Turtle Guide by Ramza

Turtle Guide by Ramza: COMPLETE --v1.0, updated on May 26, 2004 at 10:49PM First version --v1.5, updated on June 10, 2004 at 4:41PM Added Long Range/UHA section Added Advanced SS section Added Fighting Process section Added new data in Chapter 1 Changed order of chapters Fixed inaccurate data

Foreword- I have been working on this for quite some time (since the day I came to GunBound-HQ.com), even when I didn’t realize it. My skill has set a new standard and inspired several dozen people to use Turtle. I am very glad to be what I am today, and also very proud of what I’ve accomplished with my time on GunBound. Unfortunately, GBHQ announced its closing just a week ago, so it was not there to see the release of the final composition of all my skill that I have accumulated until this minute. This is dedicated to Cazesudo, and everyone at GunBound-HQ.com.

Legal Junk- All of the data in this document is composed by me and my affiliates at GunBound-HQ.com and GBGL- HQ.com. It is not to be taken and used under anyone else’s name, trademark, copyright, etc. without my permission. You may, as in individual, save this onto your computer or post it on another forum, but can never be credited to or by anyone else except me. If you have any questions, my e-mail is [email protected] or [email protected].

Disclaimer: You may distribute this guide only under these conditions: 1) This guide remains COMPLETELY UNALTERED. 2) Credit is given to me for compiling it by using [email protected] or [email protected]. 3) No monetary/barter/farm animals type compensation/gain shall be received for this guide without my written in detail permission. 4) This guide shall not be published by or in any magazine/periodical/manual/instruction/guidebook in an altered (back to condition 1 you dogs) or unaltered state without my express written permission. 5) I would prefer for you to email me (subject includes: Turtle Guide) if you decide to post this guide on your site. This is not necessary BUT if you do post this guide on your webspace (not merely a link to someone else's webspace) and tell me and I will then be able to put a link to your site in the next version of my guide.

Table of Contents- Chapter 1: Turtles in General -Chapter 6: Miscellaneous Techniques Chapter 2: Reading and Fighting -Chapter 7: The Final Techniques Chapter 3: Melee Moves -Chapter 8: The Fighting Process Chapter 4: Midrange Pummeling -Chapter 9: Sharpening the Final Techniques Chapter 5: Long Range and High/Ultra High Angling

Techniques- These techniques are all possible and most can be done with enough practice, and my apprentices and I are living proof of the legitimacy of these techs. All of these techniques are given specific names to my liking, but it isn’t really an ‘official move’ that the GIS team created. I just gave them names to identify them and teach them. In any case, these techniques are going to be used whenever you use Turtle in GunBound. Some more often than others, and some only in certain situations. Nevertheless, these techniques must be practiced long and hard, otherwise... well, you’ll suck at Turtle. *Note: I mention these techniques in the order I believe is ideally the best order to learn them in, but this is only my personal opinion. The most important thing about using a mobile is that you like it and should learn it the way you feel is most comfortable or most effective for you.

Chapter 1: Turtles in General We usually picture a Turtle as a slow, hard-shelled easy target, but in GunBound, it’s a much different story. Turtle can annihilate most mobiles in GunBound with relative ease, and has overall, a balanced set of capabilities to match even the so-called “best mobiles” for a certain type of shooting, such as JD for high angle, or Ice for delay control. Turtles are considered one of the hardest aspects of GunBound, and many fail to master this mobile without thinking about quitting it once in awhile, because it does take much work and experience in order to attain full potential. Once that is reached, one will be quite the opponent.

Shot 1- Your average projectile. It is an average weight, which means it will be in the grey area of being sensitive to wind and not sensitive. It does very little splash damage on an indirect hit (1-25), but great for forcing the target to move. A direct hit will cause an avg. of 150 damage (ignore weakness and resistance), so there’s really nothing special about this shot except for forcing a move on your enemy. It has 740 delay, which is fairly low for the damage.

Shot 2- This is where it gets tricky; your shot 2 is a double shot 1, and the two projectiles criss-cross each other in a consistent pattern (sin and cosin, DNA helix) for 3 seconds, then converges into a line. It is a great damage dealer at long and short range alike, and creates two small holes that cuts into the land, similar to Boomer. It has 890 delay, which is cutting it, but deals great damage during Thor or other weather effects.

