and two horsebackers off in the evening the kids held an the inevitable demands of 20th­ (Ron and Anne). Luck was riding unofficial rodeo, withbarrel racing, century responsibility-putting up with them, however, and local resi­ flag relays, and roping contests. hay, harvesting crops, or returning dents Owen and Della Meier, Paul Many attended the Trail supper toemployment. Theircomradeship Ediger, and Willis Penner arrived and program in town that evening. and good cheer were missed. to gUide the group into Canton.

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ning PatTraffas, Kansas State DAR Regent, presented the new Santa Fe Trail marker recently placed at Ralph's Ruts. Hathaway gave the program on the Chavez murder in 1843, the Plum Creek massacre in 1867, and other regional history. The following morning Ed Kern guided the wa~ontrain to the town ofEllinwood wbich was enthusias­ tically celebratirij:!; Santa Fe Trail Days. Signs and banners deco­ rated the town. The members ofthe wagon train were given a hearty Cannon firing demonstration at Fort Larned NHS. Photo by John Dollar. welcome and provided a place to park the horses and wagons. The Many thanks! Vier family graciously allowed the group spent most of the afternoon The travelers followed the Santa wagon train to camp in their yard in the city park Visiting with people Fe Trail as closely as possible and and provided water and other wel­ about the Trail and wagon train crossed the old Chishohn Trail. To come accommodations. Carol Ret­ life. The program that evening was avoid higher afternoon tempera­ zer and her daughter Carli re­ about military clothing and cus­ hITes, the group started early and turned to the train. Ralph Hatha­ toms. way and son-in-law Ed Kern found covered the 21 miles to Canton in Wagonmaster Don Cress return­ six hours. The remainderoftheday the group and agreed to map the route for the next several days. ed home and the group struggled was spent resting, taking a shower over a circuitous route through in the privacy of the horse trailer, Repairs were made to wagon bows broken by the wind. heavy traffic to reach the rodeo and changin~socks (from the right grounds on the west side of Great foot to the leTt and from the left to Trail gUide Ed Kern joined the Bend. The evening program was the right). The evening program in­ train on June 23 and pointed out about Fort Zarah. cluded dedication of the monu­ sites and entertained with stories ment marking the site where the of Trail events. At one point he June 27 dawned hot, and the Santa 'Fe and Chisholm trails in­ rather colorfully regretted forget­ group made it to Pawnee Rock in tersect. There was no traffic jam ting his spurs, so Ron offered to four hours. Many Trail enthusiasts though because the Santa Fe Trail loan him one, since, ''when you visited camp on Pawnee Rock as travel was ended in that area be­ spur one side of a horse the other the program was at the site and fore the cattle herds were driven side has just naturally got to come about the famous landmark. Oscar north to the rail yards in Abilene. along." Krouse rejoined the wagon train. June 20 was the first full day of During the day we observed the Five riders and Nettleton's lone rest for the stock. Riders did laun­ wheat harvest in progress and had wagon left Pawnee Rock for the last dry, inventoried provisions, mend­ to be creative in dodging combines 16 miles of the organized journey. ed tack, and cussed the maid be­ and trucks. We camped at the We passed Trail markers and Ash cause she didn't dust the trailers Wray Cherpitel farm at the site of Creek crossingon the way to Camp or do the ironing or any other work the Little Cow Creek Crossing Pawnee. We visited the Santa Fe for that matter. Ron allowed that south of Lyons. A spectacular Trail Center and attended the Trail one of the towns we rode throul!h lightning display entertained all, program that evening in Larned. thatweek was so smallthatit prob­ but the storms went around and On June 28 most of the group ably needed only one tomcat. The other areas were blessed with the saddled up and rode to Fort Larned men shaved. The evening program hail, high wind, and five inches of for a tour. Oscar Krouse and Frank and supper were at the Maxwell rain. The program that night was Nettleton planned to ride to Dodge Game Preserve. - at the Coronado Quivira Museum City. Frank loaded his wagon on On June 21 Kate and Brent Rad­ in Lyons. the trailer and figured to ride Tom er returned for the day with their June 24 the train proceeded to Sawyer and pack gear on Becky. mule-drawn cart. When the group Ralph's Ruts west of Chase. There Late in the afternoon the rest ofthe "paraded" the main street of Can­ were three wagons and six riders. riders sadly departed to return to ton at 6:45 a.m. it was comprised Frank Burkholder returned with "the other life," leaVing only two to of two wheeled conveyances and his team of halflingers. Eleven­ continue. two riders. At 12:30 p.m.the train year-old Celeste Kern rode with Sunday, June 29, was a hot day arrived at the home ofMarlene and Frank Nettleton and got a lesson in for traveling, so Frank and Oscar Maynard Krehbiel, where a bunk­ mule driving. Frank swears she's started early. They covered the 38 house and corrals greeted the trav­ got a natural touch and needs ad­ miles to Kinsley before a thunder­ elers. Don Cress returned to the ditionallessons next year. On the storm broke inthe evening. Kinsley train that afternoon. Repairs were way we stopped at the site of Buf­ native Ed Carlson helped ferry ve­ made to a canvas wagon cover. The falo Bill Mathewson's trading post hicles and brought the welcome program that evening as at Elyria. and well. A farrier was called to treat of cold watermelon. On June 22 Don Cress's wagon Ralph's Ruts to put new shoes on Monday was spent scouting the (named ''The Bam"), Frank Nettle­ Ron's gelding. The other horses route and planning campsites. On ton's wagon,and two riders headed and mules would soon need new Tuesday they traveled to Spear­ for the Stone Corral area at the shoes too. ville. There Mark Sanka shared lo­ Little Arkansas River. The Marvin During the ceremonies that eve- cal Trail lore and helped map the

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route and feny vehicles. Although wait for all year! To hear and see and me, and I will always take care of her. they arose at 4:00 a.m. to ride dur­ smell these wonderful things is what I The experience of working together ing the cool morning hours, the think about all winter. This is a wagon on the wagon train has strengthened temperature was over 100 by the train on the Santa Fe Trail. the bond between us at home. This time they covered the 28 miles to My name is Carli Dekat and I am 17 year we had some new people come Fort Dodge. Stan Reed, superin­ years old. I live in Stilwell, Kansas, and and ride with us. It was fun being the tendent of the Kansas State Sol­ I will be a senior in Blue Valley High one to welcome someone else and get diers Home, gave them permission School in the fall. When I went on my to know them. The Santa Fe Trail is to camp on the south edge of Fort first wagon train in 1993, I was hooked. great! I can't wait until next year. • Dodge. I completed my fifth this summer on the '. Oscar and Frank rode into Dodge 175th anniversary celebration of the TRAIL TROUBADOUR City on July 4, when the tempera­ opening of the Santa Fe Trail. ture was 113, and visited the Boot When we arrived at this year's start­ -TRAFFIC IN VERSE­ • Hill Museum complex. They were ing point there were many welcoming Poetry Editor Sandra Doe was un­ permitted in with their mounts to smiles and hugs. After a few years of able to prepare the column for this take pictures in front of the Long ·wagon training," you get to know al­ issue. She will undertake her du­ Branch Saloon. This was the end most everyone and they become your ties next time. of the 1996 Trail ride, covering summer family. We always welcome nearly 400 miles along the Trail. The follOWing poem by Anne Car­ old friends and new ones. After a day ter is about Frank Nettleton's No animals sustained any inju­ of riding, we usually get into camp and mules (see "Wagon Train 1996" ries other than normal wear and take care of the horses first as they are above). Thanks to Anne Carter·for tear common with daily exertion. our transportation for the duration. this verse and the article. Almost everyone, man and beast, They are our number one priority. lost weight, but nonewas indanger Please submit material to be con­ Then we take a nap or fix dinner if sidered for this column to Profes­ of starvation. The riders endured the meal is not catered. The adults sit heat, wind, dust, thirst, insects, sor Sandra Doe, Dept. of English, around and talk or go to a program Campus Box 32, Metropolitan occasional falls, and exhaustion. while the teenagers either attend the They also were privileged to share State College of Denver, PO Box program or hang out and rope the bale 173362, Denver CO 80217-3362. a love of the Trail and the lifestyle into the wee hours of the morning. The of a wagon train. programs were full of information and • • •• • All who joined in this venture neat facts aboutthe Trail. The present­ Tom and Becky on the Trail gained a greater respect for those ers were knowledgeable and shared by Anne Mallinson Carter who traveled the old Santa FeTrail, things that were never revealed to me and many of us felt a connection in a school textbook. Becky Thatcher's a girl of scholarly fame through time with those early pio­ At Black Jack Park Jim Heath, the neers. We also learned much from candyman, passed out treats. I was the 'cause TOM SAWYER is read in most the excellent programs along the topic of many jokes since this was the schools, way and can share what we have spot where I fell off my horse two years so when Frank decided to borrow from learned with others. ago. I don't think anyone who wit­ Twain, Some of us do this every year, nessed it forgot to tease me. I love he gave those names to his mules. and it has become as a family re­ riding with the wagon trains and am Tom, like his namesake, likes to have union with the Santa Fe Trail the already planning on going next year so his own way matriarch. Many thanks to the of­ I can learn more about the Santa Fe unfettered by rules or by rope, ficers and the volunteers of the Trail. but Frank knows 'tis better to train Heart of the Flint Hills Chapter for Katy Dekat every day. their efforts over the last 10 years This was a good year for me and Without sweat, for a mule, there's no in spearheading this means by hope. which so many have learned so many others as we celebrated the much about the Santa Fe Trail. 175th anniversary of the Santa Fe Sweet Becky's a favorite with softliquid Trail. There are many ups and downs eyes Carli and Katy Dekat both wrote on a wagon train. For most 13-year­ what the Trail rides mean to them. that promise she won't buck or balk. olds this wouldn't be much fun, but for Under saddle or harness she unfail­ Carll Dekat me it is one of the best things to do. ingly tries Ten wagons in front of you, fifty out­ I hold many great memories from to please Frank. You'd swear she could riders behind you. Great friends sur­ these events, such as when friends talk! round you, and a blue sky above. The come up and give a hug and say they sun beats down on your back and on are glad I could make it. For me wagon Last June both mules trekked the Santa Fe Trace your horse, making the sight of camp trains are a time of work, laughter, and joyful. The many colored trailers look learning. across prairie and rock ridge and stream. like tiny dots on a ladybug. This year my horse, Sugar, and I Nearlyfour hundred miles with thewind A slight breeze blows across the worked better together. She and I could in their face Kansas prairie and ripples the grass, pass any wagon calmly. Passing a blade after blade like a foamy ocean wagon is like a test. You h.ave to study they fulfilled a muleskinner's dream. wave. The constant clip-clop of horse it first before you can ace It. From Olathe to Dodge they trudged hooves on the gravel road is like the Scouting ahead for water is neces­ and they hauled. constant tapping of a percussionist on sary because others depend on us to They pulled or they packed a full load. drums. locate a stream. My horse did thatwork Both rested at night and awoke when Does all this sound like fun, neat, or without hesitation. I learned that, no Frank called, even remotely interesting? This what I matter what, my horse will take care of prepared for more miles on the road.

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Tom and Becky toiled for weeks with- seeakers from their area who can talk and draw an illustration based upon it. Out fail, aoout the Trail. Notes from the speak­ Twenty drawings will be selected. like past cohorts of wagon train lore. ers could bewritten in the school news­ These will be framed and displayed at True veterans of the Santa Fe Trail, paper to highlight local information New Mexico Highlands University dur­ next year, they'll be back for more! about the Trail. ing the annual meeting ofthe Historical 6. Students in Wagon Mound will be Society of New Mexico, April 19-20, FORT LEARNED taking a trek to the top of the Wagon 1996. The art exhibit will then be put on Mound landmark and discussing im­ display at the Rough Riders Museum -TEACHERS' TRADING POST- portant features of the Mound as well in Las Vegas, NM, as part of the Las as other landmarks in the area. Vegas celebration ofthe opening ofthe PaW Olsen, Editor Santa Fe Trail 175 years ago. 7. Students in Wagon Mound will be MOST students at every grade taking a walking tour of the Santa Fe Rules: level enjoy drawing pictures or do­ Trail through the streets around the Pictures must be done on white con­ ingotherkindsofartprojects. They areawith LeRoy LeDoux, whowill point struction paper, 9" x 12". You may use have grown up in a visually-ori­ out features of the Trail. markers, crayons, ink, colored pencils, ented society. The Santa Fe Trail 8. Students in Wagon Mound or any combination of these media. and its history offer a number of Neatness, clarity, and how you follow ways for students to show off their (grades 7-12) have been working on a Santa Fe Trail Art Contest. The pic­ the descriptive quotationwill be consid­ artistic talent while strengthening ered in the judging. Entries are limited other basic skills. tures will be on display for the remain­ der of the school year and open to the to two (2) per student. Entries may not This past spring I used an art public for viewing. Prizes for the win­ be folded or stapled. To identify your contest to enhance reading in my ners will be donated by the Corazon de drawing, the following information language arts classes, tying it in los Caminos Chapter of the Santa Fe should be printed on the bottom right­ with the 175th anniversary of the Trail Association. hand side of the back, in pencil: Name, Trail. The second report below ex­ Address, Phone Number, Selection 9. Students in Wagon Mound will be plains the contest I organized. In­ Number (you are illustrating) working on a tile mural of the Santa Fe cidentally, the exhibit of the stu­ Deadline: All entries must be in Mrs. dents' art work maybe available for Trail. The"heart" ofthe mural will bethe Mound, with a vignette of scenes that Olsen's hand by Tuesday, April 2, loan to locations along the Trail. 1996. Anyone interested maycontact me. reflect life on the Trail. This contest is open to all sixth graders I still need to hear from more teach­ Patti Olsen at Memorial Middle School. ers. My address is 1729 Eighth I teach sixth grade language Street, Las Vegas, NM 87701. arts/reading at Memorial Middle The first report is from Linda School in Las Vegas, NM. Last winter POST OFFICE OAK Alaniz, a well-known local artist I identified about 50 descriptive pas­ -LETTERS- who teaches atWagon Mound, NM. sages in various published diaries, let­ She has a variety ofsUMestions for ters, and journals of the Santa Fe Trail Editor: including the use oI-art in the and had the 200 students in our sixth Recently I had the opportunity to classroom. grade read them. They then selected attend many of the educational Linda Alaniz one and illustrated it. The art teacher SantaFeTrail programs sponsored Here is a list of ideas for teachers in from the local high school and I by the Kansas State Historical So­ K-12 classrooms who would like to fo­ "judged" the pictures and selected 20 ciety. Each speaker provided an cus on the Santa Fe Trail within a lan­ for display. The rules I distributedto the excellent opportunity to learn more guage arts/drama/art curriculum. It is students explain the process. I framed about the history of a specific seg­ geared to our local setting but can be the winning pictures (thanks to Mr. and ment of the Trail. readily adapted. Mrs. Richard Greene oftheCorazon de I especially enjoyed meeting the los Caminos Chapter of SFTA for 1. Students have taken a field trip to friendly and dedicated members of money to buy the frames) and hung other chapters. The series coa­ the local cemetery to do rubbings ofthe them with a laminated copy ofthe pas­ grave markers that deal with the Santa lesced local enthusiasm and sage illustrated mounted next to each proved higWy motivational in en­ Fe Trail. picture. EventUally each student will 2. Students can read orally from the gendering additional support ofef­ get his or her framed picture back. Our forts tomark, preserve, and protect diaries of Trail travelers while the rest local museum held a reception for the of the class writes down visual images the Trail and related historical opening of the exhibit, and the proud sites. from these excerpts to use later in art students brought their families down to drawings or poetry. see their work on display. My compliments to everyone in­ 3. Students can read about the fa­ volved inthe effortand to the KSHS Art Contest: "Children's Vision for organizing this wonderful pro­ mous people on the Trail and do their of the Santa Fe Trail" own dramatizations of these people gression of programs. It would be from the research they do on the char­ Illustrate the Santa Fe Trail for wonderful ifthis could be repeated acter oftheir choice. A resource for this the 175th Anniversary for the 180th anniversary. type ofmaterial is DaveWebb'sAdven­ Thousands of people traveled the Anne Mallinson Carter, President tures with the Santa Fe Trail. Santa Fe Trail from 1821-1879. Some Missouri River Outfitters Chapter 4. Students will be recreating a map of them kept diaries or journals. Others 964 NW 600 ofthe Santa FeTrail as a group project wrote letters. Some were soldiers who Centerview MO 64019 focusing on that part that is within New filed reports. Editor: Mexico, as each group member draws You will be provided with descriptive The Kansas State Historical Soci­ an important feature of a Trail site. quotations taken from some of these ety is contemplating a reprint of 5. Students can choseto invite guest travel accounts. Pick one quotation Louise Barry's monumental work,

