The Tripper Report for September - December 2010 (updated 6/12/2013)

North American Rides Date Page The Berkshires September 2010 2 Cape Cod and the Islands September 2010 3 Lakes and Mountains September 2010 4 Southern Utah National Parks Tour September 2010 5 Fall 2010 Tour of Quebec September 2010 6 Southern Utah National Parks - Section 2 September 2010 7 Adirondacks Fall Foliage 2010 September 2010 8 Solvang: Sun, Pinot Noir and Tarantulas October 2010 9

Overseas Rides Date Page Tuscany on the Mediterranean 2010 September 2010 10 The Dordogne, Perigord and Gorges of France September 2010 11

Rides without Reports Date Montreal to Quebec City September 2010 Slovenia's Heart, Julian Alps &Adriatic Coast September 2010 Dordogne, Perigord and Gorges of France Section 2 September 2010 The Berkshires September 7th to September 20th Ride Director: Tom Leever, Report by: Phillip Coleman This trip began in Hartfort, Connecticut, moved northward into Vermont and curled back to the starting point. The route was picturesque New England countryside, with light traffic and good roads most of the time. At least 2 significant climbs were encountered virtually every ride day. Most days also had a shorter and less elevation ride option for less ambitious riders. Participants in this tour, however, need to be able to climb short but relatively steep hills. Prepare yourself and your bike gearing accordingly. Envision a series of Currier and Ives prints and you have a good image of the scenery every day. In short, spectacular, even with Fall Colors having just begun. Our accommodations were usually vintage Inns and B&B's, with a more modern hotel in the urban areas. Rooms were clean, quiet, and often quite spacious. Some of the sites were luxurious. Most accommodations provided special and secure storage for our bicycles and the proprietors were always hospitable. High detail maps and cue sheets were provided for each ride day. Were one to get lost using the cue sheet, the map would show a linking road to return to the route. A dedicated and competent sag driver made sure our luggage was awaiting us upon our arrival. Local drivers were courteous and obliging to touring cyclists on the frequent narrow roads. The ride leaders, Tom and Julie Lever, enjoy a sterling reputation for putting on good BAC tours. Leading four tours annually, the Levers are professionals in all aspects except compensation. Their first trip to the Berkshires never gave the appearance of being a first trip. They work especially well together, with each having personally defined roles in providing to the needs of the group. The Levers have coped with every tour contingency in the past, and they are unfazed with any problem that may arise. Social interaction within the group is emphasized. Nightly briefings and the social hour are festive and enjoyable. Tom and Julie make sure all riders have an opportunity to participate in the "play" as well as the "ride." Strategically designed layover days allowed tour participants the choice to ride a recommended optional ride, rest, or visit local historical sites, which abound in this region. One veteran bike tourist announced at the conclusion of the route, "This is the best bike tour I've ever been on." That pretty much says it all.

Participants: Becky Beagle, William Reichert, Ben Satterwhite, Grace Silverstein, Paul Silverstein, Julie Leever, David Hansen, John Leever, Stephen Petke, Tom Leever, Richard Spinetto, Janet Freeman, Gerald Hefele, Alexis Armao, Jon Armao, Jim Joyner, Julie Clark, Phillip Coleman, Suzanne Petke, Ernie McNeill, Sidney Whaley, Cornelia Garbee, Wes Garbee

