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Home , Cauldron Snout, Hardraw Force, High Force, Ingleborough, Malham Tarn, Pennine Way

’S GREAT WALKING | THE

LIMESTONE AND LEGEND: THE SCENIC HIGHLIGHTS OF THE PENNINE WAY Discover the true spirit of the North on England’s original National

Steeped in history and traversing spectacular upland landscapes in some of England’s most popular National Parks, the Pennine Way is the most iconic of England’s Great Walking Trails. Stretching for 268 miles (435km) across England’s wild northern uplands, with a combined ascent that exceeds the height of Mount Everest, it’s also arguably the toughest.

OVERVIEW

• Distance: 74 miles/120km • Start/Finish: /Appleby-in-Westmorland • Number of Days: 8 • Grade: Challenging • Theme: History / Geology • Landscape: Type High Hills & Moorland

Opened in 1965, the Pennine Way blazed a trail for public access to some of England’s wildest landscapes – hitherto the sole preserve of a wealthy elite. Conceived by founder member of Tom Stephenson and popularised by the legendary , the full route follows the rocky spine of England – stretching from the hills of the , through the Dales and onwards through Durham and Northumberland to the Scottish Border. Roughly following the line of the watershed from which great rivers like the Tyne and the Tees, the Lune and the Eden, flow east and west respectively, the bulk of this legendary trail lies at more than 1,000ft/305m above sea level. Our shortened 8-day itinerary explores the striking landscapes of in the before climbing up onto the lonely massif of Cross , where the Lakeland are clearly visible across the Eden . The spectacular finale follows the headwaters of the to the head of the breath-taking High Cup Nick before descending along the lip of this steep-sided glacial and finishing in the historic market town of Appleby.

THE ROUTE

This itinerary breaks down the 8-day itinerary into daily sections of between 7 and 27km/4.5 and 17 miles. The shorter days allow for transfers in and out on the first and last days. Owing to the nature of the terrain and limited accommodation en route, only minimal options for flexing the itinerary exist – although back-packers will benefit from a little more flexibility.

DAY 1 SKIPTON TO MALHAM

START: Catch the 210 bus from Skipton to Malham and enjoy a short ‘leg-stretcher’ to familiarise yourself with the terrain. This 4.5-mile circular walk explores the jaw-dropping natural amphitheatre of , the ‘clints’ and ‘grykes’ of the above and the waterfalls below before returning to the bustling little hamlet of Malham, where the lively pubs will be packed with fellow hikers. Stay at pub or B&B in Malham. 7km/4.5 miles

DAY 2 MALHAM TO HORTON-IN-

Your first day on the Pennine Way proper leads north, past tranquil and over into Three Peaks Country – named after the trio of 2000ft/610m mountains that dominate this landscape: , and Pen-y-gent (Mountain of the Winds). Scale the rugged southern face of Pen-y-gent before descending into the pretty Yorkshire Dales village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Stay at pub or B&B in Horton. 24km/15 miles.

DAY 3 HORTON-IN-RIBBLESDALE TO

Follow the upstream to the stunning viaduct at before following old packhorse routes around the summit of 2191ft/668m Dodd Fell and descending into – famous for the eponymous cheese so beloved of Wallace and Gromit – to reach your overnight destination of Hawes. This close-knit upland village is the centre of a farming community that ekes out a living on these remote fells. Village pubs like The Board Inn offer superb local ales and hearty food and the local creamery – home of Wensleydale Cheese – is not to be missed! 22.5km / 14miles DAY 4 HAWES TO THE TAN HILL INN

Leaving Hawes, stop off at the powerful cascade of Force before continuing north on the sustained climb to the summit of . A stunning panorama stretching for 40 miles in each direction rewards your efforts before descending into the gentler, flower-filled pastures of and the achingly pretty villages of Thwaite and Keld. Admire the geometric patterns inscribed on the landscape by the dry stone walls before climbing again to reach the sanctuary of Britain’s highest pub: the Tan Hill Inn – for the definitive Pennine Way pub experience. 25.7km/16 miles.

