Lisa Bonker, Phd, CCFT

DRIVING at a DISTANCE A: Handler needs to recognize where and when the dog must be given a JUNE 2016 cue. (Location and timing of cue) 80% of the time, I cue my dog the obstacle before a Lisa Bonker, PhD, CCFT change of direction needs to happen. A www.inthezoneagility.com change of direction can be a turn, come in, go out or even a go if needed. There are [email protected] times when I cue and want an instant m change of direction (Switch on the ground or some outs). PLEASE BRING LOTS OF GOOD B: Handler needs to understand what cue(s) should be given. (verbal, body, TREATS AND TOYS AND AN OPEN what motion). A cue consists of up to 3 MIND  different properties; verbal commands, body language and motion. Saying the There are different teams at right words, giving the right body language different levels attending the (shoulders, arm, feet, head, eyes) and seminar. Please be aware that we movement (acceleration/deceleration, stride length) all in a clear, crisp, will try to spend the same amount consistent, calm, confident way while of time with each team. That maintaining criteria, running with being said, I will work the skills I conviction and staying connected with believe each team needs the most. your dog---all work together to provide a So not everyone will be running proper cue. If you can cue properly, your the same sequences. For example, dog will be confident and go faster and u can have more distance !! Don’t worry if I will have a sequence setup and this seems like a foreign language  We some teams will be pushed for will talk about during the seminar ! bonus handling and others may be Lets talk about cues. It is a good idea to working a turn. It will all depend get a training notebook and write down on the levels and goals of each your cues. team. Also, if you are having start Body Language: What do you do with your body to tell your dog where to line issues, or sniffing issue, we go? I use my arm (hand) to draw the path I can work the ‘issue but please want my dog to go! I use my arm and hand realize that is part of your time to ‘point’ to where I want my dog to go. and you may get to run the Arm out-stay out! Arm in Come in! That is sequence once. my mantra  If my arm is out (on my side or in front of me) , my dogs know to keep ELEMENTS OF TRAINING DISTANCE moving on the path they are on. If I drop my arm (arm in) then I want my dog to There are many elements to training and move their path closer to mine. As soon handling distance. as my dog is on the closer path, I bring it CUES back up (forward, out) to direct my dog to The first step is to have a clear, consistent the next obstacle. The only time I drop my cueing system! The farther away from arm and pump is when my dog is on the your dog you are, the clearer you have to dogwalk, otherwise, my arm is always up be with your handling. So before you start directly my dog where to go. training for distance, you should think Pay attention to where you are about cues! Don’t worry we are going to go looking. I look where I want my dog to go over these in great detail at the seminar  —not at my dog! If I look where I want my moving forward. When I decelerate or dog to go, my body usually falls in line too ! shorten my stride a turn in coming up. With Of course you need to pay attention my motion, I will move towards my dog to your shoulders, hips, and feet also. You applying pressure when I want to push them want everything about you to be directing out. Conversely, when I want my dogs to your dog to go in the correct direction and come close to me, I decrease pressure and obstacle. drop my arm. Arm out –go out (or stay out) – Use your body to draw the path you Arm in COME IN !! How many times have want your dog to run on. My arm is drawing you seen (or done yourself..we all do it) the path and my head/eyes are looking at someone running up to a line (chances, where I want my dog to go. I don’t look at my gamblers, jackpot, etc) and stop and their dog when we are running. I look at where I dog stops! That was because the handler want my dog to go. I will look at the mouth stopped moving and there was a change in of the tunnel, the jump, the hoop etc. Run motion. So thinking in terms of distance, I with Intent!! Don’t flap your arms up and try to keep a constant pace (either running, down. Keep your arm firm and crisp. Let walking etc) when I want my dog to stay on me reiterate how important it is to watch the path they are on. When I need a change where you want to go and not look at your of direction, I will change my motion. dog. If you are looking at your dog, most Verbal Cues: What words do you likely your shoulders are opening up and use to tell your dogs where to go? Each giving your dog conflicting cues. If you are verbal cue should mean one thing and one ‘hard eyeing” “staring” at your dog, it can be thing only! In the diagrams below there are not only intimidating to the dog, it also can descriptions of my verbal cues. Scratch out appear that you are not confident where you my words and replace them with what want them to go. They will be slower and words you use! Directional commands less confident. Your body usually follows come before obstacle names. You can say your eyeballs. So if your eyeballs are looking GO TUNNEL…. Don’t say Tunnel GO. where you want your dog to go, most of the time the rest of your body follows. I am not HERE: 180s Take the next obstacle and saying to never look at your dog, I am saying turn toward me. Cue occurs prior to you have good peripheral vision and can use obstacle of the turn. Arm is tight close to that to ‘know’ where your dog is. Dogs have body but still draw path I expect my dog to even better peripheral vision so that can see collect prior to the jump or hoop. you too even if they are far away from you. GO- Continue moving forward on the path You have to trust your dog!! you are on Make sure you are standing straight and not COME or (IN) : Take the next obstacle and bending over. Also try to keep your arm turn toward me.. Cue occurs prior to low .or at least not higher than your obstacle of the turn I do not expect my dog shoulders. I think in terms of bowling… I to collect but to turn towards me but move bowl my dog to obstacles. This helps me forward. keep my arm crisp, lower and I follow SWITCH Turn away from me Tightly through. I want my arm/finger (and my FLIP Take the next obstacle and curve whole body) to be drawing the path I want my away from me. This is like ‘Switch Out’ dog to run on. Motion: What motion do you have to do or For this exercise, I am concentrating on the change to direct your dog? When I want my commands for 2-3, 3-4 dogs to continue moving forward, then I will The command for 2-3 should occur prior to keep moving forward. I want my dogs to know that when I am accelerating or maintain the dog executing 2. GO Handle from both a speed and long stride they should keep the left and right Dog on Right, 2-3 FLIP, 3-4 Here

