Textiles Glossary broken down by bacteria so that it can be A returned to the environment. These materials Abrasion to rub or wear off to see how strong a are important as they help to reduce pollution fabric is. and the amount of waste associated with textile Absorbency the ability to soak up moisture. production. Acetate one of the family of man - made Biological finishing process that involves the cellulosic fibres, made from wood pulp or cotton. use of enzymes. Acetate fabrics have a luxurious and lustrous Bio-polishing Treatment applied to cellulosic appearance, they are fast drying, and can be fibres or fabrics to increase softness and either crisp or soft to touch, depending on the smoothness end use. These garment lining fabrics, lingerie Biostoning Treatment applied to fabric to give and fashion garments. stonewashed effect Acrylic the generic term for a man - made, Blended yarns a yarn made from more that synthetic fibre produced from acrylonitrille, one type of staple fibre. which can be cut into short, staple fibres. Blends to mix together two different fibres, a When crimped, acrylic has wool - like texture blended fibre are one that has been mixed to a with low moisture absorbency that dries quickly. specified recipe at the spinning stage, before It produces fabrics that are lightweight, soft, being made into spun yarn. Two or more warm and resilient, and it can be used for staple fibres can be blended, such as polyester knitwear, upholstery and carpets. and cotton, to alter the properties of a yarn. In Active smart material a material that senses addition blending is used to ensure consistency and reacts to the environment. in a yarn - for example, in using cotton from Aesthetics the ideal look of a product. different sources, either for commercial or Anthropometric data the science of body sizes availability reasons. that helps designers make products at the Block printing – the process of using blocks correct size for people to use, e.g. the height of which are carved with patterns then dipped into chairs. a print paste and applied to fabric in a regular Antibacterial finish pattern Aramid extremely strong, synthetic fibres Boll the seed head of the cotton plant, which related to the polyamide family. Used mainly contains the cotton fibres. for industrial applications, Aramid fibres have Bonded –the term given to fabrics that have high strength and retain their properties at high been joined using heat, or glue temperatures. Breathable moisture can escape through a B fabric allowing the skin to breath, a breathable Bar charts a type of graph presenting fabric allows internal moisture (sweat) to escape information in the form or bars and columns. through the fabric, which lets the skin 'breathe' Bast fibre the name given to a group of and makes you feel more comfortable. natural fibres such as flax (linen), hemp, jute Brushing – a mechanical finishing process and ramie where fibre are brushed using special Batch dyeing –dyeing large batches of machines to raise the surface of the products at one go one step at a time fabric. Fabrics created using this process Batch production a production where small are very warm numbers of identical items are made. BSI - British Standards Institution Batik a resist form of dyeing using wax. professional organisation, which sets the Bespoke individual made - to - measure standards for industry and decides the tests tailoring for men's suits. needed to be applied on different products. Bespoke tailoring a traditional and labour - Bulked yarns A treatment (physical or intensive method of making clothes especially chemical) added to yarn to make it thicker and suits (custom made clothing). bulkier Biodegradable the ability of a material to be C

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 1 CAD / CAM systems - computer - aided design Coating the surfaces of the fabric covered with and computer - aided manufacture. a liquid polymeric compound, which can be CAD - Computer aided design designs natural or synthetic. This is often used to make created using the computer. fabrics waterproof, e.g. by coating cotton with Calendaring – a finishing process where cloth synthetic PVC, rubber or wax. is passed through a series of rollers under great Collage a collection of magazine pictures and pressure (the rollers can be heated). This gives so on, stuck onto a background. smoothness and added lustre to fabrics Colour- this is a visual sensation that is Calico – a plain weave unbleached cotton fabric created when light is transmitted through or CAM –Computer aided Manufacture a reflected from a object computer used in the manufacturing process. Colour palette a selection of colours chosen to Canvas –cotton based plain weave fabric. go together. Available in different weights Colour - fast a dyed product that does not 'run' Carbon a thin, strong crystalline filament of when washed. carbon used as a strengthening material in Colourways the variations of colour that a resins, ceramics and fabrics. This type of fibre product could be produced in. has a very high tensile strength and offers Comfortable – how does a product feel when it protection from ultraviolet radiation. is been worn or being used Carded – the process of cleaning and Commissioned designs- when a client asks straightening fibres during yarn manufacture for a special design according to their Care labels a set of instructions that explains specification the aftercare of a fabric or product. Complimentary colours – colours that are Cell production – a Process used in opposite to each other on the colour wheel manufacturing a specialised product Components – parts such as buttons and Cellulose the substance that forms the polymer interfacing that are an integral part of a textile in cotton and linen, the carbohydrate that is the product chief component of the cell walls or plants. (Computerised knitting machine) Called a Cellulose is found in wood and in cotton, linen, CNC machine. Designs can be created using jute, hemp and all of the bast, leaf and steam the machine memory or the designed on the fibres. It is a basic raw material in the computer and transferred to the machine for manufacture or rayon, acetate and triacetate knitting fibres. (Computerised sewing machine)) Called a Chain stitch - a machine stitch that produces a CNC machine. Designs can be created using chain - like appearance on one side of the the machine memory or the designed on the fabric. computer and transferred to the machine for Characteristics –the key or unique things sewing about a product Concept designs – Initial ideas derived from CIM - (Computer Integrated Manufacture) the inspirational sources automatic transfer of information between a Conservation – the process of preserving or company's head office and its factory. conserving earths resources Client profile describing the end user. Consumer a person who buys, rents or hires Client – a person that commissions a project products or services, the end user of a product or design or service. Closed loop a system that works automatically Consumer rights -the use of the law to protect and does not contain feedback. consumers when they buy products CMT - Cut, make and trim the process of Contemporary fashion – the term applied to cutting out, making up and completion of a modern fashion and fashion designer textile product. Continual flow process (production) – a type CNC (Computer numerical control) see of production system where, as a product cad/cam moves along the production line, each step of

