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New York Wines Verslag Van De NGS-Proeverij Van Wijnen Uit De Amerikaanse Staat New York, Gehouden Op 2 December 2019 in Café Zoldering Te Amsterdam

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New York Wines Verslag Van De NGS-Proeverij Van Wijnen Uit De Amerikaanse Staat New York, Gehouden Op 2 December 2019 in Café Zoldering Te Amsterdam New York Wines Verslag van de NGS-proeverij van wijnen uit de Amerikaanse staat New York, gehouden op 2 december 2019 in Café Zoldering te Amsterdam. Door Paul Op ten Berg Deze proeverij werd georganiseerd en gepresenteerd door Christian Claessens van New York Wines. Christian Claessens New York Wines SaRL Drie Finger Lakes wijnproducenten, Scott Osborn van Fox Run Vineyards, John Martini van Anthony Road Wine Company en Chris Missick of Villa Bellangelo, hebben met hun Europese partner Christian Claessens het Europese agentschap New York Wines SaRL opgericht. Het bedrijf verzorgt vanuit Luxembourg de import en promotie in Europa. De distributie van hun wijnen naar 12 landen van de Europese markt vindt plaats vanuit een depot in de omgeving van Brussel. Fox Run exporteert zelf al naar vijf landen, van de UK tot de Filippijnen, en Anthony Road naar in Japan en Singapore. Voor Villa Bellangelo is dit de eerste export buiten de USA. Fox Run Vineyards, Anthony Road Wine Company en Villa Bellangelo liggen alle drie op de oevers van Seneca Lake. Het zijn familiebedrijven met een kleine productie van ambachtelijk geproduceerde wijnen. Wijnstreken & terroirs • 10.000 jaar geleden vormden gletsjers in Canada gedurende de laatste ijstijd het landschap van de huidige staat New York, dat nu ideaal blijkt voor wijnbouw. Gletsjers bestaan immer niet alleen uit ijsmassa's, maar daaronder bevinden zich tunnels met rivieren van smeltwater, die rotsblokken en verweerd bodemmateriaal afvoeren. • New York State heeft een grote diversiteit aan bodemsoorten. • Aan de oostkust van de Verenigde Staten troffen immigranten uit Nederland, Frankrijk en Engeland een veelheid aan autochtone druivenrassen aan. Ze plantten vervolgens Vinifera vines wijnstokken op Manhattan Island, Hudson Valley, Virginia en North Carolina. Deze verdwenen echter na een paar jaar door de phylloxera. Vanaf de 18e eeuw werden dan ook alleen maar autochtone rassen en Amerikaanse of Amerikaans-Franse kruisingen aangeplant. Na de 2e Wereldoorlog werden Vitis Vinifera rassen uit Europa op succesvolle wijze op resistente Amerikaanse onderstokken geënt. Momenteel bestaat 60 tot 70% van de wijnproductie uit wijnen van Vinifera stokken. • 180 jaar geleden werd in die vallei een wijnbedrijf gevestigd, gevolgd door andere meer westelijk in een gebied met spectaculaire meren. • De afwezigheid van de warme golfstroom wordt gecompenseerd door de nabijheid van de Atlantische Oceaan en de vele meren en rivieren, die voor een gematigd koel klimaat zorgen. • 's Winters kan het 18 tot 19 graden vriezen, maar de gletsjermeren zijn zo diep dat er geen ijs op komt. Tot mei is het koud, waardoor de wijnstokken pas laat uitbotten. 's Zomers is het nooit te warm. • De jaarlijkse neerslag bedraagt 760 tot 1.270 mm per jaar. Irrigatie is dan ook niet nodig. Enkele cijfers • Het 3e wijngebied van de USA qua oppervlakte wijngaarden en productie. • De wijngaarden strekken zich uit over 800 km. • 1.631 wijnboeren. • Ruim 400 wineries. • 15.000 ha wijngaarden. • Productie gemiddeld 175 miljoen flessen wijn per jaar. De wijngaarden van New York liggen op de 41ste tot 43ste breedtegraad, vergelijkbaar met midden tot noord Spanje en Portugal. Kaart met degree-days (dagen met temperatuur boven 10°C). Ter vergelijking in Europa: Champagne 1.760, Bourgogne 2.84, Bordeaux 2.464 en Bolzano 2.985. Druivenrassen Van origine staan in Amerika veel wilde druivenrassen van de soorten Vitis labrusca, Vitis berlandieri en Vitis riparia. De druiven hebben een zeer hoge zuurgraad. De diversiteit van het landschap weerspiegelt de diversiteit van de wijnen. Van fruitige, aromatische autochtone Amerikaanse druivenrassen tot klassieke Europese variëteiten en Frans- Amerikaanse blends met het beste van oude en nieuwe wereld. In New York State worden wijnen geproduceerd van ruim 35 druivenrassen. • Vitis Vinifera rassen, o.a. riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, gewürztraminer, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, pinot noir, lemberger (blaufränkisch) en syrah. • Autochtone Amerikaanse rassen, o.a. concord (Vitis labrusca) en catawba (Vitis labrusca), resistent tegen phylloxera. • Amerikaanse hybride rassen, o.a. diamond, la crescent, delaware, niagara, elvira, ives, frontenac, marquette en isabella. • Franse hybride rassen, o.a. aurore, baco noir, de chaunac, seyval blanc, cayuga, vidal en vignoles. • Door Cornell University ontwikkelde rassen, o.a. cayuga white, traminette, valvin muscat en noiret. De Vitis labrusca rassen hebben een aandeel van 65% in het totaal en de Vitis Vinifera rassen 35%. Er vindt echter de laatste jaren steeds meer een verschuiving plaats van Amerikaanse en hybride rassen naar Vitis Vinifera. Simpelweg omdat de prijzen die voor Vinifera druiven worden betaald, veel hoger zijn dan die van de Amerikaanse en hybride rassen. 