4.1 Knitted Structure & Analysis

4.1 KNITTED STRUCTURE & ANALYSIS L T P 2 - - RATIONALE

A diploma holder should have competency of analyzing knitted fabric because he has to work in knitting industry where he has to develop different knits on machines. In order to perform these job responsibilities, knowledge, skills in knitting technology area are essential. Hence the subject. DETAILED CONTENTS

1. Need of analysis of knitted fabric, and tools needed for analysis. (2hrs) 2. Method of doing analysis of knitted fabric. (Representation through mesh structure, representation through technical notation.) (3hrs)

3. Classification of different types of weft knitted structures. (2hrs) 4. Classification of different types of warp knitted structures. (2hrs) 5. Application of draft on graph paper for drafting and graphing of knitted structures. (3hrs) 6. Important knitted structures and their technical notations with Symbolic representation:- Plain, Rib, Eight Lock, Milano Rib, Purl, Tuck, Float, Stripes, Lecoste Knit, Accordian stitch, Half Cardigan, Full Cardigan, Single Pique, Roma Knit, Lace, Cable, Waffle, Swiss Double Pique . (5hrs)

7. Yarn Parameters and properties. (3hrs) 8. Fabric Parameters and Properties. (2hrs) 9. Defects in Fabrics. Defects related to yarn and related to knitting. (2hrs) In addition, the following aspects need to be practiced:-

1. Practice of analysis of given knitted structures. (1hrs) 2. Analysis of knitted structures and drafting on graph paper. (1hrs) 3. Preparation of new pattern for applications on weft and warp knitting machines (1hrs) 4. Identification of given knitted samples, analyzing it and recommendation of machines on which it can be produced. (1hrs)

5. Fabric analysis for determination of GSM, CPI, WPI, SL, CL. (1hrs) 6. Identify and analyze the given sample of fabric for the following particulars:- (3hrs) a) Course and wales per cm. b) Loop length c) Technical graph d) Cam order e) Needle order

NOTE:- There will be no practical Examination 77 The questions from practice syllabus will be asked in theory paper.

INSTRUCTIONAL STRATEGY

The teacher is expected to tell the students the applications of this subject area in various fields. Emphasis should be laid on practical examples.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Circular Knitting by Chandrasekara Iyer; Mahajan Publishers, Ahmedabad

SUGGESTED DISTRIBUTION OF MARKS

Topic Time Allotted Marks Allotted No. (Hrs) (%) 1 02 08 2 03 12 3 02 08 4 02 08 5 03 12 6 05 24 7 03 12 8 02 08 9 02 08 Total 48 100

78 4.2 TEXTILE TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL-I L T P 3 - 4 RATIONALE

A diploma holder in Textile Processing/ Textile Technology (Knitting) is responsible for controlling the quality of the knitted product. He is also required to supervise physical and chemical testing of textiles. For this purpose, knowledge and skills about testing and quality control needs to be imparted to him. Hence this subject.

DETAILED CONTENTS

PHYSICAL TESTING

1 Objectives and importance of Textile Testing. (1 hr) .

2 Different types of sampling techniques of fibre, yarn and fabrics. (brief (2 hrs) . idea)

3 Relative humidity & method of its determination. (2 hrs) .

4 Identification of textile fibres by physical testing: - (5 hrs) . a) Burning test b) Microscope Longitudinal and cross-sectional view of the following textile fibres by microscope: - Cotton, wool, mohair, silk, viscose -Rayon, Acetate- Rayon, Nylon, Terylene, Acrylic, Polyproplene 5 Importance of moisture in textile materials and its determination. (4 hrs) . Definition of moisture content and moisture regain. Standard moisture regains of different textile materials, correct invoice weight.

6 Different system of yarn count, conversion of yarn count from one (5 hrs) . system to another, count calculations. Determination of yarn count and fabric count using different Instruments using Wrap Reel, Beesley’s Balance, Quadrant Balance, Knowles Balance.

7 Definition of fibre fineness. Importance of fibre fineness of wool and (4 hrs) . cotton.

8 Determination of fibre fineness of Wool fibres with Projection Microscope (1 hr) .

9 Length determination of Wool fibre. (3 hrs) .

1 Crimp:- Importance of Crimp in yarn. Methods of determination of (6 hrs) 0 Crimps in yarn. .

1 Tensile Properties of yarn. Method of determination of breaking strength (6 hrs) 1 (RKN) and elongation of single yarn by single yarn strength . tester. Determination of Lea strength and count strength product (C.S.P) of yarn

79 1 Importance of yarn evenness. Principle of unevenness measurement of (3 hrs) 2 yarn. Unevenness determination of yarn by Uster unevenness Tester. .