Page 2 of 11 Cape Cod and the Islands September 10th to September 19th Ride Director: Ida Nystrom, Report by: Barbara Stiltner Cape Cod 2010 was a typical BAC trip including: great people, wonderful leadership, good food, fantastic accommodations, flexibility of rides, and excellent cue sheets and maps. Of course, we also enjoyed wonderful seafood during our entire trip and numerous picturesque lighthouses. We met in Hyannis and were quickly introduced to New England hospitality and quirks on our first circle ride. In congested areas, the signs read Thickly Settled 30 mph. General stores still sell penny candy (at slightly more than a penny). Houses have painted siding on the front and shake shingles on the sides and presumably the back as well. There were many lovely treed streets which were not "Thickly Settled" and wonderful for biking. We were constantly riding near lakes, rivers, oceans and bogs. A part of the ride also went through sections of a local triathlon. On a sunny day, we took the ferry to Martha's Vineyard where we stayed in Oak Bluffs. The hotel was located in the middle of wonderful historic gingerbread cottages. Rides on the Vineyard included historic Edgartown and Aquinnah cliffs. At Edgartown, we took the ferry to Chappaquiddick. The original bridge has been replaced by a presumably safer one. On Chappaquiddick there was also the opportunity to ride a good gravel road to the Mytoi gardens which had a distinctly Japanese flair and were beautiful even in mid September. The ride to Aquinnah and Gay Head Cliffs was across the island and much of it was on a well developed bike trail. A highlight of the day was the general store and the erotic sculpture garden in West Tisbury. After two nights in Martha's Vineyard, the ferry took us back to Hyannis and then on to the old whaling village of Nantucket on Nantucket Island. The leaders arranged for all of us to participate in a nature ride to Great Point Lighthouse in the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge. Our guides were very informative about the local wildlife and ecology. The Whaling Museum covered all aspects of the whaling culture in an engaging fashion. On the tip of the island at Madaket, we saw a house which had succumbed to the ocean and was being torn down. The erosion of beaches is a continual process in the Cape Cod region due to wind and water. Another destination was Siasconset, a quaint beach town. The final two days of the trip we rode from Hyannis to Provincetown with stops for the National Seashore and many wonderful beach views. Much of the riding was on the Cape Cod Rails to Trails path. Provincetown offered trails in the National Seashore and exploration of the town. Commercial Street with its quirky shops and heavy pedestrian traffic is truly unique. Nightly happy hours coordinated by Susan Hardy and the Nystroms helped us to develop a congenial atmosphere within the group. A special thanks to Jim for hauling the happy hour materials to the islands with his burley.

Participants: Jim Nystrom, Frank Lamitola, Vickie Smith, Susan Hardy, Sue Ann Erb, Ida Nystrom, Gat Lum, Gerald Lum, Beth Caldwell, John Caldwell, Barbara Klaus, Dorothy Stock, Bill Deverell, Marne Deverell, Doug Gant, Colleen Gant, Steven Crockett, Margaret Crockett, Susie Stogsdill, Stogs Stogsdill, Bob Mueller, Ellen Mueller, Barbara Stiltner, Suzie Shao, Alexandria Di Nome, Barbara Moothart, Carol Svendsen, Jay Mead, Sandra Franzen, Richard Moothart

Page 3 of 11 New Hampshire Lakes and Mountains September 10th to September 17th Ride Director: Douglas McLane, Report by: Rita Jensen "Two roads diverged in a wood, and I-- I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference" Fourteen BAC members gathered at the home of Doug and Sue McLane to begin a one-week exploration of the mountains and lakes of New Hampshire. These words by Robert Frost, read at the opening of the evening, were definitely the theme for the week. The format of the ride was semi-fixed base so the participants could do as much exploring as desired. The routes (with excellent maps and cue sheets) developed by Doug and Sue took us up and down the many hills of New Hampshire, through classic New England villages, along lakes and ponds, through covered bridges, touching on the Appalachian Trail now and then. The first two nights were spent at the Common Man Inn in Plymouth. This former mill beside the Pemigewasset River was been lovingly renovated as a small inn. The first full day of riding was a circumnavigation of . The next day we headed out to North Woodstock for three nights at a bed and breakfast. This location in the White Mountains provided loop rides of Waterville, , Sugar Hill. Departing from North Woodstock, we enjoyed a wonderful ride on the Kancamagus Highway that takes one through the heart of White Mountains. The final two nights were spent at a lodge at Rockywold DeepHaven Camp on . What an amazing place! An added bonus is that the camp in managed by a participant in the 2007 Race Across American (RAAM). We were treated to a slide show and talk of this grueling ride. The mileage on this ride was not particularly long, but in the range of 45-50 miles. However, the hills of the area definitely gave us all a workout. These are not western-US style grades! The routes follow paved as well as some dirt roads though the dirt road sections were not long, and were very well packed. There was absolutely no vehicular traffic on these dirt roads. Because we were getting such a great workout, I have to mention all the great meals we had. Doug and Sue prepared an excellent opening dinner, with many vegetables for their enormous garden. Yum! The breakfasts at the Woodstock Inn provided us with more than enough nourishment each day. The ultimate though was the amazing buffets at Rockywold. These were worth the price of admission alone! In summary, Doug and Sue just introduced us to the possibilities of touring in New Hampshire. This trip just whetted our appetites for experiencing more that New Hampshire has to offer. We can't wait to go back.

