1 The Best of & Labrador

You’ve done the Florida sun, the European tour, the Caribbean cruise, and the all-inclusive resort, but what you really want is something different. You want to experience something natural and untamed, to relax and rejuvenate without resorting to laziness. You want to create your own vacation memories, not reenact someone else’s itinerary. You yearn for a place unlike any other, somewhere that hasn’t been sanitized and packaged for official tourist consumption. Well, now you’ve found it: Newfoundland & Labrador, the Far East of the Western world. Here, in ’s youngest and most easterly province, untold adventure awaits your discovery. What’s around the next bend in the highway? Could it be a double rainbow? A breaching humpback? A glistening iceberg? A beaming lighthouse? There’s no script or schedule here, so you never know what you’ll find when you start to explore. The key word here is “explore”—some of your most treasured memories will be found on the roads less traveled. The rustic majesty that is Newfoundland & Labrador can be summed up in two words: “people” and “place.” Both are unforgettable. The inhabitants of this isolated locale are as real as it gets. They are unpretentious, thoughtful, and witty. They’ll charm you with their accents and their generous spirit. Though their lifestyle is neither opulent nor lavish, they will never hesitate to help a per- son in need. It comes from living in a harsh environment where a helping hand can make the difference between survival and some other, ugly, alternative. Newfoundland & Labrador’s landscape and its animal inhabitants are equally remarkable. There are fjords and mountain vistas of stunning beauty. Places where sky meets horizon in blazing color, and where stands of spruce flow in an evergreen sea. Here, salmon launch themselves against the current and traffic slows for road-hopping rabbits. It is a place where howling winds have blown trains off their track and arctic air chills your backbone. As any local will tell you, this is the most blessedly cursed union of land, sea, air, and sky in creation. Come here once, and you’ll have a perpetual longing to return. Up until the last decade, Newfoundland was virtually undiscovered as a tourist destination. Even most Canadians hadn’t been to “the Rock.” But over the past 10 years, the province has put great effort into promoting itself through- out and on the global stage. Newfoundland & Labrador has only recently revealed itself to the world as an exciting destination. So be patient as you make your way throughout Newfoundland & Labrador, understanding that tourism is a new industry for the province and that services are not as abundant as they are in certain other locales. And really, isn’t that why you’re coming here in the first place? Note: The following pages are designed to give you a quick overview of the best Newfoundland & Labrador has to offer. Wherever possible, I have included at least one attraction per category for every region of the province. 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Moments A Contagious Spirit This is a true story about the potent influence of the Newfoundland character. While traveling on a Toronto subway, a family of four were chatting amongst themselves. Their lilting Irish-English accents signaled that they were obviously from Newfoundland, as did their friendly smiles and greetings to fellow commuters. Surprisingly, that jaded throng of usually sullen subway riders smiled back. Some even nodded in return. It wasn’t long before someone asked if they were from Newfoundland. The affirmative response encouraged the stranger to ask if they were on vacation, and if they had yet seen a Toronto Blue Jays baseball game. Hearing that they hadn’t, he explained that his company had season tickets set aside for its employees. He said no one was using the tickets for the next day’s game, and offered them to the Newfoundland family because they had brightened up his day. He then gave them his business card so they could arrange to pick up the tickets later that evening. A whole subway car full of people actually took the time to acknowledge each other as individuals, one of them even extending his hand in a spon- taneous act of generosity, all because a small group of Newfoundlanders had followed their natural instinct to greet their fellow travelers.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Walk the streets of St. John’s: St. unforgettable marriage proposal. John’s is one of the most interest- Find your inner romantic; see ing and visually exciting cities I’ve chapter 3, p. 64. ever been to. The city is relatively • Put the wind in your sails on small, and many of the top sights board the Scademia: Head out can be found within a four-block through the Narrows of St. John’s radius of the harbor. See chapter 3. harbor on a 27-m (90-ft.), full- • Stand on top of Signal Hill: You rigged schooner. If that doesn’t literally have a city at your feet have you feeling like a true New- when you stand at the base of foundlander, the “screech-in” cere- (walk around the mony ought to do the trick. See tower to the other side and you’ll chapter 3, p. 73. be gazing down at the broad • Dance the night away on expanse of the ). George Street: With the most It’s one of those must-see pilgrim- nightclubs per capita in North ages for any visitor to the capital America all clustered together on a city, and even for a good many two-block stretch, it’s like visiting local residents. See chapter 3, a northern New Orleans. There’s p. 67. something for everyone on • Watch the sun come up at Cape George Street (rap, jazz, tradi- Spear: On this, the most easterly tional, contemporary, and more). point in North America, a spec- Find your favorite nighttime tacular sunrise, swirling surf, and hotspot in section 10, “St. John’s picturesque lighthouse make Cape After Dark,” in chapter 3. Spear the perfect location for an THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 3

Spirit of Newfoundland Value

You’ll have an unforgettable evening of first-class food and entertain- ment with Spirit of Newfoundland Productions , the province’s best dinner theater experience. Talented singers and actors retain their comic characters throughout the night, even when pressed into service as waiters and waitresses. You may even find yourself spontaneously trans- formed from passive audience member to unsuspecting active partici- pant! Some of the shows are quintessentially Newfoundland, others, such as tributes to Frank Sinatra and Patsy Cline, have broader appeal. All this plus a delicious three-course meal for just C$45 (US$32). Spirit of Newfoundland Productions take place at two St. John’s venues, both located on Duckworth Street. To find out about the latest show, or to make a reservation, call & 709/579-3023, or go to www.spiritof newfoundland.com.

• Find your lucky rock at Middle • Experience an active archaeolog- Cove Beach: Just outside St. ical dig at the Colony of Avalon: John’s, this stony beach is covered Walk the oldest cobblestone street with striped treasures. If you find in North America and see artifacts a stone with a complete white cir- from a 16th-century settlement. cle around it, that’s your lucky You’ll learn about ancient battles rock. If you find one with a dou- for property ownership, and skir- ble white circle (like I did), you’ve mishes with marauding privateers. got double the luck! It’s a cheap See chapter 4, p. 90. way to have some fun, and maybe • Dig into history at Bell Island: pick up a few inexpensive sou- It’s just a 30-minute boat ride from venirs for friends or family back Portugal Cove, but a giant step home. See chapter 3, p. 66. back in time when you explore the • Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Bird abandoned iron-ore mines of Bell Rock: I felt as though I was sitting Island. Or step back even further on top of the world on that cliff with a scuba diving expedition to overlooking Bird Rock at Cape St. the wreckage of sunken ships that Mary’s Ecological Reserve. surround the island’s perimeter. Imagine gazing into the eyes of Find out how you can organize thousands of squawking gannets your own Bell Island adventure in nearly within arm’s reach! See chapter 4, p. 102. chapter 4, p. 92. • Explore Cape Bonavista: This • Get sprayed by the Spout: A nat- remarkable place at the northern ural geyser that shoots saltwater tip of the Bonavista Peninsula has more than 60m (197 ft.) into the something for everyone. You’ll find air. You’ll be wet, cold, and tired a colorful lighthouse with a striking by the time you get there . . . and view, learn some interesting mar- you won’t even notice. You’ll be itime history, and have a chance to too awestruck by every step along get close to Atlantic puffins. When this spectacular seacoast journey. your eyes have had their fill, head For directions, see chapter 4, to the nearby town of Bonavista for p. 81. lunch. See chapter 5, p. 116. 4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

