VARANGER – ARCTIC Thursday 26th May to Thursday 2nd June 2016

TOUR OVERVIEW

The Varanger peninsula offers some of the best bird watching in the world, and to couple this with stunning landscapes and seascapes within the Arctic Circle, a visit to this iconic destination becomes irresistible to both birders and nature lovers. By late May the spring thaw is in full swing and bird activity is at its height. Migrant waders and waterfowl moving further into the arctic congregate in large flocks competing for food with locally breeding Temminck’s Stint and Red-necked Phalarope. The sheltered bays host sea duck and divers a plenty, whilst offshore large seabird colonies can be approached by boat giving access to the much sought after Brunnich’s Guillemot. Nearby the open is home to Long-tailed Skuas, Rough-legged Buzzards, Snow and Lapland Buntings plus the exquisite Red- throated Pipit. As if this was not enough, Varanger is an incredibly scenic place to visit with an appeal amplified by it being the last true wilderness in Europe. Furthermore avian rarities such as White-billed Diver and both King and Steller’s Eider can linger well into June bringing further interest. The area is home to Reindeer and Elk who eak a living from the bleak but beautiful tundra landscape. Wild flowers include a number of orchids, and some will be in bloom bringing a blessing of colour to the stark fell and rock slopes.

PHOTOGRAPHIC OPPORTUNITIES: The Varanger peninsula is home to abundant wildlife, in particular birds, and many of the species approach closely. This includes sought after species such as skuas, sea duck, and the many breeding waders such as Temminck’s Stint plus particularly confiding Snow Buntings and Red-throated Pipits. Expect many opportunities for good photos.

BIRD LIST: The area is very rich in tundra and sea birds, and many are common. Some on the other hand are much rarer, for example Gyr Falcon and we would be fortunate (but not lucky) to see one. Red-throated Diver, Black-throated Diver, White-billed Diver, Bean Goose, King Eider, Steller’s Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Smew, Goosander, White-tailed Eagle, Rough- legged Buzzard, Gyr Falcon, Willow Grouse, Ptarmigan, Capercaillie, Temminck’s Stint, Little Stint, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff (including some spectacular leks), Broad-billed Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope, both Arctic and Long-tailed Skua, Glaucous and Iceland Gull, Brunnich’s Guillemot plus all the common auks sometimes in spectacular numbers, Hawk Owl, Short-eared Owl, Three-toed Woodpecker, Shore Lark, Red-throated Pipit, Waxwing, Bluethroat (red-spotted common), Siberian Tit, Siberian Jay, both Common and Arctic Redpoll, Pine Grosbeak, Little, Snow and Lapland Buntings.

MAMMALS: Reindeer are notable amongst the mammals, and these can be seen roaming the fens and mires throughout the Arctic. Amongst the most common mammals are Red Fox, Mountain (Arctic) Hare, Pine Marten, and Elk. The small seed eating mammals form the basis of the food chain in this part of the world and dominant amongst these is the Norway Lemming which favours the tundra fells and is well known for the cyclical nature of its population. This results in good breeding seasons followed by less good ones for Arctic predators such as Rough-legged Buzzards, skua’s and the owls who rely on them. The Brown Bear is also possible, at this time of year just waking after the long winter hibernation, but we would need to be lucky to spot one, and similarly with Wolverine which also occurs in the area. Much more likely is an encounter with an Otter, or even a whale such as Orca is possible. Seals include the restricted Harp Seal, as well as Harbour and Ringed Seals

EASE AND PACE: An eight day tour slowly exploring this Arctic paradise. Arctic Norway is a vast area, but we will restrict ourselves closely to the bird rich coast and hinterland of the Varanger peninsula. This long inlet stretches inland westwards bringing seabirds further inland than expected where they lie juxtaposed with terrestrial gems. We will use three bases, driving out each day in search of wildlife. Drives will consequently be short on a daily basis, averaging just over 100 miles per day, allowing plenty of opportunities to spend time out in the field to experience this marvellous area. With long daylight hours, early starts are not needed, though we can expect up to 12 hours in the field though this will be done at a leisurely pace with plenty of breaks. Road are generally of good quality.

ACCOMMODATION: Accommodation will be in twin bed rooms, with en suite facilities on a half board basis. Our first day will be a travelling one from the UK and should we arrive early evening as expected, we will stay near to the airport for night one. Moving on, the next night will be in Vadso, followed by two in Vardo before retracing our steps back towards Vadso. The last two nights south of Kirkenes, is in more forested terrain, which will increase our chances of rarer passerines. Lunch time food will generally be of the packed lunch variety thus maximising our chances in the field. Meals included in the tour price start on 26th with an evening meal on arrival in Kirkenes and end at breakfast on 2nd June.