Dog on Left HERE 2-3 Dog on Right SWITCH 2-3 Dog on Left- 2-3 Come, 3-4 Flip if I get command out before 3

Dog on Right OUT Dog on Left: 2-3 COME 3-4 Here (tight turn) You want all of your cues- verbal, body and moving. There are times when I have motion to be consistent all telling your dog fallen; there are times when I swing my the same place you want them to go!! arms; there are times when I lead out and don’t like where I lead out to so I move—so GROUNDWORK my dog needs to stay until I verbally There is soooo much you can do to release dog. You need to be very cognizant train agility and distance without agility that you do not verbally release and move equipment. I do a lot of shadow handling. I simultaneously….as this will teach your teach my dogs to follow my body language dog to release on motion ! Verbal release as I walk around and do Switches/Here ONLY !! and various crosses. I use food to do this. I also play ‘space games’ where I walk in and I have a very different startline training out of my dog’s space-like we are dancing. philosophy than many. When I am training I walk into the dog and the dog backs up. I startlines, I reward the release…not the then back up and the dog moves forward stay. I do not reward the stays; I do not say into my space. I also pivot and use my STAY. I train it and trust it. The end. I legs to move my dogs around me. Here is a believe the two different perspectives puts video of shadow handling/spacegames: the dog in a different mindset. My dogs are http://www.youtube.com/watch? eagerly waiting for my release so that I v=tTF4kzGe-IA have a powerful quick release. They are excited. When continually rewarding the So in my videos, I have food in both hands stay and saying “stay”, many dogs are and am feeding my dogs when they turn ‘thinking’ about staying and can be slow at away from me ( I am saying switch.. you the start and a little anxious because they may not hear it, but I verbally say SWITCH are worried about staying and not thinking every time I am turning my dog away from about the release. Make sense?? me. This is my foundation for switch).I also feed my dog for turning with me. I want my I also do not care if my dog sits, stands or dog to walk with me and turn with my downs-as long as they stay until released. accordingly. I also do a lot of groundwork with So how do I train it? I start out being in my toys. I play with purpose. My dogs motion. When I stop, inevitably my dog learn so much about my body language and will sit or down. I say “OK” and give them a verbal cues by the way I throw my toy. I treat for getting up! I start out by doing a work skills like go, come, out, turns etc few quick releases..as soon as the dog’s but with toys without equipment. hits the ground, I say OK and give a treat. https://www.youtube.com/watch? Then I start adding in duration of the sit so v=_vfQILFXQ0w&feature=youtu.be they have to sit longer in order to get https://www.youtube.com/watch? released and rewarded. v=a8_1dcoJHac&feature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch? Remember—NO MOTION.. only verbal v=vKiBnl4zP34&feature=youtu.be command. If your dog already has a https://www.youtube.com/watch? startline or stay (or something close to it  v=3vQKc9sv1mA&feature=youtu.be )…they may not get up on your verbal release only because they don’t understand STARTLINE & LEARNING TO DRIVE TO it is only a verbal release and they want to TARGET (TOY) get up on your motion ! IT is very important that you ONLY use a verbal command to release your dog. I do When I am leading out, I look at my dog’s not want to release my dog on motion— eyeballs before I release. I have just any motion—my arm, my body, me walked away and turned my back on my dog. So I want to reestablish the show how to start using toys to train connection by looking at their eyeballs. startlines. https://youtu.be/eITyVfHQr7A