1 Definition of twist, importance of twist in the yarn, count & twist (6 hrs) 3 relationship, twist and strength relation, Direction of twist, Method . of determination of twist of single & ply yarn with hand/power driven twist testing machine.

LIST OF PRACTICALS

1. Determination of relative humidity by Dry and Wet bulb thermometer and whirling hygrometer.

2. To identify textile fibre by burning test and by microscope and draw longitudinal and cross sectional views of the following fibres: cotton, wool, mohair, silk, viscose, rayon, acetate rayon, nylon, terylene, acrylic and polyproplon.

3. Determination of moisture contents of textile materials by conditioning oven and calculation of moisture regain, correct conditioned weight.

4. Determination of count and denier of yarn in different systems with the help of Wrap Reel, Beesley’s Balance, Quadrant Balance, Knowles yarn balance, yarn and cloth Quadrant. Calculation and conversion of count in different systems.

5. Determination of the crimp of yarn by the crimp-testing machine. Demonstration will be given in a knitting unit /testing organization.

6. Determination of the evenness of yarn by Uster evenness tester. Demonstration will be given in a textile unit / testing organization.

7. Determination of the breaking strength and elongation of single yarn by power driven single yarn strength testing machine. Determination of the breaking strength and elongation and lea strength of cotton yarn, woolen yarn and worsted yarn and calculation of count yarn strength product (C.S.P)

8. Threads per inch determinations (Ends/Picks, course & Wales).

9. Determination of the twist /inch of single and ply yarn by twist tester.

10. Technique of sample preparation of fibre, yarn and fabrics.

The teacher should lay emphasis on understanding of basic concepts and various terms used in the subject. Practical exercises will reinforce various concepts. Industrial exposure must be given by organizing visits.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Textile Testing by J.E Booth, CBS Publication, New Delhi.

80 2. Textile Testing by Angappan, Jayaparkashan Publication 3. Textile Fibre by HVS Murthy, Mahajan Publication, Ahmedabad. 4. Hand book of Textile Testing by B.P. Saville, Textile Institute Publication.

Topic Time Allotted Marks Allotted No. (Hrs) (%) 1 01 02 2 02 04 3 02 04 4 05 12 5 04 08 6 05 12 7 04 08 8 01 02 9 03 06 10 06 12 11 06 12 12 03 06 13 06 12 Total 48 100

81 4.3 CIRCULAR JACQUARD MACHINE- I L T P 3 - 5 RATIONALE

A diploma holder in Textile Technology ( Knitting) must be aware of the principles and working of power socks machine. In addition he should have a thorough knowledge of the function of different mechanisms of power operated automatic machines. Hence this subject. DETAILED CONTENTS

1. Definition of Jacquard. 2. Introduction to different types of Jacquard made on Double Jersey & Single Jersey Circular Knitting machines.

3. Needle Selection through cam plates. 4. Different butt position with different set-outs and cam arrangements. 5. Introduction of automatic socks knitting machine and its working. 6. Cam Set of automatic socks knitting machine 6.1 With revolving cylinder 6.2 With stationary cylinder 7. Controlling Chain & Drum 8. Quadrant Gear 9. Picker Mechanism 10. Speed Gear 11. Ratchet Wheel and Pawls 12. Yarn delivery devices 12.1 Storage devices 12.2 Tape delivery equipment 12.3 Positive feed device 12.4 Storage yarn feeder with rotating coiler 12.5 Storage yarn feeder with stationary coiler 12.6 Yarn furnishing wheel 12.7 Taper feeding wheel 13. Fabric take down 13.1 Fabric spreader 13.2 Fabric tensioning device with mechanical drive 13.3 Electrical fabric tensioning & winding device from Mayer & Cie.

82 LIST OF PRACTICALS ( to be performed in Circular Jacquard Machine Section)

1. Demonstration and setting of chief sections of different machines such as:- feeders, tension devices, yarn delivery devices, cam sets, drawing off mechanism, driving mechanism, stop motions and setting of stitch quality.

