CHINA’S MONEY MOVE/2 VF NET HITS $100M IN QUARTER/4 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • July 22, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty

Three for All NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren, top right, Cynthia Rowley, left, and Jean Paul Gaultier have designs on the fragrance business this fall. Ralph Lauren Turquoise, Cynthia Rowley’s eponymous juice and Jean Paul Gaultier to the Power of Two all launch in September. For more, see pages 6 and 7. U.K.’s Boots Set to Grow Footprint in U.S. Beauty Market By Ashley Moore The company, which controls a product presence in U.S. retail NEW YORK — Boots Group plc, the powerful position in the U.K. partners CVS and Target, and by

Y BRYN KENNY U.K.’s leading beauty retailer and a market, straddles the class-mass this fall, Boots beauty items will be maker of premium beauty products, divide in pricing, giving it an offered in 130 stores, up from 32, has targeted the U.S. for major undeniable draw with consumers. which will give it entry into the key expansion. The firm is boosting its beauty See Boots Page 8 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; STYLED B DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 WWD.COM China Currency Move Seen as First Step

By Evan Clark and Kristi Ellis al impact on our business,” said a Wal-Mart spokes- woman, who stressed that the retailer sources WWDFRIDAY WASHINGTON — Economists said China’s decision goods in more than 70 countries. “Prices in our Beauty on Thursday to revalue its currency for the first stores are not going to change anytime soon.” time in 10 years was a step that might signal more The People’s Bank of China, the nation’s cen- GENERAL significant changes in its economic policy. tral bank, said in a statement that the yuan would BEAUTY: Boots Group has targeted the U.S. for major expansion and After months of political and market pressure, be permitted to move up or down 0.3 percent from 1 expects the line to be offered in 130 stores this fall. China abandoned its pegging of the yuan to the the close the previous day. dollar, strengthening it by 2.1 percent to 8.11 for “It’s definitely the beginning of a new policy,” said A second wave of bombings jolted London on Thursday, but appeared to every dollar. The yuan, also known as the renmin- Ira Kalish, Deloitte Research’s global director of con- 2 have little immediate impact on retailing. bi, had traded at a rate of 8.28-to-1. It will now sumer business. “I wouldn’t be surprised to see a 20 China’s 2.1 percent currency revaluation was viewed by economists as a fluctuate against a so-called basket of currencies. or 25 percent revaluation over the next year or so.’’ 2 small, but possibly significant step. Critics of the currency policy, including some Nicholas Lardy, a senior fellow at the Institute Aided by an uptick in June sales and strong results in its outdoor segment, members of Congress, European officials, and tex- for International Economics, a Washington-based VF Corp’s second-quarter earnings rose 11 percent. tile and apparel manufacturers, have argued that think tank, said, “The body language of the state- 4 a lack of currency flexibility had given China an ment seems to suggest there might be additional Reebok International’s earnings surged 70.2 percent in the second quarter unfair advantage and was a major factor in the moves to come.” 4 and the company expects profit gains of 30 percent this year. loss of U.S. jobs and in a trade deficit with China Cass Johnson, president of the National BEAUTY: The multitasking Cynthia Rowley prepares to launch her first that reached a record $162 billion last year. Council of Textile Organizations, said, “It’s not a 6 fragrance under her own name in September. The currency issue has been among several big enough revaluation. Two percent is meaning- points of friction between the U.S. and China. The less. It’s really not going to slow Chinese exports BEAUTY: Ralph Lauren Fragrances hopes to increase its share of the Bush administration has pushed China to better down at all. We don’t know if this is a step or if 7 women’s fragrance market with Pure Turquoise. enforce intellectual property laws and has imposed they’ve done some smoke-and-mirrors thing.” quotas on $1.31 billion worth of Chinese imports. The Bush administration reacted cautiously. SUZY For now, the revaluation isn’t enough to influ- “I was struck by and greatly welcome their Camilla’s Coat of Arms; Lynn Wyatt’s annual Texas hoedown in the South ence retail prices, change sourcing decisions or re- commitment to use market forces to bring the cur- of France; Cecile Zilkha receives French Legion of Honor award. lieve pressure on U.S. manufacturers, experts said. rency into alignment with underlying demand and 16 “It’s a small step in a direction that will lead supply, and that is good for China and good for the Classified Advertisements...... 15 them to greater flexibility, but it isn’t going to global economy,” Treasury Secretary John Snow change the dynamic in the apparel industry,” said said at a news conference. “We will want to follow To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is J.P. Morgan Chase economist James Glassman. this closely and we will want to monitor it as they [email protected], using the individual’s name. “It’s not going to change the appeal of China and move forward with this new mechanism.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 East Asia as a source of production.” China’s currency move came as GOP leaders in FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 16. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional However, the revaluation might slow the gener- the House prepare to consider a vote on legisla- issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in al decline in apparel prices that has character- tion that would make it possible for U.S. compa- February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL ized the industry for years, said Tom Haugen, nies to file trade cases against China. The meas- OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill president of sourcing giant Li & Fung USA. ure is seen as an attempt to garner support for the Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior “I don’t think we’ll see prices go up because administration’s Central American Free Trade Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. prices are quoted in dollars,” he said. “Their cur- Agreement. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. rency would have to be revalued an awful lot for it Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.), who with Sen. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: to have some sort of impact.” Lindsey Graham (R. S.C.) introduced legislation SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North The incremental change, which could ultimate- for a 27.5 percent tariff on all Chinese imports, Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. ly make goods from China more expensive, won’t said, “If there are not larger steps in the future, Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West immediately affect powerhouses like Wal-Mart. we will not have accomplished very much. But 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- “We don’t expect the change to have any materi- after years of inaction, this step is welcome.” 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Little Retail Impact After London Bombs TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Samantha Conti

LONDON — The second wave of bombings in two weeks jolted this Quote of the Week capital Thursday, but appeared to have little immediate impact on retailing and other businesses. “For us to have a brand like Gap The four minor explosions — three in the subway and one on a and Banana Republic, we feel like bus — occurred about 1 p.m., leaving some commuters strand- a Russian violinist who has been ed as Underground stations were given a Stradivarius.’’ shut. One casualty was reported. “It’s business as usual,” said — Jean Madar, chairman and chief executive officer, a spokesman for Harvey Nichols Inter Parfums Inc. in Knightsbridge. Philine Dumba, director of press for Browns, the designer specialty store in Mayfair, said ac- tivity was brisk in the afternoon. PHOTO BY JENKINS TIM In Brief The blasts occurred exactly Tottenham Court Road is closed in London, near Warren Street tube station. two weeks after suicide bomb- SPSL, said it was clear that they said. “It’s clear the attackers real- ● CHANGING CHANNELS: PPR, the French retail and luxury con- ings on subways and buses would weigh on consumers. ly want to get to the psyche of glomerate that controls Gucci Group, said on Thursday that it ap- killed 56 people. The impact of “Shoppers returned quickly Londoners.” pointed Laurent Claquin to be communications director. Claquin, those attacks resulted in height- to the stores after the attacks SPSL projected that shopper 34, succeeds Thomas Kamm, who is leaving the group after just ened mass-transit security in earlier this month because it numbers would be about 15 per- over two years. Claquin was previously at Artemis, the private the U.S., particularly in cities seemed they had filed away the cent lower than usual as a result holding company through which François Pinault controls PPR. with subway and commuter rail outrage as a ‘one-off threat,’” he of both attacks, he said. He holds an MBA in international management, and has worked systems such as New York and said. “Clearly, people are now Luxury hotels reported no as a consultant at Coopers & Lybrand. More recently, he oversaw Washington. beginning to think of these at- major drop in reservations dur- communications at the Pompidou Center museum in Paris, and Those attacks virtually para- tacks as an ongoing threat.” ing the past two weeks and few was deputy chief of staff to the French minister of culture. lyzed transport systems in Lon- In the week after the terrorism cancellations on Thursday. don’s city center and forced many on July 7, the number of shoppers “After the first wave of at- ● MAIDENFORM’S IPO: Underwriters for Maidenform Brands stores to close early. The blasts in central London fell 23.3 per- tacks, we had 40 cancellations — Inc. in a regulatory filing with the Securities and Exchange Thursday did not have the same cent in contrast with SPSL esti- and 60 new bookings,” said a Commission Thursday increased the size of its pending initial impact, though traffic was chaotic. mates of a 50 percent drop. spokeswoman for Claridge’s. public offering to almost 12.8 million shares from 10 million While the immediate effects Denison said the fact that the “We were expecting more of an shares. The price range is still expected at $14 to $16 a share. of latest bombings appeared min- bombings did not take place at impact. The hotel has been fully Maidenform is expect to price its IPO this week. The underwrit- imal, Tim Denison, director of rush hour was cause for alarm. booked for the past six weeks.’’ ers include UBS Investment Bank, Credit Suisse First Boston knowledge management at the “It means everyone has to be — With contributions from and Goldman Sachs & Co. London-based retail consultancy on their mettle all the time,’’ he Ellen Burney and Nina Jones Sand-blasting skin with coarse, chemical crystals? How painfully passé!

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Origins tested Modern Friction™ on a panel of 54 women. After just one try, of those who had undergone clinical micro-dermabrasion, 94% said they would now use Modern Friction™ instead. rigins Natural Resources Inc. rigins Natural Resources ©O www.origins.com 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 WWD.COM VF Net Reaches $100 Million in Second Quarter By Ross Tucker $127 million from $105 million. Jeanswear, the company’s largest segment, posted a 2 percent sales increase to NEW YORK — VF Corp. on Thursday reported an 11 percent increase in second-quar- $597 million from $586 million. Wiseman indicated the warmer June weather had its ter earnings to $100 million, propelled by a pickup in June sales and continued strong greatest impact on jeans sales in the mass channel. performance from its outdoor segment. “We’ve seen very strong growth in our Wrangler jeans company The Greensboro, N.C.-based manufacturer reported earnings of 88 Mackey initiative, where shipments are running up about 20 percent year to cents a diluted share, compared with Wall Street analysts’ consensus McDonald date,” Wiseman said. estimate of 74 cents. Earnings per share got a boost of 7 cents from It’s a different story for Lee, however, where sales declined during several onetime events, including the settlement of income tax issues the quarter, although exact figures were not broken out. “Our Lee in foreign countries. The company had earnings of $90.1 million, or 80 business has been softer than expected this year, particularly on the cents, in the same period a year ago. women’s side,” Wiseman said. “Sales of summer products got off to a slow start this year, but we He dismissed any inventory concerns heading into what analysts saw a nice pickup in June, which helped drive our results above our believe will be a denim-heavy back-to-school season. “We know that previous expectations,” Mackey McDonald, president and chief exec- our jeans inventory [at retail] is in great shape in every channel,” utive officer, said during a conference call with analysts. Wiseman said. Sales for the period rose 13.1 percent to $1.44 billion from $1.27 bil- Harley-Davidson branded apparel helped the company’s im- lion, driven by gains from the company’s outdoor and sportswear seg- agewear division post a 4 percent sales gain to $181 million from $173 ments. Recent acquisitions caused sales for the outdoor division to million. more than double during the quarter, to $297 million from $146 mil- Intimate Apparel sales fell 5 percent to $223 million from $235 lion. Four of the acquired brands — Vans, Kipling, Reef and million. “We are confident in improvement in comparisons in the Napapijri — accounted for $138 million in sales. The North Face and second half of this year,” McDonald said. JanSport also posted strong sales results for the outdoor segment. For the six months to date, earnings rose 14.9 percent to $222.9 Eric Wiseman, executive vice president of global brands, said that million, or $1.95 a share, from $194 million, or $1.73 a share. Sales even though summer is the slowest season for The North Face, the brand continues to grew 11 percent to $3 billion from $2.7 billion. grow organically. “Our growth continued to come from expansion in our core sport Both McDonald and Wiseman said China’s currency revaluation would not likely and sports specialty customer base, driven by our focus on providing the most techni- affect the company’s sourcing costs. Thirty-five to 40 percent VF’s product is sourced cal and innovative product in the market,” Wiseman said during the call. from Asia, and China accounts for about half of that. The other standout for the quarter was the company’s sportswear segment, which Management expects a record year for sales and earnings, and now expects earn- includes Nautica, John Varvatos and Kipling. Sportswear sales rose 22 percent to ings per share to rise about 10 percent for the year. Reebok 2Q Earnings Jump 70.2% Iconix Set to Buy Joe Boxer By Vicki M. Young