If you want to say “SIT’ or “DOWN’ go VIDEO 4: JP. This video shows JP startline ahead.. and if you feel the need to say training using a Lotus Ball. “STAY” go ahead but only ONCE !! https://youtu.be/ahyae17QevI

VIDEO 5: Startline Routine with Rev and Startline Routine Tandem https://youtu.be/M5FxFmYX0xw 1. Dog sits, downs or stands VIDEO 6: Startline with Toy outside with 2. Lead out or at least stand up JP, Rev and Tandem 3. Re-establish eye contact with your https://youtu.be/nyct2F4rxmw dog 4. Verbally Release your dog – You do So startlines and stopped contacts are NOT move similarly trained ! Dog should stay on contact until verbally released. So we will 5. Dog starts moving go through the same routine with contacts 6. THEN you can move !!! as we do with contacts. Make sure you move to different locations- When training contacts, I use a toy as a ahead of your dog, behind your dog, to the target to get my dog to look and drive side of your dog forward. I will place a target out after my -Add motion mat, bench or board and my dog must stay -Add duration until released. I sometimes throw the toy -Add toy also and expect my dog to stay on contact until released. I make sure that I can do Here are some videos. They are long…. But these things on the ground first with no important. Some information is equipment before asking my dogs to do redundant..some is not. So if you have this on equipment. time..watch them all  I also will put a target (toy) out if I am I chopped off my head when filming so having a hard time getting my dog to move you cant see my eyeballs. Sorry. ahead of me.

VIDEO 1: Teaching Startline with Dynamic: Target, Lure and Rewards video https://youtu.be/VqisTFCGYaA explanation: Dy does not have a startline so this is a https://youtu.be/s_qNfqpxj8A good video to watch to show how I train startlines ! LEADOUTS VIDEO 2: Tandem This video is a continuation of startline work with added Do not always lead out to the same movement. location. You need to strategically decide https://youtu.be/aHTbWIQ27Dw where to lead out depending on the course. When there is a line on the course VIDEO 3: Syn. Syn is going deaf..so I have (chances, gamblers, fast, jackpot) do not to release her with motion. It is a learning lead out close to the line. Give yourself experience for both of us. In this video, I room to move! When there is a turn at the When I lead out, I try to have my feet beginning of the course, I try to lead out to pointed where I want the dog to go. the turn location with my feet pointing towards where the dog is going next Practice One jump/hoop exercises to teach Sometimes rear-crossing can give you a lead out positions. better handling position. So think outside https://www.youtube.com/watch? the box ! v=6yjp2OdDEB0

