Dufton is in the North Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Geology and landscape around European & Global Geopark

European and Global Geoparks The North Pennines AONB is Britain’s first European Geopark, a status supported by UNESCO, and a founding member of the Global Geoparks Network. Geoparks are special places with outstanding geology and landscape, and where there are strong local efforts to make the most of geological heritage through interpretation, education, conservation and nature tourism. To find out more visit www.europeangeoparks.org A 3¾-mile walk exploring landscape, rocks, Walk starts from here archaeology and mining heritage North Pennines Find out more about North Pennine geology AONB & European Geopark © Crown Copyright. All rights reserved. This leaflet is one of a series of geological publications Durham County Council. LA100049055. 2012. about the North Pennines. These are part of the North Pennines AONB Partnership’s work to make the most of our special geological heritage. This work includes events, For more information please contact: education resources, publications, displays and much North Pennines AONB Partnership, +44 (0)1388 528801 more… Business Centre, [email protected] The Old Co-op Building, www.northpennines.org.uk 1 Martin Street, Stanhope, twitter.com/NorthPennAONB To find out more about the geology of Dufton and nearby Bishop Auckland, facebook.com/NorthPenninesAONB , visit High Cup Winery, 2km (1¼ miles) DL13 2UY outside Dufton along the road to Murton. It houses a display on the local geology, which can be viewed whenever the winery is open (contact: 017683 53714, [email protected], www.highcupwines.co.uk).

The North Pennines AONB Partnership holds a Gold GTBS Award for its corporate office and tourism activities.

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Geology and landscape display at High Cup Winery Supported by

Front cover: Dufton fountain. Painted map, illustrations and photographs © NPAP/Elizabeth Pickett. Map based partly on OS mapping © Crown Copyright. All rights This publication is printed on Greencoat Velvet 80 (150gsm) — 80% recycled reserved. Durham County Council. LA 100049055. 2012. fibre content, with vegetable-based inks. Please re-use or recycle. 01/12/5K

Welcome to a special landscape… The oldest rocks in the North Pennines Mineral riches …shaped by millions of years of natural processes The oldest rocks in the North Pennines are exposed in a The North Pennines is and thousands of years of human activity. belt along the escarpment and form distinctive conical hills famous for its mineral like Dufton Pike. These rocks are and volcanic rocks, deposits. These formed The landscape around Dufton has been nearly 500million which formed between 480 and 420million years ago, in about 290million years years in the making and contains some of the oldest rocks the and periods of Earth history. They ago, from warm mineral-rich in the North Pennines. From explosive volcanoes and were once mud and volcanic ash at the edge of a wide waters flowing through tropical seas to deserts, glaciers and miners — all have ocean. When the ocean closed the mud and ash were fractures underground. helped shape this beautiful landscape. squashed and altered to form hard slaty rocks. These rocks As the fluids cooled, their This circular walk around Dufton Pike will introduce you to are separated from the rocks of the Eden Valley and the dissolved minerals North Pennine hills by faults — cracks in the Earth’s crust crystallized in the cracks, some of the special features of the landscape. By spotting along which the rocks have moved relative to each other. building up mineral veins. clues in the hills, valleys and buildings you’ll find out how Mineral vein sample from to read the landscape and discover more about its In the 18th and 19th Great Rundale, containing fascinating past. centuries Dufton was a busy bands of barytes (white) The sections opposite describe how the local rocks formed mining village. The London and the lead ore mineral, Lead Company mined lead galena (lead-grey) and how the landscape has been shaped by ice and, in ore in these hills until the more recent times, by people. 1870s. In the late 1800s Dufton Fell Mine was turned over to the production of barytes, a heavy white mineral used in the chemical and paint industries. Walk length/time: Approx. 6km (3¾miles) with 150m of ascent, taking about 2–2½hours Desert rocks Start/finish: Dufton village car park Grid Reference NY 689 250 The Eden Valley is underlain by red sandstones, which Looking south-east along the escarpment, along the line of formed between 290 and 210million years ago in the Terrain: This route is on public footpaths and bridleways, faults which separate the North Pennine hills to the left, from and periods. These rocks formed from and two short stretches of minor road. It follows good the 'pikes' on the right. Dufton Pike is in the middle distance sand deposited in dunes and rivers, when this area was a paths and tracks, with several stiles. After a sustained but desert north of the equator. You can see these red rocks in gradual climb, the route is gentle and undulating. Walking the buildings in Dufton and elsewhere along the foot of the boots are recommended as the route can be rough and escarpment and in the Eden Valley. muddy in places. Please keep dogs under close control (on Tropical North Pennines a lead on the moor and through fields with livestock) and The rocks that lie above the slates and volcanic rocks, and leave gates as you find them. which make up most of the North Pennines, are layers of , sandstone and . They formed in the Public transport: For timetable information call Traveline Period — 360 to 300million years ago. Back on 0871 200 2233 (www.traveline.info) then, the North Pennines lay near the equator and was periodically covered by shallow tropical seas and deltas. Facilities: The Stag Inn, Dufton Youth Hostel, car park and Over time, the limy ooze on the sea floor hardened into public toilets (visit www.duftonvillage.info for further limestone, and the delta sands and muds turned into details, including more accommodation) sandstone and shale. This walk doesn’t pass over The North Pennine escarpment about 250million years ago Useful maps: these rocks but you’ll get good views of them. Ordnance Survey Sculpted by ice 1:50000 Landranger 91 Appleby-in-Westmorland 1:25000 Explorer OL19 Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley This landscape also owes much to the action of ice and meltwater. About 20,000 years ago a vast ice sheet British Geological Survey covered the area. It smoothed the hills and valleys, and 1:50000 Geological Sheets 31 (Brough-under-) dumped clay, gravel and boulders. Meltwaters flowing and 30 (Appleby) under and around the ice carved channels and deposited 1:25000 Inlier Classical Areas Map Carboniferous river deltas building out into tropical seas sand and gravel. You’ll see examples of these on this walk. Geology and landscape around Dufton

