The Beautiful Islands Second section

Fishing — Dive — Sailboat CHARTERS Good times — Good rates ROSS & GANGES MARINE & EQUIPMENT LTD. At Harbour's End Marina 537-4202

Let them eat cake...

...and fresh muffins delicious brownies rich copenhagens wholesome bagels mocha cakes flakey turnovers spicey sausage rolls

Ganges Harbour is one of 16 resting spots for Gulf Island boaters and, of course, bread — multigrain, French, sandwich, rye, brown — you name it! Sheltered coves, harbours offer safe refuge for sailors, vessels garbage. EMBE BAKERY Boating in the waters of the dian government and available at offers visitors an most harbours. Geographically, it As the cruise continues up the "Quality baking fresh daily" opportunity to follow the wake of covers the entire west coast of Strait, the sailor reaches the early explorers, as well as the B.C.) island's north end, where the chance to see out-of-the-way Following is a rundown of the North Galiano wharf contains coves and scenes which the harbours offering shelter in the berthage space. The sailor can land-locked traveller would miss. Gulf Islands: then swing down Trincomali Open 4 am - 5.30 pm Ganges, B.C. Throughout the islands, 16 • At Galiano, the sailor can go harbours offer refuge as well as around the island and never be Turn to Page 26 some amenities of life for the far from a haven. At the south sailors. The harbours are run by end of Active Pass, Sturdies Bay Transport Canada or the depart­ contains 48 metres of berth space ment of fisheries and oceans, as well as a derrick for boat through its small craft harbours repairs. The bay sits close to the branch. commercial centre of the island. (A complete listing of harbours Rounding Gossip Island and and services can be found in the moving into the Strait of Georgia Guide to Federal Fishing and brings the sailor to Whaler Bay, Recreational Harbours: British which offers 185 metres of wharf Columbia, published by the Cana­ space and a chance to dispose of

SUNSHINE FARM Cozy, Comfortable, Character! FOODS Come and stay with us at Delight in our Natural Honey FULFORD INN ICECREAM at the head of the harbour Best Ice Cream in Town! and enjoy old-fashioned island hospitality! And try our Natural Nectar Pies. For a large variety of grains, teas, herbs, vitamins (20% off * Modern hotel with fully appointed rooms. vitamins to seniors!), bakery, dairy & soy products come to * English-style pub—super food—entertainment most weekends. Open daily 11 am to 1 am. SUNSHINE FARM * Blue Heron Dining Room—cocktails, patio, children's selections, NATURAL FOODS open daily summer long. Open 9-5:30 Mon.-Sat. at the foot of Ganges Hill For reservations call now— Your Gulf Islands Natural Foods Store dedicated to our customers' health. FULFORD INN — 653-4432 Page 26 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986

Sailing ships bob in waters of Whaler Bay on . Port offers docking space on nearby wharf, plus several other spots on island's coastline where boats can tie up.

si':

yi»m»''>*m>. FLIPPER'S WATER SPORTS

SALES * RENTALS LESSONS

Throughout the Guff Islands Windsurfing * Ocean Kayaking Wondering what to do with your summer guests? Why not try windsurfing, ocean kayaking, Harbours await marine traffic canoeing or aqua-bike From Page 25 bour. The harbour is close to a Further north on Stuart Chan­ 9-6, 7 days a week Ph. 537-5773 Channel to Retreat Cove, which ' small commercial wharf and con­ nel, the visitor reaches Vesuvius provides 49 metres of berthage tains 124 metres of wharf and Bay. The ferry from Vancouver space. berth space. Island stops here, and the wharf Further south is Montague • Heading out from Saturna, the offers 29 metres of space. Harbour, another commercial sailor navigates Plumper Sound The trip continues up Stuart centre on Galiano. At that haven, to Haro Strait and runs across Channel for a swing through Fernwood Farm tucked in behind Parker Island, Swanson Channel to Fulford Har­ Houston Passage and onto Trin- the berthage space extends for bour on Salt Spring. At the head comali Channel. South of the 'Where Harkema lamb is born and raised.' 103 metres. of the bay, a small commercial passage, Fernwood dock contains • A trip through Active Pass, centre awaits. The harbour offers 24 metres of space. Pasture & grain finished to ensure delicate flavour. separating Galiano and Mayne 73 metres of space at one wharf, The cruise continues sou­ Available by the half or whole carcass, or cut, Islands, brings the sailor to Mines where garbage can be disposed thwards down Trincomali Chan­ wrapped & frozen to your precise instructions. Bay, which is close to the com­ and fresh water is available, and nel until the sailor reaches Cap­ mercial centre of Mayne and 12 metres of space at a second tain Passage, between Salt Spring provides 47 metres of wharf and and Prevost islands. That water­ berthage space. way leads to Ganges Harbour. • At , the sailor can 'Harbours offer Ganges, the main commercial begin at Port Washington on centre for the Gulf Islands, offers Swanson Channel. Port Wash, as refuge as well as three government wharves for v it is known locally, contains 112 moorage. Salt Spring Islannd • ^_i V. metres of docking space and a slip some amenities of The boat basin is protected by a for launching boats. The port also life for the sailors.' breakwater and contains 653 Lamb at its Best! ^^S\ offers an aircraft float. metres of boat space. The wharf Continuing around the south is also the location of the Salt end of North Pender Island, the wharf. Spring fishing fleet. JAN & LOUISE HARKEMA 537-2963 sailor encounters Bedwell Har­ The sailor can now set a course On the other arm of har­ bour. Canada Customs does busi­ for Satelling Channel, running bour, two government wharves ness here, and travellers will find across the south end of Salt offer 77 metres of space. 50 metres of berthage space, with Spring and swinging up to Mus- Although the harbours are the area being protected by a grave Landing. The cove is isolat­ government-run, the visitor is For all your breakwater. ed but offers up to 30 metres of advised that space may be at a A short distance north and wharf and berth space. premium. summer needs . . . through the canal which separ­ As the trip continues up San- Be advised also that Active ates North and South Pender, the sum Narrows, the sailor encoun­ Pass offers potential dangers to sailor arrives at Browning Har­ ters Burgoyne Bay on the star­ the unwary sailor. Ferries play bour and a wharf containing 50 board side. Burgoyne shelters a the pass frequently — they have For all the family, all summer. metres of berth space. log-sorting operation and the the right-of-way — and sports • From Browning Harbour, the visitor is advised to exercise fishermen generally crowd either sailor sets out for caution. The wharf provides 21 end of the pass in pursuit of a and the facilities at Lyall Har­ metres of space. catch. • Toys •Clothing for the best in • Footwear HOME-COOKED MEALS and • Salt Spring FINE ACCOMMODATION T-shirts Come and see us at...

COFFEE SHOP • FULLY LICENSED DINING ROOM Mouat's y ' We serve Lamb . . . and fresh homemade pies! Top Floor We cater to • BANQUETS • SPECIAL OCCASIONS LOCATED IN DOWNTOWN GANGES 537-5593 Open 7:30 am-8 prm daily "S ~c* Ganges Rita Dods, prop. Box 272, Ganges, B.C. 537-5338 * X.C r. .• ttttt* r.'fj'j*.' nniiMtlom i a £ t I .1 .J...T. x .\..* . , . . . • •• *• *• «• " •* *- • ' =

The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 27 Motorists, hills and dogs wait for cycle tourists

Cyclists touring the Gulf just as any other user of the road. Islands can expect to encounter come difficulties with dogs, mot­ Show courtesy for motorists, orists and hilly terrain. With a Preparation, precaution can help overcome obstacles even if it sometimes isn't re­ little preparation and precaution, turned. Road etiquette begins as soon as you depart the ferry — however, the tour can be enjoya­ Still with hills, cyclists attempt­ and control the descent by judici­ chase you, in which case the best cyclists should pull out of the ble. ing an ascent are advised to pull ous use of the brakes. course of action is to stay friendly, traffic lanes and allow the vehi­ Let's start with the terrain. An off the road as far to the right as On gravel — and you'll find dismount and keep the bicycle cles leaving the ferry to pass. abundance of steep hills means possible if they must dismount. plenty — never stand up on the between you and the dog as you the visitor should use a multi- Never weave up a high hill; if you bike. Remain seated; otherwise, slowly walk away. One final pointer: if camping is speed bicycle which offers a must tackle the incline, pedal the back wheel may skid. Down­ As for motorists, the best tactic to be part of the tour, the cyclist is range of low-gear ratios. Use of a slowly to maintain breath and hill can be tricky; use the rear is tolide the bike as near to the well advised to make use of single-speed or three-speed bike strength. brakes only to prevent a skid. right-hand side of the road as panniers — bags attacked to the will mean walking up a lot of Coming down steep hills, set Dogs present another potential possible, and keep in single file. bicycle — rather than to load those hills. the gear ratio to match the speed hazard. Some may decide to Cyclists must obey traffic laws everything into a packsack.

