I Like to Pull a Little Bit of Humanity Into Each

ISSUE Nº. 001 INDEPENDENT. SPIRITED. STORYTELLERS. BASEL LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION THURSDAY, 27th MARCH 2014 THE FEMALE Why do CENTURY By 2020, more than half of RAISON D’ÊTRE : I collect Britain’s millionaires will AN OPEN LETTER TO THE WATCH INDUSTRY be women, with the number watches? growing by 11 per cent I wanted something that annually. The fundamental We have some potentially alarming news… Despite scientific evidencerepresented the fusion dynamics of the luxury to the contrary, what attaches a wearer to their watch is not, in of art and engineering, industry are set to change. – painstakingly crafted by fact, its strap or its bracelet. Yiah Chan, read more page 08. artisans as well as the latest It is its story. technology, and something that I can pass on to my kids. Watches fit the bill. The moment – Instagram Follower @no_ Time+Tide is a media group of world-leading watch writers who have frills_vc , read more page 09. Mad Men bonded over this shared belief. We are not reading enough old-fashioned, called beautifully crafted story in the current watch media landscape, so, together, we are going to write it. It was quiet and we were A MESSAGE sitting by the pool, and all of We are dedicated to unearthing the untold stories of both the well-knownFOR OMEGA a sudden the phone rang and and yet-to-be-known brands and watches. We then share this information it was the Prop Master for It would be great to see Omega Mad Men. It was very exciting. online, in print (glorious print) and in other surprising places, suchrevive the ‘60s version of the They basically needed the as events and launches. DeVille. An Omega DeVille watches in 24 hours, so that with a date is one of the best- was certainly stressful. They We are less about the movement of the piece than we are about whatselling watches in the vintage said, “We need the watches, moved the designer or watchmaker to create it in the first place. market. The prices have and we need them shipped We endeavour to get as close as possible to this original inspiration,increased rapidly. The people tomorrow. We need pieces for the human story behind the mechanical marvel. We are also united inthat our are buying them are quite well off. The clients I deal with Don Draper, Roger Sterling mission to bring the stylish everyday wristwatch wearer back into the “I like to pull a little bit of that are buying these watches and all the main characters. frame of global watch media. Did we mention we need them for $1,000 already own their $10,000 – $20,000 watch. tomorrow?” – Derek Dier, read Wehumanity are less about the into celebrity each ambassador painting. on the billboard than we more page 02. They’re buying it because it’s are about the entirely unfamous watch wearer on the street: this understated ad it sits low on discerningEven individual with thewho has watch chosen to portraits,wear 17th century mechanical the wrist. It’s automatic, it has technology in a thoroughly digital age. Why did they choose today’sthe date, and it’s very simple. – The Bronzo piece?I try What to does make it say about sure them? there’s How did they a come story.” to own it inDerek Dier, read more page 02. the first place? ‘The Bronzo’, would turn out to be my true love. The So, a watch media platformAt first, for I just telling,wanted to do and betterthough I like still, to think thatsharing, my American uniqueness and boldness of stories about watches somethingand wearers? kind of cool You and mightpaintings say, “it’s kind of workabout as a time.” the bronze case, the markings, interesting. I knew a little bit part of my collection. Hustle: the patina… every day you can And, in the final instance,about how it interested is about people time. “Time and tide waits for My focus is almost purely change it. Some days I put no man” is the very sayingare in watches that andinspired I thought it us to action. We know thatGreat Movie, ketchup on it, other days lemon would be a good topic. But the aesthetic. I like a watch for its the human heart is not a perpetual calendar. We also know that our juice, or 7UP to clean it. If it more I delved into it, the more I shape, colour, sheen or texture. Wrong Watch wasn’t worth so much money so-called golden age isdiscovered now and this intensethat cultureit happens All these to different be coinciding aspects that with BRADLEY COOPER yet another golden age for horology. ExcitingI thinktimes most towatch say collectors the least. I’d definitely be buried with around wristwatches. What IWC – 0 STARS it. – Pierrick Boyer, read more fascinated me the most was don’t necessarily consider. page 06. We look forward to tellingnot the watcheswatch themselves, stories and sharing wearer journeysAnother period faux pas. that will inspire, educatebut how and passionate entertain. their I had no idea that the 100 Bradley Cooper plays a owners are about them. Watches project would be as suspiciously haired FBI agent. effective or successful as it has An FBI Agent who can afford WEARING I only just purchased my first been. No idea. I didn’t really an IWC Da Vinci Perpetual S i n c e r e ly, watch very recently; a very, care in the beginning anyway. Calendar. A time travelling BASEL very humble watch. I picked I’d decided I was going to do FBI Agent who can afford a We suggest offsetting the it up at a street market in it whether people wanted to watch from the late 2000s. lustrous Blancpain Villeret Portugal. It has a wooden participate or not. After about If you must use such an Grand Feu enamel dial with bezel, the face is really simple. 20 I realised that this was outrageously inappropriate the tactile texture of a classic I’m a fan of round watches. going to be much harder than timepiece, at least put it on linen jacket. – Felix Scholz, It was gorgeous to me. My I first imagined. – Matthew a stretchy ‘70s band. – Felix read more page 08. collection has only just begun, Miller, read more page 05. Scholz, read more page 03. Time + Tide

