BRIEF DOCUMENT CASE STUDY ON THE IFAD-SUPPORTED SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA

BRIEF DOCUMENT Case Study on the IFAD-supported Slow Food Presidia Contents

Introduction 1

Slow Food and Indigenous Peoples 1

IFAD and Slow Food 2

The case study 2

Key activities 4

The Wichí people in Argentina and the Wichí Wild Honey Slow Food Presidium 4 Author Tullia Aiazzi The Maasai of Kenya and the Red Maasai Sheep Slow Food Presidium 6 This text is based on the full report of the “Case study on the IFAD-supported Slow Food Presidia” by Tullia Aiazzi. Co authored by: Francisco Prieto and Silvia Rota. Outcomes, Findings and Challenges 8

Editorial coordination Luis Francisco Prieto Conclusions 9 With the collaboration of Margaret Tunda Lepore, Valentina Meraviglia, Samson Ngugi, John Kariuki Mwangi, Andrea Amato, Julia Ridilenir, Juan Pearson, Marcela Biglia Layout and graphic design coordination Silvia Rota Layout and graphic design Mattia Dedominici, Claudia Saglietti ACRONYMS AND ABBREVIATIONS Pictures reference © Grupo Tsawotaj e Andrea Fernandez IFAD International Fund for Agricultural Development RMS Red Maasai Sheep pp. 2, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11 © rootsofafrika.co ITM Indigenous Terra Madre SF Slow Food cover, pp. 1, 2, 6, 9, 10, 11 PGS Indigenous people ToRs Terms of Reference BRIEF DOCUMENT CASE STUDY ON THE IFAD-SUPPORTED SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA BRIEF DOCUMENT CASE STUDY ON THE IFAD-SUPPORTED SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA

Introduction

SLOW FOOD AND INDIGENOUS PEOPLES IFAD AND SLOW FOOD

Indigenous peoples breeds and plant varieties. larger Terra Madre network, In 2017, after several years with title “Empowering are the custodians of It is clear then that supported by the Slow Food of partnership between Indigenous Youth and large natural areas, supporting indigenous movement. At present, IFAD and Slow Food on their Communities to which are biodiversity communities and their ITM involves thousands themes related to food Defend and Promote hotspots. traditional food systems of individuals in over 370 security, indigenous their Food Heritage”, to means preserving the communities in 86 countries peoples and youth, be implemented by Slow The rights of indigenous world’s biodiversity. The around the world. More than IFAD approved a grant, Food over three years. peoples to control their Indigenous Terra Madre 830 indigenous products are land according to their (ITM) network was born to already on the Ark of Taste own needs and decisions is bring indigenous peoples’ and 65 Slow Food Presidia fundamental to protect their voices to the forefront of the are run by indigenous THE CASE STUDY livelihoods and defend the debate on food and culture, communities to promote and biodiversity of native animal as an integral part of the defend their food heritage. The overall goal of the achievement of results the project was to and impacts. It studied empower indigenous significant changes (impacts) youth and their in the producers’ lives and in their communities, as well To protect communities, improve as the prospects of these their the livelihoods of changes being sustained livelihoods beneficiaries by over time and a number of protecting and cross-cutting issues. It is and promoting their food worth mentioning that the defend the heritage and uphold outbreak of the Covid-19 the sustainability pandemic meant the project’s biodiversity effectiveness at a community and resilience of level was undoubtedly their practice. affected by the global health and economic crisis. A case study was conducted Since 2000, the Presidia production and biodiversity. In to learn about the project has become one of the August 2020, 588 Presidia in 78 enabling factors and the most effective instruments countries in all regions of the challenges that affected the for putting into practice world were active, involving implementation process and Slow Food’s vision on food more than 15,000 producers.