DAY 5 TAN HILL INN TO MIDDLETON-IN-

The longest day on the trail crosses the boundary into and traverses lonely moorland and secret valleys, where the wildflowers are at their best in late spring. This is the most remote section of the trail and you’ll only have the upland birds and grazing cattle for company while distant echoes of Roman Legions and Bronze Age burials are carried away on the breeze into the rustling cotton grass. The descent into Middleton is one of the scenic highlights of the walk. You’ll be ready for a pint at one of this handsome town’s many inns. 27km/17 miles

DAY 6 MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE TO LANGDON BECK

Follow the river beneath brooding crags upstream to the thundering waterfalls that punctuate the Upper Tees Valley. Revel in the wildflowers that carpet your route in this largely undiscovered Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and marvel at the mighty torrents of and , where the Tees tumbles over the – the fault line where iron-hard volcanic dolerite meets softer sedimentary rocks to spectacular effect. Detour for coffee and cake to the informative Bowless Visitor Centre and stay at the Langdon Beck Hotel – another quirky country inn. 12.8km/8 miles

DAY 7 LANGDON BECK TO

Fuel up with a full English breakfast for a big day ahead that most aficionados agree is the best day on the entire Pennine Way. Scramble over the rock formations beside the River Tees to another stunning waterfall at , before striking out west across the exposed vastness of the Plateau to the stark eastern escarpment of the Eden Valley. Admire the huge views across to the Lakeland fells before encountering the deep glacial gorge of High Cup Nick. Stride out along its northern lip then descend into the hamlet of Dufton. 19km/12 miles

DAY 8 DUFTON TO APPLEBY-IN-WESTMORLAND

Enjoy a lie-in before gently ambling down the Eden Valley to Appleby-in-Westmorland, another vibrant market town with a good choice of pubs and restaurants to celebrate journey’s end. The train journey back to Skipton on the scenic Settle-Carlisle railway is one of the most spectacular journeys in Europe - the perfect book-end to your Pennine Way adventure. 6.4km/4 miles

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation on this section of the Pennine Way can vary from welcoming village Inns like the Lister Arms at Malham to remote yet lively upland pubs such as the iconic Tan Hill Inn – the highest pub in Britain (1732ft/528m above sea level). If the snow starts to fall, your stay may be longer than anticipated…!

TRAVEL

AIR/RAIL

Flights into Airport followed by train to Skipton then 210 bus to Malham to join the trail. Return train to Leeds on the scenic Settle Carlisle railway then transfer to airport. From Manchester and Newcastle airports, the train journey is circa three hours. Train from London to Skipton: three hours.

FERRIES Car Ferry to Hull from Rotterdam then two-hour (130km) drive to Skipton. Return direct to Skipton via rail on Settle Carlisle Railway. Collect car and return to Hull for ferry.

NEED TO KNOW

While there is a good choice of accommodation at each end of this itinerary in Skipton and Appleby, accommodation en route is limited and it’s wise to book ahead well in advance. The limestone sections are usually well-drained, but the sections further north could be water-logged in winter and early spring so walking boots and a full set of waterproofs are recommended. The route remains open all year, but snow and ice can make some sections quite challenging during the winter months (November – March) – particularly the Malham, Pen-y-gent and High Cup Nick sections. The longest days (24km and 26km) may present a challenge to complete in daylight during these months.

FOOD & DRINK

They take beer very seriously in these parts and walkers will find a bewildering range of local to slake their thirst – ranging from light refreshing pale or golden ales like Hadrian and Border Brewery’s Pennine Ambler to dark and complex brews like Wensleydale Brewery’s Black Dub that are often strong in alcohol. The best food options can be found in the pubs and inns, where hearty pies, warming stews and local lamb feature heavily on the menu.

CREATE YOUR OWN TRIP

Want to go solo and design your own itinerary? There’s a huge range of resources at the website: www.nationaltrail.co.uk. Plan your own bespoke itinerary and find recommended accommodation en route.

GUIDEBOOKS AND FURTHER READING

Pennine Way Official National Trail Guide by Damian Hall. Pub Aurum Press 2012 The Pennine Way by Paddy Dillon. Pub Cicerone Press 2017. A Pennine Way Companion by Alfred Wainwright (Revised Edition Chris Jesty. Pub Frances Lincoln 2012*