Lee County Rules for 2011
Saturday, July 9th, 2011 – 7:00 p.m.
Fair board member in charge of derby: Les Roth (319) 931-3474
For questions on car preparations contact Chad Stuecker (319) 795-3948 Travis Kramer (319) 795-2804
There are some new car building rules this year (for the better) so read them and good luck!!!
CLASSES:
80’s and Newer/ Old Iron 1st $1000, 2nd $650, 3rd $375, 4th $250, 5th 150 (these will be run together with an additional $300 going to the highest placing 80’s and Newer--- which means you could win up to $1300)
Trucks 1st $850, 2nd $550, 3rd $375, 4th $250, 5th $150
Compacts 1st $750, 2nd $500, 3rd $350, 4th $150, 5th $75
Mid-Size 1st $750, 2nd $500, 3rd $350, 4th $150, 5th $75 (AMC Pacers, Gremlins, Spirits, etc will be allowed to run in this class)
There is a 10 car minimum (per class) to receive full payout.
All cars and trucks must be thru the line and inspected by 5:30. Be early & on time or you will not run. Gates open at 2:00.
First and foremost: NO REINFORCING OF THE FRAMES OR BODIES OF ANY KIND! Read the rules and abide by them. We will be firm but fair!!!!!!
GENERAL RULES
1) All rules will be followed or you will not run! 2) If your car does not pass inspection you will be given one chance to fix or change what is wrong and come back thru inspection. (once) 3) Drivers must be 18 yrs of age and have a valid drivers license. Ages 16 & 17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of drivers license. 4) The person who signs in the car must be the driver for the event. 5) Drivers must wear seatbelt, helmet, and eye protection of some sort at all times (long sleeve shirts & fire suits are recommended). All drivers must sign the waiver & entry form before competing. 6) Drivers must remain in the vehicle with seatbelt, helmet, and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit. 7) Do not hit the driver’s door! Sometimes it happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield. You will be disqualified for repeated use. 8) No sandbagging or holding. 9) You must make an aggressive hit/contact within 60 seconds. You will be given 1 minute for restarts and for hang-ups. 10) If you have 2 fires of any kind that require extinguished, you will be disqualified. 11) No covering the underside of your car with mud. No painting, undercoating, or greasing of the frames. If you do, you will not be inspected and you will not run. 12) No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it to an idle. 13) No alcohol in the pits. Any driver or crew member caught with alcohol will be disqualified. 14) Cars are subject to re-inspection prior to any prize money being handed out. 15) All drivers & crew members must attend the drivers meeting. 16) Any questions or controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. 17) Any questions give us a call first. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. 18) Officials’ decision is final! 19) Hoods must be opened for inspection.
GENERAL CAR PREPARATIONS (applies to all the classes)
1) All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in rules. THIS MEANS NO REINFORCING OF THE FRAMES OR BODIES! (no plating or adding gussets, no welding on the frame seams, no frame stuffing or cement, etc). 2) All glass, plastic, chrome, pot metal and interior must be removed. 3) All decking in station wagons must be removed. 4) Clean all glass and junk out of the bottom of the doors and trunk. 5) All flammable materials must be removed except for safety padding & drivers seat. 6) No mud, fresh painting, undercoating, or greasing of the frames. 7) Tires no bigger than 15”. No split rims. Foam filled or doubled tires OK- we don’t want any flats. Valve stem protectors OK. 8) You must use an OEM radiator and it must be in the stock location. Over-flow coolant hose must point down. 9) All cars must have working brakes. 10) A-arms, ball joints, and tie rods must remain stock. 11) All trailer hitches and bracing must be removed. 12) Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank, or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured & covered with a rubber mat (no carpet or cloth). NO GAS CANS! Plastic gas tanks must be covered with a metal shield. Fuel line must be properly secured. No fuel lines hanging under the car (keep them away from the exhaust). Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in center of car. If you need to use the org. tank, do to the fuel injection system, you will be allowed to. Just make sure it is properly secured and covered. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when car is shut off, it shuts off. 13) Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 14) Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard (close to transmission). They must be properly secured and covered. 15) No distributor protectors. You may cut a hole in the firewall. 16) For driver’s protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost. You must also have a windshield bar (from the roof to the dash). 17) All vehicles must have a roof sign displaying their number (minimum 15x15). You must also paint your number in bright, contrasting colors on both the drivers’ door and the front passenger door. This is required for judging & recognition.