Participants: Norman Happ, Barbara Happ, Susan McLane, Douglas McLane, Rita Jensen, Gary Dodson, Ann Hiltz, Fred Hiltz, Martha Wright, Elizabeth Buckingham, John Stephenson, Steve Bennett, Virginia Champion, James Bonner

Page 4 of 11 Southern Utah National Parks Tour September 11th to September 18th Ride Director: Lucy Ormond, Report by: Lucy Ormond Lucy (""made of tough stuff") Ormond and Gloria ("no tacky happy hours for this gang") Leonard led us on a wonderful trip through their red rock back yard. We started in St. George with a delicious Thai dinner, where we got acquainted and re-acquainted with old BAC friends. Our first day's ride was a hot one, ending in Springdale, at the entrance to Zion National Park. Day two was a rest day, during which Lucy led an intrepid group through the "Narrows"—hiking in the Virgin River between red rock walls. The rest of us, who did wimpy little hikes (by comparison) were wondering where the river hikers ended up, as we started happy hour without them. They soon arrived, wet, hot and happy. Throughout the trip, we were pampered by Gloria's expert happy hours, with all diverse tastes satisfied.

Our next day's ride was into Glendale UT, where there's not much besides a historic, comfy B&B. We were treated to the owners' hospitality and their collection of Navajo rugs, as well as a custom BBQ at the Buffalo Bistro next door. From there, we biked to Bryce Canyon National Park. As we approached, we rode on a long, smooth bike path, which ended at a pie restaurant--the perfect outcome for a long day's ride! The otherworldly hoodoos became larger and more bizarre and beautiful as we got closer to the park entrance. There was a controlled burn going on in the park, but it was no problem as we hiked and biked throughout the park the next day. Some of us encountered a Japanese youth choir among the hoodoos. We don't know what they were singing, but it must have been in praise of the beauty surrounding them. That day we continued on to Panguitch, a small town with friendly folks. Lucy shared with us the story of the quilt-walkers, one of whom was her ancestor. They were Mormon settlers who had used quilts as snowshoes to walk across the snow to get enough food to save their families. The next day's ride was a tough one, topping out at over 10,000 feet, with this writer accepting a SAG ride near the top of a 4000-foot climb at 9,000 feet elevation when breathing was no longer an option. The group went through Cedar Breaks National Monument, another of Utah's treasures. After a long descent, we arrived in Cedar City for our last overnight and final group dinner. On the final day, we rode mostly downhill to St. George, where Lucy was waiting to say farewell, and Wilson and Sue Cooper were preparing to greet the riders for the next section of the ride. All told, we rode about 260 beautiful, hot miles with thousands of feet of elevation gain. Not an easy ride, but well worth the effort. Many thanks to Lucy and Gloria for doing a fabulous job, and creating a BAC trip that will doubtless be repeated many times in the future.

Participants: Steve Lepper, Lucy Ormond, Lexanne Creitz, Ruth Maule, Nancy Follett, Darrell Follett, Clarice Sackett, Antoinette Cordell, Phil Howrey, Sharon Foster Howrey, Lois DuBois, Sue Orcutt, Glenn Orcutt, Wilson Cooper, Sue Cooper, Gloria Leonard

Page 5 of 11 Fall 2010 Tour of Quebec September 18th to October 2nd Ride Director: Judy McCarroll, Report by: Kathleen Learned