By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — Iconix Brand Group Inc. said on Thursday that it NEW YORK — Reebok International has entered into a letter of intent to purchase the high-profile Inc.’s earnings surged 70.2 percent Joe Boxer underwear brand. in the second quarter, and the athlet- Iconix, which had been known as Candie’s Inc. until last ic giant revealed that it has started month, said it was negotiating a definitive purchase agreement, selling footwear at Target under its subject in part to the company’s ability to obtain financing, LogoAthletic brand. among other contingencies. The company, which expects The announcement came after WWD reported that the sale of overall profit gains of 30 percent this Joe Boxer to a New York-based brand management firm special- year, has aggressive plans to grow its izing in footwear and apparel was imminent. business at Target. Financial sources said the deal was expected to close today. “The sales and profit contribu- The deal “is a good one for Iconix because it is accretive to tion of the Logo initiative during earnings,” said a financial source with knowledge about licens- 2005 will be minimal; however, we ing and the Boxer brand. believe that this represents a long- Neil Cole, chief executive officer of Iconix, could not be term growth opportunity for our reached for comment. company beginning in 2006 and be- Shares of Iconix hit a 52-week high in over-the-counter trad- yond,” Ken Watchmaker, Reebok’s Reebok’s global ad campaign has helped fuel sales. ing on Thursday to close at $8.04, up 18 cents. Its former 52-week executive vice president and chief fi- high was $7.95. Shares rose to as much as $8.25 in intraday trad- nancial officer, said on a conference ing. The average trading volume is 213,633 shares; more than call Thursday. Reebok bought LogoAthletic in 2001, and uses it primarily to make jerseys and other ap- 760,000 shares changed hands in Thursday trading. parel for the NFL, NBA and NHL pro leagues, which it sponsors. Windsong/Allegiance Apparel Group bought Joe Boxer from At Target, Reebok is initially selling footwear for men and boys in the basketball category that is co- founder Nicholas Graham in March 2001 after the underwear branded with LogoAthletic and the NBA. Footwear for women and girls is to be launched later this firm found itself near bankruptcy following a $3.15 million judg- year, and apparel is planned for late 2006, the company said. A Reebok spokesman said the products ment that was awarded to a former licensee. Windsong inked an will eventually be sold in all Target stores and marked the company’s first time selling in that chain. exclusive distribution deal with Kmart in 2001, with the launch The Reebok-Target deal reflects a growing trend in the athletic arena as brands seek growth in the of Joe Boxer in time for back-to-school in 2002. mass channel. Nike Inc. recently started selling in Wal-Mart through its Starter subsidiary, and other Sears Holdings Corp. carried over the agreement when Sears athletic brands such as Danskin and Champion also have programs in the mass arena. Roebuck & Co. and Kmart Holding Corp. merged this year. Reebok, based in Canton, Mass., said profits in the quarter ended June 30 climbed to $37.1 million, Institutional investors, particularly hedge fund players, have or 60 cents a share, from $21.8 million, or 35 cents, in the year-ago period, and were ahead of analysts’ taken active positions in the stock, another financial source said. expectations, although last year’s results included a $7 million charge. There was speculation in the marketplace that Iconix is ar- Results this year were helped by increased operating margins and sales of performance footwear, in- ranging for a loan to help pay for the deal, one that would re- cluding Reebok’s new Pump 2.0 technology, Paul Fireman, chairman and chief operating officer, said in quire the company to pay between 4 and 5 percent interest. The a statement. collateral for the loan was said to be the licensing fees derived Sales grew 7.6 percent to $876.2 million from $813.6 million, and were aided by sales of The Hockey from the Joe Boxer product lines. Co., which contributed $48 million in the quarter. Worldwide apparel sales in the quarter rose 7.9 per- A hedge fund player, who asked not to be identified, said the cent to $248.5 million, driven by gains in the U.S. market, while footwear sales increased 9.1 percent to acquisition has little risk to Iconix since the licensing fees rep- $491.6 million. resent a steady flow of income. While apparel sales continued to show momentum in the U.S., the category is driven by licensed ap- But there’s still a question about Joe Boxer’s future. A parel such as the NFL products, and not the Reebok brand, company executives said on the call spokesman for Kmart declined comment. Thursday. A retail source said Joe Boxer remains an important brand “Sales during the quarter in Reebok’s U.S. branded apparel business were about the same as in the for the discounter. prior year’s second quarter,” Watchmaker said. “While this portion of our U.S. apparel business contin- Some investors theorize that Joe Boxer might at some point ues to be a challenge, it remains a significant long-term growth opportunity.” find its way to Kohl’s Department Stores, a hedge fund source Technical styles are driving much of the action in footwear, and Reebok’s Classic footwear products said. That possibility would depend on what the original had a sales decline in the U.S., the company said. arrangement was with Kmart. “We are clearly seeing a shift to more technical performance products, particularly in the U.S. mar- As for Iconix, the company has evolved from its roots as a ket,” Fireman said. “During the quarter, Reebok sales of performance footwear products increased 24 footwear firm. The company changed its name to reflect its new percent on a worldwide basis.” focus on brand management. Iconix still owns its signature The company’s new multimillion-dollar advertising and marketing campaign is also helping drive label, Candie’s, but along the way picked up Bongo and Badgley brand awareness, Fireman said. Launched in February, the “I Am What I Am” campaign features ath- Mischka. The brands are licensed in a broad range of categories. letes, celebrities and musicians, including Christina Ricci, Allen Iverson and Lucy Liu. Candie’s is set to launch as a sportswear line for juniors and For the sixth-month period, earnings grew 27.7 percent to $80.3 million, or $1.29, from $62.9 million, girls’ this fall in Kohl’s in an exclusive distribution arrangement. or 98 cents. Sales edged up 9.5 percent to $1.8 billion from $1.65 billion. WWDBEAUTYBIZ September Issue PHOTO BY D. HORII PHOTO BY All Dolled Up for Autumn Fall is filled with fashion and beauty Save excitement. Educate the industry on the Date your latest innovation to make your own style statement for the season. Issue Date: ptember 9 Se A Closer Look: Fragrance Close: The It List: Beauty Top 100 August 5 Bonus distribution: 7th on Sixth

Also in this issue: China’s hypermarket development, plus the billion dollar category that’s got everyone smiling.

For information on advertising, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher beauty & marketing WWDMediaWorldwide, at 212-630-4656. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 The Beauty Report Rowley: Scent of a Woman NEW YORK — Think you’re busy? Talk to Cynthia sales for Riviera Concepts. “The exuberant citrus Rowley. and the sexy drydown to amber — they’re all the The designer is multitasking during an interview facets of Cynthia.” with WWD in the sunny, honeysuckle-laden back gar- The bottle, designed by Rowley, draws inspiration den of her Bleecker Street show- from several aspects of her atelier. room and retail store. In addition to The gilt detailing on the iridescent divulging the details of her first fra- blue bottle mirrors a stencil design grance, coming in early September, on the floors of the retail area, and she’s noodling over ideas for her the clear-faceted cap resembles a A rendering of the next ready-to-wear collection (she’s doorknob leading into a private Skin by Therapy showing in the tents, rather than the meeting area on the store’s first floor. Systems store. Elizabeth Street Gardens, the venue The outer packaging, in a soft sky for her last several shows) and de- blue with lime ribbon and hot-pink bating locations for her upcoming accents, is in Rowley’s favorite col- wedding (which will take place ors, “the ones I never get tired of.” Linda Roberts Plans Growth mere days after the collection is The Rowley lineup will include a shown). Also on the front burner: a 1-oz. parfum, $160; eaux de parfum For Therapy Systems Line just-launched fourth book, “The in 1.7-oz. and 3.4-oz. sizes, $58 and Swell-Dressed Party,” which Rowley $78, respectively, and three ancillar- NEW YORK — Cosmetic Market owner and has written with her best friend, ies, a body lotion, a body cream and Therapy Systems founder Linda Roberts plans to Ilene Rosenzweig (with whom she a hand cream, which are all 6.8 oz. open six Cosmetic Market locations and 12 free- also pens a column for Glamour and retail for $42, $68 and $28, re- standing Skin by Therapy Systems stores over the magazine). spectively. next year, and she’s counting on one thing: that But get Rowley talking about her The scent will be distributed in consumers will come to depend on their skin care fragrance, and there’s an immediate about 300 U.S. specialty store doors, as much as their daily cup of coffee. focus: Two years after signing a deal including Bergdorf Goodman, “Why can’t I be the Starbucks of serious skin with Toronto-based Riviera Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Von care?” asked the Nashville native via a phone inter- Concepts, she’s launching what she Maur and Sephora, as well as view. Indeed, if anyone can make a glycolic cleanser calls “everything I ever wanted in a Rowley’s own retail stores in as indispensable as a shot of early-morning caffeine, fragrance.” Manhattan, East Hampton, N.Y., it’s Roberts, who has built a multimillion dollar beauty “It’s been my lifelong dream to do Chicago and Japan. Other Asian and business over 25 years and owns several retail spaces, a fragrance,” said Rowley, sipping European doors are likely to be including Nashville boutique Private Edition and verbena iced tea. “I wanted it to be added in the not-too-distant future. two Cosmetic Market locations in the Nashville area, perfect. It was a very personal proj- Neither Rowley nor Spasuk would and her signature skin care line, Therapy Systems. ect, and Riviera Concepts has been a comment on projected sales or ad- But Roberts wants more, and that includes great partner.” vertising spending, but industry opening up to 25 Skin by Therapy Systems loca- After narrowing down her favorite sources estimated that the limited tions across the country over the course of five scents — which include, of all things, distribution of the fragrance would years, as well as 25 Cosmetic Market locations. gasoline (“It reminds me of riding my result in sales of about $2.4 million at She adds that she hopes to achieve this goal with motorcycle.”) and chocolate-chip retail in its first year on counter. increased financial backing. “I’m going to have to cookies (“They remind me of my National advertising is not find someone who’s smarter than me with more childhood.”) — Rowley focused on Cynthia planned, but the brand will under- money than me who can be involved and take me honeysuckle as a defining note. Rowley take an intensive sampling program, to that really big level,” she admitted. Like Rowley herself, the juice — including a deluxe dramming pro- The new Cosmetic Market locations will follow by Givaudan — is intended to be ir- gram with Nordstrom. the store’s original format: a supermarket-like, reverent and playful. Top notes are Rowley doesn’t plan to stop with one-stop beauty shop featuring an in-store cafe of verbena, bergamot, white cycla- one scent. She said she would like and convenient perks (customers can call in orders men and red current; the heart comprises pink honey- eventually to do men’s and children’s fragrances, and ahead of time and have their purchases delivered suckle, neroli, muguet and freesia, and the drydown is she has plenty of inspiration at home in her two young to their car), and will average around 3,000 square of heliotrope, white musk and amber. daughters, Kit and Gigi. Rowley has just launched a feet. Lines carried in the stores include Kiehl’s “This fragrance embodies Cynthia’s effervescence,” children’s apparel line in Japan. Since 1851, Bumble and bumble and Philosophy. said Margaret Spasuk, vice president of marketing and — Julie Naughton In contrast, the Skin by Therapy Systems stores will average between 800 to 1,250 square feet and will sell only the Therapy Systems skin care line. The stores will feature glass fronts, slate floors, cor- rugated steel and red Lucite accents, according to TOP NOTES Roberts. In addition, treatment areas will be sec- tioned off by “electric privacy shields,” she said. A NEW LAUDER: The marriage between Tom Ford Last but certainly not least, salespeople will and Estée Lauder is on the verge of producing its sport — and Roberts is serious here — black-and- first offspring. While Lauder executives avoid white designer outfits topped off with Manolo talking about the project, word has leaked out that Blahnik heels (each salesperson will be allotted the expected first collection is taking shape. Ford two pair per year by the company). “It’s just so they reportedly has put a decidedly modern stamp on know they’re in something quality — when you some looks straight out of the Lauder archives. He wear nice things, it’s about how they make you has given a modern reincarnation to lipsticks and feel,” said Roberts. compacts and even a fragrance product of some And Blahniks are just the beginning. When the nature. According to sources, the project is on first Skin by Therapy Systems stores open in schedule to appear as a special collection in November (in the Greenhouse Mall in Nashville and stores in early November as a run-up to holiday. yet-to-be confirmed locations, Roberts will introduce a line of wearable, neutral-based color cosmetics RUSSO TO CLINIQUE: Giovanni Russo has been called — what else — Natural by Therapy Systems, named global creative director for Clinique and to offer customers a pick-me-up after a treatment. will lead Clinique's global advertising, design, The color cosmetics line is being developed by packaging, store design and merchandising a “custom cosmetics house,” according to Roberts, initiatives. Russo graduated from Parsons School and will feature mineral powders, lip tints, neu- of Design in 1988 and has worked at Travel + tral eye shadows, eyeliners, blushes and mas- Leisure magazine and the Gap. In 1998, he caras, among other offerings. The line will range founded No 11, a creative agency, where he was from $18 for the Lip Stain with SPF 15 to $35 for principal and creative director. the Mineral Powder. Roberts expects it to bring in up to $400,000 in first-year sales and hopes to boost P&G HONORED: Marc S. Pritchard, president of her Therapy Systems business to $4.5 million in global retail hair color, cosmetics and personal the next year with the help of the new stores (the care for Procter & Gamble, will accept the Pratt line currently does about $3 million in retail sales). Institute Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award at a Roberts said she is also looking at various mar- gala scheduled for next May 16 at Manhattan’s kets, including Chicago, Los Angeles and New York University Club. The event benefits the 16-year- for the Skin by Therapy Systems stores. old Marc Rosen Scholarship for Graduate Design. — Bryn Kenny WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 7

WWD.COM

Ralph’s Feeling Blue The Gaultier ad.