P.02 P.06 P.08 FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED Watches on Screen Pierrick Boyer The Female Century COMPULSIVELY. FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM ISSUE Nº. 001 INDEPENDENT. SPIRITED. STORYTELLERS. BASEL LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION THURSDAY, 27th MARCH 2014 THE FEMALE Why do CENTURY By 2020, more than half of I collect Britain’s millionaires will be women, with the number watches? growing by 11 per cent I wanted something that annually. The fundamental represented the fusion dynamics of the luxury of art and engineering, industry are set to change. – painstakingly crafted by Yiah Chan, read more page 08. artisans as well as the latest technology, and something that I can pass on to my kids. Watches fit the bill. The moment – Instagram Follower @no_ Mad Men frills_vc , read more page 09. called It was quiet and we were A MESSAGE sitting by the pool, and all of FOR OMEGA a sudden the phone rang and it was the Prop Master for It would be great to see Omega Mad Men. It was very exciting. revive the ‘60s version of the They basically needed the DeVille. An Omega DeVille watches in 24 hours, so that with a date is one of the best- was certainly stressful. They selling watches in the vintage said, “We need the watches, market. The prices have and we need them shipped increased rapidly. The people tomorrow. We need pieces for that are buying them are quite Don Draper, Roger Sterling “I like to pull a little bit of well off. The clients I deal with and all the main characters. that are buying these watches Did we mention we need them for $1,000 already own their tomorrow?” – Derek Dier, read humanity into each painting. $10,000 – $20,000 watch. more page 02. They’re buying it because it’s understated ad it sits low on Even with the watch portraits, the wrist. It’s automatic, it has the date, and it’s very simple. – The Bronzo I try to make sure there’s a story.” Derek Dier, read more page 02. ‘The Bronzo’, would turn out to be my true love. The At first, I just wanted to do though I like to think that my uniqueness and boldness of something kind of cool and paintings kind of work as a American the bronze case, the markings, interesting. I knew a little bit part of my collection. the patina… every day you can about how interested people Hustle: change it. Some days I put are in watches and I thought it My focus is almost purely Great Movie, ketchup on it, other days lemon would be a good topic. But the aesthetic. I like a watch for its juice, or 7UP to clean it. If it more I delved into it, the more I shape, colour, sheen or texture. Wrong Watch wasn’t worth so much money discovered this intense culture All these different aspects that BRADLEY COOPER I think most watch collectors I’d definitely be buried with around wristwatches. What IWC – 0 STARS it. – Pierrick Boyer, read more fascinated me the most was don’t necessarily consider. page 06. not the watches themselves, Another period faux pas. Published 2014 by Story Matters Most I had no idea that the 100 Bradley Cooper plays a © Copyright Story Matters Most 2014 but how passionate their owners are about them. Watches project would be as suspiciously haired FBI agent. Enquiries effective or successful as it has An FBI Agent who can afford [email protected] WEARING I only just purchased my first been. No idea. I didn’t really an IWC Da Vinci Perpetual watch very recently; a very, care in the beginning anyway. Calendar. A time travelling All rights reserved. No part of this publication BASEL may be reproduced or transmitted in any form very humble watch. I picked I’d decided I was going to do FBI Agent who can afford a or by any means, electronic or mechanical, We suggest offsetting the it up at a street market in it whether people wanted to watch from the late 2000s. including photocopying, scanning or lustrous Blancpain Villeret Portugal. It has a wooden participate or not. After about If you must use such an photographing without prior permission in writing from the publisher. Grand Feu enamel dial with bezel, the face is really simple. 20 I realised that this was outrageously inappropriate the tactile texture of a classic I’m a fan of round watches. going to be much harder than timepiece, at least put it on Editor : Felix Scholz linen jacket. – Felix Scholz, It was gorgeous to me. My I first imagined. – Matthew a stretchy ‘70s band. – Felix Contributors : Andrew McUtchen, Yiah Chan Design Direction : Fiona Chambers read more page 08. collection has only just begun, Miller, read more page 05. Scholz, read more page 03. Illustrations : Matt Miller, Mal Chambers