On Gulf Islands Large selection of Artist & Craft Several good cycle tours available Supplies The Gulf Island provides beau­ ing view of the Strait of Georgia, ty and scenic splendour for most and on clear days, a spectacular Marsim travellers. For cyclists, however, view of Mount Baker. the undulating and wooded ter­ The tour starts at the ferry Craft & Gift Shop rain may provide headaches and terminal at Lyall Harbour and McPhillips Ave., Ganges sore muscles. continues along the northern half Serving 537-2823 The Bicycling Association of of the island to East Point. The the B.C. warns cyclists venturing to main road does not offer a circle Open Gulf the Gulf Islands to be prepared route so the rider must backtrack daily for hilly, narrow roads and drivers to return to Lyall Harbour. Islands who are not used to heavy cycling Again, there are no designated traffic. camping areas or provincial parks The biggest complaint coming so cyclists are advised to make from drivers concerns large the Saturna tour a one-day trip. groups of cyclists who insist on • A bridge links the canal riding four abreast. With narrow between North and South Pender roads being a common feature on Islands to provide a 26 mile (41.8 island roads, cyclists are warned kilometre) tour. From the Otter to ride as near to the right side of Bay ferry terminal, cyclists BRINKWORTHY PLACE the pavement as possible, and to | l< should head south on the east proceed in single file. TWk side of the island and make for AN ADDRESS OF DISTINCTION The association also advises Bedwell Harbour on South Pen­ cyclists to wear helmets and to w*? der Island. We are well on the way to creating one of the very best Adult carry water, as island touring is Public camping is provided at Mobile Home Parks on Western Canada, right here on Salt very arduous. ¥ Prior Centennial Park on North Spring Island. Because island cyclists face Pender, halfways along the route. We offer a green and sunny enclave with all the benefits of a potential hazards like narrow On South Pender, Beaumont Pro­ luxurious and convenient lifestyle. roads, high hills, blind curves, vincial Marine Park provides We would be pleased to show you our sparkling little display logging and cement trucks, heavy camping facilities — but cyclists homes on site now. traffic (on some islands) and are out of luck on this one as the Or, should you wish, you can special order a modular home dogs, the islands are recommend­ campground is accessible by wat­ and move into it within approximately five weeks. ed for experienced bicyclists and Hide single-file er only. Leave a message at our office phone or call Jock in the should not be used as a training Cyclists are warned to watch evenings. ground by novices. out for the cracks that can grab For those sturdy types who which is quite steep for the first wheels on the linking bridge. don't mind a little leg strain and a two miles. The return trip is Also, the terrain is relatively 135 Brinkworthy Rd. few hills, however, the islands better, but good brakes are hilly, with a very steep downhill call Jock (eves) can provide a good tour. essential for the steep decline. ride to Bedwell Harbour. And Office on site: 537-4041 537-5089 • Galiano Island offers a circular Campbell Bay, on the north end there is only one main route on route of about 45 miles (72.4 of the island, affords a good view the island so riders must head kilometres), starting from the of adjacent islands, but some back the same way. Sturdies Bay ferry terminal, pro­ access roads to the bay are gravel • Although Salt Spring Island, ceeding north on Porlier Pass and and make for difficult travel for which offers a circle route of back again. The terrain is very cyclists. about 62 miles (99.8 kilometres), hilly, especially during the first There are no provincial parks can be travelled in one day, two few miles from Sturdies Bay. for camping so cyclists are ad­ days are needed to fully explore Chocolates... Camping facilities are avialable vised to plan a day trip only to the area. at Montague Provincial Park, . The roads are very hilly — the which is about six miles from the • Saturna Island offers a northern first five miles leaving Ganges and nice things Sturdies Bay ferry terminal and route of about 21 miles (33.8 towards Fulford are a steady about a quarter mile from the kilometres), which gives a sweep­ Turn to Page 28 From fresh roasted coffee beans to Montague Harbour ferry termin­ al. Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries we're a • Mayne Island offers a northern Out hauling — Grids — Ways shopping experience you can't miss. tour of the island, from the Village Bay ferry terminal to Bottom painting at reasonable rates Horton Bay. Again, the terrain is quite hilly, especially along the ROSS & GANGES MARINE & EQUIPMENT LTD. We feature Harlan's prize-winning, road from the ferry landing, At Harbour's End Marina 537-4202 homemade chocolates— famous coast to coast.

The CMet Try us. We're awfully sweet. ^>eo &-?>reakfast House

The peaceful getaway on Salt Spring Island • Comp 2, Cusheon Lake Rd. R.R.2, Ganges, B.C. VOS 1E0 Silks * China * Jewellery * Gifts Pfone: 537-4033 Downtown Ganges Page 28 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 j All islands J offer good m- cycle tours From Page 27 incline — and winding, which leaves many blind spots. Salt Spring Island traffic is also heav­ ier than on the other islands. In some parts the roads are pretty narrow, but a paving project to be completed in early summer will widen the main road — Fulford-Ganges — by a few feet to make riding more comfort­ able and safer. On the southern part of the island, around Fulford Bay, some roads are gravel and difficult to Cycling will become serious in June when B.C. championships are held on Salt Spring ride. Repair shops scarce tfltott Check bikes before touring islands

Western Cyclogical in Ganges if not, consideration should be The bicycle has many moving is the only bicycle repair shop in given to replacements. Check the parts. Regular lubrication and the Gulf Islands. The store also tires for cuts and nicks, and make cleaning will keep them running provides rental of all types of sure the air pressure is correct for smoothly — and longer. bikes, as does the Morningside the wheel size. Refer to the Look for at the front and rear Store in Fulford. owner's manual for the proper hub bearings, steering head bear­ Bicycle rentals are also availa­ pressure for the tire size. ings and the front and rear ble on the Penders at Otter Bay While looking at the wheels, derailleurs. Bicycle Rentals at the_Otter Bay make sure the spokes are tight Other moveable parts to lubri­ Box 216, Ganges, Salt Spring Island, B.C. VOS 1E0 Marina, and at Bedwell Harbour and that none are missing. Check cate include the crank set bear­ Resort on South Pender. the axle nut to make sure it's also ings and the pedal bearings, the Telephone (604) 537-5571 tight. brake and shift controls and Since the Gulf Islands contains Brakes should stop they bicycle cables, and the brake pivot bush­ only one bicycle repair business, — take care to ensure they're ings. • Seaview restaurant open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner self-reliance is the rule for visitors properly adjusted and replace touring local roads. Bicycles should also carry re­ • Catering and banquet facilities brake pads that are worn out. flectors as well as a light for night • Cocktail lounge open 7 nights a week Check the brake cable for signs of With that in mind, the cyclist riding. Front reflectors should be • Tavern open 7 nights a week with entertainment fraying, kinking or sticking. planning a tour of the Gulf Islands white, while rear reflectors • Garden terrace with harbour view for meals is well advised to take some basic The ideal adjustment for the should be red. Side reflectors, • Twenty tastefully decorated rooms with ensuite facilities precautions before starting out. brakes occurs when a minimum usually mounted on the wheels, For starters, have the bicycle movement of the lever brings the should be white or amber on the (10 with harbour view & balconies) checked by a competent repair­ blocks into contact with the rim of front wheels and white or red on • Colour TV and First Choice programming man to ensure it's in top condi­ the wheel. Don't adjust the the rear wheels. • Within walking distance of the town of Ganges tion. brakes so closely that the blocks Cyclists are also advised to use touch the rim when the brake safety flags and reflective tape. For the do-it-yourselfer, the lever is off. examination should begin with the handlebars. Make sure The chain requires about three- they're straight, tight and at the eights of an inch play in order to correct height. Tighten the han­ run smoothly; if more play is dlebar nuts and make sure the there the chain may fall off at an hand grips are secure. The only way to fly. inopportune time. Check it for Tires should have a good tread; damaged or weak links. Salt Spring Island's COMPLETE Automotive Service Centre

flUTOPRO

MUFFLER SERVICE BRAKES •TUNE-UPS

BEAR TELATRONIC FRONT END ALIGNMENT Daily float plane service from Vancouver to the islands