Jean Paul Gaultier Explores PRODUCT PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PRODUCT PHOTO BY The Pure Turquoise two-page spread. NEW YORK — In September, Ralph pared the fragrance’s positioning with The Power of Two With Scent Lauren Fragrances is hoping to increase that of Purple Label, the brand’s upscale its share of the women’s fragrance mar- men’s cologne with a limited distribu- PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier has always been a master of gender bending, creat- ket with the help of a certain semi- tion. “Ralph has been trying to enhance ing kilts and makeup for men and pinstriped suits for Madonna. His new fra- precious stone: Pure Turquoise. his image lately, and we’re positioning grance, due out this fall, is no exception. The scent was developed for “a sophis- this as the luxury fragrance in our port- The scent, Jean Paul Gaultier to the Power of Two, is not specifically for ticated, elegant and chic woman” in the 20- folio,” she said. women or men. to 45-year-old age range, according to Developed by Annie Buzantian of “I wanted to go back to my first idea of a perfume for humans — not a gen- Heather Simmons, vice president of global Firmenich, the Pure Turquoise juice is der,” said Gaultier, referring to his original fragrance idea 15 years ago that (to marketing for Ralph Lauren Fragrances. described as a floral chypre and was in- his chagrin) never came to fruition. “The perfume is about the idea of sharing. It She added that the stone “really ties into spired by the cool blue stone, according is not unisex. It is a fragrance for couples, a togetherness perfume.” the heritage of Ralph Lauren,” who has to Jennifer Mullarkey, assistant vice pres- Perhaps the most tangible evidence of this is the scent’s packaging. Its rec- used turquoise in his collections for years. ident, global fragrance development for tangular flacon is studded with tiny magnets enabling it to “connect” to its other Launching in Saks Fifth Avenue and Ralph Lauren. “It was easy to work off half, should the user desire. Neiman Marcus in mid-September, the the whole idea of turquoise,” she said. The outer boxes’ faces have fragments of the fragrance’s name, which is Pure Turquoise fragrance will be avail- “The Navajo Indians believed turquoise spelled out in full when the containers are put side by side. able both in a lower-priced eau was a piece of the sky that fell Gaultier uses the word “attraction” to describe the force uniting the two de parfum spray version and to the earth, so we started to parts of his scent. as a $350 parfum, which fea- look at the fragrance through Its name is meant to convey the strength derived from togetherness. tures one-of-a-kind “pure” layers; a journey of the “The name says everything,” said Eric Henry, chief operating officer of turquoise bottle tops — and, turquoise falling through Beauté Prestige International, Gaultier’s beauty license holder. incidentally, the highest the sky.” “It came rather rapidly,” continued Sylvie Polette, vice president of Parfums price point in the brand’s Mullarkey described Jean Paul Gaultier, who explained that the ideas of duality, meeting and one- history. The fragrance will the notes in terms of such plus-one were discussed. roll out to Bloomingdale’s a journey: Cool Sky, the “The name touched upon the math formula and alchemy. For Jean Paul, per- in late September and then top note, consists of dewy fume is about alchemy,” she said. all other U.S. doors in cassis, indigo violet petals, For the new fragrance’s juice, Gaultier wanted a scent that doesn’t evolve. October for a limited distri- lily of the valley and cactus “I get frustrated sometimes when I buy perfume that doesn’t smell the same bution of 926 doors. Despite flower; the middle note, when I wear it as it did in the store,” he explained. “I wanted one smell.” the fragrance’s limited dis- Sun-Kissed Flowers, fea- So Francis Kurkdjian of Quest International concocted a scent incorporating tribution (the normal distri- tures night-blooming leading notes of ambergris, musk and vanilla. bution for Lauren’s other cereus, orange flower ab- “From the outset, you smell all three,” said Polette. fragrances is generally solute, Bulgarian rose ab- BPI executives believe the market is ready for another Gaultier fragrance. around 2,200 doors), execu- solute and desert lily, “It was high time we came out with a new launch,” said Henry. “We haven’t tives are counting on Pure while the bottom note, introduced anything major for Jean Paul Gaultier since 1999 with Fragile.” Turquoise to significantly Rich Earth, contains earth- In the Gaultier portfolio, the new scent will join the women’s fragrance strengthen the company’s The Pure Turquoise ancillaries. en patchouli, silver birch- Classique, which ranks fifth in Europe and in the top 10 in the U.S. doors where relationship with female wood, polished amber, it is sold, and the men’s fragrance Le Male, which tops the charts in Europe and customers. vanilla bourbon and rum. “[The juice] is number one and number two in the U.S. stores carrying the fragrance, said “This [fragrance] is a very important brings in turquoise’s stone color itself, Henry. The brand also has the men’s makeup line, Tout Beau Tout Propre. key to helping us get to that 15 percent but also its sensuality, as well,” she said. Henry said the introduction of Gaultier to the Power of Two will be backed by share of the women’s market,” said Jack The company has planned both print “one of the highest levels of advertising spent at BPI since it started,” but did not Wiswall, president of the designer fra- and television advertising for Pure break out figures. He added the scent is to have high visibility at sales points. grances division of L’Oréal USA. Wiswall Turquoise, featuring dark-haired Russian Advertising, which was shot by Jean-Baptiste Mondino, stars two ballerinas added that Ralph Lauren currently holds a model Valentina donning Ralph Lauren from the Paris Opéra corps de ballet. In the still, they embrace; in the video, they 10 percent share in the women’s fragrance turquoise jewelry and simple Ralph move toward, away and then toward each other again, until they end as a couple. market and a 30 percent share in the men’s Lauren gowns. The print campaign will Web, print and TV ads will run, with the emphasis on the latter, in 7-, 15- and 30- market. While Wiswall would not comment make its debut in the September issue of second spots. Sampling will include Liquatouch, Sophisticates and mini sprays. on sales figures, industry sources expect Vogue, followed by the October issues of Gaultier to the Power of Two will be launched exclusively in France’s Pure Turquoise to do up to $25 million in women’s fashion, beauty and lifestyle Galeries Lafayette on Sept. 19. The fragrance’s introduction elsewhere in its first three months on-counter. magazines. Both the TV and print ads France and in other European markets will start on Sept. 26; the U.S., Canada Pure Turquoise eaux de parfum spray were shot by photographer Bruce Weber. and Mexico are slated for 2006. will retail at $55 for 2.5 oz. and $72.50 for In addition, the launch will be sup- BPI executives declined to discuss sales projections, but industry sources es- 4.2 oz., respectively, and the scent is ported by 20 million-plus scent strips timate Gaultier to the Power of Two will generate $45 million in wholesale vol- priced slightly higher than Ralph and 20 million scented co-op blow-ins ume in its first 12 months. Lauren’s current highest-priced women’s over a three-month period, according to Its launch lineup is to include one 120-ml. eau de parfum spray for 82 euros, fragrance, Romance. In addition, a $40 Wiswall. And, while he would not com- or $100 at current exchange rates; a 40-ml. eau de parfum spray for 53 euros, or Body Lotion and a Shower Gel for $37.50 ment on specific figures, industry $65; two 40-ml. eau de parfum sprays for 72 euros, or $88; a limited-edition 20- will be available. Simmons said the posi- sources estimate that the company will ml. eau de parfum spray for 38 euros, or $46, and a 100-ml. massage oil for 35 tioning of Pure Turquoise signals the de- spend between $12 million to $15 million euros, or $43. signer’s increased focus on boosting his on advertising. — Jennifer Weil image in the luxury market and com- — Bryn Kenny 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 The Beauty Report Boots Makes Waves Across America

Continued from page one markets of Washington, D.C., San Francisco, Dallas, Minneapolis and suburban New Products from Boots’ York and Boston. This effort will also help the retailer gather data on how to suc- Mediterranean beauty line. cessfully expand here nationwide in 2006 within these retailers. The growth looks to generate $10 million in sales of Boots branded beauty prod- ucts in the U.S. by the end of this year, according to one leading beauty manufactur- er. Boots beauty products first appeared in the U.S. in spring 2004 when it inked deals with CVS and Target. “Following this expansion, Boots should be very clear of plans for a scaled [U.S.] distribution by early 2006,” said Martin Waters, chief executive officer of Boots Retail International for USA and Asia. “Before we go full speed across the USA, [the plan] is to listen carefully to our consumers and make sure we get it exactly right.” Waters added, “It would be naive to say one size fits all, so [this expansion] is to test a broader spectrum.” Boots’ plan “is an indication of the continuing blurring of the lines between pre- mium-priced retailers and more mass-priced retailers,’’ said Wendy Liebmann, pres- ident of WSL Strategic Retail. “Beauty shoppers in this country are willing to buy the unusual, premium products in mass retail outlets.” The next challenge for Boots, she said, is “finding the right market for these kinds of products at these price points, as well as where and how far you can take it to be viable.” With 600 beauty items from a mix of six product lines that offer skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, aromatherapy and bath and body, Boots goes head-to-head with national beauty brands made by powerhouses such as Procter & Gamble and L’ Oréal. On a smaller scale, the Boots beauty line also competes with exclusive niche beauty brands, which help retailers set themselves apart from their retail competi- tor down the street. massage oils retailing from $2.99 to $19.99. Boots Retail International, which distributes beauty products globally and oper- Then there are skin care lines Mediterranean and Eastern, both of which offer ates Boots stores outside the U.K., generated $84.3 million in sales at current ex- body balms, butters, scrubs and washes that are infused with ingredients from change rates from more than 400 in-store displays in nine countries and 77 stand- Europe and Asia. Products range in price from $4.99 for moisturizing soaps to $14.99 alone stores in Thailand, according to the company’s most recent annual report for for body butters. the year ended March 2005. Sales grew 19.9 percent during the period. Boots Group Boots’ Sleep line, ranging from $7.99 for balms to $19.99 for starter packs, high- LLC operates 1,450 stores across England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. For its most lights products that are said to calm and relax. recent fiscal year, the company generated $8.2 billion in sales. The Botanics line focuses on the power of plants in skin care, cosmetics, bath and Waters sees the new expansion as an opportunity to “target the base in the mid- body, hair care and aromatherapy. All of the Botanics products range in price from dle” in a market “full of activity. It is a broad competitive set” between “the breadth $3.99 for individual eye shadows to $24.99 for an aromatherapy introductory kit. of brands and prices Boots offers” and other brands, he said. Boots’ No 7 brand addresses all aspects of a beauty regimen including skin care, As the British retailer continues to enter certain parts of America, it has tweaked nail care and makeup with prices from $4.99 to $21.99. aspects of its merchandising. Different markets and stores will stock a variety of the Boots products, Waters “We have worked hard to improve our on-shelf displays,” Waters said. For each said, adding, “it all depends on the competitive sets, demographics and how well display, consumers will be greeted by a brightly lit space that Waters described as a that store performs” to determine which store gets what. “beacon of light, full of life and graphics.” Asked why Boots had chosen Target and CVS as its American partners, Waters “We developed a physical environment for the brand both different from other said, “Target is a tremendous retailer and CVS is the leading drug store operation in displays but consistent with the [retail] companies,” he said. Trained beauty advis- the U.S and the most innovative in the beauty and skin care arena. We thought there ers will be at some Target and CVS stores — “like what you would see at a [Boots] in was great potential to pursue a partnership.” the U.K.,” to educate consumers about Boots products. Boots has no plans to launch a retail store in the U.S., Waters said. The setup for each display includes a 16- to 24-foot wall stocked with Boots products. “The U.S. drugstore market is very well catered for, [and] Boots’ key message is Some stores also have an oval table containing products, testers, samples and brochures. that we are committed to the partnership we have,” he said. One of the newer improvements to shelves is the cosmetics area for the No 7 Waters said he is considering exploring a move into the Canadian and Mexican brand of cosmetics. “It is far easier for the guest to shop within the cleaned-up wall markets, pending what the outcome of the U.S. project. space that is organized within ranges, such as skin care and color,” Waters said. Internationally, Boots has its footprint in Europe with the Migros chain in The most recent addition to Boots’ beauty mix is Detox, a detoxifying five-day or Switzerland, Etos in Holland, Unichem pharmacies in New Zealand and Watson’s 28-day plan of dietary supplements complemented with salt scrubs, face masks and drugstores in Hong Kong and Taiwan.

