Surprising Geography and Remote History

“Gredos Lake is an immense kidney of clear, well-filtered water, water so lovely and pure that it makes one want to drink it.”

Camilo José Cela

lthough it is not known how, Nebuchadnezzar, biblical king of A Babylon, came to these lands to found the first towns and cities, Redos taking advantage of the peace and wealth enjoyed by these GAnd Its Parador mountains at the time: “...near the water on the most isolated of peaks, there were an abundant number of rather small stones, these stones, hidden in places known only to the goatherds who already inhabited the area, shone more brilliantly than the sun which illuminates us all ...”

Much later came the Celtic Vettons, as they were christened by the Romans, tribes who might be considered unsociable rather than fierce. They survived on pasturage, hunting and fishing, living in small fortified settlements ingeniously protected by large stones which they used to erect a sort of wall. These tribes were warlike and religious after their own fashion. They worshipped mysterious phenomena or the animals necessary for their survival. They carved large stone verracos – figures of pigs or perhaps bulls – which still graze these fields.

They were first-hand witnesses as that rascal Hannibal passed through, sometimes pursued by his Roman enemies, and at others, in their pursuit. Finally peace was established, characterized first by ranching and then transhumant pastoralism. Meanwhile the legionaries built the road called the Calzada de la Plata, searching out metals, slaves, horses, and many of the other things they valued highly. They had just pacified the natives of Candelada, and had already deposed Viriato, warrior of Candelario. In Bejár they set up a permanent camp and a fortified city, proud host of noble imperial families. And there was still enough leisure time to take an interest in hygiene and health at Montemayor Spa. These marvelous waters are still enjoyed by the modern-day traveler in need of their curative properties.

These mountains were under Muslim rule for three centuries, but the traveler will be able to discern few vestiges of the growth experienced during this period. There were, however, well-known villages such as Jaraíz, Jarandilla, Ambroz, Plasencia, and above all, Granadilla. Today an islet pardoned by the waters of “progress,” in the midst of an artificial lake, it was once a powerful fortress ruling over a large territory. The skeptic Almanzor, the most famous and feared leader of his time, lent his name for all eternity to the sovereign peak which dominates these Gredos Mountains. It is told in respectable chronicles that when the illustrious Moor passed through the area on his conquests, he was terrified when his way was blocked by these mysterious and threatening crags. The goatherds called these mountains “Greos”, in reference to the pitiful cries which arose from time to time, like the ghostly howling of a lovely, blond nymph imprisoned by magic in the deep black waters of a lake which lay high above, guarded by dragons.

Bernaldo de Quirós, a 1920s author, tells us that the intrepid Almanzor ordered some shepherds being held prisoner to lead him to the gloomy lake to help the lovely nymph. “... but in vain did the victorious Moor await the indecipherable cries of the lake. So that he would not be disappointed, the mountain dwellers decided to awaken the chorus of sleeping echoes. Cupping

GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR 1 their hands before their mouths like horns, in unison they let out a savage cry mysteries and legends. Very early on, the famous codex of Pope Calixto against the black wall of the cliff. The mountain responded as if being torn II set the lake’s origins in the time when Emperor Charlemagne walked down. The echoes of the voice from beyond repeated the barbarous shouting these lands with the impossible desire of conquering the mystical city of up to seven times, or more ...” Lucerna. The powerful, and at that time undefeated, emperor was forced to invoke the grace of the Holy Apostle. The saint worked a miracle: So disturbed and confused was the victorious one that he spurred his “The unconquered walls of Lucerna came tumbling down, shaken by a steed on to the highest point of the highest peak. From that time forth, the powerful earthquake. The earth rose towards the heavens in waves of lake’s crag and glacial cirque have been called the “Plaza of the Moor burning granite which slowly cooled, hardening into impressive upright Almanzor”. mountains. And from that time on there has been a very high, very black During that period, these rough lake in which large, black fish lands were neither completely swim.” Thus was the famous Moorish nor completely Christian. Lucerna submerged, perhaps for The hectic coexistence of the all time, under the waters of this border regions did not prevent lake. towns and cities from growing in Even today the skeptical traveler the cold weather and the heat of can hear the reverent tales of the rites and customs dictated by certain elderly locals which bear mosques, churches, and some similarity to those of the synagogues. ascetic Madoz: “... the strangest of imps and pests live there. There are Then came Fernando I. In the also witches and necromancers who end he rearranged this newly- daily play out the most outlandish christened complex mountain of scenes. The ridiculousness and range. He brought in Christians absurdity of these facts are not with an impeccable religious enough to assuage the concern of pedigree from northern lands these natives, who regard anything which could boast the same, and to do with the lake with terrified showered them with rights and panic ...”. privileges. Even in the areas of Hoyos del For many years Toledo was the Espino, Pico Pass, or the Barco- most powerful and influential Piedrahita road, the traveler will be capital of this and many other territories. It was the Taifa kingdom of Al- convinced that the enigmatic lake hides in its depths a passageway which Mamun until conquered forever by King Alfonso VI. These districts were communicates with the sea, without there being any need for discourse made Christian, opportunely and opportunistically divided up amongst with the Tormes River, whose source lies nearby. noble and quarrelsome knights: the López Dávalos, Beltrán de la Cuevas, Álvaro de Luna and Álvarez de Toledo families, and the house of Alba. The first discoverer of these mountains was George Borrow, as he trod The families controlled these lands from the 12th century, lords of these paths selling his famous Bible: “... there are no mountain ranges like Plasencia, Piedrahita, Guisando, Barco, , Arenas, and many this one in all , gentlemen. They hold their secrets, their mysteries. others. Many a peculiar tale is told about these mountains and what they conceal within their deepest hiding places, where many have been lost. It is said Some of these sites and many others can be made out from the ridge that there are deep lakes inhabited by monsters such as large serpents of Almanzor, which could well serve as an impassive demonstration of longer than a pine tree, and sea horses who sometimes emerge to wreak the words of the metaphysician Unamuno: “How great is Castile!” untold havoc ...” Following the difficult yet peaceful process of Christianization, these peaks would require another more modern, yet pleasurable, reconquest, one of leisure, adventures and gratifying literary activities, never completely free of

2 GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR Parador of Unusual Landscapes and Noble Inhabitants

D The great promoter of wild climbing excursions in these still outdated idolatry. surprising spots was King Alfonso XIII. Just after the turn of the 20th century the first royal hunt was held. This event established and The visitor should not forget that it would be right here, in the Silencio protected the coveted cabra hispánica mountain goat, making it the envy Function Room, where the most outstanding minds undertook the of poachers and bounty hunters and even serving as a stimulus for their incredibly difficult task of determining the form of the final Spanish activities. It is said that on one of these hunts, His Majesty brought down Constitution. The year 1978 passed like a storm, filled with innumerable two males with a single shot, although it appears that this marvel was the fears and uncertainty, happily resolved. result of a fluke of the royal projectile. It would be in this not unjustly named (‘Silence’) room that they would argue, fight and finally reach an agreement on the Constitution which has King Alfonso and company had to travel to Venta del Obispo. Awaiting governed and controlled all Spain since that time. In this same room, them there were those singular mechanical inventions known as mutually respectful patriarchal minds sat down to discuss matters within automobiles, and no doubt, a glass or two of rough Cebreros wine and a the necessary atmosphere of tolerance, quite separate from, yet respectful bit of excellent chorizo sausage. The traveler would do well to emulate of, ideologies of all kinds. their meal. It is almost certain that silence will not have reigned, while it is even It is said that the decision to build a royal hunting lodge in the area more certain that tolerance will. around Navarredonda owes much to the rough road and the beauty of the mountains. At the time His Highness could not even begin to suspect that he The room bore witness to such supposedly disparate opinions as those of was inaugurating the first Parador de Turismo. Fraga Iribarne, Gregorio Peces Barba, Gabriel Cisneros, Herrero de Miñón, Jordi Sole Tura, José Pedro Pérez Llorca and Miguel Roca Junjent.