COMPACT CARS
Prize money : 1st $750, 2nd $500, 3rd $350, 4th $150, 5th $75
1) Any car that has a wheelbase of 106 inches or less and came factory with a 4 cyl. engine. 2) You may run a 6 cyl. engine but it must be a car that came factory with a 4 cyl. engine. (example: Chevy Celebrity, Ford Fairmont, etc.) 3) No AMC’s! (no Pacers, Gremlins, Spirits, etc) These will be allowed to run in the mid-size class. 4) You may run a 4wd car, but you may only run it in 2wd. (must remove the rear drive shaft etc) 5) You may weld the doors, trunks, and hatches solid (on the outside only). You may use filler rod, (no bigger than 3/8 in diameter), or flat stock, (no wider than 3 inches and no thicker than 1/4 inch), to do so. 6) If you do not weld your doors, trunks, or hatches, you may use #9 wire or chain (no larger than 3/8). (4 places per seam) 7) Hoods must open for inspection. 8) You may bolt your trunk down thru the drip rails using 3/8 or smaller bolts/all-thread. (10 places) 9) You may fold your trunk decks over, but 60% of the deck must be in the factory position. 10) You may lay your trunk lid on the trunk floor and wire it down with #9 wire in 4 places. (3 loops) 11) You may run 2 metal straps or wire from the trunk lid (or tailgate) to the rear bumper. 2” wide by ¼ thick max. 12) You may bolt the hood and trunk outer skins to the inner structure using 1/4 bolts. 13) Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire. 14) You are allowed up to 8 hood bolts, no larger than 1/2 inch in diameter. Six of them may be bolted thru the frame (but not welded to the frame). You must have at least 4. Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. 15) After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max) 16) Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used. DO WHATEVER YOU WANT TO THE INSIDE OF YOUR BUMPERS, BUT THE OUTSIDE MUST REMAIN STOCK APPEARING. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You may weld or bolt (or both) the bumper brackets/towers to the frame. You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to the shock towers. You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them around & weld them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper frame itself. 17) You may not weld the bumper to the body. 18) Do not weld on the frame seams or frame itself. No plating of the frame or body. 19) You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches beyond the rust. 20) You may patch frames with 1/8 thick metal. You must drill ½ dia holes in the plate so we can see the rust behind it. Maximum patch length is 8 inches. No doubling of patches. Four patches max per car. If we feel you are plating the frame just to plate the frame, we will make you cut it off or you will not run. Call first if you have any questions. 21) You may bolt the floor seams together on the inside of the car using 1/4 bolts. 22) You may cut your wheel wells out for clearance and bolt them back together using 3/8 or smaller bolts. (5 plcs) 23) You may weld your rearend. 24) You may foam fill or double your tires. 25) Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock. You may reclamp springs. (4 clamps per spring- homemade or factory). Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You may put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You may wire coil springs in to prevent them from falling out. 26) For drivers’ protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost (no larger than 4 inches in diameter). You must also have a windshield bar (from the roof to the dash). You may run a bar across your dash, which you may connect to the bar behind your seat on the inside of the front doors only. NO KICKERS! You may run a plate on the outside of the drivers door (but it may not be wider than 6 inches and it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams), and you may run a roll-over bar (roll loop).
MID-SIZE CARS
Prize money: 1st $750, 2nd $500, 3rd $350, 4th $150, 5th $75 1) Any car with a wheelbase of 108 inches or less. (example: Chevy Lumina, Monte Carlo, Buick Regal, etc) AMC Pacers, Gremlins, Spirits, etc WILL BE ALLOWED to run in this class. Factory spec wheelbase lengths will be used. 2) You may run any engine and tranny combo that you like. 3) All other compact and general preparation rules apply.
80’S and NEWER/OLD IRON
Prize money: 1st $1000, 2nd 650, 3rd $375, 4th $250, 5th $150
These will be run together with an additional $300 going to the highest placing 80’s and Newer--- which means you could win up to $1300
ABSOLUTELY NO WELDING ON THE FRAME OR BODY OTHER THAN WHAT IS STATED IN THE RULES! IF YOU DO, YOU WILL NOT RUN!!!!!