to get distance and speed, I set up race tracks. I set big loops and lines to get my dog driving away from me. Within my racetrack I have other skills to work on too. But I try to start out with doing something fast and fun via a big loop or line and then I will work turns and other skills. I use tunnels a lot when training distance to get my dogs driving to a tunnel first, then exchanging it for hoops, jumps or other equipment. Even with my Elite dogs, I IND usually do a big loop first, then do some EPENDENT CONTACTS turning exercises and if I have a dog left, In order to have good distance, you then will do a big loop again. need to have independent contacts! This means that you do not have to be right next CONNECTION WITH YOUR DOG to the contact in order for your dog to Before you start officially agility correctly perform the contact (either training, warmup your dog. Warm-ups running or stopped). You also need to be include shadow handling and connection able to send your dog off a contact from games. You want to make sure you and any location. your dog are mentally connected and ready RACETRACK AGILITY TRAINING to go! https://www.youtube.com/watch? Now you are ready to start training v=_vfQILFXQ0w&feature=youtu.be distance with agility equipment! In order REWARDS: LOCATION/RELEASE WORD Make sure you have great rewards CONSCIOUS EFFORT TO TRAIN and a reward that you can THROW or place DISTANCE down as a target. If your dog does not like The next step is to make a conscious toys, try using a lotus ball. Clean run sells effort to train distance…even just one foot them. It is a basically a ball where you put at a time! You should start small -only treats in. I like this particular ball because being a foot or so away from you dog and you can still throw it at a distance. I train continuing to further challenge yourself to distance by rewarding my dog at the time move farther away from you dog! and place they did something brilliant. So You can do it  when I am working distance, I reward at a distance. I try to throw my toy in the The key is to train it and then TRUST direction my dog was going. If you have a IT !!!!!! The more confidence you have in hard time throwing, you can target train by your dog, the more confident your dog placing your reward at the location you will be, the faster he will be and the want your dog to. farther away you can be! It is very important to have a release word to mean ‘you were brilliant, TRAINING DISTANCE exercise is over and toy is coming’. I say When training distance, you can “YES” when my dog was brilliant and I start off by back chaining and rewarding at throw my toy. My dogs know when they the location you want your dog to go. Back hear YES a toy is coming. Having a release chaining is when we will break the exercise word to the toy trains the dog to keep down backwards ..so we will start with 3 working until they hear the release word. and reward 3, then perform 2-3 and This way, you do not get a dog constantly reward 3. Then 1-3, reward 3. Get it?? looking at your for a toy or treat. Lots or rewarding !! https://youtu.be/3ix0vu240J0 Remember to either throw a toy or put a target out! I do not want you TRAIN SHORT SEQUENCES & REWARD rewarding your dog from your hand… OFTEN because you are rewarding your dog for I train in short fun sequences. I coming to you... Also remember to say want to be able to reward and reward often your release word when you throw the toy so I generally work 5-10 obstacles even or to get the target. with my elite dogs. I set things up to work DRAW YOUR PATH-ARM OUT STAY OUT a specific skill and reward the heck out of ARM IN COME IN !!! successful (and sometimes good tries) For simplicity, I am going to divide sequences. I want my dog to understand distance into 3 categories: Lateral, Sends the skill I am working so I want to reward (forward, out), and Lead-outs. There are A LOT. Error on the side of rewarding TOO many variations and combinations of much than not enough..Even with your distance handling. advanced dogs !!! Lateral Distance is being able to be- PUT OBSTACLE CLOSER laterally - farther away from the side of you TOGETHER dog. The below diagram is an example. When training distance, I put the obstacles So for this sequence, you will reward after closer together. I love hoops as I can place 3 and move laterally away from your dog. them very close together and do not have Do not start as far as I have in the diagram. to worry about jumping. I place the Remember to do distance in baby steps. obstacles close together to teach my dogs Move a foot or few feet at a time. commitment and drive towards obstacles and I can reward quickly. When you are behind your dog, it is easier for him to see you if you laterally farther away. Example: If you are in 1 position, your dog cannot see you. If you are in the 2 position, dog can possibly see you. If you SEND OUT-the ability to be able to send are in the 3 position, it s much easier for your dog OUT AWAY from you the dog to see you !

VARIOUS LEADOUTS Here is one example. There are many lead out variations.

SENDS Forward Send-the ability to send your dog ahead of you

WALK YOUR DOG’S PATH !!! Walk your dog’s path at trials ..especially distance classes. You want to see what the dog will see! BIG LOOP LESSON This is one of my favorite setups. Here is a video of the below exercise (or close to it) https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=CDaxOSmPcWE&feature=youtu.be

I start out with a big fast loop. One of the ways I get my distance is to do ‘racetracks’. I set big loops that get my dogs going fast !!! Handle this many ways: Leadout to your ‘normal’ position. Move farther away laterally Move farther ahead Don’t leadout so far Don’t leadout at all Start on left side !!!