hit, likely because the retailer had not previously sold a high-end bar soap. “They sold out immediately. The Truscents Wins Costco Private Label Deal initial launch was 250,000 units of packs of 12 beauty bars for $10,” Krenke said. “Costco knew there were NEW YORK — Costco has found a supplier for its new after shampoo and conditioner. The retailer exited enough consumers looking for Aveda- and L’Occitane- private label bar soap category. Truescents LLC, the the body wash category six months ago. type products in their store.” maker of SaVon de-luxe beauty bars, has signed a To kick off products in stores, Truescents held sam- SaVon de-luxe became a rotating, or “spice” item, long-term contract to handle the estimated $25 million pling and demo events over the July 4 weekend. in Costco lingo, to keep the bar soap category fresh. a year Kirkland Signature business. Formulas for the beauty bars include The brand became more familiar to the beauty world Spencer Krenke, founder and chief ex- coconut and palm oil, as well as the high- when it landed distribution in Target in November ecutive of Truescents, said the deal with est percentage of glycerine of any soap 2003. It became the retailer’s best-selling bar soap and Costco was not easy to win. His family- on the market, Krenke said. The bars quickly was awarded 12 feet of selling space in the owned company, based in Seattle, was up have a blue citrus note scent that is crisp specialty bath department. against at least four other national soap and clean, not floral. What sets Truescents beauty bars apart from the manufacturers, including Dial Corp. and Probably to its advantage, Truescents rest, said Krenke, is the company’s commitment to Bradford Soap Works Inc. has its roots in the prestige market, bringing genuine specialty-brand quality to mass. Boxes of the Kirkland Signature beauty where it launched de-luxe, a triple- “Costco is trend-forward, and what a lot of people bars — they’re not called soap — are now milled beauty bar line in 1999, in retail- don’t know is that the Costco member is value- and retailing for $9 per 14-bar pack at Costco’s ers such as Portico and Nordstrom. quality-driven, not just budget. Total Costco store 457 stores in the U.S., Canada, the UK, Lotions and balms followed. But after sku’s [stockkeeping units] is about 4,000. The aver- Mexico and Asia. For its most recent fiscal 9/11, retailers’ interest in the line age number of items in a grocery or drugstore is just year ended Aug. 24, Costco generated began to fade. “At the time, luxury was over 100,000 items. Space is incredibly intense,” sales of $47.15 billion. not doing well,” Krenke recalls. That’s Krenke said. Krenke wouldn’t comment on estimat- Kirkland’s beauty when he started knocking on mass What surprised Krenke most about doing business ed sales of the beauty bars, but industry bars. doors. The volume available in mass al- with the club retailer was its commitment to quality sources said his deal with Costco is likely lowed him to lower price points to accommo- for its Kirkland Signature private label brand. “The the second-largest private label bar business, behind date the distribution channel without changing the last thing they want to discuss is price. At retail, buy- Wal-Mart. He has invested $5 million into the launch, product’s high quality, he added. ers usually start a conversation wanting to know the in raw materials, packaging and product. Krenke tapped his contacts at Costco; prior to price, the margin and the promotional budget you Costco’s Kirkland Signature brand offers products Truescents, he owned Aromatherapy of Rome, a high- have. But the Costco buyer doesn’t want to discuss ranging from dog food to grills to acetaminophen. This end candle brand that Costco stocked in 1995. Months price until they know about the quality.” is the retailer’s third health and beauty care product, later, de-luxe entered Costco and soon became a huge — Andrea Nagel BOOTS AND KIRKLAND PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID BOOTS AND KIRKLAND PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 9

WWD.COM Del Taps Arden to Enter Salon Biz By Andrea Nagel Left: Debi Foi and NEW YORK — Del Laboratories has made its entry into the salon busi- William McMenemy ness official. This past Tuesday beauty editors gathered at the of Del Laboratories. Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa & Salon on Fifth Avenue to receive Right: items from the manicures with nail color and treatment products made by the mass new Elizabeth Arden market beauty leader, which makes Sally Hansen. Nail Care Collection. Called simply Elizabeth Arden Red Door Nail Care Collection, the

line offers more than 128 items for the ultimate manicure and pedicure TURNER DAVID PRODUCT PHOTO BY experience, including 70 colors, as well as an array of base and top coats, nail treatment items, scrubs, creams and balms. Distribution of the line is now offered in 135 Elizabeth Arden salons in the U.S. but will expand to 10,000 salons and spas across the country by the end of the year via Del’s recent distributor partnerships. The salon nail business is one that’s roughly $6.8 billion, or about 11 percent of the overall $59 billion salon business, said Debi Foi, vice president, general manager of Del Professional Products, a new sub- sidiary of Del Labs. The Arden line could generate as much as $40 million in retail sales in its first year, according to industry sources. The nail care collection looks to help salons lure consumers into their business with outstand- ing nail and pedicure services, which almost always leads to consumers trying more expensive facial, massage and hair services, said Del Labs’ chief executive officer, William McMenemy. Most of the line’s creams and oils feature tamanu oil, an extract from the nut of the ati tree, which grows in Tahiti. The oil has been used for centuries for treating skin care problems. McMenemy stressed that the line is more than just beautiful nail lacquers, but is also highly focused on treatments, like its mass counterpart Sally Hansen. He said the collection is positioned to become the number-one nail authority in service and treatment in salons, competing directly against Essie and OPI. No fewer than three educators have been tapped to help steer the line towards what is new and ripe in the salon industry. Print advertisements featuring the new nail collection are now being featured in trade salon magazines. A consumer campaign will launch next year driving consumers to salons that use the Elizabeth Arden product line. As of May, Del claimed a 38 percent market share in the mass nail category, said McMenemy. “We are really on quite a tear.” Sampling Could Hold Key to Success NEW YORK — Trying before buying is becoming a reality in self-serve, mass mar- Berry said a good percentage of returned goods expenses could be reduced or ket outlets. eliminated under this system. “If both the manufacturers and retailers increase One problem endemic to selling cosmetics in drug, food and discount stores has sales as a result of consumer testing — and return costs are reduced as a result of been a lack of samples and the chance to road test new colors. Very often, plastic lower returns — the revenue stream could be redirected and focused to cover the color chips aren’t real representations of what’s inside bottles. Intrepid consumers additional costs for testing in the store,” proposed Berry. He doesn’t put all the frequently peel open packages to see the real product — rendering those items un- weight on suppliers. Berry also believes retailers have to do a better job of making salable. Retailers and suppliers each look to the other to buck up for the price of consumers more responsible for damaging merchandise. the items that can’t be sold. ●●● On the other hand, without sales associates keeping a watchful eye, testers fre- It is time to set up for back-to-school and the experts at WSL Strategic Retail quently disappear from stores. Missing testers not only mar the look of beauty displays, suggest retailers think about this season in a new way. WSL noted how last but reduce sales as shoppers cannot experiment with the items. year’s Christmas selling period saw savvy shoppers delaying But as mass market suppliers and retailers seek ways to ap- the purchase of Christmas presents until after December 25 peal to the tastes of more discerning consumers — often for- if it meant a better deal. Gift cards also transformed the mer department store customers — they are finding ways to Critical Mass length of the season as recipients redeemed them after the allow shoppers to sample before plunking down their dollars. By Faye Brookman holidays. Twenty percent, WSL reported, were cashed in as And most are offering money-back-guarantee policies in the late as March. event a color still isn’t right when shoppers get home. WSL believes the same could be true for back-to-school. Revlon, L’Oréal, Cover Girl and Maybelline are at the forefront of improving in- Kids no longer buy everything before school starts. Now kids wait to see what oth- store testing. Revlon learned its lesson years ago with ColorStay lipsticks. ers have and return for more shopping weeks after school starts. WSL recommends Shoppers couldn’t see the colors and opened up so many packages that retailers ensuring products are available through the season. And, pumping in new products put the lipsticks behind cash registers, which discouraged some consumers. When frequently so shoppers don’t have a “been there, done that” mentality is becoming Revlon repackaged Super Lustrous, the company put in a clear end to the lipstick more critical. At first blush, the need for trendy seems linked to apparel. Not so, tube so shoppers could see the real color. according to Candace Corlett, principal at WSL: The same is true for beauty, over- The advent of color-adapting makeups last year ignited sales of foundations. the-counter medications and even home decor. The concept, however, was a tough self-serve sell. The solution was to offer tiny samples within the displays. That philosophy is a major reason L’Oréal’s Infallible, a new foundation, is getting snapped up at retail. The fixture for Infallible features mini bottles of the 14 shades. The bottles are glued into the fix- ture so consumers can’t steal them. Cosmoprof Hopes Third Time’s a Charm Cover Girl was one of the pioneers of a unique method to encourage self-serve sales with its introduction of salable sample sizes. Shoppers didn’t flinch at NEW YORK — Cosmoprof North America kicks off its third annual beauty trade spending a dollar or two to try a new color. show this weekend in Las Vegas at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Convention And L’Oréal has devised mini boutiques that can be installed in mass stores Center. From Sunday, July 24, through Tuesday, July 26, thousands of cosmetics that have areas for shoppers to experiment with beauty products. and personal care industry leaders will converge to discuss the latest in wellness, With more chains adding beauty advisers back into stores, the hope is there hair care, spa treatments, packaging, contract manufacturing, raw material and will be a watchful eye to guard against pilferage. CVS, Walgreens and Brooks- private label opportunities the industry has to offer. Speakers have been booked Eckerd are among those bringing service back, as previously reported in WWD. to keep show attendees busy, such as Dr. Barry Sears, author of “The Wellness Retailers are also contracting outside firms such as Cosmetic Promotions to bring Zone”; Jane Buckingham, founder and president of Youth Intelligence, and staff to store openings to distribute more manufacturer samples. Martin Lindstrom, a branding guru. Last year’s Wellness Summit returns, a two- One manufacturer has a novel solution to getting more samples into mass day seminar covering topics on massage, recognizing the early signs of skin can- doors. Grant Berry, creator of Styli-Style, suggests manufacturers pay to position cer, applying the latest beauty business techniques to your business and treating a person in-store to maintain tester programs. “How much would manufacturers scalp conditions. Laura Zaccagnini, director of internal affairs and strategies for actually save while incurring less of an expense with much lower returns?” asked Cosmoprof, said this year’s show had drawn “unprecedented participation from Berry. “Plus, sales would most probably increase if the consumer were allowed to buyers to manufacturers to salon owners.” The show expects exhibitors from up play more. Also, let’s try not to forget that cosmetics are fun to shop and we to 30 countries. should not think of hindering the consumer in this environment.” — A.N. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM The Healing Garden Le Petit Spa Targets Male Clientele

