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When identity projects go wrong – an exploration of identity- inconsistent consumption using techniques of neutralisation Yuanqing Du A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the University of the West of England, Bristol for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Bristol Business School, Faculty of Business and Law, University of the West of England, Bristol January 2020 1 2 Abstract The research relates to identity projects and the question of why consumers still purchase identity-inconsistent products. Specifically, the research aims to explore what happens when identity projects goes wrong. Identity projects is the theory that consumers actively seek to create, enhance, transform or maintain a sense of identity (Belk 1999). Much research in the literature focuses on how identity constructs help consumers positively while the research on the stigmatisation of individual responsibility of ‘wrong identity’ remains scarce (Larsen and Patterson, 2018). This research borrows the theory of neutralisation (Sykes and Matza, 1957) from criminological studies to explore what happens when identity projectsion goes wrong. Specifically, the research seeks to investigate how consumers view and justify their identity- inconsistent purchases. Despite its popularity, the theorisation of neutralisation is still largely understudied. The majority of research on neutralisation tends to only focus on additional techniques, while the question of where these techniques are intended for is left unasked (Maruna and Copes, 2005). This research aims to enrich the literature by investigating the function and purposes of each neutralising technique in consumer behaviour. Using 48 semi-structured in-depth interviews on 24 female university students’ fashion consumption, the findings confirm that neutralising techniques have been used widely to shield consumers from the guilt arising from identity-inconsistent consumption. Further analysis indicates consumers do not always relate consumption with their identity projects, thus challenging identity projects’s strong position in terms of an ‘active concern of identity creation’. Rather, through the technique of neutralisation, consumers create a sense of narrative for future identity inconsistent consumption. 3 4 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The completion of this doctoral research could not be finished without helps from others. Therefore, I would like to show my appreciations to: My director of study Professor Tim Hughes and supervisor Dr Fiona Spotswood, for their continuous support, encouragement and feedback; My 24 participants for their time and effort in completing the 48 interviews. Particularly I wish to thank Anastasia Voronkova for her constructive critiques on data analysis; My parents for all the mental support; My partner Robert Brooks for putting up with me throughout the journey; And special thanks to Piccolino, Soya, Hina and Pixel for being wonderful pets to see me through the difficult years of my PhD. Thanks coffee! 5 Abbreviation list In alphabetic order ASA – Asian AtHL – Appeal to higher loyalties AtAV – Appeal to alternative values CDSER – Comparison-driven self-evaluation and restoration CtC – Condemnation of condemners DoI – Denial of injury DoOF – Denial of original form DoR – Denial of responsibility DoV – Denial of victim EUR – European LARPING – Live action role playing NT – Neutralisation techniques PG – Postgraduate UG – Undergraduate 6 Style list In alphabetic order Bohemian – Although it embraces a sense of flowing liberty in décor choices and can be associated with eclectic style, Bohemian style is more than that. The word “Bohemian” comes from the French word for “gypsy,” and it applies to those who live unconventional (usually artistic) lives examples. Hipster – A hipster is someone whose fashion choices and music interests fall outside the mainstream. In the 1960s, hipster mainly referred to low- slung, hiphugging pants, but by the 1990s it described an urban subculture made up mostly of young and educated bohemian types living in gentrified neighbourhoods. Lolita – is a fashion subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by Victorian and Edwardian children's clothing and styles from the Rococo period. A very distinctive property of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic of cuteness. This clothing subculture can be categorized into three main substyles: 'gothic', 'classic', and 'sweet’ Mori – 'Mori' means forest in Japanese, and mori girls look like fairytale forest wanderers in their loose dresses, vintage prints and quaint accessories. Mori girls choose to live their lives on their own terms, stopping to appreciate the little things that others overlook amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life. Normcore – Normcore is a unisex fashion trend characterized by unpretentious, normal-looking clothing. Preppy – Preppy is a subculture in the United States associated with old private North-eastern university-preparatory schools. The terms are used to denote a person seen as characteristic of a student or alumnus of these schools. Characteristics of preps in the past include a particular subcultural speech, vocabulary, dress, mannerisms, etiquette, reflective of an upper-class upbringing. Tomboy – A tomboy is a girl who exhibits characteristics or behaviours considered typical of a boy, including wearing masculine clothing and 7 engaging in games and activities that are physical in nature and are considered in many cultures to be unfeminine or the domain of boys (Source: Wikipedia) 8 Contents Abstract ...................................................................................................... 3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ................................................................................. 5 Abbreviation list .......................................................................................... 6 Style list ...................................................................................................... 7 Preface ...................................................................................................... 13 Chapter 1 Introduction .............................................................................. 16 1.1 Introduction – Consumption and identity research .......................... 16 1.2 Problem identification and research questions ................................ 20 1.3 Contributions .................................................................................. 23 1.4 Doctoral research overview ............................................................. 24 Chapter 2 Literature review ...................................................................... 27 2.1 Introduction – self, identity and consumption ................................. 27 2.2 Approaches to self-identity and consumption ................................. 35 2.2.1 The personal sense of self – extended self into possessions ....................................................................................... 35 2.2.2 Multiple identities .................................................................... 41 2.2.3 Social identity ........................................................................... 47 2.2.4 Identity consumption in marketplace ....................................... 52 2.3 Neutralisation theory ...................................................................... 56 2.3.1 Introduction.............................................................................. 56 2.3.2 Theory of neutralisation in criminology .................................... 57 2.3.3 Problems of neutralisation theory research .............................. 60 2.3.4 The Potential of neutralisation.................................................. 64 2.2.5 Theory of neutralisation in consumer research ......................... 70 Chapter 3 Methodology ............................................................................ 81 3.1 Research aim and research questions .............................................. 81 9 3.2 Research philosophy........................................................................ 81 3.2.1 Introduction.............................................................................. 81 3.2.2 Philosophical assumptions ........................................................ 82 3.2.3 The role of theory ..................................................................... 90 3.2.4 Conclusion ................................................................................ 93 3.3 Research methods and procedures ................................................. 94 3.3.1 Recruiting procedures............................................................... 95 3.3.2 First in-depth semi-structured interview ................................. 102 3.3 Data management and analysis ..................................................... 107 3.4 Research Rigour............................................................................. 109 3.4.1 Validity ................................................................................... 110 3.4.2 Relevance ............................................................................... 113 3.4.3 Reflexivity ............................................................................... 114 3.4.4 A reflexive account ................................................................. 116 3.4.5 Research Ethics ....................................................................... 118 3.5 Summary ....................................................................................... 119 Chapter 4 Research