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 2 manufacturing id worked on by a individual the weight of 9000m of fibre or yarn. The machinist higher the denier, the thicker the fibre / yarn. Continuous filament the term given to a Denim - a fabric that has a blue warp and weft continuous long length of fibre and is created using a twill weave Control/process operations, which can change Design brief a short statement explaining what the input to form the output. is going to be designed and made. Corduroy a cut weft pile fabrics which is Design criteria - a list of key/important points characterised with cords or ribs running needed for a design vertically down the warp Design ideas initial sketches or ideas that are Costing – the process of working out the cost of developed form research making a product Design influences – ideas that influence Cotton – a natural cellulosic plant fibre design Count - the term applied to the thickness of Design proposals/ Design solution – initial a yarn ideas that are further developed and explored Couture garments –special garments created Designs specification the specific design using the best craftsmen’s usually one off and details, which a product has to match. also called Haute Couture Digital camera – a camera that can capture Crease resist finish – a finish applied to the images in a digital format fibres or yarn to prevent creasing of a product Digital printing – a process where designs Crease resistance the ability of a fibre to resist are manipulated on computer and then creasing or able to recover after being created printed on a special printer Crisp - the term applied to how a fabric feels to Digitizing software changes images and turns handle them into stitch information to be used in a CNC Criteria a list of key words. sewing machine. Critical dimensions – the list of the exact Dimensional fabric paint - a fabric paint that measurements needed for a product when dry leaves a raised patterned surface on Critical points the points which it is critical for the fabric quality of the product to be checked or the point Dimensions the size of a product. at which it is essential that all the components Disposal of fullness using processes such as needed for a product are available when darts and gathers or pleats to take away excess needed fabric Cultivated silk - a natural silk fibre that is Disassembly taking products apart. grown in controlled conditions Distribution methods the method of Cultural issues – the issues affecting design in sending goods from a factory to a terms of background and other social issues warehouse to shops Customising changing of a product in some Double jersey a type of knitted fabric used for way to suit a specific need. things such as sportswear D Drafting the process of constructing a pattern. Darts – a method of disposing of fullness in a Drape the way that a fabric hangs or can be garment shaped over a three dimensional form. Databases – a series for records for recalling or Drawing stretching manufactured fibres to storing information make them stronger. DDP (direct digital printing) a CAD design is Dry cleanable – a product that is cleaned using printed directly onto fabric. solvents or chemicals Decorative techniques – a process of applying Durability how hard wearing something is. designs to fabrics using a range of techniques Dyeing the process of applying colour to a Defects faults that can be found in fabrics or textile product, that is soaked in a coloured textile products during or at the end of solution. manufacture E Denier thickness of knit, the measurement of Easy care – minimum care needed to maintain