NEW YORK — Le Petit Spa’s newest location, at 900 Second Avenue, has Taps Songbird Jewel partnered with men’s grooming brand E Shave for the so-called E Shave NEW YORK — Coty Beauty’s The Healing Shave, a hot-towel and straight-razor Garden and singer Jewel kicked off the Jewel shave given in a special room dedi- brand’s “Save Your Skin, Save the at The cated to men’s services. Planet” campaign Wednesday. Healing The move is part of a wider effort Coty has recruited the songbird/poet Garden to have the business appeal to male as the face of The Healing Garden event. clients, Le Petit Spa executives Organics’ advertising campaign, slated to noted. break in September. “We’re trying to build our men’s “As a songwriter, it’s hard to find part- clientele,” said Howard Kohlenberg, nerships you can feel good about,” said executive vice president and general Jewel. She acknowledged that when it manager of The Spafumerie & Le The men’s treatment room at Le Petit comes to choosing beauty products, “a lot Petit Spa — a space whose 600- Spa’s newest location. of it comes down to convenience.” Jewel square-foot retail storefront conceals added that The Healing Garden Organics a 2,500-square-foot trove of six private Howard Kohlenberg’s wife, line makes it easy to do something good treatment rooms along winding corri- Christine, is creative director. for the environment, noting that it’s luxu- dors. “[Attracting men] is a tougher Merchandised at the second La rious and also supports organic farmers. thing to do, that’s why we did the Petit Spa are brands like “You’ll like it, selfishly, because it smells men’s treatment room. Dermalogica, L’Occitane, really good,” said Jewel. But,” he added, “we think Nickel, MD Skincare, John Galantic, president of Coty it’s really up-and-coming. Tocca, Slatkin & Co., Beauty U.S., gushed that he’s a fan of the Men are taking better Korres, Redken, I Colon- singer’s and said, “It’s very rare that you care of their skin.” iali and Geo. F. Trumper. get great product and combine it with a The location, which is Also lining shelves are great cause and a great spokesperson.” on the corner of 48th fragrances such as Polo, During the print campaign, Coty will ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY Street and Second Ave- Armani Eau Pour Homme, donate a portion of proceeds from the Organics Wild Honey, this month. Jewel nue, is Kohlenberg’s sec- Ralph Lauren Blue and sale of Organics products to the Nature — who is finishing her sixth album, due ond spa. Kohlenberg’s fa- Fracas. Conservancy. The Healing Garden will to be released this fall — has received ther, cosmetics industry Howard Kohlenberg launch the effort in September with a accolades for her role as a humanitarian. veteran Stanley Kohlenberg, opened expects the new Le Petit Spa to gen- gift-with-purchase promotion featuring a In addition to her new project, she has the family-run company’s first per- erate between $500,000 and $1 mil- bracelet — made of organic materials — worked with the Higher Ground for fumery and spa, a 2,000-square-foot lion in first-year sales. designed by Jewel. The singer will wear Humanity’s Clearwater Project, an or- space at 140 East 34th Street, in 1998. — Matthew W. Evans the bracelet in print ads that are slated ganization that provides safe, clean to break in beauty books that month. drinking water to impoverished areas of The Healing Garden introduced its the world. first organic specialty bath collection, — Molly Prior The Thymes Turns Over Jonathan Product Breaks QVC Record New Leaf for Brand Image NEW YORK — When QVC host Lisa NEW YORK — Paying sharp atten- lection feature delicate die-cut de- Robertson announced that another tion to detail has made The Thymes tail with an embossed pattern featur- item from Jonathan Antin’s name- a $40 million brand. All work and no ing a gloss finish. Ribbon detail on sake hair care collection had sold play, however, can take a toll on ap- the Filigree product is die-cut velvet out several minutes into its introduc- pearances. So when the maker of ribbon. Boxes are lined with a light tion during an hour-long show, fragranced home, bath and body blue hue. Antin’s jaw dropped. “I was feeling a products recently took a look in the The Thymes tapped Duffy & little scattered,” acknowledged mirror, it realized a makeover was Partners, a branding and design firm Antin, recounting his appearance on in order. based in Minneapolis for the job. the network Friday evening. This fall The Thymes will unveil a Duffy & Partners’ client list includes Calling upon acting exercises he whole new look, from its brand logo, Façonnable and Diet Coke. learned as a teenager, Antin chan- to redesigned bath and body collec- According to Christiana Kippels, PHOTO BY VIRGINIA SHERWOOD PHOTO BY neled his nervous energy and “got Jonathan Antin made his debut on QVC June 8 tions, to a brand book — a stylized vice president, marketing, The into the moment.” By the end of the with host Lisa Mason. pamphlet of photos, descriptions and Thymes won’t increase prices of hour, QVC had sold more than 35,000 prices of all the company’s products. products to offset costs of the brand units of Jonathan Product. More importantly, declared Antin, the show marked The brand evolution, as the company upgrade. Instead, “we are able to the most successful hair care launch in QVC’s 19-year history. Neither QVC nor is calling this facelift, looks to keep make efficiencies in other areas to Antin would comment on sales, but industry sources estimate the products rang the 23-year-old firm in line with the invest in the designing, such as how up $1.2 million in sales. times, so to speak. we manufacture, and packaging ele- “It definitely ranked within the top two to three experiences of my life,” said The logo change, for one, aims to ments,” said Kippels. Antin during a phone interview Monday. “Right next to being born and some- illustrate The In addition to where in between opening my salon and signing a product deal.” Thymes’ connec- painting a glossier Antin runs the hair care business alongside two beauty industry virtuosos: tion with nature by image for them- Tina Hedges, executive vice president of marketing and development for using a “T” deco- selves, The Jonathan Product, and Beth Ann Catalano, executive vice president of sales and rated with leaves Thymes’ upgrade education for the company. and a “Y” with a looks to boost sales, Prior to the show, Antin said he told Hedges and Catalano he did not want to leaf as one of the which remained hear about sales goals. “All I wanted to do was be a hairstylist and demonstrate how letter’s stems. And, flat from 2003 to well and easy Jonathan Product works,” he said, adding he tried to avert his eyes beginning in Sept- 2004. from the television monitors while on the air. Over the hour, Antin demonstrated ember, the brand “That shows

nine of the collection’s 15 items on nine models. Price points ranged from $26 for book will be mail- TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY how competitive Dirt Texturizing Paste to $44 for two bottles of Create Volume Thickening Foam. ed to retailers all The new Filigree line. the environment Due to a flurry of Internet purchases several days prior to the July 15 show, across the country, has become,” said QVC had a limited inventory of Jonathan Product. However, QVC executives de- including the 5,000 specialty stores Kippels. The Thymes is expecting a cided to allot Antin a full hour — rather than trim airtime — and implement a currently selling The Thymes’ 20 percent sales increase in 2005, waiting list for the products. products. compared with last year’s second Antin, who counts Kate Bosworth among his clientele, is certainly no stranger Simultaneously, four of The half. Distribution also looks to grow to the bright lights. His headline role in Bravo’s television series “Blow Out” cata- Thymes’ bath and body collections during the period by as much as 15 pulted the Hollywood hairstylist to reality-TV stardom. will be redesigned. Olive Leaf and percent. The company aims to grow The second season of “Blow Out” chronicles the making of Jonathan Product. Filigree are the company’s nod to 50 percent in sales over the next five The “Blow Out” camera crew also documented Antin’s debut on QVC June 8. fashion’s influence on home design. years, added Kippels. — M.P. The unit cartons in the Filigree col- — Andrea Nagel WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 11 WWD.COM Media/Advertising September Men’s Mags Cover the Bases NEW YORK — September is not quite the make-or- break month for men’s magazines that it is for THE MEN OF SEPTEMBER women’s fashion books, but it’s a big month all the same — and especially big for brand-new Men’s Best Life: Mark Ruffalo Vogue, which arrives on newsstands this fall for the Cargo: Andy Roddick first time. Complex: Kanye West If the cover of a debut issue is always a mission statement of sorts, then the Condé Nast spin-off ’s Details: Matthew Fox cover, with actor George Clooney, signals a desire to ap- Esquire: Josh Lucas, Pharrell Williams and Luke Wilson peal to a slightly older demographic and a commitment FHM: Leeann Tweeden to classic elegance rather than pop-culture ephemera. Details, on the other hand, has no hang-ups about GQ: Tom Brady the popular world: hence its September cover fea- Maxim: Kelly Monaco turing Matthew Fox, of ABC’s “Lost.” Meanwhile, Men’s Health: Mark Wahlberg GQ, which seems to reinvent itself on a regular Men’s Journal: Ferrari Testarossa basis, uses September to reestablish its manly bona fides in the person of Patriots quarterback Tom Men’s Vogue: George Clooney Brady. Cargo also has an athlete, tennis star Andy Playboy: Jessica Canseco Roddick, on the title’s first celebrity cover. Stuff: Kelly Carlson Elsewhere, the trio of Josh Lucas, Pharrell Williams and Luke Wilson front Esquire’s annual “Best-Dressed Men” issue, while Maxim, Stuff, FHM and Playboy all feature — what else? — cheesecake. There are curves of a different sort on September Men’s Journal: The cover of the annual Style & Design issue shows a 1958 250 Testarossa designed George Tom by Enzo Ferrari. — Jeff Bercovici Luke Wilsonilson Clooney Brady

