The Microbiopolitics of Raw-Milk Cheese in the United States
POST-PASTEURIAN CULTURES: The Microbiopolitics of Raw-Milk Cheese in the United States HEATHER PAXSON CMassachusettsA Institute of Technology People in the United States live in a Pasteurian world. Many blame colds on germs, demand antibiotics from doctors, and drink ultra-pasteurized milk and juice, while politicians on the campaign trail slather on hand sanitizer. Yet there are post-Pasteurians in their midst: dissenters who insist that not all bugs are bad, not only that microbes are a fact of life but that many also enhance human life. Resisting the hyperhygienic dream of Pasteurians, post-Pasteurians might be concerned about antibiotic resistance, may embrace the naked handshake as a populist virtue (like Democratic presidential hopeful Bill Richardson [Leibovich 2006]), or may fashion informal social-economic channels to procure unpasteurized milk (Altiok 2006; Johnston 2006). Others produce, or pay premium price for, the gustatory and enzymatic richness of raw-milk cheese—the ethnographic object of this article. In the last decade, new, handcrafted U.S. cheeses have mushroomed at farmers’ markets, at restaurants, and in the media (Ogden 2007; Roberts 2007; Tewksbury 2002; Werlin 2000). Membership in the American Cheese Society, a not-for-profit organization of artisan and specialty producers, retailers, distribu- tors, a few dairy scientists, and food writers, has increased exponentially in recent years. According to Jeff Roberts, author of The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese (2007), which profiles 345 small producers from Maine to Hawaii, the number of artisan cheese makers nationwide has doubled since 2000 (personal communica- tion, August 2, 2007). More and more of the new U.S.
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