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The Beginning qf the West, as a produced some ten years ago. Pos­ Trail until 1846 and after," John C. 175th commemorative edition. sibly one or more of these was in­ Fremont's orders to James W. Ab­ However they are somewhat hesi­ cluded in the earlier count. if any­ ert, dated Bent's Fort, August 15, tant to take the plunge unless one knows ofany not yet accounted 1845, refers to the Bent's Fort there is sufficient interest shown for, please send the information to Route as "the wagonroad to Santa by prospective readers/purchas­ WT, Fe." Abert's 1845 journal provides ers. If you support another print­ Editor some revealing details about the ingofthis invaluable source onthe Editor: use of this route. Santa Fe Trail and innumerable I recently joined SFTA. I have a Abert wrote under date ofAugust other western history topics, 24: "We have now finally crossed pleasecontact (as soonas possible) copy ofan autobiography ofone of my great-grandfathers who, as a the Reton (Retono of the Span­ Ramon Powers, Director, KSHS, member of the Illinois Volunteers, iards), which is the only difficult 6425 SW 6th, Topeka KS 66615 or marched down the Trail in 1847 part of the regular route to Santa Elaine Hassler, President, KSHS, under command of Colonel E. W. Fe by way ofBent's Fort, which we 1540 Jeep Rd, Abilene KS 67410. B. Newby. He returned to Fort concluded tobethe preferable road Without a groundswell of support Leavenworth the nextyearand was at all times, in which opinion we this will not be reprinted. discharged. I look forward to meet­ are confirmed by finding it the Mary & Mel Cottom ing others interested in the Santa route most traveled this year. It is, 1318 Fremont .Fe Trail and comparing notes. however, 60 miles further; but the Manhattan KS 66502 Ladd H. Schwegman beauty of the scenery, the delight­ Editor: 1821 4th St SW ful freshness of the snow-cooled On behalf of the Kansas Society, Minot NO 58701 water of the mountains, with good grass and timber in abundance, Daughters oftheAmerican Revolu­ Since we are now commemorating give it greatly the superiority; tion, a special thank you is ex­ the 150th anniversary of the Mexi­ tended to the Santa Fe Trail Asso­ whilst, by the lower (Cimarron) can War, would you consider shar­ route, you travel, according to in­ ciation for the beautiful plaque ing thatportion ofyour great-grand- presented to usat our state confer­ formation ofMr. J. N. Simpson, 50 father's autobiography with the miles to Sand Creek, which is gen­ ence by Jane Mallinson. The readers of WT? Perhaps we could plaque honors our marking of the erally dry, then 118 miles to Mc­ run this in 1997, 150 years after his Nee's Creek; although water can Trail. We are most appreciative of service, this gesture. After showing it off a generally be procured in the Ci­ Editor marron, 70 miles from Sand Creek, bit, the plaque will be on perma­ Editor: nent display in the DAR Library at by digging in the bed of the river, Dodge City. 1 would like to see a series of which is extremely inconvenient articles in WT proViding an inven­ for watering animals." (Source: The Kansas DAR is pleased to tory ofSanta Fe Trail sources, per­ John Galvin, ed., Through the announce the placement of a new haps bycategory. Jane Mallinson's Country ofthe ComancheIndians in marker on the Trail. This marker, work on DAR markers is a good theFall qftheYear 1845, San Fran­ number 97, commemorates the example. Later these might be cisco: John Howell, 1970, 17.) 175th anniversary and is located combined into a catalog. I'm sure Abert also wrote offinding "many at Ralph's Ruts on the Ralph SFTA members will share their fragments of wagons, such as Hathaway farm west ofChase, KS. special knowledge. I, for example, hounds and axletrees," inthe pass. The markerwas presented onJune can submit what I know about Additionally, you will recall, the 24 and will be dedicated on Sep­ Mormon source materials. Several wagon caravan that Matt Field ac­ tember 18. Everyone is invited to people might work on inscriptions companied in 1839 traveled to join us for the dedication. along the Trail. Others couId pro­ Santa Fe via the Bent's Fort Route. Shirley Coupal, KSDAR Historian vide inventories of manuscripts, Who knows how many other Santa Pat Traffas, KSDAR State Regent newspapers, books, artifacts, and Fe Trail travelers opted for this PO Box 35 other items held by various librar­ route whose journeys have gone Smith Center KS 66967 ies, museums, and private collec­ unrecorded? Editor: tions. All of us could benefit from Mark L. Gardner Have any more ofthe oval mark­ such an inventory. PO Box 879 ers placed on schools along the Stanley B. Kimball Cascade CO 80809 Trail in 1948 been found beyond 15 Crestwood Dr Editor: what you reported several years Glen Carbon IL 62034 The Lyons Public Library hasjust ago? I recall you fmally got up to The idea is sound and WT stands received .its fourth grant to pur­ 22. I have been told that there were ready to publish such material if chase materials on the Santa Fe only 20 ofthe markers tostart with someone wUl oversee, collect, and Trail. Our large collection is avail­ and Dean Earl Wood ordered 27 evaluate the articles. You, Professor able to loan. For a bibliography of more to mark the route from West­ Kimball, might volunteer for this titles, please contact me. port Landing to 66th Terrace and task or recommend someone who Our effort to celebrate the 175th State Line. can do it. anniversary was to have Kay Kuhl­ Ross Marshall Editor man from Lawrence, KS, present 6624 Craig Rd Editor: her impersonationofMarion Sloan Merriam KS 666202 I was perplexed by your state­ Russell. No more have been reported. I un­ ment in the last issue ofWT, p. 29, Gerri Crane, Director derstand the Mahq[fie Farmstead that "the Bent's Fort Route, later Lyons Public Library and Stagecoach Stop at Olathe, KS, commonly called the Mountain 217 East Ave South had six replicas qf the oval sign Route, was not partofthe Santa Fe Lyons KS 67554

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WILUAM JAMES HINCHEY: AN IRISH ARTIST ON THE SANTA FE TRAIL, PART II edited by Anna Belle Cartwright

(The introduction and background Jor Hinchey's diary and sketches appeared with part I in the last issue. The diary continues below, beginning with the entryJor Sep­ tember 18, 1854. A portion oj the diary Jor nearly three weeks in October 1854, covering the trip on the TraUfrom the Missouri border to the Cimarron River has notbeen located. This part oj the Trail is included in his diary ofthe return trip to Missouri theJollowing year. Another part of the diary, Jrom October 23 to November 13, 1854, was not transcribed from Pitman shorthand by Hinchey's son, Ste­ phen, when he deciphered the oth­ er diaries in the 1950s. Cartwright located Jour women who worked diligently to tran­ scribe this part oj the diary, in­ cluded below, recording the trip from the Cimarron River to Las "Camp at Good Spring Kansas Territory," 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of Vegas, NM. They deserve special the National Frontier Trails Center. thanks for making this important part of the trip comprehensible. This morning rode to Westport for Today poor John, one of our Irish­ See article on page 4. The portion , camp provisions in company with Mon­ men, was thrown off his horse (the oj Hinchey's diary reproduced in sieur Guerin. On this trip I met James young white one) and hurt. This was this issue covers the trip to Santa Collupi, the brother with whom I had one man bad. George, the hunter, had Fe. The final installment will been in company at Cincinnati. He the colic; Monsieur Abbe Vaur's hands appear in the next issue and came to state that he, two others, and were blistered; Padre Ortiz was sick include Hinchey's observations of Mrs. Warrar had arrived from Saint generally; and there was the man who Santa Fe and environs and the Louis. All came tothe camp tonight mid shot himself. Also Monsieur Abbe record of his trip back to Missouri sounding of horns, as it was dark. Pollet. I don't know what was ailing him. over the Santa Fe Trall in 1855. Wed. 20th Monsieur Pere Avel was horse sore. The outstanding exhibit oj Hin­ This is but one of the fine days. In Sat. 23rd chey's Trall sketches, notebooks, truth we are now favored with fine This morning I was about to ride into paintings, and artifacts may be weather; but the mornings and eve­ Westport to see the wounded Pere seen at the National Frontier nings are rather cool. Eguillon; but the young white horse on Trails Center in Independence Went out hunting this morning. which I rode took fright from some until the end of 1996. The section sacks on his back and started off in oj the diary which follows Thurs. 21st of September 1854. West­ continues at the camp at Good port - Good Spring Camp Spring near the western border oj This morning I rode into Westport I Missouri, where Hinchey was with the Bishop. Breakfasted at the ho­ encamped with Bishop Lamy's tel with the Bishop and later joined one party awatttng a contingent oj of the newly arrived Irishmen. nuns to join them on the trip to Had some horses shod and returned Santa Fe. As noted below, the to camp. At the camp today Monsieur nuns did not arrive and the cara­ Eguillon shot his hand and was driven van made a trip over the Trail late away to Westport to a doctor, where he in the season oj 1854, en­ countering snow before reaching remained in company with Monsieur I:, Santa Fe.) Guerin and Monsieur DeLongle. Of course, this made a great confusion in _.,.) < • Mon. lath the camp. Went out about the prairie hunting Fri. 22nd this morning, but did not find anything At the camp today were confined all \ ri to speak of. Fired two shots only to try its inmates except those who were en­ the gun; one at a piece of paper and gaged at Westport attending Monsieur riddled it. Went down to the Good Equillon who had shot himself on the Spring and made a sketch. previous day, and those who were out Conestoga Wagon by William J. Tues. 19th Westport - Good Spring looking for the cows and calves, some Hinchey, 1854, courtesyofthe St. Louis Camp of which were lost. Art Museum.

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Dr. Kinlock at Paris. Being rather fatigued from watching and caring for the sick man (having to pour water constantly on the wound) I was rather glad today to receive orders to go with him back to the camp in the evening. The doctor and the carriage came and took us to camp. Tues. 26th

"\ At the camp today. Rather fatigued so I devoted myself to resting. Made a little sketch of the Good '. Spring. Tonight sat up a while with

, ..­ Monsieur Eguillon. • ,~,,-.'. : .,,,"- '. -:.~ Wed. 27th -f"'- "'"f'/ I f~/', The camp was all set in motion to­ , , / day. But 'twas merely by way of trial, and the only result was to separate the camp.

• ~ ~~ A • ~,' . , Thurs. 28th The Hill at Good Spring Camp "Making a Crib for the Mules," 1854, byWilliam J. Hinchey, courtesyofthe St. Louis Art Museum. Today moved all our camp, up higher on the same hill. The Bishop spite of my efforts to hold him. In trying dressed and walked with Pere Julliard was not in camptoday being sick at the to /'ump off with a bundle on my arm I to Westport. In the hotel I found the hotel in Westport since yesterday. So fel but sustained no injury. wounded man, Monsieur Eguillon. I re­ now we have sickness enough; The This evening I rode out to look for mained there all day and night taking Bishop, Monsieur Eguillon, Delongle some cows and after rounding up two turn about with Pere Julliard in attend­ and several others rather delicate. and a calf, I lost one and also lost much ing the injured man. We sent Monsieur Fri. 29th of September 1854. In camp time looking for, but did not get her DelongIe back to camp as he had on hill near the Good Spring been attending the injured man since again. Here we are still in camp at the same James Collupi and George brought Thursday, the day the accident oc­ curred. place. The news has come that Mr. the others to the camp. Warrar is in S1. louis. We sent his wife o' Sun, 24th of September 1854. Good Mon. 25th. Westport - Good Spring and Bridget into Westport and in the • j~ Spring Camp - Westport Camp evening Monsieur Eguillon went to This morning after attending mass, I Sent a letter to Rebecca and one to Westport with Monsieur DelongIe to have the doctor examine his wound. Very fine weather and not much hap­ pening to break the monotony of the camp. Sat. 30th Today the Bishop came from West­ port looking very pale and meager, with a bad cough. Today there came to the camp a gentleman named McArtney who pro­ .­ claimed himself to be, or having been, • ,. a Major in the American Army, and to "Camp at Black Jack," October 6, 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of the have been in old Mexico/during the late National Frontier Trails Center. war. I did not qUite like his appearance atfirst, but I soonfound he had no more than a tolerable share of self esteem and seemed somewhat affected in manner. However, he had rather a mili­ tary air, and before the evening had f' • passed away I set him down as a man t of good parts, though one with whom (like most Americans) it was necessary to keep a distance in order to form acquaintance. I observed also he was " inclined to meddle in the affairs of the l camp. ••

~ • ~- _ .. Sun. October 1st. Good Spring Hill ._" . Camp. 110 Mile Creek, October 7,1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of the National Today in the camp there were said Frontier Trails Center. some masses. The Bishop being ill did

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in hisstudies oflaw, language, etc. that his object in coming with us to Santa Fe was to recruit his health. Nothing very important happened to­ day. {Hinchey's diary from this time until October 23 was lost. History records thatthe awaited nunsdid not arrive and the caravan started for Santa Fe around October 3 or 4. By October 23 they were on the Cimarron River where the diary continues.} Tuesday 23rd October, 1854 On Sima­ ron We camped this noon on the road­ side about two miles from a small pond of water, whence we got a supply. All this day we had observed the prairie burning south of us; now to­ wards evening the wind is very high and to the right of us advances the fire. My warnings were rejected and so all go to bed but me. Slept an hour and Swltzler Creek, October 8, 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courlesy of the National found themselves awake by the flames Frontier Trails Center. coming right on them. Thus for shout­ ing and running with blankets to put it out!!! Wednesday 24th October. On Simaron - Spring holes This morn at 8:00 o'clock, we started to follow in the wake of the Mexican train (which moves so horribly slow). Breakfast about midday on the road and recontinued our way till evening when we stopped in the immediate vi­ cinity of some holes in a hollow and there in find water, but fit for cattle only. Had an ox slaughtered; of which we ate for supper. Tried to shoot some , wolves tonight. "'" r!:.«.",,' i .fe... <,...x,.....: ,,,'¢t:<~._ .~, , '" '>.- • ." i '"/' >i '" .~~ , , Thursday 25th October. Spring holes ­ "k -, ""'~ ./," .• _~#., ~= --;-:;"~ ~ . ;;"' ..' .. __ ifu.'~ '. I ~~@;.e".~: Simaron River /- t!"~.,.;,~d~., ~_;..., '" ~.... '~"d""0",·-•. ~_.,~-,..· .. · Dragoon Creek Camp, October 9, 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of the At 4 this morning we find ourselves National Frontier Trails Center. again on the hour we usually awake and traveling over thewretchedly bleak country. About 11 :00 a.m., we came to a fine creek having a number ofsprings which form quite a river running from it. Walked through the water and above my knees in mud to shoot some duck. Saw a buffalo. Gavechasetothefinish. In this neighborhood the country is very hilly, and about the creek very strangely indented, with loose rocky sides so as to form a large amphithea­ tre whose sides were formed by so many little shelves all looking on to the same. Council Grove, October 10, 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courlesyof the National At 3:00 o'clock we struck our tents Frontier Trails Center. and took the road again till just at sun­ down we were met by a fearful storm, not take any part. Sun. October 1st, 1854 continued: having battled for an hour through it we Our Major did not go to mass, being Good Spring Hill Camp. camped near a frowning bluff and had a protestant, though as I was told by I learned from the Major today that a dreadful stormy night. Padre Ortiz his father was an Irishman he had been also an attorney and had Friday 26th October. Simaron River ­ and probably a Catholic. confined himself so much to his office, Sand hole.