JOLIE SET FREE: Who is Nadine Haobsh? Where is of his new duties will require more time on the road, he said, “Traveling more would be Nadine Haobsh? And when will she pop up next? impossible. I think I fly more than a flight attendant.” —Jeff Bercovici These were the questions bouncing around the MEMO PAD magazine world on Thursday, after Haobsh, an associate DRESS CODE DECODED: On Thursday, a curious memo was circulated within Fairchild, beauty editor at Ladies’ Home Journal, was outed as the parent company of WWD and magazines like W and Vitals. Gawker.com obtained a blogger Jolienyc.com by The New York Post. Though her revelations about beauty editors, copy, posting it under the heading “Fairchild: Fashionistas on Staff May Not Dress Like publicists and their swag-happy behavior — no secret to anyone who’s ever worked in the Fashionistas.” The memo, sent to current Fairchild interns and intern supervisors, was industry — seemed harmless enough, her employers evidently didn’t agree. The Web site billed as a “friendly reminder” of the Fairchild dress code. Which is interesting, since was shut down on Wednesday. The Post ran its story Thursday, and calls to Haobsh at in the 14 suggestions listed on the official intern supervisor checklist used at Fairchild, Ladies’ Home Journal that afternoon were rerouted to another employee. At that point, a there is no mention of dress. spokeswoman for the magazine declined to comment, but a woman who knows the elusive In fact, until now, Fairchild interns have only been able to turn to former interns for blogger said she had resigned and was headed to Seventeen. specific instructions on what to wear. “I was told to wear flip-flops and jeans,” said a W Well, not exactly. A Seventeen spokeswoman responded with this statement: “The fashion closet intern. beauty editor position is one that requires a high level of professionalism and good “The struggle is to combine cute with comfort,” explained another. Why a struggle? judgment. Based on new information that was learned today, we have rescinded the A trio of interns pointed out that they spend most of their days lifting, unloading and offer.” Ouch. repacking heavy trunks and dusty garment bags. They also rarely sit down, except Haobsh is only the latest in a series of bloggers who’ve been professionally slapped during lunch. “People would wear heels the first day, and by the end of the day, they’d for their online activity. Not that anyone should worry too much about her landing on be limping,” said one. her feet. As of yesterday evening, she already had a publicist — her sorority sister, The memo suggested a very different style of dress, one reminiscent of those Jessie Fuller — and meetings lined up with at least three agents. — Sara James buttoned-up, bygone Fifties. No minis, tank tops or flip-flops (editors and full-time staffers exempted, of course). As for that fickle fad of fashion, the skirt length, the MADONNA’S MOLE: Speaking of people’s careers being jolted by their Internet memo didn’t mince words: “Your skirt should come at least to your knees while you are postings…a freelancer in Condé Nast’s corporate sales division was recently fired after standing. While you’re seated, your thighs should be covered.” And slits in one’s skirt he was caught disseminating Vogue’s August cover story on the Web. The freelancer, merely “to facilitate a view of your legs”…well, kiss that career goodbye. Men, said to be a rabid Madonna fan, evidently got a hold of an early firstbound copy, particularly those editorial types in their tanks and tight pants, were not addressed, but scanned the story and posted it on a fan site weeks before the issue hit newsstands. can navy blazers and khakis be far behind? The photos then bounced around online, landing on message boards and gossip sites The memo did, after all, say: “Business casual is crisp, neat and should look spoiling Vogue’s surprise. A spokeswoman for the company declined to comment, but appropriate even for a chance meeting with a ceo.” Because you never know who you’ll one can’t help but wonder, would the repercussions have been the same if the encounter in the elevator while carting around that 30 pound trunk of Chloé. — S.J. freelancer spirited out an early copy of, say, Gourmet? (Condé Nast, Vogue and Gourmet are, like WWD, part of Advance Publications Inc.) — S.J. SCREEN TEST: Talk about fact following fiction. On Monday, long-running ABC soap “All My Children” is taking a novel approach to a launch party: inviting a group of real beauty AN ELLE OF A PROMOTION: In many ways and for many Gilles editors to a fictional launch party for a real fragrance. Lost yet? The scent, Fusion, is part years, Gilles Bensimon’s name has been synonymous with Bensimon of a storyline on the soap, but like its predecessor — Enchantment, another fragrance Elle magazine. But with Bensimon’s Social Security presented in a storyline last year —it will make its debut in Wal-Mart stores this fall. The eligibility just a few years away, it’s a state of affairs that launch event was cooked up by ABC and Kaplow Communications. — Julie Naughton clearly couldn’t continue forever. On Thursday, Elle parent Hachette Filipacchi Media acknowledged this, promoting SIGN LANGUAGE: Need to know a fashion designer’s birthday in a jiffy? Try dialing Kristina Bensimon from publication director of Elle U.S. to O’Neill, fashion features director at Harper’s Bazaar. She just wrapped up researching a international creative director of all 37 worldwide editions. well feature for Bazaar’s September issue with designers and models representing the 12 “Gilles knows that at some point he’ll retire, and I don’t zodiac signs, all photographed by Karl Lagerfeld, who want to have to close down Elle when that happens,” said is a Virgo, by the way. “It was all Karl’s idea,” said Hachette ceo Jack Kliger, explaining the move. “We want O’Neill, explaining that the designer was intrigued by to sort of evolve and bring in the next generation while not the preeminence of horoscopes in fashion magazines losing the key people who make the magazine what it is.” and the popularity of astrology among his designer Bensimon, who has been the primary creative force peers. Stephen Gan, the magazine’s creative director, behind Elle U.S. since helping to bring the title here 21 helped him conceive the story. Shooting in New York years ago, will still shoot its covers and about half of its and Paris, Lagerfeld turned his lens on the likes of fashion pages, said Kliger. But moving forward, editor in chief Roberta Myers will become Donna Karan (Libra), Narciso Rodriguez (Aquarius), more involved with the fashion coverage, and particularly with bringing in new Roberto Cavalli (Scorpio), Michael Kors (Leo) and photographers and stylists. Bensimon, meanwhile, will get more involved with the foreign Tommy Hilfiger, the Aries owner of the Lagerfeld editions, and may even shoot covers for some other Hachette titles, such as Premiere. business. Donatella Versace faced a lot of The change of roles lent an added degree of complication to the negotiations over competition for her sign: Taurus. “Curiously, there Bensimon’s new employment contract, which concluded earlier this summer. Asked are a lot of Taurus designers,” O’Neill noted, rattling about the new terms, Kliger said, “Let’s just say it’s for longer than a year.” off the likes of Miucca Prada, Nicolas Ghesquière, Bensimon, who is 61, has repeatedly said that he is not yet ready to retire, but has Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino. Perhaps not so also acknowledged it will be time to do so in a few years. “It’s not only my decision — curiously, key Taurus traits are determined and self- it really depends on the company,” he said Thursday. As for whether the global nature indulgent. — Miles Socha Lagerfeld in the September Bazaar. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 WWD.COM New York & Company Poised for Major Store Expansion By David Moin NEW YORK — New York & Company Inc., once known as Lerner New York, has elimi- nated any trace of its former moribund self. Now it’s planning to open outlets for the first time, and roll out at least 50 regular- price stores annually for the next few years, including sites in Manhattan where the chain operates two. The moderate-priced chain is also playing up accessories through a “side-by-side” dual-store format launched November 2003. According to chairman and chief executive Richard P. Crystal, the 490-unit, $1.04 billion company could grow to 800 stores and 100 outlets — and that doesn’t include the vision for Jasmine, the upscale contemporary 14-unit retailer purchased this week and operating stores called JasmineSola and Luisa Luisa. New York & Company store in North Olmstead, Ohio. Crystal declined to discuss specific growth plans for Jasmine, or its price tag, but he did say why he thinks his New York & Co. chain is ready to ramp up growth. square feet on the second and 5,000 square feet on the lower level. “This is a no- “There is no trace of Lerner’s anymore,” said Crystal, who has been running New brainer for New York & Co.,” said Robert K. Futterman, chairman and ceo of the real York & Co. since 1996 and before that ran Macy’s product development program. estate firm bearing his name, which completed the lease and is helping New York & “Lerner’s was a big ship — a 900-store business doing $1 billion in sales. It took a long Co. find additional sites. “The area has really settled in as a major shopping thor- time to transition, but the business wasn’t totally broken or losing buckets of money. It oughfare,” with the former Alexander’s site transformed into the Bloomberg head- was marginally profitable, but it wasn’t moving.” quarters, as well a site for a big H&M store, other retailers and condos. Until now. “We’re expanding the business. Remodels are getting good results, and Bloomingdale’s, Zara, Levi’s and Diesel are nearby. “Crystal has a clear strategy” for we are excited about what the accessory business provides for us.” growing New York & Co. in Manhattan, Futterman added. “He’s definitely interested In 2002, Limited Brands sold Lerner New York to an investor group led by Crystal in 34th Street, Broadway in SoHo, and perhaps Fifth Avenue.” and Bear Stearns Merchant Banking for a total of $153.5 million in cash and notes. “I wouldn’t say we are obsessed about Manhattan,” Crystal said. “It’s part of our ex- The company built teams for design, sourcing and production, downsized its store pansion program. If a store comes along we think is viable, we’re interested.” The chain’s base and, as Crystal said, “moved from a store with brands to a brand that has stores.” other Manhattan stores are on Nassau Street downtown and uptown on 181st Street. In 1996, stores averaged $1 million in sales. “Now we are at $2.2 million.” All the Crystal is also creating an outlet division, potentially with 100 units. The first opened Lerner nameplates were gone by July 2004. two weeks ago in the Great Lakes Crossing center in Auburn Hills, Mich. Other outlets The Boston-based Jasmine was New York & Co.’s first acquisition. “This is a good could be “hybrids” selling regular-priced goods and merchandise to be liquidated, he said. strategic fit,” Crystal said. Jasmine offers “a price point and customer base that does- Last year, New York & Co. began opening shops selling accessories “side by side” to n’t compete with New York & Co.” Asked about buying another business, Crystal said, the New York & Co. sportswear stores. There will be 58 by yearend. Crystal said the for- “We are not in the market, but we always look for opportunities. Investment bankers mat generates more browsing, highlights accessories better than the standard format call constantly. Our main thrust is to grow New York & Co. right now. We have planned selling a mix of products and can be more productive. Side-by-side stores have a total of 50 to 60 new stores annually over the next three to four years, and we are renovating 6,500 square feet, whereas standard stores generally have about 5,500 square feet. 40 to 50 every year.” He described the renovations as “full scale,” costing 80 to 90 per- New York & Co. does best-selling stretch shirts, priced $24.50 to $39.50; cropped cent of the cost of a new store. Asked if there was a ceiling on the store count, he pants, $24.50 to $39.50; active bottoms and tops from $29.50 to $39.50, and targets replied, “We have identified somewhere north of 800 stores.” women 25 and 45 with household incomes from $40,000 to $75,000. One high-profile location is set for mid-November, a 14,700-square-foot store at 715 Last year, the company posted net earnings of $18.1 million, against earnings of Lexington Avenue here, on the southeast corner of 58th Street, where a retail project $25.03 million in 2003. However, in the first quarter this year, net income rose 65.4 is under construction. The store will have 3,800 square feet on the ground floor, 5,900 percent to $21.5 million. Jordache Pushes Premium WTO Trade Talks in Crisis By John Zarocostas

GENEVA — Global trade talks are in crisis because of a stalemate over farm trade issues, the chief of the World Trade Organization said Thursday. “As I have said before, my finger was hovering over the alarm button. Now I have pressed it. I urge you all to hear the alarm and to act upon it,” Supachai Panitchpakdi, WTO director-general, told a session of the committee that oversees the Doha round. In a speech in London Thursday, European Union Trade Commissioner Peter Mandelson said completing the Doha round “is not going to be easy.” “A successful Doha round is going to demand a great deal of heavy lifting amongst many, from now to Hong Kong in December. There has to be mutual and balanced political pain, for mutual and ambitious economic gain,” he said. The top EU official also alluded that Doha was being sidelined by other priorities. “I am struck by the lack of energy shown by American and European business communities in the present round, and there is little doubt that the drive for bilat- Brittany Murphy at the Jordache Premium shoot. eral and regional free trade agreements has adversely affected Doha,” he said. The aim of the Doha talks launched in Doha, Qatar, in November 2001 is to suc- NEW YORK — Jordache Premium will unveil its new advertising campaign, starring cessfully conclude an accord by the end of next year to lower barriers to the inter- actress Brittany Murphy, in September glossies. national flow of goods — including textiles, apparel, footwear and services — The campaign, shot by Patrick Demarchelier in Harriman, N.Y., is part of the com- worth nearly $11 trillion a year. pany’s strategy to raise awareness of Jordache Premium, a junior line sold exclusive- However, differences between rich and developing countries led to a collapse ly at Wal-Mart. of the talks during the WTO summit in Cancun in September 2003. The talks were “We set up a strategic alliance with Wal-Mart to help them elevate the quality of put back on track last July after then-U.S. trade representative Robert Zoellick the product by using our brand,” said Liz Berlinger, president of Jordache and ministers from other countries, agreed on a framework for the round. Enterprises. “We’ve upgraded fit, fabric and washes, and can offer a premium product Mandelson also voiced concern about developments in the U.S. to Wal-Mart that retails between $16 and $22.” The line will include basic five-pocket “In the U.S., where trade leadership was instrumental in building the open and fashion styles. trading system after 1945, a gathering cloud of protectionism is hanging over The ads will appear in Teen People, Seventeen, Teen Vogue and Latina, and will run Capitol Hill as we are witnessing in the current CAFTA debate,’’ Mandelson said. through the holiday season. “We’re in conversations to do billboards — Brittany really To advance the talks ahead of a crucial WTO summit in December in Hong wants us to do that,” Berlinger said. The company declined to reveal its fall budget. Kong, WTO members agreed to try and come up with first approximations on key This campaign follows last year’s launch of the Jordache Vintage line, which put issues by the end of July. But senior trade officials now say it’s clear WTO mem- Jordache back in the game as a luxury denim manufacturer. That line is distributed to bers are going to fall short of their expectations specialty boutiques. —Lauren DeCarlo

played in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” Robert Rufino, creative director Fashion Scoops at Tiffany, also landed a cameo in the cheerful mural, as did his Jack Russell terrier, Windsor, named after the Duke of Windsor. COLOR ME BEAUTIFUL: Nondescript navy blue scaffolding would just Toledo is quickly winning admirers with his latest project, not do for Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship. The brand behind which will be on display all summer. “That corner seems to be the the little blue box tapped Ruben Toledo to do an eye-popping center of the world in some weird way. You can bump into anyone illustration for its storefront while its under construction. He there,” Toledo said. “We seem to run into friends from all different imagined a street scene with stylish pedestrians in colorful countries there.” threads. Man-on-the-street photographer Bill Cunningham often stakes Passersby — and there are plenty at 57th and Fifth — will spot out that intersection to capture fashion trends. True to form, he three variations of the Holly Golightly character Audrey Hepburn was the first to send Toledo a photo. Ruben Toledo’s storefront mural at Tiffany. Pump up the Volume.

PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER, STEVE EICHNER, TYLER BOYE, LAUREN FLEISHMAN, TALAYA CENTENO WWDSounds of Style Section II: September 8 Close: August 16 From Madonna’s Eighties lace craze to Gwen Stefani’s cheerleader minis, the music industry makes fashion statements that consumers listen to. WWD’s fourth annual Sounds of Style issue won’t miss a beat in uncovering the incredible force behind the convergence of music and style — from the red carpet of the MTV Video Music Awards to underground clubs around the globe.