Ganges Auto Marine HARBOUR AIR LTD. For reservations call Park Drive, Ganges (behind Upper Ganges Centre) Harbour Air is co-located with Air B.C. 1-800-972-0212 537-9221 terminal 3 blocks east of Bayshore ' The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 29 Shellfish search starts gathering with closure information Those with a culinary taste for the Booth Inlet, Duck Bay, Fer- shellfish could find a haven in the nwood Point, Walker Hook, and leads to... Gulf Islands. However, while the Vesuvius Bay regions on Salt region offers a multitude of Spring Island; Hope Bay and Seeking shellfish in the Gulf shellfish for picking, harvesters Thieves Bay in North Pender; Islands can be as enjoyable as the are warned that consumption of Skull Inlet reef to the Hay Point feast which follows the harvest. contaminated bivalve molluscs area in South Pender; and some Following are a few pointers for (e.g. oysters, mussels and clams) regions of Burgoyne Bay, Ganges shellfish sleuths: can cause serious illness. Harbour, Fulford Harbour and • Clams seek shelter in tidal flats The two chief sources of conta­ Long Harbour on Salt Spring and show a vertical motion. They mination are paralytic shellfish Island. For specific areas, consult don't move from home except to (PSP), or red tide, and human the guide. rise to the top of the sand or to dig sewage. In the Gulf Islands Additional closure areas not deep to avoid detection. region, the red tide warning has listed in the guide are Bird's Eye Armed with a shovel, rake or been lifted this year but harves­ Cove in area 18 and Willy Island, pitchfork, the shellfish-seeker ters are advised to check with the near Crofton, in area 17. Again, must prowl local beaches for local fisheries office since the harvesters are advised to check signs of clams. Once found, all condition is subject to change. with the local fisheries office for that's left is harvesting. Sewage contamination areas updates. Clams can be kept up to 24 are listed in the 1985-86 B.C. Fisheries offices can .be re­ hours by soaking them in salt Tidal Waters Sport Fishing Gui­ ached at 746-6221 (Duncan); 754- water. Care should be taken to de, available at fisheries offices, 0235 (Nanaimo); and 388-3252 ensure that the clams have room most sporting goods stores and at (Victoria). Call during normal to breathe. tourist information centres. Gulf office hours. By changing the water every Islands closures are listed in the Red tide updates are available eight hours, the clams can be kept guide under areas 17 and 18. by calling the Sport Fishing alive until the feast begins. Generally, sewage contamina­ Information office between 8 am Which brings us to a good tion closure areas are located in and 4 pm, at 666-0383 or 666- question: how to tell a live clam the waters and tidal foreshore of 0583, or the 24-hour line at from a dead one? Montague Harbour on Galiano; 666-3169. If the shell is gaping or partially open, there's a good chance the clam is dead. The ones which don't survive should be discard­ COASTAL CRUISING COMPANY ed. GULF ISLAND TOURS BY AIR AND SEA Fresh-water soaking of clams robs them of flavour. If fresh for reservations & enquiries call water is to be used, add one-third cup of salt to each gallon of water. HARBOUR AIR LTD. As feast time approaches, the (Vancouver) 688-1277 clams must be schucked. Open or the shells and cut the clam away. ADMIRAL'S Snip off the neck and put the clam CRUISE .... *250 ISLAND ADVENTURES aside to begin the process on the 537-4434 next one. REAR ADMIRAL'S Clams can be baked or Dual purpose CRUISE .... *200 steamed. To steam clams, put COMMODORE'S about two inches of water in a pan Island beaches may be fertile you're off scouring the tide line, CRUISE .... *150 and add the clams. When the ground for shellfish, but don't kids can pass their time building clams are cooked, the shells will forget their basic uses — while dreams. open. At that point, add butter and lemon — and enjoy. • The best times to seek oysters are during the cooler months. In summer, oysters go through a reproducting cycle and tend to be less than flabourful. Oysters are found in bays and backwaters where the current does not move too swiftly. They attach themselves to a clean, hard Turn to Page 30

GAS, FEED GROCERIES LOTTERY VIDEOS IS JUST NEWSSTAND EXPO 86 THE BEGINNING The adventure continues with BC Ferries. Fares are so reasonable. Voyages so We make it easy to connect with the sights, memorable. And the time is ripe. Come see the sounds and sensations of so many of Canada's sights soon. We're waiting to Pattersons West Coast locations. welcome you aboard.

Store Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. SO MANY SAILINGS! The Sunshine Coast and the Queen Charlotte Our complete EXPO 86 SEASON SCHEDULE Islands. Early season savings on the fabled is full of frequent-sailing information, from May 1 to October 13! Inside Passage cruise. Pick your pleasure, Pick up yours at terminals, aboard ships then sail with us. or at BC Ferries offices. FULFORD

Your South-End Convenience 0 BCFGRRIGS I Store Page 30 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Visitors must be wary of contaminated shellfish From page 29 object and stay there for the instrument is needed. remainder of their lives. Shucking oysters requires ex­ Look for the oysters in inter- pertise as well. Get a schucking tidal zones — that is, between the knife and glove. high and low tide lines. Hold the oyster firmly in the If the oysters are crowded, they gloved hand, slip the knife bet­ stand on end with only the hinge ween the shell, and twist. attached. The oyster can be fried, broiled When oysters are thinly placed, or cooked in other ways. For prying them from their rock larger oysters — those more than requires a good deal of effort. A five inches long — chop into chisel, screwdriver or similar pieces and using in a stew.

Private sale — waterfront

GULF ISLANDS — MAYNE 90' waterfront, wide open view, lots of arbutus trees, easy access to ocean, small usable -cabin. Historic lighthouse CALL OWNER — (604) 922-5093 Mayne Island's Georgina Point graphed spot, offering visitors both scenic beauty and a touch of lighthouse is a much-photo- marine history.