The trip started and ended in Levis, across the St. Lawrence River from Quebec City, providing an opportunity for early arrivals to take a great guided bike tour of charming Quebec City, from a dock-side produce market to an important battle field turned park and the interesting architecture of the old town in between. The two week trip went east along the south side of the St. Lawrence, then crossed the St Lawrence by ferry to cycle up the north side of the Saguenay fjord / river to the town of Saguenay, and then along the south side of the Saguenay river west to Lac St Jean, then back southeast to the St Lawrence, returning to Quebec City. It was a splendid itinerary of farmland, wild forests, quaint towns and water, water everywhere. Hills clothed in the last greens of summer gave way by trips end to a riot of gold, yellows and red as fall colors peaked. This shoulder season trip also dished up a variety of weather experiences from sunny and warm to blustery winds (not always at our backs!) and pouring rain on the last day. The south and north sides of the river were quite different, the south relatively flat with much farmland, the north marked by steeply rolling hills, rock cliffs plunging to the fjord and extensive forests. Homes and barns carried bright red, green or blue metal roofs, a cheerful sight in the fall and which must be even more welcome spots of color in winter. Numerous small towns along the way each had their central church sporting shiny "silver" (tin) roofs and steeples. From the smallest parish chapel to the grand Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre with its exquisite mosaics and awesome basilica, the influence of the church in Quebec was obvious. And everywhere is water. The St. Lawrence is impressively wide and dumping into it are countless streams and rivers. The well eroded bedrock on the north side of the river is also full of depressions holding large and small lakes with one or more delightful looking summer homes. Occasionally we cycled under or near enormous power lines from projects further north of us. At times we also had to share the road with the trucks carrying aluminum ingots to the south. But for the most part the roads were quiet, with good shoulders and when we were on busier roads most drivers gave us ample room. As with any trip there were "moments" of too much traffic, or a rude driver, but there were no actual problems. The Quebecers were very friendly and helpful. Although they almost all spoke French, they knew enough English to help us and didn't mind doing so. We felt welcomed everywhere, especially rolling into the little towns at the edge of the waterways, each with their own particular charm and attraction. There was the largest woodcarving museum in North America, a natural history museum with an enormous collection of tree burls, various cheese factories, upscale art galleries and local handicraft shops. Accommodations ranged from "house-turned-inns" to large 3- and 4-star motel/hotels. Food was plentiful and excellent, especially at the smaller establishments. At one place, hot buttered rum after a cold ride cheered a few folks up, followed later by another tasty evening meal. Thanks go to the leader for thoughtfully selecting hotels with good food! We had good sleeping, good eating and good cycling in the company of good new and old friends.

Participants: Michelle Dega, Mark Hodges, Ralph McCarroll, Frank Dega, Drex Maggio, Philip Arcadipane, Karen Adelfang, Judith Costlow, Marjorie Kirk, Judy McCarroll, Lewis Wexler, Joan Ratner, Tom Weir, Kristi Weir, Beverlee French, Jean Behse, Bill Thomson, Gerald Anderson, Kathleen Learned, Robert Dickinson, Jeanne Bush, Jan Bush

Page 6 of 11 Southern Utah National Parks - Section 2 September 18th to September 25th Ride Director: Wilson Cooper, Report by: Stacie Barker "Magnificent," "spectacular," and "amazing were exclamations often heard on this seven-day bike tour of Southern Utah, which featured visits to Zion and Bryce National Parks and Cedar Breaks National Monument. Highlights of the trip included great rides with incredible mountain vistas, canyon forays, local cuisine, and a close-up view of the local people, geography, and culture. Our leaders, Wilson and Sue Cooper, did a superb job of handling every detail, working tirelessly to ensure that our group of 14 had a fantastic time. Their exceptional skills in leading, organizing, and communicating added immeasurably to the trip, along with their wonderful sense of humor and easygoing demeanor. Expecting hot temperatures during the trip, we departed from St. George early, seeing impressive mountains and tall red rock formations that proved to be just a warm-up for the incredible sights to come at our first stop in Springdale, near Zion National Park. Just a short shuttle ride from the park, our hotel was surrounded by towering red rock mountains with sheer cliff faces of unbelievable beauty. On our layover day, we were able to check out the spectacular views of Zion Canyon and the Virgin River below by hiking along some of the trails throughout the park. Due to unexpected road construction, we were shuttled over part of the next day's route heading from Springdale to Glendale. Steep grades and numerous switchbacks provided some of the most stunning scenery of the trip, with views of high peaks above and glimpses of the serpentine road below as it zig-zagged its way up the mountain and through the canyon. Our accommodations at an historic B&B in Glendale boasted homemade jams and jellies, a front porch shaded with creeping vines and beautiful flowers, and a gregarious host and hostess who were exceptionally accommodating. Our group dinner at a nearby restaurant featured eclectic dishes such as wild boar and bison, with the owner and chef delivering the dishes to our table, along with a constant stream of humorous banter. Upon arriving the next day at Bryce Canyon City, many of us opted to take the free shuttle to the Visitor Center, where we viewed an excellent 20-minute video about the park, and took a short walk to peer over the edge of the rim into the canyon. Although there was no layover day in Bryce, our leaders enabled us to see the park the following day by delaying the departure of the van by a few hours. Bryce Canyon was a surreal and awe-inspiring amphitheater of stone spires (called "hoodoos") and deep, slotted canyon walls. Walking some of the trails, we traversed parts of the canyon rim and descended into the slotted canyons, peering up at the red walls towering above us, and snapping pictures of what looked like huge castles topped with hundreds of decorative towers and spires. In the days that remained, we had a mix of wonderful downhill days and one long, challenging ride to Cedar City with over 30 miles of climbing, but the bright yellow aspens, scenic views, and a stop at Cedar Breaks National Monument were well worth the effort. Cedar Breaks seemed like a smaller version of Bryce, with hoodoos and deep gorges that were carved into the rock over time by rushing torrents. In summary, this tour of Southern Utah's National Parks was exceptionally well organized and led, and provided spectacular riding and scenery, an opportunity for us to experience the culture, music, geography, and food of the region, and much, much more. We highly recommend this trip to anyone who wants to enjoy challenging riding and an introduction to Utah's Southern National Parks.

