SMOKED A Special Editorial Supplement May 2008 BBQ Heats Up

“Low and slow” describes the cooking method of “real” barbecue. But “hot and fast” is a far better description of barbecue’s growing popularity. Authentic pit-smoked barbecue meats cook for hours over charcoal and wood at a temperature near 212 degrees F. “It’s the authentic American comfort food,” says Amy Mills Tunnicliffe, co-author of “Peace, Love and Barbecue.” “You know that someone has taken time with it. It’s home-cooking. All those things make it very appealing.” Consumers crave barbecue and the comforting sides that go with it. Restaurants are satisfying those cravings with an increasing number of barbecue items on the menu. According to Technomic’s 2007 Menu Monitor, 58 percent of all chain menus carry at least one barbecue item, up 8 percent from 2006, and barbecue appetizers are growing at a 13 percent rate. Barbecue restaurants are also on the rise. “I don’t think you can look at barbecue as a fad,” says John Stage, owner of New York-based Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. “It’s definitely ingrained in Americana now.”

By Joanne Costin SERVING UP MEMORIES SINCE 1926.™ Siloam Springs, AR 72761 � 1-800-357-ALLEN www.allens.com

WG2-08-017R2_G4.indd 1 3/31/08 3:36:40 PM Cover Photo: 17th Street Bar & Grill Ribs Grill & Bar Street 17th Photo: Cover SMOKED BBQ Heats Up

The Appeal Traditional pit-smoked barbecue has Southern roots. 35 states. Dickey’s Barbecue Pit, headquartered in Dallas, Major barbecue regions—Memphis, Tenn.; Texas; Kansas has doubled in size in eight years. Pappas Bar-B-Q, a re- City, Mo.; St. Louis and the Carolinas have their own styles gional chain based in Houston, grew from six restaurants that are refl ected in the fl avor of the smoke; the types and in 2005 to 20 in 2008. Rib Crib’s eight locations have grown cuts of meats; and the rubs, mops, and sauces. to 42. And St. Louis-based Bandana’s expects to add 12 to In Texas, barbecue means beef. In North Carolina, it’s 14 locations in 2008. pork. And in Kansas City, it’s pork with a sweet tomato- Cheryl Carter, owner of Johnny Rebs’, a Southern roadhouse based sauce. Diversity thrives, not only between regions, with four locations in Southern California, believes authen- but among operators. “That’s the beauty of it,” says Curt tic cooking is one reason for the recent success of barbecue Gibson, director of operations for Tennessee-based Cal- chains. “They are taking the time to do it right,” says Carter. houn’s. “Everybody has a unique style.” And whether diners want barbecue that reminds them Sides that Satisfy of home or of their fi rst taste of “authentic” barbecue, res- “Classic sides are another reason,” says Carter. At John- taurateurs are doing their best to provide it. From 1998 to ny Rebs’, the classics are fried green tomatoes, grits, bis- 2008, the number of barbecue restaurants listed by Zagat cuits and peach cobbler. Other operations boast their own Survey grew 81 percent in New York and 268 percent in Los specialties, such as Calhoun’s Tennessee corn pudding, Angeles. Television food shows, magazines, celebrity chefs, Bandana’s potato salad, and 17th Street Bar & Grill’s BBQ barbecue fests and competitions have fueled the growth. baked beans. “Any barbecue menu is going to base itself Fast-growing barbecue chains have also made barbecue around ribs and brisket, pulled pork and barbecue chicken,“ more accessible. Famous Dave’s now operates 157 units in says Stage. “Everything else is what defi nes you.” The clientele for barbecue is diverse. “Barbecue knows Major BBQ Styles by Region no social or economic boundaries,” adds Stage. Region Favorite Meats Sauces and Rubs Famous BBQ Joints North Carolina East: Whole hog East: Thin, vinegar-based sauce & pepper Wilber’s West: Pork shoulders West: Like the East, only with a little ketchup Lexington Barbecue South Carolina Pork ribs and whole shoulders, East: Spicy vinegar sauce Midlands: Mustard-based Sweatman’s pulled pork sauce Northwest: Tomato-based sauce Maurice’s BBQ/Piggie Park Memphis Pulled pork, baby back ribs Dry rub, with a tomato-based sauce on the side Cozy Corner Neely’s Interstate Bar-B-Que St. Louis Pork spare ribs, pork steak Thick, tomato-based sauce with a little spice, on the side; Smoki O’s sometimes thinned with vinegar; meat often dry-rubbed Kansas City Pork ribs, beef brisket, burnt ends, Thick, sweet, tomato-based sauce; meat served wet Arthur Bryant’s pork, chicken, turkey Gates Texas Beef brisket, hot links, beef ribs Typically unsauced, but if served, a spicy tomato-based Kreuz Market BBQ sauce or hot sauce Taylor Café