MAYNE ISLAND Islandsdelicious Foods at Size: 21 square kilometres (eight square miles) • Population: 553 (1981 census) Central Settlement: Miners Bay (liquor, fuel, post office, Mayne Island Market food) Local islands'food products at the Agricultural Hall, Miners Bay Other Settlements: Bennett Bay 10-3 each Saturday Campsites: No Public Campground • Wholesome snacks • Bulk, dried fruits • Organic whole & some macrobiotic foods Ferry Slips: Village Bay • Galiano baked goods • Crafts Mayne Island's comparatively small population and hilly landscape give it an old-farm flavour, and a peace and quiet that visitors find welcoming. The farm connection is As we are committed to a conserver Food preparation and information displays appropriate, since Mayne's history includes agriculture as an society we provide a recycling service and other events are showcased at for glass, tin cans and cardboard at the market periodically. early industry. The island was also well-known for its the hall on Saturdays. Come visit our orchards, and is regarded as the first place in B.C. where operation and learn how you can VISIT YOUR apples were grown. pitch in in your community. MARKET! Today, Mayne Island still embraces agriculture — sheep farming, for instance — and retains the cleared, rolling farmland that underlines its heritage. The island also enjoys a place in history as a stopping- point for thirsty, gold-seeking miners drawn to the area by Fraser River discoveries in the late 1800s. Favourite stopping spots were the Mayne Island Inn at Bennett Bay, and the "The Mavne Core" Springwater Lodge in Miners Bay, both built in the 19th century. Exploring Mayne Island is not difficult, since it offers an at Miners Bay abundance of accommodation in hotels and bed and breakfast operations. While you're there, drop into any of the Springwater Lodge Miners Bay Deli numerous local galleries for a look at the outstanding 539-5521 539-5051 artwork produced by local residents. On the sea at Miners Bay. Full dining, Where the gourmand may appreciate fine An event of note for visitors and residents alike is the fall featuring great homemade soups & food and refreshment, friendly service and fair, held in August each year. It's a combination of seafood dinners in a relaxed atmosphere. pleasant atmosphere. Special catering by expositions, baked goods, contests and logging sport Rooms start at $18 single, $26 double. arrangement. Located at Miners Bay, close competitions all staged within reach of the historic Salmon fishing, beachcombing, hiking, to the Trading Post. Your hostess: Joanne agricultural hall. marine supplies available, new docking Melinda Thackray. facilities, outdoor dining on our new deck—a great view! Miners Bay Trading Post The Root Seller For Mayne Island properties 200 yds. from the dock at Miners Bay. 539-2621 call Groceries, dairy, fresh meat & produce. Fishing tackle & bait, souvenirs. Open Art Gallery, Bed & Breakfast in a 1924 Mon to Sat 9.30-6.00. Sun & Hoi. 10.00- Heritage House. Box 5, Mayne Island, 4.00. B.C. VON 2J0. Joan and Davey SALT SPRING LANDS LTD. Drummond. The House of Taylor Mayne Island Branch P.O. Box 99, Mayne Island, B.C. VON 2J0. 539-2031 "The House of Taylor" welcomes you to A Active Pass Auto Marine P.O. Box 77, Mayne Island, B.C. VON 2J0 Gallery of Island Artists. Featuring over 25 artisans with a unique blend of quality art 539-5411 Visit our office?, 2 km from ferry, in Miners Bay. and handcrafted items in traditional and Regular, marked, unleaded gasoline. Resident salespeople providing professional, contemporary styles. Diesel fuel, oils, propane. Movie rentals, efficient real estate service. bait, ice, munchies, pop, confections. Bike Mostly Books rentals. Marine dock: gas, oil & bait. CAROL KENNEDY IAN HURST Bought, sold and exchanged. Times- Trueman Norcross, Prop. Open Mon-Sat, 539-2606 539-2873 Colonist daily. 8-6; Sun 9-5. ••. • 11. <.». -. 11.11., The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 31 Mayne Island retains a sense of rural charm Farms, forests, artists' studios, island homesteads and cozy bed and breakfast lodgings combine to make Mayne Island an inviting destination for a rural holiday.

In early days, gold-thirsty min­ ers made the island a stopping- point on their way to mineral finds. They would put in at Mayne Island's northern bay for lodging and the like, recovering for the next leg of their trip north.

Story has it that many of their men, while waiting for their steamer to drop anchor before it crossed into Active Pass, would plant potatoes to ensure against starvation the following winter, in the event their dreams of gold remained unfulfilled. Thus, Min­ er's Bay was named. Today, downtown Mayne Island is Miner's Bay. A stone's throw from the ferry slip at Village Bay, Miner's Bay pro­ vides every amenity. It's a com­ Mayne Island was stopping point for steamships, miners pact community which, on a still spring afternoon, recalls the tran- Island, like the Charterhouse and expositions, baking goods and quality of the island's past. Bob and Mary Borsos' Studio contest entries. Outdoor logging Madrona. Frances Faminow's Ar­ competitons prevail, and the tea The oldest monument to the tery houses a collection of work gardens are busy until the fair Paintings colourful past of Miner's Bay is done by herself and her two closes in late afternoon. the Springwater Lodge. Nestled daughters. Prints against the low shore, the Sprin­ A visit to Bell Bay's Ginger­ Crafts gwater was built about 1873 by a Cherry Point Lighthouse has bread House captures the Mayne man named Collison. For many daily visiting hours, all summer Island century — the heritage Collectables years, the hotel was run as the long. The pretty lawns and sea­ farmhouse overlooks Bell Bay like Workshops Grandview Lodge — the 'grand side landscaping complete the a dignified matriarch. The bay is view' consisting of Active Pass scenic lighthouse's historical con­ up for sale but a stagnant and Galiano Island. tribution to present-day Mayne. provincial economy has slowed Frances Faminow Gallery Hours: land sales in recent years, so one Tues-Sun Today, Active Pass is still a Just above Miner's Bay on of Mayne's many bed and break­ (604) 539-2835 grand view — not to mention a Fernhill Road is the Mayne Island fast operations continues to enjoy Box 107, Mayne Island, B.C. VON 2J0 Noon-5 pm bustling highway for the B.C. its solitude on the hill. Ferry fleet. Nearby, a dilapidated geodesic m In I960, Joan and the late Al dome hanging over the sea, Drummond purchased the Grand- 'Mayne Island is an sparrows nesting in the angular view Lodge, changing its name to roof, and an abandoned van Fernhill Lodge the Springwater in memory of inviting destination commemmorate the island's pop­ Joan's Saskatchewan home town. ularity during the counter-culture for a summer era of the early 1970s. The Drummonds ran the Sprin­ gwater for years, and Joan can holiday.' To round out a Mayne Island fondly recall the glorious times visit, the galleries and restaur­ when MPs and Canadian digni­ ants in downtown Miner's Bay taries would moor at Miner's Bay cannot be overlooked. Crafts, and stay at the Springwater for gifts and outstanding jewellery conferences and political meet­ Gaol. Untouched by the years and and art is available on Mayne ings. Today, Joan runs a bed and unchanged by the islanders, the Island. & Herb Farm breakfast operation at the Roobel- gaol welcomes visitors during ler, just up from the historic summer hours. And as the visitor makes so­ hotel. journ to Mayne to experience the A quiet, comfortable hideaway in the heart of the Gulf Islands Ask any local resident to name rural culture, so the local resident the event of the year and you'll drinks in the simple life. To ... A feast for your senses at Fernhill Away from Miner's Bay, south undoubtedly be told it's the to Bennett Bay, the inn of the paraphrase another of the Gulf Box 140, Mayne Island, B.C. VON 2J0 Mayne Island fall fair, which is Islands' own, Valdy: Give me the same name is situated on a staged each August across from (604) 539-2544 sprawling sea frontage surround­ simple life. Mayne Islanders live the gaol, at the Mayne Island it so well. ed by waterfront homes and Agricultural Hall in Miner's Bay. coastal nooks and crannies. m The mainspring of community Dusty roads lead to well- life all year round, this old sought-out galleries on Mayne country hall is crammed full of INVITE YOUR FRIENDS TO ENJOY A 'Victorian' Bed & Breakfast Inn DEAN'S BUILDING SUPPLIES THE MAYNE IDEA STORE

For all your home improvement needs Lumber, Hardware, Plumbing & Electrical Supplies Paint, Sundries, Housewares & Garden Supplies Free estimates on all building material packages