Turtles do have their enemies. Turtles do not like Naks, JDs (DataSlycer), Armors and especially A.Sates. On the other hand, Turtles love to annihilate Grubs, Lightnings, and Adukas. Turtle is a Hit type Creature type, which means that it has no shield, no electricity, and no explosion. Hit types get a 4% damage bonus against Electric and Shielded type mobiles. Turtle also gets 4% defense against Electric type mobiles. It gets a minus 4% defense against Laser type weapons.

Chapter 2: Reading and Fighting Turtles are a very unique mobile. For instance, it is the only entirely green mobile in the game. That’s obvious, but behind this veil of green lays a hidden power that takes a lot of work to unlock.

First off, Turtle is pretty much what you think of it. It has low movement, high delay per second, and all of that ugly crap. That is why it is very important to understand this chapter. Turtle involves a massive amount of delay control, reading during battling and under pressure, and most of all, trying to achieve maximum damage potential while doing the above so you don’t get utterly destroyed. Sounds like fun so far, doesn’t it.

Turtle shot weight is average, making it somewhat sensitive to wind, but on the other hand, not as much as I could be. It shoots water, which is a hit type, so it technically is a really huge fire hose (ouch!) that has an unlimited supply of water. You want to always be aware of your current environment, such as wind, upcoming weather effects, your angle, and all the other things you can think of. Reading your environment will become essential as you progress in skill and learn new techniques.

Chapter 3: Melee Moves

Technique 1- Slugshot [Action] (formerly known as “The 70 Shot”) The slugshot is a fairly easy shot to do. Although it is simple, most Turtle users take long to figure out the kinks and problems they don’t realize they face when they try to perform this shot. A lot of people consider shotgunning over using this technique, but it is much more useful than shotgunning for these reasons: first of all, you don’t need a slope to do it. Shotgunning requires a slope to get a good straight line of fire into the target, and that isn’t always readily available. Secondly, if you are using Dual+, everyone knows to use shot 1 first to conserve delay. If you shotgun a Dual+, it will unfortunately lower the target because of land damage and your second shot will fly over their head. Slugshot fixes this problem almost 100% of the time you use a Dual+. Finally, this can be used at point blank range (head- to-head touching distance) with minimum recoil. If you shotgun at this range, you’ll more than likely do 100+ damage to yourself, but slugshot will lower this recoil to under 100 or so.

How to do it- Slugshot can be done in most situations, and is especially needed when you can’t shotgun. Use shot 2 for this shot, unless using a Dual+. First of all, you need to look at the wind. The wind will determine the overall power of your shot. Secondly, you should set your angle upon the distance of your target. Slugshot has a maximum range, as does shotgun, so you need to be careful. Your angle range for this shot is usually 40-60, depending on the distance of the target and wind. If they are about 1 inch away from you, a good angle to use would be in 48-51. As for power, you’ll need to keep it around the first dot (1 bar). This is also dependent on wind and distance. If the wind is 0 and the distance is 1 inch, you would most likely use 0.6 or 0.7 bars of power. Make a nice winding curve of a shot into your enemy. A successful hit would be 200+ damage without weather effects.

Explanation of the shot- As you may have noticed, shot 2 is a ‘helix’ (Bravodor), which means that it swirls around in an organized pattern, then converges after 3 seconds of time have elapsed. When you use this shot at a melee range, the pattern is greatly magnified, so it can be read easily. Within this helix is what I like to call a ‘hot zone’ Imagine it as a small circle the size of a marble moving along with the head of the shot. Within this hot zone is where the helix constantly criss-crosses. The first stream will hit the enemy, and since the enemy is within the hot zone, the other stream will rotate into them because the target allows no room for the second stream to maneuver. If a part of them is out of the hot zone, that produces a miss, more commonly called “flying over their head” or “hitting the rocks next to them.” This is usually caused by a misread of wind, or a wrong power amount.

Technique 2- Delay Control [Passive Action] Delay control is extremely crucial to a successful melee combat. If you don’t conserve your delay, you will give the initiative (DataSlycer) to the enemy, thus giving them the upper hand in combat; especially since you’re using a Turtle, your delay conservation is a little bit tougher to manage. First, you must beat them in the delay race. If your turn goes after them, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing; it can lead to a better initiative, and gives you a better chance of outdamaging your opponent or them making a stupid move. You usually should never use shot 2 or an item (unless some sort of teleport) on your first turn, otherwise that means you lose the delay race. Once you fire them with shot 1 on your first turn (or a shot 2 if they used a high-delay item), you will get a turn after your opponent, and that’s when you start pummeling them with a Dual+, a PowerUp, or another sort of low-delay item. If you didn’t get to go before they do, then try to outdamage them without using an item for a short while using shot 2. When a weather effect like Thor or Lightning comes your way, that’s when you start using an item to outdamage them most efficiently. If there isn’t any weather effect coming soon, keep doing shot 2 or shot 1 to conserve delay, and if you feel the need, put some distance between yourself and your opponent. Try to mess up their delay by messing up their angle, which forces them to move and use their precious seconds. If you feel you’re getting outdamaged and can’t recover, teleport.

