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The PVC Electric Upright Bass by the Beat Catcher 2006 in My Opinion the Only Thing That Is Absolutely Critical in This Desig

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The PVC Electric Upright Bass by the Beat Catcher 2006 in My Opinion the Only Thing That Is Absolutely Critical in This Desig The PVC Electric Upright Bass by the beat catcher 2006 In my opinion the only thing that is absolutely critical in this design is the fingerboard and string length of the bass. This is what gives it some upright bass characteristics. Everything else could be modified to the builder's liking. If you try something different and it works, let me know. This PVC EUB uses nylon strings from traditionmusic.com, but one was built with a length of square steel tubing attached inside the main pipe which should make it strong enough for steel strings, but this has yet to be tested. I suppose gut would work, but why have strings that are more expensive than the bass?!? CAUTION: Be very careful working with PVC. The fumes can be harmful so you should wear the proper mask/ventillator and work in a well ventilated area. The PVC glue can be dangerous so make sure to read the directions carefully. Materials • 4" dia PVC pipe(about 33") • 2" dia PVC pipe (about 8") • 1.5" dia PVC pipe (about 2") • 1.25" dia PVC pipe (about 47") • 2" pipe coupler (1) • 1.25" pipe coupler (1) • 2" pipe cap (1) • 2" to 1.5" pipe reducer (2) • wood 1X2 (about 5") • wood for bridge (0.25" thick) • 0.5" or 0.75" floor flange for iron pipe • 0.5" or 0.75" iron pipe (cut to length for end-pin, about 3') • rubber foot for pipe • compact tuners (preferably large dia shaft) 2 on a side • nylon strings (Hillbilly slap strings) • eyehooks (4) • PVC glue • materials for shoulder brace (optional) • hard plastic fishing rod case (optional) Main Pipe The main pipe is a 47" long piece of 1.25" dia PVC. Fingerboard The fingerboard is made from a 33" long piece of 4" diameter PVC pipe. Measure 1.75" wide at the nut and 3.5" at the bridge end. Make sure they are both centered, so there would be 7/8" on either side of center at the nut, and 1.75" on either side of center at the bridge end. Draw lines connecting the sides of the fingerboard, you should get a trapezoidal shape on the top of the pipe. Cut it out. BE CAREFUL!!! The pipe may want to rotate while you cut it, so go slow and watch your fingers. I used a jigsaw. Headstock Cut a section of 2" pipe 4.75" long. On the nut end, glue a 2" to 1.5" pipe reducer. Next, slide a 2" pipe coupler over the pipe, butt it up against the reducer and glue it into place. (You will need to bore out the stop ring inside the coupler so it fits.) This adds some thickness to the sides for the tuners. Then glue a 2" pipe cap on top. You should have some sort of q-tip looking thing. You will need to cut a "window" out of the center for the strings, about 2" x 5", right past the angle of the pipe reducer. It may be easier to do this before you attach the cap. Stagger the tuners two on each side just like an upright bass. You may need to use "washers" made out of PVC, or you may need to trim down the shaft bolts of the tuners so they fit correctly. Use compact tuners with large diameter shafts (Gotoh makes these now) or compact tuner will work with some aluminum tube extensions. You may need to drill one slot a little bigger for the nylon E string. Inside the small end you will need to insert a ring that is ~0.75" long made out of 1.5" pipe. This acts as a spacer and will need to be bored out so it will fit over the 1.25" main pipe. Glue it on to the main pipe. (If you use large diameter shaft tuners you won't need the tubing that goes across to the other side) Attaching the Fingerboard Bore out the stop ring of a 1.25" pipe coupler and slide it up the end of the main pipe until it reaches the spot where the fingerboard will end. (The nut end will be butted up against the end of the headstock.) This coupler will serve as a spacer to create some angle for the fingerboard. I countersunk 5 screws right up the middle of the fingerboard and screwed it down, taking care not to screw in the middle screws too tightly as it will bow the fingerboard too much, it'll still hold. If you go right up the center the screw heads will be in between the A and D strings. You can try to caulk the screw heads but it is tough to get them flush as the caulk doesn't like to adhere to the PVC, but at least the screw heads become white and not as noticeable. Use fairly large wood screws, #8 or #10. Nut The nut is made out of a scrap piece of 4" dia pipe about 0.75" long and as wide as the fingerboard. It rests on top of the 1.5" end of the reducer on the headstock. You will need to shave down the back some for proper string height. Notch it for the strings. I wouldn't recommend gluing it down. The string pressure will hold it in place and you'll likely need to make many different adjustments. Bridge You will need to make a bridge support. Cut a 4.75" long piece out of a 1X2. The bridge is kind of rainbow shaped as the middle will end up straddling the main pipe. It is about 4" long, 1.5" tall in the center, and mine is made out of 0.25" thick wood. The bridge will be placed about 41"-42" from the nut end of the fingerboard, so this is where the bridge support will need to be inserted. You will need to cut out two square windows so the 1X2 can pass through the main pipe and provide a platform for the bridge, kind of like the hilt of a sword. Put a screw through the back of the main pipe into the bridge support. The feet of the bridge now have something on which to sit. You will need to notch the bridge for the strings and adjust it for string height. You'll probably end up making more than one bridge! End-pin For the end-pin, glue a 1.5" to 2" pipe increaser with a spacer inside the 1.5" end made out of 1.5" pipe that is bored out so it will fit onto the 1.25" dia main pipe. Glue a section of 2" pipe into the 2" side so it is flush. I angled the 2" end so the bass tilts back a little bit, about 5 degrees. Attach a 0.5" or 0.75" floor flange to the bottom, the kind found next to the iron pipes with the threading on the ends. A length of this iron pipe will serve as the end-pin. Measure it to your liking and cut to fit. A good ballpark height is having the nut at about eyebrow level or at the top of your ear. You could also cut one for sitting position. It is also a good idea to put a rubber foot on the pipe. The pipe is relatively cheap if you later decide on different height(s). (You can also use it to beat away the throngs of crazed fans coming at you whilst rocking the PVC EUB.) Shoulder Brace I drilled a hole all the way through the main pipe behind the fingerboard for a shoulder brace. There are probably a million ways to make one, but it's curved and it fits onto a dowel rod (or pipe) that makes about a 60 deg angle with the neck. The hole is about 22" down and the brace extends out about 7". This could be personalized more and the bass is so light that it might not be very necessary. It depends on how you play I guess, how much thumb position you use. Pickup Any pickup that is made for an upright should work fine. Or you can make your own: http://www.fittell.id.au/piezo/ You may need to adjust the bridge accordingly. Case Coincidentally the bass fits into a telescoping black hard plastic case that is made for fishing rods, very sturdy. They make different sizes of these cases, but I've found them at a couple different stores and are usually around $30-$40, might want to do a test fit at home if you're not sure so you can return it promptly. Attaching the Strings Screw in 4 small eye hooks on the main pipe right above the increaser for the end-pin. Try and screw them as close together as possible in order to create a good angle to keep pressure on the bridge. Thread the strings through the eyes and string it up! I used Hillbilly slap strings from traditionmusic.com. They are nylon and used for rockabilly. They will probably need to be trimmed a bit to fit this bass as they are made for an upright bass. It's time to do the final setup. Have fun! .
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