2. Function of chain in power socks machine. 3. Preparation and setting of chain according to length of socks on power socks machine. 4. Demonstration of power socks machine. 5. Demonstration of speed gear, quadrant gear, star wheel, ratchet wheel pawls. 6. Production of heels and toes. 7. Production of nylon socks. 8. Production of terry socks. 9. Maintenance of above machines. Note:- Sample book is to be prepared in which diagrams, short explanation of experiments and small samples are to be fixed along with their explanation.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Knitting Technology by D.J. Spencer; Mahajan Publishers, Ahmedabad. 2. Circular Knitting by Chandrasekhar Iyer; Mahajan Publishers, Ahmedabad. 3. Knitting Technology by Ajgaonkar; Sewak Publication, Mumbai SUGGESTED DISTRIBUTION OF MARKS

Topic Time Allotted Marks Allotted No. (Hrs) (%) 1 02 04 2 04 08 3 02 04 4 03 06 5 04 08 6 05 12 7 03 06 8 03 06 9 03 06 10 03 06 11 03 06 12 08 16 13 05 12 Total 48 100 83 4.4 WARP KNITTING TECHNOLOGY-I L T P 3 - 5 RATIONALE A diploma holder in Textile Technology (Knitting) is responsible for controlling the production of the knitted products. For this purpose, knowledge and skills about warp knitting machines. Their mechanism and working need to be imparted to him. Hence this subject.

DETAILED CONTENTS 1. Preparatory Processes

1.1 Warping & beaming of yarn. 1.2 Detailed description of warping system. 1.3 Advantages & disadvantages of warping processes. 1.4 Types of creels.

2. Basics of warp knitting, glossary used in warp knitting, usage and application of warp knitting goods. Properties of warp knitted fabrics

3. Elements of warp knitting machine - Needle, Guide, Sinker and Trick plate. 4. Comparison of Warp and Weft Knitting. 5. Different mechanism in warp knitting technology 5.1 Needle bar motion. 5.2 Guide bar swinging motion. 5.3 Guide bar shoging motion. 5.4 Presser bar motion. 5.5 Sinker bar motion. 5.6 Warp let off motion. 5.7 Role of Cam and Eccentrics in warp knitting machine

6. Loop formation Sequence ( Knitting Cycle) using Latch Needle, Compound Needle and Bearded Needle.

7. Classification of Warp Knitting Machines and their description.

7.1 Tricot Machine 7.2 Raschel Machine ( Single Needle Bar) 7.3 Raschel Machine ( Double Needle Bar)

8. Patterning mechanisms for warp knit designs (Pattern wheels, Pattern Chain Links) 9. Comparative Study in Pattern Wheel & Pattern Chain 10. Basic Knit in warp knitting - basic knit structure in warp knitting and its drafting on point paper.

84 LIST OF PRACTICALS ( to be performed in Warp Knitting Machine Section)

1. Working on indirect & direct warping machines, maintenance & operation of machine. 2. Defects in warping & beaming, their causes & remedies 3. Method of setting & leveling the machines. 4. Threading of warp ends and knitting on Raschel warp knitting machines. 5. Operation & maintenance of general Raschel & Warp knitting machines with one, two, three and four guide bars.

6. Application of draft paper for drafting of designs on warp knitting machines. 7. Casting of Needle led and Guide led. 8. Preparation of designs of basic structures and drafting process. 9. Development of laps for warp knitting designs. (Tricot laps, Atlas laps, Cord laps)

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Warp Knitting Technology by Prof. D.B. Ajgaonkar; Sewak Publication, Mumbai 2. Knitting Technology by D.J. Spencer; Mahajan Publishers Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad 3. Warp Knitting Production by Dr. S.Raz; Melliand Textilberichte GmbH, Germany

Topic Time Allotted Marks Allotted No. (Hrs) (%) 1 05 12 2 04 08 3 04 08 4 03 06 5 10 22 6 04 08 7 06 12 8 04 08 9 04 08 10 04 08 Total 48 100

85 4.5 ESTIMATING & COSTING L T P 3 - - RATIONALE

Diploma holders in textile technology (knitting) are required to do calculations related to machine gauge, production ( theoretical & actual), fabric qualities (i.e. G.S.M, wales per inch, course per inch). In order to perform these job responsibilities, relevant knowledge, skill and abilities are required. Hence this subject.

