<P<Li>As My Pal Cautious Carl Says, Buy a Nice Watch from Mike .But Keep in Mind

If you like your watches to be uniquely designed and harder to find I suggest you read on about this amazing men’s Gruen “Adjutant” Curvex model. This fancy “Ball” lug, 14k Solid Rose Gold beauty is fully serviced and ready to be worn and enjoyed.

In its glory years from the 1920s through the 1940s, the Gruen Watch Company of USA & Switzerland was one of the leaders in wristwatch design and quality, even collaborating with Rolex (i.e., the Aegler Co. movement duo-dial doctor’s watch) from its factories in Switzerland. Prior to WWII, Gruen was better known in the USA than Rolex, which at that time was concentrating on the British and Commonwealth countries (hence lots of early Rolexes coming out of Australia and the UK). Hans Wilsdorf and Gruen were friends and neighbors in Switzerland (their factories were just yards away), and even agreed to market their watches as Rolex Gruen in Europe, but the Great Depression (and more pressing concerns) prevented this.

I am pleased to offer for sale this beautiful Roman numeral dial ADJUTANT model Curvex, a men’s model dating to ca 1942 and in excellent condition. This model is 14kt Solid Rose Gold (also referred to as pink gold) and was only made in solid gold – the distinguishing feature being its “Ball” lugs.

Triple-signed for Gruen, it measures 35mm end to end and 22mm in width (23.5mm with rose gold winding crown. This works out to be 1-3/8 inches long by 7/8 of an inch in width, not including the winding crown.

This watch is powered by a 17 jewel, 440 Caliber Curvex mechanism, fully serviced by my watchmaker David prior to auction to ensure it winds and sets smoothly - keeping accurate time.

The rose (pink) color, enamel finish dial is in excellent condition, professionally restored to its original status and beautifully done, really topnotch folks as the detailing is perfect. It features a 60 minute outer track border, elegant black enameled Roman numerals and bar indicators, Baton-style hands and a tonneau-form sub- seconds dial with 60 second outer chapter and ‘sweep’ seconds hand. Signed GRUEN CURVEX below the 12 and PRECISION above the seconds dial. It is further signed SWITZERLAND at the base of the dial.

The solid glass crystal is gently curved on all four sides and is in mint condition – removed in some photos to better show the dial without glare. The 14 Karat Solid Rose Gold two-piece case is Tonneau form and in excellent PLUS shape, complete with its BALL lugs and with absolutely no wear. The matching rose gold finished winding crown is unmarked and in excellent shape, operating smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is stamped 14K GOLD at one end and is in excellent shape, free of any wear or personal engravings. Inside is a barrel-shaped curved movement, signed SEVENTEEN 17 JEWELS, PRECISION – GRUEN WATCH CO., CURVEX PATENTED, SWITZERLAND, GXC. It is further stamped “440” on one of the lower plates, the caliber number. he inside of the case is signed Cased and Timed in USA by Gruen Watch Co., Wadsworth, 14K GOLD – 440/499 with case reference number above this. Please note the 440 caliber number also stamped on the case, while the 499 is the dial model number.

This pristine “Adjutant” model Curvex has been cleaned, oiled & regulated so it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It is fitted with a new black alligator calf strap with matching ROSE gold buckle so you’re all set. So have I tempted anyone to bid on this watch yet? Wait, Rick in North Carolina just showed some interest, now Dave in Nevada. I think we may be on to something!

Long before the Bulova Watch Company would become famous the world over, long before there was a Bulova Astronomical Observatory on top of a Fifth Avenue skyscraper, the company existed as a small jewelry store on Maiden Lane in New York City, owned and operated by Joseph Bulova, a Czech immigrant. Some of us now know that a young shop assistant named John Ballard convinced Joseph to start selling watches directly to other retailers, the success of which eventual led to the establishment of watch factories in both Switzerland and the U.S.A. The rest, as they say, is history.

I have been collecting Bulova watches for close to 25 years now and this is just the second time I’ve had this model from 1931 – featuring an offset or parallelogram dial design that is truly unique. If anyone knows the model name of this amazing Art Deco please let me know!