Chapter 4: Midrange Pummeling Midrange is probably the most accurate and damaging at the same time at distance. It isn’t too far, but isn’t too close either. The general idea of midrange is to keep things simple; never use an angle higher than you need to for shot 2, and keep a distance between yourself and your enemy to dodge their attacks. You’ll want to get a high enough angle so that you get 3 seconds of airtime, which is when your shot 2 converges. Once you’ve got that down, you want to start using items, looking at the weather, and anything else you think you might need for pummeling them at midrange. Dual+ is effective, as long as you pay attention to wind oscillations (small 1, 2, 3 wind changing) and know almost for certain that you won’t miss because of these small factors. Since shot 2 converges, it can shoot over walls and other obstacles as long as you’ve got a high enough angle. If they hide, either use shot 2 and bring death from above, or simply break the obstacle with shot 1. Most of the time, your target will stay within the same firing vicinity as you’ve always been shooting at. In this case, you can mess up their delay by forcing them to move. You can do this by using either shot and breaking the land next to them, which messes up their angle and forces them to move and recover. Again, you should always keep a just high enough angle so that your shot 2 converges, that way you have it readily available instead of making a sudden adjustment of angle and power.

As for wind reading, this is where it starts becoming more important. Wind is ultimately effect where your shot will land, your power, and your angle. Here is a simple wind chart to generally determine your angle. Assume your position of the left of the map:

(14) YOU ______TARGET

KEY: A normal midrange angle- 50-69 Somewhat- 3-7 angle difference Slightly- 5-11 angle difference Definitely- 6-13 angle difference

Upwind- Somewhat lower than a null wind normal midrange angle Downwind- Slightly higher than a null wind normal midrange angle Tailwind (assisting wind)- Slightly higher than a null wind normal midrange angle Headwind (opposing wind)- Somewhat higher than a null wind normal midrange angle

Up & left- Slightly higher than a null wind normal midrange angle Up & right- Slightly lower than a null wind normal midrange angle Down & left- Somewhat or slightly higher than a null wind normal midrange angle Down & right- Definitely higher than a null wind normal midrange angle

This is an estimation of what your angle would look like. A normal midrange angle will vary upon the distance between you and your enemy, but the changes will generally remain the same as far as wind. Remember to conserve delay and pay attention to the environment. Use low delay items like Dual+ and PowerUp, and you’re all set on midrange.

Chapter 5: Long Range and High/Ultra High Angling This is your best option at beyond-midrange angles. If you’re finding it hard to hit the target using a midrange angle, UHA is a good choice. It is easy to maneuver as far as adjusting for wind oscillations, and power adjusting will become natural. UHA is also probably your next best option to finish the enemy off after pulling a good SS (or completely missing it and waiting for a reload). If you’re in a close range map like Cave, then UHA isn’t that great of an idea unless you’re in a deep hole.

Technique 3- Power Barring [Passive Action] It’s not very nice if you miss your mark by less than 1cm, and it definitely isn’t nice if you miss because the wind changed by 1. Power Barring is a technique that becomes natural as more UHA shots are done. It is a problem that you will encounter 99% of the time you UHA. Power Barring is basically using measured increments of power adjustment to hit your target, even if they move and even if the wind changes by 1. How to do it- Power Barring is pretty general. If you missed your target by less than one-fourth of an inch, this is called a “one power miss” or a “one wind miss.” The power increments are interchangeable with the wind power; 1 power = 1 point of wind. If you missed with an undershot (shooting and not reaching), then you would lower your angle by 1 and lower power in return to fix the angle change. One angle point is equal to about 3-4 power, assuming a null wind. If you overshot a miss, which is more common, then lower power by 1. When measuring a miss, DO NOT measure the size of the edge crater. Instead, watch where the shot lands, or if you missed it, measure it from the distance from the CENTER of the crater. If you happen to miss by half an inch, you need to do both power AND angle change. Adjust your angle accordingly (overshot or short shot) by 1, since it’s only half an inch, then lower power by 1-3 power according to wind oscillations. Great for getting ‘WTFHAX’ when you use a Dual+ after a miss.