Participants: Don Coffin, Donald Gettemy, Gracia Coffin, Sue Cooper, Wilson Cooper, Susan Barlocher, Stacie Barker, Alan Bourgault, Wes Johnson, Arleen Sakamoto, Ken Karda, Lance James, Janet James, Carol Bozena, Anne Smith, Bob Smith

Page 7 of 11 Adirondacks Fall Foliage 2010 September 25th to October 5th Ride Director: Julie Leever, Report by: Larry Shingleton This ride was my first with BAC and I was not quite sure what to expect. I found the ride to be extremely well run. The other participants were quite friendly and there was a good feeling of comradery. I thought that the ride leaders created a good atmosphere for social interaction. Since this was my first trip with BAC and I did not know another person in the club, I appreciated the ride leaders helping to pair up singles. From ride descriptions, many leaders do not. The daily rides were uniformly excellent. The maps and cue sheets were extensive and well done. Some days were more difficult than others but from the maps and cue sheets, as well as briefings the night before, we always had a good idea of what to expect. There were even arrangements made for people to bypass or shuttle around some of the more difficult climbs. The ride leaders also handled shuttles for the several days of hard rain. The scenery in Vermont and New York was spectacular, fall colors were near peak. The roads in New York were good and there was generally an adequate bike lane. I was surprised that there were few bike lanes in Vermont after we left Burlington. The only rude drivers that I saw were in Vermont. The rating for the ride was about what I expected from descriptions given. On the longer rides, there were alternative shorter rides. I really liked the opportunity to do side trips like Fort Ticonderoga and Ausable Chasm and the ferry rides across Lake Champlain. The accommodations and food available ranged from OK to sensational. The inns at Friends Lake and Westport as well as the hotel in Lake Placid were noteworthy. Friends Lake Inn was amazing for scenery, rooms, and food. I realize that some of the lodging choices that were just OK were done for logistical reasons. Since the tourist season was over at some of the places we stayed, the ride leaders went to great lengths to provide meals for the group. In summary, I thought that the ride was great fun and very well run. The ride leaders did a good job of planning and carrying out the ride. They did well with making some decisions "on the fly" about rainy days, etc. The cost of the ride was very reasonable and we even got a refund! I'm looking forward to my next opportunity to do a BAC ride.

Participants: Tom Leever, Kathy Emmons, John Leever, Cathy Cloutier, Julie Leever, David Wright, Susanne Wright, John S Freitag, John Peters, Patricia Greene, Chris Witt, John Borden, Carolyn Borden, Chip Sterling, Kathy Sterling, Ruth Maule, Darrell Athay, Felix Braendel, Nancy Hurtado, Hugh Carrington, Donna Carrington, Patti Sundermann, Steve Sundermann, Alberta Peters, Larry Shingleton