Situated on the shore of beautiful Campbell Bay. RR 1 FERNHILL RD., MAYNE ISLAND 539-2640 ffll*&. * Tennis • Swimming • Boating • Fishing • Hiking ten OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Campbell Bay Road, Mayne Island, B.C. VON 2J0 Res. (604) 539-3133 Page 32 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 35 Galiano Island Diversity suits most needs, moods By ANDREW LOVERIDGE Mission House and the Communi­ ments. (Check the Driftwood for Galiano Island, second largest ty Hall. details.) of the Gulf Islands, boasts a Mt. Sutil, noted as the legenda­ Galiano's major art outlet, the diversity of scenic spots and ry strong-hold of pirate Ah-Chee- Dandelion Gallery in Sturdies activities destined to suit the Whan (captured in 1863), and Bay, features work by and infor­ interests and moods of most Porlier Pass, where the island's mation about: (painters) Win visitors. namesake, Dioniso Alcala Galiano Stephen, Keith Holmes, Eliza­ sailed through in 1792, are beth Steward, Tish Saunders, For those seeking a quiet island further historical points of inter­ Alister Ross, Willem Breddels, retreat or a spot to explore est. Carolyn Sadowska, Brian Mit­ woodlands and surrounding wat­ For those interested in art and chell, Ken Hardy and Stuart ers, the island offers a number of entertainment, Galiano features Brands; (prints) Ronaldo Norden; boat charters, hiking trails and weekly events such as recitals, (sculptors) Ian Hooley and Enzio scenic spots. dances, theatre, art exhibitions, Von Rezori; (jewelry) Enid Gaylor For fishing charters contact lectures, banquets and tourna­ Turn to Page 36 Bert Odgaard (539-5252); Ron Caverley (539-5252) charters large boat tours, and Tom Hen- nessy (539-2930) will arrange a sailing tour. Alcala Resort (539- Galiano Lodge 5720) has boat and air rentals for divers; Ben Miltner (539-5642 or 539-2442) rents canoes, kayaks, • Charming seaside hotel with fully appointed rooms scooters and mountain bikes. • Swimming pool, tennis, sauna, sandy beach For horseback riders, Bodega • Satellite TV, RV pads, golf course nearby Resort (539-2677) and Charlie • Fully licensed Weed (539-2237) are the contacts, and golf buffs should call 539- 5533. (604) 539-5252 There is a boat launching ramp at Montague Marine Park; small public boat docks at Spanish B0COOOO«O90O000O9BO0eO0OOO«0000O000Oe0OeO000O» Hills, Retreat Cove, Montague Harbour, Whaler Bay and Stur- \ dies Bay; and a marina (for fuel and provisions) at Montague BED AND BREAKFAST j Harbour. For a rundown on hiking trails, at Hollo way House, Gaiiano island & pick up a guidebook, available at La Berengerie (539-5392) or local Ocean view, private baths stores. A hunting or fishing superb breakfasts license can be obtained at Galiano Garage in Sturdies Bay, and at Montague Harbour (fishing li­ censes only). (604) 539-2581 Parks include Montague Mar­ sseooo&oocooeooooococoooooooooeoM ine — noted for its geology, marine u&5C00050 K local pottery, paintings, glass- and Bellhouse, which boasts rare wild flowers and is of geological "We specialize in spoiling you!' interest. The Bluffs provide spec­ tacular scenery. Scenic water spots include Shaw Lake (surrounded by a floating peat bog), Coon Bay (a lengthy beach with Indian mid­ den) and Georgeson Bay (almost Getaway a whirlpool). Among the points of historical On-the-Sea A common summer season sight waters is a sailboat weathering interest are aged buildings like in any stretch of Gulf Islands another blissful day in the sun. the Burrill Bros. Store, the Old Bed & Breakfast Gourmet Dining (Guests only) Visitors should Over a mile of walk-on beach Fare includes a three-course hot country style breakfast, served on find some time GALIANO our "Cliffhanger" decks overlooking unsurpassed ocean scenery and Mt. Baker. Our specialty homemade quiches, croissants, imaginative egg dishes and friendly atmosphere are gaining a to view scenery reputation. From Page 33 "Cliffhanger Solarium" offers a romantic fireside atmosphere, and there is an active yacht club. Get the ISLAND feeling: complemented by local lamb, fresh seafoods, pastas, homegrown In addition, the Power Squadron organic vegetables, berries and fruits to ensure outstanding quality. trains new people every year. Spring into action now by calling Complimentary one-trip ferry pick-up Gatherings between clubs from other islands are enthusiastic and Joan Callaghan to show you: Retain these ads for future reference numerous. 1. 1 1/3 acres, 132' waterfront on sheltered Gulf Island Get-A-Way Honeymoon Package Pender Island is home to some Whaler Bay, lots of trees. Old house. Good well. Off-season 2-day pkg Very private oceanfront suite lovely churches set in quiet $110,000. 2 nights accommodation decorated in a Laura Ashley pastoral fields. 4 breakfasts decor, brass bed, very romantic. 2. 10 acres close to famous Montague Harbour. 2 gourmet dinners (1 night) Complimentary hot tub, The two Anglican Churches are Good house and well. Well treed. $130,000. 3 #-'•"3 per person massage or horse & buggy ride. St. Peter's at Port Washington on (plus tax) Enquire for further details. North Pender, and the Church of the Good Shepherd on South Inquiries welcomed on these or other properties The perfect, imaginative door prize, Mini-workshops: Pender. Pender Island's Com­ on Galiano, in Victoria or on the Saanich Peninsula. munity Church is in the Hope Bay anniversary, birthday or ?? gift. Enquiries welcome. area. • Unique, refreshing & affordable Visitors to Pender should take a We cater to parties, groups and mini-workshops day to explore and discover the PEMBERTON. many scenic attractions the island Call (604).629-6691 has to offer. Residents are friend­ HOLMES LTD Located on Armadale Rd., off Clam Bay Rd., '/$ mile north LO< ly and helpful, so buy a map and of Hope Bay government dock. pack a picnic lunch. One caution — check your ferry schedule the 2481 Beacon Ave., Sidney Write General Delivery, night before. An early ferry is (604) 656-0911 North Pender Island, B.C. VON 2M0 advisable if you want to get thoroughly acquainted. Page 36 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986

outdoors Store Essential equipment for a hike Full range on Galiano Island goes beyond sturdy boots and food tucked into of groceries, a knapsack. Any visitor serious about tackling local trails should make A Guide To Galiano Island meat & produce required reading before lacing up a shoe. Written and published earlier this year by Andrew Benger, Get one of our attractive owner of La Berengerie restaur­ Galiano Island T-shirts ant in Montague Harbour, the guide offers descriptions and maps of hiking routes both well- known and obscure. It also pro­ Charcoal broiled vides details on local services like hamburgers, hot dogs, accommodations and restaurants. freshly baked pie, Benger notes that the guide cold drinks & ice cream Driftwood photo by Duncan MacDonnell makes it possible to trek from one Heron finds rocky beach at bird, sea and animal life abounds end of the island to another, and Whaler Bay, on Galiano, suitable for sharp-eyed visitors to Galiano. back again, without once covering Taking a break spot for a rest break. A variety of the same ground. The routes laid Good blacktop road to our beautiful waterfront location out cover Crown land, property owned by MacMillan-Bloedel and acreage left in trust to the Galiano Club. Open on Sundays & Visitors can Approximately 70 per cent of holidays as well GALIANO ISLAND the land on Galiano is owned by take in variety MacMillan-Bloedel. Benger Size: 57 square kilometres (22 square miles) points out that the forest company 539-2352 Population: 721 (1981 census) has "an enlightened policy re­ of adventures garding the recreational use of Central Settlement: Sturdies Bay (liquor store, fuel, post their properties," but stresses From Page 35 office, groceries) that the policy is voluntary. He Campsites: Montague Harbour Park advises hikers to show respect for Be Careful and Enzio Von Rezori; (fashions) Ferry Slips: Montague Harbour and Sturdies Bay the land by refraining from with Fire ,i Tona Von Rezori and Chris Tay­ camping, depositing garbage or starting campfires. in the Forest lor; (stained glass) Kurt Zuwicki. Galiano Island is perhaps best known as a haven for The Camas Shop in Georgeson A Guide To Galiano, available acclaimed artists like painter Elisabeth Hopkins and writers at stores and lodges on the island, B.Cs Most Valuable Bay offers local weaving, wool Natural Resource and jewalry, and The Earthen Jane Rule, Audrey Thomas and Dorothy Livesay. However, provides detailed descriptions of Things on Shopland Drive sells the influence this beautiful island has on the creative Turn to Page 38 local pottery, paintings, glas- personalities of its more well-known residents has been work and prints. Burrill Bros, known to cast a spell on all who set foot on its shores. has paintings and balm and salves for purchase, while the Galiano is also well-known for its mushroom rock Tiny Flower Shop performs flower formations, a source of fascination for beachcombers and arrangements. artists alike. In physical terms, the island is long and narrow, offers a Artists Gill Ulen (539-2926), dry climate and is endowed with interesting spots to visit. As fljUU ISLAND SEA KAVAKIN^ Flora Hawbolt (539-2517), Ken Hardy (539-5778), Dorothy Lup- an example of the rich variety of setting, travellers can hike R R *2 Galiano Island, B.C. Canada VON IPO ton (539-2960) and Yvonne Crea- through thickly forested land in Bluff Park — which allows more (539-2539) sell artwork from impressive views of the southern Gulf Islands — or stroll their homes. along immaculate beaches like the one found at Coon Bay. PADDLE THE About two-thirds of the island is owned by forest company In addition, there are shows by MacMillan-Bloedel, which permits access to its properties. GULF ISLANDS the Painters' Guild (July 12), the Spinners' and Weavers' Guild Hikers are asked to respect that access by refraining from Sea Touring is the ideal way to experience the naturally (July 28) and the '12 Weavers' building campfires, and hauling their garbarge out with sculpted sandstone shores, secluded coves and abundant (Christmas). La Berengerie holds them. wildlife in the protected waters of the continuously changing shows. Gulf Islands Archipelago. Other activities to consider while visiting Galiano include a Choose from 1, 2 or 3 day naturalist led excursions or rent Galiano offers a wide variety of round of golf at the island's nine-hole course, horseback rides your own canoe or kayak and chart your own adventure. restaurants. Both the Pink Gera­ or a chartered sailing trip through nearby waters. Our 1 or 2 person kayaks and canoes are top quality for nium (international reputation— In terms of services, Galiano offers campsites, lodges and your safety and enjoyment. 539-2477) and La Berengerie resorts, not to mention grocery and liquor stores, fuel supples (539-5392) encourage reserva­ tions. Galiano Lodge, The resorts, not mention grocery and liquor stores, fuel supplies Spring & Fall Migratory island's largest restaurant (which and a pust office. Several harbours provide moorage for Wildlife Tours offers a sea view), can be found in boats. We also rent: Sturdies Bay (539-5252). Galiano is also a good spot to shop for locally-produced Laser II Sailboats, A pub, the Hummingbird Inn, artwork. Try Small World, located inside Galiano Trading Bicycles & Mopeds offers light meals; the Burrill Company; Dandelion Gallery in downtown Sturdies Bay; Bros, coffee shop serves lunch and La Berengerie, a Montague Harbour restaurant which between 12 and 1:30 p.m.; and fSviT BUUTO SKA *AI*PH^» the Spanish Hill Store offers hangs and sells works of art. hamburgers and hot dogs. RR#2 Galiano Island, B.C. Canada VON IPO (604) 539-2442