Issue benefits: • Reach impressionable and music-conscious young trendsetters. • Show industry decision-makers you’re leading the latest trend in driving consumers to retail.

Bonus Distribution: Consumers at Virgin Megastores in major metro markets and college students on campuses nationwide.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p., group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 WWD.COM Berardi Exits Milan to Show in Paris

By Alessandra Ilari An image Paul Smith, Jean Paul Gaultier, from Antonio Michael Kors and Viktor & Rolf. MILAN — Designer Antonio Berardi’s first Alfredo Girombelli, managing Berardi, ready for a change and ad campaign. director of Berardi, was upbeat tired of struggling for a good slot about the solid foundations Gibo’ during Milan Fashion Week, has has set for the brand’s future, defected to Paris to present his projecting 40 percent growth by spring-summer 2006 collection. yearend on the $4.8 million (4 “Milan has become very busi- million euros) sales posted in ness-oriented, which means that 2004. “The quality of our service, aside from runway shows, there distribution and deliveries has are a string of showroom presen- increased significantly, which is tations, press conferences, ap- why for the second season we pointments and lunches that can afford pre-collections,” make it more difficult for small- Girombelli said. er brands,” Berardi said in an in- The 120-piece pre-spring col- Ted Baker’s softer side in SoHo. terview. “In Paris, instead, it’s all Italiana. “Berardi came to Milan lection will start selling in the about the shows.” from London, is now going to U.S on Aug. 3. Berardi, whose thematic and show in Paris and could return To mark the moment, Berardi extravagant vision blends with to Milan one day. There’s nothing has channeled $108,000 (90,000 Ted Baker Looks to Grow Paris’ avant-garde scene, started dramatic in this global world, euros) for its first ad campaign, showing in Milan in September also because sooner rather than which broke in Flair and Italian 1999, four years after he launched later, Milan and Paris will put Vogue and will soon roll out to his namesake company. out a joint calendar.” French, British and Russian Women’s Business in U.S. “There is lots of flexibility on In 2002, Berardi signed a li- books. Shot by Michelangelo di where designers show,’’ said censing deal for production with Battista in a Paris studio, the By Sharon Edelson Mario Boselli, president of the Gibo’, the Italian manufacturer ads feature model of the mo- Camera Nazionale della Moda with a portfolio that includes ment Bianca Balti. NEW YORK — Ted Baker, the London brand known for contem- porary men’s wear with a bohemian twist, is showing its femi- nine side. The company opened a 1,700-square-foot women’s boutique on July 15 adjacent to its existing men’s store at 107 Grand Street in SoHo. The new space has its own street entrance and two inte- Chloé Files Copycat Lawsuit rior cut-throughs leading to the men’s store. The total Ted Baker space is now almost 4,000 square feet, said Craig Smith, brand By Miles Socha Saks Fifth Avenue and Nord- communications director. strom in the U.S. Kirsten Dunst While women’s wear accounts for 35 percent to 40 percent of PARIS — Chloé is suing French and Nicole Richie are among the sales in the U.K. it is considered “emerging” in the U.S. Women’s fashion retailer Kookai for al- bag’s celebrity devotees. product offerings have been growing season after season. “It’s legedly selling copycat versions Paris-based Kookai, owned by pretty much on par with the men’s wear,” said Smith. of its hot “Silverado” handbag. retail conglomerate Vivarte, op- In addition to apparel, there are accessories, footwear, fra- Chloé said Thursday that it erates some 460 stores in 40 grance, intimates, watches and eyewear for the fairer sex. The filed a claim with the U.K. High countries, according to its Web only Ted Baker product not available to women is formalwear. Court this week, charging Kookai site. Company officials could not “Women’s wear across our stores in the U.S. has been getting with “unregistered design rights be reached for comment. more dynamic,” Smith said. “There was always a fairly compre- infringement.” Although specifics Kookai’s pocket bag retails hensive offer of women’s merchandise in the men’s store. We of the claim are sealed, Chloé is for about $60 and has been felt now was the right time to expand the women’s space in said to be seeking an injunction pitched as a cheap alternative New York.” to prevent sale of the bag, billed to the pricey Silverado. There is no mistaking the two spaces. The women’s store is by Kookai as its “whip stitch A trial date has not been set, designed with classic materials such as dark wood and polished pocket bag.” and the case may not be heard metal juxtaposed with gold, lace, mirrors and a dash of neon Unveiled to the trade in until the fall. At that time, a pink for a contemporary girly look. January 2004, Silverado quickly judge will weigh evidence and Original Chloé Silverado bag (top) The company operates six stores in the U.S. and hopes to became Chloé’s number-one sell- witness statements before mak- with Kookai’s present version. have 10 to 12 in the next two years, Smith said. There are 24 Ted ing handbag, only recently un- ing a decision. In such cases, it Baker stores worldwide. seated by the new “Paddington.” “What is our industry about? is understood the litmus test is After halting women’s wholesale distribution with the fall ’06 Ralph Toledano, chairman It’s about inventing and innova- the overall impression of prod- collection, Ted Baker relaunched its wholesale effort with the and chief executive officer of tion and we cannot afford to have ucts side by side, rather than the spring 2005 line. The company is being more selective about Chloé, said the company is fight- people stealing our innovation,” number of features in common. where the products are sold, targeting specialty stores such as ing a range of infringements both Toledano said in an interview. Toledano said Chloé would Stanley Korshak in Dallas, Mercantile in Portland, Ore., and online and in other stores, aided “Ethically, it’s unacceptable. And continue to feature new versions Brick Lane in Venice, Calif., all of which cater to price- and style- by the intellectual property ex- it has clear commercial damages.” of the Silverado in forthcoming conscious consumers. perts at parent Compagnie Chloé ships its Silverado bags, ad campaigns, and bolster its ac- “We need to be accessible to the right kind of customer,” said Financiere Richemont. He de- which retail for $1,875 in snake- cessories category with more Smith. “We’re realistic as a brand. We’re a designer label with clined to identify other targets of skin versions, to more than 300 new designs. Handbags account accessible prices. We have that responsibility to our customers.” legal action, but said several dis- stores worldwide, including Nei- for about 50 percent of Chloé’s putes have been settled amicably. man Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, sales, he added. Charlotte Russe Net Falls 38.9% Despite Sales Rise By Meredith Derby earned $5.4 million, or 23 cents, in the Russe and Rampage during the quarter,” “Rampage has turned,’’ Hoffman year-ago quarter. Prior-year results have Mark Hoffman, chief executive officer of said. “It continues building customer NEW YORK — Charlotte Russe Holding been restated to reflect changes to the Charlotte Russe, said during a confer- recognition and it is just beginning to Inc. reported a 38.9 percent drop in company’s lease accounting practices. ence call with analysts. He noted that an build its market share. third-quarter earnings despite a 10.4 Third-quarter sales rose to $146.9 earlier Easter shifted sales from the Nevertheless, Hoffman guided percent increase in total sales. million from $133 million, but same- third quarter to the second, which af- fourth-quarter earnings per share to 16 Even with positive trends emerging store sales fell 0.9 percent. fected the period’s results. He said sales to 20 cents; analysts’ consensus is for 20 in its repositioned Rampage chain, the For the first nine months of fiscal picked up in June, a trend the company cents. The company earned 13 cents last company issued a fourth-quarter earn- 2005, Charlotte Russe earned $4.7 mil- expects will continue. year. He said the company needs to see a ings projection that could come in below lion, or 20 cents, a decrease of 60.7 per- Charlotte Russe has struggled with continuation of regular-priced selling consensus estimates. cent compared with earnings of $12 mil- the repositioning of its Rampage stores, from apparel. In the three months ended June 25, lion, or 50 cents, a year ago. Total sales which began last August. Rampage now Same-store sales are expected to be the San Diego-based Charlotte Russe in the nine months rose 5.7 percent to offers fashionable merchandise at price up in the mid-single digits in the fourth earned $3.3 million, or 14 cents a diluted $423.8 million from $401.1 million, but points below more aspirational brands, quarter. share, missing Wall Street analysts’ con- same-store sales fell by 4.8 percent. Hoffman said. The company plans to open 50 new sensus of 17 cents. The quarterly results “While it is hard to see in the num- He expressed optimism that the con- stores during fiscal 2005 and 35 new included a charge of 1 cent a share for bers just reported for the quarter, I be- cept is on the right track, noting that same- Charlotte Russe stores in fiscal 2006. the tentative settlement of a labor-relat- lieve much progress was made by the store sales for the chain were up in the Charlotte Russe operates 321 Charlotte ed lawsuit. By comparison, the company merchandising teams in both Charlotte double digits during both May and June. Russe stores and 67 Rampage stores. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 15