This triple-signed (case, dial and mechanism) Bulova timepiece measures 31mm end to end and 17mm in width (21mm with original sapphire crown). In inches this works out to be just shy of 1-1/4” long by 5/8” wide, winding crown not included and it is fitted on an Art Deco link bracelet with adjustable (sliding) deployment clasp that is a good size – able to fit a wrist up to 7-3/8” with ease. It has been fully serviced by my Bulova- trained watchmaker David to ensure that its 15 jewel, Swiss made Bulova mechanism winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The silver matte enamel finished (over sterling silver) dial is in flawless condition, the original that has been professionally restored to its original status. It features black enameled numerals, a checkered 60 minute inner track border, and original blue steel Spade-style hands. Note the finely engraved center dial – the level of detail is very impressive. It is signed BULOVA below the 12 and embossed SWISS below the 6.

The solid glass crystal is in excellent shape with no scratches. The two-piece, hinged back White Gold filled case is tonneau shaped and a true tour-de-force of Art Deco motifs and engravings – notice the Sunray designs at each corner and also the banding design…all I can say is wow! This case is in excellent condition with no wear or engravings. The original cabochon-sapphire winding crown is a nice dark BLUE that doesn’t really show up well in my photos and it winds and sets smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is in excellent condition with absolutely NO wear or engravings. Peeking inside via the hinged back lid I note that the movement is protected by its own crystal and bezel, a very useful feature of many 1920s Bulova watches that protected it from dust and debris called the “Dust-Tite Protector”. The movement is a clean Tonneau-shaped, Fifteen jewel manual wind model with a three-finger bridge exposing several Ruby jewels. It is signed Bulova Watch Co., [Caliber] 6AF - Fifteen 15 Jewels, Four 4 Adj. - Swiss with company date code for 1931. The inside of the case lid is stamped BULOVA QUALITY – PAT. JUNE 10, 1924 with reference number below. From my original reference materials “Bulova Quality” cases were gold filled cases –likely 10kt gold filled.

This cleaned, oiled & regulated watch winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It is fitted with a correct Art Deco era deployment clasp, ladder link bracelet marked “Duro-Brite” that is a matching color to the rhodium finished case and will fit a wrist up to 7- 3/8” with no problems – smaller as well. If you collect Bulova watches or simply unique Art Deco designs this is one you shouldn’t miss.

Founded by Ernest Francillon and Auguste Agassiz in the year 1832, the Longines Watch Co. of Switzerland was established in the “Long Meadows” (translated: Longines) near the town of St. Imier. Winner of countless horology awards, their wristwatches are among the best in the world, on par with the “big boys” of the Swiss watch making profession including its chief rival Omega.

I am pleased to offer for sale the following vintage Longines timepiece, a men’s 10kt Yellow Gold filled Tank form model that dates to ca 1948. This watch is triple-signed for Longines – on the dial, case and mechanism.

It measures 36mm lug tip to lug tip and 26mm in width (27.5mm with original signed winding crown). This works out to be just over 1-3/8 inches long by just over 1 inch wide, not including the Longines-signed crown. It is powered by its original 17 jewel, manual wind Longines mechanism that has been fully serviced by my trusted watchmaker David to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The black enamel finished dial has been professionally restored and is in excellent condition. It features a 60 minute outer track border, raised gold Roman numerals and ‘dot’ hour markers, original gold metal Baton-style hands and a separate seconds dial (slightly recessed) with ‘sweep’ gold seconds hand. Signed LONGINES below the XII and SWISS at the base of the dial.

The solid glass crystal is in excellent shape with no flaws (removed in some photos to minimize glare). The case is a two-piece design that is 10 Karat Yellow Gold Filled and it is in excellent PLUS shape, complete with angled lugs. A gold filled case from this era had the equivalent of 80 microns of gold thickness on each case section – over ten times what today’s Swiss gold electroplated watches have. The yellow gold finished winding crown (unmarked) is in excellent shape as well, operates smoothly.

Turning the watch over I find that the back lid features a fine satin (brush) finish and is in spotless shape – stamped “10K GOLD FILLED L&K” at one edge. Inside is a clean, fully serviced manual wind mechanism, signed Longines Watch Co., Swiss – Seventeen 17 Jewels [Grade] 10L, LXW with serial number 7,562,889 – dating the watch to ca 1948 per published records. The inside case is stamped LONGINES WITTNAUER WATCH CO. INC. – NEW YORK, GENEVA, MONTREAL – 10K GOLD FILLED, L&K [Model] 13031.

