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on location: south ❖ All Photos Courtesy of Greater Birmingham CVB Exhibits at the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute trace the history of local struggles for equal justice and address human rights issues worldwide. GETTING TO KNOW BIRMINGHAM Industrial heritage and a dominant chapter in civil rights history highlight itineraries in Alabama’s largest city By Dave Bodle t may surprise that Birmingham was not founded until 1871 Sloss Furnaces began manufacturing iron a year later. The during the post-Civil War Reconstruction period. Named company continued production for almost 90 years. Sloss and I for a major industrial city in England, Birmingham rapidly other Birmingham magnates competed with the industrial north grew as a railroad transportation center with a concentration on on the backs of cheap, non-unionized and African-American the iron and steel industry. The city’s rapid rise earned it the labor from rural Alabama. Through their hard work under de- nicknames “Magic City” and “Pittsburgh of the South.” manding circumstances these men rebuilt the Southern econ- In 1881 entrepreneur James Sloss capitalized on the abun- omy and led America into the Industrial Revolution. dance of limestone, coal and iron ore found in the area. The The Sloss Furnaces were designated a National Historical LeisureGroupTravel.com October 2013 35 on location: south ❖ Landmark in 1981. Both guided and self-guided tours A RELIGIOUS PILGRIMAGE provide a humbling experience when the size and scope of the facility are realized. It’s a good place to begin a IN ALABAMA Birmingham experience he Eternal Word A visit to Vulcan Park and Museum on Red Moun- Television Network tain, another good introduction to Birmingham, offers a T (EWTN) and Shrine of the panoramic view of the surrounding area. Sitting atop a Most Blessed Sacrament in 124-foot pedestal is the 56-foot-tall Vulcan, the Roman Central Alabama combine to offer an eye-opening pilgrimage god of the forge. Originally cast for the 1904 World’s Fair, for Catholics and a memorable Vulcan in 1939 found a permanent home in the park built tour for people of all faiths. during the Great Depression by the Works Progress Ad- With $200 Mother Mary ministration. Both indoor and outdoor exhibits share the Angelica founded EWTN in area’s history and the story of Vulcan. Birmingham. Now in its 30th year, the Global Catholic For a sense of the city’s history and culture, exploring Network reaches 150 million the 1963 events that changed both a country and the world households in 140 countries. is a must for any Birmingham itinerary. It was a pivotal year The EWTN grounds in Irondale (just outside of Birmingham) are also in the American civil rights movement and Birmingham home to the Franciscan Missionaries of the Eternal Word Friary. Friars lead informative tours of the technology behind the scenes of the was in the forefront. EWTN production facilities. On the surface, segregated Birmingham began 1963 Some of the church’s most outstanding theologians and scholars in a rather mundane manner. However, the embers that participate in live shows, AM & FM radio broadcasts and worldwide would spark the firestorm were in place. Alabama’s newly shortwave radio. EWTN’s chapel and the surrounding campus provide elected, segregationist governor, George Wallace, was opportunities for prayer and meditation. A daily schedule of Masses, talks, devotions and tours is offered daily for both individuals and giving his inauguration speech while at almost the same groups. time black leaders from throughout the South gathered to In 1999 Mother Angelica founded the Shrine of the Most Blessed plan how the segregationist ways of Birmingham could be Sacrament. The church is located in rural Hanceville, just an hour or stopped. so from Birmingham. The Shrine adjoins the monastery of Our Lady of the Angels, where Mother Angelica and her sisters live and keep a Veterans from the Montgomery Bus Boycott, Peters- constant prayer vigil. The beautiful Temple of Divino Nino (upper burg Improvement Association and Southern Christian church) and the lower church (with exhibits that include computer Leadership Conference joined local leader Rev. Fred Shut- images of the Shroud of Turin) are reminiscent of the great cathedrals tlesworth, who had been a victim of numerous attacks in of Europe. The piazza modeled after St. Peter’s in Rome can accom- his efforts to address racism. Dr. Martin Luther King and modate 30,000 faithful. Not to be overlooked are the near life-size Nativity, a reproduction Rev. Andrew Young lent their expertise to the planning. of the grotto at Lourdes and the Castle San Miguel housing the catered Over the course of 1963, they launched small-scale eating area and gift shop. Guided tours of the Shrine may be arranged, sit-ins, mass meetings in churches, boycotts of Birming- and bag lunches are permissible with advance notice. A daily schedule ham businesses, demonstrations and large