Page 8 of 11 Solvang: Sun, Pinot Noir and Tarantulas October 17th to October 23rd Ride Director: Kathe Fowler, Report by: Alyson Hockett I'm typing at the dining room table, looking out at the traces of snow in the yard. The bikes are hung up for the season and I am wondering why we didn't stock up on more of Fess Parker Winery's Pinot Noir while on the Solvang: Sun, Pinot Noir and Tarantulas BAC trip. We began our bike trip in mid-October, with bikers from Washington, Colorado, Wyoming, and on board. Solvang, CA is a darling Danish town nestled in the beautiful Santa Ynez wine country. It has an old European village atmosphere with many unique shops to explore. Our ride leaders, Greg & Kathe Fowler, led us on five days of great cycling – providing us with maps and cue sheets that allowed each cyclist to tailor their ride as to degree of difficulty and distance. Some days you feel like pushing it; some days you don't. Greg & Kathe are very familiar with the area and went above and beyond providing us with excellent suggestions for places to explore, where to stop for lunch, wineries to visit, where the best bakeries were located (my downfall), locations of bike shops, where to stop to get a great view of the area, and how to spot the tarantulas meandering down the road. They also kept us posted on bike route alterations when unexpected road construction came into play. Our accommodations at Hotel Corque were very comfortable, and having a pool and hot tub to soak in certainly topped off the day after a long bike ride. Access to a fitness facility — where you could stretch tired muscles — was also provided. The highlight of the trip for us, aside from meeting so many fun and interesting people in our group, was the option to climb up Figueroa Mountain. The climb up "the Fig" was challenging and fun. The cue sheet for this ride was spot on. Greg went out of his way to provide a water station part way up the steep climb and there was no sight more beautiful than seeing him parked at the top of the mountain with sandwiches and chips for all. I also have to give kudos to the tarantulas meandering down the road. It's not something we see in our everyday life. Quite the experience. What can I say? Great rides, great people, great tarantulas, and great fun! Thank you Greg and Kathe for all of your hard work and planning.

Participants: Terry Karro, James Haberzetle, Lynn Davis-Smith, Alyson Hockett, Don Volta, Jane Volta, Arlene Deardorff, Greg Fowler, Kathe Fowler, Brad Crouch, Mary Gray Haberzetle, Gary Dodson, Rita Jensen, Steven Smith, Hank Hermes, Carol Hermes, Phil Howrey, Sharon Foster Howrey, Evan Deardorff, Pam Duckworth, Steve Kelton, Karla Segale, Dean Coe, Sheila Coe

Page 9 of 11 Tuscany on the Mediterranean 2010 September 11th to September 21st Ride Director: Syd Smoot, Report by: Jacqueline Lawson We arrived at the Pisa airport, laden with bikes, luggage and loads of expectations for our 10 days in Tuscany. Our ride leaders, Syd and Tommy had arranged every detail: advanced bike rental through Encorent, airport shuttle, detailed maps, cue sheets, and best of all, our home base for the ride. The Hotel I Ginepri is situated directly on a gorgeous, sandy Mediterranean beach. The shady gardens, pool, and terraces became the location-of-choice for the nightly HH (happy hour) gatherings. All breakfast and dinners were included in our 10-day stay and were served at the hotel. Cuisine and service were topnotch. With temps in the 70s, we biked out beneath a canopy of umbrella pines to drink in the Tuscan countryside. Farm crops appeared to have been arranged by a master quiltsmith: neat vertical rows of artichokes intersecting with horizontal paths of basil, and diagonal paths of olive trees. Tuscan roads and farms were bordered with sturdy trellises hung heavy with grapes waiting to be pressed into wines. Sunflowers and tomatoes basked in the late summer sun. Day after beautiful sunny day, we climbed to charming towns with names full of vowels: Campiglia, Castagneto Carducci, Sassette, Sasella, and Suvereto. Our rides were sweetened by restaurants full of freshly made pasta, panninis, bruschettas, and the quintessential Italian specialty: cappuccino. Need I mention the gelato? The neighboring town of Donoratico met our practical needs for ATM, co-op, and a 5 star bike shop. Ciclo Sport provided our ride jerseys, great mechanics, socks and tubes, tubes, tubes. The Senora in charge feted us with good humor and warm Tuscan hospitality. Inspite of the fact that most people in the small Tuscan towns spoke little English, and most of us spoke even less Italian, we felt welcomed and able to communicate with lots of smiles and gestures. An ancient fountain sits outside the entry of Monteverdi. Like many towns in the region, it sits atop a hill affording a view in every direction. We rode through Tuscan towns graced with castles, arches, flag- and cobbled-stoned streets. Tiny shops tempted us with ceramics, linens, leather bags and belts, fine wines and more. A coastal ride beyond the town of San Vincenzo was a great opportunity to see more of the Mediterranean beauty, as well as an archeological dig. Another unexpected highlight of our Tuscan ride was a trip to Petra Winery. All agreed that the exceptional tour through this high tech winery was a worthwhile addition to our trip. The Tuscan ride lived up to its promise of plenty of hill climbing; however, there were also the exhilarating rides back down to the Mediterranean Sea. Our layover day offered a plethora of options from trains to Cinque Terra, Lucca, Volterra, or Pisa, and side trips by bike. Some decided it was the perfect day to shop at the nearby Donoratico market, or to spend the day on the beach. The day was topped off with a wonderful concert under the Tuscan moon. The acoustic guitar artist, Beppe Gambetto, captivated us with his sweet picking, and songs of his Nonni (grandmother). Tuscan hospitality, beautiful countryside, and great leadership made this a very special BAC ride.