MOVIE REVIEWS ABOUT WATCHES

Lapels from the past and a watch Follow us on Instagram from the future. Ben Affleck inArgo . Top of the Props @timetidewatches

Watch lovers are fully aware that their interest in timepieces doesn’t check out at the doors to a movie theatre, or on the couch, enjoying their favourite television programs. In fact, that passion only intensifies in these places, as the horophiles’ eyes dart to the wrists of actors and actresses on the screen.

This section is dedicated not to reviewing movies, but to reviewing the watches placed Follower: @davidoffbrothers in movies. We are assessing the choice based Watch: Omega Seamaster on whether the story and the aesthetic of MEET THE ‘Bullhead’ Chronograph, circa 1969. Location: Geneva, the timepiece is a good fit with the character Switzerland. You and watches: wearing it. A very Time+Tide approach to the FROM THE EDITOR MAN BEHIND My brother and I have been subject, in other words! collecting vintage watches for MAD MEN as long as I can remember. Welcome to Time+Tide, A quick word of warning though: the ratings We are passionate, addicted. below are in no way a reflection of the quality We can’t seem to get enough! a new voice in the watch of the movie. There have been some dreadful WHAT IS THE GOAL The story of this piece: Judging movies with fantastic watches (yes you, OF THIS EXERCISE? by its papers this watch was media landscape. Expendables) just as there have been some To hopefully inspire more considered and, delivered to Mexico in early 1970. Oscar winning movies with unfortunate watch yes, more imaginative watch placements in The dial is pristine and we believe show business. We are aiming to keep Prop it has been kept in a dark place, My name is Felix Scholz, I am the editor of Time+Tide and, choices, a major example of which is listed below. Masters as honest as Derek Dier, the watch perhaps a safe, for most of its life. like so many of you – a lover of fine watches. While I would ARGO I was definitely the first to open fig 01. consultant employed to place watches for profess to being a rounded man, I am unevenly weighted in IWC Portuguese Chronograph BEN AFFLECK, it to oil the movement, quite 01. Series 5 and 6 of AMC show Mad Men. His my interests and hobbies towards the little machines I wear (reference IW371480) “I just supplied ROLEX SUBMARINER amazing really. Why this one: It’s House of Cards thoughtful approach and attention to detail such a funky look. The re-issue on my wrist every day. 1 STAR when matching watches to characters is watches to a new of the Omega Bullhead is about fig 02. nothing short of benchmark. An epic, ambitious film, that captures In this mini-magazine, we hope to give a glimpse of what Patek Philippe Calatrava to arrive, which is really exciting, Clint Eastwood the spirit (and fashion) of the times. we have planned at Time+Tide and what makes us different. (reference 5196G), Drive Omega obviously think so too. He sees a marked improvement in the The props team, who did so well in We also can’t wait to see the True to watch industry form, it is a limited run of only 250 movie, Jersey Boys, efforts of Prop Masters generally and the the beard and lapel departments, Mark II Speedmaster. copies, each Singer-stitched with red thread, which, in emphasis placed on selecting appropriate failed epically when it came to the heraldry and in our case, symbolises courage. which is about to timepieces for era and character: “I think it watch, placing a 2008 ceramic Rolex 02. come out. They There is one story we’d like to highlight for your special is happening a lot more. I notice I’m getting Submariner on 1979 Ben Affleck, attention. In the centre spread, we interview a pastry a lot more calls to provide watches for didn’t hesitate essentially giving his wrist a time chef par excellence and a gentleman, Pierrick Boyer. It’s a movies and they’re willing to spend money. spending $5,000 machine 30 years into the future. memoir told entirely through his watch choices over time. Generally they used to call me and want an 03. It is also a perfect example of how our watch journey says item for $200. I’d say, ‘You can’t get a watch DRIVE dollars on some HOUSE OF CARDS so much of our personal journey, through life, career and an that will look appropriate for an era for a RYAN GOSLING, KEVIN SPACEY, evolving sense of identity. You can expect more stories like couple hundred dollars.’ basic watches for PATEK PHILIPPE IWC this from our writers at Time+Tide. the leads. They’re 4 STARS The devil is in the details, and never before Such an ambient and quietly menacing 5 STARS God knows there is enough collateral at in the watch world, have they been so easily scrutinized. HD paying more film by Nicolas Refn and such an The Shakespearean Frank Underwood we don’t want to unnecessarily add to weight of your already video and Google have made it easier than attention because eye-catching choice of watch for the is clearly a fan of IWC – he’s seen overfilled valise. But we wanted to publish this paper because ever to identify onscreen watches, putting taciturn driver played by Gosling. sporting a dressy Da Vinci and a Follower: @no_frills_vc fig 03. pressure on Prop Masters to get it right. Portuguese Chronograph (both in regal Watch: Patek Philippe Nautilus sometimes the old fashioned things, like watches, cannot be IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar I think they know His choice of a classic, tasteful and ref 5711/1A. Location: Fifth beaten for getting an important message across in a way that Digital Date-Month (reference expensive piece says volumes about a gold). We really appreciate that Frank IW376107), American Hustle Avenue in New York City near tells the world who you are. the public is more man who, for the length of the film, says isn’t just a one watch guy, and think that the Metropolitan Museum of Art both are pitch perfect choices. Modern intelligent now. almost nothing. Drive also proves that – during one of the recent snow A print publication says something about who we are at even Hollywood budgets aren’t limitless watches with elegant, masculine TIME + TIDE’S PATRON SAINT storms. You and watches: I am Time+Tide, but there is much more to discover online, And because the – instead of risking the real deal the design that just ooze the power that drawn to superb craftsmanship, ERNEST HEMINGWAY at timeandtidewatches.com or in conversation with public is paying props team elected to use replicas. Underwood craves. These dressy subtle, elegant aesthetics and our team. watches are the perfect choice for heirloom value. In this age of In his novel Across the River and Into the Trees the master more attention!” THE WOLF OF WALL STREET an aspiring President. instant gratification and throwaway storyteller Ernest Hemingway compared a mechanical watch We look forward to connecting. LEONARDO DICAPRIO, products, I wanted something that to the human heart. It was the most beautiful reflection on a TAG HEUER AMERICAN HUSTLE represented the fusion of art and Sincerely, timepiece that we’d ever read and inspiration to seek a more Derek Dier engineering, crafted by artisans 2 STARS BRADLEY COOPER, writerly, poetic approach to watch writing. Watch Consultant as well as the latest technology. DiCaprio actually sports a few watches IWC Something I can pass on to my 0 STARS We keep the picture pinned to the corkboard in our office as in this tale of excess and greed. After kids. Watches fit the bill.Why a constant reminder and a motivator. The passage reads: he throws away his period (and Another period faux pas. Cooper plays this one: The 5711 is sleek, with profession) correct gold Rolex he sports a suspiciously haired FBI agent. An a distinctive shape that whispers a Heuer 1000 in gold. TWOWS perfectly FBI Agent who can afford an IWC elegance rather than scream for “It’s just a muscle. Only it is the main muscle. It works attention. Plus in steel and on a Felix Scholz captures Wall Street’s watch culture Perpetual Calendar. A time travelling as perfectly as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The trouble bracelet, it’s an all weather watch. thought gets a little over zealous when FBI Agent who can afford a watch from Editor, Time+Tide is you cannot send it to the Rolex representative I swim with it and take it to all sorts [email protected] when it goes wrong.” placing an IWC Big Pilot – ref.5002, the late 2000s. If you must use such an of trips. No safe queen, this one! released in 2002 – on one of Jordan outrageously inappropriate timepiece, Belfort’s sidekicks. at least put it on a stretchy ‘70s band. ISSUE Nº. 001 FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR 04 LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM 05

TIME+TIDE INTERVIEW 100 Watches in Solitude – the passion and the pain that powered the 100 Watches project.