This fine watch has been disassembled, cleaned, oiled and regulated to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. Comes fitted with a new 18mm black deBeer hand finished lizard (grain) calf leather strap with matching color buckle. All in all a great looking, ready to wear late Art Deco timepiece from one of Switzerland’s very best.

My longtime favorite U.S. watch firm is the Elgin National Watch Company, a prolific American firm established in 1864 on 35 acres of land donated by the City of Elgin, Illinois (the factory had a National Street address). It was a strategic location, right next to the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, one of the busiest railways into Chicago, and the Elgin factory would become the focal point of the town.

Elgin would offer its first watch for sale in 1867, marking the beginning of fierce competition with its chief competitor, Waltham, which (ironically) was instrumental in forming Elgin, as two of the original organizers were P.S. Bartlett and D.G. Currier of Waltham fame. Bartlett and Currier would later join the Illinois Watch Co. of Springfield.

When you find a vintage Elgin timepiece like this it’s hard not to appreciate its understated, elegant design - a harder to find Clubman 902 model that dates to 1931. What makes this model unique amongst other watches of the era is its two-tone white and yellow gold case – the bezel and back being white with the center (body) being yellow gold with matching gold winding crown – very Streamline Moderne.

Triple- signed for Elgin, its 14kt White & Yellow Gold Filled case measures mm 39mm lug tip to lug tip and 22mm in width (including the original recessed crown). This works out to be just over 1-1/2 inches long by 7/8 of an inch wide. It has been fully serviced prior to auction and its original Elgin 483 grade, 17 jewel mechanism winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The enamel finished, metal dial is in excellent condition, professionally restored to its original status and beautifully done. It features a 60 minute checkered outer track border, raised gold stylized Art Deco numerals, and original gold metal Spade-tip Elgin hands. Signed ELGIN below the 12.

The solid glass crystal is in mint condition, a new old stock example. The three-piece case is rectilinear form and is comprised of a 14k white gold filled bezel, 14k yellow gold filled body and a 14k white gold filled back lid. This case is in excellent PLUS condition in all respects. The original winding crown is a matching yellow gold-finish and in excellent shape as well, operating smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the 14kt white gold filled back lid is excellent PLUS, free of any wear or engravings past or present. Peeking inside I discover a clean Seventeen 17 Jewel manual wind movement that is signed Elgin, USA – 17 Jewels with serial number #33,547,200, dating this watch to ca 1931. The inside of the case lid is signed Cased and Timed by Elgin National Watch Co., 14K Gold Filled, Wadsworth Quality with case number below.

This watch has been fully serviced to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It comes fitted with a new 18mm black lizard (grain) calf leather strap so you’re all set. All in all a handsome, Streamline Art Deco “Clubman 902” in immaculate condition – a pleasure to wear and a collectible investment as well.

Founded by Swiss immigrant Albert Wittnauer in New York City, the Wittnauer Watch Co. became a true watch company in 1880, when the brand was "officially" introduced. Albert, along with his brother Louis (and later Emile) imported complete watches or just mechanisms from its Geneva, Switzerland factory.

In 1889 the company ran its very first advertisement. Appearing in the 20th anniversary issue of the Jewelers' Weekly, the ad notes that the company sold both "plain and complicated" watches, suggesting that it was a source for chronographs and repeating watches. By the 20th century they were firmly established as providing watches, chronometers and military timing devices to the military, famed early explorers and the general public, and are on record for producing the first waterproof watch called the "All Proof" in 1918. Long associated with the Longines Watch Co. via a U.S. partnership the firm is now owned by Bulova, once a great competitor.

I am happy to offer for sale the following men's vintage Wittnauer watch, a stainless steel and 14k rose gold "Revue" model that is in excellent condition inside and out. Unlike its Longines brothers and sisters (that were typically cased and timed in the USA) this circa 1950 watch was made entirely in Switzerland and boy is it a looker – love the late Art Deco look.

Fully-signed, it measures 40mm lug tip to lug tip and 33mm in width (35.5mm with original rose gold crown). This works out to be just under 1-5/8 inches in total length by just over 1-1/4 inches in width, not counting the winding crown. It is powered by its original and higher-grade 17 jewel, "Revue" series manual wind mechanism that has been fully serviced by my watchmaker David to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The ivory color, enamel finished dial is in flawless condition – faithfully restored to its correct original status and beautifully done. It features a 60 minute outer track border, black enamel Arabic numerals and gold ‘dot’ hour indicators, original rose gold Leaf-style hands and a separate seconds dial with engine-turned background and 'sweep original rose gold seconds hand. Signed WITTNAUER below the 12 and REVUE within the sub-seconds dial. It is further signed SWISS at the base of the dial.