This would in fact be the first and only hotel at the start of the Paradores Network, the result of a royal whim of King Alfonso XIII. The monarch, with This first Parador is more than justified in proudly displaying a plaque his instinct and taste for the hunt, chose this site to establish a resting place commemorating the event. And to retain some part of this just and and inn to accompany his hunting pursuits. reasonable harmony, this handful of tolerant and accommodating politicians signed a copy of the current Spanish Constitution, on view here It was 1926 when His Majesty decided – after a great many doubts and for the visitor to see. alternate locations – to order the construction of the first of what would, not much later, become the Paradores Network of Spain. Following many ups and downs, adventures, fortunes, and misfortunes, this hotel is without a doubt presently the favored destination of a broad Several years later, José Antonio Primo de Rivera would visit Gredos, range of well-informed people. This highly specialized flood of polyglot and even this very same Parador, to found the Spanish Falange Party. visitors travel to the steep mountains of Almanzor with the most varied of reasons and interests. They come for the unusual natural features; for the Many years later, in 1978, this Parador would host the seven figures clime, as harsh as it is satisfying and healthy; for the famous unique responsible for drawing up the final draft of the Spanish Constitution locations for walking and hiking, with a variety which is difficult to under the reign of King Juan Carlos. match; and sites with ethnographic relics, physical proof of the passage and traces which prehistoric civilizations and cultures have left throughout From this wooded site a hopeful, although uncertain, democratic future this area. was announced to all Spaniards. There would be months of relative uncertainly, while the supposedly unquestionable Official Bulletin of the These fertile awe-inspiring mountains and lowlands are a mysterious upper house of Parliament was employed in resolving more than a blend of history, geography, and capricious weather. Sometimes pleasant and thousand amendments inspired by a wide variety of ideologies and sometimes inclement, it is frequently harsh. However, it produces excellent

GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR 3 results: dry, icy winters which are often sunny. While the visitor is enjoying a essence of these peaks, “when the soul is filled with the vision of the spring-like setting, the thermometer may show quite a few degrees below summits, of quiet, peace and oblivion, it is also cleansed and restored by zero. The spring frequently offers lovely dawns and dusks, so showy that the silent peaks. On these climbs, these escapes, one is stripped naked of they almost seem to be artificial. The peaks and valleys are invaded by decorum, of that horrendous and stupid decorum, and one wears one’s splendorous yellow seas of laburnum enveloped in a sweet scent. heart upon one’s sleeve.”

The failing light of autumn brings fierce snowstorms filled with fruitful However, perhaps the prosaic, needier visitor would prefer to follow the dialogue in the shadow of the fireplace. The Parador de Turismo boasts a health advice of Gregorio Marañón, who discovered the source of eternal 15th-century Gothic front from Segovia, and valuable oils by the youth right there: “Gredos is something quite extraordinary, the sum of all Extremaduran painter Adelardo Covarsi. The function rooms offer chimneys things healthy and admirable. Nowhere in the world will one find together and traditional antique furniture exuding the scent of a recent wax. The beneath such a marvelously blue sky the gentleness of the temperate balconied terrace overlooks pine forests, an inviting and silent space, one of valleys of Arenas, the tonic of harsh weather and the gradations of flowers. those places in which time slips slowly by. What spots to revive the blood of anemics through exercise! What heliotherapy facilities! What admirable locations for the cure of nervous Numerous and highly illustrious have been the acclaimed pens who ailments! And what an incomparable retreat for the healthy in search of a have passed though these timeless mountains: Menéndez Pidal and respite from the daily struggle!” Sánchez Albornoz spent a few days in and Fuente de los Serranos and undertook the ascent “mounted on tranquil horses who knew the sometimes dangerous path.” And although Galdós intended to make a judgment when he wrote of “that horrible stony ground of Avila,” it was Unamuno who came to decipher the greatest