DETAILED CONTENTS

1. Cost calculation of raw material after removal of impurities, effective cost of blends. 2. Effective cost involved in production of knitted fabric. Such as purchase of material, cost of direct labour & machine, establishing charges, discounts and profit. 3. Introduction and importance of establishment charges:- rent, rates, taxes, insurance, power light fuel, ventilation, depreciation of machinery plant, building etc. Staff and management, advertising, patent, and registration interest on lone, debenture, commission allowances, for bad debits and writing down of stocks. Departmental charges, administrative charges, % of cost of turn over. 4. Calculation of production in number, length, and weight. 5. Calculation of total cost of production after discount.

6. Testing and quality control calculations.

7. Calculation of knitting machine gauge machine diameter, width of bed, no. of needles in the machine.(yarn count according to gauge in flat knitting)

8. Calculation of related dimensions fabric cover tightness and fabric weight.

9. Sewing and seaming calculation.

10. Derivation and use of formulae for calculating fabrics weight.

11. Calculation on theoretical production.

12. Output and production calculations.

13. Weight of fabric per square unit calculation.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Weaving Calculation by Sen & Gupta 2. Knitting Mathematics & Mechanism 3. Textile Mathematics by J. E. Booth

86 SUGGESTED DISTRIBUTION OF MARKS

87 4.6 DYEING & FINISHING - I L T P 3 - 5 RATIONALE

A diploma holder is required to have knowledge and skills related to processing of yarn and knitted fabric. He must be well acquainted with the processes of dyeing and finishing. Hence this subject.

DETAILED CONTENTS

1. Scouring and Bleaching of cotton. 2. Mercerisation of cotton, its importance and application. 3. Scouring and bleaching of wool with Sodium hydrosulphite & Hydrogen peroxide. 4. Chlorination of wool. 5. Carbonization of wool. 6. Degumming and bleaching of Silk with Hydrogen peroxide. 7. Scouring & bleaching of Polyamides, Polyester and Acrylics. 8. Spot Removing. 9. Dry cleaning of woolen garments. 10. Drying of tubular Knitted Fabrics. 11. Finishing- objectives and classifications. 12. Finishing of woolen garments i.e. Damping, Steam Pressing, Folding and Packaging. 13. Finishing of Pile Fabrics.

LIST OF PRACTICALS

1. Scouring and Bleaching of cotton with bleaching powder and Hydrogen Peroxide. 2. Mercerisation of cotton fabrics. 3. Scouring and bleaching of wool with Sodium hydrosulphite & Hydrogen peroxide. 4. Chlorination of Wool 5. Degumming and Bleaching of Silk with Hydrogen peroxide. 6. Scouring and bleaching of art silk. (viscose) 7. Scouring & bleaching of Polyamides, Polyester and Acrylics. 8. Spot Removing. 9. Dry cleaning of woolen garments. 10. Drying of Tubular Knitted Fabrics. 11. Finishing of woolen garments i.e. Damping, Steam Pressing, Folding and Packaging.

88 INSTRUCTIONAL STRATEGY

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

1. Textile finishing by JT Marsh, B.I. Publications, New Delhi 2. Technology of Finishing by V.A. Shehnai, Sewak Publications, Mumbai 3. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, By E.R. Trotman, Charles Greffing & Co. Ltd. London. 4. Technology of Dyeing by Dr. V.A.Shehnai, Sewak Publications, Mumbai 5. Dyeing of Wool, Silk and manmade fibers by R.S. Paryag. L.R Paryag Publishers

89 ENTREPRENEURIAL AWARENESS CAMP

This is to be organized at a stretch for two to three days during second year. Lectures will be delivered on the following broad topics. There will be no examination for this subject

1. Who is an entrepreneur?

2. Need for entrepreneurship, entrepreneurial career and wage employment

3. Scenario of development of small scale industries in India

4. Entrepreneurial history in India, Indian values and entrepreneurship

5. Assistance from District Industries Centres, Commercial Banks. State Financial Corporations, Small industries Service Institutes, Research and Development Laboratories and other financial and development corporations

6. Considerations for product selection

7. Opportunities for business, service and industrial ventures

8. Learning from Indian experiences in entrepreneurship (Interaction with successful entrepreneurs)

9. Legal aspects of small business

10. Managerial aspects of small business

90 INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Industrial training is necessary for students of textile technology (knitting). By visiting industry, students will become familiar with the scale of operation and work culture in knitting industry. The students will be able to apply knowledge and skills gained through various curriculum areas and will be able to see latest machines and production procedures in Industry. It is expected the students will be sent to concerned industry for industrial training for two weeks during vacations at the end of IVth semester and evaluation of industrial training diary prepared by the students during training will be done in Vth semester.