ETL Installation Notes

ETL Installation notes:

Orfeo Colebatch 12 July 2016

Below is a running list on what needs to be done in July-August pre-installation.

Pedestal

1. Install i-beams across deck joists, need:

a. joist brackets

b. Drill

c. Bolts, nuts

d. Measuring tape

e. Large drill bit (1/2” at least) to create space for joist bracket through deck joist.

2. Install pedestal base on joists, need:

a. Level DONE

a.i. Precision level?????

b. Shims DONE

c. Plum bob to center on tube (have string but no bob – also need center point tripod to hold bob above tracker

d. Cap and o-rings to seal top of pedestal DONE

e. Bolt hardware to secure pedestal base to i-beams and assemble pedesdal. DONE

3. Install weather station

a. Post

b. Bolts 4. Install CaF2 plate

a. CaF2 plate,

b. CaF2 holder and o-rings

c. Bolts to secure plate to joists

d. Flange to seal plate to tube

e. Silicon to seal cable hole

f. Plumbing fitting to seal cable hole

5. Install Cryomech LN2 system

a. 4 people to lift air compressor into room

b. Dolly to move easily

c. Vibration pads

d. Extra bolts for vibration pads

e. 3/8 copper tubing

f. Tube bender

g. Hack saw

h. Burr removal tool

i. Shelf supports to hang copper tube (x 4) and potentially rest drier on.

j. Extension tube for drier to feed into drain bucket.

k. Drain pan for air compressor

l. Ball valve for air compressor drain valve

m. He refill regulator and tubing.

n. 2x4” wood for filter bank securing to wall

o. Screws/bolts for filter bank securing

p. 3/8 compression nuts for venting O2 to port.

q. O2 sensor. r. Zip ties or hose clamps to secure He hoses to ceiling/wall.

s. Rubber to pad between zip tie/hose clamp and He Hose

t. Air compressor line to blow/clean components – T 3/8 T junction and hose.

6. Measurement computing hardware

a. Rails to hold modules, DIN rails 33 mm or 1.5”

b. Wire clips to secure cable.

c. Mount to wall?

d. 24 VDC power supply

Purchase list for ETL:

1. 4" x 4" Galvanized Elevated Post Base SIMPSON STRONG-TIE Item #2649- 745 Model #EPB44PHDG DONE 2. 10 x ¾”x 4” bolts - to go through Post Base WRONG SIZE . ½” bolts are DONE 3. 20 x ¾” nuts and washers – WRONG SIZE BUT ½” bolts are DONE 4. 40 x 16d common nails or #10 x 1-1/2 in. Strong-Drive SD screws – DONE 5. Burr removal tool – DONE 6. Marking pencil 7. Air compressor hose & gun for maintenance. – alternate can – DONE 8. Flux pen, soldering kit 9. Silicon DONE 10. Drill bits – USE Imperial set? a. Need 5/8” for ½” bolts through deck joist for post bracket DONE b. Need ¾”- 7/8” for post bracket to pedestal baseplate. DONE 11. Tweezers 12. Stainless bolts for securing top SIL base plate to ring DONE 13. Larger zip tie holder for cover cables DONE (hose clamp I think this is referring to) 14. Power supply for measurement computer 15. Better terminal block for Measurement computing wires? CRIMP terminals bought 16. Cold temp AC cable for heat pads in suntracker 17. Top plate for crate DONE 18. M3 x 6mm bolts for SIL cover brushes http://www.mcmaster.com/#94500a221/=13c89iy DONE 19. Angle grinder or saw for cutting 10” pvc pipe DONE

Prince Albert Purchase List: 1. 2x8 Joists 2. Shelves 3. Screws (hex head screws for post bracket) 4. Plugs 5. Level? Don’t think so.

Hardware packing list for August Shipment:

1. Metric bolts for pedestal DONE 2. Silicon and gun DONE 3. Check o-rings for cap – are they wrapped with cap? YES DONE 4. Cut metal shims DONE 5. Long level DONE 6. Roxtec M63/4 gland x 2, DONE 7. Tarp DONE 8. Bruker 125HR floor plan paper + telescope drawing DONE 9. Metal shears for shim cutting DONE 10. Wood chisel for deck adjustment DONE 11. Snoop (leak checking) 12. CaF2 plate DONE 13. Hammer DONE 14. JAP SAW BLADE? 15. Plumb bob DONE 16. Lab books (both) 17. Umbrella DONE 18. Wrenches (SAE + Metric -> TAO) ? or rely on socket set… Step by Step instructions for Pedestal installation:

1. Lay I-Beams across deck joists, equidistantly spaced (12”) around the 10” PVC tube. a. The two I-Beams should be separated by 24” at their outer edges b. The joists which they cross at this separation should have some joists double thickness to allow for the 4x4” post brackets to attach to them. c. See Building2 top view.pdf for detail 2. Mark both edges of the I-beam on the deck joists. The center ¾” bolt of the 4x4” post bracket will need to go through the I-Beam at alternating sides of the I-beam (see Building2 top view.pdf) a. The ¾” bolt should go through the I-beam 0.875” in from the I-Beam edges. 3. Place the post brackets on the joists at the indicated placement in Building2 top view.pdf 4. Place the I-beam on top of (or beside) the bracket post and make sure everything fits. 5. Mark the position of the post bracket ¾” post onto the I-beams. 6. Remove the i-beam and measure the distance between the centers of the ¾” post bracket post. Measure parallel to the i-beam 7. Check that this distance matches the distance you marked on the I-beam in Mark the position of the post bracket ¾” post onto the I-beams.. 8. Drill the ¾” hole (or 7/8”) in the I-beam, remember these holes will be on alternating sides of the I-beam center support and not at every joist spacing (4 in total). 9. Place the I-beams back on the joists between the marks made in Mark both edges of the I-beam on the deck joists. The center ¾” bolt of the 4x4” post bracket will need to go through the I- Beam at alternating sides of the I-beam (see Building2 top view.pdf). 10. Mark out the position of the holes you just drilled onto the joists. Draw a line through these holes parallel to the joist. 11. Place the 4x4” post bracket on the joist at the marked position, with the ¾” post running through the center of the line you drew in Mark out the position of the holes you just drilled onto the joists. Draw a line through these holes parallel to the joist.. 12. Place the I-beams on the post brackets 13. If everything fits well you can mark the position of the ½” bolt holes to attach the 4x4” post brackets to the joists. 14. Drill the ½” holes (5/8” will allow more error). Be sure to keep the drill level and straight. 15. Attach the 4x4” post bracket and make sure the I-beams still fit on top of the ¾” post. 16. If they do the nail in the 16d nails to the 4x4” post brackets. 17. Attach the deck planks over the top of the exposed joists and 4x4’post brackets. a. You will need to drill some 3/4-7/8” holes to allow the 4x4” post bracket to pass through the deck planks. 18. Place the I-beams back on the 4x4” post brackets and bolt them down. When the installation is finished you’ll want to remove the nuts and apply some loktite to these bolts. 19. Place the pedestal base plate on top of the i-beam and check the level. If the level is far out then apply some shims to correct the level. 20. Once the plate is level use it to mark out the level to cut the 10” PVC tube at (I.e. mark un the underside of the plate onto the tube). 21. Double check your measurements 22. Once you’re happy use a jig saw or angle grinder to cut the tube. You may want to do a test cut higher up to make sure it cuts accurately. Hold the tube while you cut. a. You may like to check the height of the tube in the lab. Do you want to lower the tube? b. Tape a plastic bag to the bottom of the tube to catch all the dust 23. Place the pedestal base plate on the I-beams on top of the 10” PVC tube and check that it doesn’t foul on the tube and that the gap isn’t too big 24. Assemble pedestal base plate to light tube (o-rings aren’t totally necessary). 25. Place centering plate on light tube and secure with countersunk M8 bolts. 26. Thread plumb bob through center hole on centering plate and make sure plumb bob is in the center of the tube in the lab by moving the pedestal baseplate on top of the i-beams. 27. Once you’re happy with the center mark out the position of the baseplate on the I-beams 28. Then mark out the hole placement for the pedestal base plate. You will want 2 holes per I- Beam, separated onto alternate sides of the I-Beam central spire. 29. Once you’ve checked your measurements drill the ½” holes in the base plate. 30. Place the baseplate back on the I-beams on the marked position in Once you’re happy with the center mark out the position of the baseplate on the I-beams. You may like to center the plumb bob again to make sure you’re still centered. 31. Mark the position of the ½” holes made in the Pedestal base plate onto the I-Beams 32. Remove the pedestal base plate and drill 5/8” holes in the I-beams at the marked position in Mark the position of the ½” holes made in the Pedestal base plate onto the I-Beams. 33. Place the boot (DFE107(CR).PDF) on the 10” PVC tube so you can see how well it matches up to the baseplate a. We can either seal this onto our baseplate with Lepage Quad or just use the same sealant in between the tube and the baseplate If the gap is thin enough. b. For the time being just decide on which option is the best. We’ll leave the sealing as the last thing we’ll do. 34. Return the pedestal base plate to the i-beams and bolt it down with the ½” bolts, washers and nut. Once again in the final install you’ll apply some locktite but don’t do that yet. a. Perhaps don’t make the bolts too tight yet, they will probably scuff the anodizing. 35. Place the pedestal top plate on the light tube and secure tightly. 36. Assemble the SIL enclosure and Bruker A547N on the top of the pedestal as detailed in SIL Cover dissassembly for Bruker A547N installation.docx a. You will need to follow these instructions in reverse to “assemble” the tracker & cover.