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The first component of the project consisted of providing support to five existing Presidia and Key activities creating five new Presidia, which focused on the following products:

1. Honey: its production contributes to the biodiversity and environmental conservation of forests and improving food safety practices. There are three Presidia: Wichí Wild Honey in Argentina (a), Ogiek Honey in Kenya (b) and Nahua THE WICHÍ PEOPLE IN ARGENTINA AND THE Honey in Mexico (c); WICHÍ WILD HONEY SLOW FOOD PRESIDIUM

2. Waraná and Manioc flour: the first helps in combatting fatigue andin stimulating cognitive functions, while the latter is a staple food of Indigenous Peoples. There The Wichí are the largest before being packaged for sale. as Wichí knowledge, culture are two Presidia in Brazil: Sateré-Mawé Waraná and Kiriri Manioc Flour. indigenous people of The Larguero community in and traditions. The main the Gran Chaco region; the Salta Province, where the issues addressed included the 3. Black and the Blue Crabs: protection and sustainable consumption for the although some are in Presidium was established, hygiene of gathering, pressing first, improved food safety and marketing for the latter. There are two Presidia: Bolivia, most Wichí comprises approximately 50 and filtering facilities, and Providencia Black Crab in Colombia (a) and Esmeraldas Blue Crab in Ecuador (b). communities live in the Wichí people. In Larguero market promotion. central area of the Chaco, there is a group of 13 men Individual equipment was 4. Wild Fruits and Agave: the first for its production of preserves and dried between the Bermejo honey gatherers, nine of of crucial importance in fruits, the second for its contribution to biodiversity conservation, sustainable whom are youths. significantly increasing the and Pilcomayo rivers, in environmental management and production of by-products. There are two The Presidium’s objective is productivity of the nine young northeastern Argentina. Presidia: Gran Chaco Wild Fruits in Argentina (a) and Oaxaca Mixteca Agave to bring together in the same members of the group, who in Mexico (b). network producers, chefs, had previously only been able The Wichí have their own gastronomes, specialists and to work when the adults’ tools 5. Sheep: re-introduction of the indigenous Red Maasai Sheep for biodiversity language, which is also one of institutions who are interested were available. conservation and strengthening the resilience of Maasai communities. the three official languages of in preserving and promoting Traditionally, youths learn The Red Maasai Sheep in Kenya. Chaco Province in Argentina. the honey gathered by the from adults and elders about Traditionally, the Wichí Larguero community, as well where and how to gather combine limited slash-and- burn agriculture with the 1c 4b fishing, hunting and gathering 3a of wild foods. One of the most 1b 5 important products for the communities is the honey 3b 2 gathered from wild bees, known in wichí as Tsawotaj. 1a 4a The Wichí collect the honey from hollow trees where wild bees build their hives. Honey and wax are collected together and separated by pressing. Afterward, the honey November 2019-October 2020: in-depth Presidia case studies were carried out on Wichí Wild Honey is filtered three times through in Argentina and Red Maasai Sheep Presidia in Kenya, both newly established Slow Food Presidia. a cloth to remove impurities,

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honey in an environmentally collecting the honey and to packaging, in order to sustainable manner. plastic jars for selling it. The meet official honey sales THE MAASAI OF KENYA AND THE RED MAASAI Through the Project, training Project also supported the standards on national and SHEEP SLOW FOOD PRESIDIUM sessions were organized construction of an extraction international markets. In and equipment supplied, space. This improved the 2020, the Presidium started including dedicated clean hygiene level throughout selling its honey with the The Maasai people of Maasai traditional land African breed traditionally bags, specific drums for the process, from gathering Slow Food label. East Africa live along agreements, no one should kept by the Maasai and the Great Rift Valley be denied access to natural by smallholders in Kenya, in southern Kenya and resources such as water Tanzania and Uganda. northern Tanzania. and land. In recent times, Though less productive the Maasai have lost large than some other breeds, Traditionally, they were swaths of their land with the Red Maasai sheep is semi-nomadic people who access to critical water valued for its hardiness in lived under a communal sources, pastures and salt arid conditions and good land management system, licks to national parks and resistance to internal their livelihood relying reserves. This, together parasites. Other positive largely on cattle, goats with increasingly severe features are flavor of its and sheep. Herding cattle droughts, a consequence meat, which the Maasai is typically a male job, of global warming, has led describe as “sweet” and the whereas sheep are tended to a significant reduction quality and thickness of its by women and children. in traditional Maasai milk. Over time, Red Maasai The movement of sources of livelihoods. sheep almost disappeared livestock was typically The Red Maasai sheep, and were replaced by From 2019 to 2020, the Within the Larguero Presidium. The Grant based on seasonal with its red-brown fleece, flocks of Dorper sheep, Presidium doubled the community, women provided additional support rotation. According to is an indigenous East introduced by the British. purchase price of honey could not benefit from for the purchase of a mill from gatherers and the Presidium due to the for grinding carobs and increased the market traditional exclusion of tools for woman gatherers. price by 30%, while in Wichí women from the Exchanges were planned 2020 the quantity sold wild honey production between the two women’s process. Slow Food thus groups to strengthen before the end of the set up gender-based skills and consolidate harvesting season had workshops and proposed collaboration, but increased by 75%. exchanges between the everything ground to a halt Larguero women and the with the mobility restriction neighboring indigenous measures introduced on women-led Slow Food account of the Covid-19 Gran Chaco Wild Fruit pandemic.