Explanation of the shot- One point of power is also known as 0.1 power, one-tenth power, etc. My way of measuring it is using the slice bar example: ______V Half power SLICE [------|------|-|------|------] [______^ Power fix______]

If you used half power (the second marker), and missed by JUST a little, you would want to get a little slice of power by releasing the spacebar a little late to achieve this small increment of power. That increment is equal to what I call 1 power. Since 1 wind is also equal to 1 power, you would simply adjust if the wind changes by 1 or 2 or 3, by using this increment. I suggest using Dragshot to save time, and to get used to the wobble of it and make yourself accurate. UHA needs to be quick and deadly, but don’t rush to calculate the increments on the spot or to drag your mouse really fast, otherwise you’ll probably miss or hit full power by accident.

Chapter 6: Miscellaneous Techniques These techniques won’t be used very often, but when the time comes you’ll need these as an option. These aren’t as tough to master, and they won’t be life threatening if you don’t practice them all the time, but practice them anyway so you don’t run into a situation with a rock and a hard place.

Technique 4- Sniper [Action] This shot is somewhat similar to shotgunning, except at long ranges and usually only with shot 1. Imagine yourself on Adium Root, where you and your enemy are on the edges on the map. You set yourself on a slope and fire away at full power using Dragshot.

How to do it- This is pretty much self-explanatory, but there are still a few kinks to figure out when you start using this. An ideal map is Sea of Hero and Adium Root, where the outskirts of the map have slopes for you to set yourself on for sniping. First of all, your angle should be pretty low, depending on how far your target is and how high they are. If they are parallel to you, then that’s no problem; you can use an angle you feel will hit. To give some numbers, your angle will usually be from 07-29 in most situations. You want to have a direct line of fire across the map, then raise your angle by 5+ because of gravity. If there is downwind, then you obviously need to raise it a bit more, and upwind would mean not raising it at all, or even lowering it. Tailwind usually means a very small decrease and a headwind a slight increase. Once you think you have a correct angle, use dragshot and blast at full power. If you miss by hitting right below them, raise your angle by 1-3, and vice versa if you hit just above them. The vertical size of 1 angle would be about 1cm, or the a bit shorter than a length of a staple.

Explanation of the shot- This is what you would imagine it to be. If you’ve ever played Worms or Counter-Strike, you can pretty much sum up in your mind what this is without even half thinking about it. There isn’t really much to explain for this shot, except that you need to be careful about wind reading and angle changing. Technique 5- Impossible Shotgun [Action] This technique is very similar to the Slugshot. It is based on the exact same ethics and such, so if you didn’t take the time to read Melee Moves, you’re pretty much screwed on this one.

How to do it- This is basically a less versatile version of the Slugshot, but it comes in handy in special situations where Slugshot won’t work. It generally points in 3 different directions. Diagonal-up, diagonal-down, and forward. The maximum range is about three-fourths to one inch, and beyond that you probably won’t use it or Slugshot works, and at that point this technique becomes useless again. How to do it is just like Slugshot. The only difference between this and Slugshot is the maximum range and different situational usage. If you do it correctly, both streams will hit the target at almost the same time. This is so because on the very first spiral of the helix, it goes outward and if you measure a screenshot it is about half an inch long. Once you fire, it will go outwards as I just explained, and then close into the enemy since the streams intersect each other in the hot zone. If you look carefully, you’ll be able to see what I’m talking about. To shoot downward, your target will probably be right below you. If there are rocks about, you’ll more than likely hit them because you use really low power. If you shoot it correctly, both streams will hit, again because of the spiral. This technique is somewhat unreliable unless you are shooting forward or upward. To shoot upward, it’s just like Slugshot. Aim a little higher than their head, and use a power you think will land both streams. Depending on how high they are, you’ll use a different power, like in Meta Mine B, you would use a 70-80 angle and 2.7 bars of power.

Explanation of the shot- The most explaining I need to do is this: This is a very situational shot you will probably end up using in only 10-15% of your games. When the need arises, you should rely mostly on your Slugshot instincts and in certain cases, midrange instincts to guide you. There isn’t any real way of performing this shot because again, it is very situational.