May 2008 S-3 A dvertisement “It’s something everyone can enjoy.” However, some chains have expanded their menus to include more salads, steaks, seafood and grilled items to widen the appeal. TREND WATCH: Even Mike Mills, known simply as “The Legend”, be- Authentic Regional BBQ Flavor lieves in offering alternatives for vegetarians. Mills is a three-time Grand World Champion at Memphis in May, the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. He owns four 17th Street Bar & Grill locations in Southern Illinois and three Memphis Championship Barbecue res- taurants in Las Vegas. He is also a partner in Blue Smoke, Danny Meyer’s New York barbecue and jazz joint. Some purists disagree about expanding menu options. Bandana’s for example, is sticking to barbecue. “We just want to do one thing well and do it better than everyone else,” says Rick White, CEO. White says he’s seen an in- creasing number of female customers over the years and believes it’s because they serve their barbecue sauceless. “It’s not messy,” says White.

Smokers Save Labor Advances in smoking equipment have propelled the in- egional barbecue is on the rise, and New York dustry, reducing labor costs. John Head, barbecue consul- City showcases the trend well. At Blue Smoke tant and senior vice president of operations of the Culinary Rin Manhattan, restaurateur Danny Meyer fea- Institute of Smoke Cooking, advises foodservice operators tures several barbecue styles including St. Louis, Mem- to consider the labor savings from commercial smokers, phis, North Carolina, Kansas City and Texas, while at Hill not just the cost of the machine. Country, the focus is exclusively on authentic Texas-style barbecue. Room to Grow Cattlemen’s® helps operators give their patrons the au- thentic regional BBQ flavor they crave. “Developed based BBQ Restaurants Per 100,000 People on barbecue regions, Cattlemen’s BBQ sauces add au- New York...... 1 Houston...... 7 thentic regional flavor to menus,” says Kelly Corcoran, Los Angeles ...... 2 Dallas ...... 7 corporate chef for Cattlemen’s. Chicago ...... 3 Kansas City...... 8 “For Carolina-style barbecue, pair Cattlemen’s GOLD® St. Louis...... 4 Memphis ...... 15 with smoked pork,” says Corcoran. “A unique smoky- sweet combination of mustard, molasses and cayenne pepper make it extremely versatile. You can extend au- Gas and electric smokers ensure consistent temper- thentic Carolina flavor across the menu by using GOLD atures so meats can be left unattended when smoking as a marinade or as an ingredient in potato salads, cole- overnight. “Select a smoker with digital controls and a slaws and salad dressings.” holding feature,” says Head, “so you won’t have to hire In Anniston, Ala., patrons at Dad’s BBQ enjoy Cattle- someone to come and take the meat out.” men’s GOLD on smoked chicken sandwiches and as a “There are a lot more options now for operations that dipping sauce for chicken fingers. Chopped pork sand- want to do their own barbecue on a smaller scale,” says wiches and ribs are served with warmed Cattlemen’s Mills. “They have equipment that you can get through Original, a St. Louis-style BBQ sauce. the door and install below your hood system.” Smaller Cattlemen’s eight sauces provide endless options for smokers with a 200-pound capacity cost about $4,000. authentic regional barbecue. “You can do so many things To learn how to create great barbecue, Mills recom- with their products,” says Randy Ricketts, owner of Dad’s mends the National Barbecue Association Conference BBQ. “You can take what they have and create hundreds and Expo, where you can meet face-to-face with barbe- of different sauces.” cue experts. “They won’t tell you exactly how to cook it, In the Midwest, Pizza Ranch created a trio of smoke- but they will tell you what they do,” says Mills. “They will house chicken pizzas to boost sales and add excitement tell you what works for them.” Another option is the Cu- to the buffet. “Memphis Spice” features Cattlemen’s Hot linary Institute of Smoke Cooking, which is approved by & Spicy sauce, smokehouse chicken, bacon and moz- the American Culinary Federation. zarella, while the “Kansas City Sweet” and the “St. Louis Sassy” pizzas use Cattlemen’s Sweet. Non-traditional BBQ Fare “We like to bring in new pizzas and new flavors,” says When barbecue meets Italian and Mexican cuisines the Jon Moss, brand director for the 140-unit Pizza Ranch results are interesting. At Interstate Bar-B-Que in Memphis chain. “These items give customers a way to sample new you’ll find barbecue spaghetti, while Rib Crib features the flavors without buying a whole pizza.” Bar-B-Rito, a cheddar tortilla filled with barbecue chick- However it’s used, you can count on consistency with en, brisket or pork, beans, cheese, caramelized onions and Cattlemen’s. Says Moss, “You know what you are going creamy Bar-B-Rito sauce. to get every time—just great barbecue flavors.” Cross barbecue with another all-American favorite Learn how Cattlemen’s can help you add regional and you’ve created a specialty of the fast-growing bar- barbecue flavors to your menu by visiting becue chain, Red, Hot & Blue. The All-In-Burger is piled www.frenchsfoodservice.com or call 800-442-4733. high with pulled pork BBQ, onion rings, melted cheddar and Mojo mild barbecue sauce.