The hardened acrylic crystal is in excellent condition with no flaws. The three-piece case is comprised of a 14kt Solid Rose Gold bezel and Stainless Steel body, lugs and back lid. It is pristine condition with swooping curled lugs - appearing like it did when it left the factory. The original rose gold winding crown nicely complements the rose gold bezel and is in excellent order as well, winding and setting smoothly.

Turning the watch over I note that the snap- down stainless steel back lid is free of any engravings and is in flawless shape, as are the fancy lugs. Inside I find a clean and higher end three finger bridge mechanism, as nice or nicer than a comparable Longines mechanism of the same era. It is signed Wittnauer Watch Co., Inc - Seventeen 17 Jewels - [Caliber] 11TN Revue, Swiss, AXA. The inside of the case lid is finely engine turned and stamped STAINLESS STEEL - WITTNAUER WATCH CO. INC. SWITZERLAND - STAINLESS STEEL, SWISS - 3664963.

This watch has been fully disassembled, cleaned, oiled and regulated prior to auction to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It is fitted on a new and high quality 18mm black deBeer Europa lizard grain calf leather strap with steel buckle. All in all a well-built, beautifully designed and amazingly well-preserved timepiece – I am quite partial to this one!

Founded by Aaron Dennison and E. Howard, the highly regarded Waltham Watch Company of Waltham, Mass. is one of the grandfathers of U.S. horology, in business from 1850 to 1959 making high quality pocket watches, clocks and wristwatches known the world over. The company adopted the American Waltham name in 1859, having already used such names as Warren, Tracy, Appleton and Boston.

I am pleased to offer the following vintage timepiece from the Waltham company, a men’s Wandering Seconds (direct read) model that dates to 1930. This is the first time I’ve had this model and it was very much “fashion forward” for the time, especially for Waltham who were known to be more conservative with its watch styles. Not many watch companies came out with a wandering seconds, digital read-out watch although I did sell an Illinois Guardsman recently that had a secometer dial like this but located at the more conventional 6 o’clock position.

Triple-signed for Waltham, this 14kt White Gold filled watch measures 39mm lug tip to lug tip and 20mm in width. In inches this works out to be just over 1-1/2” long by ¾ of an inch wide – a gent’s size that would also work nicely on a ladies wrist (by today’s standards). It also comes with what may be its original “Peerless Wearproof” ladder link bracelet (shown below), as it was on the watch when I purchased it and is of the same era. My skilled watchmaker David has fully serviced its original 15 jewel, manual wind mechanism to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The antique white, enamel finished dial is in excellent condition, professionally restored to its correct original status. It features a 60 minute checkered outer track border, black enamel stylized numerals, original blue steel Waltham hands and a cutaway window at the 9 position where the rotating 60 second disk is located – all numbering excellent. Signed WALTHAM below the 12. I want to emphasize that these are the original hands on the watch – Waltham paired up the skeleton hour hand with the solid hour hand on many of its models in the early 1930s and I also have a copy of an original photo of this watch showing these hands (and exact same dial numbering).

The solid glass crystal is in excellent, clear condition. The Waltham-signed, 14 Karat White Gold Filled case is in excellent condition (a touch of rub on one of the lugs only), complete with stepped sides. The matching winding crown is excellent as well, winding and setting smoothly.

Turning the watch over, I note that the back lid is also in excellent shape, no wear or engravings past or present. Peeking inside I find a clean Fifteen Jewel movement that is stamped Waltham, USA, 15 Jewels and carries the serial number #27,351,498, dating this watch to 1930 – 1931 as per company production records. The inside of the case lid is signed WALTHAM, WADSWORTH QUALITY, 14K GOLD FILLED with case number below.

This watch winds and sets smoothly while keeping good time. Comes fitted with a new 16mm matte black leather strap (unmarked but by Hadley Roma) with matching color buckle so its ready to be worn and enjoyed. Well it’s taken me over 20 years to offer this one for sale and maybe just as long before I find another as nice – if you think this unique Waltham might be happy on your wrist please don’t forget to place a bid!