Chapter 7: The Final Techniques This is the chapter you’ve all been waiting for. This, my friend, is the SS portion of the guide. This section will tell you how to use the SS in its most destructive manner, dealing up to 700+ damage on avatar off (my personal record is -702). Before you learn this, you should already be proficient in midrange and basic wind-power-angle reading. Once that is done, this is your final technique, and it’s all you ever dreamed of using to kick ass in GunBound.

*Note: The official GunBound name for SS is actually “Special Skill”, but I call it “Secret Shot” because it is really hard to master, thus making it ‘the secret of the Turtle.’

Final Technique- SS (Secret Shot) The SS is probably the hardest and the most phenomenal shot of the game. It can deal insane amounts of damage when performed correctly, and you usually get a lot of “WTF” and “OMFG PRO” from team mates and enemies alike. The SS uses mostly your midrange shooting skills. Without this, you’re pretty much pooped until you get good at midrange. The SS is capable of doing about 500-600 in avatar off. If you have Lightning weather effect, 700 without breaking a sweat. That is, if you do a perfect SS. The SS is mostly used as a damage dealer instead of a killer blow. Although you may use is as that sometimes for fun, it is generally used to outdamage your enemy from long distances.

How to do it- As you may have noticed, I mentioned midrange several times. That’s because, the SS is midrange shooting. First, it is absolutely critical that you pay attention to the surrounding environment. Take note of the exact wind, the upcoming weather effects, such as hurricanes and meteors, and take note of your current angle. In the Midrange Pummeling section, I said to use an angle just high enough to get a 3 second time elapse, so your shot 2 can combine and do good damage. This is the same concept. Try to get a low enough angle just barely enough for 3 seconds to pass, then comes the tricky part. Timing is essential for this shot to work, and unfortunately it is the hardest part to master for this shot. You should test shot with shot 1, and count to 3 while your shot is in midair. While you’re test shooting, you’ll have midair ‘checkpoints’ you can use to make your SS accurate. The first checkpoint is a sound effect. When you shoot, it will make a “SSSSSS” sound. That’s when you start your count, and that’s what you count as the ‘1’ second. Continue counting normally, starting with ‘1’ on the sound effect of your shot. The last checkpoint is the impact of your shot on your target. It will make a splashing noise, but do not count that as 3, but rather continue counting normally and ignore the splash as any part of your timing. This last checkpoint is to check the integrity of your SS. If you say ‘3’ and it splashes immediately afterwards, you have a good SS. If it splashes and you say ‘3’, it will hit your target without opening. If you say ‘3’ and it splashes a little bit afterwards, it will open too early and only 3 or 4 of the bubbles will hit.

Timing Exercise- I mentioned about counting to 3 seconds. This is extremely important for your SS ability. You want to count exactly like a clock, no faster and no slower. Your turn timer on the top right hand side of your screen when it’s your turn is a good example. To improve your consistency with time, look at your turn timer for a few seconds, and count with it up to 3, i.e. 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, until you feel you’ve got the consistency of it. Once you have that down, make a Jewel SS Death game with a friend. Pass until SS Death comes, then get a high angle in the 80’s. Have the number ‘3’ on your text bar so it can be entered by pressing enter. Next, use dragshot to full power an SS into the air, and press enter when you think 3 seconds have elapsed. Keep doing this until you almost completely or completely match the SS opening sequence. You’ll know this when you press enter and the SS opens the moment you press enter. The SS give a little interval of time before it deploys, so that’s when you press enter.

Explanation of the shot- The SS is pretty simple to observe. It is one huge water bubble, and after 3 seconds have elapsed, it will ‘deploy’ or open up and turn into 6 smaller water bubbles, each dealing about 70-100 damage. The main reason for the high damage is this: imagine getting hit by a shotgun at point blank range. This is the same concept with the 6 projectiles. Deploying at long ranges, your chances of hitting are higher, but does only 100 or 200 damage for 1300+ delay. If it deploys in front of their face… well, you know the rest.