. ;-*...»**.* .'»'*- * ,. •?»-*'-»?» . The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 37

PEMBERTON Bodeaa HOLMES LTD 2481 Beacon Ave., G Open RESORT td Sidney, B.C. 656-0911 L year-round Log Chalets m Get the island feeling Pdtt Scenic Trail Rides Spring into action now by calling Joan Callaghan to show you: 1. 1 1/3 acres, 132' WF on sheltered Whaler Bay. Lots of trees. Old house. Good well. $110,000. Steve & Elizabeth Ocsko 2. 10 acres close to famous Montague Harbour. Old house and well. Well treed. $130,000. Box 115, Galiano, B.C. VON 1P0 Inquiries welcomed on these or any other properties (604) 539-2677 on Galiano, Victoria or Saanich Peninsula.

Welcome to DISCOVER Galiano Island! For further information on accommodation eating places, recreational activities, GALIANO arts & crafts & much more contact: Galiano Island Visitors Association ISLAND GfttinnO Galiano Chamber of Commerce Box 73, Galiano, B.C. isLnnp. VON 1P0 or phone: (604) 539-2233

GALIANO GARAGE

JUST A LITTLE MORE THAN A SERVICE STATION" • Licensed mechanic • Car/boat gas, diesel & oil • Hunting/fishing licences/supplies • Munchies, cigs, magazines, books • Pet supplies • Ice, bait

NOW FEATURING NANCY'S NURSERY A complete line of farm & garden supplies At Sturdies Bay 539-5500 Page 38 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986

Galiano's Bluff Park affords spectacular views of Active Pass and points south. Moving off the cliffside path, however, quickly takes hikers into stands of magnificent first-growth timber.

Restaurant Mi Bed & Breakfast

Montague Harbour Galiano Island Galiano Island (604) 539-5392 Abundant trails await visitors From Page 36 trail around the shoulder to the climbs through dense fir and onto hiking trails. A simplified over­ second band of cliffs. You can the last grassy slope leading to view of some of the routes are as now choose between a path going the summit ridge. follows: straight ahead across a steep A second, and easier, route to • BLUFFS PARK grassy slope, or following the the top of Mt. Galiano starts with steep slope to the right, which is Driving from the ferry slip at right-hand turn off Highland something unmarked until you are level with Sturdies Bay, turn left onto Drive and onto Georgeson Bay the tops of the cliffs. At that Burrill Road and continue around Road, continuing up past Bluff point, follow the mossy ledge a sharp bend which turns into Road until reaching a point just westwards. Bluff Drive. Follow the dirt road before a large tree in the middle nice and turn left when you reach the At the west end of the ledge, of the road. Turn left here, onto Bluffs Park sign. A parking lot lies above the second cliff band, the Morgan Road, and follow it until a short distance along the road. lower trail rejoins through an easy Turn to Page 40 The bluffs provide spectacular gully, and the re-united path views down to Active Pass, east to to Mt. Baker and over the southern Gulf Islands. Numerous wild flowers can be found here, as well as mature big leaf maple trees, do red cedar, balsam fir and Douglas fir. Benger's guide lists trails which take the traveller down to A great way to see the water's edge, and paths which wander back towards Stur­ dies Bay, through what he calls Galiano & surrounding the back section of the park. PUB islands is aboard the • MOUNT GALIANO Two routes are outlined, one of interest to the "strong-legged "GREAT WHITE CLOUD" and sound of wind," and another which the guide describes as Experience the serenity of sailing being substantially easier. aboard a 46-foot catamaran—fish, The first calls for a left turn est. 1984 relax or take the wheel as you from Highland Drive onto Active discover remote islets, beaches and Pass Drive. Follow the road until VERA and GEORGE HARRIS wildlife of the world's most beautiful reaching a MacMillan-Bloedel sign, then make a 90-degree turn 539-5472 cruising waters. Safe and fun for all and look for two horizontal tapes ages. across an alder. It's 50 metres away, across mossy logs and fern • Great homecooked meals in friendly island atmosphere Southwind Sailing Charters is offering two clumps. • Smorgasbord on Thursday nights daysailing trips each day out of Montague Follow the path until you reach • Courtesy bus from Montague Harbour—on the hour Harbour. A delicious seafood picnic is served on the cliff base, then walk to the left • Bed & breakfast above the Pub both our 11:00-3:00 lunch cruise and our 4:00- until arriving at a well-marked 8:00 supper cruise. gully. After scrambling up the Open 11-11, Mon-Thurs, 11-12 Fri & Sat, 1111 Sun The menu usually includes: gully, follow a well-defined deer • Smoked salmon & cream cheese on a bagel • Seviche (cod marinated in lime juice & fresh herbs) • French bread • Fresh vegetable garnish J4- • Fruit salad • Galiano bar SALES A-FORD-ABLEJCm. J fJC SERVIC E • White wine Children's menu available THE ONE STOP • Satellite Systems ELECTRICAL • Electrical contracting • Computers • Repairs $25 per person • TVs, video machines ELECTRONIC SHOP • Marine Children half price • Car stereos • TV, Stereo repairs Phone for reservations & information • Portable stereos (Authorized ZENITH Tom & Ann Hennessy • Tele answering machines warranty depot) • VHFs, CBs • TV antennas—sold. • Scanners JIM FORD 539"2306 installed & serviced Southwind Sailing Charters • Depth sounders GALIANO ISLAND (604) 539-2930 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 41

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Spinning, weaving & Knitting supplies Dwarfed by giant cedar tree in Handcrafted gifts stand between Hobiton and Tsuiat boonv lakes is voyageur Gary Hansen. Other aspects of the Nitinat Triangle trip include tranquil lakes, rubble-strewn pathways and Vancouver Island's west coast WHIPPLETREE JUNCTION (5 km south of Duncan) beaches. Trans-Canada Highway, Duncan, B.C. V9L 4W4

TELEPHONE 746-5250

Open Monday through Saturday—10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday—12 noon to 5 p.m.

Enjoy The Sun Buy a Sunroom or Greenhouse for your Home.