Participants: Thomas Glendinning, Syd Smoot, Birgit Stefani, Mike Miller, Charlie Kalb, Jacqueline Lawson, Ronald Guidotti, James Kervick, Vicki Labella, Warren Davis, Sandy Elmendorf, Richard Elmendorf, Felix Smith, Marty Uhlmann, Jim Boucher, Jeff Roberts, Lan Roberts, Sally Mc Kinney, Roberto Lara, Humberto Olivo, Jim Lieske, Sheila Lieske, Bernice Miller, Ann Klosterman, Catharine Ratiner, Jackie Helleis, Judith King, Janet Monks, Mike De Tracey, Jackie Kost, Pamela Ouellette, Bill Kiess, Bill Manera, Debbie Anderson, Ray Cosyn, Paula Cappello, James Hubbard, Lisa Dubinsky, Gary Johnson, Donald Heckman, Jeanne Golding, John Della Torre, Laree Morris, Lee Derror, Regina Renfro, Mary Jane Hubbard

Page 10 of 11 The Dordogne, Perigord and Gorges of France September 24th to October 8th Ride Director: Lucy Glover, Report by: Greg Compestine "How was the ride?" asks a friend. To begin: you meet fellow riders for the first time in a quiet corner of the hotel. Most people are a little jet-lagged, but there's a quiet excitement in the air. They are fine folks from all over, offering tentative "bon-jars" or "bon-swears", and a few are having a glass of red wine. We hear about the places we will be visiting,St. Emilion, Bergerac, and Brantome. We ride. Through large cities and towns so small that if you blink twice (you're on a bike after all) you'll miss it. Through beautiful valleys, past farms and vineyards. We missed a turn! Never mind, off-route is an excuse to try out that bistro on the corner. The natives are friendly. Going against stereotype, the French we meet are often very pleasant. Perhaps it's the bikes with the little wheels, or the big smiles we all wear. After a few days, everyone's French s improving. Over a glass of vin rouge, we talk about the day and hear about days to come. Condat and Lascaoux! Oooh -- cave paintings. Les Eyzies, and Sarlat. Tired of all those vineyards? The high plateau on the way to Gramat looks like it was plucked out of the American southwest. Tired of sunny weather? A little rain takes off that edge. Just watch out for the hill at Conques! After that, the rest of the trip is beautiful weather, and every day looks even better after a hot shower, some great conversation, and a bit more vin rouge. Would I go again? How could I not? After all, as one of my fellow riders put it: "The goal of life is not to end up with a well preserved pretty body. The goal is to cross the finish line used up, burned out, skidding sideways and exclaiming 'Wow! What a ride!'"

Participants: Gilbert Jean, Ann Moe, Tim Moe, Robert Barday, Randy Glover, Lucy Glover, Jerry Fuxa, Jean Waid, Greg Compestine, Judith Barday, Roger Paluska, Sue Paluska, Hewes Agnew, Susan Agnew, Natalie Hedberg, Thomas Van Zandt, Royal Price, Norma Foster Price, Fred Glover, Ted Glesmann, Jeanette Glesmann, Paul Grmoljez, Alice Gordon, Ravi Gulati, Lyn Rawlinson, Leslee Miller

Page 11 of 11