K Mod Gen 11 Complete Suspension

K MOD GEN 11 COMPLETE SUSPENSION PACKING LIST

1. Ice Rails and hardware. 2. Anti-Stab Kit 3. Ice Scratchers 4. Rear Axle assembly 5. Rail cross shafts with bolts. 6. Coupling blocks and shaft with bolts. 7. Rear axle wheels. 8. Rear arm Idler wheels. 9. Front arm Idler wheels. 10.2-Arms with shock mount bolts. 11.Rear arm lower shaft. 12.Front arm lower shaft with spacers, washers, and bolts. 13.2-Upper arm shafts. 14.Rear Pivot with spacers, washers, and bolts. 15.2-Shock shafts with washers, and lock collars. 16.Front and rear lock collars for Idler wheels. 17.Limiter straps with washers and bolts. 18.Fox Float, Evol shocks with pump, or Raptor coil overs 19.Install instructions. 20.Nytro only (drop brackets with rivets, bolts, and washers) 21.Pro Polaris ( drop bracket template). 22.Ski Doo XP (drop bracket ) ASSEMBLY AND INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS

1. Unpack rails , install hyfax, axle adjusters, and jounce bumpers.(tall side forward on the jounce bumpers) 2. Install anti stab kit and front cross shaft, leave the bolts loose on the cross shaft so other shafts can be installed, use blue Loctite on all bolts. 3. Install front arm, use one bushing and one washer on each side of lower shaft, and leave bolts loose. 4. Install the shock cross shaft in front shock,(center shock on shaft and Loctite set screws on lock collars) with small thin washer on each side of shock and then one lock collar on each side, install in rails at the front spot face on rail with air inlet on shock down. Bolt shock to front arm and tighten all front bolts on arm, anti-stab, and front cross shafts, keep rails flat while tightening bolts. 5. Install front arm upper shaft, put on spacer washers and then small idler wheel on each side with snap ring out, put on lock collars but center shaft with equal length of shaft that protrudes out of the lock collars, tighten set screw on lock collars, and use Loctite on set screws. 6. Install rear pivot with small spacer and one washer on each side of the pivot, washer towards rail. Leave bolts loose, install rear arm on the pivot. 7. Assemble rear shock on cross shaft with a washer and lock collar on each side of shock, (center shock on shaft and Loctite the set screws on the lock collars) install in stot face on rear of rail, bolt shock to rear arm with evol chamber toward the rear, leave all bolts on the rear arm and cross shafts finger tight till coupler block shaft and rear axle are in. 8. Install rear arm upper shaft, put idler wheels on shaft and lock collars, center shaft and tighten set screw on lock collars. 9. Install coupler blocks and shaft in rails. 10.Assemble rear axle with wheels and install on rails, and then tighten all bolts in cross shafts, pivot arm, and coupler block shafts. 11.Install ice scratchers in holes just in front of front arm mounting holes. 12.Install limiter straps and adjust so there is 12’’to 12.5’’ from the ground to the front arm upper shaft hole. 13.Grease all zirks, roll upper arm shafts while greasing, grease lower pivot every 3-4 rides. 14.Install skid in sled and use blue Loctite on bolts, use stock mounting holes in the front and upper holes in rear, (on cats drill out the front lower rivet in the front arm mounting plate on tunnel to make easier install of the skid, then re-rivet with rivet supplied. 15.Raise the rear of the sled in the air so there is no pressure on the shocks, start with the front shock and set at 85psi, then on the rear shock let all the air out of the main chamber,. Set the evol at 300 psi and then set the main chamber at 140. Adjust for ride from there but only in the main chamber, if it’s too harsh of ride below 130 then let 10psi out of the evol chamber and take the main back to 140 and adjust for ride again. 16.The rebound clicker is set a 13 out of 26 so it’s in the middle; turning in slows down the rebound and turning out speeds up the rebound. It will also affect the compression dampening about the same.( controls oil up and down, low speed) 17.There are 3 sides to the coupling blocks, the mildest side is the same on the opposite side of the block then one end is the medium aggressive and then the other end is the most aggressive. Start on the mildest position and adjust the shock for ride, and then if you want a little less ski lift go to the middle position. 18.The most aggressive position is for chute climbing only and should not be rode there except for climbing chutes, when in the most aggressive position add more air to the rear shock about 20lbs. In the most aggressive position the front arm will couple at a faster rate and will be bottomed out before the rear arm, if you jump or fall into a deep hole rear shock shaft can bend(only in the most aggressive position) 19.On coil overs rear shocks preload total free spring length (free spring length is total spring length with no load and the shocks fully extended) to 10’’ (for a 200 lb. rider) and adjust if needed up or down, (two turns at a time can make a noticeable difference) do not preload over 9.5’’ free length or coil bind on bottom out can occur. 20. set clicker adjustment to 5 clicks (1/2 turn) for tree riding you can go down to 2 or 3 or up to 12-15 for real aggressive bumps. If you carry extra weight just preload spring for ride height and clicker up a few clicks. 21.On front coil over preload free length of 7.750’’, if you like a livelier feel you can go down to 7’’ (but again two turns at a time).