Kits are available— or let us custom design and build one for you. Dealer inquiries welcome

We will not knowingly be undersold for a sunroom of comparable quality. ISLAND SUNROOMS 101-6761 Kirkpatrick Cres., RR 3, Victoria V8X 3X1 652-5144 Nitinat Triangle difficult to conquer Expect the best! By DUNCAN MacDONNELL the diversity of geography, travel­ HONEYMOON BAY — If Bam- ling conditions and sights make it field and Port Refrew are door­ a trip well worth taking. Howe­ m ways to Vancouver Island's West ver, it is not an adventure for Coast Trail, this picturesque com­ anyone seeking instant or easy munity near Lake Cowichan is a rewards; sore muscles, scrapes, window. bruises and blisters are the toll Honeymoon Bay is the point exacted from travellers who fol­ where blacktop turns to gravel low this route. road, and where travellers using The voyage begins easily en­ this route to Vancouver Island's ough. From the launch point west coast leave most other traffic beside the old cedars, it's a ftibrif behind. leisurely paddle south to the first It is here, too, where the sight portage point — a portal, marked of logging truck and booming by a bleach bottle hanging from a ground, of harvested hillside and tree, which lies just past an new growth gradually begins to abandoned cabin set beside a grow fainter. small creek trickling into the lake. As evidence of logging activity Then the work begins. Canoe, fades, the window to the West backpacks, assorted gear and Coast Trail inches upwards. At travellers must climb, descend, Nitinat Lake, it needs but a slight climb and descend again along a nudge to be fully opened. trail that wanders from mud- The traveller climbs through slogged lowlands to steep hillocks that window on the west side of holding towering cedar, hemlock the lake, at a campsite set amidst and fir trees. a stand of towering cedar trees Rugged is the only word for this backed against a rutted and trail. Loose boulders, deadfalls City selection and city prices overgrown logging road. and muck must all be negotiated Bulk foods • Instore bakery • Fresh fish & dell dept. On the other side of the cedars in an acrobatic journey that, if Homemade sausages • Bulk pop is the lake itself, ready to receive divided into two trips (one for canoe and paddlers anxious to canoe, the other for gear), takes brave the Nitinat Triangle — a about four hours. chain of lakes and hiking trails The going is made slightly acceptable by a clearly-marked connecting inland Vancouver path and rudimentary work done Island to the shores of its west to clear a way through or around coast. TRANS CANADA HIGHWAY, DUNCAN Jt is not a traditional route, but Turn to Page 42 Page 42 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 SSn? "rT^aMw Take a train into B.C.'s history...atthe BRITISH COLUMBIA Firtst

Explore the past of the province by train on 100 acres of forest and parkland. Visit the log museum and watch a sawmill at work. Enjoy the shade of 180 ft. firs down Foresters' Walk!

H Open 10 am - 5.30 pm daily Located just 2 km north of Duncan on the Trans Canada Highway

Open May 3 to September 28 Adults: $3.95 Children: $2.00 ^H OAP's: $2.95 Students: $2.95<13 is> ,; . , Season passes available

GIVE BLOOD. GIVE LIFE! Iriifci M Heart patients and Red Cross are counting on you! Nitinat Triangle path weaves through virgin timber

Demanding portages THE highlight Nitinat trip \^ILLAGE GALLERY From Page 41 minutes. Even if a wind is blowing, LTD. some of the more imposing travellers following the south obstacles. shore find themselves in the lee. LOCAL ART . PRINTS . The final descene staggers to It makes for a leisurely paddle, CARDS the edge of Hobiton Lake, which and the pace is such that it is easy TO TAKE HOME is flanked to the north by steep to avoid the temptation to put ridges and to the south by a ashore for a breather. gentle slope of mainly old-growth Hobiton dies in a tangle of cedars. Some of those trees are deadfalls cluttering the waters of (on the main street) victims of the population crunch its southern end. A carved log found in virgin forests; they lie jutting into the mess, marked 2459 Beacon Ave., Sidney, B.C. 656-3633 fallen in the lake, protruding overhead by a bleach bottle fingers that scape the canoe of hanging from a branch, marks the unwary paddlers. landing point. Once the boat is in Hobiton This is the starting point for the Lake, it is perhaps a 15 minute second portage, which is slightly trip out of a narrow channel and more strenuous than the first. around a bend to the north, where This stage is steeper, muddier a small creek and pebbled shore and more rubble-strewn than the make a perfect campsite at what first portage. Its saving grace is should be the end of the first that the route is slightly shorter, THRIFTY FOODS day's travel. but even then a four-hour trip Unlike Nitinat, which is a long should be expected before canoe and open stretch of water buffet­ and gear is over the hump. ed by strong mid-day winds, What this portage demands in SIDNEY, B.C. Hobiton is a fairly placid lake. If endurance and perseverance, conditions are ideal, its length however, it rewards with soft 0) can be travelled in as little as 90 > ,rS Turn to Page 43 Thrifty c Foods >0) IS .c en OVERNIGHT Beacon Ave. 0} Gov't. Wharf en (0 III & Customs CO 05 FOR LESS! 03 w 0. LZZ3 +-* Liquor Store .c in DORIC MOTEL Anacortes Clean - Convenient - Comfortable 4yv^'cp^v& Ferry Wharf

Adjacent to Mayfair Shopping Centre, five minutes from the TBRIFTY FOODS centre of town. Kitchenettes, laundry facilities, free local phone calls, complimentary morning coffee! has ice, fresh meat and produce and VERY REASONABLE RATES! an incomparable "Deli" ooo: Subsidized taxi fare from store to wharf 386-2481 1590 Fairfield Rd. 3995 Quadra St. 2720 Mill Bay Rd. 3025 Douglas St., Victoria Fairfield Plaza Saanich Centre Mill Bay Plaza 9810 7th St. 5126 Cordova Bay Rd. Mariner Plaza, Sidney Cordova Bay Plaza

V.VAVAVWVVV 17(;i>T I Thfi_B_eautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Page 43~

Access to the Triangle is gained From there, the trail is adequately through Lake Cowichan, near marked. However, travellers Duncan, and via a small creek should be advised that the trip is a about one-third of the way down difficult one, demanding outdoor the northwest side of Nitinat Lake. expertise and endurance.

^—'/// £~ SairS'icum/ '

;•; \ ' "=^/ r^-^^V'.C) / LW& 0UTB0ARDS Tranquil coastal spots await weary travellers MARINE From Page 42 up a busier throughfare, the West lights and a stand of cedars that Coast Trail. A short walk east challenges you to judge which along this foot-path freeway tree is most perfect, and most crosses the Tsuiat River, climbs a demanding of attention. sharp hill and skirts a deep ravine The intoxicating canopy lingers holding a high stairway to its bosom. SERVICE along most of the trail but eventually fades in a sharp de­ At the bottom of the stairway is scent to Tsuiat Lake and its slow beach and ocean, Tsuiat Falls and folds of hill and tree. sheer cliffs, and rock-encrusted Like Hobiton, this body of bays that can be explored for water is fairly narrow and, under days. After struggling through proper conditions, can be taken in the rain forest, the coast is EVIHRUDE 90 minutes — if the canoeists welcome medicine to soothe sore ignore temptations to explore an bodies. And it took you only two abundance of south-shore bays, days to reach this spot. that is. An excellent campsite also lies The bottom end of Tsuiat is an here. Shelter is provided by inviting destination, offering a cracks in the cliff face, fresh U. water and a bathing pool are 'alii, sandy beach and the shade of orphaned trees to campers now at offered by Tsuiat Falls, and the end of what should be the entertainment is available on the second evening of the voyage. It's beach. You could linger in worse a fine time to stoke up a campfire places. and rest against a beached log, Heading home is difficult once admiring the play of dying lights bodies have had the luxury of m, HIGHLINER. "W flickering across a lake like glass. respite, however. The lakes seem From here, the west coast of longer, the winds stronger and TRAILERS Vancouver Island cannot be seen less helpful, the portages stepper but it can be felt in a noticeable and muddier. But the return does dampening of air, leaf and limb. give travellers a chance to take a A brief hike is needed to reach the second look at elements missed set — but not before yet another the first time around — even to CAMPION portage. stop and browse, if the mood This one is short, however, arises. BOATS being but a quick dash along a city-block-long trail and a fast The feeling of calm that accom­ paddle across a tepid pond. Packs panies travellers over the Trian­ are then shouldered for the most gle begins to fade about two- thirds of the way back down oM§obra difficult section of all — a trail (if STERN DRIVES it can be called that) over a Hobiton Lake, just when the claustophibic collection of dan­ southern ridges of Nitinat Lake gling sn'afls! stump-ends, branch­ come into view over the trees. es and stacked deadfalls designed These are heavily-scarred hillsi­ to block passage to all but the des, bearing the evidence of years determined. of logging activity that has not, to date, encroached on the Triangle. The way is made more difficult, if that is possible, by a shortage of At first, having drunk deeply of suitable markers. Just when it a forest that has never felt the seems you have staggered into a bite of chainsaws, the sight is an dead end, however, a red flag will affront to the senses. But as materialize like a beacon, guiding civilization approaches, the lure you through yet more tangles. of a logging road affording clear Mercifully, the so-called trail passage to a pint and burger at a eventually. ends, with, * stumble , Lake Coivicharw pub 4s enough to 5481 HAMSTERLEY RD., VICTORIA, B.C. V8Y 1S4 658-5211 over the wooden.planking making Jet the..feeling pass. Page 44 The Beautiful Islands, Summer 1986 Pacific Shore Realty Ltd. C.25 Wood Dale Dr., Mayne Island, B.C. 539-2317 222-1188 These stand alone