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 3 the product one section of the system to the other. Eco - labelling special labelling to state that a Feedback loops - the process of given product has been produced using Eco feedback in a system guidelines Fibres fine hair - like structures, which can be Efficient lay planning – the process or natural, synthetic or regenerated and can be ensuring that a lay plan makes best use of long (filament) or short (staple). fabric without waste Filament a fibre, which is very long in length, Elastane a man made polymer with high this is found naturally in silk. Manufactured elasticity e.g. Lycra fibres are formed into filaments that are Elasticity to retain its shape after being converted into a filament yarn. stretched. Flame retardance the finish that is applied to Embellish/Embellishment to improve the look slow down the burning process. of a product using colour and texture and Flammability ability of a fibre to catch fire. pattern Flax linen fibres are obtained from this plant. Embossing the process of using rollers to add Flow chart diagrams that use special symbols, raised pattern to fabric which show a sequence of a process. Embroidery - a pattern being sewn into fabric Flow line production a form of industrial using either hand or machine stitches production, where a large number of the same Engraved roller printing - the process of items are produced at the same time, therefore printing using a series of rollers onto which cost effective. the design has been engraved Fray the process when woven fabric, starts to Environmentally friendly will cause minimum come undone damage to the environment. Functional properties the characteristics of a EPOS - (electronic point of sale) is an fabric, and how this will affect the way it is used. expression used for when a till is linked to a G computer network, i.e. barcode scanners. Gannt chart a diagram used to show activities Ergonomics the process of using and the time required to do them. measurements and data when designing Generic group or family products Geotextiles textile products that are used in the Essential criteria – the key things needed to ground. make a product Gin the process of breaking up the cotton fibres Evaluate/ Evaluation to consider the success after harvesting. of the product. Gore-Tex – A membrane system type of fabric F that allows vapour to escape but does not let Fabric Combinations – the process of mixing or vapour in blending fabrics to combine their properties Grading to size a pattern. Fabric construction – the process used to Grain – the direction to lay fabric in when make a fabric e.g. woven or knitted cutting out Fabric finishes - a physical or chemical finish Grey ‘greige’ goods textile products before the applied to fabrics to change or enhance there colour is added. appearance H Fabric layout - how the pattern pieces of a Handle the feel of a fabric. design are laid on fabrics Fabrics – term applied to cloth Haute - couture a French term for the highest Fabric’s specification a list of all the things the quality in dressmaking. fabric used for the product must do or be. Hazard a thing or action that could cause harm. Fasteners/ Fastenings These are components that are used to join Heat setting with synthetic textiles, it is possible garments together e.g. buttons, zips to fix a crease or shape into the fabric, by using Feedback information, which is passed from a higher temperature than that used in the raw

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 4 material's manufacture. elasticity Input the information that goes into a system to Lyocell- a man made regenerated fibre that is start it. environmentally friendly Instruction sheets a printed sheet that is M supplied with commercial patterns, to help the Make through home sewer to construct a textile product. Manufacturing specification the specific Interactive textiles – textiles that react to the manufacturing details and instructions needed user and the environment to make a product. Interfacing an inner layer of material used to Market researches a method of gathering strengthen or shape a product. information on a particular product by asking a Interlinings a fabric, which is placed between target group their opinions. the garment fabric and the lining, as a Market surveys a method of gathering strengthening or padding material. information on a product by looking at similar Internet a global computer network connecting items and looking at how they were produced. governments, companies, universities etc. Mass production a system where large J numbers of items are made on a continuous Jacquard – a decorative fabric woven on a basis. Jacquard loom. Because it is so complex it is Materials handling time (MHT) the time spent normally woven using a computer system moving materials around a factory while they Jig a template that is attached to a sewing are not being worked on. machine, to make repeated task quicker. Mercerising or Mercerisation the process of Job sequencing – the process of making a treating yarns and in a caustic solution to make product using a manufacturing production them swell, this increases strength, dye take up system and lustre, used on cottons and linen fabrics Joining techniques – the process of joining Microencapsulation when fibres impregnated one fabric to another are with substances. Just-in-time a form of stock control, when Microfibres very thin hair - like synthetic fibres goods are delivered just in time to use on the a type of modern fibre. production line. Mixture fibres are spun into yarn and mixed Jute – a cellulosic fibre derived from a plant together during the weaving process. K N Kevlar – a high strength Aramid fibre found in Nap the surface of the fabric, brushed so that clothing the ends of the fibres form a soft fluffy surface Kitemark the symbol displayed on the labels of on the fabric. products, which meet the safety standards, set Natural fibres that occur naturally and are by the British Standards Institute (BSI). obtained from plants and animals. L Needle felt non - woven fabric made by passing Laminated or laminating joining two or more barbed needles through a web of fibres. fabrics together using adhesive. Noils short broken lengths of silk fibre that are Linen – a natural vegetable plant fibre obtained used to produce spun silk yarns. from Flax Nomex -a Aramid fibre it has high strength and Lining a layer of fabric to go inside a product. is also resistant to high temperatures and is Lockstitch a machine stitch formed by the used for fire fighting clothing interlocking of an upper and lower thread. Non - woven a fabric made up of layers of Logos brands name or symbol used to identify fibres, which are strengthened by being bonded a product or designer. together using heat or adhesive, or also by Loom a machine used to produce cloth by mechanical or chemical means. weaving. Nylon- a man made synthetic fibre, with high Lustre the sheen or shine of a fibre or fabric. strength also called polyamide Lycra – a man made Elastane fibre with high

