MADEIRA June 2014

MADEIRA endemic landbirds and enigmatic seabirds The Atlantic’s Floating Garden, as Madeira is affectionately known, is blessed with a wonderful spring-like climate, almost year-round. The floral display is at its best in May and June, which is a bonu s for us as this is a great time to see the seabirds for which the islands are famed. The Desertas Islands lie tantalizingly close to the south-east coast of Madeira. The highlight of our trip will be a visit to Deserta Grande, with the rare privilege of staying overnight. From the boat we will scan for Pilot Whales, Bryde’s Whales, dolphins, Desertas Petrels and Cory’s Shearwaters. As nigh t Madeira Firecrest falls the place comes alive with the calls of Cory’s Shearwaters, Bulwer’s Petrels and Madeiran Storm-petrels. Every birdwatcher should try to visit a petrel colony at night at least once, as it is an unforgettable experience. On this tour we visit two! On one night we will be taken by licensed guides to a Zino’s Petrel colony, high on Pico do Arieiro, one of Madeira’s highest peaks. As night falls we can listen to the eerie calls and perhaps glimpse one of the world’s rarest seabirds, which nest here and nowhere else on earth. The system of levada paths allows the visitor to explore magnificent and rugged mountains with relative ease. In a landscape of jagged peaks and waterfalls we can make easy walks along paths that follow the contours of the hills in search of the birds native to the laurel forest. We will be based at the pleasant Royal Orchid Hotel, just east of Funchal, leaving here for one night when we visit Deserta Grande. The low bird diversity on Madeira means that we have planned an easy itinerary. Nevertheless, there will be plenty to occupy us for the week, and during any spare time we can relax or watch for seabirds, whales and dolphins from the hotel grounds. ITINERARY bold white supercilium and has totally different calls. The very distinctive Madeiran Chaffinch is also related to its mainland THE LAUREL FOREST counterpart, and may one day be split as a species in its own Sub-tropical laurel forest covers extensive parts of the north- right. Other species represented by local races include facing slopes, sustained by moisture from the north-east Blackcap, Sparrowhawk, Grey Wagtail and Blackbird. trade winds. Dramatic peaks of extinct volcanoes offer a spectacular backdrop. Amazing vistas remind us of the high Walking the levadas, lined with Madeira Geraniums, we will Andes, and whilst the species diversity is low, almost every have lots of time to enjoy the birds, flowers and insects. The bird we see is either an endemic species or race. only native reptile, the Madeiran Wall Lizard, scurries across rocky outcrops while Madeiran Speckled Wood and Indian Trocaz Pigeons occur only on this one island, in this one Red Admirals flit over sunny glades. The endemic Madeira habitat, making their very existence precarious. Their habitat Cleopatra is attracted to the flowers of the Pride of Madeira, a has been reduced by man’s activities in the past. Happily, spectacular relative of Viper’s Bugloss. We have allowed two today all the remaining laurel forest is protected in the huge mornings for levada walks, and these will be easy walking. Parque Natural. The sprightly Madeira Firecrest is quite The forest at Ribeiro Frio is a delight to visit, whilst the common in the laurel forest as well as inhabiting mountain spectacular Risco waterfall should be on everyone’s itinerary. scrub. Related to the mainland Firecrest, it lacks that species’ PONTA DE SAO LOURENCO The dramatic Sao Lourenco Peninsula juts out from the Peaks of long extinct volcanoes jut up above a sea of cloud. eastern end of Madeira and offers a completely different The amazing sunsets alone are worth coming for. As experience. The basalt rocks have been eroded down to darkness falls we will make our way to the colony, with the become colourful sea-cliffs and bizarrely shaped rock towers. assistance of a licensed guide. We can listen to the wild calls Plain Swifts rip through the air. Berthelot’s Pipits sing from of these rare birds as they return to their colony, and perhaps rocky pinnacles. Rock Sparrows are commoner here than glimpse a bird overhead in the moonlight. elsewhere on the island and Canaries flit from bush to bush. PACE THE DESERTAS ISLANDS The low species diversity means that this will be a relaxed On day five we will visit the Desertas Islands, with the rare trip. Walking on the levadas is mostly flat and very easy. The privilege of staying overnight on Deserta Grande. Our boat is levadas we have chosen are not those infamous ones with the lovely Ventura do Mar and the sailing time from Funchal steep drops and no hand rails. On the Sao Lourenco is three to four hours. The waters between Madeira and the Peninsula the path goes up and down hills, which we will do Desertas are very deep, and upwellings bring nutrients to the at a sensible pace. To visit the Zino’s Petrel colony we have a surface, making it an excellent feeding ground for seabirds. 