marches. The of Masses and Confessions is available for pilgrims. Both the Shrine and EWTN request that you dress appropriately, intent was to cripple the opposition to integration through refraining from wearing shorts and sleeveless shirts. publicity, economic boycott and filling jails that were not (ewtn.com/pilgrimage/catholic-activities.asp, olamshrine.com) constructed to accommodate so many. Their efforts were met with violence and arrests. On Good Friday, April 12, 1963, King, Shuttlesworth and Dr. Ralph Abernathy were arrested for leading a march that began at St. Paul United Methodist Church. King’s famous “Letter from Birmingham Jail,” addressed to white clergy, was in response to their opinion that segregation should be pursued through the courts. King’s response vindicated civil defiance. Throughout spring and summer the community and its leaders continued on their path to end in- The Nativity: A must-see at the Shrine (top). justices. 36 AugustOctober 2013 2013 LeisureGroupTravel.com Obtain Alabama visitor guides and itineraries and contact group- friendly suppliers directly at leisuregrouptravel.com/instant-info It was September 1963 that proved to be pivotal. The effort Milestone Gallery and Human Rights Gallery have intriguing to integrate public schools was thwarted by Wallace, and Pres- stories to tell. Named for Birmingham’s first African-American ident Kennedy ordered the Alabama National Guard mobilized. mayor, the Richard Arrington, Jr. Resource Gallery contains a Bombings of the homes of prominent blacks added to host of historical information. the city’s reputation, but the monumental event was the Across the street from the Institute, Kelly Ingram Park bombing of the Sixteenth Street was ground zero in the battle for Baptist Church, Birmingham’s old- equality. This was the gathering est black church. Amidst the dev- point for peaceful protesters. They astation on that horrible day the were met by violence. Vicious at- lives of four young black girls, tack dogs, high-powered water can- ages 11-14, were lost. The 1963 nons, clubs, fists and jail awaited Birmingham tragedies and the the demonstrators. outrage they caused are credited Guided by an audio walking partly for the passage of the 1964 tour, park visitors are taken to nine Civil Rights Act. monuments recognizing the par- In downtown’s Civil Rights ticipants of the 1963 events. The District, the Birmingham Civil foot soldiers, the ministers and the Rights Institute tells both the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church was a hotbed of activity children’s crusade are each rec- during the fight for civil rights in Birmingham, Alabama. local community’s story and the ognized. A reflecting pool repre- history of the civil rights movement. The Barriers Gallery shows sents the peace earned, and memorials to leading Alabama the inequality of segregation through 1954. In the Confronta- African-Americans are prominent. Special recognition is tion Gallery visitors hear words spoken behind closed doors given to Fred Shuttlesworth and Martin Luther King. and wonder if that could have been their voice. The Movement Diagonally across the street from Kelly Ingram Park sits Gallery showcases events from 1954 through 1963. The the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, one of the most his- Statues in downtown Birmingham’s Kelly Ingram Park honor foot soldiers of the civil rights movement as well as leaders like Martin Luther King. LeisureGroupTravel.com October 2013 37 on location: south ❖ The Sloss Furnaces site, now a museum, recalls a gritty industrial past. torically significant sites in the nation. Serving Birmingham since 1873, the church is still a place of worship and a center of community life. In 1963 due to its prominence in the community and proximity to Birmingham’s downtown, the church served as headquarters for mass meetings. Visitors are welcome, and guides are always close to answer questions, but the preference of most visitors is to quietly reflect on the sig- nificance of the events. Do take time to watch the informative video and observe the large stained glass window in the bal- cony of the church front. The image of a black crucified Christ was a gift from the people of Wales. The nearby Fourth Avenue Business District offers a gathering of black and minority-owned businesses that service customers of all races. At the Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame, musician and only living member of the Hall, Frank “Doc” Adams, may just take you on a personal tour and play some of that clarinet reminiscent of his time with the Duke Ellington Orchestra. The Embassy Suites-Birmingham offers a “Birmingham Civil Rights” package. A portion of the room revenue is given back to the city for educational projects relating to civil rights history. With time left for shopping, a visit to The Outlet Shops of Grand River is a must. Located just minutes from Birming- ham, The Shops welcome groups.

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