• Race to the finish at the • Chart a course for the Aviation Clarenville Dragway: If you Museum: Experience the history enjoy the smell of burning rubber of Gander’s love affair with flight, and the sound of roaring engines, as depicted through storyboards, you’ll thrill over the full-throttle scale model displays, and actual antics of these hot rods, muscle decommissioned aircraft. And if cars, and motorcycle maniacs. It’s you’ve ever dreamed of becoming not the Indy 500, but it’s still a pilot, you can move a step closer adrenaline-pumping action. See to that dream when you park chapter 5, p. 109. yourself in the cockpit of a DC- • Get carried away by Rising Tide: 38. See chapter 6, p. 133. Here’s professional theater in both • Applaud enthusiastically for the indoor and outdoor venues, in the A.N.D. Company’s Summer heart of Newfoundland’s most Theatre Festival: The only thing visually historical community. you’ll forget about this theater Whether it’s the comedic charac- company is that the actors are ters of the Trinity Pageant, or the amateurs—such is the range of haunting tragedy of a more serious their repertoire and talent. Your dramatic production, you’re sure ticket not only gets you access to a to be impressed by the Rising Tide great show, but also brings the sat- theater company. Not to be isfaction of knowing you’re sup- missed! To reserve your seats, see porting local youth. See chapter 6, chapter 5, p. 113. p. 134. • Float on a sea of contentment • Cruise the South Coast: Visit the with Mag-Ami Kayaking: Take most isolated communities on the some first-class kayak instruction island portion of the province. with expert guides who know all These rare gems of outport perfec- the best spots for seeing seabirds, tion are accessible only by coastal icebergs, caves, and whales. And, boat. They might not have pave- even though you’ll feel like you ment, but they’re also free of traf- could paddle forever, you’ll be fic jams and road rage. A trip to only mildly disappointed when it’s the South Coast is the best way to time to stop for a break. That’s get up close and personal with the when your guides break out the best (people) and worst (isolation) kettle for a traditional Newfound- of rural Newfoundland. See chap- land beach boil-up. See chapter 5, ter 6, p. 141. p. 114. • Set sail on a Viking adventure: • Light up your day with a trip to Take your place at the oar on the Cape Bonavista Lighthouse: board a replica Viking knarr with This step back in time is informa- Viking Boat Tours. It’s a full- tive, introspective, and breathtak- fledged Viking-style ocean-going ingly beautiful. Inside, you’ll be adventure: you can even dress in greeted by costumed interpreters traditional garb for a more and a realistic portrayal of life as it authentic experience. Still, I doubt once was for the lighthouse keeper the Vikings would have approved and his family. Outside, you’ll be —only good, clean fun is allowed equally enraptured by the sur- on this ship. For information on rounding countryside and flowing how to book your Nordic adven- seascape. See chapter 5, p. 116. ture, see chapter 7, p. 154. THE BEST SPOTS FOR OBSERVING WILDLIFE & NATURE 5

• Leave the world behind on • Sail the fjords of Gros Morne: Quirpon Island: This isolated It’s a truly magnificent feeling to island retreat is the perfect escape sail across Western Brook Pond from techno-society. Amenities in Gros Morne National Park, as include hearty home-cooked you pass countless waterfalls and meals, endless waves, iceberg feel at peace with nature. All of views, and conversations with Gros Morne is a must-see, but for whales. It’s just you and your me this was the highlight. See thoughts for company. See chap- chapter 8, p. 176. ter 7, p. 157. • Get ringside seats for the best • Plan an extreme adventure with light show on Earth: Standing on Driftwood Inn and Backcoun- the deck of the St. Barbe–Blanc try Adventures: Hidden far from Sablon ferry, you’ll witness the the blacktop is a different kind of aurora borealis—a celestial fire- highway. Instead of tractor trailers works display of unparalleled and bumper-to-bumper traffic, beauty. The night sky will be lit this “roadway” is accessible only with random flickers of cascading by snowmobile in winter and brilliance, in ever-changing shades ATV in summer. Along the way of red, gold, and green. As if that through this spectacularly moun- weren’t enough, you’ll get double tainous region, you’ll cross paths impact in the water-reflected with , black bear, and wan- glory. To book your front-row dering fox. See chapter 7, p. 158. seat, see chapter 9, p. 185. • Visit the province’s last pocket • Climb the lighthouse tower at of French settlement, on the Point Amour: Even though my Port au Port Peninsula: It’s the knees didn’t especially like it, I only place in the province where truly enjoyed the steep climb to French displaces English as the the top of the tallest lighthouse in native language. Ici, on parle Atlantic Canada. You’ll get a spec- français. Language, however, is tacular view (including a bird’s- just one part of a larger cultural eye view of some of the oldest dynamic. Here you’ll find a more fossils found in North America), overt Roman Catholic heritage, learn quite a bit about naval his- and a genuinely French joie de tory and shipwrecks, and have the vivre—singularly unique in a soci- chance to hike the Raleigh Trail ety of primarily English and Irish when you’re done. See chapter 9, descent. See chapter 7, p. 166. p. 194.

2 The Best Spots for Observing Wildlife & Nature • The Fluvarium: This interesting Newfoundland’s many freshwater facility is in the heart of St. John’s ponds. See chapter 3, p. 64. and next to one of its nicest parks, • See fish in action at the Ocean making it easily accessible to those Sciences Centre: It’s the unoffi- using public transport and very cial star of Logy Bay, an impressive convenient to campers next door scientific research facility (open in . The Fluvarium only at certain hours, and via offers a firsthand look at the guided tour) that has an outdoor underwater world of brook trout seal tank (no set schedule, drop by and other creatures that inhabit anytime). You’ll be entertained for 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