Noble Rough-Hewn Tables

T he visitor should know that they are treading a path of rough trails, along with safety tips. kitchens where a tablecloth is incidental and the menu is not always necessarily a reflection of what is on offer. One must make The so-called Pamplina is an exquisite species of small, wild watercress inquires, intuit, investigate, suggest, and request. Do not trust external which only grows in the pools of clear streams no more than two appearances, only the interior shows all the possibilities, and even then handspans deep. not always. Like the sturdiest of Christians the locals know how to prepare Cod Eating in the northern Gredos can be ritual more than nutritional, which has been virtually consecrated by curious and experienced palates. although it is hardly recommended for the faint of stomach. The sale and capture of Trout and Crabs is prohibited. This should The Potato’s powers are many and almost miraculous. The humble not, however, prevent the visitor from asking. One never knows, it is not tuber only needs the color of the Spicy Paprika of the La Vera Region for nothing that the so-called poachers exist. and perhaps a little Pork Fat. Omelets even set somewhat differently here. There are meat and poultry dishes, lamb or even creamy rice. The Lamb and Kid in stews and roasts are sure to be found anywhere you Beans, which may or may not be from Barco, are prepared with pig’s go. Cochifrito Lamb or Kid stews are prepared in such a way as to make trotters and a bit of spicy chorizo sausage. them difficult to surpass. Some swear that the Veal of these parts has always been just as it should be. The Vegetables are excellent, particularly when mixed and sautéed. With the coming of the autumn rains, one finds innumerable Patches of Slaughtering time is unique and differs around each bend of the road. Mushrooms of all varieties, as exquisite as they are treacherous. The Chorizo Sausage is even better than the Cured Ham and the Blood If the visitor is not an experienced expert, check with the other pickers Puddings offer strange and wonderful flavors. in the area. At the Parador itself you will find information about the best Farmhouse Goats’ Milk and Sheep’s Milk Cheeses are still made

4 GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR locally. The Dark Wines of Cebreros bear a certain resemblance to those Among the many other tasty treats are dishes as surprising as: of Ribera del Duero. -Grilled Suckling Lamb Sweetbreads on a Bed of Leeks. The dessert selection is sweet and abundant, with custard that is almost heavenly, Rice Pudding, and Fried Custard Squares. -Leg of Duck with Fig Compote.

A sure bet is the Parador’s kitchen. Together with the previously -Kid and Lamb Sweetbreads accompanied by the chef’s specialties. mentioned delights, this firstborn royal hotel can boast, with excellent reason, of a menu with is very difficult to surpass. The summertime always brings with it Gazpacho, cold garlic and We regularly offer an extensive and varied repertoire of suggestions: almond soup, Green Young Asparagus, and Eggplant Stuffed with Leeks and Cod. The diner will never have to go without Roast Suckling -Bacon Coated with Bread Crumbs and Fried, served with Lamb, Suckling Pig or Venison, all of which may also be prepared in Cabbage and Potatoes. other ways.

-Salads Based on Green Cheeses (with unique samples of the goats’ Inevitably, with the arrival of autumn, these tables boast dishes and milk cheese obtained from local herds). stews based on the many varieties of Mushrooms which sprout up in this area like clockwork: Boletus, Milk Caps, Morels, and Chanterelles. -Batter-Fried Cod, marinated in a pepper sauce. Desserts include Custard with Honey-Coated Pestiño Pastries, Rice -The exceptional Veal of Avila Grilled and Accompanied by Pudding and, above all, a selection of Cheeses which are as excellent as Mushrooms and other Delights. they are exclusive: Fresh and Cured, Goat’s Milk, Montenegro and Tietar.

THE SECRET RECIPE

TROUT STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS, PEPPERS, AND HERBS -Wash, fillet, dry, and season the fish. Stuff the fish with a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms and garlic. Bake at a reasonably high heat for 10-15 minutes.

THE LAMB OF THE LANDS OF ALMANZOR -Cut the lamb – a young one – in pieces and salt to taste. Let it sit while you fry a few cloves of garlic. Fry the chunks of lamb in a relatively brothy mixture of onion, bay leaf, wine, and paprika (from La Vera, of course). The only other thing needed is enough patience to keep the dish at the lowest heat the cook can manage.

Healthy Prowls

The green and delectable bank of the sacred Tormes, that sweet and clear river, In any case, one should not miss Gredos Lake. The excursion is long, a large and spacious green meadow so it is wise to start early in the morning, at the crack of dawn. Climb up amidst the cold winter, at dusk for a greater chance of seeing mountain goats. Come visit the best green in autumn and spring, place in Spain for paragliding. The green under the force of the burning summer. breadth and depth of the view of Piedrahita from above is not less than pure luxury. Garcilaso de la Vega To give more precise information, should the visitor be new to these herever the walker may cast an eye, he or she will find very mountains, the so-called red pine is indigenous to the area. This plant S distinct pleasures, climes, and landscapes: from colorful tolerates and adapts to grassy meadows where resinous pine species blackberries to mild weather in the southern part of these rocky cannot. (It is said that its needles poison any plant growing beneath its peaks. The north, in contrast, is ancient nobility and unadulterated cold. abundant bows.) Legend has it that one of Christopher Columbus’s three These routes are less festive, more suitable for a peaceful stroll than a caravels was built with the largest boards from these pines. jubilant pilgrimage.

GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR 5 Navarredonda. 13th- . Located in the century Church of San Benito, Alberche Valley. Gothic- 16th-century Church of the Renaissance church with an Assumption, with an extremely exceptional design and fine valuable silver monstrance. altarpiece. Noble 16th-century The Monument to the Peña town hall. Histórica is a space for transcendental meditation: it . In the 12th was here that José Antonio century, an Augustinian Primo de Rivera came to monastery and powerful found the Spanish Falange abbey. The Church of Santa movement. María is a jewel of the Romanesque style and a . The certified historic monument. headquarters for the Valdecorneja Estate, establishment of tourism in belonging to the Álvarez de Gredos. In 1911 the Gredos- Toledo family, sowed these Tormes Society was founded lands with important towns under the auspices of Alfonso until the lords were forced to XIII. The Sanctuary of Nuestra retire: San Martín De La Señora del Espino is an Vega, Navadijos, Garganta excellent example of the Avila Del Villar, Navacepeda, Gothic style. Navalperal And Zapardiel. Today they hold temples, Bohoyo. A gift from landscapes and rough yet Alfonso XI to an excellent hospitable people. steward in his service. The town is a lovely mountain Piedrahita. Capital of the postcard with a proud Gothic marvelous Valdecorneja Estate, church. a gift from Alfonso the Brave to his daughter Doña Urraca. The most wizened of locals The town saw the birth of still recall the time when a terrible bandit set up camp in the area. El Fernando Álvarez de Toledo, the “Grand Duke” of the House of Alba. He Maragato had his secret hideout in the area of Venta del Obispo, just was educated in peaceful pursuits by Luis Vives, Garcilaso and Gracián, before Pico Pass. Among his thousands of misdeeds and atrocities, there and for war by Charles V. Renaissance church with Gothic elements. 18th- are still some who remember the tale of the time a modest friar crossed the century palace of the Dukes of Alba. The town has preserved a lovely wicked bandit’s path, protected only by a humble cassock and flimsy medieval air and holds a market featuring handicrafts and local foodstuffs. sandals. El Maragato demanded that the friar surrender his sandals, but the monk responded to his assailant: “If you want my sandals, or even my Barco de Ávila. Another great territory along the Tormes River habit, remove them from me yourself.” belonging to the Álvarez de Toledo family from the 14th century, by the grace of Enrique II. The Church of the Assumption was Byzantine before it No sooner had the sacrilegious bandit bent down when the impenitent was Gothic, and has a magnificent quadrangular tower where a number of friar picked up a piece of granite and issued El Maragato his final passport storks are frequent visitors. The lovely medieval bridge dates from a to eternal life. previous, although indeterminate, time. Cinematic Valdecorneja Castle. Remains of glorious ancestral homes and a pleasant colonnaded main . Christened in the 12th century. The favorite summer town square whose sheltered businesses and taverns provide a well-earned rest of the bishops of Avila. The Benedictine nuns venerate the stone pillow on for the visiting passer-by. which Saint Teresa meditated. The church has a Gothic air and the main square dates from the 18th century. What remains of Judadera Inn guards For guests with an interest in sports, the Parador can provide detailed the foundations of the union of Spain: “Here Isabel the Catholic was information on a number of activities available: anything from hiking and invested as princess and legitimate heir of the Kingdoms of Castile and mountain climbing to horseback riding and hang gliding. There can be no Leon.” The early-rising Bulls of Guisando, which the illustrious Father doubt that these will not fail to match the expectations and tastes of the Mariana dedicated to the victories of Julius Caesar, still remain, hornless visitor. and rooted to the ground.

Cebreros. Luminescent medieval town. The Old Church dates from the 15th century, and Santiago Church contains interesting altarpieces.

6 GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR Parador de Gredos Ctra. Barraco-Béjar, km. 42. 05635 (Ávila) Tel.: 920 34 80 48 - Fax: 920 34 82 05 e-mail: [email protected] Central de Reservas Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected]

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Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar

GREDOS AND ITS PARADOR 7