Matthew Miller first came T+T: Why did you do the 100 Watches “I like to pull a little T+T: As it should, we love this project. to our attention with his project in the first place? Why did you paint on the pages of an ingenious take on a street bit of humanity old novel? MM: At first, I just wanted to do style blog, which he calls the something kind of cool and interesting. into each painting. MM: That started a couple of years ‘Daily Fashion Project’. Rather I knew a little bit about how interested Even with the watch ago, sort of as an accident, just as I was than just photograph his daily people are in watches and I thought it really beginning my men’s fashion subject, Miller, under the nom would be a good topic. But the more I portraits, I try to journey. I was doing a lot of quick de plume ‘Sunflowerman’, delved into it, the more I discovered this gestural drawings and I was running intense culture around wristwatches. make sure that it out of this paper I was using. But I actually paints them in simple What fascinated me the most was carries a story with wasn’t ready to stop. So I picked up this watercolour portraits. not the watches themselves, but how old book that was falling apart and I passionate their owners are about them. it; the story of the used the pages from that. Right away Epitomising the notion that less can people responded. It adds some context be more Miller manages to capture the person who owned T+T: What is your personal story to a painting that doesn’t exist if it’s just nuanced nature of identity using a spare with watches? it or created it.” a plain white background. number of broad-strokes. He shows, for example, how the way you hold MM: It is a short story. I only just T+T: Are the pages all from the yourself, and the way you pose for a purchased my first watch recently; a same book? portrait, can express your style as very, very humble watch. I picked it up much as your outfit. at a street market in Portugal. It has a MM: Yes, actually. They’re all Sherlock wooden bezel, the face is really simple. Holmes stories. Which to me, is a There is, however, a problem with this I’m a fan of round watches. It was perfect context for men’s fashion in exquisite minimal style of painting gorgeous to me. My collection has only particular, because Sherlock Holmes for lovers of the wristwatch. You can just begun, though I like to think that tends to be this quintessential man’s never quite identify the timepiece on my paintings kind of work as a part of gentleman who is educated and he goes the daily model. Miller has redeemed my collection. T+T: Did you have any idea the out and gets things done. I think as a himself in spectacular fashion with the project would become something whole, our culture looks up to him and ‘100 Watches’ project. He requested T+T: In that case, your collection of an internet phenomenon? holds him up as an icon. that people send wristshots of their is magnificent! Speaking of the favourite watches and, for a small fee, 100 Watches gallery, from an artist’s MM: Man, I had no idea that it would T+T: What is the secret ingredient he would paint them and send back a point of view, which models were be as effective or successful as it has to your work? signed copy. the most exciting to paint? been. No idea. I didn’t really care in the beginning anyway. I’d decided I was MM: I like to pull a little bit of Miller will now publish all 100 micro- MM: That’s a great question. I did do going to do it whether people wanted humanity into each painting. Even with portraits, along with a short story one MB&F watch, which was really to participate or not. the watch portraits, I try to make sure about each wearer or collector in a book exciting because it was different. I’m there’s a story; the story of the person titled 100 Watches. Time+Tide spoke not sure if I’m going to say this right, but T+T: The paintings are each so who owned it or created it. with Miller to find out what makes this the Panerai watches, if that’s how you unique, they must have been a lot of talented artist tick. pronounce it, are also beautiful to paint. work. Was there ever a time when you T+T: Having interviewed 100 people regretted committing to doing 100? about their favourite watches, are T+T: There is an impression, from you any closer to knowing why people your work, which is so lovingly MM: After about 20 I realised that this love them so much? detailed, that you’re a watch fan, was going to be much harder than I first but you seem really new to them…? imagined. And then after 50 I thought, MM: One common thread were stories my gosh, there are still 50 more! And I of posterity. Often, people receive their MM: It’s true. I really don’t know sat down every day, and I love painting, watches from parents or grandparents. anything about watches, my focus is but after a while it did feel a little bit It came down from history and it ended The 100 Watches book will be almost purely aesthetic. I like a watch like work. I felt like I’d got in a little over up being in their possession. That’s available for purchase by mid-April for its shape, colour, sheen or texture. my head. But once I finished watch 100, one of the more powerful aspects of the via sunflowerman.com. It features All these different aspects that I think I was exhausted but really excited being stories that came through in the project. the stories of 100 watches and their most watch collectors don’t necessarily able to look back on all the watches. It wearers / collectors. consider. was just fantastic. It makes me happy. ISSUE Nº. 001 FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR 06 LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM 07

WEARER WATCH JOURNEY

Pierrick Boyer fig 02.