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Well after a very stormy night, during which I thought the tent would have been blown away, we got up and by broad day and having found some very nice brush wood we had a warm break­ fast, very much better than I expected. This morn George shot a "dozen" ducks. I went off with a gun for more, but seeing a very large buffalo on a \ neighboring hill I followed the track but ., lost it by some mysterious means. So having tramped aboutthe hill I returned , to camp at 2:00 p.m. and at 3 we started. The day was then particularly fine. Camp at Council Grove, October 11,1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy oUhe We had got on the top of a hill when National Frontier Trails Center. there came on a fearful storm which lasted all evening till we camped at 6 o'clock. Such camping. We had the rain coming down in fearful torrents, .'. _0' ,,>' the ground so soft and wet that each o 0' ~. I t 0- • __ '.' . step sunk a foot ankle deep. No tent (-; - ; d - ". tonight though I proposed that the , '

ground being so sandy would absorb . , ,'. the water and leave us nearly dry atthe expense often minutes waiting. Butno,

I should do as he would and make out L, "" a place in the carriage or wagon. Well we had a few crackers and some cold J ;" : scraps of meat with water to sup on. ~ , ,. " Monsieur Delongle and I got into my '.', , little carriage andthere ensconced our­ ,-' , selves at our famous supper and tried to sleep. A hard job to bed-a-bye, nev­ , ertheless we did have an occasional , doze; but not till we had laughed heart­ ily at our position and the noises out­ , side. .' , The moon shone out beautifully but the night became fearfully cold. I suf­ fered much from a cramp and he from his sore eye. Poor fellow. he thought more of me than himself. "Washunk:a" [Washunga] standing and seated Indian, Kaw tribe, Council Grove. ,', Saturday 27th October. 1854 Sand October 11, 1854. by William J. Hinchey. courtesy of the National Frontier Trails.· Center. hole - Middle Simaron Spring. This morn extremely cold. A fire of and having placed it on the top of a its fuss, and a Mexican lot crowded our firs which we had carried with us. Being neighboring hill to guide them to us, we tent. light there was a good breakfast went to bed. They came about one, Soon after a breakfast, which seems cooked and during the process we after midnight. I Slept long and excellent from sheer appetite. We had were obliged to run about to keep soundly. broiled bits of beef, coffee. tea and warm. I had the whole buffalo skin to myself crackers with some little corn cake Started from here at 10:00 a.m. and tonight, poor Mr. Warrer being very fries; done by Garcia. following the Mexican train we stopped badly troubled with the boil on his hip, Now I am sitting on the front of my at 3:00 p.m. We had a good dinner. Fire slept for the (3rd) night in the carriage of buffalo chips. Saw many antelope little carriage listening tomy little canar­ where I rode all day with his wife, and ies singing and writing these notes. It today. Bridget. Bridget slept in my carriage. '-,-­ is 12:00 o'clock. r. Being then about two miles from Poor Delongle is suffering with a boil some water, the animals went there. Immediately after 12:00 I take my gun over his left eye which blinds it up. Mrs. and walk to the top of some rocky So just at dark we set off again and at Warrer has two under her arm!!! nine we arrived in a nice little hollow by heights about two miles on towards Sunday 28th October, Middle Simaron Santa Fe. the side of the middle Simaron stream where we camped for the night. We - 'he Bluffs" There I take a few little sketches of had traveled by the light of the brilliant This morn we all slept till 8:00. I could the bleak country around. There being moon and frosty stars. It was very cold have got up at 6:00, but the air was so naught but sand lightly covered with and the roads uneven and dirty. Having cold and all so cheerless that I slept wiry grass intermingled with prickly left the Mexican camp. it not being again. pears and cactus. ready to start, onthe roadside we being At that hour the bishop came and I fired off my gun amongst those now encamped, set a lantern on a pole called us. Then came meetings with all sandy cliffs. The report was announced

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by a dozen echoes which sent many frightened hawksand ravens flying and screeching through the many chasms of savage aspect.

At 2:00, the trains set forth again so .. I descended from those heights and 'i", , . entered my little carriage. ? Some had marked their names on the cliffs. I thought it a weakness. 1111 7:00 p.m. we pursued our journey and at that hour being arrived at a place called "the bluffs" where we found water for the animals. We pitched our tent and set out to gather firs and buf­ falo chips, and got our supper. In a short hour's time the Mexican train joined us having made good way, the road being down hill for the greater , part. though still twas deep, soft and , I sandy. After supper I agreed to go out on watch withWalter and by the light ofthe moon (the night being clear and frosty "Siesta." 1854, by William J. Hinchey, couresty of the St. Louis Art Museum. with a heavy dew) we walked about and sometimes sat and lay till 2:00a.m. torrents. and laymen come crowding in half a at which hour we returned to camp. My job is to get up the tent. So with dozen and in the dark walking over us, till being remonstrated with, they sink Daily the major tries to work himself some others I rushed to the wagon, hauled it out, and now for the work of down gradually in the distant corners into some authority again, Mr. Warrer and slumber in finest security. being sick. our struggling to get it up. holding it against the wind which blows a raging It is astonishing how people can Monday, 29th October, The Bluffs-In blast. Misery on the Prairie. sleep in such a case. Were the same The noise of wind and voices can persons in their own comfortable At 2:00 a.m., Walter and I came in now be likened only to the scene of a homes nights of such a storm as that from our night's watching and truly we storm at sea. night raging about them, would most were cold. The heavy canvas we try to get up probably keepthemfrom sleeping ifnot I went to bed in the tent but had only on its three poles with each man to a preventing their going to bed. And now two hours sleep for up we all got at 4 corner. Hold all the ropes. A man to with naught but a simple piece of can­ and following in the wake of the Mexi­ each pole, keep them upright. vas between them and those torrents cantrain we crept slowly on not making of rain, which look in each flash of half the way we should had we not The wind carries it away. No, 'tis lightning like so much liquid fire, they been guided by those creepers. recovered, bravo! Down go the pins. All lie down and sleep well. the way around. It is done. Now dig a At 10:00 a.m. we stoppedto breakfast trench around to keep the water from But they were to pay tonight the pen­ on the side of the little Simaron stream flowing in. alty ofthelrtemerity, for lw<;> hours have (in this place only a succession of little scarce passed and with wind this ponds) at which our animals drank Bravo!! It is to be hoped it will with­ "baseless fabric" no longer ableto with­ only; we having carried water for our stand the storm but so great is the stand the increasing storm has torn up. own use made breakfast and ate heart­ strength of the wind, and weight of the rain that even through the tent it forces Now is the moment of movement! i1y. The water here was not fit for hu­ Each man for himself. Up, up, up! Poor man use. and makes the tent to be a sorry de­ fense against such a storm. wretches learn to put less reliance in About 1:00 p.m. we set out again on chance!! Flash! Blaze!!! Streak!!!! go the light­ our way. This time without the other Each one struggling with canvas train. ning. Crash! Pea!!! Roar!!! goes the thunder. In truth it was a storm!!!!! dripping wet, and with blankets, buffa­ loes and bundles of clothing tries to 'Twas our intention to travel till 8:00 No chance of supper tonight. Oh, for or 9:00 p.m. in order to arrive at the last make what haste he can to extricate a supper or a biscuit for it is all we could Simaron spring and so see the last of himself from his load of wet ropes and expect. Who would venture out in that· this miserable locality; but fortune was canvas. storm not I, I'm sure. against us for at 6 o'clock we were But wait, my poor friend Delongle But in all this confusion there is one followed and overtaken by a storm of poor man having but one hand to strug­ greatfurywhich soon obliged usto stop makes a charge and returns carrying his bed and mine. gle with, the other being a wounded and form into a "corral" on the naked one. To his assistance I think it my duty prairie. Well we spread his blankets on the to hasten and after half an hour's strug­ Down comes the rain in torrents. wet grass within and over this my buf­ gle all get clear and I being thoroughly Rushing about come all hands, every falo robe, then my two blankets and wet take off my bed, put it in a wagon one to his job for it is now the moment now we together huddle in, taking care and step into my little carriage, where for action if we are to escape a night of to cover our heads to secure them from with the Padre Ortiz I pass the most suffering. The lightning flashes, the the falling drops. miserable night. from 10:00 p.m. till 8:00 thunder crashes, and each man is run­ long and heartily I laugh at my pre­ next morning. My feet and legs suffer­ ning to his post as the rain falls in sent position. In half an hour priests ing from extreme cold and wet.

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There is one thing I rearet much in What we have, we put in the corral rather troubled with a •oain in the stom- this night's affair. It is that the major which we should have done with all last ach. At 9 o'clock we came in sight of was not one ofthe sufferers inthe tent. night. some rocky "hills" and at 11 we entered Had it been so I should have forgotten Our men go off in quest ofthe others a place called "Blanco." It is near noon my own troubles in the contemplation to find only one dead one. and still cloudy. We camped ontheside of his. Poor man. of a ravine between the rocky walls of The day is horrible without, so it is Poor man, poor man! Twas but this a less rocky nature, some of which I determined to stay where we are, take climbed to make some little sketches. morning that he has comeforth and got dinner and have a full night's rest and on his horse (a facsimile of quixotic This place is called, "La Cassa del set offfresh inthe morning after we can Blanco." It is a truly savage looking f' assininity) dressed in a combination of first find our missing animals. shawls and blankets set up to be an place. I So in the tent we dine. It is quite dark .. Indian and each having some history After a sojourn of several hours, it told by the major amid many others, all now and the prospect of another mis­ being near the close of day, we set out in grand parade for show. On he rode erable night. again and traveled by a bright harvest by, and past the train and at the first As we sit and stand crowded moon until we came to a rocky surface was mistaken by several for an Indian. together in the tent for dinner, the fire of about I 00 yards in diameter. This is If these obvious proceedings were casting its smoke on all, I sit by the an enclosure of a piece of country performed with a touch ofmirthor other bishop who very politely serves me which is surroundedwithin the rocks by . mountebank, they might have a "pretty first. (and as with all his acquired ways a deep stream or collection of water good effect". Butthis gentgoesthrough was an excellent man.) The tent being called the Cold Spring. Being a fine his farces evidently without fully know­ raised at one side to let in wind enough night, I got the first watch with Mr. ing the ridiculousness of the role he to draft the fire as cheerless as it can Delongle until a quarter to midnight. plays. Truly 'twas an amusing charac­ well be. Then later, we walked about on the ter! Though so wretched a combination To bed then we go having all said rocks and I am much pleased with the of vanity and pretension. some night prayers (as surely qUick as wildness of the scenery. Tuesday 30th October, 1854 possible). I take care to set my bed on The rocks are larger but more flat the hot ashes. The night is wet but not and much wider than any I had yet Camp Miserable on Prairie very severe. seen. This place is truly a remarkable Was ever human so tired of sitting? Wednesday, 1st of November - Camp work of nature. Here I have been bolt upright all the Miserable on Prairie - Camp Bad During the Texas and Mexican Wars long night through in this "chamber of Weather little ease" and with me, the Mexican this was used as a camp for several thousands of men. A fine sheltered priest Ortiz. His head on my shoulder Half past two we are at length about place it was for them. and my head on his have we been to start. The morning is not very wet. obliged to "fix" ourselves. Last night Indeed the weather seems to undergo Friday, 3rd November - Cold Spring after I had abandoned the tent, the a struggle for the mastery between the on Rocky River - Cottonwood Springs complaint of the other poor sufferers sun and rain. (Craggy Creek on Rocky Ravine) brought the bishop from his carriage And here comes the Mexican train. We left the Rocky Spring about 8 am and some others from their wagons so It has suffered much over the severe passed over many hills, through scarps it was again setupandthistime despite weather (8 mules dead.) Even so, our and a wretched bad road to the Cotton­ the torrents ofrain and the mighty blast loss has been comparatively small for wood Springs; where we arrived at 3 it withstood the night. this morning. We have recovered all pm and had breakfast. A poor break­ So when morning came a little fire of but the dead ones. Strange that as fast too having waited till about 5 chips was lighted under it and break­ morning, as three ofour men are about o'clock. We had some spilled bags of fast was therein cooked. At 10:00 a.m. to start off to look for them they were beans and in vain tried to "recover" the rain started falling though now in espied by JamesCollupi on a hill some them. After an hour we had fried bacon more regular streams, andthewind still 3 miles off, and all but one mule, which and rice. high; we were called on to go to break­ Breto brings half an hour later. The This morn was beautiful. We got on fast. Bishop's black pony which is fetched pretty well though the roads were bad This was much more than we ex­ by John Moore, foregoing a lonely and the air cold till about I pm when the pected, for without there were some grave, turned up by himself. rain came on, preceded by a thick fog chips found in the wagon, there could We camped at a place on the prairie and soon after the rain came down in be no fire. which was in a hollow and full of fir torrents wetting all who had the misfor­ tune to be under it. Gladly did we obey the call to break­ bushes, all arriving and George, the fast - and as soon as I could getmy legs short way with a Colt's revolver. This I wasthen in George'swagon having in marching order I sallied to the tent pleased the Bishop. We went in quest left the little carriage about 10 am be­ and there I find the entire company of game but it soon grew dark, so we cause of the cold. At the camping excepting the sick grouped in different had none, but ate and slept well. place, there were some fine cedar positions around the fire and half Thursday, 2nd of November - Camp trees and a few little cottonwood ones. smothered with the smoke. Bad Weather on Prairie - Breakfast at We camped on the side of a hill looking down on the long rocky ravine. I took some breakfast and atthe fire la Cassa del Blanco, Supper at "Cold got some ofthe stiffness out of my legs Spring" or Rocky Way Very little grass; we were obliged to and back again to my carriage I go; We started at about one half past 6 letthe animals go a mile down the glen where atthis moment I write being now this morning. Itisvery clammy and wet, to get some. I with Tom and some 3:00 p.m. Rain still heavy, and the train as it has been so all night and seems ()thers went there and made a fire. I about to set off anew. But we don't set to promise to be so all day. I think I am returned and wentto bed underthe tent off anew. For now come the animals justified in giving it the name Bad where the ground was quite damp. and we find ourselves minus 15 mules Weather as it has no other. The jour­ This place called Craggy Creek has

and horses. ney I cold and cheerless but I am being a long rocky ravine having several

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good springs. Along this ravine about 3 connecting corridor, the same I had rather impossible for them or for us to or 4 miles George saysthere are plenty crossed after a long clamber. walk up it a half mile, I couldn't call its of wild geese to be found. The scenery here was beautiful. I extremity a proper exit. Having dined, ourselves, and given made a little sketch from the high land. When getting down into this place feed to the animals we set off again The rock was of the same nature as saw the Bishop and others under me about 7; the moon rising asthe sunwas on preceding day. Descended to so I fired off my gun and startled them setting. breakfast, after which we started about very much; they thinking 'twas some Still the ridges horribly bad. Very hilly 10am. Indians yelling and firing at them. country. We came to a camping place Had a fine day and a fine country to Took a hearty supper and went on at quarter past 10 pm. We found water travel through. Beautiful scenery of guard tonight, having lit a great fire on but no wood. Tis rocky and sheltered. wood and rock all along the creek. the side of a rocky eminence. As it has no other name I call it "The About noon we came in sight of the While I had been up the mountain Bishop's Camp". "Round Mound" and at a quarter past our peoele had come in contact with Today we passed snow in large one I left the train on the road and some military who had been escorting quantities on the ground. started out to climb it and on the top of "the mail". Sunday, 5th November, Bishop's it I fired offmy gun as a signal. The shot Soon after our camp was visited by Camp - Head of Cottonwood Creek ­ was not heard but I was seen by the a large party of them who had their Rabbit Ears Creek people ofthetrain. The scenery ofblue, camp a mile off. This morn being beautiful, I as­ high and Rocky Mountains was grand. Looking down a ravine at this mound I They offered to escort usto "the fort" cended some of the hills and made a the "{factor?}" there being very much regular tour about the country. I was took a little sketch. I descended the mountain which was very steep and troubled by Indians, and the roads cov­ amused to see one hawk chasing 7 or ered with snow. 8 black crowing birds which were followed the train which I overtook scratching like so many pigs. Eachtime about 4 pm when at camp. The night was fine but promised I came near them they defended them­ They call it "Round Mound Camp" some rain and snow. From the soldiers selves by turning up their beaks and though it lies 3 miles from the moun­ we got a good load of wood they had claws within the compassing down ta­ tain. The lake was dry but we found a cut for us. wards their backs. pond of water by chance. After supper, Wednesday, 8th of November, Point of On returning to camp I found mass of which I ate very heartily, we smoked Rock - Red River Breaks - Red River going on. After this we had breakfast about the fire (the Bishop being very This morn we set out soon after 4, and started at 11 am. Up and down hill, Chatty). and by moonlight. but principally ascending. The roads At 8 the moon being risen, we set off Today we had a very rocky journey are much better, but still bad enough. again for Rock Creek, where we ar­ though fine weather and the scenery At 3 pm we stopped at a wood of rived about 10. The nightwas clear and beautiful, the sun shining here and cottonwood. We had cornmeal for din­ frosty, the roads good, we put up our there on the distant mountains covered ner. Here we had plenty of water and tent in a good place and went to bed. with snow andthe clouds hovering over some wood (a commodity rather This creek has its name from the us. scarce of late): . great quantity of rocks about it. (Indeed On many sides of us the snow was , .We set out again about half past 6; it has nothing else but there was noth­ falling white and shimmering. the sun was down and the moon just ing worth notice in other respects). Still twas not till the journey from River . rising. ..' The Major is miserably low, now the Breaks area we breakfasted, when the . The evening was beautifully fine. At days and the rides in a wagon are in day was truly fine. Then the panorama 10 pm we turned off the road to the left abundance. became beauteous. Enchanting! having made a mile. We came to a Tuesday, 7th November, Rock Creek ­ Directly after breakfast the soldiers beautiful camping place on the Rabbit Whetstone Creek - Point of Rock (whose camp we had passed and saw Ears Creek. This morn we left Rock Creek at 4 the fire of in the morning) came up to . There was a fine stream ofwaterwith am consequently by moonlight. We water their horses and then gave us wood in abundance all along its banks, travelled till half past 9 when we arrived some sugar, our stock being quite ex­ and those were lying on the southeast at "Whetstone Creek" where we break­ hausted, a fact which the bishop had side only, by high rocky hills of a fasted. announced to us in a droll manner the previous night. strangely volcanic nature. Brown and I wandered about the prairie and hard, they looked like so many lumps made a little sketch of the camp and The soldiers went ahead and about of rough cast iron. distant mountains. 1 pm we came upwith them justasthey . Having formed a corral we put upthe At 2 we met the mail train consisting were leaving their camp on the prairie. tent and smoked at the large wood fire. of the van with the passengers, and a We had a very heavy road, many We went to bed. wagon with mail and provisions. All that hills to descend and steep and rocky '. : The night was clear and frosty. Re­ was drawn by a team of 8 and a litter, they were. markable weather in this neighbor­ by 6 mules. The whole preceded by a Some of the soldiers stayed with us . hood. couple of men on mule back. to assist. The others preceded us a . Monday, 6th November, Rabbit Ears Around half past 3, 1 leftthetrain and little and at 4 pm both parties stopped Creek - Round Mound - Rock Creek went up a mountain called "The Point for supper on the eastern bank of the This morn got up with the sun (not of Rock" which I ascended and on its Red River. very early, bye and bye). Crossing the craggy top I added a stone to a heap We had just finished dinner when creek I climbed the rocky heights and and got up on it, where I fired off my there came on us a storm of snow and discovered what seemed to be hills gun and descended on its western rain, during which we put up the tent were but the sides of a high table land side. Sliding and jumping from rock to and dug trenches all around inside which on. its north east. side had a low rock I got into a wild looking woods which were soon filled with water.