Designer HANDBAGS Retail Analyst Leading childrenswear company seeks GREAT OPPORTUNITY! experienced Retail Analyst to provide ALLEN B./A.B.S Fusion Accessories seeks a DESIGNER analytical support to sales force. with 2+ years experience in Handbag Responsibilities include developing by Allen Schwartz CLOSE OUTS VP GENERAL Design. Must be fashion savvy, w/strong and managing sales and inventory, We Buy Men’s, sketching abilities, and Adobe Photoshop forecasting models and plans for each Allen B., a leader in contemporary/designer denim and Women’s & Children’s MERCHANDISER proficient. Detail oriented, organized, account. Must retrieve, analyze and casual lifestyle clothing, has an incredible opportunity for an and professional as well. Must be willing interpret retail sales data and make All Quantities 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks to do some domestic and international recommendations to maximize sales aggressive, self-motivated Account Executive to join our sales WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY experienced Retail Missy/ travel. Interview scheduling for July 28th potential. Must create and analyze team in New York. Established relationships with better We are nice people to deal with and 29th. Please contact by E-mail at: weekly and monthly reports by sku for Juniors Divisional or General [email protected] sales and stock planning and forecast- contemporary/designer and International specialty P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Merchandise Manager for ing. Knowledge of Kmart Workbench stores a must. Also HBA and General Merchandise. key account management. and Wal-Mart Retail Link web based Excellent benefits, salary and commission. Call Rocky 800-762-5488 DESIGNER systems req’d. Qualified candidates Must be passionate about INFANTS APPAREL/LAYETTE will have a minimum of 3 years experi- All replies kept confidential. the retail market and have Character license division seeks talent- ence in brand apparel, cosmetics, or long standing relationships ed Designer w/minimum 6 years exp. accessory business. Strong retail ana- Fax resumes to: 212-840-0092 Must coordinate w/licensors & facto- lytical skills required. Must be profi- or Email: [email protected] and contacts. Relocation not ries for approvals. Fax: or E-mail re- cient in Excel, Power Point, Database req. $200K Strong Incentives. sumes to: Managers. Competitive salary and Confidentiality Assured. 212-725-2703 / [email protected] excellent benefits. Fax resumes with salary requirements to 732-636-4764 or SALES REPS WANTED Fax 732-280-6190 e-mail: [email protected] HI VOLUME BUSINESS! [email protected] DESIGNER Top apparel importer seeks qualified Well est’d. 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Min 1 yr exp in imports. 2) Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, 488 7th Avenue (36th Street) Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 SUNNY/LOFT-LIKE SHWRM Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas W-I-N-S-T-O-N 212-382-1732 / [email protected] Fax: 213-622-7353 or Email: Top Accessory Executive Live/Work TRIM BUYER $45-$55K [email protected] Wood flrs, Hi ceils, 2 baths, drmn APPAREL STAFFING Mid-Tier & Mass: Looking for Solid DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Fabric Research & HANG WITH GAP Opportunity with Company that wants Approx. 1100SF. Immed Occ … $ 3595 ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 SHOWROOM SALES growth. Call 609-519-1399 212.629.8694 – MON-FRI – NO FEE (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Product Development Showroom Seven, a leading multi-brand Fast paced private label company is luxury designer fashion showroom seeks Visual Artiste with great excitement 57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. seeking a talented and organized fabric experienced Sales People for full time and enthusiasm for the creative use of Soho Penthouse live / work skylights merchandiser, with a minimum of 3 – 5 positions. Must have designer level expe- new and vintage materials seeks a ful- Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals rience and buyer contacts with Dept. & ASST PROD years exp., to work closely with account filling opportunity to create exquisite Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Leading Intimate Apparel Co seeks an executive & product team to successfully Specialty Stores. Seasonal European organized & detailed oriented person manage programs for a major retailer. travel req’d. Knowledge of French a +. and distinctive jewelry in partnership 85 Mercer Street - SOHO to do daily flwup w/overseas, to handle This team player must have a strong E-mail resume & salary requirements to: with a company that will appreciate 1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space. W’mart & Target acct. Spec garment is woven fabric background & knowledge [email protected] and compensate me well for my talents. a must. Minimum 2 years experience. of testing standards. Individual will Please contact Elise at (917) 843-7515. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Pls e-mail resume to Debbie at meet regularly with accounts & follow WOVEN & KNIT LINES seeking... www.dumann.com [email protected] up with fabric suppliers on a daily basis. Garment Sales Partner for Hi Qual La- Responsibilities include sourcing fabrics, Jewelry, Clothing, dies’, Men’s, Kids’ wear. Low cost. China negotiating fabric costs, approving lab direct. Hi Commission Ownership Plan. For Space in Garment Center dips, strike offs, bitlooms, handfeel ap- Fragrance Msg. 914-672-9988/[email protected] Helmsley-Spear, Inc. BUYER provals and maintaining excel log Exciting Growth 212-880-0414 sheets of the same. Assistant Please Fax all resumes to Opportunity...! Apparel Buyer Susan Pasamba at 212-382-2421 Seeking a positive and energetic Showrooms & Lofts 10 SPOT/Madrag rapidly expanding Corporate Sales Rep BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS women’s specialty apparel firm based GRAPHIC ARTIST to join our sales Great ’New’ Office Space Avail in Secaucus N.J., seeks an Assistant team. 2 years experience required; ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Apparel Buyer with 2+ years buying Toddler/Girls experience. Must have knowledge of Licensing Apparel Company seeks a Travel expected. Please Fax or E-mail Open To Buy and a great eye for good talented Graphic Artist. Responsibili- all resumes to: 323-938-5234 design and fashion. If you love fashion ties will include: creating new artwork, and thrive in a fast paced environ- screenprint and embroidery, setting [email protected] ment, contact us. Competitive salary up artwork for production, and putting Or visit: www.sagejewelry.com New York City’s upscale fragrance co. and benefits. Please fax resume: together presentation boards. We’re Seeks MANAGERS, ASST. MANAGERS (201) 319-0237 or E-mail: looking for a highly motivated team & SALES STAFF with a minimum 4 [email protected] player who is detail oriented and has a years experience in retail sales. good eye for color and design. Candi- COMPET SALARY + COMM + BNFTS. dates must have at least one year of Fax resume to 212.750.2135, Attn: Agnes experience in the field, and be profi- Director of Sales I HAVE THE TALENT, cient in Illustrator & Photoshop. This CFO- Great Opportunity! is an excellent opportunity to build a Andrea Jovine Retail Sales Manager U HAVE THE $$... Top apparel importer seeks qualified career within a dynamic company! person w/strong financial relationships to Fax resume & salary requirements to: Ind. to direct efforts of major dept Fast-paced 8000 sq ft high-end cloth- Intimate/Sleepwear designer with store & speciality store business for ing store in Boca Raton, FL seeks can- track record looking for a financial partner join our rapidly growing company! Inter- 212-944-1181, Attn: Inf/Toddler Dept. national LC and cash flow responsibilities. bridge knitwear collection. Develop didate to manage highly motivated to produce georgeous line without the sales strategy, plan & monitor sales/ sales team and build and expand an designer price. Forward all inquiries to: Located in L.A. Fax:213-622-7353 Email:[email protected] proj/ manage road force. Min 7 yrs established customer base. Experience Email: [email protected] fashion sales exp; 3 yrs background in a must. Salary, commission, benefits. Graphic Designer bridge/fashion. Demonstrated success Fax resume 561-994-6333 Henry A leading, licensed, cosmetics manu- managing accounts,w/proven track facturing company in midtown Man- record of improving current business DESIGN hattan seeking experienced pro, while building new accounts in minimum of 3 years experience. competitive market. Recognize/sell in- ASSISTANT DRAPER/ please respond vial email to: to opportuntities for product dev. Re- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERNMAKER [email protected] tail and/or business P & L exp helpful. PRODUCTIONS Top Couture House on 7th Ave. seeks Email resume to [email protected] or a highly skilled applicant with min. of GRAPHIC DESIGNER Fax to 212.764.9210 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. 3 years experience in evening, cocktail Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fast growing contemporary company and bridal couture. Candidates must be seeks entry level graphic designer to well organized & able to work in a fast create look books and line sheets. Must paced environment. Related experience be proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, in production and custom items pre- and Quark. Photography exp and photo ferred. Please fax resume Attn: Robert retouching a big plus. PRODUCTIONS 212-944-7996 Full servcie shop to the trade. Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fragrance Sales Executive PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry Looking for very aggressive and ambi- level prod assistant for fast growing tious SHOWROOM sales executive private label division. Must have min 1 with strong ability to promote its well- year exp working in imports and be established brand to specialty stores, computer proficient. Great opportunity apothecaries, spas & hotels. Must have for growth. STRONG FOLLOWING and at least 5 yrs. Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 FRAGRANCE WHOLESALE EXP on national level. Available to travel and visit/ train accounts. EXCELLENT PRODUCTION SALARY + COMMISSION + BENEFITS! Asst Production Mgr Fax resume w/ salary requirements to: Major shoe man seeks indiv w/ 1-2 yrs 212.750.2135, Attn: Agnes exp. Resp will include costing, comm. with factories scheduling, etc. Knowl- edge of Footworks a plus. Mid-town Judith Ripka location. Attractive salary + benefits. SALES PROFESSIONAL Send resume with salary history and Luxury Jewelry Company is seeking an requirements to: [email protected] ambitious and highly motivated Sales Professional to join our Madison Ave. Store team. Candidate must be exp’d. in sales, and have est’d. contacts. Benefits. PRODUCTION MANAGER E-mail: [email protected] Top apparel importer seeks qualified person w/ strong sourcing, planning, QC/QA & follow through reqd. Fast pace, Salesperson Wanted!!! Overseas travel required. Located in Fast Growing Sweater Mfg. Seeks Los Angeles. Fax: 213-622-7353 Email: Exp’d Salesperson For Junior Sweaters. [email protected] Please call Peter 212-840-1313 16 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 22, 2005 WWD.COM Camilla’s Brand New Coat ● Lynn’s French Hoedown ● With Honors

Lynn Wyatt

Bettina Zilkha

Suzy The mansion, which is near Prince Charles’ Highgrove took it off. The Wyatts’ four sons were there, too, By Aileen Mehle Estate, is so comfortable and full of memories that she helping Mom celebrate. decided to pass it onto her children. The guests? Jerry Hall in the tightest of blue jeans, a The Duchess of Cornwall, who just turned ● checked shirt, boots and all that blonde hair arrived 58, stepped into her best new celadon Lynn Wyatt, Houston’s gift to the international set, accompanied by Greek shipping heir Spiros Niarchos. green suit, pinned on two flower-shape celebrates her birthday every year in the South of Nicky Haslam, who never misses a party, wore his white eye® diamond brooches and topped off her France at her villa in Villefranche, and it’s always a and silver cowboy outfit. Prince Talal and Princess Ghida ensemble with a striking Philip Treacy whoop-de-doo romp. This year, it was maybe a little of Jordan were the cutest couple there. (He is Princess straw hat covered with a fantasy laurel wreath of soft more whoop-de-doo than usual. To give you a hint, Firyal’s son.) Johnny Pigozzi arrived with his camera for green silk leaves. Prince Albert of Monaco showed up wearing a bolo tie the simple reason that you can’t pry them apart. Then She was dressed like that to attend her first royal and didn’t leave until 3 a.m. there were Sir Norman and Lady Foster, June Newton garden party at Buckingham Palace on the arm of Prince According to various reports, Albert is settling in (she is Helmut’s widow), Ali Hewson (she is Mrs. Bono), Charles, who himself was dashing in a gray morning suit effectively, taking over from his late father, Prince Joan Collins and Percy Gibson and Shirley Bassey, a with a sky blue tie and a top hat. The newlyweds wore Rainier, as head of the principality. It is said he is taking knockout of a cowgirl in white, blue and purple. And smiles as wide as whales as they greeted as many of the over his responsibilities in a surprisingly industrious that’s not the end of it. This week, Lily Safra, her 8,000 guests as possible outside the royal tent where manner. Nonetheless, he still stayed at Lynn’s till 3 in daughter Adrianna, Elton John and David Furnish gave Queen Elizabeth, Prince Philip, the Duke of York and the morning. What the heck, all work and no play makes Lynn another birthday party at Lily’s magnificent estate, Princess Michael of Kent were having tea. There will Jack — and Al — a dull boy. La Leopolda, down the road apiece. It was supposed to always be an England. The theme of the party was Texas Cowboy Chic, Lynn be a surprise, but at least 34 people knew it was coming. Camilla received a very special birthday gift from her Wyatt style, of course. Her very French chef prepared Just try keeping a party in the South of France a secret. mother-in-law, who authorized and personally took barbeque chili, guacamole and pecan pie as though he ● what’s been described as a keen interest in designing were to the Hill Country born, with such culinary skill Cecile Zilkha of New York, Paris and Southampton, the Duchess’ very own royal coat of arms, which was that the international swells present swore it was the looking marvelous in a beautiful Lacroix suit with a ruffly presented to her on her special day. best Tex-Mex food they had ever had. Caramba! red and navy blouse, received the French order of The blue, red, gold and green design displays both Dinner was served on tables covered in blue denim Chevalier of the Legion d’Honneur at an exceptionally the coat of arms of the Prince of Wales and of Camilla’s and red calico, and the napkins were blue and white glamorous ceremony in Paris at the exceptionally father, Maj. Bruce Shand. It is flanked by the “royal lion neckerchiefs. In the middle of each table was a big silver glamorous Pre Catelan in the Bois de Boulogne. Le Tout supporter” from the Prince’s arms and a boar from boot with sunflowers popping out and every hurricane Paris turned out for the event in their best bibs and Major Shand’s, and there is an arch crown topping it lamp was wrapped with barbed wire. That’s Texas Chic tuckers. Cecile was honored for her many contributions to to which Camilla is entitled as the wife of the heir to enough for me. Is that Texas Chic enough for you? the arts in France and the U.S., where she is a vice the throne. Because one band is never enough, Lynn had two, chairman of the Metropolitan Opera and a cultural link It has been officially announced that Charles and Camilla one that played regular dance music and a French one between the two countries. The medal was presented by will come to the United States on their first foreign tour imported all the way from Marseille that played only former French Ambassador to the U.S. François Bujon de together in the fall. They will travel on a commercial airline country and western and Kentucky bluegrass, as though l’Estang and among the 100 stylish cultivated guests on to avoid criticism in England about the cost of private they had been born in the Lone Star State. Lynn was all hand for the presentation and a lavish lunch were Empress planes. And this in spite of the fact that the Duchess is a done up in a black suede fringed skirt, a black T-shirt, a Farah Pahlavi of Iran, Princess Firyal of Jordan, Lily Safra, white-knuckle flier. big silver belt and black lizard boots. She wore tons of French Ambassador Benoit d’Abboville, Maryll and Except for a 24-hour period in which he attended turquoise and silver jewelry, a chest-full of necklaces Bernard Lanvin, Jackie and Jean-Charles de Ravenel, President Reagan’s funeral, Charles has not visited the that looked like yokes, big enough to give an ox pause. Hubert de Givenchy, Carole Rochas, former U.N. Secretary United States in over eight years. “It’s called hangin’ it all out,” said our Lynn. How divine. General Javier Perez de Cuellar and his wife, Marcela, As for the Duchess, she has decided to hold on to a Lynn’s husband, Oscar Wyatt, the big oil and gas man, Cecile’s proud husband Ezra, their two daughters, Bettina bit of her former life and has changed her mind about not to be outdone, was dressed all in black, including a and Donna, and three grandchildren, Alexis, Rebecca and selling Raymill House, where she lived with her family. big black hat trimmed in silver and turquoise. He never Laetitia. It doesn’t get better than that. ZILKHA PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; WYATT BY JEMAL COUNTESS/ WIREIMAGE BY STEVE EICHNER; WYATT ZILKHA PHOTO BY