30 minute walk on a well made path with hand rails, returning in the dark with torches. The night on Deserta Grande is an As we leave Funchal Harbour we should be able to pick out a amazing experience, but you will need a certain spirit of few Roseate Terns. We will soon come across big numbers of adventure. You can sleep on land under the stars or under a Cory’s Shearwaters, forming large rafts on the sea. Further shelter, or on the boat. It should be very mild, and we will out we will see our first Bulwer’s Petrels. Much larger than the provide blankets and a soft mat. storm-petrels, these masters of the air fly effortlessly over the waves. Desertas Petrel, which breeds only on Bugio in the ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Desertas, should be seen in small numbers. We will keep a Full-board accommodation is provided at the Royal Orchid sharp eye out for whales and dolphins, the most frequent Hotel, on the coast just to the east of Funchal. There will be species being Bryde’s Whale, Short-finned Pilot Whale, and one night on Deserta Grande. We will keep our rooms at the Spotted and Bottle-nosed Dolphins. Royal Orchid throughout, so there’s no need to pack and repack, taking just a day/night bag on the boat. The hotel is of We will land in the afternoon and explore the area around the a high standard with en suite bathrooms. wardens’ hut. Perhaps they will show us a Bulwer’s Petrel nesting amongst the boulders, whilst our onboard naturalist PRICE INCLUDES ….. will explain about the efforts to save the Mediterranean Monk All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board Seal. In the evening we will have a barbecue, then wait for accommodation (starting with dinner on 9th , ending with night time, when the air comes alive with the sounds of breakfast on 16 th ), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by nesting seabirds. Cory’s are the most vociferous. Bulwer’s fly mini-bus, two boat trips, reserve entrance fees and guides around in the dark, crashing clumsily into boulders before fees, return flight to Funchal and airport taxes. shuffling into their nests. Madeiran Storm-petrels have a distinctive call, like the sound of rubber shoes on a polished WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED floor. They are common and can been seen fluttering over Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. our heads. Against a backdrop of a billion stars, this is a performance that will live in the memory for a long time. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Eventually we must settle down for the night, and you can Return flights from Leeds/Bradford and Manchester to choose to wrap yourself in a blanket under the stars or return Funchal using the scheduled services of Jet2. Outbound flight to the boat. Next morning we will head back to Funchal. We departs early morning, return flight arrives back late will arrive back in time for lunch, and you can spend the rest afternoon. London flights also available. of the day relaxing or catching up on lost sleep! MORE SEABIRDING 7 nights : 9th to 16 th June 2014 In addition to the Desertas trip, we will do another boat trip later in the week, providing further chances for birds, whales Principal leader: Paul Willoughby and dolphins, plus Loggerhead Turtles. Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader or 12 Our hotel is also perfectly situated for watching the sea. On clients with two leaders the occasional free afternoon you can look out for pods of Cost with discount dolphins, the blow of a Bryde’s Whale, or a seabird feeding (if you book before frenzy which may contain a rare Barolo’s (Little) Shearwater. 24 th February 2014): £1860 per person sharing One final seabird deserves a special mention. In 1903, Full Cost: £1960 per person sharing naturalist Ernesto Schmitz obtained a specimen of a petrel in Madeira. It was almost forgotten about for the next 80 years. Single supplement: £220 Local man Alec Zino took it upon himself to refind, then protect, the nesting grounds. The Zino’s Petrel or Freira de Deposit: £300 Madeira, is now fully protected and his son, Frank Zino, runs the Freira Conservation Project. .

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