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We had seen the storm coming but as usual with unpracticed persons we had not provided for it till it was on us. We had the soldiers to visit our camp. I visited theirs and spoke to sev­ eral who were "Irish". One of them told me to say the young Irishman by the

·m,., • • /,f/ name of Mulcahey sent the Bishop his . "7:/ .:i!#"', best wishes and this young Mulcahey had studied in France. This I promised ( to do. ~1:. : ' We had a great chat with the Bishop and soldiers around our fire that night. The Major was trying to do it big. Wednesday, 9th November, Red River - Okatay - Soldier's Spring This morn we started at 4. Got to breakfast atthe Okatay river, wherethe dragoons overtook us again. t i I borrowed a horse from them and rode after some antelope but could not Fort Union from the Southwest, February 1855, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of catch. the National Frontier Trails Center. All the day I rode, about 5 pm, when DeLongle who was not asked. he gave a great rigmarole of a sermon our train came up with the dragoons, Monsieur DeLongIe and I slept in the on baptism. As I thought, more likely to set our camp in a corner of a rocky dell Bishop's carriage (the tent not being make perverts from, than converts to it. at a place called Soldiers Spring. Here put up). He baptized a child for which the Doc­ we camped for the night. Days ride very The night was cool and windy, but tor was sponsor. He said mass. I took fine. On watch tonight with James Col­ othelWise fine. DeLongle and I went up a little sketch of the room in which all lopi. He recounted to me some of his the rocks to a fire where there were these performances were carried out. history and we visited the soldiers some poor Mexicans (some of those I I returned to the camp to dine with camp where we found the Bishop in think were women.) DeLongle, Wasser, etc. The Clergy, he~ argument with a sergeant who with the Bishop at the Doctor's. kept It up with great spirit and tenacity Saturday, 11 th November, Fort Union We had been told to prepare for set­ and much better than our "Major." This morn being now camped at "Fort Union" we did not get up very ting out next mornin~ at 3 am. As the The subject was politics. The night early. I went up the hill and took a little Bishop says, "There s nothing certain was fine to cloudy. Went to bed about sketch before dinner. After dinner I in this life but that all is vanity" so did midnight. went with James Collopi over a rocky his usual practice, and forced us to Friday, 10th November, 'Soldier's draw and on the other side descended leave this evening. Spring - Snowy Camp - Fort Union into a deep ravine where we were de­ Now then we're on the road at 5 pm This morn upat 2 am and on the road lighted with the many rocky caverns we (with the thought) as though his ser­ by a clouded moon. Muchtroubleto get there discovered; and having clam­ mon had not hadthe result he intended up the rocky heights from the "Soldiers bered over many of them we found but had got us all turned off. Spring". A great deal of snow all along, ourselves in a sort of grotto at the east­ Monday, 13th November, Barclay's the train getting stuck several times in ern point ofthe hill, and the snow com­ Fort - Sapello - Las Vegas snow and mUd. Breakfast at 10 on the ing on we soon left and returned to This morn we set off before daylight banks in snow surrounded by hills cov­ camp as white as "snow balls". and had a fine journey over the frosty ered with snow and spotted with little Tonight I slept with Monsieur De­ ground to the bank of a little stream trees. Great disappointment in not Longle in the Bishop's carriage very which we crossed. It is I believe called meeting our supplies. comfortable too. It being snowing 'twas for a little town to its north name of Passed by the soldiers about 7 am. with difficulty we could get any warmth. "Sapello." About 3 pm we left the snow which Today I had dined in the tent and so had dinner by myself, for being on the After breakfast we set off again at 11 broke off in a straight line to right and am having gone 9 miles over very left. We were here met by a Mexican rocks I did not return till the others had done. frosty ground. The snow country then who came from Fort Union with some came in sight by the little town of Las provisions to us. The Bishop and his people were still Vegas. at the Doctors. The Major has been At 4.being in sight of the fort we We could see the smoke of it in a divided rations on the road, and at half showing off his great countenance up and down before me all day. valley 9 miles offto the right ofthe road. past 6 we passed through the fort and Beautiful was the snow, ranges ofhills, camped on a rise to the west where we By the Bishop's invitation I treated some of them covered with it; others were sheltered by woody hills from the myself to a pair of new boots and a hat extending far to a ridge covered with north and west winds. with some socks. Bought them rather snow. Others to the left in front of Dr. Byrne of the fort met the Bishop dear I think. strange shapes being pointed to look and conducted us. We {They} had all Sunday, 12th November, Fort Union­ at longitUdinally, but ridged tosee them ecclesiastics to supper and provided Barclay's Post transversally. Struck with the beauty of them with sleeping accomodation. Mis­ This morn, up, dressed, and to the scene I left the carriage and ter Wasserwent to supper in my stead, church which was set by the Bishop at stepped to one side to make a little I preferring to remain with Monsieur the Commissary Sergeant's office and sketch of all this.

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After so doing I followed thetrain and slight one of the interior of the church. breakfast and followed on.the Bishop's overtook it before entering the town. (Bless me what a fine altar piece). track to "San Jose", having left the little Had a steep breakneck descentamong After breakfast where we were sur­ village of "Burnel's Spring" to the left in rocks and across a rapid stream. Pres­ rounded by naked hungry looking peo­ a valley, a wood, and a stream of run­ ently a bridge (rude one) and then an­ ple, the Bishop and his escort, with his ning water. We arrived at San Jose in other stream we entered the town. Priests and the "Major" remaining be­ the afternoon and are still without Town a collection of low mud hovels hind, we started with the train. We breakfast or anything for the mules. strengthened in filth and divided by passed through some mighty dells and And though when we get to the town pools of stagnant water, not more than a mighty pass, right through a moun­ (miserable hole) and we find the 8 feet high having holes bored at dis­ tain of rock, and continued on a very Bishop tis three p.m. before we can tances of 8, 12, 14 feet respectively, romantic but a very rugged route be­ have a dirty repast of bad food served which holes serve as windows though tween hills remarkably steep and hav­ upto us. Fine state ofthings to be sure! without glass. If these may be called ing straight, level, ridged backs, topped Of the town I have made a little houses we saw some. with mighty rocks and clad with trees. sketch while the train was doubling the While we entered the town and the Along this road we traveled until we rocky point which led down to the people came around us peeping from suddenly came in sight of what might river's bank on which it stood beyond. the comers and the tops ofbrutish mud well be mistaken for a brickyard infront, Now then I take a sketch of the church hovels to which they climbed up lad­ at the bottom of a rapid descent. Pres­ inside (the only prominent building in ders. ently to the right such another appear­ the town). Through crooked alleys of mud we ance, and to the left again the same. I The Bishop and his horsemen follow wended our way and in vain looked for turned to George and asked him what as we may. We leave the town but houses. We had trouble distinguishing they were, whether they were the habi­ before we can get to the Spring we are between the men and the mud against tation of Indians, beavers, or some in the dark rude woods and obliged to which they prop their bodies, and the other animals. He told me these were stop and camp. For water we go hunt­ women, the walls against which they "Tuccaloga," {Tecolote?} upper, lower ing with a lantern and find some after sat. and middle. long seeking. We sup and go to bed. Since the Bishop was in town all was We continued our course, following The night very fine, but cool. in finery for the occasion. the road still and presently found our­ Thursday 16th of November 1854 selves amongst the dirty red clay walls At the back of Monsieur Mache­ Camp in Woods - Gusano - Pecos beuf's we corralled and though the with the holes in them, which form the towns. We crossed at the "back" of the At about half past seven a.m. we Bishop has been here from the morn­ made a start and moved a couple of ing there has been no preparations town a rapid stream with high banks and ascended to a pretty plain on the miles to a spring where we break­ madefor anybody but his priests to bed fasted. Twas called Gusano. or house them indoors. opposite side where we camped and got dinner. We had bread made here for us and Machebeuf as "Vicar General" was Now our position is excellent and as so we breakfasted and set out again on here too and they both came out giving our road to Pecos; but as we get on we orders for so and so but 'twas a long the declining rays of the setting sun are stopped in a wood by a party of time before we got our supper. throw their tinge over the hills, the trees and the house, I take my pencils and Mexicans from the Bishop with a new No bread, no fire but at length some make a little sketch. While thus occu­ order for the purpose of taking on the crackers and butter with boiled meat pied one of the "Houses" in the town carriages in advance. So they left us (With Mexicans we ate it). A day with opposite tumbl~d down and killed two and we go on to Pecos. In the neigh­ so little grace in it. Horrible place, hor­ men and wounded several. borhood of this little town we stop and rible people and horrible settlement. Presently the Cavalcade appears on coral at an inclosure where the Bishop Twas true that there would not be the hills beyond the town and now may had left provisions and orders that condition for us to enter the house but be seen plainly; the Bishop's party sur­ Monsieur Delongle and I should follow surely the Bishop could have made rounding him coming dashing along immediatelyto hisfarm, and to drive his some arrangements for bread etc. and through the miserable town where mules. I refused and stayed with De­ The Majorfought a hard combat with the wretched people flock about to kiss longle, the men where we had dinner his love of attention and being terribly his hand to drag and shout for this of bacon and cabbage. left out, buffed all his revolvers and grace and greatness. On they come, at I went after dinner with James Col­ went to get some supper up at the length and cross the river up to us and lopi to visit an old building a mile from town. This he did at American House. soon the train is all in motion with about our camp. On approaching it, itseemed He came back to bed and strode about thirty horsemen in the strange cos­ like a fort; being largethough built in the as though he were somebody. tumes riding up and down about on unbaked red brick. We approached it Had to keep close watch around the their horses so strangely clad. Now on the east side and passed through camp tonight having been robbed by a then we pass through a spot more ruins of kitchens, bake houses, etc. "light finger". beautiful than ever; hills on right and Entered the principal building which we left; woods in foreground and beautiful found to be in the form of a cross with {This was the last ent!)' of the new openings in the thick clumps of cedars the head to the north. 'Twas about one transcription of the "lost diary, begin­ hundred feet long and thirty feet broad ning October 23 and ending November and pines. The Bishop and the horse­ men ride on; while we stop to camp for in the main. In the arms 50 feet; its 13. The transcription done by the night under a tree at this place height about 35 feet. Its roof nearly all Hinchey's son continues.} called "Rita". fallen in must have been very well Tuesday 14th of November 1854. las Wednesday the 15th of November 1854 formed once as the remains of it are Vegas supported by brackets pretty well Early this morning we had our break­ Rito (in Woods) - San Jose (a town) carved. From this place we passed out fast, during the preparation of which I - Camp in Wood by some doors under the remains of made a little sketch of the town, and a This morning we left camp without one galley and discovered many little

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Saturday 18th of November 1854 Apache Canyon - Santa Fe This morning by break of day we - J breakfasted and set off for Santa Fe. Hard work we had to get there. No words could give a fair idea of the

. . trouble of climbing over high hills and • rocks until at last we broke the coupling pole of the wagon number 4 in which '{ James and I rode, I being brakesman. At length we did get in sight of the

, ~ -.. , capitol ofNew Mexico. But let methink. , "Burnell [Bernal] Spring," November 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of the As we came rattling along down the National Frontier Trails Center. hillside, notstoppingfor ruts, nor rocks, we were shown away to our left some nooks and rooms used by the Friars of Catholic Priory. As yet I have not little specks of a square form, and old no doubt. In one on the last side I learned why it should be built in such a which being all the same color as the discovered a deep recess some seven little place; then therefore abandoned, plain on which they stood, few people feet high and three broad and at either as 'tis a place of great size for a Mexi­ could think of defining such to be the side within there were horizontal slits can community to build. residences ofa civilized race of beings. for holding shelves but the shelves 'Twas dark when we left the place Down, down, we came; now having were no more. Many and strange look­ and walked to our camp a mile off. made a turn, the town still below us is ing were the galleries and apartments on our right. And though Mr. Warrer which we saw. A small apartment The town of Pecos is from here about three miles. I did not see it. had his pistols ready to fire a salute on which must have served as vestry entering the Capitol he was close on stood between the western branch and Friday 17th of November 1854 Santa Fe before he could believe he the head of the cross. The windows of Apache - Camp near Pecos - Patchi even came in sight of that long and all were high,large, and nearly square. Canyon - Bishop's Farm - Apache much wished for harbor of rest. When I did not observe any sign of sashes. Canyon that gentleman was convinced of the Wherethe grand alter must have stood This morning we left our camping reality of "Santa Fe" he put his pistols there was a large patch in the plaster­ up, "not thinking the whole city worth ing, much in the form of a Gothic win­ place and passing by the old church drove through some of the wildest and the expending of a grain of powder". dow extending from roof to floor. The This argument is sufficiently eloquent roof was flat as is the Mexican fashion most difficult country I had ever seen. Down hill, though creek, up bank, over and useful for me to abstain from de­ in all buildings. Some fireplaces in the scribing the beauties of the place, and corners ofthe little rooms told how cozy rocks, trees, sand, cacti, and all sorts of things but a fair road. Shaking, jolt­ extolling its merits. I feel that it can be, the inmates must have felt at a cheerful but in living in it a long time and occa­ wood fire when the wintery winds had ing, rumbling, and tumbling, expecting to be upset each moment and wonder­ sionally taking items that I shall be able howled through the snowy mountains to come at a fair description of this and savage woods without, and came ing why we were not; so we travelled until noon. "Capital". (I believe as far as crime whistling some doleful Indian tale goes 'tis won). Well we jolted and jos­ through the many nooks and windings In a wood; a narrow road - we kept tled into the town meeting with half ofthis old "Casa". There was one other on our way and were met by a man sent dressed women and naked children in recess for an altar in the nave of the by the Bishop with a horse for me and abundance; lazy looking men propping church. orders to go on from the next camp, up the corners of dirty brown mud Having poked our waythrough these four miles on, to the Bishop's farm houses, looking as though men and interesting places we turned our atten­ where he awaited me. houses were drunk. And in the midst of tion once more to the exterior and This man is Mr. Patrick O'Rourke, a all this wretchedness we passed under noted a pond ofwater a few yardsfrom carpenter and confidential man with the triumphal arches with little pictures the kitchen end. On going up to the the Bishop, or at least with his vicar, and many looking glasses hanging to front entrance of the church we found "Monsieur Machebeuf." He was rather the floating calico of many colors fixed it large, square, and having a window merry; pretendedto be very glad to see on sticks. And with the rest we passed over it which must have shown light to us; brought us some drink, and having several women gaUdily attired, some the gallery, the remains of which still led us to camp over some breakneck from the style might lay claim tothetitle hang within. Two towers rudely formed roads to a small farm rented by Mexi­ of "Lady", from the extended splendor stood at the corners and against these cans and called "Apache Canyon," he ofthe satins composing her dress. But on the inside were put some large boxed our big Mexican "Breto" for dis­ to me many of these fine silks and posts about seven feet from the obedience and took the command; gaudies seemed to hide dirty skin and ground. Onthe gabelthusformed there while Mr. Warrer and I rode off to the dirty linen. All was new but nothing was a platform about which there were Bishop's farm four or five miles and pleasing. The men were generally pro­ still some loose poles which may have there we had breakfast about three vided with some sort of trousers, old served to swing a bell. This place is p.rn. We then, having seen the Bishop, shoes or moccasins, an old hat of said by the country people to have rode back to camp and stopped there straw, felt, or oil-cloth, and a blanket, been built by Montesuma and they tell all night. Here I found Mr. O'Rourke this latter never missing. No, let all else a great rigamoral {rigmarole} of his quite drunk, having again boxed Breto go as it will, the man has his blanket promising to come again in the sun, if and promised all such punishment to wrapped around his miserable body, there should be a perpetual fire kept Mexicans. With difficulty I got him off as though he was nearly dead with burning in it. But for my part I can see and so we sat around the fire and there cold. Had not the whole affair been so nothing in it but the remains of an old slept. novel to me on that day I should have