EXCEPTIONAL IN QUEST OF THE BEST? STUNNINGI LOOK NO FURTHER! OCEANFRONT ESTATE Panoramic view acreage with South/South­ Dazzling island contemporary by renowned 2.94 SW seafront acres. Main home is 2,160 Classic Tudor home. 10.21 SOUTH facing west exposure. Large architect-designed Vancouver architect Ed Ratsoy. Over 1/2 acre sq. ft. Kitchen/dining area has custom-crafted acres. Fenced garden area. Private COVE and contemporary island home with 2 bedrooms, of enchanting seafront. Private, tranquil and cedar cabinets, built-in freezers, ultimate in WALK-ON BEACH. Circular driveway, den, office, gourmet kitchen, pantry, 4 spacious. Vistas over the Gulf Islands and on appliances. In-floor heating plus 2 fireplaces. sidewalks. Two level home. Master bedroom fireplaces. Ideal for family living and into the San Juans Fully serviced. Finest Lots of skylights. Sunken roman tub in main with walk-in closet and ensuite. A discerning entertaining. Natural landscaping. Private construction. Designed for low maintenance. bathroom. MANY MANY EXTRAS including value for those who appreciate luxury. Price road. Open to reasonable offers at $149,500. Below replacement at $159,000. double car garage, workshop. BOATHOUSE & has just been reduced to $395,000, and GUEST COTTAGE. Proudly offered to the vendor will carry some terms. discerning investor for $425,000,

HOMESITES SEAFRONTS PENDER ISLAND * .69 ac. bldg. lot. Well treed $7,500 SATURNA ISLAND * Build your own getaway. Serviced $7,500 • Sunny South lot. Treed. Beach $39,000 * Across from Magic Lake. Ideal area. $12,500 • Big bluff. Over 1 ac. Private $49,000 * .98 ac. prime PRIVACY. Treed . $14,000 * Walk on Fish off your porch ... $65,000 Bell Bern * 1.71 ac. cul-de-sac close to beach $15,000 MAYNE ISLAND MAYNE ISLAND • Protected MOORAGE. Campbell Bay $55,000 BELL BAY * Level lot. Paved road. Services $11,500 2 acre seafronts. Moorage. Drilled wells. * Minutes walk to ferry. Treed .. $12,500 * Medium bank. Quiet. Serviced $60,000 * 1.3 ac. Sunsets. Bldg. site .... $60,000 Private road. There are only 5 CHOICE parcels + South-facing. Peek of a view ... $15,000 left and the prices start at $58,000 AND the + Close to beach. Building site .. $17,500 PENDER ISLAND EAGLE RIDGE vendor will carry with 10% cash down. * 1.34 ac, easy access. Offers to $22,000 Take your pick . . . oceanfront, views, view * Fantastic buyl Great bldg. site . $52,000 acreages, but be quick cuz there's only 7 left! * Spacious seafront. Treed $58,000 SATURNA ISLAND Drilled wells, driveways in. All are beautifully • SAND BEACHI Sheltered Cove $79,000 * Wooded lot. Walk to ferry. Trlr. . $21,000 treed and naturally landscaped. COME AND • SOUTH facing Trailer Serviced $79,000 * Beautiful cedars & firs. Road in $25,000 BUILD YOUR BEST DREAMS AT EAGLE * Level. Easy walk. Natural spring $25,000 RIDGEI OCEANFRONT — $65,000 GALIANO ISLAND CALL FOR OUR COMPLETE VIEWS — from $25,000 * 1.68 ac. Access from 2 roads. PROPERTY CATALOGUE OFFERS PLEASE * 2 ac, private. Minutes to ferry $35,000 222-1188 (Vancouver) VIEWS! 539-2317 (outside Vancouver) • Pastoral view. Close to boat launch $13,500 • Well treed serviced lot. OFFERS PLEASE! • Dandy bldg. lot. Minutes to ferry $16,000 COMFORTABLE ISLAND HOME + .67 ac. serviced, faces West. Treed $21,500 Summer sunsets. Moorage out front. One of • SOUTH PENDER. Small cabin, near beach. four parcels available with an asking price of $25,000 $190,000 for all four I • 3.10 ac, road & well in. Superbl $49,000 • 10 ac. well treed, private. Well . $75,000

PONIES & PARSNIPS WE HAVE RENTALS! A truly tremendous opportunity to own your own hobby farm or retirement dream. 20 EXECUTIVE SWEET BOOK NOW ACRES OF LEVEL, ARABLE agricultural Breathtaking exposure. South view of Horton FOR YOUR SUMMER GETAWAY. BOTTOM LAND. Offers privacy and distant Bay. 2 level home. Natural landscaping. ocean views. Several buildings. Currently Fenced garden area. 163 ft. of seafront tool produces a fine crop of MAYNE ISLAND lamb ISLAND OCEANFRONT RETREAT and has a good business in farm fresh eggs. MOORAGE, MOORAGE, MOORAGEI Asking COTTAGES FROM $120,000. 1.03 acres. Well maintained home. 3 bdrms. Asking $175,000. $350. PER MONTH Fully serviced. Faces West. Offers to $90,000. NEW TO YOU! ACREAGES Need room? Want privacy? Need to relax? We Great family home on Pender Island. Close to have a great selection of acreages available. everything. Right on the lake. Swimming. Safe 180° views. You can literally see foreverl for CHILDREN. Asking $79,500. Driveways, hydro, drilled wells, building sites cleared. Come on over, relax, hike, look and OR give us your best offer . . . 1.5 acres on Mayne Island with 1,897 square foot contemporary home. Guest cottage. Lot 3 $47,500 Sunrises and sunsets. Great potential for bed Lot 11 10% DOWN ..$65,000 and breakfast or. . . Just reduced to $99,500. Lot 12 $110,000 Lot 14 10% DOWN .. $125,000 PEEK OF PERFECTION Lot 16 . $69,000 Lot 26 ... $135,000 1.8 seafront acres. 100 feet of frontage on SOLD Active Pass. Terraced gardens and native evergreens. 1,700 sq. ft. home. GAZEBO. UNIQUE Asking $230,000. COTTAGES & HOMES Waterfront chalet. 2 bdrms. 1 bath. South • South facing. Private, serviced . $37,500 exposure, shed & outbuildings. Only • 1,290 sq. ft. hBOUOew. Well $53,500 $85,000. + Cedar home. Landscaped. Beautiful. SEA TO APPRECIATE! $68,600 Simply delightful Panabode. Lovely view + Immaculate home. Bennett Bay area. facing sea. Glorious sunsets. Boat moorage $79,000 steps away. PRIVATE. 1,662 sq. ft. home with + Chalet close to beaches, boat ramp $69,900 lots of decks and large windows. Make us an • Contractor built. EXCEPTIONAL! . $97,500 offer we can't refuse I

YOUR ISLANDS REPRESENTATIVES ARE:

SURF& SEA SOUNDS Bill & Donna Messer - 539-2745 2.04 acres. Immaculate home, guest cottage, Contemporary Mayne seafront home. Warm, garden, fruit trees, grape vines. Gorgeous sunny lot. SOUTH facing. All services. A rare Bob Almond - 539-2271 views of Campbell Bay. Offered at $96,900. onel Asking $139,000. Arnie Farrell - 531-7595