BY FELIX SCHOLZ Nº. 01 : 14K GOLD Pierrick Boyer is a master Pierrick Boyer, with his COMMUNION WATCH pastry chef living, in the words beloved Bronzo and his most VERSAILLES, FRANCE recent purchase, a PAM 532 AGE: 12 of Frank Ocean, one sweet ‘Paneristi Forever’ fig 03. fig 04. life. He is excited daily by the WHERE: Versailles, France PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA, act of balancing “unusual and My first watch was given to me at my UNITED STATES untested combinations” of first communion. I was 12-years-old, ingredients at his patisserie in it was 14-carat gold. I remember it was HO CHI MINH, Melbourne, La Petite Gateaux. heavy! I wore it on Sundays or to my VIETNAM grandparent’s house. I loved the way it SINGAPORE If a picture paints a thousand looked and felt. I was young, but I could words, then one of Pierrick’s tell the craftsmanship made it special. I avocado and chocolate tarts moved around a lot with my parents and it was misplaced somewhere. paints many thousand more; one for every taste bud that dances to his culinary Nº. 02 : fig 01. MELBOURNE, creations. In the interests of AUSTRALIA full disclosure I should confess BREITLING B-1 PILOT’S that Pierrick arrived at the CHRONOGRAPH interview bearing a chocolate AGE: 24 chilli mango dessert that left WHERE: California, United States my ears ringing. No words. It’s I bought it from a German retailer who lucky, then, that a Dictaphone fig 05. fig 06. fig 07. shipped it to me from Ibiza. I bought could catch these, as he talks it because it was half price. It cost me Time+Tide through his world- $2500, which was a lot of money back spanning watch journey. then; it was a big deal, it was over a month’s salary. It was sparkly, different, fig 01. fig 05. Nº. 05 : Nº. 07 : Nº. 08 : with the two digital sections. Breitling B-1 Chopard Mille Miglia (reference A68362) GT XL Power Control PANERAI PANERAI PAM 382 PANERAI PAM 532 (reference 168457-3002) fig 02. IWC Big Pilot fig 06. PAM 270 ‘BRONZO’ ‘PANERISTI FOREVER’ Nº. 03 : (reference 5009) Panerai Luminor 1950 10 Days AGE: 36 AGE: 37 AGE: 39 fig 03. (reference PAM00270) WHERE: Melbourne, Australia WHERE: Singapore WHERE: Singapore CHOPARD Panerai Luminor FAVOURITE Submersible 1950 3 Days fig 07. WATCH SNAP SHOT MILLE MIGLIA Automatic ‘Bronzo’ Rolex Deepsea I remember the first time I saw a Panerai. This is a funny case of sliding doors I met Volker from Germany at a Panerai (reference PAM00382) (reference 116660) AGE: 35 I was in California. When I remember because I was actually invited to a ‘G2G’ in Singapore. He told me about a fig 04. WHERE: Melbourne, Australia Panerai Radomir 1940 3 that first sight, I get like a little shiver. Panerai dinner as a result of the Rolex book he’d written on vintage Panerai. Make : Model DAYS ‘Paneristi Forever’ I knew it would only be a matter of time Deepsea purchase. They were presenting I was interested because I love World Panerai : Luminor Submersible “I remember the first This was the year I turned 35. I bought (reference PAM00532) until I had one. My first was a PAM 270. a new collection and I was kind of War 2 history in particular. I wasn’t 1950 3 Days Automatic ‘Bronzo’ so many watches. I was consulting as a I loved the brushed stainless steel case showing off. I was high rolling with a really into the 1940s case of the PAM pastry chef and, for the first time, really with a ring of shiny steel and the 10 Days black credit card and I committed to 532 at first, but he had so much passion Circa : Model No. time I saw a Panerai. flying with all the extra cash. Instead of GMT Power Reserve, but it was 44mm buying it before I even knew how much it for the subject that he changed me. Now 2011 : PAM00382 saving it I would just burn it. This watch and it just felt a little bit small. cost. The story has a happy ending, I really like the styling of this piece, the was a favourite with female friends – the because this watch, the Bronzo, would respect it shows to the past. A guy called I was in California. red power reserve and tyre strap was turn out to be my true love. The Jim Wirth gave me the strap. It’s a 1942 ø : Case 47mm : Brushed Bronze just hot. Nº. 06 : uniqueness and boldness of the bronze French ammo pouch. I burned a part of it case, the markings, the patina… every with my cigar one night to commemorate When I remember ROLEX day you can change it. Some days I put a friend’s birthday. We were in Hong Dial Nº. 04 : DEEPSEA ketchup on it, other days lemon juice, or Kong, it was a big moment. It was a way Green with applied luminous 7UP to clean it. If it wasn’t worth so to remember it, and it looks cool. dots and hour markers. Date at that first sight, I get IWC AGE: 36 much money I’d definitely be buried with 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock WHERE: Melbourne, Australia BIG PILOT it. But instead it will go to my wife or my a little shiver.” AGE: 35 I’d never really been attracted to Rolex, family to be sold. All of my other watches Movement WHERE: Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam but there were a few things about the I could, and probably will, sell at some Automatic mechanical, Deepsea that drew me in. Firstly, the point. Never the Bronzo. Never. Panerai P.9000 It’s amazing. I love the classical aviation size and the thickness. I also wanted styling and at 46.2mm it’s the perfect to test the reputation for accuracy by Strap size. The big face, the rivets in the strap, actually owning one. It proved to be a Personalised leather strap this watch is perfectly realised. It was beautifully balanced watch, it felt really and large-size brushed titanium hard to let go of when I sold it, but I good on the wrist. But I just couldn’t get buckle needed the money at the time. emotionally attached to it. ISSUE Nº. 001 FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR 08 LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM 09