hours by the comical antics of the • Watch salmon return to their resident seals as they splash and annual spawning grounds at the dive in their own private pool. If Salmonid Interpretation Centre: you’re lucky, you may even see Here you’ll get both a surface and them interacting with Centre an underwater view of these staff—and being rewarded for homeward-bound fish as they their efforts with a tasty fish. See make their annual against-the- chapter 3, p. 65. current pilgrimage. See chapter 6, • Route 10, The Irish Loop: Head p. 134. south of St. John’s and you’ll find • White-water raft with Red a number of the province’s best Indian Adventures: Your exhila- nature attractions within close rating ride through breathtaking proximity. At Bay Bulls/Witless scenery just might include passing Bay Ecological Reserve seabirds a black bear or moose. You’ll see abound, numbering more than the province in a way you never 2.5 million, including 500,000 thought possible from the high- Atlantic puffins. The waters are way. See chapter 6, p. 139. also full of playful humpback • Twillingate and Iceberg Alley: whales. A herd of caribou can This is the place to be if you’re often be seen from the highway thrilled by the sight of towering near , and if you’re really icebergs and massive whales. Ice- lucky you may be able to watch bergs are visible here from May the humpbacks feeding off the through July—they seem to linger beach at St. Vincent’s—the whales a bit longer in the bay near Twill- actually heave their massive bodies ingate than they do elsewhere out of the water and snare mouth- around the province. Humpback fuls of food during their descent. whales are in abundance from See chapter 4, p. 94. June through September. See • Visit a wilderness zoo at the chapter 6, p. 136. Salmonier Nature Park: At this • The Great Northern Peninsula: temporary retirement/recovery Anyone looking for a moose is home for aging and wounded ani- bound to spot one here. This mals, you’ll see moose, fox, hare, remote and rugged part of north- lynx, and more in their natural western Newfoundland is home to environment (or almost natural— many of the province’s 150,000 the holding areas are securely big, brown, beautiful creatures. fenced enclosures). The Nature You’ll often see them on or along Park is a pleasant walk and educa- the highway at dusk or dawn, tion expedition combined with a especially during the fall. See rare opportunity to view reclusive chapter 7, p. 144. animals. See chapter 4, p. 91. • Sail amid the glacial castles of • Communicate with some of the the sea with Northland Discov- biggest mammals on Earth with ery Tours: You’ll marvel at the Ocean Contact Ltd.: Join Dr. cracks and colors in 10,000-year- Beamish and learn how to talk (or old icebergs while traveling along- the next best thing) with the side playful dolphins, whales, and whales. You’ll be spellbound watch- seabirds in their natural environ- ing Beamish maneuver his Zodiac ment. To learn how you can get a in and around these graceful taste of Northland Discovery’s giants. To book your tour, see unique eco-tourism adventure chapter 5, p. 115. THE BEST SCENIC DRIVES 7

(not to mention the purest water • Pinware River Provincial Park: on Earth), see chapter 7, p. 153. Most of the Labrador Straits area • The Tablelands: Students of geol- is open, barren land with just a ogy already know that there’s no few stands of tuckamore for color. better place to be than Newfound- Not here. In Pinware Park you’ll land & Labrador, commonly find a verdant spruce carpet in a known as the Rock. And there’s sheltered valley, as well as abun- no more spectacular example of dant freshwater fish and extreme the world’s natural geological kayaking conditions (for experts forces than this particularly scenic only!). To learn more about the part of Gros Morne National park, see chapter 9, p. 190. Park, just south of Woody Point. • Trans Labrador Highway: If The park has been named a you’re traveling across Labrador, UNESCO World Heritage Site in keep a sharp eye on the side of the consideration of this natural won- road. You never know what may der. See chapter 8, p. 175. cross your path. It could be a por- • Gros Morne Adventures: Guided cupine or even a caribou. If you’re sea kayaking tours through the watching carefully, you just might sheltered waters of Bonne Bay give catch a glimpse of a rare double or you a sea-level view of bald eagles, triple rainbow. Be extra careful terns, and other wildlife. You’ll be driving the highway at night, gliding through one of the most though—you’re likely to be so scenic areas of the province: entranced by the aurora borealis mountains, fjords, and glacial that you might end up in a ditch! deposits are just a few of the fea- Note: The “best of” rating is for tures you’ll encounter along your what you’ll see along the way. It is paddling adventure. See chapter 8, not an endorsement of the high- p. 176. way itself. See chapter 9.

3 The Best Scenic Drives • Road: Just a 15- • Middle Cove to minute drive south of St. John’s, (pronounced “pooch cove”): In Cape Spear is the most easterly the opposite direction from Cape point in North America, a Spear and Petty Harbour are the National Historic Site, and site of close-knit communities of Logy the Cape Spear Lighthouse. Be Bay–Middle Cove–Outer Cove, sure to bring a sweater, as Cape Torbay, Flat Rock, and Pouch Spear is often windy and consider- Cove (follow routes 30 and 20). ably colder than the city of St. There’s an interesting contrast John’s. If you’re enjoying the drive, along the drive: nestled in continue a little farther south between the farmland and obvi- toward the scenic fishing village of ously rural lifestyle are some of the Petty Harbour. It won’t take you most prestigious properties on the more than an hour to drive the island, evidence of the growing complete circle from St. John’s prosperity in this part of the to Cape Spear–Petty Harbour– province. See chapter 3. Goulds–Kilbride and back to St. • The Irish Loop: A 4-hour round- John’s (2 hours if you stop at Cape trip drive through the heart of Spear). See section 5, “Exploring Newfoundland’s Irish heritage St. John’s,” in chapter 3. and caribou country. You’ll see 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

beautiful coastal communities for moments, though for the main it all but a short strip between doesn’t qualify as a scenic drive. Salmonier and the Trans-Canada But the loop journey from the Highway. The rest of the drive is a ankle to the toe and back (routes panorama of rugged shore and 222, 220, and 213) is a different outport loveliness. Follow Route story. Here you’ll follow a coastal 10 south of St. John’s. If you stay trail with an obvious maritime on the same route (the name theme. Highlights of the trip are changes to Route 90 about the lobster pots, fishing boats, halfway), only turning right when and immaculate wharf facilities you reach the Trans-Canada, you’ll spot along the side of the you’ll be carried back to the capi- road. See chapter 5. tal city. See section 2, “The Irish • The Kittiwake Coast: It’s a long Loop,” in chapter 4. drive from Gambo through the • The Baccalieu Trail: This stretch assorted towns and villages along of road gets my vote for the most the north coast (routes 320–330) scenic drive in the province. The before heading back to the Trans- tiny outport communities that Canada at Gander, but it’s so line the shores of this finger of the worth the effort. En route are pic- between Trinity ture-perfect picnic spots, a sandy and Conception bays are simply beach (rare in this part of the beautiful. Routes 80 and 70 will world), and the community take you to inviting communities known as the “Venice of New- such as Heart’s Delight, Heart’s foundland.” See chapter 6. Content, and Harbour Grace. But • The Viking Trail: At the commu- remember to get off the highway nity of Deer Lake you can get on and drive right into the villages in Route 430, which will take you order to truly enjoy the beauty. north along the western shore of See section 4, “The Baccalieu the Great Northern Peninsula. Trail,” in chapter 4. You’ll pass through Gros Morne • Route 230 from Trinity Bight to National Park, Port au Choix Bonavista: Beautiful in any sea- National Historic Site, L’Anse aux son, this stunning stretch of high- Meadows National Historic Site, way is especially breathtaking and the town of St. Anthony, when cloaked in early fall foliage. where you’re likely to see an ice- You’ll find yourself wanting to berg or two. In between all these pull over at every bend in the road spectacular highlights, the road so you can really appreciate the takes you through some hand- incredible views. The shining stars somely rugged and remote coun- of the journey are the towns of tryside. See chapter 7. Trinity and Bonavista and the • Port au Port Peninsula: Just west striking landscape seen from the of Stephenville on the west coast end of the road at Cape Bonavista. of Newfoundland is the last See chapter 5. pocket of predominantly French • The foot of the Heritage Run: settlement on the island. Here If you look at the Burin Penin- you’ll see religious icons and sula on a map, you’ll notice it ancient war relics, as well as the resembles a leg with a foot on the largest wooden structure and the end. The long “leg” of the Her- highest mountain in the province. itage Run has some memorable See chapter 7. THE MOST PICTURESQUE VILLAGES 9

• The Straits Highway: Route 510 tour the interesting communities takes you from the ferry at Blanc and many historical attractions Sablon, Quebec, to the captivat- found on the Labrador Straits. ing outport of Red Bay, Labrador. Highlights include a sunken ship, It’s a good paved road (one of the a 7,500-year-old burial mound, few in Labrador, so take advantage and the tallest lighthouse in of it) and gives you a chance to Atlantic Canada. See chapter 9.