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Key findings and outcomes

The Slow Food Kenya team long-term commitment joined, 19 of whom were proposed the Red Maasai would be necessary for a women. Youth involvement breed for a Presidium Red Maasai Sheep Presidium in the Presidium was a because of its uniqueness to become self-sufficient. specific commitment in and, considering the Two groups of breeders both groups and youths benefits that would be were identified, one in the have worked alongside generated, to help the Nakuru County Satellite/ the elderly to learn and Maasai people in the Rosarian community, and help in reviving traditions. difficult situation in which one in the Narok County The Presidium also left they found themselves. Olkeri community. plenty of room for female Realizing that economic By September 2020, participation, as women returns would be slow to the Presidium had 41 are considered to be highly emerge, however, they members, 20 of whom skilled in identifying the were also aware that a were youths when they best animals. The expansion of Capacity-building and young, currently marketing options exposure to the external represent almost 50% of One of the main for all Presidia world seem to be the most the members. They are challenges for the has been the most effective tools in this regard, highly respected thanks to Presidium was to find successful outcome, together with recognition of their skill in identifying the the two small flocks of also contributing to the value of one’s own tradition most productive animals. Red Maasai sheep that increasing the revenues and culture. The Wichí Wild Some of them hold positions would constitute the first Honey Presidium presented of leadership and all engage of their members. nuclei of reproducers. the challenge that honey in the daily management It eventually purchased gathering is a strictly male of the flocks. All Presidia two flocks of 10 ewes With regard to activity for the Wichí. Slow have put mechanisms in and two rams each for sustainability, the prospects Food staff decided to respect place to enable a high a total of 24 animals. are good for all Presidia, the traditional gender- level of participation by all especially in institutional based division of labor and members and transparency and environmental terms. engaged with the women in decision-making. During the first year, scouted for butchers and Overall, the Presidium The Project significantly in the Larguero community, The positive results activities focused on group other potential buyers for is operational and its contributed to empowering exploring the possibility of achieved in terms of formation, registration Red Maasai Sheep. members are dedicating the indigenous communities a link with the Gran Chaco production, marketing, and intensive training Information collected during energy and effort to where the Presidia were Wild Fruit Presidium. It also stability of membership (leadership, group monitoring in September ensuring its viability, established and offered an organized a number nd empowerment are also organization, animal 2020 indicates that both bearing in mind that, for invaluable opportunity for of discussions and a direct consequence nutrition and husbandry flocks comprised a total of them, tangible results will many youths to develop a workshops on gender issues of robust and sound etc.). Slow Food Kenya and 25 animals and a new round only emerge slowly and sustainable livelihood in in the community. Maasai governance mechanisms and Presidium members also of lambing is expected soon. over time. their native areas. women, both mature and adequate capacity-building.

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Conclusions

Strengthening existing and establishing new Presidia has proved to be very important for engaging with Indigenous People and youth in particular. The following features were visible in eight out of ten Presidia:

All Presidia are addressing the All Presidia comprise products that link between biodiversity and have a strong cultural relevance for environmental conservation and the Indigenous Peoples concerned, economic development successfully, represent their local area and are a generating additional income for key element for the food security of members while, at the same time, the communities involved, directly contributing to the enhancement and/or through income generation of their natural resource base

With their extensive capacity- All supported Presidia building work, all Presidia have are managed by helped empower youth and adults, communities or groups valorizing their traditional knowledge of Indigenous Peoples and enhancing it with new skills and know-how to better address their rapidly changing context: youth have thus become key players everywhere

All Presidia improved the Presidia membership is stable and initial economic status there seems to be potential for of members with better expansion across all groups, thanks marketing opportunities, to the visible benefits generated thanks to improved product through the establishment of the quality and food safety and Presidia themselves larger production volumes

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