THE FUTURE:

TIME + TIDE FASHION Follow us on Instagram ENGINEERED @timetidewatches

FOR WOMEN? fig 01. fig 04. Peter Speake-Marin Bell&Ross BR03-4 WEARING BASEL 03. Spirit Seafire; Pair it with: Carbon Orange; Pair it Waxed Jacket by Barbour with: Denim by APC

fig 02. fig 05. BY YIAH CHAN Omega Speedmaster Mark Maurice Lacroix II; Pair it with: T-shirt Masterpiece Gravity; HOROLOGIUM.COM.AU We take a small sample of this year’s Baselworld releases by Tbar Pair it with: Suede derby and pair them with the people and the outfits that will suit shoes by Paul Smith and John Lobb If you’re a discerning woman fig 03. them best. Blancpain Villeret Grand in the luxury watch world, Feu; Pair it with: Linen you’re hard pressed to find a Jacket by Cordings watch designed for a woman that isn’t quartz, the size of a Follower: @cutchdog Watch: Omega Planet Ocean men’s subdial or covered with PETER SPEAKE-MARIN wants a known brand with a great How to wear it XL. Location: Emirates Business stones. What happened? How SPIRIT SEAFIRE story, but something a little less It takes a degree of self-assurance Lounge, Dubai. You and watches: did we come to this? Where expected than the standard Speedy. to wear a B&R watch outside of a For years now I’ve bought fakes. are the cutting edge watches The story cockpit. The bright colour on this I had a collection. But I wanted English born independent limited edition only accentuates to move up to the big league. for women? Why wear it watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin The Omega Speedmaster is one this. This is unmistakably a casual Although it appeared that I had the pieces, the B&Rs, the Panerais; has been making distinctive of the greatest, iconic watches of watch – we suggest pairing it with The luxury watch world is currently, I could never wear them with timepieces for over ten years – all time. Period. The Mark II is its some obscure raw, selvedge denim. for better or worse, a man’s, man’s complete pride because I knew world. Yet this wasn’t always the this is his first chronograph. funky younger brother. Still with the the truth; they weren’t real, which case. Here’s something you don’t hear great family name and legacy, but a Who wears it meant that I wasn’t being real about in most brand’s origin stories; How to wear it little less buttoned up. This watch is made for a younger either. So I decided to step up. wristwatches were originally designed The titanium Seafire with its wearer working in a profession 01. Why this one: The Planet Ocean made time for beautiful for me to be worn by wealthy women. While distinctive Piccadilly case peeking where a bold timepiece is not BLANCPAIN again. It was not my first choice, men caught on during WW1, mostly out from under a Pringle cashmere frowned upon, and stark lines and Barbour cuff would make any VILLERET will be appreciated. I’ve had pretend love affairs with through necessity, they were trumped PAMs and B&Rs, but in the end the British heart swell with pride. again a few years later when a woman rugged versatility sold me. I love The story wore the first Rolex sports watch – Why wear it the story of adventure that comes Blancpain is a brand that values swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore a Who wears it Because you like it – it’s as simple as with an Omega. It’s bold, but not their legacy. And nowhere is that Rolex Oyster when she successfully The Seafire is for lovers of military that. It’s a perfect watch if you want too bold. It’s a watch you can wear more evident than in the Villeret swam the English Channel in 1927. inspired chronographs – someone to make a statement. in and outside the box. collection. This latest addition is a Three years later, in 1930, the who understands the relationship classic dress watch with Grand Feu Rolex catalogue offered 79 women’s between watch and maker and enamel dial. MAURICE LACROIX wristwatches and only 37 for men. wants to dip their toes into independent horology. MASTERPIECE GRAVITY So, there is a long history of women How to wear it wearing watches, and not just as Why wear it To wear this watch you need to The story