4 The Most Picturesque Villages • Petty Harbour (Greater St. retreat. See section 4, “The Bac- John’s): Just 15 minutes south of calieu Trail,” in chapter 4. St. John’s, this peaceful and quaint • Dildo (Avalon Peninsula): If the fishing village has been the back- name alone isn’t enough to spark drop for a number of films. With your curiosity, you might be its aging fishing sheds, wooden attracted by this historical fishing slipways, and cliff-hugging houses village’s proud seafaring history. tucked within a protective hillside And then there’s its aesthetic embrace, its attraction as a movie beauty: it was named one of set is readily apparent. It’s amazing Canada’s prettiest towns, and to find such a picturesque and you’re sure to agree when looking well-preserved piece of traditional at the wonderful view of Trinity Newfoundland culture just min- Bay. Green space and simple utes from the capital city. See wooden fences add to Dildo’s rus- chapter 3, p. 67. tic charm. See section 4, “The • Village (Greater St. Baccalieu Trail,” in chapter 4. John’s): Pronounced “kiddee vid- • (Avalon Peninsula): dee,” this historical fishing village Aside from the unique lure of its has managed to stop time in its ongoing archaeological dig tracks. You’re not more than 5 (impressive as that is), the town of minutes’ drive from the traffic of Ferryland is a strikingly attractive St. John’s, yet Quidi Vidi has the community. It flows down from oldest cottage in North America, the hills in graceful descent to sea horses grazing on the cliffs over- level, layers of green grass and looking the peaceful lake, and rocky knolls sprinkled amidst timeless fishing sheds snuggling stubborn settlement. On the small up to the granite cliffs that guard peninsula extending out from Fer- its sheltered harbor. See chapter 3, ryland Harbour is a lighthouse, its p. 66. blinking eye a haunting reminder • Brigus (Avalon Peninsula): This of the tragedy that can befall tiny fishing village has won a unwary sailors. To plan your visit “Tidy Towns Award” for its pris- to Ferryland, see chapter 4, p. 85. tine appearance. You’ll see lots of • Trinity (Bonavista Peninsula): beautiful flowers and overhanging Time seems to have stood still for trees lining the narrow streets that this quaint fishing village that has lead to the harbor, and an abun- preserved many of its 19th-cen- dance of heritage-style homes that tury buildings. Or, if it hasn’t give the town a real step-back-in- stood still, there’s certainly a con- time feel. If you’re looking to certed community effort to turn make the modern world go away back the clock. If you climb for a while, Brigus is the perfect the hill from Courthouse Road 10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

behind the Royal Bank just before it, as it’s hidden from view on a sunset, you’ll get one of the most narrow strip of land at the head of beautiful views available any- a fjord. See chapter 6, p. 141. where. See chapter 5, p. 109. • Port aux Basques (Western • Twillingate (Central Region): Region): An often under-appreci- Here is a community perfectly ated community, Port aux Basques positioned for optimum iceberg is more than a relay station for the viewing. With such impressive Newfoundland– ferry. floating monoliths frequenting It has both traditional architec- the shore every spring and early tural beauty and an impressive summer, you’ll be forgiven if your blasted-rock harbor entrance. It attention wanders from the man- takes on a romantic ambiance in made beauty in and around the the twilight hours thanks to the town. But rest assured, Twillingate guidelights used to illuminate the is indeed a complementary com- ferry terminal. And the outdoor position of raw landscape and amphitheater and waterfront human construction. You’ll find it shops invite you to stroll around at the northern tip of Route 340. the harbor. See chapter 7, p. 163. See chapter 6, p. 136. • Battle Harbour (Labrador): This • Francois (Central Region): At the restored fishing village has 230- opposite end of the compass from year-old buildings and a simple Twillingate is an isolated outport beauty that is nearly haunting. village, accessible only by boat. It Take the half-hour boat ride over has neither paved road nor hotel, to Battle Island and escape the but that doesn’t put Francois at a hustle and bustle of the modern disadvantage. Majestic cliffs ring world, whether for a full-day’s visit the little community, and wooden or overnight in the nostalgic Battle boardwalks serve as the local land Harbour Inn. See section 1, “The highway (the real highway is the Labrador Straits,” in chapter 9. ocean). You’ll have to work to find

Getting to Know Salvage

On the western edge of the Eastern Region, following Route 310 north of Glovertown, is one of the most picturesque (and most photographed!) fishing communities in the province. Salvage (pronounced “sal-vage”) is a visual treat of stages, wharves, sheds, and slipways nestled in and around a granite shore. This, plus the never-ending ocean serenade and houses built in the unlikeliest of places, make Salvage an unforgettable destination.

5 The Best Hikes & Walking Tours • The Haunted Hike (St. John’s): the oldest graveyards in the city, Looking for something different? and add quite a bit of theatrics Tr y this evening stroll in St. John’s along the way to keep your adren- with the Rev. Thos. Wyckham aline pumping. See chapter 3, Jarvis, Esq. He’ll take you on a p. 74. rather eerie walk through some of THE BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES 11

• Signal Hill–Battery Trail (St. intriguing site on the southern end John’s): Not for the faint of heart! of the Great Northern Peninsula. This walk starts at a pinnacle The Phillips Garden Walking height towering over the capital Trail stands out because of its acces- city and follows a thigh-burning sibility and its guided interpretive descent along a dizzying path less walks. See chapter 7, p. 147. than 3m (10 ft.) from the edge of • Gros Morne National Park: It’s a 61-m (200-ft.) drop to the impossible to select one particular North Atlantic. Those brave trail from this park as the best; enough to attempt it are rewarded they’re all very dynamic, and you with the most spectacular scenery can easily find one that meets your in the city. See chapter 3, p. 68. own abilities or interests. If you’re • The (Avalon an experienced hiker and enjoy Region): This fantastic trail sys- the challenges of a difficult climb, tem is easily accessible from St. you’ll find that Gros Morne Trail, John’s and takes you along the the trail that leads to the peak of beautiful coastline of the Avalon Gros Morne Mountain, offers the Region. You can see whales and most spectacular scenery. See seabirds close to shore, and parts chapter 8, p. 169. of the trail are easy enough for the • Edible Trail Hike (Terra Nova beginner. It’s divided into sections National Park): Ever wonder what so you can do as much or as little you would live on if you were lost in as you like, tailoring your hike(s) the woods? You’ll know the answer to your time frame and skill level. after you take part in this guided See chapter 4, p. 79. interpretive walk. Equally impor- • The Discovery Trail (Eastern tant, you’ll know which plants to Region): Similar to the East Coast avoid! See chapter 8, p. 182. Trail, this is also organized into • The Raleigh Trail: On this sections of varying difficulty. coastal hike at Point Amour, Choose your hiking route based Labrador, you can find 500- on what you want to see (sea million-year-old fossils, parts of a stacks? abandoned communities? shipwreck, waterfalls, mouthwa- rocky outcrops?) as well as the level tering berries, and some interest- of difficulty. See chapter 5, p. 115. ing fauna without having to go • Port au Choix National Historic too far off the beaten track. The Site (Western Region): A trio of trail begins at the site of the tallest excellent hiking trails, each with lighthouse in Atlantic Canada. See its own attributes, are at this chapter 9, p. 197.