When it comes to vintage watches I’ve always had a soft spot for wire lug models, watches that have solid bars that are part of the case as opposed to using spring bars to attach the band. The British market loved wire lug watches, so much so that decades after the U.S. had switched to lugs with holes for spring bars the UK happily went about its business the old fashion way. This explains why some people will see a watch like this and assume it was made in 1920 and not 1944, the actual year it was fabricated.

This is an excellent, original example of such a watch, a 9kt Solid Rose Gold model produced in Switzerland at the end of WWII for the long established Bravingtons – London, a family business that was established in the 1880s. Bravingtons had its main store at King Cross and three others strategically located about London. While goldsmiths and jewelers, they also promoted and sold their own brands of Swiss- supplied watches under the “Bravingtons” name.

This triple-signed, Cushion form timepiece measures 33mm end to end and 28.5mm in width (30.5mm with rose gold crown). In inches this works out to be 1-1/4” long by 1-1/8” wide (without the crown), a mid size gents watch when first sold best described as a "3/4 size" men's timepiece by today’s standards, also suited to a woman who likes a larger size vintage watch. Powering this watch is a higher grade, 15 jewel Swiss made Bravingtons-signed mechanism fully serviced by my watchmaker David to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The handsome gold tone, enamel finished dial is untouched since it left the factory 66 years ago and is in great condition. You will that it has an even, warm patina with a few speckles but this is just lovely I think. It features a 60 minute outer track border, original radium finished Arabic numerals (darkened with age), original steel hands with fill and a separate, slightly recessed seconds dial with 60 second detailed outer chapter and ‘sweep’ seconds hand. Signed Bravingtons London below the 12 and Swiss Made at the base of the dial.

The new old stock solid glass crystal is in mint condition – as old or older than the watch itself. The case is a classic Cushion-form example with solid wire lugs, crafted of 9 Karat Solid Rose Gold and in excellent shape, absolutely NO dings or scratches. The winding crown is a matching rose gold and in excellent condition, operating smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is also 9ct Solid Gold and in excellent order, absolutely no dings or wear. This was a presentation piece and it is signed “Imperial Chemical Industries Limited – Presented to W.H. Bramwell for 30 Years Service 1945.” This company was established in 1926 and had its head office at Millbank, London. Peeking inside at the movement I find a higher-grade Fifteen Jewel example stamped 1045 - 15 JEWELS, SWISS MADE – BRAVINGTONS – B232302. The inside of the outer case lid is signed 9 - .375 – I with the lion face hallmark for London. This tells me the case and watch were imported into the UK in 1944 as “I” is the date code for that year. Below you will see that it is stamped “B’s” for Bravingtons.

This watch has been fully disassembled, cleaned, oiled and regulated to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. Comes fitted with a new & high quality 17mm Havana (dark) brown alligator grain calf leather strap with fold over ends especially designed for solid, wire lug watches such as this. This band also has a rose gold finished buckle on it – a nice detail. All in all a very original, beautifully preserved solid gold Swiss watch that is one of my favorites this week – lots of vintage character and charm.

My favorite U.S. watch firm is the Elgin National Watch Company, a prolific American enterprise established in 1864 on 35 acres of land donated by the City of Chicago in Elgin, Illinois. It was a strategic location, right next to the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, one of the busiest railways into Chicago. By 1867 the first watch was marketed for sale, retailing for $115 (think of that in today’s prices!) and Elgin was soon competing head-on with its chief competitor, Waltham, which (ironically) was instrumental in forming Elgin, as two of the original organizers were P.S. Bartlett and D.G. Currier of Waltham fame.

Here is a truly nice example of a larger size ladies Elgin wristwatch – if the fancy elliptical sided case doesn’t grab you then the fancy number dial should! This 14kt Solid White Gold timepiece dates to 1925 and features a double-hinged, finely engraved case.

Its wire lug case measures 30mm end to end and 26.5mm in width (29mm with original crown). This is 1-3/16 inches long by just over 1-1/8 inches wide, including the crown. Its original 6/0 size mechanism (the same size used in many men’s watches in the 1920s) has been fully serviced by my watchmaker David and it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The silver matte enamel finished dial is excellent condition, professionally restored to its original status and done spot-on. Features include a 60 minute checkered outer track border, angled black enamel Russian style numerals (just as it had originally) and original blue steel Elgin Fuseaux style hands. Signed ELGIN below the 12.

