BBQ Heats Up

SMOKED A Special Editorial Supplement May 2008 BBQ Heats Up “Low and slow” describes the cooking method of “real” barbecue. But “hot and fast” is a far better description of barbecue’s growing popularity. Authentic pit-smoked barbecue meats cook for hours over charcoal and wood at a temperature near 212 degrees F. “It’s the authentic American comfort food,” says Amy Mills Tunnicliffe, co-author of “Peace, Love and Barbecue.” “You know that someone has taken time with it. It’s home-cooking. All those things make it very appealing.” Consumers crave barbecue and the comforting sides that go with it. Restaurants are satisfying those cravings with an increasing number of barbecue items on the menu. According to Technomic’s 2007 Menu Monitor, 58 percent of all chain menus carry at least one barbecue item, up 8 percent from 2006, and barbecue appetizers are growing at a 13 percent rate. Barbecue restaurants are also on the rise. “I don’t think you can look at barbecue as a fad,” says John Stage, owner of New York-based Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. “It’s definitely ingrained in Americana now.” By Joanne Costin SERVING UP MEMORIES SINCE 1926.™ Siloam Springs, AR 72761 � 1-800-357-ALLEN www.allens.com WG2-08-017R2_G4.indd 1 3/31/08 3:36:40 PM Cover Photo: 17th Street Bar & Grill Ribs SMOKED BBQ Heats Up The Appeal Traditional pit-smoked barbecue has Southern roots. 35 states. Dickey’s Barbecue Pit, headquartered in Dallas, Major barbecue regions—Memphis, Tenn.; Texas; Kansas has doubled in size in eight years. Pappas Bar-B-Q, a re- City, Mo.; St. Louis and the Carolinas have their own styles gional chain based in Houston, grew from six restaurants that are refl ected in the fl avor of the smoke; the types and in 2005 to 20 in 2008. Rib Crib’s eight locations have grown cuts of meats; and the rubs, mops, and sauces. to 42. And St. Louis-based Bandana’s expects to add 12 to In Texas, barbecue means beef. In North Carolina, it’s 14 locations in 2008. pork. And in Kansas City, it’s pork with a sweet tomato- Cheryl Carter, owner of Johnny Rebs’, a Southern roadhouse based sauce. Diversity thrives, not only between regions, with four locations in Southern California, believes authen- but among operators. “That’s the beauty of it,” says Curt tic cooking is one reason for the recent success of barbecue Gibson, director of operations for Tennessee-based Cal- chains. “They are taking the time to do it right,” says Carter. houn’s. “Everybody has a unique style.” And whether diners want barbecue that reminds them Sides that Satisfy of home or of their fi rst taste of “authentic” barbecue, res- “Classic sides are another reason,” says Carter. At John- taurateurs are doing their best to provide it. From 1998 to ny Rebs’, the classics are fried green tomatoes, grits, bis- 2008, the number of barbecue restaurants listed by Zagat cuits and peach cobbler. Other operations boast their own Survey grew 81 percent in New York and 268 percent in Los specialties, such as Calhoun’s Tennessee corn pudding, Angeles. Television food shows, magazines, celebrity chefs, Bandana’s potato salad, and 17th Street Bar & Grill’s BBQ barbecue fests and competitions have fueled the growth. baked beans. “Any barbecue menu is going to base itself Fast-growing barbecue chains have also made barbecue around ribs and brisket, pulled pork and barbecue chicken,“ more accessible. Famous Dave’s now operates 157 units in says Stage. “Everything else is what defi nes you.” The clientele for barbecue is diverse. “Barbecue knows Major BBQ Styles by Region no social or economic boundaries,” adds Stage. Region Favorite Meats Sauces and Rubs Famous BBQ Joints North Carolina East: Whole hog East: Thin, vinegar-based sauce & pepper Wilber’s West: Pork shoulders West: Like the East, only with a little ketchup Lexington Barbecue South Carolina Pork ribs and whole shoulders, East: Spicy vinegar sauce Midlands: Mustard-based Sweatman’s pulled pork sauce Northwest: Tomato-based sauce Maurice’s BBQ/Piggie Park Memphis Pulled pork, baby back ribs Dry rub, with a tomato-based sauce on the side Cozy Corner Neely’s Interstate Bar-B-Que St. Louis Pork spare ribs, pork steak Thick, tomato-based sauce with a little spice, on the side; Smoki O’s sometimes thinned with vinegar; meat often dry-rubbed Kansas City Pork ribs, beef brisket, burnt ends, Thick, sweet, tomato-based sauce; meat served wet Arthur Bryant’s pork, chicken, turkey Gates Texas Beef brisket, hot links, beef ribs Typically unsauced, but if served, a spicy tomato-based Kreuz Market BBQ sauce or hot sauce Taylor Café May 2008 S-3 A DVERTISEMENT “It’s something everyone can enjoy.” However, some chains have expanded their menus to include more salads, steaks, seafood and grilled items to widen the appeal. TREND WATCH: Even Mike Mills, known