ornaments. But in today’s male- If you want a watch made in small understand that true style, like good Maurice Lacroix has spent the last oriented watch world, women fall by numbers with a greater degree of watch design, is timeless. While it’s few years quietly making some truly the wayside. When wristwatches are customisation than that offered by black tie ready, we suggest offsetting excellent watches. This year they’ve designed especially for women, brands the larger maisons, the Spirit Seafire the lustre of the dial with the tactile made an impressive addition to their seem to think that making something is well worth considering. texture of a classic linen jacket. higher end Masterpiece collection. smaller and festooning the dial with Who wears it How to wear it diamonds is the way to go. Sorry, it Follower: @n4tos OMEGA The Villeret is for people confident The industrial styling of the Gravity 02. isn’t. Diamonds have their place, but Watch: TAG Heuer Carrera SPEEDMASTER MARK II enough not to be at the mercy of the speaks very much to the future, for many women jewelled watches are Chronograph, Calibre 1887. price prohibitive and impractical for vicissitudes of fashion, and who while the blued hands and roman Location: Collins Street, everyday wear. Not all women want the The story know that everyone needs a good numerals remember the past. Melbourne, Australia. You and same types of watches anymore than The 1969 Moonwatch is one of the dress watch. Pair this marriage of tradition and watches: One of my earliest all men want the same – variety is most storied watches around. But innovation with blue suede shoes, memories is a ‘birthday present request’ for a red and navy a good thing, and in this regard, the it’s only part of the sprawling Speedy Why wear it a collaboration between traditional Swatch watch following a visit to watch industry is letting women down. family. Meet the Mark II. Simply put, the dial. An enamel dial cordwainers John Lobb and is a special thing to behold in the designer Paul Smith. 04. the Swiss Pavilion at World Expo 1988 in Brisbane. I still remember How to wear it flesh, and the rose gold case and The 21st Century is being deemed little details like the finish of the It’d be tricky to pull this watch off hand painted roman numerals show ‘The Female Century’ and the facts are Who wears it band and the way it tasted when compelling. By 2020, more than half of with a suit. Its beauty is not made to it off to perfection. The Maurice Lacroix Gravity chewed. Why this one: My line 05. Britain’s millionaires will be women, be obscured by cuffs. The bold case is for the watch collector who of work requires me to engage with the number growing by 11 per cent shape and retro masculine sporty understands the importance with key decision makers across annually. The dynamics of the luxury vibe make this a watch ideally BELL&ROSS BR03-94 of technological innovation in the public and private sector. industry are set to change. The watch paired with a sports car and flame CARBON ORANGE horology, and someone unafraid Presentation and perception play a role in forming and maintaining industry might once have been men retardant suit. Failing that – your of contemporary design. relationships, especially at senior buying for themselves, or men buying band shirt of choice. The story levels. While I don’t subscribe to Bell&Ross were one of the first Why wear it for women. Soon it will be women the concept that material items buying for themselves and, heaven Who wears it brands to carve out a niche in the Wear this watch if you are excited maketh the man, I do think that a forbid, women buying for men. This watch is for a man who’s into hyper-masculine military watch about the future direction of high- well presented combination can vinyl and valve amps, but also loves market with their now iconic end watchmaking, and a lover of communicate messages about Over to you, watch brands. his macbook. It’s for someone who instrument watches. futuristic, industrial design. one’s personality. STORY DWELLERS 9842 ft = 3000m

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