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 5 O absorbency, strength, etc. Off - the - peg items that can be purchased Proteins the substance that forms the polymer from the shop floor to fit the average sizes. in wool and silk fibres. One - off production the production of a PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) a man - made fibre unique product for a specific brief. that may resemble leather. Operation the process needed to produce the Q product. Quality assurance a guarantee given to the Output what is produced by the system. customer from the company to assure quality of Overlocker – a special type of sewing machine the product. that can be used for finishing edges of garments Quality control tests and inspections are to prevent fraying carried out to ensure that the products meet the P specification criteria. Passive smart materials that only sense Questionnaires a method of gathering changes in the environment. information by asking target groups specific Patchwork small pieces of fabric joined questions. together in a decorative way to create a larger Quilting layers of fabric that are stitched piece of fabric. together to create a decorative effect. Performance characteristics a way in which a R fabric or material functions to meet certain Recovery refers to a fibre or fabric, which requirements. means to return to its natural shape or form. Performance factor how a product can react Recycling to re - use textile products and and be useful in different situations and for fabrics. different needs. Refining to improve the product through testing Physical finishing process carried out using and evaluation. machinery. Regenerated fibre fibres manufactured from Picks – another name for weft threads which natural substances and chemicals. run horizontally across fabric Repeat patterns the way a design is printed on Pie charts which display information in the form to a fabric within given parameters. of a circle, divided into sections. Research finding out information using a series Pigment the colour in the dye solution. of activities. Pile extra yarns woven into fabric and left as Resist dyeing a substance applied to the loops or cut to form a raised surface. surface of fabrics to prevent dye being absorbed Pilling a change in the surface texture and e.g. wax as Batik Printing appearance of a fibre. Retail the selling of goods from a business to Plyed yarn two or more single yarns twisted an individual customer. together. Risk assessment identification and Polyester – a man made fibre made from minimisation of the potential hazards in the synthetic polymer workplace. Pre - manufactured an item that has been Roller printing- finished earlier to use on a textile product. Roughs first - stage drawings for designs, Pressing – applying pressure to fabric with or usually quickly draw with pencil, and without without heat. Used to remove creases and extraneous detail. smooth fabrics Roving similar to sliver, but finer. Processing control checks the steps in the S making process. S - Twist the direction of twist put into a yarn Production systems the organisation of the during spinning. work flow in a factory. Screen printing Progressive bundle system – a manufacturing Sealed sample a sample product sealed in a system bag so that it cannot be changed / altered in any Properties the characteristics of a fibre e.g. way. This is used as the master