6 The Best Family Activities • Fluvarium (St. John’s): A first- the whole family. Adults will appre- class interpretation facility where ciate the educational interpretive visitors can go beneath the surface program, while teenagers will be to see trout and underwater species impressed by the oversized displays (the building boasts a glass-walled (and cool audiovisual presentation viewing area). Try to time your with simulated rain and volcanic visit for the day’s scheduled feed- eruptions). Younger children will ing. See chapter 3, p. 64. entertain themselves for hours just • (St. John’s): squirting water at the exposed rock A geological display that’s fun for wall. See chapter 3, p. 65. 12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

• (St. its water-recreation facilities (pad- John’s): If you like trains—and dle boats, kayaks, canoes, and most everyone does—you’ll appre- rowboats) as well as the play- ciate the newest family attraction ground and Ferris wheel. See in the province’s capital city. Don’t chapter 5, p. 113. miss the moving train mobile. See • Frenchman’s Cove Provincial chapter 3, p. 69. Park (Eastern Region): Children • Avondale Railway Station need downtime, too. So, instead Museum (Avalon Region): The of always trying to find activities Trans-Canada Highway is a rela- to fill their day, choose a vacation tively new piece of infrastructure destination that gives them ample for the province, so it’s not that amounts of unstructured play- long ago that trains played an time. Frenchman’s Cove offers a important role in Newfoundland pebble beach, playground, and & Labrador. You can see just how freshwater pond for outdoor important they were at the Avon- swimming. Don’t worry, the dale Railway Station Museum, the adults won’t find themselves at oldest railway station in the loose ends—they can always avail province. There are decommis- of the onsite Robert Heaslip– sioned cars on display, and during designed nine-hole golf course. the summer months children can See chapter 5, p. 124. go for a ride on one of the • Splash-n-Putt (Eastern Region): museum’s small rail cars. See chap- The largest waterpark in the ter 4, p. 98. province, with a 91-m (300-ft.) • Wilderness Newfoundland waterslide. Comes complete with Adventures (Avalon Region): bumper cars, go-karts, and mini- Kayaking is fun for the young and golf. See chapter 5, p. 126. the young-at-heart. Wilderness • Norstead (Western Region): This Newfoundland Adventures has reenactment village depicts the specially designed kayaks so chil- everyday life of Norsemen—and dren too young to paddle on their women—from about A.D. 800 to own can ride with mom or dad. 1000. Norstead’s wonderful Dis- And, for beginners, there’s expert covery Program for kids offers a on-shore instruction before head- hands-on opportunity to partici- ing out onto the water. See chap- pate in the various activities that ter 4, p. 82. would have been carried on in the • Terra Nova Golf Resort (Eastern settlement. Even the teens will be Region): Golfing, nature hikes, shocked out of their chronic bore- mini-golf, tennis, basketball, dom by the clanging swords and swimming, a comprehensive chil- hand-to-hand combat of the mock dren’s program . . . what more battles. See chapter 7, p. 156. could you possibly want? There’s • Newfoundland Insectarium & something for every vacationer at Butterfly Pavilion (Western Terra Nova Golf Resort. See chap- Region): What kid doesn’t like ter 5, p. 108. bugs or butterflies? This is a really • Trinity Loop (Eastern Region): neat facility where kids can have a This amusement/activity park fea- great time watching honeybees tures a working miniature train. buzzing about, stretching out their The train does a loop around the hands to catch a butterfly, getting park, overlooking the pond with some bug-related souvenirs to take THE BEST PLACES TO DISCOVER LOCAL HISTORY & CULTURE 13

home, and having an ice cream terms. It’s especially attractive to when they’re done. See chapter 7, families traveling with teenagers. p. 159. See chapter 7, p. 162. • Marble Mountain (Western • Terra Nova National Park: Terra Region): Winter fun for the whole Nova gets high marks for its fam- family (except toddlers or infants). ily activities. The park has an The 34 ski runs are of varying dif- excellent Junior Naturalist pro- ficulty, making them suitable for gram, nice campgrounds, a sandy everyone from expert to novice. beach for sports and swimming, For the younger set, there’s certi- campfire concert series, great fied ski instruction and a super- hands-on displays at Salton’s vised play program, which means Marine Interpretation Centre, and both parents and children get to a fantastic educational boat tour. enjoy the slope on their own See chapter 8.

7 The Best Places to Discover Local History & Culture • Signal Hill (St. John’s): This • Basilica of St. John the Baptist National Historic Site offers the (St. John’s): For years the largest best view of St. John’s, just a short and most imposing structure on ride from downtown up the hill the St. John’s skyline, the Basilica and past the Geo Centre. It was was one of the few buildings to here that survive the Great Fires that received the first wireless transat- plagued the capital city during the lantic signal, using a kite to catch early part of the 20th century. A the faint transmission from highlight of your visit will be a , England. Climb the viewing of the Veiled Virgin Cabot Tower and time your visit statue. See chapter 3, p. 63. to take in the Signal Hill Military • Quidi Vidi Battery (St. John’s): Tattoo (at the Queen’s Battery In the early battles for control of Interpretation Centre). See chap- this rich fishing colony, residents ter 3, p. 67. constructed heavy fortifications at • Newman Wine Vaults (St. strategic locations throughout the John’s): It’s an unassuming brick city. This quiet hill overlooking building on the outside, a near- Quidi Vidi Harbour was one of solid rock structure on the inside. them. Today, costumed inter- Learn how an accidental side trip preters explain the purpose of the led to Newman Port’s return to installation as well as the number this North Atlantic island for wine of people who resided there and aging. See chapter 3, p. 63. the conditions under which they lived. See chapter 3, p. 66.

Exploring St. John’s Art Galleries

Artists are acknowledged mediums for the ideas and attitudes of their cultural generations. You can see (and buy) the work of some of the most talented artists in the province through one of several downtown art gal- leries: Christina Parker, Emma Butler, and Lane. The new provincial art gallery and museum, , was not open at the time of writing but is scheduled to open in 2004. See chapter 3, p. 69. 14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