S-4 May 2008 SWEETThatcan’t BEBeat

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RECKITT-Cattlemen’s Sweet Ad ’08 47080-FINAL 2/20/08 A dvertisement Barbecue Thrives on Campus There is also growing interest in authentic barbecue on campuses. When Chuck Wigington, food service director SIGNATURE SIDES for ARAMARK/University of Memphis Dining was hired, it seemed natural to put his background in smoke cooking to Offer Comfort and Profit work. Pulled pork sandwiches and plates are now served every day, and other items such as brisket and turkey are rotated in every two weeks. Barbecue is also a featured item at large catering events such as freshmen orienta- tions and senior picnics. “We use a commercial sauce and adapt it, to get better consistency,” says Wigington. Both hot and mild sauces are kept heated and added just before serving. “The quality of the barbecue seems to hold better if you don’t put the sauce on until the last minute.”

Hot Item in Healthcare When the University of Wisconsin Hospital & Clinics’ foodservice operation began looking for new flavors they could add to their menu, they found inspiration in bar- becue. Equipped with a new smoker, the Madison health- care facility began offering apple wood, hickory and pecan-smoked ribs, brisket and pulled pork at the cafeteria arbecue is comfort food and the sides that ac- late in 2007. The authentically smoked barbecue items and company it are every bit as appealing as baby homemade barbecue sauce were well received by patrons Bback ribs smoked to perfection. of the $5.5 million retail sales operation. “It gives us some- BBQ baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad can thing really unique that we can sell at different times of the bring as much value to foodservice operators as center year,” says John Hofman, director of food services. of the plate items. “Sides offer an opportunity to create tremendous Catering Bonanza equity,” says Chet Holden, corporate chef for Allens. Carryout and catering offer an excellent opportunity to “Consumers will return to a restaurant, not only for their boost revenues for barbecue restaurants. Carryout repre- barbecue, but for the signature sides they can’t get any- sents 25 percent of Bandana’s business and about 30 percent where else.” of revenue at Mike Mills’ restaurants. “It’s easy to add a signature touch to your BBQ baked “I’ve seen our catering grow from a few hundred thousand beans,” says Holden. “Simply add some of your own bar- dollars to almost $3 million last year,” says Bandana’s White. becue sauce or bits of smoked meat to Allens Baked Beans Events range from huge corporate picnics serving thousands for flavor that reflects your unique style of barbecue.” to business meetings and weddings. In Southern Illinois, it’s “By choosing an array of sides that time-pressed cus- not unusual to see a slab of Mike Mills’ famous ribs set in the tomers don’t cook at home, your check averages will in- center of the table at a wedding reception. crease,” says Holden. “And you can build incremental sales by offering takeout options.” Authentic and Convenient The same advantages apply to noncommercial opera- For the majority of foodservice operations who don’t own tions. In campus foodservice, for example, barbecue can smokers, there are still plenty of ways to add authentic re- break the monotony of meal plans. As for the sides, there gional barbecue flavor to appetizers, salads, entrées and are plenty of reasons why they deserve equal attention. sandwiches. For example, meats smoked off-premises can “The whole concept of the center of the plate has provide an authentic hickory-smoked flavor and texture. changed in education,” says Ralph Pfremmer, CEO of Pfoodman, the contract management firm that manages foodservice operations at Lindenwood University in