1) All general rules & general car preparations apply. 2) Any American made sedan or station wagon may run. No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames. No 4X4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc. NO SEDAGONS or WEDGE CARS! 3) No cross breeding of body and frames. Must be correct frame to body combo! 4) No welding on the frame or body other than what is stated below. 5) You may weld the doors, trunk, and tailgate solid (on the outside only). You may use filler rod (no bigger than 3/8 in diameter), or flat stock (no wider than 3 inches, no thicker than 1/4 inch), to do so. 6) No welding of the body seams on the inside of the car. 7) 80 and newer style Fords may cold bend the front end or cut the crush boxes, bend them, and reweld them. JUST WELD THEM—NO ADDING METAL! 8) NEW THIS YEAR!!! 80’s and Newer cars may either weld on hump plates or leaf them. Hump plate dimensions-- ¼ thick by 22 inches long. Plates must be centered, match the contour of the frame (not span the center of the hump), and must be welded on the outside of the frame only. You must drill a ½ hole thru the plate so we can see the thickness of the plate. And if you decide to leaf them—you may put 9 leafs under a wagon and 7 under a sedan. 5/16” MAX THICKNESS, 2 ½” MAX WIDTH, and a 60” MAXIMUM SPRING LENGTH. NO RAPTOR FAB or HOMEMADE LEAF SPRINGS. NO FLAT SPRUNG CARS. Leaf pack must have, at the very minimum, a 2 inch arch. Leafs must stagger down in length, like a factory leaf pack. 9) If you only have 3/8 thick leafs, we are only going to allow you to run 7 leafs under a wagon and 5 leafs under a sedan!!!! 10) OLD IRON MUST RUN THE STOCK SUSPENSION. No converting them to leaf spring. 11) You may reclamp your springs. (5 clamps per spring-2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle) Clamps may be homemade or factory. Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. 12) U-bolts-7/16 max. You must use the stock mounting plates. 13) Rear shackle must mount within 6 inches, of the stock location, of the rear bumper bracket. Rear shackle may not be larger than 4”X 6”X 3/8 and it must be bolted thru the frame, not welded solid. (it must be able to move) 14) You may duct tape your leafs after inspection. 15) If you are running a coil spring car and it is sagging; you may change the coils, double the coils, or add coil spacers to the coils to get your height. 16) Car must have a working suspension and bounce freely. So if you chain your rearends in, (which you may) you must leave enough slack for the suspension to work. NO SOLID SHOCKS! 17) You may bolt your trunk down thru the drip rails using 3/8 or smaller bolts/all-thread. (10 places) 18) You may fold your trunk decks over, but 60% of the deck must be in the factory position. 19) You may lay your trunk lid on the trunk floor and either wire it down with #9 wire in 4 places (3 loops), or bolt it down (using no bigger than 1 inch bolts/all-thread) in 4 places. These may go thru the frame, but don’t weld them to the frame. Washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. Leave these loose until after inspection so we can look in between the trunk lid and the floor. 20) You may run 2 metal straps or wire from the trunk lid (or tailgate) to the rear bumper, to hold on the bumper. 2” wide by ¼ thick max. 21) You may cut your wheel wells out for clearance and bolt them back together, using no larger than 3/8 dia bolts, in 5 places. 22) You may bolt the hood and trunk outer skins to the inner structure using 1/4 bolts. 23) You may weld the top frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward. The weld may not be any wider than 1/2 inch. DO NOT WELD THE BOTTOM SIDE. 24) Buicks, Olds, & Pontiacs may fill the crush hole. (The large hole in the frame behind the radiator support). This must be a butt fit and it must be a one pass weld only. No over-lapping. 25) You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but DO NOT weld the cut. 26) You may remove all the body mounts and sinch the body down against the frame. DO NOT weld the body to the frame. You may use up to 3/4 inch bolts. You may add two body mounts in the rear arches, but they must pass thru the factory frame holes. 27) You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches beyond the rust. 28) You may patch frames with 1/8 thick metal. You must drill ½ dia holes in the plate so we can see the rust behind it. Maximum patch length is 8 inches. No doubling of patches. Four patches max per car. If we feel you are plating the frame just to plate the frame, we will make you cut it off or you will not run. Call first if you have any questions. 29) Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used. DO WHATEVER YOU WANT TO THE INSIDE OF YOUR BUMPERS, BUT THE OUTSIDE MUST REMAIN STOCK APPEARING. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You may weld or bolt (or both) the bumper brackets/towers to the frame. You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to the shock towers. You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them around & weld them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper frame itself. 