• James J. O’Mara Pharmacy Native peoples who once inhab- Museum (St. John’s): Also known ited Dildo Island. Plus, it comes as Apothecary Hall, it displays the with a replica of a giant squid that tools of the trade for pharmacists was caught in the area! See chap- of yesteryear. Some of the items ter 4, p. 98. will look familiar, but others will • Woody Island (Eastern Region): leave you scratching your head in Experience life in a now-resettled puzzlement. As in, they used that Newfoundland community. Learn for what? See chapter 3, p. 68. why it was so hard for people to • No. 2 Mine & Museum (Avalon leave their homes, despite prom- Region): Bell Island will be of spe- ises of better jobs, health care, and cial interest to anyone interested community services. See chapter 5, in mining. Just a short boat ride p. 106. (which you catch in Portugal • Trinity Historical Properties Cove, a short drive from St. (Eastern Region): The entire com- John’s) takes you a world away on munity of Trinity is a living a 1-hour tour of an abandoned heritage village, with residents underground iron-ore mine, embracing their past as the route where you’ll examine interesting to future prosperity. Historical artifacts and photos depicting the highlights include the Lester- people and tools used to tunnel Garland Premises, Hiscock House, under Bell Island and beneath the Trinity Museum, Court House, ocean floor. See chapter 4, p. 102. and Green Family Forge. See • Colony of Avalon (Avalon chapter 5, p. 112. Region): This independently run • Ryan Premises National His- National Historic Site offers a toric Site (Eastern Region): This world-class Interpretation Centre cluster of 19th-century buildings and the chance to have a firsthand is a restoration of the merchant look at an ongoing archaeological premises that served as the hub of dig site. Archaeologists are contin- a once-thriving fishing commu- uing to uncover remnants of the nity. The Interpretive Centre has first successful planned colony in an excellent display about changes Newfoundland, settled in 1621. that have affected the province’s See chapter 4, p. 90. fishery. Also check out the replica • Hawthorne Cottage (Avalon in the harbor of the Matthew, the Region): The former home of three-masted 15th-century vessel famous Arctic explorer Captain sailed by John Cabot to New- Bob Bartlett includes intriguing foundland in 1497. See chapter 5, insights into the life and times of p. 118. the man and his family, as well • Burin Heritage Museum (East- as the struggles he faced on his ern Region): The communities of Arctic expeditions. See chapter 4, Grand Bank and Fortune are p. 98. among the closest in the world to • Dildo Fisheries Interpretation the rich fishing grounds of the Centre: This is a fascinating facil- Grand Banks. Through interpre- ity if you’re interested in the intri- tive panels and traveling exhibits, cacies of a fish hatchery and want this museum pays tribute to that to learn more about the way of life heritage. See chapter 5, p. 126. for Newfoundlanders of the not- • Barbour Living Heritage Village so-distant past as well as the (Central Region): Similar to the THE BEST PLACES TO DISCOVER LOCAL HISTORY & CULTURE 15

Ryan Premises, but on a larger about Port au Choix that has scale. It’s not just a restored com- made it the location of choice for mercial property, but a series of several different Native popula- reconstructed buildings typical of tions? Archaeologists are still try- a 1900 fishing village. They’re ing to puzzle the answer from the more than just historical monu- clues left behind from past civi- ments, however: these multi-pur- lizations (including the Maritime pose buildings also serve as the Archaics, the Groswater, and the local museum, theater, and art Dorset-Paleoeskimo, dating as far gallery. See chapter 6, p. 137. back as 5,500 years ago). See • Boyd’s Cove Beothuk Interpre- chapter 7, p. 147. tation Centre (Central Region): • Grenfell Interpretation Centre With all the hype about John (Western Region): This is a rec- Cabot discovering Newfound- ommended stop for anyone inter- land, and even the Vikings arriv- ested in the early medical history ing a millennium ago, it’s easy to of northern Newfoundland & forget that there were permanent Labrador. Learn about Sir Wilfred residents here long before the Thomason Grenfell, the English Europeans arrived. Boyd’s Cove is doctor who became a local hero to one of those sites that helps us the Inuit and early settlers of the remember. Although little is region. See chapter 7, p. 153. known about Newfoundland’s • L’Anse aux Meadows National now-extinct Beothuk inhabitants, Historic Site (Western Region): Boyd’s Cove sheds some light on Around A.D. 1000, a group of who they were, how they lived, Vikings settled at L’Anse aux and why they were so fond of cov- Meadows on the northeastern tip ering themselves and their tools of the Great Northern Peninsula. with red ocher. See chapter 6, An excellent Visitor Centre guides p. 138. you in your exploration of this • Dorset Soapstone Quarry (Cen- site, where you’ll walk among the tral Region): Even before the remnants of a 1,000-year-old Beothuk, there were Dorset Indi- Viking village. Plus, there are ans on the island 2,000 years ago. reenactors on hand to demon- Proof of their existence can be strate how these early settlers found in the province’s earliest might have interacted with each known mine, where the Dorset other. See chapter 7, p. 156. mined soapstone for use as bowls • Battle Harbour National His- and cooking pots. See chapter 6, toric District (Labrador): Similar p. 140. to the Ryan Premises of Bonavista • Conne River Mi’kmaq Reserve but even older at about 230 years, (Central Region): Take part in a this restored community tells the powwow celebrating the unique story of the local fishery and how culture of the island’s existing Battle Harbour was once the hub native population, the Conne of Labrador. Battle Harbour is the River Mi’kmaq. The band is suc- only intact salt-fishing village left cessfully integrating elements of in the province and can be modern culture into its traditional reached by a 30-minute boat ride lifestyle. See chapter 6, p. 140. to Battle Island. See section 1, • Port au Choix National Historic “Exploring the Labrador Straits,” Site (Western Region): What is it in chapter 9. 16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

• Red Bay National Historic Site is a reproduction of a wooden (Labrador): This remote outpost whaling ship, surrounded by the on the Labrador coast was once mandible (jawbone) of a bowhead the whaling capital of the world. whale. The area wasn’t treacherous Rumor has it that the name itself just to whales, however; at least came from the color of the water, two ships are known to have gone which was supposedly so bright down in the waters of Red Bay. with whales’ blood that it flowed For more information, see chapter red. Inside the interpretive center 9, p. 195.

8 The Best Festivals & Special Events • Newfoundland & Labrador known performers are from this Folk Festival (St. John’s): This is part of the province, so the lineup an absolute must for all lovers of is always guaranteed to impress. traditional music. The three-day See chapter 4, p. 85. event takes place in downtown St. • NaGeira Theatre Festival John’s during the first weekend of (Avalon Region): Newfoundland August and provides a good vari- is famous for its high-quality, ety of music that includes folk, informal, community theatrical country, bluegrass, and Celtic. See productions. If the thought of sit- chapter 3, p. 70. ting in a beautiful seaside setting • St. John’s Royal Regatta (St. and being entertained appeals to John’s): This is the biggest event of you, you’re quite likely to enjoy the year for St. John’s; its impor- this festival held in Carbonear tance is recognized by its status as each summer. See chapter 4, a municipal holiday. The oldest p. 99. continuous sporting event in • Brigus Blueberry Festival North America offers a day of (Avalon Region): Arrive early, fixed-seat rowing races and lots of because there’s always a crowd in fun for the whole family at Quidi Brigus for this popular event. It’s Vidi Lake (such as games of an excellent venue for buying chance and live entertainment). locally made products such as See chapter 3, p. 71. knitted goods, quilts, and, of • George Street Festival (St. course, blueberry products. See John’s): You’ll enjoy the George chapter 4, p. 95. Street Festival if you’re young (or • Summer in the Bight Theatre at the very least young-at-heart) Festival (Eastern Region): Each and don’t mind loud music and year between June and October, crowds. During the six-day event, the Rising Tide Theatre puts on a a two-block stretch of the down- number of professional shows that town street is closed off, and bars give poignant life to the New- open up their doors and bring in a foundland character and lifestyle. lineup of terrific entertainment. Staged at both indoor and out- See chapter 3, p. 71. door venues, Summer in the Bight • Southern Shore Shamrock Festi- includes the renowned Trinity val (Avalon Region): Traditional Pageant. See chapter 5, p. 113. Irish-Newfoundland music min- • Fish, Fun & Folk Festival (Cen- gles with some modern material tral Region): One of the largest in this popular annual event. and longest running folk festivals Many of the province’s best- in Newfoundland, this event is THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS 17