NEXT- We need to work turning off a tunnel. What is your cue from 2-3? What is your cue from 4-5? How much distance can you get? Make sure you walk dogs path so you can see that if you do not turn before 3 and run straight, your dog will see the off course hoop !! Don’t forget to work both sides. Things I am looking for? Are your cues consistent? Are you keeping your arm out when your want your dog to keep driving? Do you bring your arm in to get turn but then get it back out again to continue to draw path? Are you driving to the end of the sequence keeping your arm out? Where are your eyeballs??? How much distance can you get? Is your dog driving to the end? GET LATERAL DISTANCE RIGHT AWAY ! When you are directly behind your dog, it SOME TEACHING DISTANCE VIDEOS: is difficult for him to see you. The farther Here I am teaching Digger (my mom’s dog) you can get laterally, the easier it is for to GO to a Target: your dog to see you. For example, in the https://www.youtube.com/watch? illustration below dog can see you if you v=CDaxOSmPcWE&feature=youtu.be are next to him (1). But can dog see if you are in the 2 position? Probably not. Can This video is line jumps (no bars) dog see you in the 3 position? Maybe..Can backchaining: dogs see you in the 4 position? YUP !! Go https://www.youtube.com/watch? do this yourself. Go stand at the end of the v=Y12VQT4xl0Y&feature=youtu.be walk and have people or even put cones in my positions and see what you can see. More Target training with Digger teaching So it is really important to get lateral GO and Switch: distance right away so that your dog can https://www.youtube.com/watch? see you better and drive out away from v=udNl4gdSpCE&feature=youtu.be you. The same principle applies to jump lines, hoop lines, tunnels etc. When you DISTANCE OFF OF CONTACTS are behind your dog, he can see you better Regardless of your contact behavior, if you are farther laterally away then close you need to be able to send your dog at a to them. distance off the contact. You need to be able to send ahead off the contact, as well as being able to turn off the contact. In the diagram below, work distance off the afame. While I have included a whole sequence, when you are training distance off the contact, practice 1-3 and reward after 3. Run it once how you would normally run it. Next time, don’t go so close to the hoop .. reward after 3. Keep moving yourself farther and farther away from hoop 3 and reward after 3. Actually, DISTANCE IN ALL CLASSES NOT ONLY at first, you may move hoop closer than it is CHANCES /OR OTHER DISTANCE TEST on the diagram. CLASSES Please try to PUSH your distance in other classes besides the distance class. If you only use distance once every 6 classes, then that class will be more difficult. If you start to use your distance in other classes, it will feel more comfortable and the distances classes will become easier!! So please try to layer something… stay behind on a contact and push ahead, use lateral leadout etc. in other classes !! This will help you tremendously in the distance classes  COMMUNICATE when exercise is over toy is coming. I have release word that means BONKER C’s exercise is over and Toy is coming. This way  CONNECT with your dog - connect and my dogs will continue to work until they hear warmup with your dog anytime you ask them ‘YES”. I also reward at the time and location to do something (tricks, weave between legs, my dog does something brilliant. If I am shadow handling, space games, etc) working distance, I reward at a distance. If I  CUES – Types of Cues- Verbal, Body Language am working tight stuff, I reward close to me. and Motion  COMPILE - a training journal. Keep track of  CUES- Timing of Cues-cue prior to obstacle your successes as well as things you need to where change of direction is occurring work on. Take pics of the courses ( if you can), write down sequences etc. Also write  CODE your cues so that each command means down your verbal cues so you know exactly ONLY one thing what each one means !!!  CONSISTENT – be consistent with your cues,  CONTROL - Make sure you have off leash training and releases control of your dog before you enter the  CONSISTENT – Arm out means stay out, arm agility ring in come in. Keep your arm out unless you  CHEERIOS - when I get a new pup or new dog want your dog to come in… don’t DROP it I always carry cheerios in my pocket so that I even when your dog is in the tunnel !! can reward any interactions with me. Make  CRITERIA - Maintain Criteria – startlines, sure you reward all of your dogs and not just contacts the new one  CRISP – be crisp with your body language, no  COGNIZANT – be aware of what your dog is flapping doing at all times when you are in the agility  CALM/CRAZY If you have a high drive dog, ring working. Once the exercise is over and you need to be calm. If you have a you reward, don’t turn away from your dog. motivationally challenged dog, you may have Stay connected and ready for the next to be more crazy, cheerleading, woohoooing. exercise. This is especially important for  CONFIDENT - walk to the line with sniffy dogs confidence, train it, trust it and run  CONSCIOUS- be aware of your dogs confidently movement so that you will notice any  CRUSH the course – don’t think about changes. You do not have to know muscles sequences that are ‘hard’ but have the and bones of the dog, but be aware of what attitude you are going to crush the they look like. If you see any changes….go to sequence/course the Chiropractor  CLEAR - be clear with your cues, when I do  CHIROPRACTOR- Take your dog to the this, I want this. If I ask you what is your chiropractor for maintenance and if you see contact performance I want a clear definition something “off’  CHERISH every run. You never know when it  CONCISE - Train in quick concise FUN may be your last sessions. Skill Train…work on skills and only  CELEBRATE Moments of Brilliance ! Train in run full courses occasionally quick fun sessions and reward OFTEN  CORRECTING - Do not correct or repeat  CHALLENGE yourself. Move out of your obstacles when you miss or mess up. Start comfort zone. Lead out farther, more the exercise over. If you bring your dog back laterally, don’t lead out at all, push the and correct the missed obstacle, your dog will distance, etc slow down and not be confident.  CREATIVE—Be Creative..think outside the  CRAYON - pretend your finger is a crayon box (laser pointer) and DRAW YOUR DOGS  CHEERFUL – Don’t forget the power of Praise. PATH !!! Don’t run with your arms at your You can praise your dog even in the agility side. ring  CONDITION your dog. Regardless of what canine sport you participate in, every dog will 11 benefit from a conditioning program. *Foundation for Contacts Class-learn the Exercises to increase balance, body foundations for 2020 with emphasis on back awareness, core strengthening as well as feet! mental stimulation are beneficial. *Barrelers- learn how to perform an efficient POSITIVE & FUN DOG TRAINING barrel in various sequences with Lisa Bonker *GO GO GO-learn how to your dog to move NADAC Clinician forward and ahead of you FITPAWS Master Trainer *GO GO part 2 – continue to push for more forward distance *Fitbones 1: learn how to properly use fitbones Email: [email protected] doing various conditioning exercises Website: www.inthezoneagility.com *Fitbones 2: progress to other conditioning Facebook: Lisa Schmit-Bonker exercises https://www.facebook.com/schmitbonker? *Conditioning for Barrels: learn various fref=nf exercises to help condition for barrels Bonker Seminar Group on Facebook: *More classes to come https://www.facebook.com/groups/bonkersemi http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/ONDEM nar/ AND.html (if you are on facebook, send me a PM and I will add you to this group. It is good way for me to BONKER ONLINE DOG TRAINING GROUP keep in contact with you  I will post videos, http://www.inthezoneagility.com/OnlineTrai have discussions, you can ask questions etc> ning.html password rubbercontacts Training Video Website: Bonker Online Dog Training Group consists on a http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/training. yahoo group, agility video website and html conditioning video website. In the bonker Password: rubbercontacts seminar yahoo group, we have training Conditioning Public Page: discussions, courses/sequences are posted as http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/conditio well as my seminar notes. I also post other dog ning.html training related information. The websites Conditioning Private Video Page: literally has hundreds of training videos. For the http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/fitpass.h past few years, I have been videotaping most of tml my training sessions. You can see how I train, Password is fitbone reward and troubleshoot as I train my dogs Bonker Seminar Group for those that have throughout their career. I have over 200 training attended a Lisa Bonker Seminar. videos to watch from topics ranging from puppy, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bonkerseminar foundation training, serpentines, conditioning, / tricks, motivation, start lines, contacts, To subscribe: Subscribe: bonkerseminar- directionals, barrels, conditioning and more. [email protected] Videos from my seminar lectures are also available so you can listen to my training ONLINE AGILITY & CONDITIONING TRAINING philosophy. For $150 you will have lifetime

