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Softly, Softly in the Wilderness

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Softly, Softly in the Wilderness 09 February 2017 Page 20, 21 Ref 09-02-20170d17 Softly, softly in the wilderness WILD: Pieter van der Woude (inset, top left) shows off Maatsuyker Island (inset, bottom left) and Bathurst Harbour. Amid the storm of controversy over opening the World Heritage Area to increased tourism, a former abalone fisherman is trying to navigate a smooth course, reports Don Knowler Sitting at the helm of his tourist vessel, Pieter van der Woude is keeping pace with a shy albatross weaving through the white tops ahead of him on the open ocean. The skipper might be at the cutting edge of tourism within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area but for once he has escaped to an environment he loves best, that of rocky shores and crashing waves. Mr van der Woude has seized the chance to extend his regular itinerary of guiding guests aboard the Odalisque through the channels and bays of Bathurst Harbour, to explore the farthest outpost of the wilderness region, the remote Maatsuyker Island with its historic lighthouse. Out on the open ocean, the sea spray washing across the Odalisque’s bow framing Maatsuyker in the arc of a rainbow, it’s hard to fathom that Tasmania’s wilderness and its wild coasts are at the centre of political controversy. There has been much commentary, and argument, over the past two years since the then new Liberal Government announced its intention to open Tasmania’s wilderness to business. This has not gone entirely to plan and the Government announced in December it was again calling for expressions of interest (EOI) from operators to develop tourism projects after only five of 37 proposals had so far won approval. One of these was Mr van der Woude’ s Tasmanian Boat Charters, which was lauded by Premier Will Hodgman last year as perfectly fitting the bill for such ventures, one that did not leave a “footprint” in largely pristine areas. Copied by the Tasmanian Parliamentary Library subject to the Copyright Act 1968 (cwth) - SECT 48A Page 1 of 3 09 February 2017 Page 20, 21 Ref 09-02-20170d17 Mr Hodgman said the whole EOI process represented an opportunity to attract up to $70 million of investment, creating at least 300 jobs. Meeting Mr van der Woude it is clear he wants to avoid the controversy surrounding wilderness tourism, but all the same he believes there is scope for more visitors. “As a Tasmanian and a long-time lover of Tasmania’s coastline, its waters and the treasure it holds, I established the business to be able to share the coastal wilderness with like-minded explorers,” he says as his vessel rounds South-West Cape after leaving the Breaksea Islands, which protect the Bathurst Channel from the Southern Ocean swells and form part of the overall Port Davey Marine Park. “I also have a great interest in wildlife and this is what I want to share on my cruises.” As an operator of tourism at the high end of the market, Mr van der Woude has come a long way from his first job, patrolling the beat as a member of the Tasmania Police Force. During 12 years with the police, he was involved with marine activities including diving and search and rescue before leaving the force to become an abalone driver and skipper for 25 years. The design of the Odalisque is based on Mr van der Woude’s old abalone boat extended to accommodate small parties of tourists. And the name also traces its roots to Mr van der Woude’ s abalone days. “Abalone divers traditionally give their boats names with a sexual connotation, for a bit of fun. They’re risque, if you like. “I named my vessel the Odalisque in that tradition. An odalisque is, of course, a concubine in a harem.” For the guests he takes to Maatsuyker, a close-up view of the rocky shores is mandatory, before a dinghy takes them from the Odalisque to a landing stage at the start of the steep, short climb to the top of the old haulage way and then along a grassy mown track to the houses used by the light keepers. On a recent visit, the low layers of rocks all around the shores were populated by barking, braying fur seals. On the slow approach to the Maatsuyker landing stage, seals gently slid into the water, but four elephant seals appeared unfazed by the visitors’ approach. A female elephant seal sat close to the derrick that once was used to unload building materials for the lighthouse site and, then, supplies for the lighthouse crew. The visit to Maatsuyker fits in with Mr van der Woude’s overall vision for tourism in remote areas. Copied by the Tasmanian Parliamentary Library subject to the Copyright Act 1968 (cwth) - SECT 48A Page 2 of 3 09 February 2017 Page 20, 21 Ref 09-02-20170d17 “I wanted to create an experience that would allow people to experience Tasmania’s remote and pristine South-West, an area inaccessible to many, and this inspired the current Odalisque build,’’ Mr van der Woude says of the 20-metre vessel. “We want to share what is a unique and special place.’’ Mr van der Woude stresses the Odalisque takes out everything it brings in from Hobart at the start of the tourist season in summer. As at Maatsuyker, passengers are also ferried to shore throughout most of Bathurst Harbour by dinghy, reducing the need for unsightly jetties. Within Bathurst Harbour, the vessel itself rests at its own sunken mooring, its establishment being negotiated during the EOI process. This ensures there is no disturbance of the fragile sea bed by the continuous use of anchors. Those in government promoting an increased level of commercial activity in the wilderness point out that it is not totally free of the influence of humans, from the ochremining activities of the first Aboriginal residents to the tin mining carried out by the famous pioneer at Melaleuca, Deny King. It is the white quartz runway built by King that provides access to the area for the flights that bring in tourists for Mr van der Woude’s operation, and for visitors arriving for other activities, including viewing the critically endangered orange-bellied parrot at feeding stations at Melaleuca. Among unease about the Government’s plans for the area has been the possibility of increased flights, and especially helicopter operations. Amid all the controversy over the area, Mr van der Woude hopes his business, with daughter Lucy aboard, will become a role model for opening the state’s South-West for tourism. Former Mercury journalist Don Knowler writes the “On the wing” column on bird-watching in the TasWeekend magazine. He has a love of wild places. Copied by the Tasmanian Parliamentary Library subject to the Copyright Act 1968 (cwth) - SECT 48A Page 3 of 3 .
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