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 6 pattern/specification to which all samples are Sub - systems compared Sublimation printing/ Transfer printing - a Seam the join made to hold two or more fabric printing process where the design is applied to pieces together. paper and then transferred to fabric using Seam allowance the additional allowance heated rollers added to a pattern to let the fabric pieces to be Sustainable technology – the process of sewn together. designing with the earths resources in mind Secondary colour a combination of the primary Swing labels/ Swing ticket a hanging label colours to make up another colour, e.g. red and that should be removed before use, giving yellow = orange. details about the product. Sectional system when operators are arranged Sympatex – A polyester fabric with hydrophilic in teams or sections. properties, this fabric is windproof waterproof Selvedge neat edge formed at the sides of the and breathable fabric, where the weft yarn warps round the Synchronised systems/ Synchro systems an wrap yarns. industrial production method, which produces Sewing machines a manual or automated large batches of textile products, through a machine used for sewing. synchronised series of assembly stations. Shade produced when black is added to any Synchronized bundle system – a production colour. manufacturing system, which combines Shed the gap between the warp threads, where elements from the straight line and the team the weft yarn is passed through. working systems. Shisha an Indian technique where mirrors are Synthetic fibres manufactured from chemicals. embroidered onto fabric, to make patterns. Systems a set of activities or objects, which Shrink resist – a finish added to fabric to together perform a structured task. prevent shrinkage System diagrams a diagram, which describes Small - cell production – production system the input process and the output of a system. process used in making garments Systems feedback a process of refining data Smart fabrics/ Smart materials can sense, that answers a series of queries read and alter themselves to changes in the T environment. Specification – an outline which details all the Tacking – the use of a large tacking requirements of a product Tactel – a high tech polyamide fibre Spider diagrams a diagram that shows Tailor tacking a form of temporary marking, information in the form of a spider's web, useful using a type of stitch. when reviewing two or more items. Tailors chalk used to mark fabric, usually in a Spinning the process of twisting fibres into triangle shape or as a pencil. yarns. Target group /Target markets a range of Standard sizes a series of sizes for garments people that a product is aimed at. based on average body measurements. Technical specification the final version used Staple fibres short fibres. in industry as the standard, workers use the Stencilling – a process of applying colour to technical specification as the guideline to make fabrics, using a cut-out card template the product. Stomatex - A specialist fabric made from a Teflon this chemical that can be fastened to micro-thermal fabric with a neoprene base fibres or applied as a finish to fabrics' Stone washing- the process of applying a finish waterproof, windproof, and also able to resist to fabric using a mechanical action e.g. pumice stains and water. A chemist at Dupont Storyboard- a visual resource detailing discovered this finish. research or design ideas Tenacity this denotes how much strength is in a Straight-line system where the products are fabric assembled in a straight line. Tencel – a staple or filament fibre which is

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 7 made using a recycling process. This fibre is Twist – yarns are turned using machines which made using ‘environmentally friendly’ help hold the yarns together manufacturing processes U Tertiary colours - are created by mixing a Unit production system where work flows primary colour and a tertiary colour through the factory on an overhead track. together UPS workflow system, hangers on an overhead Test a process to ensure that standards are rail move the product to the next operator. met. UV exposure – fabrics that have been specially Textiles designers a person who designs treated to prevent being burnt by the sun fabric. V Textiles product Velcro - a fastening that comprises of hooks Texture adding a crimp to manufactured fibres. and loops that close together Theme boards a display of ideas related to a Viscose –regenerated fibre that is cellulosic certain theme. based Thermo chromic dyes are dyes that can W change colour when exposed to excessive heat Warp knitted - fabric constructed using a and ultra - violet light. series of loops formed along the fabric Thermoplastic fibres that will soften with heat Water repellent – a finish is added to fabric to that can be set when they are cool. prevent water penetration or absorption Throughput time the time the product spends Waterproof/ waterproof fabric – a finish added in production. to fabric which makes it totally waterproof Thumbnail sketches a quick sketch of the Weave - a method of constructing fabric where designer's ideas. the warp and weft yarns interlace to create a Tie – dye the process of tying fabric and then fabric dipping into a dye bath. The fabric is then Weft the yarns that go across a woven fabric unwrapped to reveal a pattern wicking the ability of the fibre to transfer Time plans – setting up the guideline for moisture along it's surface. making a product over a period of time Weft knitting the process of constructing Tjanting a tool used in batik to place wax onto knitted fabrics using a series of interlacing loops the fabric. that run the length of the fabric Toile a fabric version of a pattern, which is Wholesale- the selling of goods from business altered to get the desired look and fit. to business, normally in bulk quantity, with Tolerance levels the amount (maximum and terms and conditions, which many include minimum levels) of small defects in the product. discounts and credit. Total quality management a quality system Wild tussah silk – a natural long silky fibre where every worker is responsible for the from the silk worm production of a quality product. Wool - a animal fibre from the fleece of sheep Trade name given to a manufactured fibre Work tickets adhesive tickets, that are attached produced by a specific manufacture. to each bundle, when operators finish a bundle, Trademark the company's logo or name, which they remove the ticket and stick on there own identifies it from other companies, followed by worksheet, this is used at the end of the day this symbol™. calculate how much work they have completed. Trading standards an association established Working characteristics the way the fabric to protect the customer. behaves when it is being manufactured. Transfer printing Working drawings a detailed drawing showing Trend board a display of ideas that predict all the information needed to make the design designs for the future. idea. Twill weave – a weave pattern, using Woven fabrics constructed by weaving weft interlacing yarns, which have a diagonal pattern, yarns in and out of warp yarns placed on a egg. Denim loom.

Rose Sinclair-Sinclair Consultancy 2005 8 Y Yarns a length of fibres and / or filaments with or without a twist. Z Z- Twist the direction of twist added to a yarn during spinning.

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