St. Best Selling ’Cue & Sides Louis. “It is really important to consider the sides, because a lot of people are not eating the center [of the plate].” Barbecue Sides Food costs are another concern. “You don’t want 17th Street Bar & Grill Pulled Pork Tangy Pit Beans students filling up on protein items in an all-you-can- Ribs, BBQ Burger Coleslaw eat setting,” said Pfremmer. Green Beans The award-winning flavor of Allens Baked Beans can Bandana’s Bar-B-Q Pulled Pork Potato Salad build sales and profits in countless creative ways: BBQ Nachos • Add diced green chilies and toasted cumin for Calhoun’s Ribs Creamy Country Slaw Cinco de Mayo Baked Beans. Pulled Pork Tenn. Corn Pudding • Create Tahitian Baked Beans by adding toasted Baked Beans coconut, mandarin oranges, ginger and clove. Dinosaur Bar-B-Que Ribs, Brisket Macaroni and Cheese • Offer a Baked Bean Bar, for personalized flavor. Pulled Pork French Fries Start with chopped green onions, minced pepper, BBQ Wings Coleslaw grated cheese and diced cooked bacon. Johnny Rebs’ BBQ Baby Back Ribs Hushpuppies For more information and exciting recipes, visit www.allens.com. St. Louis Pork Ribs Biscuits BBQ Pinto Beans

S-6 May 2008 Operators only need to heat and sauce the product. create their own style or emulate the style of a barbecue Pulled pork, ribs, brisket, sausages and chicken create a wide region, solutions in the form of smokers, commercially variety of menu possibilities. Purchasing unsauced products smoked meats, woods, sauces, seasonings, and sides will also creates an opportunity for custom menu items, when you add authentic fl avor to the menu. add a house-made sauce. “Chefs can experiment and come up No one solution will be right for every foodservice op- with their own fl avors,” says Tunnicliffe. “They can work with a eration, just as there is no one dominant style of barbe- base sauce, add to it, and make their own fl avor profi les.” cue. But looking to the future, Mike Mills is probably right At Mercer University Dining Services/ARMARK, in Macon, when he says, “Every place can use more barbecue.” Ga., lack of a smoker didn’t deter Executive Chef Richard Gerow from using barbecue to add excitement to the menu. A “BBQ 10 Ways” event brought barbecue fl avor to 10 meat and vegetarian dishes. Casual Dining Embraces BBQ “In addition to BBQ beans & bacon, we served vegan beans and barbecue eggplant,” says Gerow. “BBQ oysters were cre- Claim Jumper – Hickory BBQ Burger Applewood smoked ated by adding spicy barbecue powder to oysters on the half bacon, Gouda, Thousand Island, BBQ sauce and the works shell, and heating them on a Panini griddle. When warmed Chili’s – Brown Sugar Chile Rub Baby Back Ribs Rubbed through, the oysters were topped with a vinegar-based slaw.” w/brown sugar, chile & spices served with Ancho-chile BBQ sauce “Barbecue is a staple in Georgia,” says Pat Brussack, dietary Coco’s Bakery Restaurant – BBQ Chicken Quesadilla specialist for the award-winning foodservice operations at the Chicken, Jack and cheddar cheese, green chiles, sautéed onions and BBQ sauce in a crispy tortilla University of Georgia. Fully cooked pulled pork sandwiches are on the weekday menu and BBQ baby back ribs are on the Loco’s – The Gobbler Smoked turkey grilled with Locos BBQ sauce weekend menu. Other items include a Chipotle Pork BBQ Wrap on a sub roll with melted cheddar, Jack, bacon and mayo and BBQ tofu sandwich. Authentic barbecue is sometimes pre- The Ram – Bourbon BBQ Meatloaf Meatloaf grilled and pared for special events using a smoker operated by the Meat smothered with whiskey BBQ glaze Science department. In 2007, a popular BBQ and Bluegrass Cheeseburger In Paradise – BBQ Pork Minis Three event featured regional barbecue and sauces. marinated pulled BBQ Pork Minis with pickles and coleslaw, served on brioche buns