held the last full weekend of July Region): Treat yourself to a dinner in Twillingate. If you want to have theater production of excellent a great time with the family and regional music, comedy, and gain deeper insight into what drama while in the area of Gros makes Newfoundlanders tick, Morne National Park between plan to take in this event. You’re June and September. The festival likely to see a few icebergs at the is held in the northern part of the same time, because Twillingate is park. Twice weekly, you’ll have the one of the best places in the chance to enjoy a theatrical per- province to spot bergs (even late formance as well as taste some of in July). See chapter 6, p. 139. the best pan-fried cod found any- • Exploits Valley Salmon Festival where. See chapter 8, p. 173. (Central Region): A five-day fam- • Bakeapple Folk Festival ily event and salmon celebration (Labrador): Time your visit to the held each July in Grand Falls– Labrador Straits for the second Windsor. Take time to enjoy weekend of August, when the a performance at the highly bakeapple berries are ripe and the regarded Summer Theatre Festi- biggest summer event of the year val. See chapter 6, p. 134. is taking place. You’ll get four days • Gros Morne Theatre Festival of fun, music, and merriment. See (Gros Morne National Park chapter 9, p. 196.

9 The Best Hotels & Resorts • The Fairmont Newfoundland your stay is enjoyable. See chapter (115 Cavendish Square, St. John’s; 3, p. 52. & 800/441-1414 or 709/726- • Celtic Rendezvous Cottages By 4980; www.fairmont.com): The The Sea (Route 10 to best full-service property in the East; & 866/334-3341 or 709/ province. Although it lacks an 334-3341; www.celticrendezvous outwardly Newfoundland style cottages.com): Don’t stay here if a because of its size and branding, long list of amenities is important you will still find the unique to you. But if you’re looking for a island character in the personality place where you can hear the surf of the caring and professional pounding from inside your cabin staff. See chapter 3, p. 51. or while sitting on the porch over- • (5 Beck’s Cove, looking the rugged coastline, this St. John’s; & 866/738-7773 is a great choice. The cabins pro- or 709/738-7773; www.murray vide a retreat-style atmosphere premiseshotel.com): This is my within 45 minutes’ drive of St. favorite smaller hotel in St. John’s. John’s. See chapter 4, p. 84. You simply can’t beat the attention • The Wilds at Salmonier River to detail so evident at this beauti- (Route 90, Salmonier Line; fully decorated boutique hotel. & 866/888-9453 or 709/229- The staff and management are 5444; www.thewilds.nf.net): Even top-notch, and although the hotel Fido is welcome at this terrific does not offer the full range of family resort. The Wilds has self- services you’ll find at the Fair- contained cabins as well as hotel- mont, everything they do offer— style rooms in the main building. most notably an exceptional A great golf course is on-site, standard of service—will ensure and you’re just minutes from 18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Salmonier Nature Park. See chap- • Vinland Motel (West Street, St. ter 4, p. 88. Anthony; & 800/563-7578 or • Bird Island Resort (Main Rd., St. 709/454-8843; www.vinland Bride’s; & 888/337-2450 or 709/ motel.com/vinland.htm): The 337-2450; www.birdislandresort. Vikings never had it so good. com): Fully equipped efficiency You’ll be surprised by the number units ideal for traveling families. and quality of amenities offered All-ages fun includes mini-golf, here, some of them usually avail- horseshoe pits, and fitness center. able only in much larger establish- There are also laundry facilities ments. Highlights include a on-site—essential for when wee sauna, hot tub, and massage ther- ones make big messes. See chapter apist. See chapter 7, p. 152. 4, p. 93. • Marble Mountain Cabins (Dog- • Kilmory Resort and Trailer Park wood Dr., Steady Brook; & 877/ (Route 210, Swift Current; 497-5673 or 709/634-2237; & 709/549-2410; www.kilmory. www.explorenewfoundland.com): nf.ca): If you were to imagine the It doesn’t have the more exclusive perfect location for a cottage, ambiance of the official Marble you’d probably conjure up a loca- Mountain Resort, and that’s a tion with privacy, alongside a good thing. I find these cabins are pond or lake with timber-studded actually cozier and more inviting hills rising in the background. than their more expensive counter- That’s exactly what you’ll find at parts. The ample on-site amenities Kilmory, along with a pool, play- (sauna, fitness facility, playground) ground, and rustic-luxe facilities. add even more value to the pack- See chapter 5, p. 122. age. See chapter 7, p. 161. • Terra Nova Golf Resort (Port • Strawberry Hill Resort (Exit 10 Blandford; & 709/543-2525; off Route 1 to Little Rapids; www.terranovagolf.com): This & 877/434-0066 or 709/634- fantastic full-service family resort 0066; www.strawberryhill.net): offers a great kids’ program, a When previous guests include a championship golf course, and is former prime minister and royalty, ideally situated for touring the you know it has to be exceptional. Discovery Trail as well as Terra And it is. Outside the luxury of Nova National Park. See chapter the resort itself, Strawberry Hill 5, p. 108. adjoins a teeming salmon river • BlueWater Lodge & Retreat and scenic walking trails. See (Trans-Canada Highway near chapter 7, p. 162. Gander; & 709/424-4600; www. • Shallow Bay Motel & Cabins relax-at-bluewater.ca): A wonder- (Route 430, Cow Head; & 800/ ful place to stay while touring 563-1946 or 709/243-2471; Notre Dame Bay and other points www.shallowbaymotel.com): in the Central Region, the lodge Here you’ll find a kid-friendly has a private, serene setting on a place that takes some of the vaca- small lake, making it a perfect tion stress off mom and dad. retreat for anyone really wanting Beachcombing, all-ages theater, to get away from it all. See chapter and mini-golf are among the 6, p. 136. many features that make Shallow Bay attractive to traveling families. See chapter 8, p. 172. THE BEST BED & BREAKFASTS AND HERITAGE INNS 19