The solid glass crystal is in mint condition, a new old stock example. The case is a nice double-hinged, wire lug example in 14 Karat Solid White Gold. It is in excellent condition and features elaborate engraving on the elliptical bezel and sides, really crisp and sharp (i.e., not worn or over polished). The original white gold finished winding crown is in excellent shape as well, operating smoothly.

Turning the watch over I note that the back lid is very clean and shiny, in excellent condition with a tasteful engraving as shown. Peeking inside I find a Seven 7 jewel, lever escapement movement (6/0 size) signed ELGIN, USA. As I said earlier, this is a larger movement, also used in men's models during this period. The serial number of # 28,693,559 dates this watch to 1925. The inside of the case back is stamped 6/0- P.W.C. CO. – 14K and this tells us the mechanism size, that it is 14k solid gold and that the case was made for Elgin by the Providence Watch Case Company.

This beautiful Art Deco timepiece has been cleaned, oiled & regulated just last week to ensure that it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. Comes fitted with a new 12mm matte black calf leather strap with matching color buckle, especially designed for solid wire lug watches such as this. All in all a “knockout” example of an American made Art Deco timepiece. Strap this watch on and you’ll be friendlier, funnier and even better looking (as if that's even possible!)

There are nice lady’s Art Deco watches and then there are rare and superb Art Deco watches. This ca 1927 timepiece falls into the latter category and it’s easy to explain why. It is a 14 Karat Rolled Gold plate beauty with an seldom seen Cloisonné Flower Dial. When was the last time you saw a dial like this? It is also untouched and original – right down to the picture of the original owner’s “sweetie” placed inside the hinged case (photo below).

This wire lug watch was produced by the well- respected Benrus Watch Company, a family firm founded by Benjamin Lazrus in 1923 with headquarters in New York City and a watch factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

Its hinged case measures 30mm lug tip to lug tip and 17mm in width (20mm with original cabochon crown). In inches this works out to be 1-3/16” long by 5/8” wide, not including the sapphire crown. Attached to the watch is, I believe, its original mesh and filigree engraved bracelet, complete with finely decorated (engraved) unfolding deployment clasp. It is of a good length – fitting a wrist up to 7-5/8 inches in size (also adjustable smaller). My watchmaker David has fully serviced its 15 jewel, 4 adjustment “Shockproof” movement, ensuring it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The Cloisonné and enameled (over sterling silver) dial is 100% original and untouched – in great condition with a touch of patina as you can see and just a tiny dark spot near the 6. I would not touch a thing as it is truly excellent original shape. It features three different colors of cloisonné, including black, French blue and silver…all excellent and intact. In the center is a square sterling silver dial, complete with 60 minute inner track border, black enamel- painted numbers, original blue steel hands and a finely engraved center. It is signed BENRUS below the 12 and further stamped Swiss at the base, hidden by the bezel.

The solid glass crystal is original and in excellent, clear condition with no flaws. The three-piece case is hinged at the rear (with a removable bezel) and is a Benrus “Triple-Plate” example. This translates as 14kt white rolled gold plated. Note the finely engraved bezel and sides – matched by engraved end pieces on the original band. The original winding crown is a cabochon sapphire example in excellent shape, winding and setting smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is in excellent condition – one tiny spot of brassing at one corner but no other wear or engravings, very clean. Peeking inside via the hinged back lid I find a higher-grade 15 jewel mechanism that is signed Benrus Watch Co., Fifteen 15 Jewels, Four Adj’s – Shock Proof Pat’d, Swiss. This is an early example of shock resistant mechanism (with protected balance jewel and staff) and a competitive “leg up” on Benrus’ chief competitor Bulova. The inside of the case lid shows a small little photo (original) of a natty young gentleman of the late 1920s with sharp double breasted suit, no doubt the original owner’s sweetie. Removing this picture (carefully) I see that it is signed MADE IN USA - BENRUS – TRIPLE PLATE .

Cleaned, oiled and regulated prior to auction, this watch winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It is fitted on what I believe to be its original mesh bracelet – marked “Handifold – Patented, 12K Gold Filled.” This band is in excellent PLUS shape with engraved end pieces and engraved deployment clasp, fitting a wrist up to 7-5/8 inches but can be made smaller. All in all a timepiece that is a true time capsule and simply beautiful on the wrist…who is going to be the new owner?