'Foxy' aroma van Amerikaanse wijn Christian vertelde dat de term Foxy voor het typische aroma van Amerikaanse wijnen op een misverstand berust. In het Frans wordt dit renardé genoemd. Foxy komt echter van een Indiaans druivenras waarvan de wijn in het Engels Wine of the Fox genoemd wordt. American Viticultural Areas (AVA's) van New York 75% van de druiven moet van de vermelde AVA zijn. • Long Island – 827 ha wijngaarden, 66 wijnbedrijven • North Fork of Long Island – 1.200 ha wijngaarden, 50 wijnbedrijven • The Hamptons, Long Island - 4 wijnbedrijven • Hudson River Region – 95 ha wijngaarden, 55.000 ha wijngaarden, 49 wijnbedrijven Subzones: Hudson River East en Hudson River West • Champlain Valley of New York – 40 ha wijngaarden, 6 wijnbedrijven • Finger Lakes – 3.000 ha wijngaarden, 119 wijnbedrijven Subzones: Keuka Lake en Canandaigua Lake • Seneca Lake – onderdeel van Finger Lakes AVA, 1.497 ha wijngaarden, 71 wijnbedrijven • Cayuga Lake – onderdeel van Finger Lakes AVA, 186 ha wijngaarden, 20 wijnbedrijven • Niagara Escarpment – 358 ha wijngaarden, 17 wijnbedrijven Subzones: Niagara Escarpment en Greater Niagara Area • Lake Erie – gedeeld met de staten Ohio en Pennsylvania, 7.567 ha wijngaarden, 17 wijnbedrijven • Upper Hudson – 32 ha wijngaarden, 7 zeer kleine wijnbedrijven Binnen deze appellaties bestaan talloze microklimaten. De wijnhaarden liggen meest op hellingen aan meren en rivieren. Long Island grenst als enige aan de Atlantische Oceaan. Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake en Cayuga Lake Behorend tot de bekendste gebieden, op 5 uur rijden van de stad New York. Bekend om Riesling, van droog tot zoet. Maar ook wijnen van o.a. chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir en cabernet franc. Long Island, Northfork of Long Island en The Hamptons Bekend om cabernet franc, merlot en sauvignon blanc. De meeste wijnen worden – sinds 1973 - geproduceerd in het meest oostelijke deel van het eiland. De wijngaarden liggen op maximaal 15 km van de zee. Ook syrah, blaufränkisch, friulano en refosco. Enkele mousserende wijnen. Niagara Escarpment en Lake Erie Deze gebieden liggen in het uiterste noordwesten van New York State. Bekend om riesling, ijswijn en Frans-Amerikaanse hybriden. De wijngaarden van Lake Erie zijn voor 95% beplant met concord, waarvan druivensap wordt gemaakt. Tafelwijn wordt ook geproduceerd, van riesling en van hybriden (kruisingen tussen Vinifera en labrusca) als noiret, chambourcin en seyval blanc. Niagara Escarpment heeft een vrij recente wijnproductie. Voorbeeld is hier de zeer succesvolle Canadese productie van Ontario, aan de overkant van het meer. De winter is hier zeer streng en ijswijn wordt elk jaar met succes geproduceerd. Maar er komt ook tafelwijn vandaan. Hudson River Bekend om de Hudson Valley Heritage White, van voornamelijk seyval blanc, en Heritage Red, van voornamelijk noiret en de chaunac. Deze grote streek ligt direct ten noorden van de stad New York en is nog maar voor een klein deel met wijnstokken beplant. Vooral Franse hybriden. Proeverij De wijnen uit New York State worden in Nederland niet geïmporteerd. Ze zijn echter leverbaar vanuit een depot bij Brussel. Vanwege transportkosten, btw en accijns is het minimum voor een bestelling 120 flessen gesorteerd, met korting voor grotere hoeveelheden. In bijlage een prijsoverzicht. De onderstaande prijzen all-in prijzen per fles, bij 120 flessen. Bestellingen via [email protected] . *** Thirsty Owl 'Diamond' 2017, AVA Finger Lakes 100% diamond, een lokaal wit druivenras. Van druiven uit eigen wijngaarden en van diverse Seneca Lake wijngaarden met langlopende contracten. Langzaam vergist bij lage temperatuur. Alc. 11,8%, zuren 8,2 g/l, restsuiker 55 g/l. € 7,40. K bleek tot gemiddeld geconcentreerd groengeel G aangenaam fruitig en zuiver, ananas, mango S halfzoet, druiven, impressie van kauwgom, amandelen, pijnboompitten en bergamot A prima lengte, eindigt zoet T aparte wijn met interessante aroma's A goede balans met de zuren *** Fox Run 'Fox Trot Red' 2017, AVA Finger Lakes Rode blend van 55% concord (lokaal ras) en 45% lemberger (blaufränkisch). Bij zonsopgang machinaal geoogst, direct gekeusd en in open tanks vergist met geselecteerde gisten tot volledige omzetting van de suikers. De lemberger werd opgevoed in vaten van Frans en Amerikaans eiken en daarna geblend met droge wijn van concord druiven. Daarna werd suiker toegevoegd om de gewenste zoetheid te bereiken. Alc. 11%, zuren 6,1 g/l, restsuiker 55 g/l. Productie 9.960 flessen. € 8,00. K gemiddeld geconcentreerd robijnrood G eigenzinnig, iets animaal, veel fruit van bessen, pruimen en aardbeien, jasmijn S zacht, rond, overvloedig fruit, halfdroog/zoet, een beetje tannines, goede balans A gemiddelde lengte T fris fruit op de voorgrond
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