Red building stone Great Rundale 1 Many buildings in Dufton are made of the local red sandstone, known as the St Bees 7 At a right bend in the track, look up the valley of Great Sandstone. It dates from the Triassic Period, around 250million years ago, and Rundale. The crags at its head are mainly layers of formed from sand deposited in rivers flowing over desert plains. . Below them is an old limekiln Turn right out of the car park. After the left bend in the road turn left to follow a where limestone was burnt to produce lime for improving lane. Follow this for about 500m until you reach a small stream crossing. upland soils. In the 18th and 19th centuries Great Rundale was a busy, industrial place. Adits were driven into the valley sides to work mineral veins for lead ore At fault and, later, barytes. 2 You’re about to walk over a fault — a fracture along which the rocks have moved relative to each other. Here, it is hidden under glacial deposits. It is one of many Go over the stile to your left and descend to another stile. faults along the North Pennine escarpment and separates very different rocks. Turn right to follow a grassy track (from where you get a Behind you are red sandstones; ahead are much older slates and volcanic rocks. superb view up Great Rundale — see right). Continue to a You can see some of these rocks in the walls. The white boulders are fork in the track by a waymarker post. quartz from the sequence of slates and volcanic rocks. View to Knock Pike and Cross Fell 8 Cup-marked On the hillside on your left are patches of scree made of pale, volcanic 3 stone 9 rock. The conical hill ahead is Knock Pike, also made of volcanic rocks. Where the track Its name has ancient origins as it derives from Celtic ‘cnoc’ and Norse G crosses Eller Beck, Cosca Hill r ‘pik’, both meaning ‘hill’. From here you can look north to flat- ea 10 t topped Cross Fell which, at 893m, is the highest hill in the look at the wall on Ru nd Pennine chain. the right. One of the al e stones on top has Be Take the right fork and follow the path down to a ford. ck several small Halsteads e depressions. This al nd intriguing ‘cup- 8 u R 9 Clapper bridge at marked’ stone is probably an example of re Look over the gate prehistoric rock art, carved up to 5,000years ago. G 11 at the clapper bridge Follow the track past Pusgill House to reach over Great Rundale y 7 open hillside. a Beck. Many clapper

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e bridges are thought

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Dufton Pike n to be ancient. The

n 4 The conical hill in front of you is Dufton Pike. Like e slabs are made of P Dufton Pike the other ‘pikes’ along the escarpment it is made limestone, which of slates and must have been volcanic rocks. brought here from You can find 6 the sequence of examples of Carboniferous rocks these rocks in higher up the escarpment. the track. The Don’t go over the bridge but

pale, streaky 5 follow the track uphill and e

rocks are a n round a bend. a

type known L

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as ash-flow i n

tuff, which formed in explosive volcanic r u

eruptions around 450million years ago. H ill Continue round the side of the hill and G 4 us through a gate. Coatsike P Farm Volcanic rocks 5 Through a gateway on the left there’s a 10 Cosca Hill Pusgill The smooth, sweeping slopes of Cosca small field quarry, which was probably House Hill to your left are underlain by glacial once worked for walling stone. These eck Eller B volcanic rocks have been deformed 3 sand and gravel. These and crumpled, unlike the flat-lying were deposited in the Carboniferous rocks that form the last ice age by meltwater skyline hills. 2 flowing through channels under the ice. When the ice melted, the sand and gravel were left as ridges and mounds. Continue until 150m past the derelict farm of Dufton Halsteads. 11 Dufton Microgranite 12 This stretch of wall contains blocks of 1 orange rock. This is the Dufton START Microgranite, which formed 400million P years ago from molten rock. It was Du fto injected into the rocks that now form n Looking ahead along the track you Gh Dufton Pike, and solidified yll can see Brownber Hill, which is made underground. After millions of years of of slates. The white patch near the top erosion it is now exposed. It contains is a quartz vein. The ‘nick’ between crystals of quartz (pale grey and glassy), Brownber Hill and Low Scald Fell (to its feldspar (pinky orange) and mica (silvery and flaky). right) marks the line of a fault. This fault separates 470-million-year-old Continue along the track, an old drove road called Hurning Lane (also the ). 0 250m Go through Coatsike Farm and continue to the west end of Dufton. slates from 330-million-year-old N Carboniferous rocks. Continue for about 150m. For a pleasant short extension… 12 Turn right out of Dufton fountain the car park and 6 Meltwater channels The fountain on the green immediately right Curving around a small hillock was provided by the again to follow a on your right is a glacial London Lead Company in track to nearby meltwater channel. Sinuous 1858. This Quaker-owned Dufton Ghyll, channels like this, which lead mining company which you can formed under ice during the made many explore using the last ice age, are common along improvements to Dufton, many paths. In this wooded gorge there are the escarpment. Just ahead, building houses for cliff faces of St Bees Sandstone, which were the track passes through mining families and once worked for building stone. Look out for another meltwater channel. installing piped water. quarrymen’s tool marks and carved names.