CHAPTER EIGHT
25 Suit Rules All Men Need to Know
A man can’t be called a gentleman if he doesn’t know how to wear his suit
I once got a job to make 2 suits for a new client. The guy in question had never owned a suit before, this was going to be his first.
As always, I try to understand what kind of job my client needs then I tailor my pitch to their job while suggesting my ideas on the design as well as other details which I think would look nice on them – such as the fabric, the right color for the skin tone and other additional accessories that will complement the overall look.
A couple of questions came to mind while I was considering the kind of the suit I’ll make for him. Things like…what would be the best colors to make for him - considering this was his first, would it be double vent or single vent, would it be single button or double button? Should I go for notch or peak lapel? And most importantly, what occasion does he need these suits for, is it for work, for a special event or for both?
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
After I decided what was suitable for my client, I thought it was important for him to know Suit Rules that would guide him when rocking his brand new bespoke suit once it arrives.
I decided to share some basic suit rules all men need to know. So this article is for my client, my fellow menswear stylists, the tailors and all dapper gents out there.
These rules basically tell you how to choose a suit, how to get them tailored, the shirts, ties, shoe and watches to wear with them and best of all – how to look great in a suit. Enjoy!
25 SUIT RULES ALL MEN NEED TO KNOW ON SUITS
Rule #1
Your first suit should NOT be Black. Go for either a solid navy blue or a solid charcoal grey, these two colors should be the first two suit colors you should get. Always choose a charcoal grey over a black suit. When you must have had 3-4 suits you may then go for a black.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Rule #2
Choose the right Lapel type – There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. The shawl lapel is most suitable for dinner jackets/tuxedos. Notch lapel is ideal for single-breasted suits, blazers and sports coats. Not recommended for double-breasted suits and tuxedos. Double-breasted suit should always have peak lapels. They are also appropriate on single-breasted suits and you’ll often see these lapels on pinstriped fabrics.
Rule #3
Thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school. Choose wisely.
Rule #4
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable than single vents.
Rule #5
The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
Notch Lapel
Rule #6
When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors. Un-stitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
ON SHOES
Rule #7
As a general rule, a Black Formal shoe will go with nearly all suit colours. However you can make more of an impact if you go for a brown or tan shoe when wearing either a Navy/Blue or Light colour suit. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this rule:
Black Suit = Black Shoe Charcoal Grey Suit = Black Shoe Light Grey Suit = Black Shoe or Brown Shoe Any Shade of Blue Suit (Navy, Powder Blue etc.) = Brown Shoe or Black Shoe Brown Suit = Brown Shoe
Rule #8
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Your belt should be fairly thin and should be the exact same color as your shoes. Black and Brown (including different shades of brown such as tan) are preferred for a corporate look.
ON BUTTONS
Rule #9
If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.
Rule #10
The top button of a two-button suit (or the middle button of a three-button suit) should fall at or above the navel. No matter what you do, NEVER fasten the last button of a single breasted suit. If a single breasted suit has 1 button, the button should always be buttoned when standing and unfastened when one sits down. If it has 2 buttons, the top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone. With 3 buttons, you have options. You can either button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or simply button the center button.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Rule #11
Always unfasten the buttons on your suit when you sit down. NO exceptions
Rule #12
The bottom button of a vest/waist coat should always be unbuttoned.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Rule #13
Never fasten the bottom button of a double-breasted jacket (unless it has only a single row of buttons).
ON TIES
Rule #14
The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Rule #15
Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt. A bold tie should be paired with a subtle shirt.
Rule #16
Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or the center of your belt buckle.
Rule #17
Your tie bar should never be wider than your tie
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
ON FIT
Rule #18
For a proper-fitting jacket, you should be able to fit a fist between your chest and the fabric.
Rule #19
Your sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch. For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.
Rule #20
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Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down. Also experiment with colorful socks
Rule #21
For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe (No Breaks). For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces (Quarter Breaks). For a modern man, quarter or no break should be one of your ideal style, be it pants or chinos/khaki. Avoid the trouser length reaching the sole of your shoe. Avoid double folds as well.
ON ACCESSORIES
Rule #22
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Do NOT over-accessorize. A pocket-square, a tie bar, a collar pin and a lapel pin is too much at once. If you're already wearing a pocket square, a tie bar and a collar pin, you'll want to reconsider that clever lapel pin.
Rule #23
A pocket square is one of the few menswear accessories which can add an extra level of polish and elegant touch to your suit. Avoid matching it with your tie either in pattern or fabric choice, instead find colors that complement the outfit. You find a lot of men matching their ties to their pocket squares, just for the sake of ease and by so doing it removes the taste it adds to the outfit.
Rule #24
Never wear a sports watch with a suit. Get yourself a proper watch, one that shows you're fully invested in every last detail of your appearance.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
Rule #25
Never wear a Backpack with Suit, opt for a nice briefcase or a messenger bag.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com