30) You may not weld the bumper to the body. 31) If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame. 32) Use engine and tranny of choice. Engine must be in the stock location. You may weld (or chain) the motor & tranny in place, but don’t strengthen the frame. Weld the motor mounts to the engine cradle, NOT TO THE FRAME! IF WE FEEL YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS AND CRADLE ARE EXCESSIVE AND ARE STRENGTHENING THE FRAME, YOU WILL FIX THEM OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! 33) No distributor protectors. You may cut a hole in the firewall. 34) SEDANS ONLY, are allowed gas tank protectors. There must be a 1” gap between the back of the bar and the sheet metal. THIS PROTECTOR MAY ONLY BE ATTACHED TO THE BACK SEAT BAR! 35) OEM RADIATORS ONLY. No homemade radiators allowed. No adding cooling capacity or supplemental cooling devices. 36) Use rearend of choice. Must be 5 lug (no 8 bolt rearends made into 5 lug rearends). NO 3/4 TON REARENDS OR FLOATERS. Welded or locked rearends are recommended. 37) You may tilt your rearend, but you must start out with stock trailing arms. NO HOME-MADE ARMS. 38) Hood must open for inspection. 39) Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire. 40) You are allowed up to 8 hood bolts, up to 1 inch in diameter. Six of them may be bolted thru the frame (but not welded to the frame). Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. 41) After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max) 42) For drivers’ protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost (no larger than 4 inches in diameter). You must also have a windshield bar (from the roof to the dash). You may also run a bar across your dash, which you may connect to the bar behind your seat on the inside of the front doors only. NO KICKERS! You may run a plate on the outside of the drivers door (but it may not be wider than 6 inches and it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams), and you may run a roll-over bar (roll loop). 43) Hard top cars may weld a bar /strap from the roof to the doorpost. 44) Reminder NO WELDING ON THE FRAMES OR FRAME SEAMS. No painting, undercoating, or greasing of the frames. Do not cover the underside of your car with mud.
TRUCKS
Prize money : 1st $850, 2nd $550, 3rd $375, 4th $250, 5th $150
1) All general rules & general car preparations apply. 2) Any 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton truck, van, suburban, blazer, or bronco may run. It may be a 4X4, but you may only run in 2 wheel drive. (you must remove a drive shaft) 3) No welding on, or plating of the frame (other than what is stated below). 4) You may box in your front frame rails (from the cradle forward) using metal no thicker than the frame rail itself. You may also run a tube in between the two rails (no bigger than 4 inches in diameter or 4 inch square). NO PLATING OR BOXING IN OF THE FRAME RAIL ANYWHERE ELSE!!!! 5) You may weld your doors and tailgate solid (on both the outside and inside). When welding the inside of the tailgates, you may use angle iron (but no bigger than 2x2 ¼ thick). 6) You may remove all cab and bed mounts and sinch both down against the frame. DO NOT weld the cab or bed to the frame. You may add 4 additional mounting bolts, to both the cab and bed, to secure them to the frame. Bolts may be no larger than 1 inch in diameter. Washers no larger than 5x5x1/2. 7) You may weld your bed to the back of your cab.(filler material no thicker than 1/4 inch) 8) You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches beyond the rust. 9) You may patch frames with 1/8 thick metal. You must drill ½ dia holes in the plate so we can see the rust behind it. Maximum patch length is 8 inches. No doubling of patches. Four patches max per car. If we feel you are plating the frame just to plate the frame, we will make you cut it off or you will not run. Call first if you have any questions. 10) You are allowed up to 8 hood bolts, up to 1 inch in diameter. Six of them may be bolted thru the frame (but not welded to the frame). Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. 11) Hood must open for inspection. 12) Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire. 13) After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max) 14) Any automotive bumper/brackets may be used. DO WHATEVER YOU WANT TO THE INSIDE OF YOUR BUMPERS, BUT THE OUTSIDE MUST REMAIN STOCK APPEARING. No aftermarket or homemade bumpers allowed. 15) Weld your bumpers on good! No plating or gussets when doing so. You may weld or bolt (or both) the bumper brackets/towers to the frame. You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to the shock towers. You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them around & weld them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper frame itself. 16) If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame. 17) You may not weld the bumper to the body. 18) You may run 2 metal straps or wire from the tailgate to the rear bumper, to hold on the bumper. 2” wide by ¼ thick max. 19) A four-sided protective cage is recommended (nothing attached to the frame). You may run a plate on the outside of driver’s door, but it may not be wider than 6 inches and it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams. 20) No cages under the hood or in the beds.