ON DEMAND ONLINE CLASSES – access to both the agility and conditioning The following classes are available ON websites. DEMAND !!You can audit and receive all the CONDITIONING VIDEO SITE notes and video links! If you would like to work http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/cond the class, you can video tape the lessons and I itioning.html password: fitbone will provide feedback !! Canine Conditioning is very important for all CLASSES: dogs. From puppy to senior, from couch potato *Jumping Class – my favorite jumping exercises to the canine athlete, there are fun exercises to help improve your dogs overall well-being. 12 These exercises improve body awareness, Do you need help developing a fitness plan for balance, flexibility, mobility, and muscular you dog? Would you like feedback on your strength. If you have a canine athlete that conditioning sessions to make sure you are competes in agility, conformation, obedience, performing the exercises correctly? Do you need flyball, herding, etc, a fitness plan can improve help developing progression exercises? I will performance and help prevent injury. Besides make a specific plan for your dog and review the incredible physical benefits, doing these your videos for $50 a lesson, or a package of 5 exercises will provide mental stimulation, lessons for $200. If you sign up for the 5 lesson strengthen the bond with your dog, increase package, you will have access to the bonker dog’s confidence and create more focus. Plus it is online dog training group website that has TONS really fun to do!! of videos of many conditioning exercises. The conditioning page has instructional videos, http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/conditio videos showing different exercises to perform on ning.html equipment as well as progression exercises with A lesson will include at least 3 different multiple pieces of equipment. I have specific exercises. I will provide a video of the exercises pages for each piece of equipment such as so you can see how to perform the exercises fitbones, peanuts, donuts, slanted board, wobble correctly. You will send me videos of the board, cavalettis, pods and more! For $100, you exercises. I will critique your videos in great will have access to all the conditioning videos. detail to make sure you are doing the exercises For more information contact Lisa at correctly. You will have the opportunity to [email protected] resubmit videos.