WEATHER & CLOTHING: Early June is springtime in the Arctic, so those long and cold winter nights will have gone. By the time of our visit hours of daylight are long, almost 24 hours in fact! and temperatures are beginning to rise with daily highs up to a balmy 10 to 12 C. The influence of the sea plus the long daylight hours means daily fluctuations are small and the average daily low is only 5c so it should be frost free even at night. Nevertheless, snow will still be present on surrounding fells, and we will spend the bulk of our time in littoral environments so we need to be prepared with full UK winter clothing. Walking boots are essential. All seasons in can occur in the same day in !

Our visit is early in the season so mosquitoes will not be a problem.

PRICE: The price is £1675 per person, to include all guiding and travel in Norway, half board accommodation (bed, breakfast and evening meal). Not included are your drinks during the day and from the bar and lunchtime snacks which can be bought from local shops or as a packed lunch from the hotels (ordered on the previous evening). Expect to pay about £300 for the scheduled flight to Norway. Scandinavia as a whole, and Norway in particular, has a high cost of living, but we believe this tour offers exceptional value for money considering the high standard of accommodation provided.

GROUP SIZE: The tour will proceed with 5 group members plus a Birding Abroad leader, and maximum group size will be 12 including two leaders.

ITINERARY:

Day 1: fly to Kirkenes (Norway)

Our outward flight leaves from London Heathrow arriving at Kirkenes at 20.00. This small town lies 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle and is also a long way east, as far east in fact as Istanbul! Our evening arrival dictates that it is sensible and convenient to stay overnight in the rather classy Scandic Hotel just 11 miles from the airport.

Day 2: Kirkenes sits on a peninsula along the Bokfjorden, an arm of Varanger Fiord itself. We will all be keen to be on our way, so after an early breakfast we head westwards out of town following the E6, traversing an ancient and unspoiled landscape whose habitats change as we travel along from fells and bare rounded hills to impenetrable mires, from bogs and fens to low birch scrub and later to rivers and lakes before we finally hit the coast of Varanger Fiord. The peninsula itself is surprisingly flat with no high mountain peaks, but there are long rounded ridges separated by broad river valleys. Short stops in each habitat zone will showcase what birds we can expect throughout the trip. Open treeless fells and tundra harbour birds associated with the arctic, so Bluethroat, Long-tailed Skua, Snow and Lapland Bunting can be expected. Rivers and lakes host nesting ducks such as Goosander, Goldeneye and Smew, whilst riverside birches and willows hold Common Redpoll and perhaps an early Arctic Warbler if we are very lucky. Mires and bogs hold Willow Grouse, Common Crane and perhaps a Broad-billed Sandpiper or Jack Snipe. Once on the fiord itself it all changes again as we search for sea duck offshore and marvel at the profusion of migrant and breeding waders which huddle around sheltered bays. Overhead the mighty White-tailed Eagle is lord of the skies.

Red-spotted Bluethroat

At Varangerbotn, the E6 continues westwards, but we leave it here and venture into town to explore the shallow estuary at the very head of the fiord. Large flocks of waders can be expected including summer plumaged Red Knot, whilst Bluethroat are regular in the nearby scrub. Good views can be obtained from the two hides near the museum. Now following the E75 east we begin our journey along the famous north side of Varanger fiord firstly towards . This small settlement sits on a small peninsula, itself a noted hotspot for seabirds in easterly winds. The bays either side are good for Bar-tailed Godwits, here in stunning summer plumage as well as Common and Velvet Scoter and close Arctic Terns are a delight. A nearby pool will host many Red-necked Phalaropes and we will pause a while to take in their exquisite beauty. All around grassy banks may hold lekking Ruff and perhaps a loafing Bean Goose. As we progress further on towards Vadso, constant scanning can produce both Glaucous and Iceland Gulls, though these species, like many others, can be found throughout the area, and it would not be outrageous to discover a White-billed Diver for our efforts. night Vadso Scandic Hotel

Red-necked Phalarope, good views are guaranteed

Day 3: The small fishing port of Vadso is well blessed with birds. Any track heading inland away from the coast leads straight into tundra where species such as Arctic and Long-tailed Skua, Bluethroat, Dotterel, Ptarmigan and Willow Grouse occur whilst the pools hold Red- throated Divers. Vadso Island connected to mainland by a causeway, hosts breeding Red- throated Pipits and Temminck’s Stint, whilst the bay could produce all three species of eider. The bays here are famous for their wintering Steller’s and King Eider, and it is well worth a look into June for regular individuals which stay all summer. Next along the way is Ekkeroy Island where massive colonies of Kittiwakes and auks nestle on 50 metre high cliffs. Black Guillemot is common and Brunnich’s are seen regularly from here. With all this prey, White- tailed Eagles, perhaps Rough-legged Buzzard and even a rare Gyr Falcon could appear at any moment. This interesting island is also connected to the mainland by a causeway, and its varied habitats include marshes and pools where close views of Purple Sandpiper and Lapland Bunting could be gained and offshore all four species of skua have been noted.