In its glory years from the 1920s through the 1940s, the Gruen Watch Company of USA & Switzerland was one of the leaders in wristwatch design and quality, even collaborating with Rolex (i.e., the Aegler movement duo-dial doctor’s watch) from its factories in Switzerland. Prior to WWII, Gruen was better known in the USA than Rolex, which at that time was concentrating on the British and Commonwealth countries (hence lots of early Rolexes coming out of Australia and the UK). Hans Wilsdorf and Gruen were friends and neighbors in Switzerland (their factories were just yards away), and even agreed to market their watches as Rolex Gruen in Europe, but the Great Depression (and more urgent matters) prevented this.

I am pleased to offer for sale the following Gruen timepiece, an original Guildite Stainless Steel “Pan American” model in excellent condition. This is a lesser seen model and I have conferred with my friend (and Gruen historian) Cary Hurt to get more details. He too has this model in original, un-restored shape with the same dial and same Gruen Guildite stainless case. We both agree that it dates to ca 1946, just after the Second World War.

Now about the Pan American model line. There was a glamorous mystique to aviation and airplane travel in the 1940s, and Gruen ran several ads showing pictures of their Pan Am pilot's watch with the famous Pan American Clipper flying boat. Originally, these watches were supplied only to the airline and were not actually available for civilian use—the ads were run to create customer awareness of these watches, which Gruen had big plans for once WWII ended.

In October 1945 an advertisement stated that the Pan American line would go on sale to the public. The company believed that postwar consumers would make increasing use of 24-hour time, especially for airline travel. They also reasoned that, having just come through a major war, many people would have become accustomed to military time and could easily make the transition. Gruen published several articles in their dealer newsletters praising the advantages of dials indicating "the 24 hours of the air-world day," and advising retailers to stock up on Pan Americans to meet the anticipated demand.

The company offered the Pan American in a number of models and variations, in Guildite (steel), gold filled and solid gold cases, for both men and women, and with a variety of lug and case shapes. There were also two-tone versions and versions with square cases and dials. There were a variety of dials as well, but just like the original pilot's watches, they all share common features: a 24-hour dial with an inner 13-24 chapter ring and a red sweep seconds hand.

This triple-signed model is all Swiss Made (vs. being cased in the USA) and features a solid stainless steel case, my personal favorite. It measures 39mm end to end and 32mm in width (33.2mm with partially recessed, unmarked crown) or just over 1-1/2 inches long by 1-1/4 inches wide, not counting the winding crown. It is powered by its original 420SS caliber, 17 jewel manual wind Gruen mechanism that has been fully serviced by my watchmaker David to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.

The 100% original two tone ivory and silver color dial is in excellent condition and has not been touched since it left the factory 65 years ago. It features a silver & black 60 second outer chapter that’s calibrated to 1/5 of a second for precision, black enameled numerals and silver finished, diamond- shaped hour indicators, a “Bulls Eye” 24 Hour silver inner track with black enameled numerals, original blue steel Gruen Pan Am hands and a dark RED original ‘sweep’ center seconds hand. Signed GRUEN VERI-THIN below the 12 and “PRECISION” above the number 18. It is further signed SWITZERLAND at the base of the dial.

The new old stock domed acrylic crystal is excellent, clear condition. The case is Solid Stainless Steel and in excellent PLUS shape, complete with ridged bezel and curving lugs…very nice and without any flaws. The winding crown is unmarked (may or may not be original) and in excellent shape, winding and setting smoothly.

Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is also in excellent PLUS condition and free of any wear or engravings. It is stamped GRUEN 105,264 . Peeking inside I find a clean Seventeen Jewel 420SS Caliber movement that is signed Gruen Watch Co., Seventeen 17 Jewels – Precision – Veri Thin – Patented – Switzerland, GXC – 420SS. The inside case lid is signed SWITZERLAND – GRUEN WATCH CO., GUILDITE. “Guildite” was Gruen’s name for stainless steel.

This watch has been disassembled, cleaned, oiled and regulated to ensure it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It comes fitted on a new18mm black deBeer hand crafted lizard grain calf leather strap with matching chrome steel buckle. All in all beautifully preserved, high collectible Pan Am for that collector who is just itching to add this rare and original model to his or her collection.