10 The Best Bed & Breakfasts and Heritage Inns • Bluestone Inn (34 Queen’s Rd., in one of “Canada’s 10 Prettiest St. John’s; & 877/754-9876 or Towns”? This lovely B&B has an 709/754-7544; http://theblue attentive owner and a waterfront stoneinn.com): Modern chic location, and it’s right in the heart blends effortlessly with classic of Dildo, an odd-sounding but architectural design for a one-of-a- very beautiful fishing village. See kind B&B. This place has it all: chapter 4, p. 96. splendid downtown location, an • Campbell House (Trinity Bay; interesting history, superlative & 877/464-7700 or 709/464- food, and spacious rooms. See 3377; www.trinityvacations.com): chapter 3, p. 53. This is a wonderful B&B in the • Winterholme Heritage Inn (79 scenic village of Trinity. Gover Rennies Mill Rd., St. John’s; House is one of the buildings that & 800/599-7829 or 709/739- make up Campbell House—and 7979; www.winterholmeheritage my favorite because of its large inn.com): Bring your neck brace deck overlooking Trinity Bay. Not —you’ll need it from constantly suitable for children. See chapter staring upwards at the ornately 5, p. 110. carved woodwork. If you’re a real • Fishers’ Loft Inn (Mill Road, romantic, this may be the place Port Rexton; & 877/464-3240; for you—at least for one night, as www.fishersloft.com): A short the rates are pretty steep. See drive from Trinity, this remote chapter 3, p. 54. property with an ethereal atmo- • Hagan’s Hospitality Home sphere is perfect for anyone seek- (Route 10, ; & 709/ ing peace, tranquility, and really 363-2688; www.haganshospitality. great food. See chapter 5, p. 111. com): It’s not luxurious by any • Humberview B&B (11 Hum- means, but you’ll feel like royalty berview Dr., Deer Lake; & 888/ under the attentive care of Rita 635-4818 or 709/635-4818; Hagan. Features hearty home- www.thehumberview.com): This made food and white-glove clean- B&B offers unparalleled modern liness. See chapter 4, p. 86. luxury in an executive-style home, • Dogberry Hill B&B (Portugal replete with Grecian columns and Cove–St. Philip’s; & 709/895- four-poster bed in the master 6353; www.dogberryhill.com): suite. You’ll wish you could pack it Just 15 minutes’ drive from St. in your suitcase to take home with John’s, this beautifully designed you. See chapter 7, p. 158. B&B offers the finest linens and • Battle Harbour Inn (Battle haute cuisine. If you don’t mind Island, Labrador; & 709/921- paying a little more for that extra 6957 or 709/921-6216; www. level of service and amenities, battleharbour.com): Looking to you’ll really enjoy a stay at the step back in time? This small inn Dogberry. See chapter 4, p. 101. will enable you to do just that. It • Inn By The Bay (78 Front Rd., has wood stoves and oil lamps, Dildo; & 888/339-7829 or 709/ and the setting is in the oldest 582-3170; www.innbythebay intact salt-fish community in the dildo.com): Who can resist staying province. See chapter 9, p. 189. 20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

11 The Best Restaurants • The Bonavista (Fairmont New- Peninsula. You can get a good selec- foundland, St. John’s; & 709/ tion of Newfoundland favorites 726-4980): Every Friday, you’ll here, and the location is handy if find a terrific buffet-style “Jiggs you’re driving the Irish Loop. See Dinner”—a traditional New- chapter 4, p. 84. foundland meal of boiled beef and • Colony Café (Route 10, Ferry- cabbage—that is so good, even the land; & 709/432-3030; www. locals come here for it. The Fair- ferryland.com/colonycafe): A pro- mont is also home to The Cabot fessional French chef waits to Club, a pricier restaurant with tempt your taste buds with succu- exquisite food and a dynamite lent seafood and rich desserts. Sit- view, for those extra-special uated next to the Colony of evenings when you’re looking for Avalon archaeological dig in Fer- something more upscale. See ryland. See chapter 4, p. 86. chapter 3, p. 57–58. • Skipper’s Café (42 Campbell St., • Magnum & Steins (284 Duck- Bonavista; & 709/468-7150): It’s worth St., St. John’s; & 709/576- worth the drive to this lovely 6500): Fine dining in eclectic, waterfront restaurant in the his- funky surroundings. A master- toric village of Bonavista if you piece of contemporary gastro- like seafood and don’t want to pay nomical delights—not to be big prices. You’ll find terrific missed! See chapter 3, p. 58. seafood chowder, cod au gratin, • The Bread Pig (21 Queen’s Rd., and other delectable dishes—a St. John’s; & 709/579-4788): great reward after doing some This is a good place to come if touring of the historical sites in you’re looking for a casual bistro- the village and at Cape Bonavista. style atmosphere. Lunches include See chapter 5, p. 118. gourmet pizzas, steamed mussels, • Alcock & Brown’s (Hotel Gan- and a variety of soups and sand- der, 100 Trans-Canada Highway wiches. The Bread Pig is also a [Route 1]; & 800/563-2988 or bakery and chocolatier, so you’re 709/256-3931): When you can’t bound to find something to tempt make up your mind between you here. See chapter 3, p. 58. upscale and casual, head to Alcock • Nautical Nellies (201 Water St., & Brown’s. It’s both an intimate St. John’s; & 709/738-1120): fine-dining room and a fun family Great food, big portions, and rea- restaurant—with the menu to sonable prices in pub surround- match. See chapter 6, p. 132. ings—that’s what you’ll find at • Norseman Restaurant & Gallery Nautical Nellies. It’s both small (Route 436, L’Anse aux Meadows and very popular, making it hard Harbour; & 877/623-2018): A to get a table. Sorry, they don’t meal here can be a much-appreci- accept reservations. See chapter 3, ated treat at the end of a long p. 61. road. The Norseman is one of the • Captain’s Table Restaurant better fine-dining restaurants in (Route 10 to Mobile; & 709/ the province, with a similarly stel- 334-2278; www.captainstable.nf. lar wine list. See chapter 7, p. 154. ca): This is the place to go if you’re • Deer Lake Irving Big Stop looking for the best fish and chips (TCH Route 1, Deer Lake; or pan-fried cod on the Avalon & 709/635-2129): This is by no THE BEST RESTAURANTS 21

means a fancy place, but if you’re • Anchor Pub & Dining Room looking for solid fare at reasonable (Ocean View Motel, Rocky Har- prices in the Deer Lake area, you bour; & 800/563-9887 or can’t beat Big Stop. Portions are 709/458-2730): When you have a ample and they offer traditional longing for lobster, they know Newfoundland favorites, making how to serve it up right. The pic- it a popular choice for local resi- turesque setting is a bonus. See dents. See chapter 7, p. 159. chapter 8, p. 172. • Thirteen West (13 West St., Cor- • Basque Dining Room (Northern ner Brook; & 709/634-1300): Light Inn, L’Anse au Clair; Nouvelle cuisine that would be & 800/563-3188 or 709/931- just as much at home in Montreal 2332): Excellent value for deli- as it is in Newfoundland’s smallest cious food, especially the seafood city. See chapter 7, p. 162. and traditional Labrador meals • Harbour Restaurant (Main (like caribou). See chapter 9, Road, Port aux Basques; & 709/ p. 191. 695-3238): You’re in Port aux • Whaler’s Restaurant (Red Bay, Basques, either just disembarking Labrador; & 709/920-2156): the ferry or preparing to leave. Want the best fish and chips in the Either way, you have an hour or province? Head over to the two before you begin the next leg Labrador Straits and try the of your journey. Where can you Chalupa fish and chips at find the sustenance to help you Whaler’s. They’re tasty, tangy, and continue on your way? The Har- value-priced. And the restaurant is bour Restaurant, with delicious located in historic Red Bay, where homestyle favorites as well as a you can finally find the answer to very good selection of pizza and the riddle, What is a Chalupa? See pub snacks, makes an excellent p. 192. choice. See chapter 7, p. 165.