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'. • ; • ( • <, . " ,. , , • > • "Santa Fe New Mexico," 1854, by William J. Hinchey, courtesy of the St. Louis Art Museum. been as much disgusted then as I am per given to which Mr. Warrer, De­ visit him. I introduced Monsieur De­ now while I write this, being just one Longle and I of all our lay company Longle, so he too should visit him. Ac­ week later. were invited only. At the supper there cordingly after dinner with Mr. and Mrs. We crossed the "river" and passed were assembled about fifty people, lay, Darmodie we went to see that gentle­ through a temporary gate ofplanks into clerical, and military. 'Twas a very good man, and were by him well entertained the Bishop's "garden", where we supper; far better than I thought could and amused. There was only in one of formed "coral." have been provided in such an outland­ their five churches any services today. ish place. We ate heartily, at least I did A fine state of things for the great Capi­ The jingling and rattling of bells . Had music and speaking from a few. tol. about this time was very noisy. The 'Twas held in a large schoolroom be­ people thought the Bishop was com­ I noticed the new priests and abbies longing to the Bishop. The Bishop ing, but they were mistaken, and so all ranged about the Bishop on the altar thanked the people in a bungling 'twas I had the honor of being jingled as he delivered his hoarse and often speech. He was troubled with a severe into town and passed under the trium­ interrupted speech, rather than sermon hoarseness. phal arches even before the Bishop in Spanish, telling the poor ragged, himself. They found outtheir mistake in After the supper we left the school­ dirty people all he broughtthem, as well half an hour. Meanwhile I left the room and with the Bishop I walked as all the great things he did at Rome. Bishop's house, being the one place in home arm in arm. He also spoke of the St. Peter's Well, town worthy of being called a house. I slept with the others of the newly in the prison and that sort of thing. With James I walked back to see the arrived in a large room of the Bishop's This morning when people got up entry of the Bishop, which I knew was house, in a corner on my Buffalo robe. they found the little Abbie Vaur dead. now in earnest, for the old pots called Dead without the sacraments! In a So ended the proceedings of my first Bishop's house!! A month sick and bells had set ajingling again. day in the Capitol of "Novo Mexico". Well the first of the train was led by snoring priests about him when he some sporting Mexican fellows gallop­ I might have said thatthe only speak­ breathed his last!!! So much for the ing their horses as though they wanted ing at the supper was three addresses preaching and practicing of those fine badly to break their necks. After these to the Bishop, one in Spanish, read by ecclesiastical gentlemen. came the military with drawn swords, a little boy; another in English ditto; and END OF DIARY NO.6 another in Spanish by the schoolmas­ and then the eishop on a white pony (concluded next issue) (lent him by a real Major of the troops ter. in town) and with his hat off he was Sunday 19th of November 1854 Santa COUNCIL TROVE busily occupied scattering blessings to Fe the crowds of natives who knelt as he This morning to the church on the -DOCUMENTS- , passed. At this time there was firing by Plaza. Being standing in the body ofthe the cannons in the Barracks Square, a church amongst the lousy Mexicans LAMY ARRIVAL IN SANTA FE,1854 salute of eleven guns, and so he pro­ Mr. Warrer saw me from above and It is interesting to compare the c$ded tothe three principal churches, descended from the organ gallery to newspaper account of Bishop which he visited (his guard of honor lead me up. When there I could see Lamy's arrival in Santa Fe in No­ waiting outside). The flags of the well all the performances. The Bishop vember 1854 (below) with that churches waved busily; the bells tolled though hoarse, acting the principal part written by Hinchey in his diary more noisily than ever; the soldiers ac­ and preaching too. On the gallery I saw (above). Bonita Oliva located the cO!TIpanied him to his house and all is the choir of little boys. Sang well! And follOWing article in the Santa Fe told. Weekly Gazette, Saturday, Novem­ I Mr. Augustine, the teacher, who But in the evening there was a sup- played. After services he invited me to ber 25, 1854, available on micro-

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fihn. reply, the Bishop made a few appropri­ in which he rode sported a map of Arrival of Bishop Lamy from Europe­ ate remarks in which he thanked his the Trail. The festival was a cele­ follow citizens for the generous and His public reception. bration ofthe 175th anniversary of friendly welcome they had given him. the opening of the Trail in 1821. The Right Rev. John Lamy, Bishop In the course of the evening, two ad­ • • • • • of Santa Fe, arrived in this city last dresses of felicitation were read to him Saturday the 18th instant, from Eu­ in Spanish and English, by the scholars Scoutmaster Richard Kestner re­ rope, after an absence ofnearly a year, and teachers of the school. The com­ ports that Boy Scout Troop 147 at whither he went on business con­ pany broke up at half past seven, in a Alamogordo, NM, celebrated the nected with the Church. The evening good humor with themselves and eve­ 175th anniversary by bicyclingthe before he reached town, he staid at his rybody else, and retired totheir respec­ New Mexico section from Raton to , ranch, at the mouth of the Apache tive homes. Santa Fe, August 3-9. They visited Philmont Scout Ranch on the way. Canon, giving his parishioners time to Among those assembled were the make some arrangements for his pub­ Hon. ChiefJustice Davenport, the Hon­ • • • • • Iic,.reception. About eleven o'clock, orable Secretary oftheTerritory, Major The Spring 1996 issue of Spirit SatUrday morning, company H, First Nichols Asst. Adjt. Gen., Major Brooks, magazine featured an article by United States Dragoons, infull uniform, Dr. De Leon, Dr. Sutherland, and Marc Simmons, "Sunbonnets on commanded by Lieutenant Sturgis, pa­ Lieuts. Davidson, Johnston, and Craig, the Trail," about women who trav­ raded in the Plaza, preparatory to all of the U. S. Army, and our leading eled the Trail. This is a great maga­ marching out to meet the Bishop, and merchants and citizens. zine about the Rocky Mountain escort him in. They left town about Southwest, available for only $10 noon, accompanied by a numerous In company with Bishop Lamy, there came eight priests, from France and peryear. The price includes a copy cavalcade of gentlemen, composed of ofa guide book, Crossing the Terri­ officers of the Army and citizens, and Spain, to be placed in charge of chur­ ches in the Territory. One was taken ill tory, and a 1997 calendar. Send marched on the Independence road as your subscription to Spirit Maga­ far as Arroyo Hondo, where they met on the road, and died thesame evening of his arrival, a sad termination of his zine, PO Box 346, Walsenburg CO the Bishop and his party, whom they 81089 or call 1-800-862-9313. received in due form. After the usual journey. He was buried Monday the congratulations and shaking of hands, 20th., with appropriate ceremonies. • • • • • the whole company took up the line of We are glad to see the Bishop in the The Friends of Arrow Rock have march for the city, preceded by the enjoyment of such good health, and received a research matchinggrant company of dragoons as an escort. hope his return will be productive to of nearly $10,000 from the Mis­ The procession entered the Plaza at much good to the people of this Terri­ souri Humanities Council to study the north-east corner, about three tory. African-American history in Arrow o'clock, at which time a solute [sic] of Rock. Professor Gary Kremer, Wil­ artillery was fired by the military in the liam Woods College, Fulton, MO, barrack yard. Arrived in front of the will direct the project entitled, "The church, the dragoonsformed a line and World We Have Lost." saluted the Bishop as he passed in, HOOF PRINTS • • • • • where Tedeum was offered up, which September 21-22 the Friends of occupied half an hour; after which he -TRAIL TIDBITS- Arrow Rock annualhomes tourwill remounted and in the same manner as visit six historic houses: William he entered, was escorted to his place SFTA Ambassador Paul Ben­ Sappington's residence built 1845­ of residence. trup's address was incorrect in the 1849, a restored log home from the In the evening an entertainment was last issue. Your editor apolog;izes. 1830s, the Aderton House built in given in the Parochial new school­ It is PO Box 595, Lakin KS 6'i860. the by a Santa Fe trader, a house, in honor of the arrival of the He will stillenjoy hearing from you. Greek Revival residence built in Bishop, by the citizens of Santa Fe. • • • • • the 1860s, an 1890s cottage, and Invitations were issued to about fifty a 1995 home with Southwest fur­ Mike Pitet SFTA publicitycoordi­ nishings. Cost of the tour is $10. gentlemen, who, at the hour named, 5 nator, reports that articles about P.M., assembled in the apartments ad­ the Trail and the 175th anniver­ • • • • • joining the church. At six, supper was sary have appeared in 43 maga­ You may have heard the rumor announced, when the committee of ar­ zines and newspapers with com­ that MarcSimmons is playingwith rangement led the way to the school bined circulation in the millions. dolls. It is true, but he is doing room, where was spread a bountiful Also more than80,000 requests for more than indulging his fantasy. repast, embracing all the good things Trail information were received in He is consultant to a firm, which in life both the solids and fluids. The response to the ads placed by Trail produces historic dolls with all the company being seated; they fell to 'j state tourism departments in sev­ accouterments, to create a Span­ , work in right good earnest to discuss eral magazines. Never before has ish colonial doll. You can bet this the delicacies of the season spread the public had access to so much will be a real collector's item. before them; and the rapidity with Trail data. At the same time, how­ • • • • • -. which they disappeared bespoke yea­ ever, many Trail sites report a de­ man's service in the cause. After the crease in visitation in 1996. The Boggsville Revitalization cravings of the inner man had been Committee has received a grant of satisfied, and "the cloth removed,' ac­ • • • • • $87,101 from the Colorado State cording to dinner party parlance, the SFTA Ambassador Ralph Hatha­ Historical Fund to continue re­ chairman of the evening, Judge way at Ralph's Ruts west ofChase, search. Projectsincludeanalysisof Houghton, proposed the health of the KS, was selected to serve as the artifacts, additional archaeological guest, which was drank with hearty grand marshal of the Chase Festi­ investigations, research on the wo­ good will, from brimming glasses. In val parade on June 8. The wagon men ofBoggsville, and revising the

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site master plan. giving appropriate attention to the Walker, who traveled the Santa Fe • • • • • Mexican War. Calloway had words Trail as well as , has of praise for the 1996 Rendezvous The Boggsville Revitalization been identified since his death in Committee also received a cost­ at Larned, which was devoted toan 1876 with the wrong middle name. share grant of $17,700 from the examination ofthe Mexican War. Duba directs readers to Bill Gil­ National Park Service Long Dis­ • • • • • bert's Westering Man: The Life of Joseph Walker (1983) for the expla­ tance Trails Office in Santa Fe to SFTA members William and Jan nation of the error. Although search for remains ofthe Santa Fe Hill have published a 32-page Walker has been widely known as Trail on the Boggsville property by book, Heading West Along the Joseph Reddeford Walker, his ac­ using remote sensing. Santa Fe Trail: An Activity Bookfor tual middle name was Rutherford. • • • • • Children. It is available for $3.95, plus shipping, from HillHouse, 91 • • • • • The Philmont Scout Ranch will Wood Rd, Centereach NY 11720. The Missouri Press Foundation host a living-historyday at Kit Car­ will replace the Missouri Intelli­ son Museum at Rayado, NM, on • • • • • gencer markeratthe original siteof Saturday, Sept. 21, 1996, 10:00 The Saline County, MO, Santa Fe Franklin. The marker was washed a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Rayado is 11 Trail Days celebration onAugust 4 away by the great flood of 1993. miles south of Cimarron, NM, on included a tour ofTrail ruts on the The replacement will be an exact Highway 21. Ed Weinrich farm northwest of replica of the one erected in 1919 • • • • • Marshall. These ruts are listed on on the 100th anniversary of the the National Register of Historic founding of the Missouri Intelli­ The June 1996 issue of Compa­ Places. For more information dres, newsletter of the Friends of gencer. Another historic marker at the Palace ofthe Governors, Santa about these ruts and other Trail the site, commemorating the first sites from Boonslick to Lexington, county seat and the opening ofthe Fe, has an article by SFTA member send a self·addressed stamped (55 Carrie F. Arnold, "Adobes on the Santa Fe Trail, has been replaced cents) envelope to Santa Fe Trail, by the State Division of Parks. Santa Fe Trail." There is much Arrow Rock MO 65320. good information about the Palace • • • • • of the Governors and Bent's Fort. • • • • • SFTA member Mark L. Gardner • • • • • A parcel of land with Trail ruts is the author ofLittle Bighorn Bat­ within a mile of Santa Fe Plaza is tlefield National Monument, re­ The Independence Pioneers threatenedbydevelopment. At pre­ cently published by Southwest Chapter DAR, Independence, MO, sent a lawsuit by neighbors, a ju­ Parks and Monuments Associa­ sponsored an essay contest on the dicial ruling preventing division of tion. It is a handsome little book Trail thisyear for fourth-grade stu­ the property, and a protective ease­ with maps and color photographs. dents. First prize was won by Kris­ ment are safeguarding these ruts. ten Roberge of Blackburn School, Mike Pitel thinks these ruts are and her essay was printed in the located at the point where Trail July 1996 issue ofThe Trail Scout, travelers came into view of the vil­ newsletter of the Friends of the lage of Santa Fe. Marc Simmons National Frontier Trails Center. noted these ruts are significant • • • • • and expressed fear that develop­ CONVERSE OF THE The indefatigable Polly Fowler, ment will destroy them. PRAIRIES Independence, MO, preeminent • • • • • Trail historian, SFTA board mem­ The historic adobe churches of -BOOK NOTICES­ ber, and recipient of the prestig­ New Mexico have been placed on ious Rittenhouse Award in 1995, is "America's Most Endangered His­ Stanley Vestal, The Old Santa Fe constantly working to preserve toric Places" by the National Trust Trail. Introduction by Marc Sim­ Trail history in the Independence for Historic Preservation. Nearly mons. 1939; reprint, Lincoln: Uni­ area. Recently she corrected some one-third of the state's 362 adobe versity of Nebraska Press, 1996. misinformation about Lewis and churches are in imminent danger Pp. xvi + 304. Map, notes, appen­ Clark and the location of Fort Os­ of loss or severe damage. Volun­ dix, bibliography, index. Paper, age. Currently she is engaged in teers are needed to help with sta­ $14.00. efforts to identify anyTrail remains bilization efforts. Contact Deborah This reprint ofone ofVestal's bet­ and provide appropriate markings Day at Cornerstones Community ter books introduced the green­ of the route of the Trail through a Partnerships, (505) 982-9521. horn (the reader) to the West via tract oflandabout to be developed. • • • • • the Santa Fe Trail. After procuring Keep up the gocxl fight, Polly! proper attire in Westport, the The Friends ofAlcove Sprin~ has , • • • • • { been founded to help the Alcove greenhorn accompanied the trade Larry Calloway, columnistfor the Spring Preservation Association. caravan westward past familiar Albuquerque Journal, recently la­ Alcove Spring was on the Oregon landmarks. In addition to relating mented the fact that the 175th an­ Trail near present BlueRapids, KS. historical and geographical facts • niversary of the Trail is receiving For more information contact about the route and sites, Vestal the attention it deserves while the wrote about selected topics such Friends of Alcove Spring, Public as stampedes, buffalo and buffalo 150th anniversary of the outbreak Square, Blue Rapids KS 66411. of the war between the U.S. and hunting, Indian attacks and cul­ Mexico has been largely ignored. In • • • • • ture, wolves, and Mexican culture, a later column Calloway quoted Roger Duba wrote in the July all new experiences for a green­ from SFTA member Mark L. Gard­ 1996 issue of OCTA's News From horn. Vestal included such details ner's letter to him in support of the Plains, p. 17, that Joseph R. as Trail mileages and the flora and