simply as “The Legend”, be- Authentic Regional BBQ Flavor lieves in offering alternatives for vegetarians. Mills is a three-time Grand World Champion at Memphis in May, the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. He owns four 17th Street Bar & Grill locations in Southern Illinois and three Memphis Championship Barbecue restaurants in Las Vegas. He is also a partner in Blue Smoke, Danny Meyer’s New York barbecue and jazz joint. Some purists disagree about expanding menu options. Bandana’s for example, is sticking to barbecue. “We just want to do one thing well and do it better than everyone else,” says Rick White, CEO. White says he’s seen an increasing number of female customers over the years and believes it’s because they serve their barbecue sauceless. “It’s not messy,” says White. Smokers Save Labor Advances in smoking equipment have propelled the in- egional barbecue is on the rise, and New York dustry, reducing labor costs. John Head, barbecue consul- City showcases the trend well. At Blue Smoke tant and senior vice president of operations of the Culinary Rin Manhattan, restaurateur Danny Meyer fea- Institute of Smoke Cooking, advises foodservice operators tures several barbecue styles including St. Louis, Mem- to consider the labor savings from commercial smokers, phis, North Carolina, Kansas City and Texas, while at Hill not just the cost of the machine. Country, the focus is exclusively on authentic Texas-style barbecue. Room to Grow Cattlemen’s® helps operators give their patrons the authentic regional BBQ flavor they crave. “Developed based BBQ Restaurants Per 100,000 People on barbecue regions, Cattlemen’s BBQ sauces add au- New York ........................1 Houston .........................7 thentic regional flavor to menus,” says Kelly Corcoran, Los Angeles .................2 Dallas ........................... 7 corporate chef for Cattlemen’s. Chicago ....................... 3 Kansas City ...................8 “For Carolina-style barbecue, pair Cattlemen’s GOLD® St. Louis.........................4 Memphis .....................15 with smoked pork,” says Corcoran. “A unique smoky- sweet combination of mustard, molasses and cayenne pepper make it extremely versatile. You can extend au- Gas and electric smokers ensure consistent temper- thentic Carolina flavor across the menu by using GOLD atures so meats can be left unattended when smoking as a marinade or as an ingredient in potato salads, cole- overnight. “Select a smoker with digital controls and a slaws and salad dressings.” holding feature,” says Head, “so you won’t have to hire In Anniston, Ala., patrons at Dad’s BBQ enjoy Cattle- someone to come and take the meat out.” men’s GOLD on smoked chicken sandwiches and as a “There are a lot more options now for operations that dipping sauce for chicken fingers. Chopped pork sand- want to do their own barbecue on a smaller scale,” says wiches and ribs are served with warmed Cattlemen’s Mills. “They have equipment that you can get through Original, a St. Louis-style BBQ sauce. the door and install below your hood system.” Smaller Cattlemen’s eight sauces provide endless options for smokers with a 200-pound capacity cost about $4,000. authentic regional barbecue. “You can do so many things To learn how to create great barbecue, Mills recom- with their products,” says Randy Ricketts, owner of Dad’s mends the National Barbecue Association Conference BBQ. “You can take what they have and create hundreds and Expo, where you can meet face-to-face with barbe- of different sauces.” cue experts. “They won’t tell you exactly how to cook it, In the Midwest, Pizza Ranch created a trio of smoke- but they will tell you what they do,” says Mills. “They will house chicken pizzas to boost sales and add excitement tell you what works for them.” Another option is the Cu- to the buffet. “Memphis Spice” features Cattlemen’s Hot linary Institute of Smoke Cooking, which is approved by & Spicy sauce, smokehouse chicken, bacon and moz- the American Culinary Federation. zarella, while the “Kansas City Sweet” and the “St. Louis Sassy” pizzas use Cattlemen’s Sweet. Non-traditional BBQ Fare “We like to bring in new pizzas and new flavors,” says When barbecue meets Italian and Mexican cuisines the Jon Moss, brand director for the 140-unit Pizza Ranch results are interesting. At Interstate Bar-B-Que in Memphis chain. “These items give customers a way to sample new you’ll find barbecue spaghetti, while Rib Crib features the flavors without buying a whole pizza.” Bar-B-Rito, a cheddar tortilla filled with barbecue chick- However it’s used, you can count on consistency with en, brisket or pork, beans, cheese, caramelized onions and Cattlemen’s. Says Moss, “You know what you are going creamy Bar-B-Rito sauce.

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