Chapter 8: The Fighting Process This chapter is the fighting process of Turtle that I’ve developed. You may find if familiar if you’ve specialized another mobile, but it is probably really different on the inside. Here is a simplified list of the Turtle fighting process:

SS, UHA, MR, ME, FL a.k.a. Secret Shot, Ultra High Angle, Midrange, Melee, Flee

The chart will get more and more complicated as you learn new techniques and skills, and will look something like this:

SS— -Determine angle, distance, and weather effects -Increase integrity of the SS (damage potential) -Adjust if target moves -Switch to MR or ME if there is no possible UHA -Do not SS in a tough position; switch to other tactic if needed

UHA— -Get an angle by moving or making one -Calculate distance, then angle and fire at full power using Drag -Use delay control on items used -Pay close attention to wind oscillations -Switch to MR after 3 or 4 turns of UHA if possible

MR— -Use an angle barely high enough to get shot 2 in clearly -Always count your shots as if counting for SS, even if shot 1 or shot 2 or item -Immediately SS after it reloads or after one more test shot -Pay attention to when Sudden Death is coming -If low on HP, hide and switch to UHA

ME— -Don’t use shot 2 on first turn, unless there is weather effect, then use Dual+, PowerUp, or Shovel (Delay Control) -Don’t use item on first turn (unless teleporting) -Try to outdamage them whenever possible -Don’t go on an item spree (using item on a turn after you used an item on the previous turn) -Use as little time as possible to pull a shot -Flee if clearly being outdamaged, or highly outdelayed

FL— -If you are in a hole -If you are being teamed on -If you have no clear shot -If you are crowded in with your team mates -If you are crowded in with your opponents

And believe me; it gets even more complicated, even after you’ve learned the SS. If you plan on using Turtle for a long period of time, then it can become massive, maybe twice as long as the one displayed here. The main reason for having this fighting process is to have an easy-to-remember guideline of how to fight, when to do what, and how to pull off an organized fight. If you get stuck with crappy teammates, this can save your life. Don’t be forced to follow this fighting process all the time. It was made to be versatile, and that’s just what it is. It is made so that you can switch around tactics in any order and at any time according to your battle plan. It can help in situational circumstances when you don’t know what to do.

Chapter 9: Sharpening the Final Techniques This is probably the ultimate skill you can learn with Turtle, or with any other mobile. I particularly use this with the Turtle SS because it comes in really handy if your opponent decides to run around in circles to dodge your SS. If it were possible to calculate the amount of movement and adjust accordingly with angle and power, then it is quite possible to land a perfect SS even if they move 1 or 2 inches away from your initial test shot. Unfortunately, this section will be massively updated because I have no fixed numbers, and it just so happens that you need fixed numbers. This will be an ongoing project as I will figure out movement distances, angle adjustment distances, and power adjustment distances.

First of all, the important thing is that you already know how to SS. If you don’t, do not bother reading this section and intend to learn it. Everyone knows that the first thing you have to do is make a test shot. Say your opponent is a JD that knows how a pro Turtle works. Now he will move away from me to try and thwart my SS efforts. Say he moves a distance equal to 2 JD lengths. Now, since they moved away, it is natural for me to lower my angle, and that’s just what we’ll do. 2 JD lengths is about three-fourths of an inch, so I would lower it by 2 or 3 angle points and, like mauvecow, lower my power in return so I do not overshoot. Since the angle adjustment is so small, you don’t need to lower power by that much. In exchange for 1 angle, you would lower it by 1-2 power, and it is usually 1:1 for angle:power. Also like mauvecow, he says that power affects airtime. Since airtime determines the integrity of the SS, you need a perfect count to hit a good SS. This is why we lower the angle and power. You want to keep it at a fixed position of 3 seconds which includes the distance of the target, power, and angle. Since in this situation the target moved back, SSing them with the same angle and more power would just lead to a failure. If you push the line of where the SS deploys, that’s when you achieve a good SS. The lower the angle, the farther the “Line of Deployment.” KEY | = Line of Deployment X = target T = You

Assume power is always 2.5— T-angle=61______| ______X T-angle=50______| __ X T-angle=46______|X T-angle=39______X ___ |

This concludes “Turtle Guide by Ramza: COMPLETE.” Please refer back to http://www.gbgl-hq.com for any new updates.

Special thanks to: Tenki, kiwibonga, Dataslycer, mauvecow, creedo, Bravodor, all of the Turtle apprentices, BB’s Special Killer Moves (my guild), all of GunBound-HQ.com, all of GunBound Guild League (GBGL-HQ.com), and some guy who taught me the SS a really, really long time ago and inspiring me to use Turtle forever. <<< LIEK OMG

Turtle is not an easy process. It will become very frustrating, and you will often become discouraged, especially during certain learning phases such as the SS. If you persevere, your efforts will go far beyond most mobiles, so please, don’t give up. It’s not healthy.