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fauna encountered. Stories of the presence of Paleoindians as merely summarized already pub­ women were included, such as early as 6000 BC, but in was not lished sources, most readily avail­ Cheyenne Lost Woman's sad death until the 1300s that the Southern able, and'in doing so has perpetu­ and Mary Jane Luster's escape Tewa moved into the area and be­ ated myths and errors of fact. from captivity twice. gan farming, creating the petro­ The chapter on the Santa Fe Trail Simmons's introduction sheds glyphs on rock faces, and building has good illustrations, including helpful light on this work. Vestal the six pueblos whose ruins lie an excellent photograph of snow­ taught English and journalism within the ranch boundaries. Only filled ruts west of Dodge City. The and was not a historian. Recent one pueblo, San Cristobal, was in­ text is sometimes misleading ifnot j' scholarship has discredited some habited into the Spanish era, giv­ incorrect. To say that Council of the tales, especially those relat­ ing its name to the area. The Span­ Grove was ''west of Franklin" is ing to Kit Carson. Vestal's writing ish entradas, colonization and Ca­ true but misleading. So is the skills and his knowledge of and tholicism, the Pueblo Revolt and statement that the Conestoga enthusiasm for the subject make recolonization replaced the Pueblo "came to be" the "conventional this an exciting and enjoyable in­ people with Hispanic villagers. Not wagon" on the Trail. The old story troduction to the Santa Fe Trail. until after Mexican independence ofBecknell's 1822 expedition run­ -Bonita M. Oliva was the fIrst land grant sought, by ning out of water and drinking Domingo Fernandez. • • • • • blood from the. animals and the Mednick traced a simplilled his­ James A. Bennett, Forts and For­ liqUid from a slaughtered bison's tory of this grant through a num­ stomachiserroneous. Becknelldid ays: A Dragoon in New Mexico, 1850-1856. Edited by Clinton E. ber of owners to the present, and not take 24 wagons to Santa Fe in Brooks and Frank D. Reeve. New concluded by explaining the work 1824. Neither is it correct to say Foreword by Jerry Thompson. necessary to run a successfulcow­ that Becknell "moved in 1826 to 1948; reprint, Albuquerque: Uni­ calf ranching operation. Missouri." versity of New Mexico Press, 1996. This area, rich with prehistoric It is doubtful that John M. Chiv­ Pp. xxvi + 85. Map, illustrations, sites, made a signifIcant contribu­ ington's battalion "bayoneted over notes, index. Paper, $16.95. tion to the fIeld of archaeology. In five hundred horses and mules" at This reprint is welcomed by any the 1910s Nels C. Nelson tried a Glorieta Pass in 1862. The author student ofthe military on the Trail new method of stratigraphic exca­ seems not to have understood the and in the Southwest. Bennett vation, which meant digging in lev­ significance of Chivington's de­ traveled over the Trail and served els, removing only one foot depth struction of the Confederate sup­ at several New Mexico posts. He ofdeposit at a time. Digging at San ply train in the outcome of the provided one of the rare records by Cristobal, he unearthed a complete Battle of Glorieta Pass, declaring an enlisted man for the time pe­ sequence of pottery styles, estab­ the troops "savagely-and point­ riod, although a few ofhis recollec­ lishing a defInitive chronology. lessly-burned eighty-five wagons tions were faulty. Bennet wrote This book does not deal directly of valuable supplies." Chivington about such important Trail inci­ with the Santa Fe Trail, but the commanded the Third (not First) dents as the White Massacre and Galisteo Basin's prime graZing Colorado Volunteers at Sand the massacre ofthe mail partynear land within a day's ride ofSanta Fe Creek. By some stretch ofimagina­ Wagon Mound. Thompson has was utilized especially by the mili­ tion Kit Carson is linked with Buf­ prOVided an informative foreword, tary. Mednick's first published falo Bill Cody as a buffalo hunter enriching this little volUIlle. book is carefully researched and for the railroads and credited with hunting buffalo to the point of ex­ • • • • written for the general reader. Any­ • one with an interest in the history tinction. Christina Singleton Mednick, San of New Mexico in general and the This book is not recommended. Cristobal: Voices and Vision oj the Galisteo Basin in particular, and -Bonita M. Oliva Galisteo Basin. Santa Fe: Office of has an appreciation of the beauty ••• • • Archaeological Studies, Museum of its landscape, should enjoy this ofNew Mexico, 1996. Pp. xii + 160. book. Kenneth L. Hohnes, ed., Covered Maps, illustrations, notes, index. Wagon Women: Diaries & Letters Cloth, $50.00. -Bonita M. Oliva Jrom the Western TraUs, 1850. In­ The Galisteo Basin south of •• • • • troduction by Lillian Schlissel. Re­ Santa Fe, an arid area of varying Arthur King Peters, Seven TraUs print, Lincoln: University of Ne­ landscapes, has provided a means West. New York: Abbeville Press, braska Press, 1996. Pp. xi + 302. of survival for. many cultures for 1996. Maps, illustrations, notes, Illustrations, index. Paper, $13.00. thousands of years. Today the bibliography, index. Pp. 252. This reprint of volume two of the 80,OOO-acre San Cristobal Ranch Cloth, $39.95. eleven-volume series Covered comprises a large portion of this This appears to be a beautifully­ Wagon Women: Diaries & Letters basin, and it is on the history of illustrated history of seven trails Jrom the Western Trails. 1840-1890 this ranch owned by her parents that unifIed a vast continent into a features writings by six women. • that Mednick focused. An award­ nation. A chapter is devoted to One, the diary ofAnna Maria Mor­ winning photographer, Mednick each trail: Lewis and Clark, Santa ris, is on the Santa FeTrail. Morris, has lavishly illustrated her text Fe Trail, Oregon-California Trail, wife of an army officer, was one of with her own beautiful color pho­ , Pony Express, First the early women on the Trail to tographs of the landscape, petro­ Transcontinental Telegraph, and write about it. She was educated glyphs, and ranch life, and has First Transcontinental Railroad, and observant. supplemented them with historical with an additional chapter on the The volumes in this reprint series photographs and paintings. Mountain Men and the Fur Trade. are affordable for most private li­ Archaeological evidence hints at For the most part Peters has braries and highly recommended.

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CAMP TALES Trail held on July 11 and 12. ~rams from Simmons Point on On July 11 the celebration began JWle 9 to Lost Spring on June 17. -CHAPTER REPORTS­ with Grant and Stevens COWlty There were 110 registered for the museums holding open house. At annual Trail Ride that followed the Cimarron Cutoff 7:00 p.m. an auto tour oftheSanta programs from Lone Elm to Dodge President Helen C. Brown Fe Trail progressed across Grant City. but there were not more than PO Box 1400 70 riders at a time. Elkhart, KS 67950 and Stevens counties. ApprOXi­ (316) 697-4597 mately 40 people viewed DAR The main business was the wall markers and the still-visible wagon of the school that collapsed in De­ The chapter assisted the Morton ruts around the Wagonbed Spring COWlty Historical Society and the cember 1994. Lois DeWitt reported area. The group traveled on to Ste­ she had $803.00 in the wall fWld. U.S. Forest SerVice in hosting the vens County to view the old tracks "Forty-Two Days on the Trail" con­ but more is needed. Lee Ferdinand cluding programs in Morton there until darkness ended the offered to do the masonry work on tour. the wall providing he had enough COWlty. On July 13 visitors met at volWlteer help. Murphy'sTrailhead on the Cimar­ On July 12 the activities started ron National Grassland for free at 2:00 p.m. with free wagon rides It was stated that 20 chapter rides to Middle Spri.Jll;!s. Kirkwell on the Trail. More the 300 men, members are on various commit­ Cattle Company provided the wag­ women, and children enjoyed the tees for the 1999 symposium and ons. Accompanying the wagon Kirkwell Cattle Co. wagon rides. a meeting of that group will soon train were the USDA Forest Service One could almost imagine they be scheduled. Rocky Mountain Region Mule were back in time. At 6:00 p.m. an The annual meeting will be Octo­ Packstring with the packers old time chuck wagon cookout was ber 23 in Council Grove at Raw dressed in 1822 muleskinners cos­ served to approximately 280 peo­ Mission. The program will be pre­ tumes provided by Bent's Fort ple who enjoyed a perfect evening sented by Bill Borst of Emporia, NHS. Upon arrival at Middle Sp­ listening to the tales of Julia Ar­ who made a bicycle trip in 1995 rin~s. the travelers were treated to chibald Holmes portrayed by Ann from Santa Fe to Franklin. The a cnuck wagon meal. Birney and por­ nominating committee for 1997 of­ Randy Smith. historical reenac­ trayed by Joyce Theier. The night ficers are Steve Dodson, Lois ended as tunes. someoldand some DeWitt, and Joleen Day. tor. portrayed a Santa Fe Trail not soold. from a local band drifted trader. Other reenactors on hand End of the Trail included Les Vilda. Santa Fe Trail across the plains. The crowd Ambassador from Wilber, NE. and begged for just one more at least President John Barnes three or four times and the band 2213 Calle Cacique Eddie Carmichael. Clayton. NM. obliged until storm clouds gath­ Santa Fe, NM 87505 The Morton County Historical ered and darkness descended. (505) 983-5553 Society hosted an open house the Then it was all quiet on the plains The chapter conducted a field afternoon ofJuly 14. Several reen­ at Wagonbed Spring along the Ci­ trip on May 18 to Camp Stoney. actors. the Mule Packstring and marron River on the Santa FeTrail. located several miles southeast of the 1822 Packers. a travelingstore. Santa Fe near the small settlement a period photographer. and arts During the past year. June 1, 1995, to June 1. 1996. 462 visitors ofLa Canada de Los Alamos. There and crafts booths were on hand to was no business meeti.Jll;!. Every­ add to the festivities. registered in our guest book from 27 states. Washington, D.C.. and one got a good amoWlt ofexercise That evening the Santa Fe Trail Spain. Among the names was that walkin~ along side and in ruts of Modular Exhibit was dedicated. of George Strait, western Singer. the old Trail. Sadly. this area of This protect has taken approxi­ numerous Trail remnants and mately 11;2 years of planning. re­ Heart of the Flint Hills sites is in ~rave danger ofbeinglost search. and hard work by the Na­ President Donald B. Cress as a Trail resource. The present tional Park Service. U.S. Forest RR 1 Box 66 owner of the property, the Episco­ Service. and the Morton County Council Grove, KS 66846 pal Church. feels unable to con­ Historical Society. Afterward. Ray (316) 767-5826 tinue the burden ofownership and Kuhlman portrayed "Maid Marion The chapter met at 7:30 p.m. has placed it on the market. Need­ of the Santa Fe Trail." the story of July 25 for the quarterly meeting less to say. this pristine land is Marion Sloan Russell. Refresh­ at Wilmington school yard along most attractive development prop­ ments were served. the Santa Fe Trail. Helen Ericson erty. Texas Panhandle reported on the success of the Under the expert gUidance of President Kathy Revell 175th anniversary wall quilt show Anita Stalter, a resident of La 35ffi Cinderella held at the Raw Mission from May Canadaand a historic preseJ:Vation Amarillo, TX 79121-1607 25 to July 7. There were 9 entries activist, we explored this wonder­ (806) 358-7320 plus an 1886 friendship quilt made ful area. We accompanied. or were No report. by Don Cress's grandmother. accompanied by, a group of the Wagonbed Spring Ericson also reported for Sharon area's residents who were partici­ • President Ed Lewis HaWl, chairperson for the 42 Days pating in a procession honoring 602 E San Jacinto on the Trail prograrri series. An San Ysidro, the patron saint of Ulysses, KS 67880 estimated 6.000 people partici­ farmers. New Mexico has been in (316) 356-2141 pated. Programs that sparked the .the grip of a prolonged devastating The quarterly meetin~ was held most interest were at remote or drought, so the pilgrims were not at Ulysses on July 9. Plans were out-of-way sites along the Trail. only honoring the saint, but be­ fmalized for the 175th anniversary Don Cress thanked chapter seeching him to send rain. celebration of the opening of the members who arranged the pro- One of their number was on

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horseback, carry a large retablo of Following this presentation, in NE New Mexico are available at San Ysidro. The remainder of the Richard Flint of New Mexico High­ the Springer Chamber of Com­ group and our chapter followed lands University presented a fasci­ merce (call 505-483-0477). The along behind, about 30 strong. At nating history ofVasquez de Coro­ area covered by the maps extends various intervals the horseman nado'sjomada in 1540-1541. La from the Philmont Scout Ranch on paused, held the retablo high and historia de las dos barancas and the west to the Colfax/Union sang, in Spanish, prayersand sup­ the finding of the crossbow points county line on the east, and the plications for rain and good crops. along with horseshoe nails Colorado/New Mexico border on His followers accompanied him. prompted an active discussion by the north to the village of Wagon Participating in this procession our chapter members and guests. Mound onthe south. The mapsare j gave us a remarkable, intimate The chapter is indebted to Flint for printed on two sheets at a scale of rook intothe historic, centuries-old his generosity in sharing with us 1: 100,000. traditions of the northern New his knowledge of Coronado's histo­ WetIDry Routes ria y jomada. • Mexican Spanish culture. The President Janice Klein march concluded in a shady grove The June program celebrated the 3008 Anna Ave where the local people were having opening of the Santa Fe Trail with Dodge City, KS 67801 their spring fair. We were invited to a reenactment ofthe historic meet­ The chapter conducted its sum­ join them in food and fellowship, a ing in 1821 between CaptainPedro mer meeting at the Santa Fe Trail very heartwarming experience. Gallego and William Becknell at Center at Larned, KS, June 30, August 3 the chapter met at El Puertocito de la Piedra Lumbre, 1996. Included in the reports were Rancho de las Golondrinas during also known as Puertodel Norte and tours of the Santa Fe Trail con­ the summer festival and witnessed today as Kearny Gap. About 85 ducted in the Larned area for sen­ life in· a Spanish colonial village. members and guests were on hand ior citizens, programs conducted Chapter member Louann Jordan to witness the event. Linda Alaniz by the chapter at the Santa Fe Trail led the group through the exhibit directed the reenactment and J. D. Rendezvous, and the display case "La Junta: A Meeting ofthe Trails," Schmidt had the camera churning. constructed to exhibit the Henry which she had prepared. A video will be shown on November Booth/GAR stone at the Sts. Mary At our next meeting, September 13. Contact LeRoy LeDoux for and Martha of Bethany Episcopal 21, we will visit the 12 sites within more information. Church in Larned. the city which our markers com­ The July program was atten­ Other business included the ap­ mittee has selected for placing dance at the "Cultural Encounters pointment of Rusti Gardner to "crossing" signs. The city of Santa on the Santa Fe Trail" program at serve as chairperson of the chuck Fe has agreed to install and main­ Fort Union National Monument. wagon committee and the approval tain the signs; our chapter must On Sunday, August 18, the of the seminar titled "Murder on obtain funds for their production. chapter met as guests of Faye and the Santa Fe Trail" to be held June We remind all of our planned Pete Gaines at their ranch at Point 14, 1997, in Larned. Also dis­ celebration on November 16, of Rocks for a potluck picnic and cussed were upcoming Eagle wherein there will be a reenact­ cookout of food that might have Scout projects associated with the ment of William Becknell's arrival been used or encountered byorigi­ Santa Fe Trail and the procure­ (the "Entrada") at the Santa Fe nal travelers along the Santa Fe ment of stone posts for the mark­ Plaza, and a grand assortment of Trail. Point of Rocks is a magnifi­ ing projects and other limestone to entertainment for everyone. cent site of the Santa Fe Trail, fa­ build a retaining wall for the lime Corazon de los Caminos mous for its beauty, history, geol­ kiln near Burdett, KS. Approved ogy, and the Gaines' hospitality. It also were the designation of David President LeRoy LeDoux and Rob Cross as life members in PO Box 94 is a certified site on the SFNHT. Wagon Mound, NM 87752 Harry Myers told a bitofthe history recognition of their generous con­ (505) 666-2262 of the site and Pete Gaines led a tributions to the chapter's chuck Anton Chico was the site for the tour of the area. wagon meals and the presentation May 19 meeting with 45 members ofplaques toall pastand forthcom­ The chapter, in cooperation with ing chapter presidents. and guests attending. Anton Chico the NewMexicoEndowment for the is located on the hiR;h plains near Prior to the business session, HumanitiesandtheS unwest Bank chapter members attended the Las Vegas, south of the Santa Fe ofRaton, sponsored a presentation Trail. Pete and Faye Gaines coordi­ of Marion Sloan Russell by Debo­ program presented by the Santa Fe nated the eventwith Harry Meyers. Trail Center in conjunction with rah Blanche on July 5, at the Ra­ the 175th anniversary oftheSanta After a picnic lunch in the commu­ ton Santa Fe Trail Balloon Rally at nity park, the group proceeded to La Mesa Park Airfield in commem­ Fe Trail. The program by David K. the Community Center where local Clapsaddle was a first-person in­ oration of the 175 anniversary of terpretation ofA. H. Boyd, proprie­ historians John Lanp;ley, Miguel the opening of the Santa Fe Trail. Gonzales, and Poliga Baca shared tor ofthe trading ranche on the dry the history of the Anton Chico re­ The six-day "Auto Tour of the route of the Santa Fe Trail near gion. The area was part of the An­ Mountain Route," a special event Fort Larned. ton Chico land grant, a 387,000­ for the 175th Anniversary celebra­ The chapter was responsible for acre tract of land that was fIrst tion planned by the Bent's Fort three other programs celebrating settled in 1822. It was a pleasure Chapter was sponsored in part by the 175th anniversary. The site of to learn more about the settle­ the Corazon Chapter. The tour the Battle of Coon Creek was the ments of Anton Chico, La Loma, . dates were July 25 through July destination ofthe group on July 1. Dilia, Tecolotito, Colonias, and An­ 29. Bob Rein was the speaker for the ton Chico Arriba (the earliest set­ Michael Taylor of Springer re­ evening. July 2 past president Lon tlement). ports that USGS maps of the Trail Palmer presented the program at