A large number of vagrants have been recorded at Varanger, so our constant scanning may well produce additions to a list already including Spectacled Eider, Harlequin Duck, Little Bustard, Stilt Sandpiper and White-winged Lark!

Our hotel tonight is the Vardo Hotel. Long-tailed Skua, expect good views of these sought after birds

Day 4: Each morning, weather permitting, a boat runs from Vardo harbour to the nearby Hornoy Island where the cliffs have a full set of nesting seabirds including Black Guillemot, Shag, Puffin, thousands of Guillemot, Razorbill and more notably lesser numbers of Brunnich’s Guillemot. The journey time is only 15 minutes and landing is possible. A narrow footpath reaches into the island providing close views of the birds and splendid photographic opportunities. Hornoy is possibly the easiest place to see Brunnich’s in the whole of Europe. Meanwhile Vardo is the best place in Europe to seek out Steller's and King Eiders. A few thousand always winter, but mostly move off through April and May, though a few remain most summers and we hope to connect with these. Later we move to Sandfjord where willow scrub hosts breeding Arctic (rare) and Common Redpolls, as well as Redwing and Brambling, whilst en route Rough-legged Buzzard is likely. A detour to is recommended, but it will take us quite a while to cover the 40 or so km, as we admire the spectacular scenery en route and as we search for rarer divers amongst the sea duck. Roadside stops will be frequent for Snow Buntings and White-tailed Eagles and also to watch breeding Wood Sandpipers and Temmincks Stint along the way. Hamningberg is where the road ends and the rocky point is a great place to watch passing seabirds which can include Pomarine Skua and thousands of Fulmars, many of which will be blue ones. It is in fact one of the best locations for observing rare seabirds, and large counts of White-billed Divers and Pomarine and Long-tailed Skua’s have been obtained earlier in May, so you never know....

All too soon we will have to retrace our steps back towards Vardo, but not before checking bays for flocks of scoter, rarer eider and divers, Common Eider and Goosander. night Vardo Hotel

Brunnich’s Guillemot (by Morten Gunther)

Day 5: Today we must begin our journey back to towards the head of the fiord and re-tracing our steps gives us a chance to revisit all the best places we looked at on the way out. We will be on the lookout for migrant geese of several species and though Bean is the most likely, others could include White-front, Pink-foot and Barnacle. Nearing Nesseby, gulls should be checked more carefully for amongst the throng the occasional Iceland is often present as well as the more frequent Glaucous. night Vadso Scandic Hotel

Day 6: Today we leave the fabulous Varanger Fiord, firstly heading back toward Kirkenes and then striking southwards into the hidden gem that is the Pasvik Valley. This is a southerly extension of Norway that is wedged between Finland to the west and Russia to the east. It has extensive forests, often pine, but also willow scrub, plus bogs and mires of which a large part is ensconced within the Ovre Pasvik National Park. The river often forms the boundary with Russia. The taiga in this part of the world has four key tree species, Siberian Spruce, Scots Pine, Downy and Silver Birch. We will search amongst these forests for taiga birds: Siberian Jay, Siberian Tit, Pine Grosbeak, Hawk Owl, Willow Grouse, Capercaillie, Three-toed Woodpecker and Parrot Crossbill whilst village meadows support a few breeding Little Buntings and the mires a few breeding Broad-billed Sandpipers and Jack Snipe but these are most active at night. A viewing tower overlooks one of the lakes where Smew, Bean Geese and Little Gull are likely. More familiar waders such as Wood Sandpiper, here on their breeding grounds and exhibiting display behaviour, will add much interest. We will check likely areas of birch for Arctic Warblers, but they are late to arrive and uncommon before even the third week of June.

Night Pasvik Valley, Svanhovd Bioforst Centre Three-toed Woodpecker (by Morten Gunther)

Day 7: There is but a single road in the Pasvik Valley and today we head to the southern most part around Nyrud. This wild and remote area is only 50 km from our accommodation, but offers the best chances for Little Bunting and Siberian Tit often seen around the settlements. The adjacent Ovre Pasvik National Park has produced Northern Hawk Owl on occasion, so we will no doubt chance our luck and investigate. Short-eared Owl much more likely as is Spotted Redshank in all its breeding finery. The most common birds of prey are Rough-legged Buzzard and Merlin, and the most frequent owl is Northern Hawk Owl though Great Grey is an exciting possibility. Night Pasvik Valley, Svanhovd Bioforst Centre

Day 8: last quick look around our accommodation then to airport, from where our flight leaves Kirkenes at 11.30 arriving Oslo 13.35 then leaving Oslo 15.05 to London arriving 16.25 (5 hours total).

Thanks to Morten Gunther for allowing us to use some of his photographs

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