ONLINE PRIVATE LESSONS /VIDEO COACHING Lisa Bonker, PhD has been active in agility for http://www.inthezoneagility.com/VideoCoac over 20 years. She is a NADAC certified Clinician, h.html FITPAWS Master Trainer and Certified Canine Do you need help formulating a training plan? Fitness Trainer. She gives seminars across the Do you have a hard time creating sequences to continent. Lisa hosts over 15 NADAC Trials yearly work on? Do you want feedback on your as In The Zone Agility and In The Zone Agility of handling? Would you like a personalized Illinois. Lisa has won the NADAC Championships evaluation of your training sessions or trial runs? six years in a row with three different dogs. In Are you having a particular training issue that 2015, Tandem won the Highest number of Bonus you need help with? I will send you a detailed Points Trophy in Starter Stakes. Her dogs have lesson plan developed specifically for you, your earned nine NADAC Platinum Speed Star Awards dog and your training space. You will run and In 2013,Synergy was Reserve Champion in the 16” videotape your training sessions. Send me a class and Tandem was Reserve Champion in video of your sessions. I will provide detailed Starters Stakes (class at champs that required high feedback and you can resubmit your videos if level distance skills). Her dogs are consistently in needed. I will provide feedback including areas the NADAC Top 10 with Jet being the Highest you did well and areas that can be improved Scoring Skilled Dog in 2007 and Moxie the Highest upon. Fee is $30 a lesson, or a package of 5 Scoring Skilled Dog in 2008. Tandem, Synergy, lessons for $125. If you sign up for the 5 package Moxie and Expedite have also earned nine NADAC plan, you will have access to my private agility Platinum Speed Star Awards. Lisa and her dogs website that contains many videos. have earned over 60 NATCHs. Eight of her dogs TRIAL RUN REVIEW have qualifying bonus runs. To view a complete list I will review your trial runs and provide a of accomplishments, videos of runs and photos please visit http://inthezoneagility.com. To view detailed evaluation of your runs. $20 a run or 6 some bonus’ runs runs for $100. http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/BONUS- CONDITIONING PLAN RUNS.html

13 Over the past few years, Lisa has become very interested in canine conditioning. She has taken numerous seminars and online classes. She is a FITPAWS Master Trainer, a Certified Canine Fitness Trainer Program through the University of TN and has taken Debbie Gross’ Canine Fitness Instuctor Courses.