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Big Rut northwest of Kinsley, KS. Susan Magoff"m's diary of her trip The rededication ceremony for Gaoriel's Barbecue, south of Of­ down the SFT in 1846. the DAR Santa Fe Trail monument ferle was the site ofthe program on For three days during the July 4 at Schumacher Park, 6601 East July 3. weekend celebration inUodge City, 93rd, willbe held onSeptember IS, The site of Sibley's August 31, residents and tourists were able to 3:30 p.m. National DAR Historian 1825, camp was the location ofthe ride a stagecoach and a covered Jane Rehl will be present to assist. .June 28 meeting. Members of the wagon beside the SFT ruts nine All are invited to attend. For more chapter participated in this pro­ miles west of Dodge City. Many information, contact Lou Schu­ gram as well. Clapsaddle was the said they would have preferred to macher at (816) 966-0365. speaker for this event. walk the distance to Santa Fe, as Quivirra A replica wagon of the type that the teamster did, ratherthan travel President Linda Colle was used by the 1825 Sibley sur­ the rough prairie in a wagon. 724 Penn Drive vey was on display at the Sibley A much-enjoyed chapter-spon­ McPherson, KS 67460 camp during Larned's Santa Fe sored 175th event was the nar­ (316) 241-8719 Trail Days celebration. The wagon rated trolley tours ofDodge City on The chapter had a busy June. We was reconstructed under supervi­ Saturday and Sunday. Keith sponsored six of the programs on sion of Milden Yeager. The chapter Chadd, Trail historian, informed the Kansas State Historical Soci­ also displayed the freighting arti­ the Trolley riders about the Santa ety's Forty-Two Days on the Trail. fact exhibit at Sibley's camp for Fe Trail sites in Dodge City and The program on June 21, "The this event. Ford County. Sibley Survey and Indian Treaty" lOodga City/foolOodga Hopefullywhentheaccoladesare presented by John Martin, took presented for an outstanding place at the roadside park in President A. Ted Mueller Elyria. On June 22 Britt Colle pre­ 508 Annette chapter's activities of the 175th celebration, the DC/FD Chapter sented "The Little Arkansas Cross­ Dodge City, KS 67801 ingTour," and thegroup toured the (316) 225-2371 will be one of the top chapters to receive special recognition. area, including the cemetery, site The chapter's membership drive ofCamp Grierson, the Stone Corral meeting was held May 18 at Fort Missouri RiveII' Outfitters site, and the marker cottonwood. Dodge. Stan Reed, Fort Dodge su­ President Anne Carter On June 23, participants met at perintendent, presented a brief 964 NW 600 the Coronado guivira Museum, history ofFort Dodge followed by a Centerview, MO 64019 Lyons, KS, to view "Artifacts from free barbecue lunch. Members and (816) 230-7228 the Trail." Wayne Smith also pre­ guests were then treated to a most The chapter and the National sented information about Cow informative walking tour of the Frontier Trails Center will offer two Creek Crossing and 's Fort by Reed. Fifteen new members Trail treks this fall to help com­ Well. joined the chapter at this success­ memorate the 175th anniversary. On June 24, the chapter spon­ ,ful meeting. Live music was pro­ On September 28 Jane Mallinson sored a picnic at "Ralph's Ruts," vided by residents of the Kansas and Lou Schumacher will lead a near Chase, Kansas. Ralph Hatha­ State Soldiers Home during the tour of the Santa Fe Trail from way, SFTA Ambassador, gave his luncheon-some great "pickin'" Independence to Johnson County, program, "My One-Half Mile of the was enjoyed by all. KS, highlighting historic sites, four Santa Fe Trail." Ralph's family has Our chapter's part in the 175th sets of pristine ruts, and DAR lived on the Trail since 1878. Mem­ Anniversary, July 4-7, was a huge markers. bers of the DAR were present at success. David Kloppenborg, cura­ On October 12 Pauline and Eric this program to thank Ralph for his tor of the Boot Hill Museum, was Fowler will lead a bus trip along work in preserving the Trail. A new in charge of the activities. Becknell's 1821 route from present marker commemorating Ralph's During the four days, the Jed­ Independence to Olathe. High­ Ruts and the 175th Anniversary ediah Smith Muzzleloaders hosted lights include Becknell's crossing has been erected. The marker pre­ a SFT rendezvous, as period reen­ of the Big Blue River at Aikman's Viously located at Ralph's Ruts has actors set up a typical 19th-cen­ Fish Trap and Byram's Ford, Beck­ been returned to its original site at tury encampment in the beautiful nell's crossing of today's Missouri­ the Plum Buttes. 16-acre wooded grove on the Kansas line just north of 75th St., The program on June 25 was Warner Angus Ranch northeast of and the swales in Harmon Park in presented by Robert Yarmer in El­ Dodge City. Highlight of the en­ Prairie Village, KS. The trek will linwood, KS. He spoke on "Military campment was the July 6 evenilll'!; end at Lone Elm Campground near Attire on the Trail." He has an ex­ special program by Mike and Olathe. tensive collection ofuniforms from BelindaAdams, the reenactmentof To make reservations or for more Trail days, and displayed a large the 1840s and 1850s Trail life of information about the tours con­ number ofitems which were only a ,. Victoria Westman and Charles tact Anne Carter (address and part of his collection. Taggert. phone number above). The last program sponsored by The July 4 evening walking tour The next chapter meeting is Sep­ the guivira Chapter took place on of Fort Dodge drew the largest tember 29, 2:00 p.m., at the Na­ June 26. A tour of the original site number of participants, an esti­ tional Frontier Trails Center in In­ of Fort Zarah and the Walnut mated 300. Conducted by Stan dependence, MO. Harry Myers, su­ Creek Station was led by Cleat Reed, the tour included a visit to perintendent of Fort Union Na­ Walters. Later, "Archeology of Fort the Fort's library/museum. tional Monument in New Mexico Zarah" was presented by Robert Friday evening more than 70 and chairman of the 175th anni­ Button, an amateur archaeologist spectators sat on hay bales to hear versary committee, will be the fea­ who was involved in the excavation Meg Weidner's dramatic reading of tured speaker. of the Fort Zarah and Walnut

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Creek Station sites. The program Wise) as a "Rusty Longhofer before were driven up from Texas, loaded took place at the Barton County his time," without any advance re­ onto cattlecarsatAbilene, Newton, Historical Museum, and afterward hearsal, a horsenearby gave a loud Wichita:, Ellsworth, and finally participants had a chance to tour neigh, much to the crowd's delight. Dodge City as the railroad ex­ the museum. Over 200 people attended the pro­ tended westward, to be shipped to The chapter has developed a bro­ gram. eastern markets. chure which gives information on Tuesday evening, June 18, was All three eveninggatherings were the Santa Fe Trail sites which are celebrated at Cottonwood Crossing capped off with a sing-along of covered by the guivira Chapter in under some very large mulberry many of the popular songs 01the McPherson, Rice, and Barton trees on the Jim Donahue land. era. The Trail riders endured some counties. This brochure was dis­ The early evening wind was totally very hot days, but the evenings tributed at the programs to anyone calm, then as the program got un­ were absolutely gorgeous. interested. derway a gust of wind shook the A special thank you to Sharon The chapter mowed the roadside mulberry trees sufficiently to tat­ Haun for arranging the agenda for park in Elyria in preparation for too most of us with a deep purple. the entire 42 day celebration. It the June 21 program and plans to A delicious chuck-wagon-style was a pleasure to have her in at­ continue the upkeep of the site. dinner was served to about 175 tendance at all three ofour events. The historical marker is in dire people by the crew of the "Flint The Cottonwood Crossing Chap­ need of a paint job and since the Hills Overland Wagon Train." The ter is the newest chapter in Kan­ state no longer maintains this site, program was presented by Kay sas, being in existence only two the chapter is raising money to Kuhlman portraying Marion Rus­ years, so our energy was at its paint the sign. sell, who as a young girl traveled peak, as evidenced by the wonder­ The chapter also helped ready over the Trail several times with ful cooperation ofthe various com­ the Little Arkansas Crossing site her mother and brother. Her recol­ mittee members who carried out for the June 22 program, but most lections of these travels were later their individual duties with enthu­ of the preparation was done by published in the book Land ojEn­ siasm. A sincere thank you to all Wilmer Ekholm, owner of the site. chantment. who had a hand in preparing for He does an excellent job of main­ Claude Unruh, a local farmer and the 175th SIT celebration and to taining the area. rancher living onthe locatiopofthe all who attended any ofthe events. We thank all the people who par­ original Moore Ranch, had on dis­ Bent's Fort ticipated in the programs and be­ play many artifacts from Trail days President Earl Casteel hind the scenes for their help. that he and his family found on the 5666 S 106 Rd The chapter is selling a beautiful site of the original campground Alamosa, CO 81101 afghan to raise money to mark and surrounding area. There were (719) 589-2061 sites, and paint and repair existing about 300 attending this program. Approximately 50 members and signs. The afghan is priced at $40. Wednesday evening, June 19, guests of the chapter met June 15 To order please use the form in­ was celebrated near the location at Min~s Thirty-Three Bar Ranch cluded in Wagon Tracks. where the Santa Fe and Chisholm west or Pritchett, CO, to tour the Cottonwood Crossing trails crossed about half way be­ historic sites on the ranch and to tween Canton and Lehigh, northof follow the Granada-Fort Union President Dr. Gil Michel 605 Park Place Kansas Highway 56. A barbecue Military Trail through the ranch. Newton, KS 67114 sausage meal was served by Rich­ Owners Don and Lolly Ming con­ (316) 284-0313 ard Denno of Newton to about 45 ducted the tour and explained the The Santa Fe Trail 175th Anni­ quests. historic sites. Dr. Dexter HessofLa versary is now history, but the A large stone marker was dedi­ Junta identified native plants and memory lingers on. In Marion cated by Ramon Powers, Director explained their uses for food and County three evenings ofactivities of the Kansas State Historical So­ medicine. at the following locations were ob­ ciety. He gave an overview of the At the conclusion ofthe day-long served with a much better turnout impact that the Santa Fe trade had tour, Lolly Ming and Richard than was expected. on the westward movement of set­ Louden of Branson, CO, spoke Monday evening, June 17, the tlers in the central and western about the Granada-Fort Union celebration wasat the original Lost United States and of the newly-ac­ Trail. Then members and guests Springs campsite, under large old qUired New Mexico territory. helped Don and Lolly erect a sign shade trees, with very comfortable John Martin of Canton, pre­ made by Leo Gamble of Spring­ evening temperatures and a deli­ sented the "Ed Miller story." Ed field, CO, to mark the site of the cious Mexican box lunch prepared Miller was an 18-year-old lad who Trail OIl the Ming Ranch. • ) by AI's Cafe in Lost Springs. was killed and scalped by Chey­ Some of the group stayed for a Entertainment was provided by enne Indians as he rode alone on cookout and camped overnight at Dick Varenhorst who portrayed the Santa Fe Trail. the ranch and went on the Carrizo the legendary Thomas Jefferson Dr. Gil Michel presented the country tour for more history the Wise and Gerry Harris who por­ connection to the next day. trayed Jack Costello, a gambler SantaFe Trail. As the Union Pacific DAR committee chairmen Leo . who won the Lost Springs station and the Santa Fe railroads ex­ and Mary Gamble have put two in a game of cards. Both Varen­ tended westward, they brought all markers on cement pads. These horst and Harris were attired in the trade goods by rail. Then itwas two DAR markers will be rededi­ authentic clothes of the period. As loaded onto wagons to be delivered cated during the 175th activities. Harris (Jack Costello) was describ­ to various destinations west. At The response to the self-guided ing his friend, Varenhorst. (Tom this same time Longhorn cattle auto tour July 25-29 was good.