Always Room for More Ham’s – BBQ Chicken Salad Fresh greens, diced tomatoes, As interest in barbecue heats up, authenticity will be cucumbers, shredded cheese and bacon tossed with Chipotle Ranch dressing and topped with BBQ chicken breast paramount. With barbecue’s already diverse fl avor pro- fi le, there will be many ways to satisfy America’s craving Wing Stop – Hickory Smoked BBQ Chicken Wings for barbecue and home-cooked sides. Whether operators

A DVERTISEMENT AUTHENTIC SMOKED BARBECUE: DELIVERED Can authentic smoked barbecue fl avor come from somewhere other than your kitchen? AUSTIN BLUES® BBQ customers say, “Yes!”

RIBS IN KANSAS CITY, MO. PULLED PORK IN NORTH CAROLINA n a city where diners crave both For the Lifeway Ridgecrest Conference steak and barbecue, “You have to Center in western North Carolina, a com- I be able to please both sides,” says mercial smoker wasn’t an option. But Todd Brooks, corporate chef of Hereford neither was a menu without barbecue. House, a legendary Kansas City steak- To resolve this dilemma, Food and Bev- house owned by The Anderson Group, a erage Manager Mark Ricketts relies on seven-unit, multi-concept operator. AUSTIN BLUES® fully cooked barbecue The taste of AUSTIN BLUES® barbe- pulled pork to deliver authentic smoked cue was all it took to convince Brooks barbecue fl avor on the buffet line. to stop smoking Hereford House’s The pulled pork is requested so of- signature ribs in-house. ten Ricketts doesn’t see it ever coming “If I didn’t tell anybody, I’d bet you off the menu. 10 out of 10 people would not know “It’s like you’ve done the smoking your- we have our ribs smoked somewhere self,” he says. “The fl avor is perfect.” Rick- else,” says Brooks. etts also likes how the product holds up AUSTIN BLUES® St. Louis-style pork on the line, retaining its moisture and ribs arrive fully cooked and unsauced. chunky, hand-pulled texture. After applying a sweet and spicy For more information and recipes using dry rub, the ribs are grilled over hickory AUSTIN BLUES® BBQ ribs, pulled pork, pulled charcoal, and fi nished with the restau- chicken, hot links, beef brisket and pork loin, rant’s own smoky barbecue sauce. visit www.hormelfoodservice.com.

May 2008 S-7 PL_HFS1206-487 Rest. Bus. 6/1/07 7:59 PM Page 1

AUSTIN BLUES® gives you slow-cooked barbeque in minutes.

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No matter how fast your cooks are, you're sure to save time with AUSTIN BLUES It's authentic® BBQ. barbeque that tastes as good as if you smoked it yourself. We've already slow-cooked it for hours, so you can serve it up with your signature sauce in no time. End of story.

™ Ideas That Deliver. ©2007 Hormel Foods Sales, LLC www.hormelfoodservice.com 1-800-723-8000

Inspected by HJ 6/1/07