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Work on signs and mapping is Franklin and Westport was estab­ Information in the letters states progressing slowly. A sign has lished in 1837." that the wagon train was com­ been put in place on the Ming Anyone who can help resolve this prised of at least 59 wagons. Ed­ Ranch and we are hoping to receive mystery should contactme at (816) ward Diveley and several others, our grant soon so we may proceed 325-7577. includingJohnFoushee whowrote with others. John Mark Lambertson, Director one of the letters, had apparently National Frontier Trails Center gone ahead of the train and were I_-.;H";",;,E...;.L,;,,,.P....W...A....NT_E_D__I 318 West Pacific attacked. The other letter, written by Jackson Febbel, statedthey had I recently photographed all the Independence MO 64050 left Chavez Creek that morning to known Kansas DAR Santa Fe Trail • • • • • go to Big Cow Creek. Diveley and markers. In correlating all the in­ I am interested in finding out if the others were over a mile ahead formation in my possession about anyone knows anything about the of the wagon train when they these monuments, I discovered great wooden arch that Marion crossed Little Cow Creek. They there may be three "lost" ones, Sloan Russell claimed she went were attacked by some 25 Indians whereabouts unknown at this under in order to get into Santa Fe while crossing. Diveley's wagon time. I am looking for evidence of proper. I have asked quite a few was found nearly a mile west ofthe their existence or confirmation people who ought to know if there crossing, where the Indians appar­ that they do not exist or were con­ is any reference to that arch else­ ently cnased him, and his body fused with known markers. where, and none did. If there was (scalped and mutilated) was Stevens County: Northwest cor­ suchan arch, onewould think that nearby. He was reportedly buried ner near the Grant County line others would have mentioned it. If at that point. near the Cimarron River (not the anyone can shed light on this, I Ifanyone has information about one at S29, T31S, R38W). This would like to hear about it and will the attack, map with location of marker may have been confused share the information with WT. places mentioned in the letters with the oneat Wagonbed Springs. My own theory is that there was (Chavez Creek, Little Cow Creek, Last reported sighting-1939 in no arch in Santa Fe and that Rus­ Big Cow Creek, and Fort Zarah), S2, T31S, R38W. sell, dictating her memoirs in old what the area where it occurred Hamilton County: George Mar­ age, possibly confused the wel­ was like duringthat time, and any­ tin's 1907 KHS report states five come arch that used to be in front thing else that might help me bet­ markers were delivered to Hamil­ ofthe railroad depot inDenver with ter understand the circumstances ton County, but only reports loca­ something she remembered from ofDiveley's death, I would appreci­ tions for four. These are at Kendall, New Mexico. I know from personal ate hearing from them. Thank you. Fort Aubry, Syracuse, and experience that people get con­ Julie Diveley Townsend Coolidge. The marker at the state fused sometimes. 4865 Mohave Ave line is a Colorado DAR marker. I E. Donald Kaye Las Vegas NV 89104 fmd no mention of haVing helped 1021 Stagecoach Rd • • • •• pay for this state-line marker, so it Santa Fe NM 87501 Samuel N. Wood sent some cannot be assumed to be the fifth 1 was not aware oj an arch in freight wagons to New Mexico in one. However, the spacing of the Santa Fe, but 1 suggest you read 1866, which, for unknown rea­ other markers suggests a state­ WUliam J. Hinchey's diary in this sons, were delayed. Wood followed, line marker. issue. Therein, when entering Santa overtaking them near Trinidad, Finney County: Pierceville, both Fe in 1854, he stated (emphasis CO. While out there he was kicked Cordry and Martin report a marker added), "The people thought the by an ox and suffered a broken leg. placed at District 7 School (S 13, Bishop was coming, but they were With Uncle Dick Wootton pulling T25S, R3lW) in 1906/1907. This mistaken, and so 'twas 1 had the on his foot and Wood pulling back marker has not been seen. honor oJbeingJingled into town and they poorly set it. Any help will be greatly appreci­ passed under the triumphal arches On every occasion I have to con­ ated. Thank you. even blifore the Bishop himself." tact a Trail historian I ask for infor­ Shirley Coupal Perhaps Marion Russell remem­ mationon Wood's Santa Fe freight­ KSDAR Historian bered better than you or 1. ing, but with no results. He was 5410 Ash Editor born in Ohio in 1825 and was Shawnee Mission KS 66205 • • • • • gunned down in Hugoton, KS, in • • • • • I am seeking information about a 1891. He led a very colorful life The National Frontier Trails Cen­ Cheyenne Indian attack on a without the freighting connection, ter needs help to locate the original wagon train near Little Cow Creek but that phase of his endeavors location of a Santa Fe Trail bronze in present Rice County, KS, on could be the most interesting. Any plaque. Someone found the plaque June 14, 1867, which took the life information will be appreciated • and took it to the Westport Histori­ of my great-great-grandfather, Ed­ and acknowledged. cal Society which, in tum, deliv­ Jesse Scott ward Diveley of Kansas City, and 812 Main St ered it to the NFTC. This marker Louis Morris from St. Louis. An • was probably stolen from its set­ article published in the Kansas Garden City KS 67846 ting, believed to be somewhere be­ City Times in 1923 contains two • • • • tween Franklin and Westport. letters written to my great-great­ I am looking for a copy of a Pony The 18 x 24 plaque contains a grandmother, informing her of the Express map, 24" x 49" showing relief of a wagon being pulled by death of her husband. One was the route in 1860 from St. Joseph, two oxen and these words: "SANTA written the day of the attack and MO, to Sacramento, CA. It also has FE TRAIL 1821 to 1872. This con­ the other was written from Fort the riders' names and the stops necting link of the trail between Zarah four days later. along the route. I am especially

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looking for the town ofShingle Sp­ 67124 Fe Trail, with many demonstra­ rings betwccn Sacramento and Robert L. Hervey, 9697 W Peakview Dr, tions and special programs. (505) Placerville. It was printed by W. R. Littleton CO 80123 757-6032. Honnel, Kansas City, 1935. Any Janice Huston, 2737 Rd H5, Americus KS Aug. 3D-Sept. I, 1996: Bean Day, help will be apprecjated. 66835 Wagon Mound, NM. Shirley Steele Steve Joyce, 3617 West 121 st Terr,Lea­ 42574 Saratoga Park St wood KS 66209 Aug. 30-Sept. 2, 1996: LiVing-his­ Fremont CA 94538 Thelda Kestenbaum, 7409 High Dr, Prairie tory programs at Fort Larned NHS, Village KS 66208 Larned KS. (316) 285-6911. _N_E_W_S_FT_A_M_E_M_B_E_R_S_I Mary Lyon, 2116 Calle de Sebastian, Santa Aug. 31.Sept. 2, 1996: SANTA­ I.... FeNM 87505 CALI-GON Days, National Frontier This list includes new member­ Ralph McCarty, 2420 Saunders Station Rd, Trails Center, Independence, MO. ships received since the last issue. Monroeville PA 15146 A three-day festival commemorat­ Those received after this printing Marilyn J. O'Brien, 2700-F Herradura, ing the Santa Fe, California, and • will appear in the next issue. If Santa Fe NM 87505 Oregon Trails with arts and crafts, there is an error in this informa­ Helen Parker, KCR # Box 6, Boise City OK carnival, and more. (816) 252­ tion, please send corrections to the 73933 4745. Betty Pepper, PO Box 397, Clayton NM editor. We thank you for your sup­ Sept. 1·30, 1996: Santa Fe Trail port. 88415 Joseph L. Puerta, Jr., 2624 PasadenaBlvd, Exhibit, Arrow Rock Historic Site, S Wauwatosa W/53226 Arrow Rock, MO. (816) 837-3330. Collingwood Grain Inc., 951 S Big Bow Paul Reed, 5020 Reno Ct, Las Vegas NV Sept. 6, 1996: Mahaffie Farm­ Grade, Big Bow KS 67855 89119 stead & Stagecoach Stop Historic Erma Heger, RR 1 Box 82, Hugoton KS Anders Richter, 524 E Coronado Rd, Santa Site, Olathe, KS, Senior Citizen's 67951 FeNM 87501 Day, 9:30-11:00 a.m. (913) 782­ Russ Food Center, 213 West Oklahoma E. B. Rohr-Bacher, 1868 Plaza Del Sur 6972. #129, Santa Fe NM 87505 Ave, Ulysses KS 67880 Sept. 7, 1996: Back to Boggsville, E 8 S P Betty Romero, 620 Arnold Dr, Lyons KS 67554 Boggsville, CO. Program "Kit Car­ Kenneth & Patty Adam, 1 Frasco Terr, Inez Ross, 614 47th, Los Alamos NM son" by John Carson. Santa Fe NM 87505 87544 Sept. 13-15, 1996: LasVegas, NM, Emy Lou & Jerry Baldridge, 5555 Wenonah Jim Sherer, 1908 La Mesa Dr, Dodge City Wildflowers, Music & Arts Festival. Dr, Dallas TX 75209 KS 67801 A family-oriented celebration ofthe M/M Elmer H. Bergner, 50390 NE 15th St, Alicia A. Tollison, 2501 W 127th St, Lea­ Pratt KS 67124 mUsic, art, and cuisine of the cul­ wood KS 66209 M/M Bill Bockius, 2605 Robin Lane, Musk­ turally-diverse region of northern ogee OK 74403 Kenneth R. Turner, PO Box 568, Goodwell New Mexico. (505) 425-8631. OK 73939 W. W. & Elizabeth Brasselle, Jr., PO Box Sept. 14, 1996: Boonslick Folk Paul Aryn White, Rt 4 Box 61-H, Santa Fe 2915, Santa Fe NM 87504 Music Festival, Stolberg Jackson NM 87501 Jay & Laura Crowe, 106 Ranchitos, Cor­ Center, Arrow Rock, MO, II a.m. ­ rales NM 87048 R_A.;,;.I_L_CA__L;;,;,;;E;.;,.N__D__A..;.;"R_..... 5:30 p.m. Ken & Connie Haas, 902S 14th, Lamar CO I_.....;.,T I Sept. 14-17, 1996: Barton County 81052 Everyone is invited to send notices Community College Tour, "Going Carolyn & Ed Kern, 420 Ave L, Chase KS for this section; provide location, Back to the States: A Trip Back into 67524 Time," along the Santa Fe Trail Mildred Limon, 6717 Laredo St, Houston date, time, and actiVity. Events TX 77020 scheduled as part of the 175th an­ from Franklin, MO, to Great Bend, Delfino & Kathy Martinez, 949 10th St, Las niversary celebration are included KS, led by David Clapsaddle. For Animas CO 81054 here. Remember this is a quarterly. information call (800) 732-6842. Jim & Cathie Ritzen, 4940 S Sinclair Rd, The next issue should appear in Sept. 15, 1996: Corazon de los Columbia MO 65203 November, so sendinformation for Caminos Chapter meeting, Galle­ Dr. Dale L. Schwartz, 438 Fox Hollow Cir­ December and later to arrive by gos. (505) 666-2262. cle, Prescott AZ 86303 October 20, 1996. Thank you. Sept. 15·Oct. 4, 1996: 7thAnnual Gerald & Mary Simmons, 30 S 74 St, Kan­ June I, 1996-Oct. 31, 1997: El Santa Fe Trail Bicycle Trek from sas City KS 66111 Rancho de las Golondrinas, NM: Mark & Judy Stiller, 942 Gervas Dr, Man­ Santa Fe to New Franklin. Contact Special exhibit, La Junta, Meeting Willard Chilcott, 885 Camino Del chester M0 63021 of the Trails, on the Chihuahua Donald & Nancy Sween, 460 Jamison, Este, Santa Fe, NM 87501, (505) Trail (Camino Real) and the Santa 982-1282. Bonner Springs KS 66012 Fe Trail, with emphasis on their John A. & Betty A. Wayne, PO Box 86, Sept. 16·21, 1996: Kansas Watrous NM 87753 impact on Santa Fe and its people. DaughtersoftheAmerican Revolu­ • This bilingual exhibit will include ) Robert & Joanne Yeager, 2890 Plaza tion 175th Anniversary Bus Tour Blanca, Santa Fe NM 87505 period artifacts and hands-on ac­ tiVities. Contact Louann Jordan from Leavenworth to Dodge City 8 (505) 471-2261. and return. Local guides and ., Jean R. Clark, 1226 Encantada Ave, Las speakers, stops at museums, June 8-Dec. 31, 1996: Exhibit, Santa Fe Trail sites, DAR markers, Cruces NM 88001 "Scenes From the Road to Santa Linda L. Corlett, 1212 Calle Luna, Santa Fe rededication of first KS DAR NM 87501 Fe: Sketches by William J. marker at Pawnee Indian Village in Shannon Dimitt, HC 1 Box38, Syracuse KS Hinchey," National Frontier Trails Republic County, and dedication 67878 Center, Independence, MO. of newest KS DAR marker at Kathleen Finger, 808 Ohio, Holton KS Aug. 24·25, 1996: Pecos National Ralph's Ruts. Contact Kim Clair, 66436 Historical Park, Pecos NM, 175th KSDAR Bus Tour, 1704 Candle­ Priscilla Greene, PO Box 8754, Pratt KS anniversary program on the Santa wood Dr, Leavenworth, KS 66048.

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Sept. 21, 1996: Santa Fe Trail at the Morton County Museum, Days, New Franklin, MO. A com­ Elkhart, KS (316) 697-4597. SANTA FE TRAIL memoration of William Becknell's Nov. 13. 1996: Las Vegas, NM, fIrst trip toSantaFe in 1821, which Coraz6nde los Caminos Chapter & BANDANA opened the Santa Fe Trail. (816) DaughtersoftheAmerican Revolu­ Larry Callahan, Las Vegas, NM, 848-2288. tion celebration of GallegO-Beck­ has designed a 175th Santa Fe Sept. 21.1996: SantaFeTrail Fes­ nell meeting and dedication of Trail bandanawhich features the tival, Overbrook, KS. Historical state highway historic marker and route and sites in New Mexico. reenactments, music, flea market, DAR monument. (505) 425-8025. The 22" x 22" hand-printed ban­ crafts, etc. (913) 665-7512. Nov. 16. 1996: Santa Fe, NM, End dana is available in e4!ht colors: Sept. 21. 1996: Living-history at of the Trail Chapter, Becknell En­ gold, turquoise, pale blue, laven­ Kit Carson Museum at Philmont trada into Santa Fe (reenactment). der, chambray, red, tan, and tie Scout Ranch, Rayado, NM, 10 a.m. Nov. 23-24, 1996: Ulysses (Grant dye. Price is $4.95 plus shipping. to 4 p.m. Quantity discounts are available County), KS, Wagonbed Spring to museum shops, chapters, and Sept. 21-22. 1996: Friends of Ar­ Chapter, 1:00 p.m. tours of the other organizations. Order from: row Rock Homes Tour, 10 a.m. to Wagonbed Spring Site and Jed­ 5 p.m.Sept. 21 and 12-5 p.m.Sept. ediah Smith Monument. Riley Arts Hot Air Designs 22. For information call (816) 837­ and Crafts Show. (316) 356-4700. 3231. Dec. 5. 1996: National Frontier PO Box 1867 Oct. 5, 1996: Cimarron County, Trails Center, Independence, MO, las Vegas NM 87701 OK, Santa Fe Trail Tour. For infor­ Sam Arnold, authority on Santa Fe mation contact Friends of Cimar­ Trail food, will give a presentation (505) 454-1755 ron Heritage Center (405) 544­ and taste treat. (816) 325-7577. Sept. 17, 1996: Ulysses (Grant 3479. Dec. 14. 1996: Christmas on the County), KS, Wagonbed Spring Oct. 5, 1996: Bent's Fort Chapter Trail, Morton County Museum, Chapter, 1:00 p.m. tours of tour to Russell graves, Stonewall, Elkhart, KS (316) 697-4597. Wagonbed Spring Site and Jed­ CO. Sept. 24-28. 1997: SFTA Sympo­ ediah Smith Monument; 7:00 Oct. 12, 1996: MahaffIe Farm­ sium, Boise City, OK, Elkhart; KS, p.m., 34th Annual Home Products stead & Stagecoach Stop Historic and Clayton, NM. Contact Dave Dinner. (316) 356-4700. Site, Olathe, KS, Autumn Faire & Hutchison, HCR 1 Box 35, Boise Sept. 20-21, 1996: Santa Fe Trail Pumpkin Sale, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 City OK 73933. Arts Festival and Historical Pag­ p.m. (913) 782-6972. eant, Council Grove, KS. "Voices of Oct. 12, 1996: Missouri River Out­ FROM THE EDITOR the Wind People" pageant. (316) fitters Chapter tour of Becknell's The 175th celebrations have 767-5710. 1821 route from Independence to been wonderful. The chapters have Sept. 21, 1996: Santa Fe Trail Olathe, led by Pauline and Eric just done outstanding work. We Story Concert, Susan Scott, Stol­ Fowler. Contact Anne Carter (816) had a great trip from Franklin to berg Jackson Center, Arrow Rock, 230-7228. Santa Fe with the Smithsonian As­ MO, 2 p.m. (816) 837-3425. . Oct. 13-20, 1996: Elderhostel sociates. Thanks are extended to Sept. 21, 1996: End of the Trail Tour of Santa Fe Trail. all those good people along the way Chapter meeting. Meet at 1:00 Oct. 20, 1996: Corazon de los who took time to help with, gUide, p.m. at the parking lot of the Na­ Carninos Chapter meeting, Ocate. lecture to, and visit with the par­ tional Park Service on the Old (505) 666-2262. ticipants. The Elderhostel tour in Santa Fe Trail near the corner of OCt. 23. 1996: Annual meeting of October promises to be another Camino de Monte Sol. Car pool to the Heart ofthe Flint Hills Chapter fascinating venture. Hope to see see Trail crossing sites selected by at the Kaw Mission, 7:30 p.m. you along the Trail. the marker committee. Everyone is Oct. 26, 1996: Santa Fe Trail Days Happy Trails! welcome. (505) 983-2994. -Leo E. Oliva

WAGON TRACKS NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION Santa Fe Trail Association o U.S. w PO Box 31 Ii: POSTAGE lil PAID UJ Woodston, KS 67675 a: a. PERMIT NO.2 WOODSTON, KS 67675 ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED , l FORWARDING POSTAGE GUARANTEED I • J

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